Starting a DARK ANGELS Army | From Box to Battlefield

hey yo ladies and gents Jam here from jams mini mods and in today's video I'm going to take this pile of sprues and turn it into a 500 points Dark Angels Army now I'm going to try and kick this out so it can be run as a boarding Patrol or just a regular combat Patrol as well and I'll be going through pretty much every step that I go through through building a bit of green stuff work painting all that kind of stuff basing of course so now speaking about basing this is probably where we need to start because we need our models to stand on something right and I wanted something that would really fit in with Dark Angels but I also wanted it to be something that could be a cathedral or ruined Planet surface but also could maybe be just broken flagstone on a Gothic spaceship kind of thing well actually spoilers towards the end of the video I decided to put leaves on the base which doesn't quite go with the gothic spaceship Vibe but anyway products you're gonna need for this is a sheet of plastic card or whatever it's called in different countries and stuff like that you're gonna need some cork obviously your usual plastic and super glue depending on which part you're gluing and just a light sprinkling of human skulls you know what wouldn't be Gothic 40K without some skulls lying about now some of my bases not all are going to have some cork on them just to lift them up a little bit maybe just like the the sergeants and stuff like that so what you want to do is break off your cork you know tear it up into the rough shape that you want use a bit of super glue to glue it onto the base and once it's on there and it's all dried up you get your hobby knife and just try and cut the hanging off bits to be nice and flush with the base obviously be careful not to cut yourself but it's a really relatively easy process now that I've got the main structure of my base style it's time to get those flag Stones down now this is a pretty time consuming way to go about things they might be easier ways to do stuff like this but I like that I've got a little bit more control over it when I'm just carving things out individually by hand now usually you'll probably want a metal ruler or something like that while cutting the strips off you know just measuring it and all that but I found these little Spruce Tabby things from Forge World with the exact width that I wanted so I basically just use that as my measuring stick I just cut out little strips the same size of that thing sprue gate or whatever it's called now if you want you can cut every single Stow now to be the exact same size but I'm gonna get them mostly the same size but I don't mind having a few that are a bit bigger you know sometimes when you see big flags Stone floors and stuff like that there's some variants there they're not all exactly the same sometimes which also means that I don't already have to measure anything else or make things much quicker now that you got your slab Stone things sliced out you actually want to make them look like they're flagstone so what you want to do is you want to start slicing up the edges all the way around you preferably want to do it at a bit of a tapered Edge if you know what I mean just make a bit of a slope down kind of cut and you don't want to be too regular with it you just kind of go a bit random slicing and dicing in places later on I'll also cut out big chunks and stuff like that make make it look like the flagstone is cracked and split open and stuff like that you really can go quite wild with this now for the top of the stone you obviously don't want it to be super smooth either so I was going to get the point of my hobby knife and just kind of dragged across the top in little little chips getting scraping out tiny little bits of the plastic just to rough it up a bit and here's a quick example of me just carving out bigger chunks where the stones split open and stuff like that a bit more and just remember when you gluing plastic card down to Cork or anything like that you want to use super glue but if you're doing straight onto the base you can actually use plastic glue and obviously that means you can use plastic glue to glue your models to the plastic card as well now you can see I get the kind of rough shape down you got a lot of overhanging bits and stuff don't worry I won't be leaving it like that what I will do at this point is I'll get my clippers and just start snipping around the edge of the base getting all those overhanging bits of plastic card off and then later I'll come in with my hobby knife to get a bit more smoother cut and also you can use files as well like you know um nail files because they are quite soft and they're quite easy to work around bases like this and I will just run that across the edges at some point now one last thing I like to do to the base is to get rid of that smoothness a little bit more is once again I'll hit the top of the model with that nail file or if you want to use little Dremel bits like this you can run them along but to be honest the nail file probably quicker and easier now not to drag this video too long just about basing I'll slap my skulls down in random areas throughout all my bases this is just from The Citadel skull kit and then if you want you can get some small Pebbles and stuff and super glue them down in places to give a bit more like height differences in certain areas and then you've got two options you can either use texture paste or just the Classic sand now at first I was kind of using texture paste here sprinkling a bit of sand on top of that just to get a bit more grit in there but in the end I actually found these smaller models and stuff like that it was actually easier to blob down some super glue and then just move it around with a toothpick into all the nooks and crannies and then just sprinkle some sand on top and it's a much stronger Bond as well and here are all my models built and based like I said before I think the basing takes a bit of time but definitely well worth it now next up as you've seen my model built but they haven't really got a dark angel flavor just yet now luckily throughout the primaries line there's a lot of like Gothic Trinkets and stuff like that but I did also pick up the Dark Angels Raven Wing upgrades through and the Dark Angels veterans sprue now some of this was actually given to me by my local Friendly game store owner so I really appreciate that that helped me out a lot now I'm not going to go too over the top with the standard troops kind of guys I'm just gonna throw a little trinket here and there if you look at any Dark Angels artwork or even just like the GW models and normally the the usual Dark Angel troops aren't overly kitted out it's normally the sergeants and the hqs and the deathwings they have all the robes and everything like that and also once again easier to paint now I'm just gonna Montage my way through all these little trinkets [Music] now for the blade guard veterans because they are Deathwing I was thinking of giving them all hoods but then I was looking at the actual Deathwing Terminators and none of them have hoods except for the knights so I figure care doesn't really make sense for these guys to all be hooded up and I mean it would look cool if you had all the bits lying around and why not but I just did it for the leader of this group now moving on to the leader of this Army which will be an interrogated chaplain which for me when I think of Dark Angels I think of chaplains and especially interrogated chaplains so I had to have one leading this Force but I couldn't just give him the standard GW Crozier so just didn't quite look right for Dark Angels had to make something myself so this cruises is from the indominus chaplain but I'm gonna actually slice the top of this off and just use the the hand and the handle I guess and to replace that I'm going to be using this Dark Angels icon I think it was from the Raven Wing upgrades Brew but just that thing alone was kind of boring and didn't look crazy as enough for me so cut the skull Halo thing off the original croziest very slowly and neatly trying to get that off though and that's going to glue nicely on top of the Dark Angels iconography craziest that I've made now but before I get on to that obviously I need quite a sturdy bond between the handle and the crozier's head so I'm going to drill a hole on either side and I'm going to super glue a bit of paper clip in there to pin them two bits together with super glue and all that of course now for the body of the interrogated Chaplin I'm using the primaries Captain model and the reason why I'm using this model is because I found this bit of artwork online and I thought it was really cool kind of fits an interrogative Vibe and also the captain models pose pretty much fits this perfectly and it's got that little robe loincloth things as well that match quite well but because I'm going to be green stuffing robes onto the sky one of the first things I need to do is slice off his chest Aquila and the rope and everything get the majority off with my hobby knife then I'll come in with a file just to smoother it doesn't need to be perfect once again because there's gonna be green stuff over later now obviously I needed a pointing hand which luckily I have some lying around I think this kit actually originally comes with one anyway but I couldn't find it so I got this one from some easy build kit probably and I just well stick that on there everything fits pretty perfect now next step I was gonna green stuff a hood on top of the chaplain on the bike head that I had lying around but then I discovered I had this OG primaries Chaplin helmet lying around as well so this pretty much fit perfectly it's got the hood on there the skull face everything so perfect for a dark angel Chaplet now I'm going to leave the model there for now and I'm going to start on doing some like the robes and everything but one of the main reasons why I wanted to do a dark angel zombies because I wanted to practice sculpting cloth and not only sculpting cloth I wanted to try using green putt or whatever people want to call it I pretty much always just use green stuff and I'm quite used to it I wanted to step out of my comfort zone a little bit see how this stuff works now I've used it before for space wolfy things and I've done a lot of space Wolf stuff but cloth is a whole different thing it has to be very neat you have to get the flow and everything that's why I want to practice it so anyway green putt is basically you mix up your green stuff as you normally would and you do the exact same stuff for milliputt and then once those two different products are mixed then you smash them together mix them together and it creates a whole new substance that's much harder than green stuff but also better to blend in and smooth different bits together than green stuff as well so but not as brittle and stuff as Mini Putt it's kind of like a good middle ground it's perfect for cloth and stuff like that but to be honest I think my green stuff and possibly a milliped might be quite old at this point they were quite tough to mix and didn't really end up in a great kind of place there but like I said I was just trying to trying to do something new here but I'm going to be practicing on one of my sergeants before I go to the interrogated chaplain so I roll my green stuff out into a bowl then I rolling pin it out with a paintbrush trying to keep it nice and smooth because got to remember this is cloth then I just start slicing like the bits out into rough sizes and shapes that I need and as you can see I got the loincloth bit to the length and size that I wanted once it starts to set a little bit more I can move it around and get into the position I want as well as for the top part of the chest I just kind of make another rectangular shape but then I cut a triangle out of the top because they're kind of making that v-neck shape and I'll eventually just work that into all the places around the neck and stuff to get it to fit that's the nice thing about green putty is it's very smooth and you can shape it very easily as for the tools I'm using I'm using a mix between just your classical wet toothpick remember to keep everything damp as well our silicon color Shapers these things are amazing for any sort of sculpting work and I do have some wax Carvers which I don't really use too much I don't like how big they are and how hard the steel is but they are really good for smoothing things out and getting sharp edges though now what I'm doing here is I'm using my color Shapers or my toothpicks to kind of press in detail so we're going to get some folds around the neck and maybe around the belt areas it looks like it's tucked in there this is what I would usually do just to get some shape into my green stuff or something like that which works perfectly for pieces like this on the chest and all that but one of the main reasons why you would use green putt instead of just green stuff is because once the green pot is cured and hard you can actually layer more green pen on top and you can blend it in really really smoothly much more than you can do with green stuff so what I do now is I get more green putt onto the loin cloth bit there and I roll up little sausages and I've placed them down and now these are going to get blended into actors kind of Ripples and movement in the fabric for some reason I don't really have footage of me doing it on the line Cloud so I'll show it getting done on the interrogated Chaplet and as you can see there I've got all my little sausagey rope boots down where I think there should be ripples in this cloth then I just start pushing down the edges it's quite kind of roughly of each sausage so we kind of get the rough shape of shape of where these Ruffles will be going now I was keeping my tools wet between using the silicone Shapers and a wet paintbrush that is keep on smoothing the edges out smoothing the Green Oh green putt I should say not green stuff until I just get it to a point that I like I wanted to get it quite smooth but in hindsight I never like using oils like Vaseline or linseed oil or anything like that on my models for sculpting cause I always think like I gotta clean it down and stuff but because this is actually a trial for me as well I've kind of realized if I'm going to be doing fancy HQ models like this in the future I'm just going to use oils because I feel like I could have got a much better and smoother Blends out of this if I just had that on the model instead of just using water because I have found as water the green pad can get kind of brittle and start falling apart a little bit which ended up making the class look a little bit dodgy in some areas so learn from my mistakes now with the green part kind of smoothed out to where I wanted like say just using a wet paintbrush at the end there just to really get it smoothed now it's time to stick the rest of the bits together and a side note green putt's really really easy to sand down and cut as well so if anything gets in your way you can just kind of sand it down so it doesn't now the backpack I'm going to be sticking on this guys from that first born chaplain I showed at the beginning of the video how these little building instructions thing there I felt like it was very very over the top and Gothic and fit that artwork quite well as well the next step I have to do is get an arm that was it kind of in the position that I wanted and I just glued that on with a shoulder pad that's actually from the new Horus heresy plastic marines that just came out well I'd say just quite a while ago now I didn't want anything too fancy for the Chaplet I thought something a bit more like rugged and brutal kind of fits the whole interrogator thing and then I just take the crochets I made earlier onto the arm and just got it into the position that I needed and with that with the whole main bit of this model down I do slap a couple more dark Angeli accessories around the belt there just to bulk him out make him look a little bit more fancy and I think he turned out pretty decently like I said it's my one of my biggest kind of attempts at using green Putt in this kind of way is definitely stuff I can improve on 100 for next time I uh that's kind of the reason why I did this but while I've got some leftover green pad lying around I'm actually gonna make some really quick and easy feathers because that's kind of a recurring theme throughout Dark Angels as well like I said these can be very rudimentary quick ones so I'm just going to cut out a very rough feather shape here very similar to the ones that you got in the Dark Vengeance box set on the Deathwing Terminators and stuff they're really triangular and stuff like that and all I did was I used my hobby knife to press down a line down the middle of the feather and then just small the lines down at an angle down each side of that line as well to kind of make it look like the the feathery bits throughout like I said very very quick and easy and I'm just going to slap them onto various models and you'll see that later now with everything built and customized and accessorized it's time to paint now weirdly by kind of accident I've got all three different colors of the Dark Angel so if you don't know Dark Angels have different Wings they've got the death Wing The Raven wing and then you just got your normal tactical Marines now your normal standard Army they're dark green Deathwing or a bone color and Raven Wing are black so I've obviously got the death Wing I've got the normal guys and my chaplain's gonna be black anyway so I've kind of just got all of them here now I'll be using an airbrush to Prime but to be honest you can just go outside and use the rattle account there's no problem if anything it'll probably be quicker because I ended up having quite a few issues with my brush I haven't used it in quite a long time so yeah I think of some of the paint ends up getting on a bit thicker than it should have but just briefly for the black and the dark green I just Prime them in black and with the Dreadwing dread wing and that's Horus heresy I think the death of wing are primes in black but then I give a nice xenophile of a really light gray primer all over because they're going to be a lighter color I will also be airbrushing the main colors down so I'll be using caliban green for the base of my green dudes now again I'm using an airbrush but you can just use a normal paint brush for basing your models I know a lot of people seen as the same airbrush in a video they just kind of check out but literally it just speeds me up it doesn't do anything different that I couldn't do with a paintbrush so I just pour some color bang Green in there and just in some airbrush thinner as well and I will very quickly give away a nice smooth base coat now for the death Wing that kind of bone color I know from experience from my death guard armings there are similar color scheme to this that zandry dust and his chapty bone have absolutely terrible coverage I hate painting these colors especially with a brush they're a little bit easier than airbrush so I'm actually going to go xandry dust first just because it's a darker base coating paint spray that all over and then I'm just going to do the exact same process again with u-shapti bone that's going to be my main base coat at the end though now on to actual painting part I'm going to be going through this pretty quickly so every color I use on this model or maybe two different models I'll be showing throughout this thing I'll be using the same colors throughout the entire Army so I'll be using the same bones and blues and everything throughout and one thing I will also be doing is I always try and paint every single model to this exact same standard I want every guy to be like to the best of my abilities and because of that I never get anything done so I'm going to be cutting a bit of Corners with this Army I'm gonna skip some steps for now because there's nobody saying you can never come back to an army I can get this thing done go have some games I can actually have it out there and play and then when I've got free time we'll add on some extra highlights some Blends whatever I want to do if and when I want to do it you know what they say perfect is the enemy of good let's just get this done but in saying that I start off with a very tedious process and that's pin watching or recess shading so I just get a null oil for the green and I'll just slowly be putting shade into all the recesses and stuff like that I did try and wash the entire model for one but then I just felt like it was a bit too dark and a bit too dirty and stuff like that and you'll have to go over and re-highlight with caliban green again so I found it was just quicker to do recess shading for these but to be honest that's another step you could skip because the Green's quite dark after you've done highlights you probably won't even notice it anyway now for any robes and cloths like that I'll be doing the exact same color scheme for the death ring Thomas I'll be doing Xander dust to start with going up to you shabty bone and when that's all done I'll be doing an all-over wash of Serafin sepia and while I've got this elephant sepia out and waiting for it to dry on that bottle I also do a pin wash or once again recessed shade oh serif in sepio all throughout the death Wing as well but yeah going back to my green Wing guy I'll be layering a shabty bone again just leaving the recesses shaded with that Surf and sepio now the last step for the robes and also for the death Wing themselves I'll be highlighting with screaming skull now this is actually a really dried up pot so it made a little bit difficult for me because I need to go out and buy some more but just your standard kind of edge highlighting stuff with this now moving on to any whites throughout the Army I'll be doing an initial base coat with celestra gray and then I'll be going over with also engrave that's how you pronounce it just to get all that white popping a little bit more and then I'll be shading all my whites preferably recessed shading if I can in certain areas with known oil later we'll come back to the whites and highlight with a bit of more of a pure white but for now let's move on to the brown details and that'll be all the the bags and ropes and straps like that now I want to go for a reddish brown because you know green and red look good together so I'm trying to go for reddish Hues where I can so I'm going to go for Doom bull brown as my base coat throughout and once all the brown bits are base coated I'll come back and wash them all later when I do all the washes together with agrax and non-oiled and all those kind of things but I wanted to paint the tips of my feathers in Black so I've just used absent black for that making sure I've painted it in the same kind of direction as the angle of the feathery bits and like I said earlier I'll come back to the whites now and I'll use corex white in this case to Edge highlight the bits of the feathers the icons any sort of little white bits dangling on our models Now quickly switching over to a different model because this guy doesn't have a gun all my gun casings throughout the entire Army are going to be red so I'm going to start off with mephistan red throughout well not just gun casings I should say it's all weapons rarely so chainsaws will be red and parts of the blade God veteran Shields will be red as well like so I'm using the same colors throughout the entire Army where I can to really title together now usually you want to be kind of as neat as you can but for example on the shield here if I do go over onto the edges later I'll be putting Gold and Bob Ross over there anyway so that will clean it up oh and I also use Abbott and black for the Under Armor bits between the joints and I gotta say when it comes to painting Marines I absolutely hate doing these joint Under Armor bits and backpacks I just hate doing both of those but now moving on to the metallics I'm only going to be going for two different types silver and gold now initially I started off as Balthazar gold as the baseball my goldiness but I ended up switching over to war block bronze I think it's called to have a bit more of a bronze tone throughout but lead belch will be used throughout the whole entire Army so there'll be bits like the hammer head on this guy all the swords some of the trinkets some of the chains all that kind of stuff through out the entire Army bits of the hell Blaster guns as well now moving on to one of my favorite paints weirdly enough and that's a rack off flash now if you want any pale caucasiany skin tones you can use crackle Flesh on faces I will do that on a few but I also use it on all my Purity seals but now we're on to washing phase this is one of my favorite stages I hate base coating models but that's all done now now I'm going to be using non-oil agrax Earth Day earthshade and serifen sepia throughout so obviously the null oil will be going on all the silver bits and also on the Browns whereas the agrax Earth shade will be going on on why Golds and brasses and the Reds throughout the Army as well oh and of course they're going to go on the Purity seals racco's flash really changes on depending on the wash that you use and speaking of that I use rikling flesh shade throughout the entire Army for every different flesh tone that I have now usually in my a painting process I'll get my base coats done my wash is done and particularly with Space Marines then I'll go back with my original Power Armor color which will be colorband green in this case or you sharp two bone for the death Wing abigin black for the chaplain whatever it is and I'll just clean up the whole model make sure any places where I over spilled different colors and stuff like that I'll clean it all up and once it's all cleaned up then it's Edge highlighting time now my first color is warp Stone glow I'm going to Edge highlight the entire model with this color now and once that painstaking process is done and move on to mood green now I'm gonna Edge highlight this but I'm going to stick to the upper parts of the models just get the the parts that will hit the light the most but to be perfectly honest if you want to save time you could just go straight to mood green and just highlight that everywhere instead that's probably what I would do in the future and next up I used dawn stone to highlight the Under Armor now moving on to the brown once again trying to keep the reddish tone to it I'm going to be using was Daka red and Squig orange to highlight now there was dark I'll use as more of a quite a thick Edge highlight kind of vibe to it whereas the Squig orange will just be touching Corners adding little scratches and stuff like that throughout now when I was highlighting the silver for this model I think I went a bit too bright and shiny for my personal taste so for the rest of the army I was just going to use storm host silver just to Edge highlight and leave the original dark steel beneath it without layering a shiny silver over everything now with pretty much everything done for the green dudes moving on to the blade guard veterans because they're a little bit different like I said before I'll be using wall plug bronze for pretty much everything so the shield rims the middle Shield bit lion Halo all the little trinkety bits throughout the realm is just going to be warlock bronze now we'll come back to highlighting the bronze in a second but next thing I wanted to do was plasma glow on all my hell blasters and also the sergeant on my play God veterans now usually you can maybe try use your airbrush if you go on to kind of get a nice OSL spray effect going on but I thought quick and easy just using a dry brush so I painted the coils white first of all get a nice shiny base coat of that going on then I get a tiny makeup brush you definitely want to get some makeup brushes if you're doing any sort of dry brushing they are perfect for it and I'm going to start off with my darkest color so I just selected a random well selection of Blues so I'll start with mccrag blue here and I gave a bit more of a wider overall dry brush like I say on the casing everything's has got that glow going on and then once that was done I moved on to a late talk blue I believe that's how you pronounce that gw's name is always a bit funky and I just did a bit of a smaller dry brush that time so even the darker and slowly going into the middle with a lighter blue and then finally my last highlighted on is blue horror and I just try to keep that to the center of the coils as much as I could just the tops and the corners there just so it looks like the it's going from the darker light so it's kind of faded out into the darkness and it's lighter at the center as you can see here like I've said before keeping the same colors on this blade Guard veteran Deathwing guys I'm going to be Edge highlighting all the Rama with screaming skull now with that pretty much all the models are done like I said uh some steps have been skipped but as long as tabletop ready maybe slightly above like I said we can come back to it another time but now we're going to paint the bases and for that I'm going to be using mechanicus standard gray as the base coat for this and I will be painting this everywhere we're not going to use a different color on this base here because like I said I want this to be a flagstone concrete kind of place that's just been pulverized so everything's kind of the same color throughout obviously the skulls later will paint differently but yeah but once the base is done I'm going to get out agrax Earth shade now in hindsight if I wanted to keep it a bit more Stony maybe going for non-oil would have been a better idea and once that's dried it's down to dry brushing again so I'm going to use dawn stone as my overall dry brush so I'm going to try hit everywhere with this and then once I've done that I'll move on to administratum greatest to kind of get the main points a bit more highlighted up and when it comes to dry brushing bases with your model on them I never really worry too much about hitting the feet and stuff like that with the gray because I actually find it ties the model into the base a lot better looks like dust has kicked up and stuff like that obviously don't you don't want to go too over the top but those accidental hits there they work really really nicely there so that's what I always do like that but now with the model done I felt like it was maybe a bit too see me throughout so I've kept a stone color pretty much the same but what I've done is I've gone in with some more AG racks between the cracks of the stones I've put another layer just so the stones will pop out more but I've also put a light layer of agrax throughout the the sand and that so that's a different tone where it's been crushed up compared to the flagstone they're still intact and because I went for that kind of brownish tone and everything and I thought the bass could have done with a bit more I just thought you know what screw it I'm gonna go for leaves I don't know maybe they've got trees on Dark Angel spaceships I don't know but I thought it would help the model pop so I've got these Spring Leaves From green stuff world but I think you can buy them from anywhere really I can't remember what the these leaves are actually called you can just find them in nature as well if you have those kinds of trees around but buying a part of this is more than you'll ever need really now if you wanted you could just chuckle a bit of PVA glue here and there and just sprinkle the leaves on and just let it do what it wants to do but because I'm apparently a psychopath and I have to make my life difficult I'm going to individually glue leaves down where I want them so I'm going to be using little tiny little Blobs of super glue just to get the leaves where I want them now I do want some sections of different bases to have more piles of leaves so I'll put a lot more super glue down just throw a whole bunch of leaves on move them to our wand if I want more I'll just Chuck a bit of super glue on top of those leaves and put a couple more leaves on top of there again just so we get some variance throughout so it's not just one or two leaves just lying around once I lift up their entire Army I felt like the Spring Leaves were a bit too bright they were drawing my down because the green model is already dark and you've got these light leaves on the base was just really pulling the attraction down and also they just didn't really fit you know you've got real leaves with painted stuff so what I did was you can either use some sort of green shade but I'm mostly going to stick to agrax so it Blends in with the rest of my base so I'm just gonna Chuck some agrax Earth shade on top of all these leaves throughout and I think this is what really really nailed this whole base down now the basing's done I had to do the last thing here and it's probably the most tedious and annoying thing I've had to do because this is actually a first for me I'm using microsole and micro set for the first time because I hate doing decals or water transfers whatever people call them and apparently this stuff really really helps I've had it for all like two three years and never really had the reason to use it much so basically what I had to do was paint this on top of the transfer with a paintbrush and I dabbed it down with a an earbud every now and again just to try and get it nice and flush but once it dried I would go over again with micro set just to soften it try and smooth it I did this quite a few times throughout the entire Army just trying to get them really really flush once you do have it flush and everything looks good and all that kind of stuff that's when you go over your transfers with microsol and that kind of just helps set everything get everything looking less shiny and stuff now I think you have to do a few coats of this as well I did a few but laid to once I varnished the model and everything all that shininess and all that will also go away but with that said let's have a quick little Showcase of the entire Army done [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] there you have it ladies and gents got the entire 500 points combat Patrol slash boarding actions Army done like I said a million times before there's some things I need to clean up and go back up to but I just wanted something to actually be finished for once but I mean what do you guys think do you think uh it's fine to kind of cut Corners sometimes just to get stuff done I think everybody's always the kind of worst critic in these things but I hope you enjoyed the video and if you did please leave a like And subscribe and hit the bell I usually don't really care too much about saying that but this video took me a really long time to do so I would much appreciate any sharing and liking subscribing and stuff like that and of course if this video does really well and you guys comment below if you would like me to maybe expand this Army like do another 500 points maybe a thousand points bring it up to a thousand one Army one thousand five hundred point on me if people want to watch it and they want to see it I will do it now obviously another thing if you would want me to do a more in-depth painting guide or basing guide or anything like that of anything in this video please let me know as well because I've kind of brushed through everything so this video is not three hours long but once again guys I really hope you enjoyed the video I've put a lot of effort into this one and I'll see you in the next one bye

Channel: Jam's Mini Mods

Views: 58,277

Keywords: dark angels, dark angel, army, the lion, Lion El'Jonson, primarch, starting, building, box to battlefield, 40k, warhammer, games workshop, horus heresy, painting, kitbashing, kitbash, convert, converting, robes, cloth, paint, how to, tutorial, chaplain, bladeguard veterans, primaris, space marines, space, marine, deathwing, ravenwing, Interrogator-Chaplain, dark angels army, green stuff, greenstuff, miniature, miniatures, model, models, sculpt, sculpting, veterans, wargaming, boarding actions, combat patrol

Id: tAEqms6dHDA

Length: 35min 37sec (2137 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 23 2023