How to paint Dark Angels EXACTLY like the box art! full 'Eavy Metal Masterclass - Start to finish

hello everyone welcome back to the channel this time I'll be painting a dark angel Space Marine from start to finish using the official box art recipes Dark Angels my first real Warhammer Army back during the Third Edition of 40K so I'm very excited to revisit this scheme for this tutorial so let's get started [Music] these are all the paints I'll be using for this tutorial first of all here I've already primed the model using a light dusting of Chaos Black primer over this I've applied a base coat of caliban green using an airbrush for Speed I'll be working in a few sub-assemblies for this project as I find it easier to reach everything and also find it much more manageable working in sections like this but feel free to glue any parts together to the degree that you feel comfortable with first of all I like to quickly go around and black out the surrounding elements of the armor it's important to do it at this stage especially with the black undersuit as mistakes can be more easily fixed [Music] thank you once that's done we need to shade the armor and for this I'll use a 50 50 mix of caliban green and black I thinned this down roughly one part paint to two parts water then in it down like this will allow the paint to more easily flow into the recesses this may take a few applications until we reach a nice opaque line shade if you do happen to make any mistakes here then it's easy just to go back in with caliban green and tidy this up before moving on to the next stage [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] with the shading stage out of the way it's time to highlight the armor and for this I'll use a 50 50 mix of Columbine green and warp Stone glow for this method of highlighting to work we need to make sure that the previous stages are still visible later on so for that reason I recommend making this stage around two to two and a half times the width of your sharpest highlight this first stage is really quite subtle so whilst I'm trying to remain as neat and uniform with it as I can it doesn't matter too much if it's not as precise as the later stages you might also notice with this and the following stage that the warp Stone glow has quite poor coverage and it might take a few coats for it to show properly I found it very tempting to thin the paint less to get a stronger coverage however it's really important to thin it properly at this stage and be patient to avoid building up any visible texture different colors of paint will have different properties and it's important to be aware of this some will require a bit more patience to cover properly like a saturated green and yellow however this same property can make them great for glazing whenever I start on a new project and I use unfamiliar colors I will test them out on something first of whether it be a spare part or in a less seen area of the model to get a feel for how the paint behaves foreign [Music] foreign stage highlight I'll be using a pure warp Stone glow and I'm painting this within the previous stage trying to be a bit more precise now the heavy metal or box art style of painting is all about building a strong foundation for the following stages so it really pays to take your time between stages to keep everything tidy however that being said it's perfectly normal and human to make mistakes at any stage and it's really important to know how to fix them you can cut back into your highlights with the previous stage at any time that you need I tend to find that if I make a mistake in the second or third stages but cutting back in with the first chunky highlight stage will look fine [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] thank you [Music] [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] down warp Stone glow around some of the upper areas of the armor panels This stage is completely optional however as I mentioned earlier warp Stone glow has very poor coverage so I'm using this to my advantage to smooth out the transitions of these first highlight stages I could have gone much further with this and added some reflective highlights in places but it's important not to go too far with this otherwise the overall tone of the green will change and it'll start to look a bit too much like a salamander [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] thank you [Music] for the next highlight stage I will be using moot green it's important that we keep this stage as fine as possible and try to allow room for the previous stages to show to avoid a harsh transition again if you do make any mistakes here they can easily be corrected with the previous stage personally I really like using the Winsor Newton Series 7 miniature brush for this as it has more of a triangular pointed tip and it's great for precision and detail work if you can't get hold of this particular brush or they're a bit too costly you could also try the Rosemary and Co series 323 or the artist's Opus Series M like I say this is just personal preference so you can use a regular kalinsky Sable brush and get the same result I just find with these it's a little bit easier this brush is a size zero however I also use size ones for this anything smaller I find the brush doesn't really last as long or hold enough paint foreign [Music] [Music] control is obviously quite important for this stage and that mostly just comes down to practice however there's several other factors that also contribute to it that I'd like to mention so firstly just being aware of the angle that you place the tip of the brush onto the figure so if you can try to paint with the tip of the brush more vertically down onto the edge and also try to move around the miniature so that the edge is more straight on pulling the brush towards yourself helps to create a much more natural and comfortable movement and also being aware of the pressure that you're applying to the tip of the brush for these fine Edge highlights you only need the slightest of pressure against the surface did you also know that where you place your fingers on the ferrule of the brush actually makes quite a large difference placing them closer to the tip of the brush will give you a much finer Precision but less range of movement bracing position is also very important as I've explained in previous videos make sure that your painting hand a miniature holding hand is in a comfortable and Brace position for me this is bracing against my desk with my hand holding the mini and then bracing my painting hand against this hand both paint consistency and the amount of paint on your brush is also another key factor I find that the further up in the Highlight stages I go I tend to thin the paint less this helps to get a stronger and more opaque highlight without having to go back too many times quite often you might see that I have some paint on my left thumb and I often paint onto my thumb before applying the brush to the model this has a couple of important functions firstly it allows me to adjust the amount of paint on the brush most of the time we just want the tip of the brush to have enough paint on it so that we have fine control and it doesn't Splurge out all over the edge of the model this can take some practice to learn and it's not just important to know this for Edge highlights but also for any finer work on the miniature thank you [Music] foreign foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign moving on now to the final highlight stage I made a mix of moot green and ushabdi Bone I applied this just as fine as the previous stage but this time concentrating it towards the top edges of the armor this stage is important as it helps to add the final sharpness to the armor and also slightly desaturates the acid green of the moot stage foreign foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign foreign ly I added some dots of white to the most prominent corners of the armor so here's a little bit of extra footage from the helmet now the vents around the face in particular required a lot of brush control and also paint management as I discussed earlier I found that a magnifying headset held me significantly with these areas a cheap one can be purchased on Amazon for as little as nine pounds so it's definitely something I recommend trying foreign [Music] [Music] here we have the finished helmet and whilst we're working on this area we might as well go ahead and paint in the lenses next for this I first base coat them using mephistan red if you struggle painting in the lenses after the armor you can always leave these highlights on the bottom of the eye until after the lens is complete for the first highlight on the lens I used wild Rider red for the next stage I use fire dragon bright this was followed by adding white Into the Fire Dragon [Music] I added a tiny bit of shading towards the top corner of the lens using corn red with a touch of black finally I added some dots of white into the Shaded corner of the eye next it was time to paint the chest Aquila and for this I first base coat using ushabti bone this is then shaded with a thin down Beyblade Brown [Music] [Music] I decided to go back here and tidy up the base coat leaving the shading in the recesses you can always leave this until after the final shade [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] shade of Steel Legion drab I used this much more controlled now to add some more definition around the feathers [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] for the first highlight stage I used screaming skull I use this to carefully pick out the edges of the feathers and skull [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] for the Final highlights I added white into the screaming skull [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] on to the metallics on the gun I like to use Vallejo dark aluminum for this as it's a nice slightly warm gunmetal the only drawback is as it's an airbrush paint it's already pre-thinned and can be a little difficult to control so I like to get this out of the way before tackling the casing this paint is as close to foolproof As It Gets In terms of getting a smooth base coat as mentioned it's already pre-thin so good to use straight from the pot just be aware that this paint will split quite quickly particularly if used on a wet palette if you don't have this paint something like Citadel lead Belcher or iron hand steel will work fine to shade this I use my trusted mix of liquitex carbon black with some dailyrowny matte medium to take out a little bit of the Shine from the ink make sure to thin inks down quite heavily with water if you don't have carbon black you could also use some non-oil basilicarnum gray or black Templar contrast paint as they will do the same job to avoid tide marks I find it better to be a bit patient with this stage and apply more thinner coats to get a smooth finish and I try to avoid the ink pulling anywhere that I don't want it to [Music] foreign for gunmetals I find it much better to keep it nice and simple so I find that adding one sharp highlight of Vallejo model air silver around all of the edges is all that's required foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] foreign to paint in the shell casings I use runelord brass this is then shaded with gor grunter fur contrast paint which I thin a little bit with water foreign a further deep shade is applied into the recesses using a mix of doomable brown and black [Music] this is then highlighted by adding Vallejo model air silver into the runelord brass next it's time to paint the red part of the gun casing which I base coated using my fist and red foreign [Music] I then shaded the red casing using a soft shade of corn red this is glazed around all of the recesses a bit wider than the line shade foreign for the Deep shade I used a mix of corn red and black [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] for the first chunky Edge highlight on the red I used evil Sun scarlet and applied this around all of the edges of the gun casing making sure to leave enough room for the subsequent highlights [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] for the second stage highlights I use Squig orange and I painted this within the previous stage around all of the edges of the casing [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] for the final and sharpest Edge highlights on the red I made a 50 50 mix of Squig orange and white and applied this to the uppermost edges and corners for these longer straight edge highlights it's much easier to use the side of the tip of the brush to pick out the edge just make sure to have very little paint on the brush [Music] finally I applied some dots of AK white on the most prominent corners of the gun casing [Music] foreign just picking out the rivets of the gun casing using Vallejo Model S silver now for the black part of the gun casing I'll be using my standard neutral gray black recipe over a black base coat I applied a chunky Edge highlight of 50 50 black and Ash and gray [Music] foreign thank you [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] for the next stage highlight I used a 50 50 mix of Ash and gray and dawn stone [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] thank you [Music] thank you [Music] [Music] for the final stage I applied a sharp edge highlight of administrant and gray again applying some white dots to the most prominent corners of the casing and picking out the rivets in silver foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] thank you foreign [Music] a lot of people were asking after the previous space frame video how I paint the undersuit or ribbing between the legs and arms and it's basically the same recipe as the Black Gun casing so I thought I'd show some footage of that here I tend to work the highlights finer and lighter towards the outside of the leg but the light would naturally hit if you do make any mistakes with the highlights you can heavily thin down some black paint and apply it into the recesses of the undersuit [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] for the Rope I wanted a darker richer and more purpley red so I made a mix of incubai darkness and corn red and applied this as a base coat foreign [Music] the Rope was then shaded with a thin down black paint this should be similar to a wash consistency and you can tidy any areas with the base coat afterwards if you need to [Music] [Music] thank you the Rope is then highlighted by adding more and more Vallejo iclo into the base mix you could also use Dawn yellow or something like a shabty bone instead of the ice yellow [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] with the guns now finished it was time to paint the leather I didn't have the actual box art recipe for this and usually I find that it can vary a little bit anyway so I'll be using an approximate recipe for this and it should get us pretty close for the base coat I used Ryan oxide and applied this around the leather straps belt and pouches this is then shaded with a 50 50 mix of rhinox hide and black which is thinned down and glazed around the recesses for the first chunky Edge highlight I used a 50 50 mix of monfang brown and rhinox hide and applied this around all of the edges of the leather foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] for the next highlight stage I use pure mon Fang Brown and again painting this around all of the edges [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] for the next stage I used a 50 50 mix of moonfang brown and Carrick Stone [Music] foreign [Music] foreign ly for the sharpest and most prominent edges I use pure Carrick Stone you can go a little further with this and add some white to the Carrick Stone just for the very corners for a super sharp leather now with everything pretty much finished on the miniature it was time to glue the parts together and get the basing done I used Tamiya plastic cement to attach the feet to the base and then super glue some rocks at the base for a little bit of added detail I then applied some thin down PVA glue and added some sand to the surface of the base for this I'll be using some rival crafts extra fine sand but lots of different products will work [Music] I'll be using the standard box art scheme for this base exactly how I would have done in the studio for the base coat I used a thin down monfang Brown it's important to thin it with enough water so that it flows into the sand using capillary action this way you don't have to risk touching near the feet with the brush and it also doesn't fill any of the detail of the sand [Music] after that was fully dry I carefully dry brushed the base using Baylor Brown [Music] is followed with a dry brush over shabty bone [Music] the rocks are then picked out using eschen Gray foreign [Music] over brush with dawn stone gray leaving the etching gray in the recesses [Music] this is Then followed by a dry brush of administer arm Gray [Music] foreign [Music] is then picked out with a few thin coats of Steel Legion drab [Music] I then added a few Gamers Grouse tiny Tufts to the base using PVA glue and it was complete [Music] this dark angel is from the fifth company and they would typically have a quartered knee marking so I thought I would quickly show how I painted this first of all I marked out some small dots on the knee in a cross formation you can then draw lines between these however I found that this was enough to give me an idea of the placement so I just started to block in the cream sections using a shabty bone foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] I found that I did need to cut back into the cream slightly just to tighten up the design the bottom left corner of the fifth company marking is black so I made sure to pick this out using AK black [Music] I then added a few scratches to the markings using caliban green and then picked out some highlights with screaming skull on the bone areas and then the previous black recipe on that quarter and here we have the finished Archangel Sergeant that's it for this video everyone thank you for watching and thank you for the continued support here on patreon this video has been a long one and it took a lot to film and edit so there might be some shorter videos coming up over the next month the first part of Dante and true metallics are on the way very soon catch you next time

Channel: InfernalBrush

Views: 61,160

Keywords:

Id: nj4QXlJJ5a0

Length: 61min 10sec (3670 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 23 2023