How to Build a Ford 347 342 331 306 302 5.0 SBF (Part 1)

I plan to have this engine dyno what's broken in and I'll post those results and an update video and also on my website so check out my website fast Frank Motorsports calm and if you're at the racetrack that I'm at some day love to see you start with we've got a bear block now this block is already back from the machine shop and there are a few things I want to go through that you'll want to do before you bring to the machine shop I don't want to tap these three oil galley holes so that you can use the threaded plug instead of the pressing plug the press end plugs are notorious for popping it there's three more on the back same story this one in particular it actually engages into the get the light right here into that first lifter bore and it will leave a rag so you'll want to clean that up this is a 347 we're gonna need to nosh the bottoms of the cylinders so with the stroker tray the rod ends the big end of the rod will come very close to an in fact actually make contact with a cylinder wall in this location so you have to notch each cylinder wall take about 3/16 of an inch down and wide enough so that the rod bolt can clear through there you'll do that on all the cylinders if you're not sure exactly where you need to make that clearancing if you're not reusing the old assembly in any way you can just leave the old assembly rotating assembly installed while you do this clearancing and you can see where it comes close and use that as your point of reference and this cylinder here the oil pump boss mounting it will also want to be clearance because as you can see it'll kind of swing through that area the deck tip for us smooth the surface out completely boil it replaced all the plugs replace the cam bearings board at 30 over and torque plate hone now that that's all been completed we'll kind of clean any residual material that's been left on there and start by checking main bearing clearances with the crankshaft so 3:47 scat 9000 series it comes completely covered in rust inhibitor and you don't want that gunk on your bearing services when you're checking clearances or during assembly so use some carb cleaner to clean off all these surfaces here then you can go ahead and install the bearings into the block put the side with the groove on the block and the side without the groove on the main cap the third bearing the center bearing is the thrust bearing and it'll have this extra side part on here that's the only location which that bearing is supposed to go then what we're going to do is when you use our plastic edge here and you lay it across the bearing surface on the cap side all the way across like crossways like this you can see how here I've got the plastic gauge laid across the bearing surface and then I'll lay the bearing cap right on top of that and bolted also notice that the bearing caps have a number and an arrow on them arrows go toward the front of the block and the numbers represent which bearing location so number one goes at the front of the block and worked your bed way back to number five so I've torqued everything down and now release it do not rotate the crankshaft is that'll spirit so I'll gently remove the bolts to remove these bearing caps without disturbing the plastic age so I'm just going to tap and see I'll just show you one before I do the rest that the plastic age has spread out you can see where we're at so it looks like a rate at about mm there and see how that that width matches just wanted to show you what all the rest of the bearing surfaces look like and point out one other aspect here you can notice that it'll stay in focus that the width of the line is the same all the way across the bearing if you notice the differences in width across that means that the bearing is tapered somehow or the journal is tapered somehow and just want to check the work of my supplier okay so now what we'll do is we'll clean all that gunk off of there remove the crankshaft and reassemble it with engine assembly lube this time you don't have to go crazy with it remember there's only a couple of thousands of clearance here so once you install the crank it's just gonna squeeze most of that stuff out and down into the holes or the oil galleys and then of course we put some on the other side I'm the main bearing caps remember that there's a thrust bearing on the number three so put some on both sides top and bottom so that we lubricate the sides as well all right we've got a main bearing caps installed just snug no torque really and then as we pull them in we'll want to tap the crankshaft forward and back to continue to reseat the thrust bearing which is the center bearing so just using a brass hammer just gently tap it both directions and then we'll torque all but the center bearing one of the three steps up to the 70 foot pound and this is aligning everything because we're trying to align five caps one of which is controlling the thrust now just add a little bit we're just snugging the center one we just want to make sure it's fully seated we don't really want any port pen all right then we I'm another step on these hey now we can go over to the port then once we get these torque we do a final thrust adjustment and then torque the center one down and then that will be the beginning of the torque sequence the final torches so once we tighten these okay now we're actually going to loosen the rest of these and now and we'll make you watch me but I'll do another fork sequence including the center of thrust bearing everything is fully torqued now and I just wanted to show that once everything is torqued you should be able to fairly easily rotate the crankshaft within all the bearings the only force you're feeling is the shear of the pretty thick engine assembly lubricant so there's no binding if there are any binding you wouldn't be able to rotate it I also wanted to add that I like to use our TV and this rear main cap that's this is a possible oil leak path some people use black RTV some people use blue some people don't bother with it I prefer to use the blue RTV it's not required on the front side because this this area is within the timing cover so any minor leakage that comes out will be captured by the timing cover

Channel: fastfrankd

Views: 166,222

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Id: vIz2mMSavkA

Length: 7min 40sec (460 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 21 2017