Shoot'n The Poop #4 - Toys For TOT!

absolutely spectacular Thanksgiving this year here's hoping all viewers win just as well despite my kids having lost a couple of teeth and me losing a small carbide insert or two I'm hoping to find out in the next day my wife really outdid herself this time just have a look at what she stuffed our turkey with [Music] so I don't usually do these kind of videos I'm not really set up for it I think I'd need one of those plastic cafeteria lunch trays to really do this right but I'll be honest with you the video I am working on is taking a little bit longer than I expected busy at work and in the holidays etc but I think I got some interesting stuff and I thought maybe we could just go through one or two of the items and use it as an excuse to go off on a tangent or two I took advantage of the long holiday weekend to drive out and visit my local drug dealer scrapyard now I usually go for material these are some nice sized drops of aluminum that for me are extremely handy I don't have to buy gigantic pieces to support my hobby and occasionally the guy ends up with dumpsters full of tools now I can't really tell you how much this stuff cost because I don't really know myself my guy's got somewhat of a funny system where he I think just makes up a number when he sees me walk in the door that's what that particular day will cost me no matter what I walk out of there with again I'm not sure because I've never figured out his system this aluminum for example ended up costing me something ridiculous like 20 cents a pound and all the other stuff you see I also paid by the pound he seems to have different rates depending on what type of stuff it is and how big it is but it usually goes something like this he throws my junk on a giant scale rattles off some numbers like he's trying to do math in his head and then just invent some number in this case a hair over a couple hundred dollars got me the tooling you saw on the table plus quite a bit of material that I can't sort of get in the shot so nice big chunks of aluminum and a fair bit of plastic sheet stuck there nice sized pieces anywhere from 3/8 of an inch up to maybe 1/2 or 5/8 downside is I don't know what material this is he had no clue I think it might be PVC that's just sort of the vibe that I'm getting now I'm not telling you this to gloat or sound boastful because in his long game I think he's making out like a bandit although I may have gotten a good deal this time the next time it's quite probable that I get raked over the coals but the guy is smart enough and clever enough to keep me happy a certain percentage of the time to keep me going back anyway enough prattling on for now let's get into the meat of some of this junk now I didn't get this on this trip this was the previous trip but I just thought I'd share it this has become my favorite surface gauge and probably the heaviest and sturdiest one that I have ever seen I wish I had taken before pictures of this this is after I cleaned it up but this thing was hard to even make out what it was is literally a ball of rust now I can't be sure if you can tell from where you're standing but this is a handmade sort of custom-made surface gauge it has no makers mark on it but they did make a few of them I notice these particular parts are all stamped with the number two so they were all fitted and there are some amazing details like some hand files chamfers that wrap around very consistently on some of these contoured parts the actual clamp that they made doesn't work that well I think it might have somewhere in it or beware sensitive so I turned down one end and just used one of my steroid clamps the springs in the base were also I guess somewhat poorly designed or pushed too far to their limit so I had to replace those but now it works spectacularly and on a surface plate especially with like a tense indicator heft in the surface gauge is really something you want really works your advantage I'm considering breaking this thing down and doing some 3d CAD of it if you folks are interested let me know and I'll share that database again I think it's very well made some interesting problem-solving in here and the parts aren't all that complicated before I get into what I think is maybe some of the more interesting stuff that I'll show you what else I got I'm always on the lookout for big drills these are around the one-inch size with three more stay purrs on the back that's the biggest that my laid will take and these were never used I took the funky old wax paper off this thing myself there's still a couple of pieces stuck here and there these things have got to be I don't know 20 years old maybe still with the factory edge and the weird grease on them I got these in a few different sizes some other just random drill bit I got a few of these he didn't have a whole set where I couldn't find the whole set during my archaeological dig not exactly sure what these are for they have somewhat of a tight helix angle with really large flutes like large gullets it's split point and it looks like it's sharpened for steel but I don't know maybe they're for aluminum or soft material plastic maybe I could probably check in the Machinery's handbook but you can see there just a little bit different than sort of your classic drill bit now good selection of drills I think is probably one of the most convenient things you could add to your shop besides the chop saw these really reign supreme in material removal I mean we've all got our sets of boring bars and turning tools but they should really only take off the last I don't know 20 30 40 50 thousand depending on the situation I mean I'm making those numbers up but nothing's going to move material like a drill bit will in the lathe I mean I suppose a cut-off tool if you chop your work in half the drill bits fast material removal welcome to mystery tool episode number 562 see if you know what this is leave a comment down below now I'm going to guess most of you probably identified this in the opening shots as a threading tool I'm not exactly sure what the generic name of these things are I've always called them like an Armstrong or a Williams threading tool I've never used one of these I've always been intrigued by them so I was somewhat excited when I found one this one in particular happens to have what looks to be a little bit more adjustability than what I've usually seen and I'm not exactly sure what the previous toner was doing here but and again maybe it's me like I said I've never actually used one of these let me grab one of my threading tools and we'll look at how this thing works I mean with the advent of insert tooling for threading this sort of thing has become I mean obsolete I don't use threading inserts and in the home shop if this thing works out I think it might be pretty darn convenient so this is my threading tool this is the type of threading tool I've always used it's a high speed steel blank with the thread form ground into the end in the case of a hand ground tool you would take into account you know the thread form the relief and clearance angles and the helix angle of the thread that you want to cut if you need to cut a different thread you need to regrind the tip or grind a new tool of course if this wears or it breaks you grind it back a little bit more and go to town at your lathe the obvious benefit to this sort of thing is that you can grind any shape that you like for any thread that you're trying to cut or form for that matter and it's relatively cheap this tool is similar and that it's a high speed steel blank with the difference that it's circular with the 60-degree thread in this case already ground into it so as the tip wears you could simply grind a fresh face and rotate it a bit and you have a new 60-degree cutting tool as opposed to having reform that 60-degree angle every time and this of course you can just keep rotating it until you've run out of tool steel think of it sort of as the mechanical pencil of threading tools break the tip advance the lid this tool has a bit of a serrated kind of a knurled shaft that you can index and I don't know how many degree increments that might be 5 degrees maybe and lock it in place the other interesting thing about this variant is you can also change the helix angle so there's a screw on the back you loosen that and the head can sort of twist so if you're cutting a thread with a faster pitch you can sort of twist this a bit more and get the side relief on the trailing edge of your cutting tool to match without having to regrind the entire form like you would with something like this I suppose you could also do left-handed threads by tipping it the other way we're in this case you'd have a heck of a lot more material to remove now this still needs some cleaning I have loosened this locking screw in the back but I haven't been able to get this head to move I haven't played with it much it might also be splined but I'm going to give it a good soaking overnight and see if it loosens up a bit this was a fun find and I'm looking forward to taking it for a ride the next item was excited to find were these dumont minuteman keyway brooches now these are a top of a line keyway brooches made in greenfield massachusetts by the Dumont corporation I couldn't quite get the metal cap off but they came out easy enough out the bottom I really love this buy line here by the way I don't know if you can read it but it says 4 pulleys gears and kindred parts whatever happened to that eloquence of old these happen to be metric brooches this is six eight and a ten and they're also the first Roach I've ever come to own if you shop around for hobbyists these things are prohibitively expensive I mean I don't know your hobby budget is like but these brooches especially these metric variants I think are easy 100 $150 piece these things don't feel like the sharpest brooches in the world but I think they still have some good life in them I've always cut my key ways in the shaper at least since I got the shaver before that it was all hand filing but when I come across six eight or ten millimeter key seats or key ways I look forward to using these things now I didn't get the or I couldn't find the bushings and the shims that go along with these mr. Pete's got a good video on cutting a keyway with a broach you basically feed these through the hole and keep sawing your way through to the final depth of the keyway the other thing I don't have is an arbor press I've got a hydraulic press I'll be honest I'm a bit nervous about pushing these through on that you can't really feel much through the hydraulics but I think if I take it slow I should be able to cut a six eight into ten keyway without breaking the broach or killing myself I knock on wood but I don't have any around the next thing I found that gummy all hot and bothered is this metric set of gauge blocks now I'm not sure what brand these are I meant to google them before starting this video the guy at the yard told me they were Russian or Ukrainian if anybody recognizes that logo I love to hear where they're from he was honest enough to tell me that they weren't you know a super high grade of precision though I don't have a certificate and there's no marking on the box as to what grade they actually are some of them do have a bit of surface rust anat on the gauge faces a couple that I've tried don't actually ring together but they might just need a really good cleaning this is very much a convenience item for me whenever I've had to do a metric project before I just used my Imperial gauge blocks and did the conversion but I'll be honest I always wanted a set and given the price it was hard to turn these things down and again for the class of work that I do not knowing the origin or the grade isn't really that big of an issue for me now if you're just getting into machining buying gauge blocks and a surface plate and a surface gauge and everything sort of that this can of warm entails is sometimes difficult to justify I mean maybe I'm projecting my own initial insecurities on everyone when I was starting out whenever I got a bit of cash together I really wanted just tooling and machines and generally stuff that made noise unless you drop your gauge blocks or your surface plate they usually don't make a lot of noise gauge blocks in a surface plate are really the only way that you'll know that the parts you make will fit when you send them out into the rest of the world if you're not sending parts out into the world they're still very very handy for measurement and verification and it always depends on the work that you're doing but blocks along with the surface plate are just so versatile that I could imagine now being without them they're almost fundamental to the Hobby once you've gotten past that initial rush of just being able to cut metal into funny shapes now they are expensive but if keep your eye on like an eBay or Craigslist you could usually find a decent set at a reasonable price maybe one day we'll do a video on gauge blocks and surface plate using these to take measurements you otherwise couldn't get to with traditional calipers or micrometer x' I haven't thought this completely through but I don't think there's any measurement you could take with a caliper or micrometer that you couldn't take with gauge blocks a service plate and an indicator though there are certainly measurements you can take with these that you can't with the other tools now this next item isn't really that much to write home about but I bought it so I thought I'd share this is a micrometer stand and I think really would only come in convenient if you only had two hands I've never really needed one of these because I have three usually only see two because one of them is holding the camera while I'm making these videos but I came across it I figured why not now although I'm sure you can do a lot with a micrometer stand like hold your sandwich or your cards while you're eating your sandwich but more often than not you'd use it to hold a micrometer now I don't know what brand this is but it appears to be very well made it's very heavy it's cast iron and the clamping system doesn't you know seem to have a lot of wear and tear in it granted these things aren't really meant to be c-clamps you put your micrometer in about I may add some felt pads perhaps and there's a bit of adjustment for how you'd like to hold the micrometer I don't really want to make a big mess but I think this will clean up pretty nice at any rate it looks like there's a good micrometer stand under there somewhere and it's used to just free up a hand to help you take some measurements sure it probably helps a little bit too if you're doing a lot of repetitive measurements you're not holding on to your mic and heating it up and all that kind of weird stuff but mostly it's for making micrometer measurements a little more convenient I think we've all been there with that awkward part and trying to balance it on one knee and in your mouth and hold in the micrometer and trying to get that feel just right nothing groundbreaking but there you have it last up I've got a few items here that may be anticlimactic for most but I'm man enough to admit that when I stumbled across these i tink 'old just a little bit these are Arbor spacers and as you can see there's still in their original packaging let me clean these up just a little bit and we'll see what they're for alright so that was thoroughly disgusting there's a cleaning 20 year old earwax out of someone else's a year who amongst us can't relate to that and they're necessary for installing milling cutters on milling arbors I had sort of resigned to having to make these myself kind of as I needed them but you can imagine just how tedious something like that might be now you can buy these there I guess not that expensive I don't know maybe something like this I'm sure is less than $10 $5 maybe and these small ones might be a I don't know 20 dollars for a pack of 10 the problem is you never really know which one you're going to need if you're installing just one cutter it's not that big of a deal because no matter where it really ends up in your stack up as long as it's inside your wife stroke you can adjust its position on the milling machine let's say you want to build a stack of a few different cutters it's not the right cutter for this Arbor if you imagine having to build this stack and put the right size cutter in the right direction you'll end up needing just the right size and combination a spacer is to set the distance between the features you hope to mill and keep your part in spec you can move the whole gang on your machine but this spacing is set by the Arbor spacers and obviously the more of these you gang up the number of spacers you need to have at the ready grows exponentially again I'm very new to horizontal milling but that's really just the math of the situation that said I thought we could use this as an excuse to answer a question I get quite a lot from the overarm support video of why anyone in the right mind would choose to work with a horizontal milling machine when you could do the same thing with the vertical so by way of some hand waving analogy let's try to compare the two horizontal milling versus vertical milling sort of in a touchy-feely way but see if you can't keep up what I've done is set up the same size cutter a 16 millimeter or 5/8 on both arbors on a horizontal milling Arbour and in a vertical Arbor in a collet Chuck you probably already get the point considering how wimpy this 16 millimeter cutting setup looks like compared to this 16 millimeter cutting setup well let's keep going given the same horsepower the same machine comparing apples to apples here if we install the vertical tool in the machine spindle you can see we have quite a bit in this case of extension out of the machine we have some deflection to worry about not only are we far away from the structure of the machine in this case we also are using a long end mill and here you'd either push your work around or push the machine around moving your cutter through the work fighting against forces at the tip in this case you might not be able to use all of your machines for power because you're limited by the deflection and the chip clearing and all that kind of stuff of the particular vertical set up if now we consider a horizontal setup where both in the Machine taper and supported on the end I now have a lot more rigid setup to try to use as much of the available machine horsepower as I can I can really push through some work with this and of course if you can set up your horizontal harbor with enough cutters of the right size and diameter along with the spacers you may be able to do a good amount of the work to get to your finished part in one or two passes whereas with the vertical you'll likely be doing a lot of tool changes setups to get the next tool in position that you would have sort of just cooked into the setup when setting up the horizontal Arbor the downside of course is convenience I could switch through 15 tools and a vertical milling setup by the time I even change one tool out on the horizontal and that's probably why you don't see a lot of CNC horizontal mills around these days but for a home shop guy that's not in a hurry horizontal machining is kind of fun to be honest I mean it's it's a bit of a mix up from the classic vertical machining the other nice thing is I can get these cutters a lot cheaper than I can get these cutters I buy the horizontal milling cutters by the pound not a lot of people are doing these so a lot of this old stock is being cleared out the scrap guy recognizes that a lot more people want to buy end mills than they do milling cutters so just for poops and giggles I thought we could set this arbor up in the middle since we didn't get much chance to talk about it in the over arm support video I found that original piece of material that I cut and I thought we could try something a little bit more aggressive up on the top here come down I'll try about an inch depth of cut because that's as much reach as that cutter has again that's a 16 millimeter wide cutter 5/8 of an inch about it's 4 inches in diameter and it's a 20 stagger tooth cutter 20 teeth and the teeth are staggered on that arbor size the clearance is a little bit over an inch I'm going to try to use all of that I'm going to be taking a conventional cut what that means is that I'll be sort of scooping the material up and out of this block as I feed the cutter into it they could certainly climb cut but my confidence level isn't quite there yet with an end mill if something goes south it's usually the first thing to give up the ghost your endo might break your work might move or usually both now this is pure speculation on my part because I haven't done a lot of this stuff but just have a look at this horizontal setup all of the benefits of horizontal milling is what makes climb cutting scary for me just imagine this cutter coming in for a climb cut it's the material and something goes wrong best case scenario is that cutter shatters and gets out of the way but in my mind the cutter doesn't break it climbs its way up it'll work everything jams and I end up with who knows what a bent spindle broken head on the machine just few love nightmares all right so I think I'm all set up here I met at one inch depth of cut 25 millimeters I'll be running the cutter at 100 rpm at a feed of about 18 millimeters per minute this machine is metric that's 7/10 of an inch per minute it's a high speed steel cutter so I'm going to throw some coolant on there with the help of my moroccan friend [Music] not sure how well you can see in there but that's an absolutely spectacular cut there really aren't even there's a little bit of a burr this thing looks like maybe 110 millimeters divided by 18 millimeters five five-and-a-half minutes single pass it did start to give me some lip about halfway through that cut something I guess might be loose in the setup I'm not sure there was a little bit of a high-pitched squeal every now and again but the chips don't look bad I suppose they could have been a little bit better I might have been able to go a little more aggressive on the feed rate by the sounds of it I'm nowhere near the limit of the horsepower of the machine I don't know all in all always impresses me so that just about does it for this episode if you were curious here's how these tools cleaned up the micrometer stand came out looking pretty sharp and the threading tool freed up it turns out the head is on a taper it's taken up by essentially like a captive drawbar so hopefully that gives you a better idea of how the head is adjusted for the helix angle of the thread you'd like to cut this is what I hope to show you earlier it also looked like someone took a bite out of the head of the tool trying to sharpen the cutter while it was still in the shank that's unfortunate anyway let me know you folks think of these kind of videos and as always I appreciate the company [Music]

Channel: This Old Tony

Views: 582,700

Rating: 4.9714794 out of 5

Keywords: horizontal milling, arbor spacers, adjustable threading tool, armstrong threading tool, williams threading tool, micrometer stand, tools, machining tools, shop tools, shop talk, stop reading my tags

Id: gZTUFev08H0

Length: 25min 18sec (1518 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 01 2016