Splitting a Tractor - Massey Ferguson 1240 Clutch Replacement

howdy folks welcome back today i'm working on this massey ferguson 1240 compact utility tractor it needs a clutch it will barely pull itself in the lowest gear and it's basically unusable the way it is that's a four wheel drive tractor or front wheel assist as we say in the business this is actually made in japan by aseki corporation there's nothing massey ferguson about it other than the paint job and the stickers a pretty nice setup it's got this flat platform it's really easy to get on and off does have a reverser but it's not a shuttle you have to use the clutch to shift that he's got a loader for it and the loader hydraulics are built right into the the platform here i think it's got a differential lock and all kinds of cool features three-cylinder diesel engine it's got a real three-point hitch power take-off remote hydraulics yeah nice little setup anyway i'll demonstrate for you the uh the clutch is it's no good they've adjusted it and it does have free play but it will not it will not go in anything but the lowest gear give her a little gold plug so if i put it in snail that works and if i go from snail to turtle that works if i step on the brake pedal and forget about rabbit one or rabbit two well let's get to it i don't think i've ever done a clutch job video at least not on a tractor it's pretty straightforward typically just like any clutch in order to access it we have to separate the engine from the transmission the difference on a tractor versus a car or truck or something is that the engine and transmission in a tractor are structural members so we actually had to split the whole tractor in two and roll the engine and front axle away from the transmission and the rear axle which sounds kind of daunting but you know the clutch is a wear item and the tractor is designed to be taken apart that way so that it can be serviced so we're gonna have to contend with you know some cables here this is the throttle cable that's the pressure line for the hydraulics this is the return line for the hydraulics but if you look there's a flexible coupling right there where it's designed to be split into most of the harnesses are going to have a connector at the firewall that's going to allow those to be split into this side i think is going to be even easier the exhaust is all in the front side of the tractor there is a drive shaft at the bottom for the front axle we'll have to figure out how to split that [Music] come on seven millimeter this is a freaking chrysler product that's the fuel line by the way the fuel tank's behind the seat [Applause] gotta break the steering shaft if we have the right size socket well i think we're pretty close to cracking this thing in half i'll show you guys how i was taught to split tractors i'm not saying it's the right way but if it worked for dad it should work for us we got a couple of wooden wedges we're going to jam those between the frame and the front and axle on both sides now the front axle articulates on a central pivot and if we don't block it as soon as we separate the engine from the transmission it could just flop over to one side so there's actually a bell housing bolt all the way at the top behind the engine which you really can't access but they were nice enough to give us a little access hole through the firewall here with a little grommet stick an extension through there and back it right out pretty clever well here's the splitting setup i've got the floor jack underneath of the engine oil pan and a bottle jack underneath of the transmission and i've already got the bell housing cracked loose we should be able to roll this thing apart so yeah there's your problem it's right down to the rivets cool make sure you get a nice deep breath of clutch dust it's good for you she's a little moist i think we'll recommend a rear main seal all right guys we're done until we can get some parts we need a new clutch disc and a new pressure plate this thing is completely pooched it's actually worn right through the rivet heads that hold the friction material on so there is there's actually negative life in this clutch disc we also need to get the flywheel machined the rivets have actually worn a groove in the friction surface so if we're ever going to get full contact we're going to have to machine that and we're going to replace the pilot bearing this one's just a simple ball bearing yeah shouldn't be a big deal i did inquire about parts before we took it apart and i was told there were two different clutch options one has four friction pucks and then this style which has a full circumference of friction material we couldn't tell which one it was going to require until we got it apart also the clutch is pretty crazy expensive 900 bucks for a clutch and pressure plate so we'll see what happens i'll bring you guys back for that all right folks some time has passed and we now have parts ended up going after market for the clutch parts we got a brand new pressure plate clutch disc pilot bearing and throw out bearing all from high capacity got a new rear main seal from agco and i got the flywheel machined i was going to do it myself on the brake lathe but i wasn't sure what to do about this step it's kind of an odd setup the friction surface is actually higher than the bolt surface for the pressure plate and i wasn't sure how to machine that so i took it to them and they weren't sure how to machine it either so they ended up just for machining the friction surface and then the the clutch manufacturer recommends a 20 000 step half a millimeter between the pressure plate surface and the friction surface and it's actually it ended up being about 40 thousands so we're thinking that that's a minimum spec so it should be it should be just fine also got some filters there should be a fuel filter an engine oil filter a transoil filter and [Applause] a new o-ring for that hydraulic pressure line that runs back to the transmission well standard seal installation practices apply we're going to fill up the back side with some grease just so there's no chance that spring could pop out we'll put a little bit on the ceiling surface as well so it doesn't burn up on us i'm actually not sure why but there was a spacer under the lip of the old seal and the parts breakdown shows that spacer being there so we're going to reuse it i'm not sure if it's just to take up the slack so they can use a standard seal or if it's designed so that if you have a ring worn in your the end of the crankshaft you can move the seal in a little bit and get a new surface i'm not sure there's no wear sleeve on this crankshaft so if you did have a groove you'd have a problem but luckily crankshaft's in perfect condition on this tractor so we're gonna put a little bit of loctite 515 on the outside diameter here we'll use our official seal installation tool slash axle nut socket [Applause] yeah so it looks like we have to put the pilot bearing in before we can put the bolts and this retaining plate on we'll stick one in to hold it for right now [Applause] a little bit of blue loctite on those bolts the ring gear on the flywheel is also in perfect condition i don't think this tractor has very many hours on it i'm not sure why the clutch is already burned up in it can't find a torque spec for these so we're going to put them at 100 foot-pounds that should be fine now the tricky part got to install the clutch disc and the pressure plate and you got to pay attention because there's a lot of things you can do wrong the clutch disc only goes in one way the spring basket has to go towards the inside on the pressure plate there are six bolts four of them are four of them will look like this they're actually stamped with a four two of them will look like this and they have an unthreaded section right here in the flywheel there are two holes that are actually counter-bored and these two special bolts go in those two special holes that's your alignment for the pressure plate the way it goes is you put the clutch disc in like so now the pressure plate and if you look at the pressure plate it has two holes that have a small hole next to them those holes correspond to the special bolts so we're going to put that on kind of like so a little bit of blue loctite on those now normally like on a clutch for a car or something they would include a little cheesy plastic alignment tool no such luck on this guy so we're going to use this universal alignment tool has interchangeable ends to fit in the pilot bearing and then a little comb here i'm not sure it's gonna work because the way this is designed yeah might work all right let's try it okay well the reason they go through all these extra steps on the pressure plate because there's actually two splines there's a spline that's fixed to the outside of the pressure plate and then the spline on the clutch disc itself and that's for the live pto the spline inside here for the clutch disc is for the transmission obviously and this outside spline is for the live pto so even if you push the clutch pedal down and disengage the clutch disc this spline out here rotates any time that the engine rotates so you if you have a mower or something like that you don't want that to stop every time that you push the clutch older tractors did not have live ptos or live hydraulics so anytime you push down the clutch whatever you were towing behind you or lifting with the hydraulics would also stop and where that really got sketchy is with things like mowers if you push the clutch down the momentum of the mower would keep trying to spin the transmission and even though you push the clutch down it's still trying to move the tractor forward so they actually have overrunning clutches you can buy to eliminate that problem [Applause] all right now once the clutch is installed we can remove these three caging bolts here they should actually be loose and they are so that just keeps the the springs in the in the pressure plate compressed during shipping so the whole thing doesn't come flying apart there we go [Music] [Music] so [Applause] there's your double spline the outside one's the pto inside one's the transmission that's what makes these tractors clutches so hard to get together because now you have to align two splines at the same time so we are going to put a little grease on the splines here just to assist us in getting this thing together just don't go crazy because you don't want it slinging around in there and getting on the friction disc and causing problems well this tractor had rtv on the bell housing just to keep water out i'm sure because there is a drain hole here or a weep hole whatever you want to call it in case anything were to get inside huh okay so we just started on the on the shaft pretty darn close i've got all the bell housing bolts in and tight except for the two bolts through the starter which do also go through the bell housing but i think before we install the starter we're going to adjust the clutch so it's got way too much free travel right now the linkage is here just inside the firewall so let's let's adjust that i don't know what the spec is supposed to be we'll probably put it at about i don't know around 20 millimeters three quarters of an inch somewhere around there free travel looks like we just shortened the linkage a little bit that worked seems about right probably want a little extra free play since it's a brand new clutch it's gonna wear in pretty quickly well the starter also gets some rtv they really don't want water or whatever getting inside this bell housing not entirely sure why all right folks we're getting pretty close i think we're done with these [Music] i've got the hydraulic connections hooked back up so new o-ring underneath this guy and then we hooked up that little short piece of hose on the suction line i think i've got most of the connectors reconnected shut down solenoid oil pressure sensor this one here is for the voltage regulator which is inside the hood it should start without that so we'll leave that disconnected for now got this bulk harness connected uh there's a ground here we're gonna have to hook up yeah the drive shaft underneath is reconnected we're gonna go ahead and fill it up with some transmission oil i did spin on a new filter that lives right there underneath of the fuel tank and the transmission fill is right behind the hydraulic remotes i believe this is supposed to have a 10 w 30 combination transmission and hydraulic fluid and it's supposed to use that stuff right there eggco power fluid 821xl i believe it's also called what is it also called permatron anyway this stuff here from farm fleet is the equivalent quite a bit cheaper it'll be just fine i think we'll do the fuel filter first before we start it and then once we're sure it's going to work we'll do the engine oil change just because it's we've already had this line off i don't want to try to bleed it twice ah of course at least it was on camera now it should have a bleed position i think if we flip it to this guy it says air and we needed rain everybody's happy about it except for mr max you don't like getting wet do you pub the fuel tank behind the seats actually higher than the fuel bowl so bit gravity bled no problem i was going to try to start it but i guess there's nothing there's no power here without that voltage regulator being plugged in so we are gonna have to hook that up well figured out why i wouldn't run without this thing plugged in uh it's not a voltage regulator at all it is come on it's a fuse box so yeah probably needs that [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Applause] [Applause] no torque to 1.6 kilogram meters whatever that is straight from the land of the rising sun looks a little bit better than that tiny little pure later that was on it [Applause] pretty sloppy wes pretty sloppy there we go i feel pretty bad about it too because there's definitely not been any oil spilled on the floor so far [Music] [Applause] [Music] so [Music] [Applause] [Music] we're gonna go straight to rabbit two it'd be nice if one time if you asked me to do an outro i knew exactly what the video was going to be about so i could make the outro make sense are we ever going to drive all right lady so there's a key right here okay got it i need to turn it counterclockwise that'll activate the gold plugs okay she's pre-combustion so it's hard to start so let that go for about 5-10 seconds okay okay now you got to push the oh yeah i'm supposed to tell you what the pedals do before you start driving oh that would be nice learn from the last tractor video so on the left is your clutch pedal this one yep on the right is the brake pedals there's one for each wheel but they're locked together right now okay look at that one has one big pedal okay and the parking brakes on right now so when you get it started you'll have to push this brake pedal okay and it'll release okay so push down the clutch pedal and then you can turn the key and started [Applause] turtle one yet hey you got to release the break where's the brake pedal there you go [Applause] i killed it i'm not really sure how if you want to stop you got to push the clutch in neutral okay it's alive what do you think ladies it fixed i don't know it ran really smooth once i put it into a rabbit one yep um i wonder no don't mess with that so it's actually got 16 gears i think there's another four gears over here oh my goodness i could barely figure out these four yeah this is a nice little tractor i liked it it was nice to cruise around our little yard what did i do with this i have no idea really nice little tractor like the four-wheel drive it's pretty easy to work on i'd like to point out that is not what you were saying last night when i checked in yeah we had a little struggle getting the clutch we're getting the uh whatever putting the stuff back together my fault not the tractor's fault other than the clutch parts being kind of expensive i think uh yeah i don't have a whole lot to complain about i don't think any of the gauges work uh yeah i don't think so either all right folks there you go how to replace the clutch in your massey ferguson 1240 tractor not a bad job would you call that a diy friendly jump yes i'd say so there's i know there's like special fancy splitting stands you can buy and stuff but this small tractor it's easily done with just regular regular shop tools bottle jacks and floor jacks and two by fours and stuff like that yeah so that's it thanks for watching you're fine hey don't ride the clutch hey oh you actually turned it off successfully i didn't kill it yeah it's confusing in order to stop you in order to stop you have to get the clutch and the brake i'm not used to driving a manual so you know who you need to hang out with my father he is the original clutch nazi okay all right that's pretty easy going guy but there's there's a few things he doesn't allow and uh slipping the clutch riding the clutch holding the clutch down too long he's the original nazi when it comes to tractor clutch usage he's gonna put some air in this tire but i'm uh i'm afraid too she's looking pretty scary i took the cap off the valve stem there and all i got was water it usually means the valve core is stuck and you're gonna lose all the fluid out of the wheel we're just going to put that back together and and send it home the rim is shot he had somebody make this rim they did a beautiful job so it was about half the price of the dealership that's pretty cool

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 245,167

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Id: mu29fjGL0pQ

Length: 33min 41sec (2021 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 28 2021