Mill Toe Clamps For ToolMakers Vise

[Music] well hello and welcome back to the ten born I'm pragmatically and this week we've got another little tool making project we're gonna try to get completed today I'm gonna be using another piece of this old tuba - rusty wagon axle but I salvaged a couple years ago it's getting kind of short now but we won't be using a piece about two and a quarter off of this what I'm going to do is try to make some I'll hold down clamps for this little vise now this I bought this vise right after I got my surface grinder and been using it on only on the surface grinder and in the last week or so when one of the Facebook groups along I'm on one of the machining Facebook groups couple guys or several guys gotten a pissing contest over a fellow showing a picture of using a vise like this on a meal I never thought twice about it I've seen a lot of guys use these on the mills but there was some dude that says he's got 40 years experience of tooling die making and you can't use that vise on the meals too much torque the only thing that'll work on a meal is a curt vise you know what I'm talking about they the guys that hide behind the keyboard but it got me to thinking about I don't have a way to hold this on my meal it should I won't use it on on the meal and I have absolutely no problem whatsoever using this on a meal I'm not going to be taking two hundred thousand death cuts at the time unless it's a rough an end meal the claim was that these two makers vices just can't handle the torque that's applied on the meal well like I say I've seen many many guys on YouTube use these vices regularly on their meal so what I'm going to do today first thing I'm going to do is cut a piece of this off and get rid of all this rust you've seen me work with this material several times in the past so I'm not going to bore you with that I'm gonna get it cleaned up and then we're gonna meet back over at the meal and we're gonna start cutting them out and what I hope to do is make four of these clamps and make them in one piece and then saw them into the four pieces so I'll get this cleaned up and we'll meet back over on the mill alright I got the piece milled down got it square one side I didn't try to mill deep enough to get the pits out of it Lots gonna be cut out of this anyhow but before we start on the meal I'm gonna go ahead on over here to the surface grinder and set up and just grind it enough to take these off in mill marks off of it dog tracks off just trying to find it closed now and again I'm not trying to put a super fine finish on this all I'm going to do is take it down enough to clean the mill tracks off take several passes that found the high spot that's what I was looking for based on the way this is started grinding I'm comfortable and saying my meal is probably about a couple thousand side of trim in about a three inch span either that or there was some a burr on that edge there I'm only stepping Daryl thousands at the time all right I've made a couple more passes and I'm down to words it's cleaned up across here now but I'm gonna start trying to put a little bit of a finish on there I had been stepping down up on the fine feet up here a hundred thousand times sorry one thousandth at the time and step over on the Z a hundred thousands what I want to do now I want to take one two three four tens for ten several thousands and I'm only going to step over a 50 thousandths at the time now I'm gonna put a little cool it on there this pass right here is just to clean up the tracks from the wheels of stepping over a hundred-thousand setting the time only taking four tenths of a thousands cut now now for the final pass on there I'm going to step down to tens to tens of thousands and I want to step over only 20,000 set the time here but that final pass would only two tents there is basically a spark out pass now I think there's probably two things keeping me from getting me what some would call a perfect finish on there I can still see the lines just a little bit in comparison to the end mill but I think there's probably two things is keeping me from getting a and absolutely perfect I hate to use the term perfect but a a finish professional finish we'll call it that and number one I'm sitting on a wood floor and every time it doesn't matter if I use the power feed on here or if I do it by hand when I make that transition the surface grinder rocks just a little bit and that's on this wood floor as one of the reasons I make a longer stroke on there it's necessary than necessary with this power feed is to give the surface grinder time to settle back down after it makes that transition the second thing is I can dress my wheels I've got a wheel dresser here but I don't have a way to balance them yet and I believe my wheels are a little bit out of balance and I think that has more to do with getting that perfect machine on there than the machine actually rocking since it does settle down but in any case I won't go ahead and do the same thing to the other two more sides over here the fourth side that's kind of these pits in it all I'm going to do is worry about the edges on that because the rest of this is gonna be milled out but I'll bring you back when we get done with that part okay I've got all four sides now surface ground this side right here I didn't put a whole lot of attention into it again this is going to be majority of this is going to be milled out also did the ends and while this is all one block what I want to do is try to put a little chapter on the surface with the surface grinder on each of the edges around here so what I'm going to use is a 45 degree transfer block and I'm also going to use the block at the end of the material just to help keep it from or just another little bit of insurance to keep the piece from kicking out here so what we're going to do is just come down until we touch again I'm gonna back off of there and what I'm going to do is grind across this until I have what I what is pleasing to me as a chamfer on there then what I'll do is set the zero on the on the dial up here and I'll be able to come back to that same depth on each of the four sides I'm gonna take mm each time here I suspect based on doing this on other material that about 40,000 since what I'm looking for here I'm not even keeping up with it right now I think this is 12 all right I think that's a good-looking chapter I won't keeping up with it I don't know whether you were or not but now I just simply bring the ring over here where it reads zero and I'll raise the I'll raise it up probably about a half a revolution here just to just another this out of the way okay and again what I want to do now is just keep working down until I come back to my zero on the ring so that's gonna be about this ring is 50 thousandths I'm at about 47 now just touching so it's approximately 40,000 that I went down and these first little cuts on here I can go ahead and drop three thousandths at the time why this should be the final pass now I'll continue that for the other two edges I'll bring you back when I get ready to do the end what that wound up being on the dial up here was 45 thousands so when I do the ends I have to reset my zero but I know where to start from yeah we've got the four edges done on the on the long axis and I've got it set on the end now there's a lot sticking out here so I think what I'm going to do I think I'll take a second transfer block set flat on the match up with one of them and then turn the other one up as such and that should give plenty of force she'll give resistance to the force going in that direction so what I'm going to do now is touch off just gradually bringing it down with the define feed all right we're touching there I'll set zero on my doll and come down 45 thousands is the final pass here and I'll continue to do that for the other three edges on this end turn it around do the same thing on the other end we've got all the edges I can chapter on the surface grinding are done at this time when I solve this into four pieces of course I'll have some more to do but this saw just took care of the majority of them while it was all one block now what I want to do is use my high skate and trying to get a idea of what the or get a measurement on what the finished height is and that is two points I'll have to lock it down and pick it up where I can see it two point four nine one now once the song that I'll be using to slit this with is ninety thousand so I'm gonna forget that 1,007.50 says two point four divided by two is one point two divide that by two is point six so the holes are going to be the first thing that I drilled so let's see if I can get this set up on point six I think my thinking is correct here all right as I said before this place where I didn't completely clean it up is going to be milled out so the holes will go through the bolt holes will go through the sides opposite of that alright so from the ends the bolt should be at the point six if you can see what I was doing there I was just simply using a carbide tip on this highest gauge to mark that from each end now our finished width come out to be one point eight seven three so I divide that by two that would be nine thirty six double check that one point eight seven three nine four two nine three six five okay so we'll check that point nine three six so we have just simply two holes to drill through this top right here which will be a half way alright there's our drill through yeah I'll help oh and two pieces at the bottom so I'm gonna get set up on the army'll to drill these two holes drill them I'll drill them counterbore this side flip it over counter bore the other side gun to workpiece in the mill vise now and what I'm gonna do is use the wiggler to to locate the first hole okay I'm gonna set my zero out my do-over right there on that spot in case I need to come back to it and I'll lock the table down and do this one hole at the time and my table mounting bolts clamping bolts or 3/8 so I'm gonna use a 3/8 drill drill all the way through all right give me just a moment ago find my 3h counterbore all right I'll zero out the Dro and should go down 375 thousands all right remember I said the Dro to zero so I should be able to come over here where I can test this and that's good all right so now we'll take the wiggler find the second hole drill and counterbore yet I'll bring you back when we turn over and then we're gonna locate those holes and counterbore them on the other side and I've got the piece flipped over now and all I'm going to do to line that up is just used a bit itself the counterbore itself zero out at that point excuse my head arm and everything else [Music] okay now it's time to lay out for the the cuts we're gonna the meal and we're gonna do in here to take that out so I'll go back over to the workbench get that set up and then we'll come back and start doing some heavy milling okay I've got a few layout lines on there now not that I'm gonna use them a whole lot but those were just sanity check marks what we have I've got the piece turning in there sideways now as you can see that the bolt holes that we drilled are going through on the y-axis so it's turned in here this way now we're gonna take out all this part that's graded right here there'll be 3/8 left over here this is the lip or the toe that will actually hook inside the the slots in the in device this is the end that will actually set on the table so we're gonna come in 3/4 of an inch from this side and then 3/4 inch down do that both of both sides clean that out and to do that I'm just going to use the paper method to find the edge this is a 7/16 rough an end mill and I really don't want to be changing out between the edge finder which is the 3/8 and this so what I'm doing right here finding that edge with the paper will be plenty sufficient okay I need to remember which way my Detroit my mail is turning all right well zero out the x-axis right there I'm sorry the y-axis now this is a 7/16 in mill so that's point four three seven five I should have this outside edge even with the edge of the end mill now I'll zero out again and go in 375 and see how close that looks to my sanity mark all right should be right on there so I'll walk the table down zero the deorro and this is a rough an end mill so I should be able to take that fool 375,000 depth all right let's pack up and take about 250 at the time all right that's better I gotta see slowed down now [Music] now we can go down remained earth to 375 [Applause] all right the center trough is peeled out now I've got the end mill located on the center I've located the center on the y axes of our workpiece and I'm going to take this out now down to about another inch in there and then we'll take a look at it and see what we think and I'm gonna take two hundred by two hundred thousandths at the time [Applause] [Applause] why that's got the one-inch gap in there but I think what I want to do is step over I don't know we'll start with 50 thousands we're gonna come back up to a half inch here now I'm going to step on each side of 0 50 thousands I'll see what that looks like on this end down here I think I've go another 25 [Applause] all right now we're going to 75 miles from the other side of zero [Applause] and we'll come back down to a one inch depth make another pass on each side [Applause] alright I think we've got the heavy milling done I do like that cooler in Mill just as cool as it can be there alright need to deburr this and look at it one more time to be sure before I take it out mr. Pete says you can never get it back in the same place this down here will be what sets on the mill table this will be the toe that goes into the slots on the on device so I think after I divert a little bit we're ready to be ready to put a slit in here all right I think we're ready to use a slitting saw now and slid it along this axis right here to give us two two of our four clamps on each side I've got some tall parallels in here now be sure this is seated in there real good because I've got to give clearance for the song on the vise now I've got some marks on there again they're just sanity check marks that are spaced from the edge so that the 90000 switch is the thickness of the blade is centered on there what I want to do though is take an actual measurement with the dealer what I'm going to do is measure from these parallels which is the same as the bottom the distance between that and the top of a workpiece and then divide in half so there's touching off on the parallels I will zero there like 1/8 I'm still like one point eight nine seven one point eight nine 7/2 [Music] nine four eight five nine four eight I think that's close enough now we'll check it against my sanity marks looks right on the money let's see if I can get it maybe just a little high just some springing that blade when you're doing measurements like that so in this case practically check I trust my sanity marks more so than I do the spring on the on the saw blade lock that down I'm just going to SC I need to slow way down all right this is a brand-new Niagara slitting saw First Niagara I've had so let's see how that does just a little deeper they're slow to feed way down [Applause] very pleased with the saw slitting saw got a little bird there where it fell over before it finished cutting I think that's probably within a couple thousands right there of being of being the same height all right I'm gonna deburr these then we're ready to stand them up on the end and slice them into to make our final four all right we got our piece of solder part and off camera I set these back in the middle as such and milled this surface this one and this one across both of them at one time to be absolutely certain that they were the same height and the only reason I did that they don't have to be that close but I did that I'm gonna get ready to solve these in half I want to put them in the I want to put them in the mill vise again at the same time but when we when we split these two pieces at this point that exposed to more edges on each one that we can put our chapter on so I'm gonna do that on surface grinder again using magnetic transfer block and when I get this set up I'll bring in a little bit closer so you can see for certain what I'm doing here okay what I've done is set a 45 degree block against the fence back here at the back got it centered on the truck again these are not magnetic blocks they're not magnetic they're magnetic transfer so cut that on there now we'll set our workpiece on and the forces are going to be pushing that way so I'll just take another one of these transfer blocks just as a little added security there to make sure I've got all the help I can and holding that piece from shooting out in that direction so what we're going to do is touch off here all right that's just beginning to touch so as before I'll zero out the o-ring OMA on went down feed and we're gonna take this down about 45,000 just like we did before all right here's our life final cut so what we did was just take this edge right here now I want to do the same thing to this outside the edge over here so push it up against my block oK we've got all the edges done we can do at this point now so we've got this edge and this one once we get it sliced in two we'll have a couple more edges to do over there I'm going to do the same thing to the other half then I'll bring you back when we get ready to go to the slit and so on the middle and back over at the mill now and I've got the slitting saw back in we've got the two pieces stood on the end on top of a parallel got the center located now we're going to slice these in and make four pieces now we should be able to go to full depth just be sure everything is locked down [Applause] alright I don't think we're gonna be able to go full depth let's start right there [Applause] okay so just to clarify the song will to cut that full depth without issue the spindle would elf would have hit our piece so if we hadn't made the cuts our so now we just go around to the backside and just like milling we're going conventional cut here keeping our same height [Applause] oK we've got our four pieces made now all four of our clamps what I will need to do is go back over to the let me get this in focus here go back over to the surface grinder and clean this edge off now or chamfer this edge that's really the only one that's left this edge on each of the four pieces oh I'm sorry in this this in here as well so I'm gonna do that off camera and then we'll go back to the workbench and recap this video alright I think we've got ready to conclude this project as I said at the beginning of the project I don't know that I'll need this vise on the meal but if I do if I find a use for it on the meal first off I've got clamps now that I can mount it on the meal and I'd have absolutely no problem using this type of ice on the meal I've made four of these clamps of based on the size of my mill table and the size of this vise I don't think I would ever be able to get but to it to time on there maybe two on the sides one on each side or one on each end just the court now set it up but it was just as easy to make four of them as it was two and they've got nice chamfered edges all the way around on all the exposed surfaces so I'm pleased with the way these turned out hope you've got a little bit out of this video and we'll see you on the next one [Music] you [Music]

Channel: MrPragmaticLee

Views: 25,408

Rating: 4.9153094 out of 5

Keywords: Precision Matthews 727, Harig Super 612, Tool Makers Vise, Surface Grinder

Id: jwjxlpsInng

Length: 37min 1sec (2221 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 20 2018