Taping and coating a factory seam/joint - Drywall Instruction

hey it's Mitch with drywall instruction calm let's do a quick segment on how to tape encode a factory seam or joint the fact the sheetrock comes with with one edge that is beveled that's called a factory edge and when you put the two together you have a factory seam or joint and by looking at this picture a little close-up picture that I'm showing you right now you can tell that it has a little bevel and so it creates a little void to fill up with tape and mud before I get too far don't worry about the lack of nails and screws on my little display here this is just for demonstration only so that I can show you how to to tape this seam the drywall typical drywall textbook drywall instruction will tell you that you need to put your tape on and then you need to put a coat of mud and maybe three coats I'm not even in that case you would use maybe a six inch knife to put your tape on maybe coat it with that and then maybe use a 8 inch nice to put the next layer on the next coat on and then ultimately end up with maybe a 12 or 14 inch knife where you actually did your final your final coat I'm going to go a little bit against ordinary opinion or contrary to the ordinary thought process here and explain to you that you can tape put your tape on and wipe it and coat it in the same in the same step and let that dry and sand it and be about 99% there and so again most people won't tell you to do this I've been doing it for a long time and I haven't had any problem haven't had it seen any downside to to doing everything in one step I also will tell you that when you get good at coding you can do it in one coat and I'll show you how right now and again be 99% there once you're dry and and sand it so let's go ahead in and show you how to I just wanted to bed some tape just because I wanted you to be able to see this factory seam before we got the tape on it I've got my all-purpose mud here all-purpose taping mud and I show you how to mix taping mud in another segment and so I'm going to go ahead and put that on my seam and go ahead and make sure that my seam is is all covered well with all-purpose mud and that there aren't any bubbles in it again I demonstrate this on my hand taping segments as well and then once I have my mud on that and ready to go I will go ahead and get my paper tape I prefer paper tape and you can see that on a segment called paper versus mesh tape I'll go ahead and put my tape on and and I'll wipe it I'll start from the center and go go back one way and then the other way and I'll wipe that mud really tight so that I make sure that my tape is is on nice and tight and I don't have a bunch of mud left over again when you're wiping tape you want to make sure that your edges are down tight after you've wiped it and then you also want to make sure like I'm doing here that you don't leave any mud out here on the edge so you take that right down - to paper so now I've got my my factory seam I've got it taped and I'm in I'm ready to coat it once I get my tape on in my mud out I'm still because of the bevel and the and this valley that I have to fill I'm still lower than this level right here so that's the benefit of a factory seam factory seams are a lot easier than the band butt joint because they you have this ability to fill this void and not have to have as big a hump for that Reed you can you can also stand up and you're hanging sheetrock you can do what we call stand ups and have your factory see more joint running vertical it's not easy to do that always because of the layout of the studs and the framing it's not possible to do that a lot of times but when it is it's a real benefit because it's a time-saver for taping most often your factory seams or joints will be running horizontal like this one so now that I've got my tape on here I'm going to go ahead and get my pan a knife I'm going to go ahead and use my 12 inch knife right off the bat and so I will I will make sure that I look at my 12 inch knife my 12 inch knife has a curve to it one way and so I'll make sure that I have my curve not going into the valley but the opposite so I'm not wiping mud right back out of that valley as I fill it and so I'll go ahead and take my my 12 inch knife and right from the start I will and I'm a little rusty with the 12 inch knife I have to tell you I don't use a 12 inch knife for coating very much at all I use a hawk and trowel more often and I'll show you how to do the same thing with the Hocking trail but as I go ahead I'll start by getting mud on this seam and and basically getting it filled up so to speak from the start so I'll go ahead and get that get the majority of the mud on first and then I'll start back here and I'll take the pressure and I'll put it on the outside of my knife and I'll go ahead and wipe that that that top edge off and then I'll do the same thing on the bottom I'll put it on the opposite the pressure on the opposite side of the knife and I'll wipe that off as you can see when I do that I have no mud on the outside edge which will be a benefit when it comes to sanding and then I'll take my knife and I'll just I'll just gently wipe that top edge off so again pressure on the outside of the the edge of the knife get this outside edge totally taken down to paper and then I'll take my knife and go right down the center of it I've got a little void there that was missed and I'll go ahead and and wipe that now as you can see there are little edges when you're coding a seam it does not have to be perfect the first time your biggest issue is making sure that your edges are down so you don't have to spend a lot of time sound sanding them and then I'm just getting it reasonably smooth because this is topping and we used all purpose to put the tape on and then we put that away and then we are using topping to coat this because topping is soft and sands easy and so and so for that reason we don't need to worry about having it perfect when the biggest mistakes people make when they're coating with mud is they spend way too much time getting it perfect your sander will go right over that it'll take all of these little imperfections off and once we have this dry and we sand it will be about 99% there we may need to do a quick skim coat and fill in any imperfections but we're ready to texture hope this has been helpful to you and you'll continue to follow us at drywall instruction com

Channel: Drywall Instruction

Views: 94,436

Rating: 4.826715 out of 5

Keywords: mudding and taping, taping drywall, drywall instruction, drywall videos, diy drywall, diy sheetrock, taping and coating, coating drywall, taping a factory seam, factory seam, drywall factory seam, how to sheetrock, how to drywall, how to tape and texture, drywall

Id: zHi7tSBqKLc

Length: 8min 6sec (486 seconds)

Published: Tue Feb 16 2016