Surface Plate Indicator Stand

[Music] hello and welcome back to the 10 bar and I'm pragmatically and today we've got another little project for you this one's gonna be making another tool be swing the camera around here and I'll show you what we're going to be working on all right what we're going to try to work on today or get made today is an indicator a stand for the surface plate I've got a high thin Decatur here that I have used by taking the pointer out and mounting the test test indicator into that but it doesn't work all that well it works good for highest gage which is what it's designed for what we're going to do today though is take these two blocks there in some more this old rusty material I've got around here good still in there just got a layer of paint and rust on but we're gonna clean these two blocks up size them together then there'll be a little spacer in between them with a flat bar on this end be screwed into the two sides on this will be a rod they have an indicator hook holder on it and then on the back side will have a knob for fine adjustments that will be in this flat plate just a little bit on that to get the final adjustments so what I'm gonna do first just take these old rusty pieces that I've got here care them over to the belt grinder and clean them up some get them to the point where I can at least start milling them and making them the size and not sure what I'm going to use the face meal or fly cutter on that too to get a good surface in this project we'll be using the meal right much and we'll use the surface grinder I don't think they'll be any lathe work on this in this project so I want to take these over to the belt grinder off-camera and try to get them cleaned up a little bit all right I got the two factory ages cleaned up well enough that I'm comfortable with them meeting on the vise jaws here on the meal and I think instead of getting out the fly cutter or the face meal I'm just going to use this eleven sixteenths in meal to clean up the ends and clean up surfaces like say we're gonna surface grind these not so much to try to get them to a particular size but just to get them all cosmetically looking good well clean up these salt cut edges of the two pieces I think this is probably going to be the smallest one so we'll size their first and then size the other one to this all right that's got this this age solidedge cleaned up I'm going to turn it around do the same thing to this edge the two factory edges clean all those up and then clean the surfaces with the same end meal here I'll bring you back when I got this piece done and show you what it looks like and then work on the next piece [Applause] okay I got the first piece roughed out now it comes to 2.2 or 9 by 2.9 thickness I'm not really concerned about as long as it was cleaned up again we're going to surface grind these just to get it a good-looking finish so I'm gonna do the same thing to this piece bring it to the same size as far as length and width I've got both pieces roughed out now to approximately the same size but before I lay out where the adjustment screw is going to be and where the holes would be for this end plate that is it hands on I want to come over here to the surface grinder and get them both exactly the same width and length again I'm not concerned about the thickness being the same I've already addressed the wheel and stone to the chuck so I think we're ready to go now we're gonna get the four sides even just gonna come down until I barely touch and I have warmed the Machine up as well I'm only advancing the down feed about mm at the time until I find the surface alright that finally touched off all the way across in all directions so I won't go down a half the thousands this time I'm still getting used to this machine and I was only advancing down 1,000 set the time there I'm sure could have done a whole lot more but like to say I'm still just getting used to this so I've come down 1/2 of thousands and this time I'm only gonna step over 50,000 set the time and finally I'm just gonna make a spark out fast all right I'm gonna turn that over do the same thing to the opposing sides and then we'll do it to each end but I think I'm going to increase my stroke length just a little bit over here on the power feed give me a little bit more reaction time more time to react I've got the blocks turned over now I've got to stroke lengthen a little over here on the on the power feed I'm gonna let's see I'm gonna try mm at the time dropping down this time all right now we're gonna take our half a thousand scut advancing only half as much and will spark out on the way back all right now to get those these ins here and to be sure it stands parallel on these sides I'm not going to trust trying to hold a square up there what I want to do is bring these right to the right to the edge of the vise I'll just use a parallel there too and that is just barely giving me enough room over here now what I'll do is turn the vise on its side get this in flatten that up then we'll turn it to the other side alright that's just barely enough room there we're not gonna do a whole lot of cutting on there just get these two edges the same don't believe I'll need my drip rag this time all right let's try one tells us now we'll just do a spark out pass again now what we'll do is line up the the edges that we just ground with the edge of the vise again that's leaving me just a little bit of room out this side over here all right I think I got device good and tied on there now cut the pieces lined up so let's give these last two edges just look in any high spots right now there's one little spot I'm chasing on here looks like where I might have a dwelled with the end meal just a little bit too long all right that gun at that time so we'll go down the half a thousand smaller finish cut and do the quarter step overs all right that's got all four sides done now go for the edges I won't carry this back over to the workbench and layout for the feet and for the adjustment on the - or final adjustment then I'm back over here at the mill now I've got the piece of standing upright excuse me the piece is standing upright in the vise I've scribed a line on this side at a hundred thousand seen and this side two hundred thousands and I'm gonna mill out a groove 225,000 steep right here that the hinge plate will mount in now the reason this one is 225 thousand sis side is going to be the bottom and there'll be a hundred thousandths thick feet on the bottom you'll see that shortly but I've got this kind of zeroed out now just going to take a very small cut to begin with to find my scribe line on this side alright I'm satisfied with that and I'm going zero out the wire right there so I know how to come back to it all right I've got my two five lines found all right we've got the grooves in there now and the reason it's this deep the hinge will hinge piece will be about a hundred thousands thick with a little over eight to an inch hundred twenty-five thousand but I wanted to head of the screws to be flush with the top of this as well so I won't carry this over indeed Burak then we're going to come back and cut the feet onto the bottom all right on the bottom got some scribe lines now hopefully you can see them but what I'm gonna do on each of the four corners I'm gonna leave a half inch square that will be the foot will come down to a hundred thousands all right out zero right there like I did before I'll take just a small cut to find my scribe line and set the DRO all right so there's zero on that side [Applause] 4:55 on that side [Applause] and we'll take 50,000 [Applause] all right I need to add a little cooler I'll be right back [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] alright there's our four feet for the bottom after after some deberían we'll have four good feet of course we'll carry this to the grinder for all said and done and be absolutely certain we got four flat edges there so I'm gonna get set up for the top piece for the couple holes we have to drill in it alright I've got the top piece mounted in the mill vise now and on this end we're going to put a quarter twenty eighth for the fine fine adjust knob and on this enemy of three eighths 24 which will be the stem that the indicator will mount on doesn't deal euro zeroed out so I can easily come back to that location to finish out the quarter inch hole this is a course of three eighths 24 tab slow way down for that all I really expect this to do is just get started amazing how well a good short tap will cut all right let's finish that up with the tap handle all right now we can come back to zero the deorro and do a quarter twenty eight holes all right a little deburring on those holes then I think we'll be ready to measure and working on our hinge piece all right we've got the top and bottom pieces of our indicator holder again roughed out got this little hinge piece which is nothing but a piece of a 18 stick just flat stock bar stock turned out it was the inch and eight wide when I put a eighth inch using eighth inch parallel as a spacer down here so I'm gonna set that in device to hold it together on that axis and then I'm going to use a Kant class clamp I'll clamp to hold it together on this axis get everything lined up that's what the purpose of this clamp is to be sure it's lined up good side to side now we're gonna drill and tap for 1024 holes in this - to attach the hinge plate I'm gonna drill and tap through both the hinge and the two pieces of the body once I get that done I can take the hands out and and drill the clearance hole for that all right there's a full holes drilled I'm gonna put our 1024 tap in I do not expect to be able to power tap very much of this is that that tap is not very not very sharp yeah alright since we got such a dull tile I'm just gonna use the tap tap guide not even try to power tap it I wanted to be sure all this state in place so it was the reason I was going to tap the hinge plate at the same time but it wanted to sneak out our layer which is perfectly fine everything else stayed in place alright I won't continue on in tap all four of these holes and then the next thing we're going to do is carry these two pieces over to the surface grinder and put a finished grind on them alright these pieces are drilled and tapped now the hinge piece is in there what the eighth inch gap so I'm gonna take this back apart go over to the surface grinder and grind these surfaces flat I'm not going to try to to grind them both at the same time again as I've said several times the thickness of these does not need to be the same so I'm gonna set that up and and get both sides of both pieces surface ground [Music] all right I think we're pretty well done with the base now we've got the two pieces got the four feet on there our holes drilled and tapped and our hinge down here now for the standard that the indicator would mount on I'm using just a piece of 3/8 inch drill rod that will screw into to that hole that we drilled and of course tighten down with that now what we need is something to hold the indicator on and I've got a little Oh a dovetail piece here with my indicator just clamps onto the top of it with the dovetail that is a 5/32 pen so what we're going to do is I've got a piece of this is a 5/8 inch square piece about let's see inch and a half long 1.55 maybe we're gonna drill it for the 3/8 well actually we're going to drill a 23 64 and remit to a thousands over 3/8 and then in the face down here we're gonna drill a 5/32 hole for this to go into then we'll come back and put a set screw in this end and in this in not actually going to use a set square we're going to use a knob with a 1024 bolt on it so I won't set up now to drill these first two holes in here and then we'll course drill for our knobs don't necessarily like to hang material off the edge like this but that hole is going to be exactly the size of what's in between two parallels and I don't want to take a chance of Vol damaging the parallels so I won't let it hang out a little bit over here I think a will drill a lead-in hole for that even though it's only a 2360 force without hanging off over there I don't have to put a lot of pressure on it now one grandma chicken reamer that's thousands over three AIDS and that should slip very nicely right over our piece of drill rod which it does thousands oversize all right now I'm going simply set up in this end down here and drill a 5/32 I'll bring you back when we get ready to drill in town for the offset screws so cut the standard mounted on there now go to the drill hole drilled for the slide over that and then in got a little hole for the indicator you can see so what we need is a hole in the side of this drilled and tapped and a hole in the back of this drilled and tapped for 1032 I'm going I'm just going to use some of these hardware store knobs I had a couple of them but that'll go into one we'll go in the back and one will go in decide to to hold the indicator tight so I don't drill and tap these out since that is such a small lending small hole for lending and later I'm gonna follow this one up with the bottom tab all right I'm going to deburr this piece carried over to the surface grinder I won't try to video that but I'm just gonna clean this piece up just like I did the the base Pete one two three all right I think we're ready to call this project completed we've got our two base pieces in we've got our knob being for the fine adjustment again that's just a hardware store knob on there on the piece of quarter 28 rod I didn't make a mistake building this I put that tightening screw here on the back back here but that interferes with that knob so I simply put one in the side drilling tap one in the side but of course I'm sure you're familiar the way this would work if you got a piece you want to test on it that you want to measure just use this course adjust here of course to to bring it close by they get you back in frame here alright then we're gonna pull our piece in and instead of handling this and trying to twist all that and touching it we can just use this fine adjust until we pull it up a zero that was this setting in place we can move our workpiece around and look for any deviations in it this is this particular piece of metal is the one I use for testing various learning on the surface grinder and it's within a quarter of a thousandth it looks like we're just experimenting that I've been done been doing so I hope this has been enjoyable to you I feel like this is a tool that I've needed for a long time here in the ten barn but again hope you've enjoyed this video and we'll see you on the next one [Music]

Channel: MrPragmaticLee

Views: 12,984

Rating: 4.9542336 out of 5

Keywords: PM-727, Harig Super 612 Surface Grinder, PM-1127

Id: dakw2qwusCI

Length: 34min 14sec (2054 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 07 2018