Tapered Tenon Cutters

I'm going to make a tenant cutter to match the taper on this reamer here I made this in my last video this is for a Rima that I made a few years ago and the tape is different so I need one too much this one the tenon cutter has an obvious weak point just here so it needs to be made from a strong hard wood I'm going to use a squatty gun and for the blade I'm going to use this spudger blade and it's a little bit wider than this piece of got here so I'm going to glue another piece to the center and that's just for the main part of the body because the outside bits are going to be turned down to handles I need to mark the center's and because I glued that piece on the side this is off-center now so I've got a piece the same thickness as that and I'll just clamp that in place so I can mark the center I'm going to turn the handles down but I will remove some of the material with the bandsaw where so I'll just mark those lines that I've made the marks for the handles but before I cut them or turn them on the lathe I'm going to concentrate on this hole here so I'm going to mark the center drill the hole take her it and then from that point I can make the marks for these cuts that need to be made here and that will be easier to do now this is the reason why I made the reamer first because we need the reamer to be able to make the tenon cutter so now I'm going to put a taper into this hole it's not really meant for cutting timber as dense as this but it will do it if you take it easy and don't force it keep checking in each direction that you're going through square it will go off square if you don't pay attention to it I should have marked the center line all the way around earlier but I can still do that I can still find the center so just I've got my cheap bevel gauge set to 20 degrees and I'm going to make a mark from where the centre line touches the hole here and make a line across and then flip it over and do the opposite on the yet on the other side so again at this point here where the centre line meets the top of the hole I'm not going to make those cuts now I just wanted to lay out those lines before I go ahead and start shaping it and cutting the handles [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] I rounded the corners of the body over and you don't need to do that but because I've done that I've ended up taking off this line here and I need that to meet this face so I'm just gonna have to get right above it and eyeball that line along there and try and keep it in the right place actually that doesn't look quite right let's have another go than that and that looks better and I need to do that on the other side as well I need to join the two lines together across this space now and I put it in the vise to make that a little bit easier as you can probably see that line is tapered and that's because it follows the taper of the tapered hole now that we've marked out where we need to cut to make a bed for the blade to set on we also need to remove this whole section here we won't make the cut right on the center line it will need a little bit of clearance so I'm going to come over around about five mil this cut is a compound bangle it's got an angle across this way here plus an angle down but if you take your time and follow the line you should get it right I made an adjustment while making this cut and because of that the bed isn't quite flat so I need to address that and you can see the taper here that there's a little bit left on there and that's because it's a high spot so I'm just going to take this corner down and try and get this level I'm just going to pair it with a chisel before fitting the blade I'm going to round this corner over here as it is it will be quite an aggressive cut on that corner and it will have a tendency to tear into the workpiece where hopefully if I round it over it or ease into that cutter because I've rounded off the corner of the blade I'm going to match it by rounding over the opening to the larger side of the table [Music] you can either turn your dowel into the tenon cutter or put the dowel in the vise and turn the tenon cutter with it or even put the tenon cutter in the vise and turn the dowel I'm not sure what kind of wood this is all I can tell you is it is very hard the one thing I haven't mentioned is this tenon cutter will only make Tenon's of this size if we want to make a larger tenant then we have to make a separate tenant cutter I'll remove the blade here so I can show you we're using that section there with a reamer but the reamer will actually make a much wider tenon as well I'm going to make a second tenon cutter it will be no frills and nothing fancy and it should only take about 20 minutes to make I'm going to use soul plane iron for the blade and I'll put a couple pencil marks on the reamer for the size tenon that I want to make so I need to take a measurement of the narrowest point and that is 28 millimeters I've just marked up a 20 degree angle and that's for the plane iron to sit on I'm not sure what this wood is it's very hard and hopefully I can make it work but we'll see how we go the plane iron needs enough room to put a couple of fixings in if you use in a plane iron because I think one it may want to pivot because it's a long way from the edge with the other one that I made I only put one screw in there and I hold it fine because I can get a fix and further down so I need to put that in about the right position and with my force in a bit I've already done it actually but somewhere near the line there and like with enough room to fix their plane iron up there and make a mark and we can drill that out I might not have this line in exactly the right place I'll drill the hole I can always Sun that out and remake that line but that's given me a starting position to drill this hole I've just had a better look at the end grain and I'm pretty sure it's Jarrah but I may be wrong this side here needs to be the larger side of the taper so I do need to sum this low in half and remake that after I've made the taper probably not the best choice of wood but I did it and I managed to do I've marked this out exactly the same way as the other one I've got a 20 degree angle there to the centerline I need to do exactly the same on the back five mill over again and then the last thing is to join these marks here [Music] I made a bit of a pig's ear of that but I've got there in the end it wasn't an easy cut to make trying to come 20 degrees up the face there but what I should have probably done is just reduced the size of the block and just cut that down on the miter saw and then I would have been starting on the end here and there would have been enough for him to do that so that was what I should have done the blade didn't bed on there well at all because I made so many adjustments and it was all over the place but so I just took the high spots off with inches or and then I just finished it off with a sanding block and that's got it now I've just quickly turned this on the lathe and I believe it's white and ha Guinea but I may be wrong but we'll give that a go it's hardwood anyway so there we have it it works very very well I haven't round it off the corner of the blade and you don't have to do that but if you want to put a tenon on a piece of stock that's wider than the widest part the tenon first of all you have to shave down the end of the piece of stock so it can start so I've done that with a draw knife but what will happen is it will start tearing where it enters the blade and it can make a little bit of a mess and what you do have to do anyway is you have to keep going back with the draw and I can take a bit more often a bit more off but you can see how it makes a bit of a mess there so the idea of rounding the blade over is to help with that a little we probably won't make that much difference so it's not something that's essential it's a really strong joint just as it is without any glue look I'm going to glue it in and I've just cuts a kerf in there and I'm going to wedge it as well and there's no real reason to do that other than I think it looks nice and that's why I'm going to do it just want to see how it comes out that came out really nice for a quick and rushed demo at the glue is still wet I didn't wait for that to dry it's only having one coat to watch just to give an idea what it looks like and it's pretty nice it's not even square like I say I did brush it but it gives an idea of what it can do and it's a very strong joint oh I can't well with this hand at the moment but believe me it's a very very strong joint the tenon cutters turned out great this one here was a lot easier to make that when I say a lot easier there's not that much difference between the two but you don't have to go through the process of turning the handles I suppose you could actually just make the block and you could put handles and you could drill into it and set handles here but they don't actually need the handle so I use this one in the demo and you just turn turn the dowel into it works pretty well like a pencil sharpener this one here was a bit bigger what you could do actually I'll just grab it when I'm making my wooden threads I use this thing here and I just clamp that up around the dowel that works really well so if you build one like this and you struggle to turn the dowel when you could always make something like that too cluttered and turn the dowels that way but it was actually pretty easy to turn and my hands not the best at the moment either and I managed so even with the bigger dowel I think this is fine this works good so there's no real reason to do that does look nicer suppose if you didn't see my last video I made this reamer and you will need the reamer to be able to make these tenon cutters hopefully that was helpful to somebody if you enjoyed the video please like and subscribe thanks for watching and I'll see you on the next one

Channel: Pask Makes

Views: 954,716

Rating: 4.8237081 out of 5

Keywords: Tapered tenon cutter, tapered tenon, tenon cutter, tenon, reamer, tapered reamer, tapered mortice, tapered mortise, mortice reamer, mortise reamer

Id: mjFnMjlt6SE

Length: 15min 21sec (921 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 01 2018