Hello! My name is Svetlana Sapegina.
Welcome to my "Super Beads" channel! This spring I found myself in an absolutely shiny project - creation of sun catchers. As a result, I've got not just simple sun catchers, but transformers! They can be used both as
sparkly crystals for your home and as jewelry: bracelets, chokers and necklaces. Crystals can be swept and
their length can be adjusted. It was hard to decide on the
length of the chain for the crystal, so I've got an idea to make it adjustable.
You can use the full length, or make it a little shorter, or even shorter, or you can use the crystal just on a hook. And you can use the chains
as bracelets and necklaces. In today's master class, we will work with this extremely beautiful colorful drop shaped crystal. So, if you're ready to work on it, let's take a look at what materials and tools we need. Bobby Beads store has a unique crystal collection - I've got all my crystals here! You can choose completely different shapes, sizes, colors - it's up
to your taste! I started with this size and down to the smallest. I haven't tried this one yet... I really like this type - they have the rainbow AB finish. You can also find fully black opaque balls or transparent, but very very dark red, for example. Here are different figurines - I especially like this heart, and this precious star. And there are also very beautiful glass discs. Then we need different beads these are PRECIOSA bicones 4 mm in diameter. The most neutral shade - transparent with a rainbow finish: "CRYSTAL AB". You can match the beads color with the color of your crystal. If you have a yellow crystal, then use
yellow beads, or you can combine different shades. With some crystals I used 3 mm
bicones as an extra touch, for example I combined small 3 mm bicones with
large 4 mm bicones, but in fact, you can use any beads within 4 mm. We have a whole section with Czech beads in various shades and shapes. I also tried to use this oval
faceted shape which is called Fire Polish. Now let's look at what kind of wire we need.
Here in the store we have all the sizes: from the thickest 16 gauge to the extra fine and thin 30 gauge. We are not going to use such a thin one though. The main one that we need is silver color 22 gauge which is 0.6 mm in diameter. In fact, you can take any color. Silver
is just the most neutral and that's why commonly used. We will use this wire for bicones or any other 4 mm beads. It's also good for creation of wire bail for small crystals. 20 gauge or 0.8 mm wire will work for the bails of larger crystals. For the hook, you will need either silver 18 gauge wire which is 1 mm
in diameter, or even thicker - 16 gauge (1.3 mm), if the crystal is massive enough. These are 4 basic sizes of wire that you may need: from 16 gauge to 22 gauge. The smaller the number the thicker the wire. In order to adjust the length of the crystal chain, you will need different clasps for example magnetic. Magnetic clasps can be of any
shape, size and color. If your sun catcher weighs more than 25 grams, it's better to use a kind of twist or lobster clasps. In general, any jewelry clasps or various hooks, for example s-hooks, can work. By the way we can also make them from wire. The main kind of tools we may need are: wire cutters, round nose pliers, chain nose pliers and flat nose pliers. It's also nice to have the nylon
nose pliers. If you are going to create wire hooks together with me, you will also need additional tools: a steel bench block and a chasing hammer. I prepared all the materials and
tools to work on this gorgeous crystal! I have six types of bicone beads
to match the shades of the crystal: from bright bluish gold to silver. Take a spool of 22 gauge or 0.6 mm wire.
I always straighten it with my nylon nose pliers. Let's start with creation of the first bicone link on the example of these beautiful bright crystals. The only difference is they are 5 mm. Usually it was always 4 mm. So, I hope, it will be easier to see. Put on several beads on the wire. Take the round nose pliers - this tool is used for making small loops.
Use the very tip or almost the very tip and begin to turn. I like to turn from myself, but you might like it toward yourself. Either way is good. When the loop is done, align the nose of the plier with the end of the loop, and do a back movement - to get such a bend, so that the loop is centered on top. If there is a kind of a gap, you can additionally press the loop with your pliers. It is better to use pliers with smooth noses without any ribs - not to scratch the wire. But on the other hand, this kind of pliers can be slippery.
Then again i like to use my nylon nose pliers to smooth and straighten the wire.
Now bring the bicone up to the loop. Bend the wire the opposite
direction to create a similar curve. I use my fingernail to make it perfect and as tight as possible to the edge of the bicone crystal to secure it in its place. Cut the wire off leaving the end about 5-7 mm. 6 mm is an ideal length. It also depends, of course, on the loop size you want to get. Now again, take the round nose pliers,
and start curling the other loop. Ideally, the wire end should reach
all the way to the bicone edge. If the element looks a little too crooked which sometimes happens, align the wire loops by means of two pliers - like this. We just finished the first crystal link of
our future crystal chain. We have a bicone in the middle and two loops curled in the opposite directions. So, we have a perfect balance in one link. The first pile of crystal links is ready.
Do the same with all the other bicone crystals. In total, you need to make about 100 crystal links for a total chain length of 1 m. One crystal link is approximately 1 cm long, loop diameter is about 3 mm. Now let's think over the chain color scheme. My chain will consist of repetitive segments in the center of which are the brightest accent 5 mm bicones. I start connecting the links
with a silver bicone.
To open the loop correctly, you need to pull it forwards with pliers.
Do not bend it out not to disturb the round shape. Then take the next link of the next color, pass it through the loop, and close it by pushing it back into place. Continue in the same spirit alternating the bicones by color. The result is a color scheme for the
segment from silver to bright blue and back. Then, I take the accent bicone again.
And so the skin will be repeated several times, depending on the length of the chain. Our first part is ready it's called a
bracelet - the length is just right for the hand: from 16 to 18 cm. Or you
can add two more blue crystals on the sides to make the bracelet longer, and
then the magnetic clasp will go. The next element is a choker - its
length is about 35 cm. This element, like the bracelet, ends with 2 large blue beads. It can also be worn as a double bracelet. The last item is called a
necklace with the length of about 40 cm. Now you can start attaching the magnetic clasps. The bracelet is ready, or it's the smallest element for the chain of a crystal. Repeat the same with the rest.
Here are all 3 elements: a bracelet, choker and necklace. This magnetic clasp will be used
to connect the crystal and the hook. Now let's move on to the most important part - making a bail for your sun catcher. Take a piece of 20 gauge (0.8 mm) wire, 25-30 cm long. I start with forming the base of the bail for the crystal. You don't want to use the crystal itself for this not to damage the crystal hole.
So I'm using the base of the nylon nose pliers since it roughly corresponds to the width of the crystal hole.
Place the nylon nose pliers leaving about 3-4 cm from the end of the
wire, and make a loop in the shape of your tool. Slightly unbend the short
wire end to put the crystal on. Squeeze the loop again. I prefer not to tighten the loop too much to leave the space for the crystal. Adjust the intersection of the wires in the middle and using pliers bend both ends vertically, so two ends sit side by side. Usually, at this stage, most people cut the shorter end off leaving only 5 mm, but I prefer to leave it longer for now. It is more convenient for me to work with, and increases the stability of the work. Take the round nose pliers and bend the longer end of the wire leaving 5 mm leg space. Now you need to make a loop at the top.
Put the small end aside, so it doesn't interfere. With the round nose pliers grab the wire at the corner approximately in the middle of the nose, and bend the working wire over the upper plier nose.
Now, I change noses and finish the loop. So we got a loop with a diameter of about 5 mm at the very top in the center. Using pliers with wide noses, clamp the loop and the short end of the wire, and with the long one, begin to wrap the leg making even coils. Do it until the 5 mm leg space is covered up with the wire coils. The coils should be smooth and tight.
So, from this side it's covered good... Here, this will be the last turn of the coil; and you can cut the wire very close at the bottom. Press to tuck the end with the pliers. Now I'm going to get rid of the first wire end on top: just bend it, and very carefully cut it very close to a spine. Additionally, you can use the chain nose pliers to tuck the end inward. The only thing left is to tweak the
loop of the bail using nylon nose pliers. That's all, the bail is ready!
A little life hack: When working with crystals, wash your hands regularly,
so they always look crystal clear! You can use different wire gauges for bails, depending on the size and weight of the sun catcher. For example, for the largest crystal, it's
better to take 18 gauge (1 mm) wire. For the medium-sized crystal, the one we are making now, 20 gauge (0.8 mm) wire. And for the small and light crystals - 22 gauge (0.6 mm) wire - exactly the same size as for making a chain. Now let's move on to the fun part - creation of a hook! Take a piece of 18 gauge (1 mm) wire, 10-13 cm long. It's best to cut at an angle. Using the very tip of the round nose pliers, begin to curve the end of the wire, but not completely. Press it with pliers to create a tiny curl - almost like a bead at the end of the wire. You can straighten the wire again with
nylon nose pliers. I have already given a slight curve to the tip. Then we give
a band to the hook by wrapping it around a simple soft grip handle. The band can be done at any level, depending on how large you want the hook to be. For a medium-size hook, start at about 1.5-2 cm from the curled end. Bend the wire around your dowel with your thumb until the ends come together. You can still adjust it with your hands
to make it wider or bend it beautifully. Bend the wire with your pliers
directly across the little curl. At this stage you can already shape
the hook by tapping with a hammer. I first use the nylon part to straighten the wire. And then, I will use the steel
part to flatten the wire. The hook tip moves a little to the side, so I pinch it back in place. You can feel that the wire has become hardened. As a result, when you hammer the wire, it becomes stiffer and gets a flattened shape. It seemed to be stretched. I worked mainly on the upper part of the curve and a little on the sides, and left the curl tip and the working wire intact. After that, leave 5 mm leg space, and bend the working wire. Grab the wire at the corner with the round nose pliers, and wrap the working wire end around and approximately in the middle of the
outer nose to get a 5 mm loop. Interchange the plier nose, if
needed and finish the wire wrap. If you want to hang something directly
on the hook, then you need to do it now before moving on to the next step.
But since I'm going to attach the crystal to the hook by means of a bacon link, I won't do
that. I also want to hammer the loop flat. This is optional, you can leave it round.
Let's step a little again. Well, now you need to complete the hook by making 3-4 turns around
the wire to fill up the leg space. I think, that's enough. If the coils are loose somewhere, you can additionally press and tighten them with pliers. Now take the cutters and cut the
excessive wire off to the very spine at an angle. Use pliers to tuck the end in, so that
it doesn't stick out and doesn't scratch. That's all, we've got a nice hook! Here is the final stage - attach the last magnetic clasp. For this purpose, I have prepared two links with blue bicones. The only difference is
that I made them on the heavier 20 gauge (0.8 mm) wire - same as the crystal bail. One link is attached to the hook.
Open it up... Insert the hook... And then close it. And the second link is attached to the crystal.
Open... Insert the crystal... Close. Next comes the magnetic clasp.
But first, you need to decide on the right magnet side to attach it. I already have other sun catchers, so to be able to swap them later you must do it right. You see, this one is wrong.
Then, this half will be attached to the chain. And the other half will be attached
to the crystal. This is a right pair. Attach it to the crystal... And another one to the hook. Hurray! Now we have a shortest version of a sun catcher with just a crystal and a hook. Look, you can interchange crystals.
I can use the same hook, for example, for this crystal, because the magnet parts are attached correctly.
Or I can hang this crystal on another chain. Use different wire gauges for the hooks, depending on the size of the crystal. For large ones 16 gauge (1.3 mm) wire.
Four small ones 18 gauge (1 mm) wire So, all 5 parts are ready: a crystal with a hook and 3 chains: a short one which we conventionally call a bracelet; this is a choker - a double bracelet; and a necklace. Here is a full length of the sun catcher with a chain. S-hooks can be used instead of
magnetic clasps and connectors. For each s-hook use 18 gauge or (1 mm) wire and two jump rings, which you can either buy or make
from wire as well. Let's make them! I prefer to make an s-hook
without cutting the wire off from the spool. Start by curling a very tiny loop. Give it a slight bend here, and then at a distance of 0.51 cm, bend the wire with the round nose pliers.
You can decide on the size of the bend, how big you want it to be. I used the middle of the round nose.
After the curly end touched the wire, make the opposite bend of the same
size at about the same distance. The working wire should reach the center point. Then bend it slightly aside. Clip off the working wire leaving about 2-3 mm: just enough to make the same curl at the end. I do it all by eye, and slightly at an angle. Now again, take the chain nose pliers or round nose pliers and curl the tip. I like to use pliers with thin noses in this case. Next, squeeze and bend it slightly to the side for symmetry. These 2 beautiful little curls need to meet each other in the middle.
To finish the s-hook, hammer it with the nylon end first, and then with the steel end, but only on top of the loops. S-hook is ready! To make the jump rings, use 20 gauge (0.8 mm) wire. Take any suitable stick, for example, I'm using a stick from a big lollipop, and make a few coils. Tightly press them together. Bend the wire end so there is no waste of wire. Use the nylon nose pliers. Remove the stick, and cut aligning with the initial tip. I've got 5 rings 5-6 mm in diameter.
Straighten and close them if needed. Use 2 rings for each s-hook. The rings are then attached to the chains. I hope, you enjoyed this master class! Create such a beautiful sun catcher for your home, hang it in the window or above your table. It will catch the sun rays and dissolve tons of sunshine in your room, and bring you a good mood every day! Well, we are done with our master class. See you later!
