In this video I'm going to show you
how I paint the Dark Angels' Deathwing Hi everyone and welcome along to
another Brushstroke Painting Guide. I'm Brushstroke and as you heard from
the intro there this video is going to be looking at painting the color scheme
for the Deathwing from the Dark Angels. Now there's a lot to get packed in
on this one so, I'm not going to hang around, so let's get stuck in.
But just quickly before we start, just a couple of things which I think will
help you get the most out of this video. The first one is if you haven't checked
it out yet I have a playlist of painting fundamental videos which are
designed to take you through all the techniques and things that
I use in my videos in more detail. So that you can really get
the most out of your painting. So if you'd like to see those?
Then please click this link above. And then finally, I do get asked a
lot about the paint brushes I use. So if you'd like more details on those?
Then please do click this link above. Right okay, let's make a start on some painting!
And straight away you can see I've already prepared and primed my miniature ready for
painting and in this particular case I've used Vallejo surface primer in white, all over the
model, and the reason I picked white is because the model is predominantly going to be a very
pale color. So it makes it far easier to get a nice bright vibrant color over white than
it would do over a black primer for example. And the other thing that you've probably already
noticed is I haven't completed the model. I'm going to paint it in parts, and the
reason for that is it would make it quite awkward to paint behind the shield and around
the head and helmet area if I kept them on. So I'm going to paint those as subassemblies,
which basically means I paint them separately and then assemble it right at the end.
Okay so let's make a start on some painting and the first thing is I was going to base
coat in all of the armor details and for this I was going to use Wraith bone from Games
Workshop and then I remembered they actually provide this paint as a spray can as well.
Now I don't usually use spray cans because I tend to just airbrush my primer on and then hand
paint everything just to show you that you can get really smooth finishes with hand painting.
But in this particular case, I think if you're going to be painting an army of
these it will save you a lot of time. So I'm going to use the rattle can
for this and let's see how it goes. Okay so that's fully sprayed up now and I have
to say It's gone on a lot better than I expected. Now I did have the white primer already
which made it a lot easier to get a solid color. So I didn't have to go too heavy with this.
I don't know what it would be like on bare plastic or indeed if you can use this on bare plastic?
I don't even know if these sprays are meant to be primers or not?
I always like to use a specific plastic primer anyway, so I would
definitely recommend doing a white primer and then either if you spray it with this or you
do a hand brush on from the pot you should end up with something that looks a bit like this.
And we're going to move straight on to the next stage and that's going to be painting in all the
armor joints and tubing and for this I'm going to use some Eshin Grey from Games Workshop.
So this step is pretty straightforward but you do need to take some care.
So the idea is that we're going to use that wraith bone on all the armor
color as the final finish, so we do need need to try and be careful not to get this
Eshin Grey in areas that we don't want to. So I'm going to try and paint it into all
of these armor joints around the model and try and be as neat and clean as possible.
So for that end I'm using quite a small brush. I'm using my size one brush and I've
thinned the paint down on my palette so it's flowing really cleanly and smoothly.
And I'm just using the tip of the brush just to guide the paint where I want it to go.
Now, inevitably you will make mistakes and it's pretty hard not to because some of these
areas are quite tight little corners that you're trying to get that paint into.
But don't panic, it's absolutely fine, all you need to do is just let it dry and
I'll show you how you can tidy things up again at the end of this stage.
Now you may find by thinning the Eshin grey that it won't cover solidly
in one coat. That's absolutely fine. The idea here is to get a nice
clean smooth finish across the surface into all the areas that you want to.
So if you do need to, then do go back and add a second coat, just to make that a nice solid color.
And in addition to all of those armor joints I'm also going to paint in this sort of tubing
or trunking that goes over the elbows here. Now I had intended to paint this with the eshin
gray on the inside tubing and then these outer rings as metallic, and I still do that, but
I actually found out it was much easier if I just paint the whole of this tubing in the
eshin gray and then add the silver later. So just paint the whole thing in eshin
gray and make life easy for yourself. Okay correcting mistakes is dead easy.
All you do is take some wraith bone, thin it with a touch of water, and then
paint it over the area you want to correct. Make sure it's nice and thin and
apply it as several thin layers and that will make that mark just disappear. Okay so everything is looking nice and neat again.
So I can move on to painting on the next color, which is going to be for all of
the Aquilla details on the chest plate and on the pauldon and for this I'm
going to use some Deep Red from Scale 75. Okay so this is exactly the same process
that we've just done with the eshin gray. The key thing here is to keep it clean and smooth
and try and be as neat as possible. But obviously, as I said before, mistakes will happen
so don't panic just let it dry and you can always neaten things back up
again with some wraith bone later. Now if you're not familiar with Scale 75 paints, they're definitely a range of paint that
I would recommend that you do try out. Now the first time you use them you're
going to think these look a bit strange. They're a bit gloopy but that
is how they're meant to look. They actually use a gel-based medium, which
is less liquid like, but they thin down with water and they behave exactly the same as any
other acrylics that you might have already used. So just thin them down in your palette as normal.
The advantage of that gel based medium is that it means that you can actually thin them down
considerably more than a lot of normal acrylic paints, that you might have used before.
So they're really great for doing blends and transitions and glazes and things.
In this particular case all I've done is added a touch of water just so it's
flowing nice and cleanly from my brush I'm just trying to be as neat and clean as
possible to paint in each of these areas. Now because I've added that bit of water
it does make it slightly translucent. So again I'm going to need to build up multiple
layers in order to get to a nice solid finish. Take your time.
Be neat. Any mistakes just neaten up at the end.
Oh and not forgetting, of course, to paint in all the details on any
subassembly items you might have as well. Okay so moving on now to the iconic
green robes of the Deathwing and for this I'm going to base coat them in with
some Wyvern Green from Two Thin Coats. Now Two Thin Coats is rapidly
becoming my favorite paint brand. Their paints are just absolutely
beautiful and a joy to work with. You just need a little bit of water
to get them flowing and they apply so cleanly and smoothly, it's just so nice.
So if you do get a chance to check them out then I highly recommend that you do.
Please do check out the description below, where I'll be listing all the paints I use in
this guide with links of where to get them and also at a discount price as as well.
So definitely worth checking that out. Now as you can see as I'm applying this
over the Wraithbone the coverage is pretty good but you will still
need to, as the name implies, apply two thin coats in order to build up to
that solid finish. And as I'm applying it, I'm trying to apply it in the same direction as
the folds of the robes themselves. That way the paint lays down in the direction of those robes
and gives a better, cleaner, smoother finish. Taking extra care ,of course, whenever I get close
to any areas that I don't want to get paint on. Whereas, other areas which I know I'm going to
paint again later, I don't need to worry about and I can get paint on those. That's absolutely fine.
And, as I say, don't worry about this looking a little bit patchy. The main
thing is to get it on smoothly. And then when you come back in with your second
coat, it'll build up to that solid finish. And when that's done, you should have
something that looks a bit like this. Which leads us on to the next stage, which
is going to be painting all of the silver metal details and for this I'm going to use
some Graphite from Dark Star Miniatures. Another wonderful paint
company for you to check out, if you haven't already done so. I am
a massive fan of their metallics and frankly I think their metallics are the best
that you can use for miniature painting. But don't take my word for it, give them
a try and let me know what you think. Now you might find that the coverage of
metallics over pale colors isn't great but bear with it. Just apply several thin
coats and you will get that solid finish. But just to illustrate what I mean, you can
see here the same paint being painted over the Eshin Grey areas goes on far easier and
actually you only need one coat to be able to get a nice solid silver color.
Now in terms of what details you should be painting silver, that's obviously
dependent on the model that you're painting. So just work your way around the model
and paint in any details that you would like to be that silver metallic color.
And not forgetting of course that at this point you want to be painting
in all of your rivets as well. Now this might seem a bit of a laborious task.
But actually it is worth taking your time and getting looking neat, because the end
result really makes the model pop. And the advantage of doing them now, is
that you can always go back and correct any mistakes with your wraith bone
before you move on to the next stage. And that next stage is going to be
painting in the crux terminatus on this terminator and for this I'm going to use
some Administratum Grey from Games Workshop. So we should be getting pretty used
to doing these base coat colors now. The steps are pretty much the same each time.
I've thinned the paint on the palette with a little bit of water and I'm just carefully
painting in each of these details, trying not to get the paint onto the
Wraithbone where I don't want it to. But of course mistakes do
happen, we're not perfect, so just let it dry and you can tidy
things up again at the end if you need to. Now I found the coverage of this over
the wraithbone was actually very good. But I still thinned it down so I got that
nice smooth finish and worked it into all of these little details. And I obviously didn't
want to clog up any of the fine detail either, so I applied it as two thin coats and made
sure I built up to that nice solid color. Not forgetting of course to paint in the
crux on the knee on this model as well. For my next base coat color I'm going to
paint in the few leather details on the model. Now you can do these any color you
like, but for me I'm going to paint them in with some Burnt Red from ProAcryl.
So starting off then with the handle for the mace here, I'm going to paint this in, in
exactly the same way as my previous base colors. Taking that extra care whenever I get close
to any colors that I've already painted. I've thinned it with that little bit of water
again and I'm going to apply it as two thin coats just to make sure I get a nice solid color.
And then I can repeat that same process on the scabbard for the gladius here, and its grip too.
And now the next color I'm going to paint in is for these ropes which I think
might be called aiguillettes, someone can correct me in the comments if I'm
wrong, and for this I want to go for a purple color so I'm going to base coat them in with
some Barak Nar Burgundy from Games Workshop. So these details are starting
to get a little bit smaller now, so I've actually stepped down to my smallest
brush so I've got that maximum level of control. I've thin the paint so it's got that little bit
of flow to it and I'm just going to very carefully pick out these details trying not to get the paint
onto any of the other colors I've already painted. Now again you can paint these any color you like
and they do look quite cool in white or yellow but I just thought I'd go for a purple because it's
a bit more kind of a royal or knightly color. And this particular model is a Deathwing
Knight, so I thought it quite appropriate. And it does contrast really
well against this deep green, which I'm hoping should make it quite an
interesting little accent color for the model. On to the next step then and that's going
to be painting in all of the gold trim. Now for this I'm going to use the same recipe that
I use for my Dark Angels, so it ties in nicely. So I'm going to start off with a base
coat of some Old Gold from Vallejo. So standard practice for base coating then,
little bit of water, get it flowing nicely. You'll find that this suffers from the
same coverage issues that the Graphite did, in that when you're applying it over that
paler color it doesn't cover quite as well. It's not a problem, just stick with the program. Thin the paint down,
apply multiple coats, and build up to that nice solid finish,
and you'll find that this will produce a nice muted aged gold look.
Which I think suits the Dark Angels to a tee. Now again, depending on the model that
you're painting will determine just how much gold details there are for you to paint in. So just work your way around the model
painting in all of those details. For example on this particular one I've
got the trim on the pauldrons here. Then I might add some accents to the
weapons, so maybe these handguards on the mace, I could paint those in gold.
I could add some accents to the gladius here. Maybe paint in the box around the relic.
That kind of thing. So just work your way around
and paint in those gold accents. And then move on to the next stage, which I'm hoping now means that you have
something that looks a bit like this. Which is pretty much all of
the base colors painted in. Now before we move on to adding shades, there
just one last step I want to do to the armor. And that's, I'm going to add an edge highlight
to all of the edges and for this I'm going to use some White Star from Two Thin Coats.
So a bit of a change for this step then, the aim of this step is to work our way around all
of the Wraithbone armor and picking out all of the edges to give some extra definition and highlight.
Now depending on the model that your painting this is likely to be the most time consuming
step in the whole of this paint Scheme. And unfortunately there's no real
avoiding it but it is worth doing well and it is worth doing neatly.
So please do take your time and work your way around picking out all of
those edges. Now you'll notice I've stepped down to my smaller brush for this.
This is just so I can be as careful and as neat as possible but of course mistakes will
always happen so don't panic. We're actually doing the highlights now because it makes it
easier to correct those mistakes, than it would after we've applied a wash to the surface.
So all you need to do is let that white dry and you can just paint back over again
with some thinned down wraithbone. And as I said at the start of this video if you
would like some more in-depth guidance on helping you improve your Edge highlighting?
Then I have a video for that in my fundamentals playlist. And all you
need to do is click this link above. But as you can see all I'm doing is I'm
working my way around all of the edges of the wraithbone armor and painting a nice
thin crisp line across all of the edges. Now I'm not pretending this is simple,
it does actually take a bit of practice. But the main thing really is
just patience and being careful. And then you just take either the tip of the brush
or the edge of the brush and slide it along those edges just to give a nice crisp white line.
Now the paint that I'm using does help as well, I highly recommend that you do get
yourself a pot of this White Star, because I found it to be the best pure
white highlighter that you can get. And with that little bit of water just to
make it flow really cleanly and smoothly, it really does make edge highlighting a joy.
And that's saying something! Okay so all those edge highlights are
now done and it's time to move on to the next stage and I'd say that this is
probably your last time really to do a final tidy up of all of that wraithbone
before we move on to adding some shades. And the first shade wash I'm going to
do is to all of the silver and Eshin Grey details . And for this I'm going to
use some Nuln Oil from Games Workshop. So nice and simple step this, I'm going
to use it neat straight from the pot but I do need to make sure I still take care and
only apply it to the areas that I want to. So I'm going to use a size one
brush and make sure I take my time. I'm just going to apply it and let it run
off the brush into the areas that I want to. And what I'm looking to do is get it to settle
into all of those recesses and details so that when it dries it makes all those areas
darker and looks like they're in shadow. So all I'm doing here is I'm just letting it run
off the brush into these grooves letting them fill up those grooves and I'm trying to be very careful
not to touch the side so that I don't get any of this wash onto that wraithbone armor.
So the trick here really is I'm not letting it get out of control.
I've got a smaller brush which means I've got less load in those bristles.
It just means I can control it a lot easier. It takes a little bit longer but it does mean that
it's a lot more accurate and I can put that wash exactly where I want it to go.
The other thing to remember is gravity is your friend.
So a wash will always want to settle downhill. So why don't use that to your advantage and
always orientate your model, that you're trying to apply the wash to, so that gravity
will take the wash where you want it to go? And the only other thing that you need to bear in mind when applying washes is that
they do take a longer time to dry. So do make sure it is fully dry
before moving onto the next stage. Okay so with that Nuln Oil wash now fully
dry, it's time to move on to shading all of the Wraithbone armor panels and for
this I'm going to use some Skeleton Horde contrast paint thinned down with some
Contrast Medium from Games Workshop. And the ratio I'm going to use is just one part
Skeleton Horde to two parts contrast medium. And the reason for that is, I want
this to be very light and very fluid. So really the end result you're after
is very little of it will settle on any of the top surfaces, especially those
large flat surfaces and it'll all try and run off into all those grooves and details. So just like with the last stage you
want to have a small brush and you want to do small areas at a time.
Ideally one panel at a time, so you can go from edge to edge and
get the full panel done in one go. And you want to apply the thinned down
Skeleton wash across the whole of the surface. And I try and do it from one side to the
other and encourage it to settle into any grooves and any edges along the way and if you
notice it try and pool up on any flat surfaces, then just try and wick it away with
your brush. And try and keep it moving. And then just keep encouraging it until it
gets to the sort of situation where you're happy that it's in all of those grooves
and very little of it is on the surface. Really all you're looking to do
is just wet the surface and let it pool up in any of those recesses but
definitely not on any of the flat areas. So a good example of how to apply the
wash, is how I do it on this foot. So I apply some on the top and I let
it run into that groove at the back. I keep encouraging the wash around the
shape of the foot, so it goes into all those grooves and recesses and I let it flow
around and I'm just encouraging it to settle so it forms the shadows where I want.
Then I'll just quickly come back with a little bit of a dry brush and just wick away,
across the top of that smooth surface there, just so I can remove any excess and any water
marks that might form on the top of that foot. Something a bit like that.
So now it's just a case of repeating that across the whole of the model and then leaving it
to fully dry before moving on to the next stage. Okay so that shade is now fully dry and
that armor is already looking really cool. So I'm going to move on now to
shading some other parts of the model. Starting off with the crux terminatus and for
this I'm going to use some Basilicanum Grey contrast paint thinned down with some
contrast medium from Games Workshop. And again the ratio I'm going
to use is quite a thin one. So again it's just one part Basilicanum
Grey to two parts contrast medium. And then it's just a case of applying
it across all of the detail, making sure that you encourage it to settle into
all of those those creases and recesses. And then let it dry fully before
moving on to the next stage. And the next stage is going to be
adding a shade wash to all of the red details and for this I'm going to
use some Red Tone from the Army Painter. Another really simple step then.
All I'm doing is I'm using it neat straight out of the bottle and
applying it over all of the red details. Again taking care not to get it
onto any areas I don't want it to. So I'm using a slightly smaller brush, just to
make sure I've got that control and applying it into all of those recesses just to bring out
that detail and to add that lovely shadow. Which brings us on to the next stage, which
is going to be adding our final color wash to this model, and that's going to be to all
of the gold details and for this I'm going to use some Seraphim Sepia from Games Workshop.
Again no real surprises with this stage all you need to do is use it neat straight out
of the bottle and apply it over all of the gold details you're looking to run it into all of
those creases and recesses and obviously take as much care as you can to make make sure you don't
get it onto any areas that you don't want it to. And then allow plenty of time for it to dry
fully before moving on to the next stage. Okay then, so for this next section
I'm going to be focusing on painting up the green robes and the first stage of
that is going to be brightening them up. So to do that I'm going to add a layer
of Emerald Green from Two Thin Coats. So this stage is pretty straightforward to
do, all I'm looking to do is paint back in the majority of the robes with the Emerald Green
but I'm going to leave that darker Wyvern Green showing in all the folds and recesses. That way
giving the impression that they're in shadow. So the main thing to bear in mind with this stage
is you want to get your paint consistency right. You need your paint to be
flowing cleanly and smoothly. So you need to get it thinned down on your
palette and ideally you want your paint to have a little bit of translucency to it.
So that when you apply it you can still see a bit of that color showing through
underneath and then as you're applying the paint to the surface you want to very lightly
touch the brush. So barely any pressure at all, that way the paint will flow cleanly
and smoothly through the bristles. And then it's also a good idea to have your
brushstrokes following the same direction as the robes in the cloak as well.
So if you take this section of robe here as an example, I'm going to paint in the
majority of it with the Emerald Green but it's got this bit of a crease in the middle.
So I'm not going to touch that. I'm going leave that with the Wyvern Green showing
and I'm just going to paint around it. And I'm also not going to paint it so it goes all
the way to the bottom. I'm going to leave the bit at the bottom, where it curves back under,
I'm going to leave that in shadow as well. And then I'm also not going to paint all
the way over to the left hand side here, where it tucks back in under the arm.
Because that'll be in shadow as well. So I'm just going to build up my layers of the
Emerald Green to a nice solid color. Leaving those areas so that they're in shadow but what
I do want to do is I want to build up a nice strong color along this leading edge here.
So I'm going to paint it along here making sure that I don't go too far on the inside
where that would be in dark shadow again. So just going to paint it along this edge here
and make sure that I get nice solid color all the way along this edge and then it's just a case
of repeating this process of applying thin layers to build up that color intensity on all of those
raised areas on the folds until you're happy. And that should give you something
that looks a bit like this. Which means I can now move on to adding
some highlights to the robes and for this I'm going to use a 50/50 mix of Emerald
Green and Ethereal Green from Two Thin Coats. And all you're looking to do on this stage is
pick out all of those edges and highest points on these folds that would catch the most light.
And then just run that brush along those edges just to pick out those highlights.
So the trick here really is just to take your time and to be nice and patient.
Just let the brush very gently touch the surface. Just to pick out those really highest
points on these folds and just let the paint flow from the brush onto the surface.
Now obviously it won't go right first time, so if you do need to make any corrections you
can just come back in with some of your Emerald Green to neaten everything back up again and
make a nice sharp highlight if you need to. Okay so with that highlight added your robe
should now look something a bit like this. And now I'm just going to bring
all of those colors together by applying a wash all over with some
Green Tone from the Army Painter. So what I'm looking to do at this stage is I'm
just looking to blend our colors together a little better, so that they feel a bit more coherent.
So I'm not looking to do a heavy wash. I'm just applying a very light wash, almost a
glaze, across the whole of the green surface. And what that will do is as it settles it'll
find any little low points that I've missed and add a little bit more shadow and definition
into those and it'll just help blend together all the little layers of green that we've got, so it
feels like it's all one color and one material. What you can also do at this stage is, if there's
any areas that you do want to add a little bit more shadow and definition to you can just
encourage this wash to settle a little bit more in those areas. And you can darken those down.
You don't need to worry about thinning this down you can use it neat straight from the pot and
just make sure you have a small enough brush to get it into all those areas that you want to
and you can apply it without losing control. And of course finally make sure it is fully
dry before moving on to the next stage. Okay so with those robes now done
it's time to start brightening up some other details on the model and I'm
going to start off with all the reds. And for this I'm going to start off by
adding a highlight of Deep Red from Scale 75. So all I'm looking to do at this stage is
pick out all of the raised areas with the Deep Red and leave that darker shaded
area untouched in all the recesses. And because this is quite fine detail work
I'm going to move down to my smallest brush and I'm going to take my time and just
pick out all of those raised details. Okay so with that first highlight added I'm
now going to come back in and finish it off with a second highlight and this time I'm
going to use some Blood Red from Scale 75. So this step is pretty much the same as
the last step except this time I'm not going to paint all of the raised areas.
I'm going to be a little bit more focused and apply it just to the endmost edges or the
topmost edges that I feel will catch the most light or I want to draw the most attention to.
So I'm just going to pick out those areas with this brighter red just to give that
focal point and to make it really pop. Moving on now I'm going to brighten
up all of the gold details and for this I'm going to apply a layer of
Liberator Gold from Games Workshop. So the key thing for this step
is you need to thin this paint so it's flowing cleanly and smoothly
and I'm going to apply one single thin layer to all of the areas which
I want to brighten back up again. So that's all the raised surfaces that would be
catching the light and I'm going to leave all of the recesses and the areas in shadow untouched.
So this paint when it's thinned down is pretty translucent, which is exactly what we're after.
All we're looking to do is brighten it back up by adding the shine back.
So sometimes as you're painting this you might find that the difference
is quite subtle but what it is doing is it's really bringing back that shine.
So just apply it to all of the highest most areas and the areas that you want to be
bright and then move on to the next stage. Next I'm going to add an edge highlight to
all of the purple details and for this I'm going to use some Sorcerer's
Cloak from Two Thin Coats. Okay so it's really starting to look good
now and I'm just going to finish off all of the metallics and for this I'm going to
do an edge highlight of Chrome from Vallejo. It's an absolutely wonderful paint this.
It's brilliant for highlighting any metallics. And for this particular case you're
going to need to work your way around all of the model picking out all
of those edges and highlighting them for the silver and all the gold
details and not forgetting of course to pick out all of those rivets as well,
to give them a nice shiny highlight too. Which brings us on nicely to the next
stage, which you'll be pleased to know is some more edge highlighting! :)
And this time it's going to be to all of the Wraithbone armor and again I'm going
to use some White Star from Two Thin Coats. Sow before you start panicking, this step isn't
repeating the edge highlighting of every edge. In fact, it's a lot more focused
and it's a lot quicker to do. All you need to do is pick out all the topmost
edges that would catch the most light or any areas that you'd like to draw focus to.
So it's particularly good for picking out the topmost areas on the shoulders, around the
head, top of the shields, that kind of thing. So any areas where you want to really draw that
focus and the light would be catching most. So just pick out those few edges
and that's all you need to do. Also while I'm already using the White
Star I should probably paint in the light source for my power weapon here.
So I'm just going to take some of the thined down White Star and I'm going to
run it in between each of these blades, just to add that light source which I
can come along and tint in the next step. Okay then, so as a final touch to this
model, I'm just going to tint that power weapon with a blue glow and for this
I'm going to use some Talassar Blue contrast paint thinned down with some
Contrast Medium from Games Workshop. And very simply all I've done is I've thinned
the Talassar Blue with the contrast medium at a ratio of about 50/50 and then all I'm doing is
I'm applying it as a glaze over that white area. Just to give it a nice blue tint and
make it look like it's a power weapon. And with the power weapon done
all that remains to be done is to finish assembling my model and with
that my Deathwing Knight is complete! Thank you so much for watching this video.
I really hope you've enjoyed it and found it useful?
If you have then please do hit that LIKE BUTTON and drop a COMMNENT
BELOW to let me know what you thought of it. For details on everything I've used in
this video, from the paints, materials, model, etc then please do check out
the links in the DESCRTIPTION BELOW. You'll also find that those links will provide
you with discounts on a lot of items as well! And of course a MASSIVE THANK YOU to
my channel members, whose names are going across the screen now, your support
for the channel is very much appreciated. If you have any enjoyed this video?
Then please do hit that SUBSCRIBE BUTTON and don't forget to click the NOTIFICATION
BELL to be told whenever I post another video. Speaking of other videos,
I'd love it if you stayed on the channel. So why not stay and watch a video on how you
could add some battle damage to your Deathwing? Or perhaps some different basing
options you could use for them too?
