STP #7: Saws, TIG Button, Brazing & More!

hey welcome back I don't know what month it is where you live but today is a crisp November morning it's had a nice breakfast with plenty of coffee which can only mean one thing quite the hodgepodge today but we'll take them one at a time big picture so you know what we're getting into here I got a tick button from Aaron over at 6061 calm not to be confused with 60-63 calm which offers a lot less copper and chromium we'll be taking a close look at this amp controller trying it out super excited if you don't know what it is sit tight along with I also got some more different silicon bronze wire filler rod smaller diameter to will do some testing with that some scrap yard fines not much quantity wise but good quality scores will address a few questions about the CNC lathe add-on for the router briefly play with that a bit more but first some quick thoughts on this Milwaukee drill it stinks I mean it's great but it stinks love-hate relationship I may have mentioned that compared to my old worn-out Bosch this thing packs quite the punch it's quite torquey in fact torquey enough that you need to be careful drilling steel if your bit binds this thing will tear your arm clean off which is great don't get me wrong I love a good disarming as much as the next guy if it weren't for two gigantic drawbacks first the Chuck seems to be absolute rubbish it says it's half-inch capacity and technically that's true you can fit half-inch stuff in there but it can't hold on to them anything over I don't know 3/8 of an inch 910 millimeters if you put any weight behind it forget about it it just slips I just can't get this Chuck to tighten enough the Bosch or is that thing gotten off to the bosch no joke I think if you over tighten the Chuck which was easy to do I swear you could drill undersized holes this thing nothing doing maybe it's fine if you're using those kit drills with the hex drive end these things I'm sure it holds onto these just fine but I've never seen a half-inch drill with a quarter inch hex drive on the back for wood I'm sure it's probably fine I wouldn't really know but for metal it's a nightmare it's the only one I have so I'm still using it but it's a nightmare second maybe this is still first since it's still a Chuck issue it absolutely tears up the shanks on my drills choose them to pieces I can't get the drills back in the index without a lick on the belt grinder no kidding this thing roughs the tail ends up so hard you could take your bid out after drilling the hole flip it end for end and use the back of the drill to deeper the hole you just made anyway swapping this chuck has been on my to-do list since I got this thing I do have a few drill trucks laying around before I break that out let's try to remove this and see how it's attached first things first there's always usually a left-handed screw down at the bottom of these things we'll have to remove looks like one of those snub nose Phillips and may have just said it out loud but again this is reverse thread so left hand thread righty loosey in this case it's usually Loctite at 2 so it'll need a little bit of oomph to get that out I just have to figure out the next step is I want to unscrew this what I've got is an allen wrench in the Chuck I'm going to give it a good wrap and with a hammer in this case it should be good old fashioned lefty loosey see if I could do this without hurting myself all right didn't even need to hammer let me see what I got is as chucks go don't judge me I don't immediately have a good replacement this is the one we just took off its factory Chuck I've got a few of these keyed chucks you see some of these are male threads some of these are female threads this is the one I remembered having this is a ROM Chuck ro hm I'm not a hundred percent sure if that name still means what it used to mean it fits it would fit but it's a 3/8 inch Chuck ten millimeters I'm kind of stuck on that larger capacity so that's a no-go this one doesn't fit but how cool would that be I do have this one 1/2 inch 13 millimeter import it does fit but it's a keyed Chuck I almost put that on there when I figured I could just take the Chuck off the Bosch and that's this one here 1/2 inch capacity the threads fit it's got the crushing power to turn drill bits into black holes unfortunately the size on the back here doesn't fit in the clutch housing you can see it's just a little too big hopefully you can see it's a little too big starts the bottom out in that recess I couldn't really use the clutch anymore so that's a bummer until I find something better I think I'm just gonna go with this one not the smoothest thing in the world but maybe it's just been laying around for too long I'm just gonna do the reverse to get this back together tighten that on with the allen wrench and then put the screw back in and maybe we'll give it a try and told you it's torquey I almost hit me in the face that wasn't a particularly enjoyable experience but the drill didn't slip in the Chuck with the old Chuck that would have taken me four times longer the other thing I wanted to try and I apologized my mic powered down the other thing I wanted to try was tapping taps of course are hardened as are the jaws in the Chuck so things just tend to be harder to get a grip on here the new chuck seems to be having no problem at all with the original chuck I'd be lucky if I could drive like a quarter-inch tap six millimeters I don't know other than the key I'm happy with how that's working I didn't stink truly grab it once or twice and try to loosen the bit like it were a keyless chuck but I think I'm gonna learn not to do that pretty fast I found a big overall of Bansal stock it's not exactly the right size for my saw but close enough this stuff you have to cut the length and weld yourself unless you're going through a lot of band saws making your own probably doesn't save all that much money I think a ready-made saw blade ballpark cost about two dollars a foot for a carbon steel this is carbon steel that's already welded and ready to go just throw it on your saw again that's just spitballing mind you it depends on the size and brand of the saw of course but carbon steel stock on the other hand cost about a dollar fifty a foot and you have to weld your own blades so you're saving about 50 cents a foot again depends on the brand and the quality and the size and all that stuff but a hundred foot of carbon steel bands all stock would probably set you back around 150 dollars this stuff cost me somewhere less than 50 cents a foot I mean I didn't unravel it and count it off but about 50 cents a foot truth of the matter in the past few months I've rigged up both my saws with tool steel blades and 42 blades they cost a little bit more but so far seem to be as sharp as the day I put them on there I wouldn't be surprised if they lasted three times longer I'll certainly keep you posted though if there are any surprises but this stuff works out it's good to have around and at the price it was hard to argue with this is 3/4 inch by I think 8 TPI so 8 teeth per inch I won't weld one up just now frankly I don't need it and I just recently made a video on that but thought I'd share by the way there's 10 fYI you can always use a smaller blade than your saw is rated for but you shouldn't go bigger even though bigger blade might actually fit your machine to keep blades in tension needs a heck of a lot of force and it's not hard to bend your bandsaw out of whack or wreck your bearings by trying to tension a blade that it wasn't designed to handle anyway what I'm really excited about are these six and seven inch mill saws I really want to try one out so let's head over to the machine I am so embarrassed may end up with egg on my face here I went ahead and I decapitated my mill only to discover I might not have the right to lling for these saws that's so like me so let me walk you through it here I can't use these saws with the over arm support they're just too big now I knew that and in fact that's why I bought these saws because as big as it looks it really only has I don't know about a two inch depth of cut the limitation I had with my other saws once built up with the overall support and enough clearance to get past these beams these supports although it gave me a very rigid setup I wouldn't get very much depth of cut no maybe three quarters of an inch an inch maybe depending on what the pack looks like that holds this saw on the problem is these saws have no key smoothbore my other milling cutters all have keys in the bore on top of that the only tooling I have with the correct ID to mount the saw is for shell mills these drive shell mills with these dog rings I'm not sure what they're called they engage on the back and then two dogs engage on the face mill I'm gonna try this with just some spacer rings but I don't know if I'll be able to get this tight enough to keep that saw from slipping and that should be in the right direction that load on the saw tends to tighten that bolt I'd be lying to you if I didn't tell you I was a little bit nervous its high-speed steel will be running it with coolant I'm gonna do a first pass of only about a quarter inch depth of cut five six millimeters somewhere in there just to see how to set up behaves then we'll come back and try four times at Sawle thickness here goes nothing all right that sounded pretty okay this all doesn't seem to be slipping I'm going to go to about three-quarter inch depth of cut I am very happy with that the cutting rate was a little on the conservative side a little respect for the spinning saw of death was probably in order what you're looking at is only about half the capacity of the saw it looks like it cut twice that depth I did this in two passes rule of thumb is four times saw thickness I believe but at the risk of stating the obvious you couldn't really do that with a standard end mill you'd have to do a million passes hope it didn't break and would probably be near impossible to even get to this depth let alone what the saw is capable of I'm gonna try to get you a shot of that surface finish from what I can see with my one good eye it's looking pretty good I managed to find five in total all with the same bore size I think this is the largest my mill will take at least the largest Arbor I currently have for the mill they're used they all still feel pretty sharp and from what that one just did looks like we got ourselves some new options on the mill here yippee-ki-yay mother who perk up from the online world monger store second to last but certainly not second to least I got a tip button I've always been intrigued by these but they will set you back a few bucks I mean actually they cost about the same as a foot controller depending which foot controller you buy and effectively do the same thing they offer remote amperage control while you weld except instead of using your foot you use your finger I mean I suppose you could use your foot on the tick button but that might lead to some hard to explain burns think of them like a gas pedal on the floor versus cruise control on the wheel now of course the other big perk of the tick button is you don't need to kick your foot pail around if you need to get around your work or your bench it's one less thing to worry about it's always on your torch you may have seen this magically appear and disappear on my torch in the last few videos and so far short story I'm really taking a liking to it here's what you get wejust here's what I got a button of course I've just rubber-banded it on but that's the button I think you can get sort of like a button hardcase you know with some curvature to match your torch size but I've come to liking it naked it's much more compact set up on the torch and there's the brain box I haven't opened this up but I'm pretty sure it has real brains in it a connector specific to my welder there's a wall wart that powers the whole thing and some other accessories replacement buttons there were some zip ties velcro that sort of stuff everything to get it installed on your machine truth be told my first impression of this thing right out of the box wasn't super sunny particularly uses a series of these small likely fragile connectors and wiring could have been dressed up maybe some overmolded strain relief or something like that although the cables are nice and small they do tend to stiffen up when they get cold I don't know the whole thing struck me is more of a prototype than say like official finished product however in use that has all proven to be a non-issue so far the way this thing is integrated into your system into the welder and the leads really takes all this delicate stuff off of the battlefield the brain box is attached to the welder there's plenty of wire there for strain relief and the button itself runs up inside of your torch cover and again can be strain relieved in the button is really the only thing that's exposed and it's got one of those Plasti Dip coatings on it the heart of the amp controller is what I assume is a pressure-sensitive button buried inside this rubber coating the button you see sticking up isn't it that's replaceable lug of rubber there is some sort of pressure sensor on the PCB that's doing all the work and bottom line the harder you push with your finger the more amps you get let me just get this all wired back in and we'll try some lay wire on some new silicon bronze and the original stuff I bought again mostly copper had 3% silicon in it and 1% Minnesota I think this new stuff has no Minnesota in it instead it's got a bunch of tin no clue whatsoever what the difference is but it's different I just have to be different it's also smaller too in fact might be too small for lay wire but let's try it out in order to hit my minimum order requirement I also picked up a CK Pyrex gas saver kit never used one of these before but just between me and you I've always been PI curious the only glass cup I've used before this is the Fupa cup from weld monger I mean it's nice it's kind of boutique uses a lot of gas for the odd jobs I do but it does get some serious coverage no doubt about that and speaking of Jody he's mentioned on more than one occasion that the clear cups can help with aging eyes not that there's anything wrong with my eye of course I can still see through a piece of quarter-inch steel plate at 20 yards but we'll give it a try see what if any difference it makes so it looks like this gas saver kit comes with a wedge collet instead of a traditional collet that's kind of nice and the cup itself looks more like a classic sized Cup it's just a little bit longer than a cup for a gas lens I've got some mild steel I'm gonna do a lap joint well together a set of each one with the larger original silicon bronze and one set with this thinner stuff stuff with the tin in it it's not super clean I hit the edges on a belt sander and wipe it down with some acetone torch will be set to 70 amps it should be fine for the large filler I'll just ease off on the button with a smaller filler and I think I'm going to try to pulse them both manually pulse them I don't know why this set up is giving off so much soot I don't think I contaminated that tungsten and grind the tip clean just in case that was a bit of a cold start to be honest I couldn't really see what I was doing with this glass cup on the stainless I had to turn my helmet settings down to darker shades when I lit up on this it was a little too dark for my liking I felt committed to it and then as I started figuring stuff out it arguably got a little bit better let's try it now with the other blend this stuff is just disappearing in a blink of an eye that looks and felt about the same as before you have to be a lot speedier with the thinner stuff but in terms of weld puddle and how it was wetting out seem to be about the same I'll try to just lay this in there and sort of force-feed it from my left-hand side see what happens you know it's really fun to do demoing my textbook welding skills immediately after everyone's been to fab tech I'd like to try this one last time this time with the built-in pulsar I'll still be using the tick button for amp control but I won't be trying to pulse it maybe I should be taking baby or steps okay that was a bit of a rough start but settled in pretty quick under the helmet it felt a little too hot so I ran the second pass I don't know maybe 75% of what the first side was just let up on the button a little bit whoever that was in the last video that commented and suggested lei wire + pulsing well you were totally right it looks a ton better to briefly build on what happened in the last silicon bronze video let's try to do dissimilar metals this time this is cast iron and this is stainless you're not going to see this while I weld but I'll flip it around let's let that cool down a minute we'll try to break it this next one I don't think is gonna work just because the materials are just so culturally different on my left we have aluminum and on my right we have aluminium see what happens okay I have no idea what that is but it's a lot more than what I was expecting to happen maybe we're not that different after all yeah we're different this was the stainless on cast iron Wow ended up in my trashcan maybe that's a sign now I'm no meteorologist but the way that broke is very suspect to me see how I just broke clean through the face of that fill it weld I remember which side it was I did first I think it was this side I bet there was a crack in that weld bead before we even hit it with a hammer and this side to go back and watch bending it backwards was a lot more ductile maybe this setup needs some preheat I mean that's kind of a big chunk of cast iron compared to this part so I'm pretty sure that was the first weld bead the pulse settings probably lead the bronze down just fine wetted it out no no maybe just cool too fast pulled itself apart learn something new every day okay I'm all over the place in this video let me wrap this up by giving you a quick summary of what I think so far of this setup first I'm not really feeling the whole Pyrex cup thing it's nice it does give off a ton of light and it's cool being able to see right into the weld puddle it'd be nice if it were just a bit shorter I much prefer to choke up on my torch but not a big deal the TIG button on the other hand feels like learning to ride a bike all over again I'm slowly getting used to it I am enjoying the thing I've never really liked torch mounted amp controls and that they seem to throw off my already bad aim like if you're clicking up or down on a button or trying to scroll a track wheel it tends to get my tungsten bobbing as it is I already have no trouble doing that on my own and don't need another thing to add to that though with the TIG button I've taken to holding it in the crook of my finger sorry I had to get this turned around in my other hand I was saying I've taken using it sort of in the crook of my finger in my grip somewhere instead of like an actual button this lets me keep a good solid grip on the torch but I can still exert pressure on the button to ramp or drop off the amps squeezing the button this way doesn't seem to compromise my control also it doesn't take very much pressure at all to ramp this up to full amps the machine has been set low for brazing 70 amps or so so I have a bit more resolution like zero to full pressure is no amps to 70 amps if my machine were maxed out the same pressure range would do 0 to 220 amps in the case of my welder in my limited experience maintained amp setting you want isn't difficult however getting a handle on the low end seems to be for me anyway I suppose it comes down and eating more time on it but that bottom end I don't know 25 or 30 percent of the range is tricky to hold on to and when you're tapering off at the end you really do need to let the button go it's quite sensitive and more often than not I end up just hanging out at 4 or 5 amps expecting the machine that shut off and it doesn't let me try to demonstrate that with a hundred and fifty amps I think 150 amps as much as this torch is rated for a light up go from 150 and try to drop it down as consistently as I can now I'm actually getting better at that I think here's what pulsing with the tick button might look like as I've probably mentioned a dozen times by now I need more time on it but I have a sneaking suspicion I won't be sending this back since I wrote this check in the beginning just a quick note on the turning attachment this video has gotten long it's probably pretty close to 24 minutes and 11 seconds by this point but surface finishes coming along when it comes to turning steel every little bit counts especially on smaller powered machines like this one so the fourth axis used to be mounted on the end there that's ideally where it would live I don't want to pin it in place bolt it down so it's nice and repeatable that gives me the maximum turning length and potentially the maximum number of tools on the z plate see this thing more often than not will be doing aluminum probably the occasional funny shaved piece of steel but mostly aluminum and I'm thinking ahead potentially to projects like maybe wood stocks or a couple of those leg lamps something where I deed the entire width of my router but for steel that's maybe not the ideal location that's probably the point of minimum rigidity so the two rails are here there's one here and one here with lead screw in the center the ball screws on Center so just that change and moving to a high speed steel tool bit it's starting to get a respectable finish I'm still not cutting off a quarter inch at a time but the finish is getting better the reason I had the braised carbide there in the first place was an attempt to break the chips on aluminum and then when I moved to steel I was just you know too excited I guess and and kept going no in its new position here I bet that braised carbide would do just fine anyway I think that's all I've got for this time thanks for watching

Channel: This Old Tony

Views: 502,231

Rating: 4.961205 out of 5

Keywords:

Id: PMv0noH_j4k

Length: 24min 13sec (1453 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 19 2018

Reddit Comments

[u/P_Barnez]

Those Milwaukee chucks are absolutely abysmal. I'm surprised Tony stuck with it this long.