Sony a7R IV Tips & Tutorial

hi I'm Tony Northrup and this is my tutorial for the sony a7r Mark four this isn't a typical tutorial I'm gonna assume if you bought this camera that you kind of know what you're doing you don't need me to walk you through aperture priority shutter priority I've spent I don't know like a month with this camera so far really using it for our professional work so I'm gonna teach you the ins and outs of working with it I'm going to assume you've used a Sony Canon or Nikon camera you might be coming from a DSLR or another mirrorless camera all the tips and tricks that will help you work around the quirks of this camera first subscribe it's free we have lots of useful reviews and tutorials also if you want to send your friends to a tutorial for a different camera send them to SDP dot io / tutorials we have hour-long tutorials for more than 50 cameras and they're all absolutely free if you want the PDF of the manual for this camera which is useful for searching for a particular feature especially when you're out in the field use this URL I suggest downloading that PDF to your smartphone so that even if you don't have internet access you can quickly pull it up and do a find Sony regularly updates the firmware on their cameras and these updates can fix bugs and add new features so definitely search for Sony a7r for firmware updates obviously I'm working with the latest one at this time but later on there might be new ones let's first talk about batteries on this camera obviously the battery is hidden under here you've probably found this already this camera does support USB charging so you do not need to travel with the included battery charger you can charge it using one of two ports either the microUSB port on the bottom here or the USB C port on the top here the USB C port charges fast the microUSB port charge is very slow either will get you fully charged if you just plug it in at night like you do your smart phone and when I travel that's what I do we're of caution the USBC charger here does not work with my macbook pro USBC charger in fact the only USB C charger I found it works with is like a standard old-timey USB a two USB C charger if that makes sense to you so anyway before you travel if you're planning to use USB C make sure you test the charger out so your caught stranded which actually happened to me I would suggest buying an extra what they call a Sony Z battery and traveling with it because there's nothing worse than running out of batteries I caution you against third-party generic batteries that will work for a while but my experience has always been that they tend to flake out suddenly and might leave you stranded so for that reason for all camera manufacturers I stick with the original OEM batteries this camera has two UHS two memory card slots in it you can see they pop out like this I strongly suggest writing both Stills and video to both cards simultaneously not too long ago we polled over 4000 photographers and we found that almost half of them had had a memory card failure at some point during their career that resulted in a loss of photos the more pictures people took the more likely they were to have a failure up to about 75% of people who'd shot more than a million pictures had experienced some kind of failure you don't want to lose your important photos because you had an SD card failure so put two you ate just two cards in there you with just two cards are faster and then set the camera up to write to both cards by hitting the menu button up here we're going to scroll up to the top you can see there are tabs at the top here so I'm scrolling through the tabs over to the toolbox and then I'm going to go down and go to setup page 5 now at the bottom of setup page 5 we see rec media settings that's very confusing so as we select that we can ignore this first option of prioritizing it what we want to adjust is recording mode we're going to select that and then we're going to select simulate and then Stills and video so right there that will simultaneously record whatever your settings are to both the first and the second card sometimes especially when I travel I like to write raw to one card and JPEG to the second card this allows me to pull out the second card and know that there are only JPEGs on there and JPEGs tend to load faster onto my computer or smartphone so in case I want to go through something quickly and I don't want to be able deal with the big raw files I'll instead choose sort raw / JPEG and that will call to write raw to card one or whatever you selected as the main card and then jpg to the other card JPEGs aren't perfect backup but they're kind of better than nothing here's a suggestion for a UHS to sd card the Lexar professionals are a good compromise between cost and performance certainly you can get cards that that claim to have three hundred and fifty megabytes per second but in the real world they don't really operate anywhere near these capacities anyway this SDP that IO link will take you there I would get two of the 256 gig cards which will cost you about a hundred and fifty bucks 256 gigs might seem like an impossibly high capacity for you but these are 60 mega pixel files and if you go into pixel shift a set of 16 pixel shift files runs about 2 gigabytes so that's one picture it takes up 2 gigabytes and to reliably capture one picture you need to take about 10 images so in one scene you might easily shoot 20 gigabytes of data so you're not gonna be upset that you bought the bigger cards I'm also gonna suggest that you buy some cheap SD cards keep them around in different places for emergencies here's a story you saved my butt an email I got you can pause it and read it if you want but the summary is if you you will at some point forget your SD cards or you will have failures or something it always happened so I buy a stack of cheap SD cards put one in my every suitcase every bag in my glove compartment in my wife's purse I just hide them throughout my life and then when I need them I know that they're there and I've saved more than a few butts butts by using that trick my single biggest challenge with all of the Sony cameras is sensor dust like no other camera they attract sensor dust even when they're brand new even when I've only put one lens on and have never changed it I end up with sensor dust before every important shoot with these Sony cameras I have to clean the sensor or I'm going to waste a bunch of time in post removing that dust manually here is the sensor cleaning setup that I use you can purchase it at this SDIO link here and if you want a video tutorial on how to actually clean the sensor this is free go to SDP dot io / clean let's go over the physical ports on the camera in the upper left of the left side of the camera here we have this is baffling to me PC sink port this port goes back to I think like the teens like nineteen teens or nineteen twenty so it's probably a hundred years old used to trigger studio strobes it is a terrible port this PC sync port will always regularly fall off and ruin your shots I haven't used one in a long long time nowadays flashes strobes are always triggered through the hot shoe on the top that's there don't ever use it unless you absolutely have to under the second door here we have headphone and mic jacks that are indicated with their color and then we have a micro HDMI port in case you wanted to hook it up to a field monitor to record a video externally or just to use it as like a flip forward screen or something you will need a micro HDMI to HDMI cable that cable will come loose because micro HDMI is very flaky and that will screw up your recording so if you're going to do that I suggest getting some sort of cage that holds the cable in place it's not reliable and as I introduced earlier below that we have USB C and micro USB ports USB C is the newer faster generation if you're going to do wired tethering with this camera be sure to use USB C and connect it to either a USB C or USB 3 port on the device that you're tethering to there's no real reason you should ever use the micro USB port except to use a remote trigger which we'll talk about in just another second let's go over the controls on this camera they're all pretty basic on the top just like every old DSLR from the 50s we have this mode dial here that allows you to change the auto exposure mode program aperture priority shutter priority and manual mode we have the green auto mode that's the mode I switched to if I'm going to hand somebody else my camera to take a picture just to make everything simple and sort of erase all my crazy customizations we have video mode here for recording video that you can always hit the record button here in any mode to start recording a video switching to the video mode will like show your levels and give you your nice sixteen by nine crop before you start recording so it's useful to do that SN q is confusingly named it basically means slow and quick motions the slow motion video or fast motion video something with an unusual framerate and then we have modes one two and three here for just recalling a group of settings that you've previously saved and I'll show you how to do that in just another couple of minutes for me I always end up in aperture priority mode by default the buttons and dials have changed from other generations of cameras but pretty much any camera you're using you'll find them to be pretty familiar one of these will adjust the aperture one of them will adjust the shutter and that's fairly obvious the exposure compensation dial here on top has changed from previous generations of cameras in that it now locks it's different from the mode dial the mode dial to turn that you have to hold the middle button down always and turn it with the exposure compensation dial it clicks on and off so when it's down it's locked and I cannot accidentally turn it that used to be a real problem on the earlier cameras so now that's not a problem but if you decide oh I quickly need to add an additional stop of exposure while you're shooting you will need to take a second unlock it and then adjust it and then after you're done shooting and changing the exposure compensation remember to always dial it back to zero because unlike other cameras it does not automatically reset because that's not physically possible there's a thumb stick on the back here that you can use to change the focusing point by default you cannot touch the screen to change the focusing point but you can touch the trash can to turn touch operation on and that will turn touch operation on and then when you touch the screen it will focus on the point that you've selected you can quickly change a variety of common settings by hitting the FN button and here you can see it allows me to change the drive mode and the focusing mode and the focusing area and a few other settings those are very convenient and I'll show you in just a few minutes how to customize this we have an AF on button here in a predictable space as well as an auto exposure locking button which you can customize both of those buttons we also have two custom buttons on the top I often get emails from people who are panicked because their camera no longer focuses accurately and often the cause of this is actually the diopter the diopter dials in a glasses prescription into your viewfinder and if the diopter is accidentally hit then it will seem like the entire viewfinder is out of focus so all of us should do this on a brand new camera every new camera that we get hold the viewfinder up to your eye don't look through it but look down at the at the letters at the bottom of the screen and then adjust this little diopter right here if you pick up somebody else's camera that's the first thing you should do when you hand it back to them you should remind them don't forget to adjust the diopter back it does get hit accidentally so if everything's blurry remember dial it in by looking at the letters on the bottom of the screen by default this camera beeps every time it acquires focus that's infuriating we want to turn that off immediately I'll hit the menu button then I'll go up to the tabs go to camera to tab page 11 I'm going to select audio signals and set that to off everyone around you well thank you for not beeping all the time I'm going to show you my standard method for selecting a focusing point and focusing which is different from other cameras this camera the new Sony a9 the new Sony a 6400 they have what's called Sony's a real-time autofocus system it tracks subjects in continuous autofocus as they move around the frame and it's really amazing it means to me that I no longer have to use the thumb stick to move the focusing point around I don't have to manually select a focusing point by touching the screen instead I always use what resembles old-time focus recompose I'll show you how I do it the first thing I'll do is I'll select a continuous shutter to shoot multiple pictures that's not really related to this I just find that convenient I always rattle off a few pictures at a time that's especially important on a high megapixel camera like this because camera shake is much more obvious miss focus is much more obvious so taking multiple pictures improves your chances that at least one is going to be super super sharp now that I have multiple pictures shot at the same time I'm going to go to the second option here which is the focus mode a fa is useless to serious photographer as it switches between single and continuous auto focus on this camera I always use continuous autofocus AFC so I'll select that now I'm going to hit FN once more and I'm going to change the focus area my favourite focus area is the very last option here tracking and then I'm going to go to Center tracking center keeps the focusing point on the middle you obviously don't want to always focus on the middle of the frame I'll show you what I do let's say I want to focus on the T on the screen there but I want the T to be on the left side of the frame up with the T in the middle I'll half press the shutter so it locks focus and then I can recompose so I could also just move the thumbstick to put on the left side of the frame and focus but that would take significantly longer always using the center part of the frame and then focusing recomposing happens very very quickly it's very reliable on this camera and I just find it's an overall better workflow of course you have to have it in AFC but it will track slight changes in focus as your recomposing earlier I showed you that touch to focus will change the focusing point even if you have center auto focus selected something I find more useful as turning on touch tracking that will allow you to touch something and have it track it as it moves around the screen much like your smartphone does to do that I'll hit the menu I'll go up to the tabs here and it's camera to page 10 func of touch operation so hustle like that and then I'll select touch tracking and now once again I'll focus on I'll focus on this T here I'll touch it and now you can see as I move the camera around it continually tracks that again I can touch it and then decide to recompose my shot and it will continue to autofocus I also want to suggest you turn off the autofocus illuminator in dim environments this camera has a little light here that light up disturbing everybody in the area and it will help it autofocus more accurately by adding light to the scene but I find it to be very disturbing especially if you're shooting a nice moment in a wedding you don't want to suddenly be the guy who's like shining of what looks like a cellphone flashlight hit the menu button go to the camera one tab and then over to page six and you'll see AF illuminator I'll select that and then I will select off so it will never come on I'm gonna take a second to plug our sponsor which is me I've written a whole bunch of books about photography about post-processing Lightroom and Photoshop the book stunning digital photography is a video book with more than fourteen hours of video it's been the number one photography book in the world since like 2013 if you look on Amazon has more than 2000 reviews so you could pick it up from Amazon help support me or you can go directly to our store at SDP dot io slash store the eBook version starts at ten bucks or you can get the paper book paperback version and either one has 14 hours or more of video hour books on Lightroom and Photoshop or also video books with tons of video training built-in so you don't just get a book but you get video training - I have a photography buying guide that'll help you pick out cameras and lenses and studio strobes and tripods and all that other gear and then for the really serious photographers we have our art and science of photography video training series which will take your photography deeper then YouTube tutorials ever could and we also have a portrait professional training series that you can find at the same link for those of you who really want to make money as a working portrait photographer it can make you tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars so they're all a really good value check them out at northrop photo let's talk about back button focus if you don't know what back button focus is head to sdp dot io / y BB where i have a video tutorial that will show you why I use it wise made such a big difference in the workflows of just thousands and thousands of photographers to turn it on on this camera it's a two-step process first I'll hit the menu button here I'm going to go to the camera one tab I'm going to go to age six and then I'm going to go down to the last option AF with shudder and I'm going to set that to off what this does is that decouples focusing from the shutter button so now when I have pressed the shutter it no longer attempts to autofocus and actually that's it earlier I said this was a two-step process but AF on is already programmed so it's just a one-step process but now let's talk about I oughta focus if you focus on something with an eye humans or sometimes even animals it can find the eye in the frame and automatically focus on it and for portrait photography this can really speed up the process of selecting an eye but there are a few caveats you should know about most important is that it is not perfect I have gotten a shockingly low percentage of I oughta focus shots on this camera in focus especially when shooting with something like the 85 f-14 which has a very shallow depth of field you're shooting tight headshots you'll find that it will focus on the eyelashes instead of the eye itself because at 60 megapixels with a sharp lens and shallow depth of field the accuracy required is greater than the accuracy that the camera is giving you it's basically focusing on the first thing it sees which might be eyelashes or it could be the brow and you will notice that with such a high megapixel file there's an easy solution to that and if you're using back button focus hold back button focus down until it acquires focus and then let go and while you're shooting continuously lean in and out just like that just very slight leaning in and out enough to cover the distance from the eyelashes to the eye shootin continuously at 10 frames per second you can just shoot for half a second or 1 second but during the course of that shooting one of those pictures is bound to be sharper so to recap use back button focus hold back button focus down until it gets focus then release the back button focus and at the same time start shooting while leaning in and out when you're processing you will go through those and pick the one that is most precise you do any need this all the time but if you're shooting with shallow depth-of-field like at 85 f-14 and tight head then it can be an absolute lifesaver I also want to show you how to set I detect they have specifically to a separate custom button hit the menu button go to camera page two here and then we're going to go over to page mm this page six and then hit this top option here custom key and instead of a I'll hold the future I never use I'm going to select that and then I'm going to select IAF IAF on page six so I'll select that so now when I'm doing a portrait session instead of hitting AF on I will hit AE L and that will always focus on an eye or if I just generally want to focus on something I can switch to using AF on so now my thumb nose over here is portraits and over here is general shooting the disp button is really useful this is here on the directional pad and pushing it up and it changes the information that's displayed you can see as I switch here first it has the sort of cluttered display with lots of stuff I don't care about displayed if I push it again it gives me a clean viewfinder which I like it helps me focus on the composition if I push it again it gives me a histogram which helps me nail the exposure you aren't comfortable using histograms check out my book stunning digital photography where I describe that or push it up again and it gives you a level which is a lifesaver when you're shooting landscapes because I've never shot a level shot without needing some kind of help you can also use the disk button to change the display when you have your eye up to the viewfinder just hold it up to your eye and then push it and you will see it switch between those different modes frequently asked question you cannot see a histogram and the level at the same time you kind of have to switch between them you can customize a couple of aspects of it though hit the menu button go to the camera tap - and then go over to page seven the first option here is dis button so you can select it for either the monitor which is this screen or the finder which is your electronic viewfinder and then you can turn on or off different modes so if you never want to see display all info you can just turn that off and never have to see it again I'm going to select monitor off and then press enter you can't simply hit the shutter button to get out of there or won't take I'll hit enter and now if I hit the disp button to go to monitor off it turns off the rear screen entirely this is really useful when shooting in dark environments like if you're shooting a club or a show and the rear screen is so blindingly bright that it's attracting attention to you disturbing the people around you or just throwing off your night vision turn it off and then you can hold your eye up to use the viewfinder you're basically turning off the rear display and only using the viewfinder this is also good if you find that the viewfinder is constantly switching between the rear screen and the electronic viewfinder because it has that sort of auto detect thing going on so sometimes I just like to turn it off it doesn't actually save you batteries it turns out the electronic viewfinder generally burns more batteries than the rear screen the menu systems on the sony are a nightmare as a guy who was a developer and used to create user interfaces it's like an example of what not to do i will try to give you my best practices for living with this chaotic crazy menu system first of all you should know it is not a touchscreen you can't swipe or any of that there is no searching you just have to go page by page by page through unsorted menu items when you want to find them the item that you want there's a little bit of help like the trashcan here the trashcan button will tell you a little bit about that menu item and sometimes that helps to give you a clue but it's not great when you push it here it gives you some help but it's always text it doesn't visually show you something and also the descriptions are often completely useless like if I select s and Q settings and hit the trashcan it says sets s and Q motion settings but you that would be a good opportunity to tell you what s in queue met right no they don't they don't do that so I tell you it's there but it's rarely useful you're probably better pulling up that link for the PDF of the manual and searching through it something that helps tremendously is to use my menu once you get into the menu system here go to the star tab this allows you to create a custom menu with your most frequently used settings select the first item here add item and then you can flip through so many different pages of settings to find those things that you most frequently access and you know how you shoot better than anybody else in the world so as you use an option add it to my menu the first time you have to dig through the whole menu system to find some obscure option go ahead and add it to my menu I wish I had like a recently used items or frequently used items it's not smart like that you just have to manually add it to it I also suggest using the FN button here and customizing it you can customize all of these and I'll show you how to do that hit the menu button here go over to the camera - and then scroll over to page 9 function menu set select that and now you can go through here and select those settings that you most frequently use for example I don't ever change the metering mode so I could select that and then change it to something that I found to be more useful and for example I do change peaking on a regular basis so I'll set that to peak and then instead of having to dig through the menus to find peak next time I'll be able to just hit function and then jump right to turning peaking on for those settings that you're accessing most frequently assign them to a custom button that's done from the same menu hit menu here and go up to you'll see three custom key menu items that are different only by the icon that they use the first is custom keys when you're shooting stills the second is custom keys when you're reviewing pictures and the third is custom keys when you're working in the video mode so when I'm shooting stills I'll select that I never change the white balance because I always shoot raw do it manually anyway so I never need to use c1 as the white balance setting so I select that and what I set it to is aps-c 35 full-frame select so now I've customized that I can immediately switch to aps-c mode by pushing that button you can see it's cropping in the picture giving me a little bit more digital zoom at the touch of a finger and if you follow those tips and read the manual you can actually learn to live with the Sony menu system let's talk about turning on raw by default this camera is set to shoot JPEG which is a highly compressed format JPEGs throw out a lot of valuable highlight and shadow information JPEGs are fine for most shooting situations and if you're shooting sports or some kind of action where you're taking a whole lot of pictures the smaller file size of JPEGs can actually be a big benefit but for other situations like landscapes maybe weddings you might want to shoot raw to turn on raw hit the menu button it's on the very first menu here you'll see file format such a JPEG by default set it to raw or if you might want to use the JPEG files for something you can set it to raw plus JPEG raw plus JPEG is actually kind of nice because like Lightroom's processing of the raw files I often like it less than Sony's own internal processing so often I do just want to start with a jpg file and make my life a little bit easier but really I'm probably in RAW most of the time the next option down is raw file type and you can choose between either compressed or uncompressed compressed files are about half the size of the uncompressed raw files and the uncompressed raw files are huge they're both huge but the uncompressed is twice as big these are not losslessly compressed files so the compressed files are smaller but you will occasionally see artifacts in areas of extreme contrast so if you're shooting stars you should be shooting uncompressed because some stars could disappear if you're shooting like a backlit scene inside of a church or something the compressor raw file might introduce a few artifacts that would be solved with the uncompressed raw file but again I pretty much always leave it in straw file just to reduce my file sizes a little bit I briefly talked about the aps-c super 35 mode what this mode does is it crops the sensor down 1.5 times to be the same surface area as an aps-c camera like the Sony a 64 hundred or a 6600 this is not something you want to do on a daily basis it's usually better to use the full width of the sensor however when I'm shooting sports and I'm usually shooting with a 70 to 200 if the team is on the other side of the field and I need more reach I will switch into aps-c mode in order to crop down and get that little bit of extra reach it is exactly like cropping impost but by cropping in camera I see the cropped view in my viewfinder which helps me compose it also the cropped files are smaller so they record faster to the cards and I'm not wasting as much SD card space or a drive space if I was going to have to crop it anyway aps-c mode is also used for wildlife where you're often cropping so earlier I showed you how to assign it to a custom function key and that allows you to pretty instantly switch like this one caveat here is if you're shooting continuously and the camera buffers then you're going to get this unable to write to memory card and then you have to wait for the entire buffer to clear before you can switch again so what's happened when I was shooting sports is I'll be shooting some intense action in aps-c mode and then Oh the game starts to get close to me and I need to switch back to wide and I can't switch so just be aware of that and when in doubt shoot at the wider setting if you think you might suddenly need to switch back so that you're not caught off guard you can manually change this from the menu system by going to camera one page one the last item here it's set to auto by default but you can turn it on or off to make sure that it never switches over auto will allow you to put on aps-c lenses something designed for an a 6500 and use them as if you were using an aps-c camera but there's no real reason to ever do that you should be using full-frame lenses if using this big old body I'll say when it crops the resulting files are 28 mega pixels that's the full resolution 61 megapixels divided by the crop 1.5 squared so 61 divided by two point two five yields twenty eight megapixel files let's talk about the focus magnifier which zooms in while you're taking a picture I find this super super useful especially when manually focus on thinking when doing macro photography or Astro photography here's how you set it up to a custom key I'm gonna hit the menu button here I'm going to go to the custom key settings which are on camera tab 2 page 9 and then I'm gonna select custom key and what I assign it to is the trashcan button because I never need to change the touch operation I always leave that to tracking so I'm going to go to page 14 here and set it to focus magnifier so now as I'm viewing the screen let's focus on that and then if I want to zoom in to verify the focus well okay first I have to get it out of AFC and let's put it into manual focus but this is probably a scenario where I'd be using manual focus I'll push the trashcan I can move this where I want to focus around using the thumbstick and then when I'm ready I will hit the center button here and now it moves in and now I can really finally control the focusing so I absolutely nail focus so that's exactly what I do when I'm looking at stars pushing the center button again zooms in even tighter so now I'm at eleven point nine times just giving me that much more precision let's talk about reviewing photos that you've taken obviously you hit the play button down here and then you can scroll back here's a photo I took for a local park that I'm working for if they hit the disc button here you can see it changes the view provides me histogram information if I wanted as well as my settings just like in the regular mode I can also zoom in no you can't use your fingers you think you could but you can't that instead you'll hit the AF on button up here has a little magnifying glass next to it that zooms into a moderate distance you can zoom in further we can back out with the AEL button once you're zoomed in you can pan around with your finger but you cannot pinch or pull like that so it's a little bit clumsy to go to when you're zoomed all the way back you can hit the AEL button to zoom back even further and go to a thumbnail view or even a calendar view to just help you navigate photos a little bit quicker and then you'll punch in again by zooming in like that you can review your pictures either using the rear screen or by holding the camera up to your eye I find the viewfinder to be much easier especially in bright situations so I can really double check that I nailed focus and everything is sharp that's something you want to review your pictures more often with this camera than with any other camera because the 61 megapixels means your mistakes will be much more obvious if your camera was a little bit shaky if you miss focus by a tiny amount it will be so much more obvious because of all that extra detail so make a point of double-checking your pictures more often after you take them I love to rate my pictures in the field because it improves my overall workflow so if I'm doing a portrait shoot and this one picture had just like the perfect expression but I took a thousand pictures and I don't want to dig through those thousand pictures to find that one picture well while I'm reviewing it in the studio I will immediately rate it and I'll rate it like four stars then when I import it into Lightroom I can just filter out everything but the four star photos and I'll be able to quickly find my picture here's how I set up the camera to rate quickly while reviewing pictures I'll hit the menu button here I'll go to camera tab - I'll select the third custom key menu item this is for reviewing pictures and then for item 1 which is c3 up here it's set to protect by default I'll select it and then I will select rating instead and by default it lets me select all five possible star ratings and that's fine now I will select Enter so now when I'm reviewing pictures let's say I love this picture I can select see three four times to make it four stars five times four five stars or I can just keep going through zero through five stars to give it the rating I want thus making post-processing and cooling much much faster especially for times when you quickly want to get pictures up on social media shortly after an event some people like to automatically review their pictures this camera is not set to automatically review after you're taking pictures if you want that hit the menu button go up to camera tab - we're going to go over to page eight and then select Auto review and set it to two seconds five seconds or 10 seconds Auto review definitely wastes a lot of batteries and I don't often use it I don't mind hitting the play button but it there are situations where I always want to view the picture so I do sometimes turn it on I'm not going to cover things like aperture shutter manual mode but if you want more details about them you can check out the tutorials we have here they're fairly obvious these links are all taking you to free videos that go super in-depth about things like picking the perfect aperture shutter speed and ISO as well as getting the most out of manual mode who make it as easy as possible if you ever shoot in a studio with strobes where strobes are your main lights you will find this camera by default is incredibly frustrating to use because you are using manual mode and you're using manual ISO but the lights aren't on while you're previewing a picture and thus your viewfinder will typically be very dark there's one setting that you have to change that will make the operation more like a traditional DSLR where you're looking through the viewfinder but not seeing an attempted preview of the exposure to change it into what I call studio mode hit the menu button go up to the camera to tab go down to page eight and then go down to live view display by default it's set to setting effect on select that and then select setting effect off with setting effect off if I adjust the exposure compensation you can see the preview of the display does not change that is bad for normal shooting but if you're shooting with strobes where the strobes aren't firing constantly then it's a very good thing because it allows you to still see through the viewfinder and use it so when I'm not shooting in the studio I always have setting effect set to on Bald mode allows you to take exposures for longer than the normal maximum of 30 seconds I'm gonna show you how to do that first of all you put the camera into manual mode you would want to manually set the ISO let's say it to ISO 100 or whatever it is that you're doing and then adjust the shutter speed all the way left once I get to 30 seconds I'm just going to go one click further and oh look it's not letting me go any further it's not letting me select ball mode this is weird but it's because I have the drive mode set to continuous in order to select ball mode you have to switch to single shooting shutter so I set it to single shooting shutter and now I can scroll left and switch over into bulb mode again now the shutter will stay open as long as I hold my finger on the shutter if I hold it down for five seconds it takes the five-second exposure if I hold my finger on the shutter for ten minutes it takes a 10 minute exposure I don't want to stand there for 10 minutes with my finger on the shutter though so what you do is you get a locking remote trigger like this $12 USB gadget here that you can pick up at this link this is my favorite one because it does not require batteries so it's one more thing that can't fail this is micro USB so you will connect it to the micro USB connector on the bottom left behind this little weather sealed door that remote locking shutter is also useful for shooting star trails meteors and lightning in those situations I'll typically set the camera to shoot like five or ten second exposures and then lock the shutter open I'll leave it in continuous mode so the camera is just basically taking eternally taking pictures at five or ten second intervals with absolutely no delay between them and then I will just pick the pictures that have lightning in them or combine everything together for star trails those are both techniques I discuss in stunning digital photography if you want more info but if you're going to do that you should turn off long exposure noise reduction long exposure noise reduction will take a blank frame after every frame like if you take a 30-second exposure it'll then take a blank 30-second exposure and combine it but as a result your star trails would end up with these big gaps so be sure to turn off long exposure noise reduction it's on camera tab 1 page 2 long exposure noise reduction is set to OFF now I always leave that off by the way if your shooting stars this is my favorite Astro photography lens it's the Sigma 14 millimeter f-18 for Sony e-mount it is incredibly big and heavy but it's the fastest widest lens available and they find it to be very very sharp it's really only good for manual focus the auto focus is there but it's very very flaky I also like Sigma's 20 millimeter f-14 art lens which is just not quite as wide like I use the 20 millimeter for regular stars and I'll use the 14 millimeter for Astro but this camera so high megapixel it's pretty easy to shoot at 14 and then crop down here's a couple of tips for using the LCD and the electronic if you find err first let's get into the menu system and go over to camera tab 2 page 7 here under finder slash monitor if I select that I can have it manually stuck to either the viewfinder or the monitor so if you find it switching between both of those and in an annoying way then set it to one or the other for example if I'm shooting landscapes I might be on a tripod and I'll be making adjustments with my hand and you can kind of see see how the monitor is turning on and off just because my thumb kind of went in front of it that gets to be really infuriating sometimes it'll even be triggered by the screen depending on the lighting conditions or it'll be triggered by a strap or something so in those situations I'll go in and set it to monitor manual so it's not automatically switching back and forth another option you might want to set is on the same page right below it finder framerate I will typically set this to high this just gives you a faster refresh on the electronic viewfinder up here which makes tracking moving subjects a little bit easier and burns through a little extra battery once again I want to plug my stuff because these videos are really hard you probably already hear my voice falling apart but we do it for you and we appreciate your support you can pick up some of our photography educational materials these are all books that we made ourselves in house not run through any other publisher I have a big pallet in my garage at these bucks we literally do this stuff ourselves sending digital photography the number one photography book in the world has more than 14 hours of video we have video books on Lightroom and Photoshop for all your post-processing needs with tons of free video training in in them the photography buying guide and of course our art in science and portrait a professional training series you can pick them all up at SDP Iowa slash store they start at just 10 bucks it's super cheap especially because I know you just bought like three to five hundred dollar camera don't be a cheapskate let's talk about the different shutter modes available for almost everything I just use continuous shutter which just takes pictures like bang bang bang bang bang bang but when you get into this mode you'll see there are a couple of different options the default is continuous shooting high which will shoot at I think 8 frames per second but there's also high plus which shows that I think 10 frames per second the difference between these is high plus does not show you a real-time view of the world through the viewfinder it shows you the last picture you took so you could potentially be looking at a scene that's a little more than a tenth of a second behind if you're shooting stationary batterer who's swinging a bat switched high plus that extra few frames per second will be helpful to you in capturing that one decisive moment and you don't have to be following a moving subject with the viewfinder if you're shooting a flying bird you're going to be happier in high mode because you just you'll be able to see that real-time view if you are trying to track a flying bird with a really big telephoto lens you will find that you fall behind the subject because you are seeing a delayed view through the viewfinder you can also set a self timer here by selecting the third option scroll to the left or right for two second five second or 10 second delays two second is useful if you're on a tripod and you just are using the regular shutter button and you want to eliminate the shutter sit shake five seconds is what I use for pixel shift which I'll discuss in just a minute because then you'd set extra delay and then ten seconds is good for selfies where you're setting the camera and then running around in front of the camera you can also do continuous bracketing the fifth option down this allows you to shoot at multiple different exposures so that you can combine them in post to create high dynamic range results bracketing and then combining into HDR greatly improves the dynamic range allowing you to pull more detail out of highlights and shadows it also effectively reduces the noise in the scene you can do it using either hand holding techniques or on a tripod the way I combine them is with Adobe's photo merge in Lightroom classic not Lightroom cc but Lightroom classic it works extremely well it handles it automatically with almost no work from me it will even eliminate ghosting check our deal with Adobe out at SDIO slash Adobe deal and again don't get Lightroom cc get Lightroom a classic this camera will buffer it has a very big buffer against where a lot of pictures but it will eventually fill up so it's useful to keep track of how many shots you have left in the buffer we get this in two shutter priority mode in order to keep an eye on how many shots you have left on the buffer you can turn on a continuous shooting length hit the menu button go to camera tab to page eight can't shoot length select that and then select shoot only display now I'm going to shoot continuously here and show you what kind of what goes on now see along the left side here how that lights up as I'm shooting continuously it's the bars getting smaller and smaller and when it gets all the way down to the bottom that's when my camera starts buffering and slowing down keep an eye on that when you're shooting action and you'll be able to manage your buffer a little bit better and it will be less likely that you're going to run out a buffer space I'll mention even with top-end UHS 2 cards it takes a long time for the buffer to unload and when you're doing that you can enter the menu system but you can't change very many settings so if you get into the situation where oh my god all my settings are blocked out that's why and you can see as soon as the buffer cleared those settings come back and available so just be a little bit patient they seminar 4 has a time lapse feature built into it and intervalometer will take pictures at a regular interval to use that hit the menu button go to camera tab 1 go over to page 3 and then select interval shoot func now there's a bunch of settings here starting with interval shooting which will turn 2 on and then you'll set the shooting interval how long you want to wait until it actually starts the number of shots that it takes I was at the number of shots to like 9,000 and then I just let it keep shooting as long as I feel like it then when I'm done with it I will just turn it off I've never like shot a time-lapse and thought I had too many pictures it's always slick I didn't take enough pictures so I try to let it go just as long as I can if you're shooting a game of golf or you're a photojournalist and you need to shoot a funeral or if you're shooting a quiet moment of the wedding and you don't want to be that guy with the loud shutter turn on silent shooting uses the electronic shutter and it's incredibly useful hit the menu button here go up to camera tab to page 5 and then the top menu item here is silent shooting turn it to on now when I take pictures it doesn't make any noise don't use that for portraits by the way your model will be like Lindsey gonna take a picture the audible sound of the mechanical shutter is really useful one downside to the electronic shutter is some amount of rolling shutter if you're shooting fast-moving action the camera records the action from the top of the picture to the bottom of the picture so if for example you're panning quickly a straight line will turn into a diagonal line because the bottom of the picture is recorded slightly after the top of the picture the mechanical shutter eliminates those effects the electronic shutter is silent but does have the rolling shutter effect so pretty much used the mechanical shutter whenever possible the noose is silent shutter only when necessary let's talk about adapting lenses here sometimes you might want to use your Canon lenses for example like the Canon 24 270 f28 is kind of a sharper lens than the Sony version at least that's what our testing is found with our copies so I adapt them with our meta bones mark 4 or mark 5 adapter they're essentially identical they cost about 400 bucks my favorite adapter is the Sigma MC 11 which you can pick up at this link it's actually it's only like 200 bucks we used to use the meta moans the Sigma is actually a little bit better in all situations and does okay you will find a native Sony glass always works better than the adapted canon glass if you are going to use a dumb adapter other than these or you're going to use a lens for example some Chinese manufacturer lens that doesn't have electronics built into it there are two settings that you'll want to adjust for one you'll need to turn the camera into the release without lens mode which is under camera tab 2 page 5 released without lens turn that to enable if it's set to disable that it should be set to sit enabled by default also go down to steady shot settings and you will have to set the steady shot focal length to match the focal length of the lens by default the camera will automatically pick up the focal length if you use native Sony glass or smart adapters but if you're manually adapting on to manually set that in order to get the camera's stabilization to work effectively with the lens I like to set the copyright information in my cameras it just embed some metadata and your pictures your pictures are copyrighted at least in the United States no matter what you do but I have some fantasy where I lose my camera and then somebody identifies my camera by looking at the copyright info so I always go into the copyright info here and set right copyright info - on and then I set the photographer and I manually type my name out I'm sorry for the user interface here if you texted in like the 90s it kind of works like that where if you want type O you have to hit this three times and then you have to go that and then yeah so I'm not gonna keep doing them just gonna leave it set so the ton you get the idea if you want to format your card if you've taken all your pictures off and your cards full you can do that by hitting the menu button here going to set up five little toolbox and then going down to format you'll select the card that you want to use and then confirm a word of warning if you have saved custom settings to the card formatting will erase those so you might have to do this in a different way by manually removing all of the pictures I'm not going to get in depth about shooting video with this camera but I will give you a couple of tips it's all pretty straightforward first up with the mode dial into the movie mode here which allows me to preview it in sixteen by nine I'll point out that there is no AF s in movie mode either you're an AF C where it's continuously continually focusing or you're in manual mode if you are in AF s in like aperture priority where you're shooting stills and you start recording the camera will switch into continuous focusing mode and continuous focusing is not very smooth it will jump around and it will arbitrarily jump around even if you're recording a still subject so for that reason I highly recommend using manual focus anytime you're doing video here so switch to manual focus and then use your custom trashcan button here to zoom in closely and manually focus only use AF C when you're actually tracking a moving subject otherwise it gets a little bit erratic if you're on a tripod turn off steady shot inside because steady shot when handheld even can get a little bit weird steady shot inside moves the sensor to try to cancel out any camera shake and it can help in some situations but it can also do like a weird warp II thing so I've had a couple like serious shoots where I was trying to get a little clip and then I realize oh my god everything looks really warp II to turn that off you go into the menu system and then it's camera to page five steady shot and you'll set that to off to change the format of your video you'll go to camera two and then page one and there are a couple of options here file format here allows you to pick between HD and 4k there's probably no need to ever use AVC HD so just I was shooting 4k whenever I can 4k is limited to 30 P either at a hundred megabits per second or 60 megabits per second the higher bitrate will have a little bit less compression which can help in like smooth gradients takes up more space but the video quality is a little bit better so you can kind of choose your own compromise there you can also shoot slow motion at 120 frames per second here that's like 4 or 5 times slow motion to do that either you can switch to HD mode and then change the record setting to 120 or you can go down to s and Q settings choose the record setting this is just a bit of metadata that's recorded in the file this is what you plan to play it back at and then change the frame rate usually you'd be at 120 frames per second if you're shooting slow-mo because why would you record slower once you've set the s and Q settings you will change the mode dial to s and Q and so now the camera is ready to record in s and Q slow-motion mode you can also adjust the audio levels while recording video so that the menu button here that's under camera tab - page - ah you smq does not have audio and as a result you can't do it but i will switch back into regular video mode and go back into that same mode you can see out of your recording it's not set to on and now you can see i'm seeing my levels here and i can select this and kind of raise or lower the levels usually it like the loudest sounds to be just like kind of in the right 2/3 there so these levels are actually about right for where I am now focus peaking highlights in focus parts of the bring really high contrast parts of the frame it's easier to show you then to tell you about it to turn it on I'll hit the menu button I'll go up to camera tap one and then page 14 and then I'm gonna select peaking setting peaking display I'm going to set to on peaking level I always have it at low and then peaking color to something that contrasts the same so for example if the scene is all monochrome like the screen here red might be a good peaking color so now that I have focus peaking turned on let's hit that trashcan button and I'll zoom in tight and then as I kind of manually focus through here let me switch it over to manual focus mode zooming in and now you can kind of see as this gets to being in focus you can see like this edge of the e here is kind of turning red this helps me know that I'm approximately in focus folks speaking is never as accurate as zooming in but I use focus peaking to get me close and then I punch in to really nail accurate focus so pretty much only use this when doing manual focus for either video or macro photography zebras mark bright parts of the frame so that you know for example where 70 percent or a hundred percent brightness is in the scene that can help you make sure that nothing's overexposed or it can just help you nail exposure on things like skin tones if you set it to one or seventy percent so to turn on zebras let's hit the menu button we'll go to camera tab to page seven and then zebra setting I will turn zebra display on and you could see by default it's set to 70 that's like the standard and film for what you would expose skin tones at so as I'm adjusting the exposure conversation and the exposure is kind of passing pass passing through 70% you can see the parts of the frame that are right about 70% are shown in zebra so if I were using this to get to guide my skin exposure settings I would adjust it until the skin was in the stripy levels if I were to set the zebras to 100 I could then verify and see just the parts of the frame that were actually over exposed so different uses for different use case scenarios know the setting I want to point out is anti flicker shooting sometimes you'll see flicker in places that have artificial lights like LED lighting because the camera itself is not synched to the lights anti flicker shooting can delay shooting just a little bit so that the shutter is firing at the same time that the lights are pulsing on because pretty much all lights are pulsing on and off with the electrical rate at wherever you happen to be so to turn anti flicker shooting on something you only want to turn on if you are having a problem with it go to camera page 1 page 15 and then anti flicker shooting and set it to pixel shift is a specialized mode that takes multiple pictures shifting the sensor 1 pixel between every exposure the previous a7r 3 had a four shot pixel shift mode that served to simply eliminate moiré this camera also has that 4 shot mode the ace of an hour 4 also introduces a 16 shot pixel shift mode that takes four of those 4 shots the sequences shifted half a pixel each to quadruple the 16 megapixel standard resolution to 240 megapixels in our testing with the 16 to 35 f28 GM lenses produced incredibly detailed images that people could see in big prints so this is a mode I would love to use all the time but I can't pixel shift is almost impossible to use in a real world scenario it is I've never successfully taken an outdoor shot with pixel shift in the city forget about it subways cars people walking that's enough to shake the camera too much even in the countryside I found large brick stone buildings are moving so much imperceptible to the eye but they're moving so much that it screws up all of my pictures I've heard it can work with large mountains that have no trees on them but I haven't had the chance to test test this of course any sort of movement in the frame causes this weird kind of like hashtag looking effects in your processed picture so in summary you want all those megapixels but you can't have them unless you're shooting like a still-life or product photography and even then I've only I have had limited success shooting on the first floor of my house if I shoot in the basement on a concrete floor with nobody else walking near me and I'm holding perfectly still then I have close to a hundred percent success but if I go to the first floor of my house with nobody near me but maybe the wind is moving the house a little bit then my success ratio drops to about 50% either way when you're shooting pixel shift you'll want to take a lot of pictures to make sure that one is effective here's my process for using pixel shift first of all go into the menu system go to camera tab 1 page 3 you'll see pixel shift multi shoot set this to probably the 16 shot mode why not at least try it right you can always process those photos using the 4 shot technique and the Sony software later if that's your choice so turn that on and this will immediately change you to single shot from continuous shutter and if you're in AF C it will switch you to AF ass you cannot use continuous shutter or AFS when you switch back those settings will not revert to your previous settings so you will need to manually revert to those settings now that pixel shift is turned on and attach the camera to a very heavy tripod and tighten everything down put it on the sturdiest floor that you can indoors basement with no movement anywhere near it set the shutter delay to 5 or 10 seconds or use the remote shutter trigger that I mention earlier instead of just taking one series of 16 shots take five or take 10 for every one shot that you want to get because as I mentioned I have a low success ratio here any sort of movement during the entire 16 shot sequence will ruin the entire thing and result in weird hashtag e looking things when you're done you can go back in to the menu system turn pixel shift back off now go back in and change your shutter to continuous shutter if that's what you use and continuous focusing if that's what you use because it does not remember those settings when you import the pictures onto your computer remember each 16 shot picture is a 6 takes up 2 gigabytes of space so if you shoot 10 in a row to get one right you need 20 gigabytes of storage I do not use the Sony imaging edge viewer app you can use the Sony app but I do not like it what I find much better is the pixel shift to G D and G app which is currently free it will automatically go through an entire folder of pictures find every pixel shift group and then stack them into a D and G a raw file that you can import directly into Lightroom that gives you full raw capabilities without having to use Sony's app and it's just faster so check it out at SDP dot io / PSD and G if there is some motion in the frame for example if you just successfully got a landscape shot but you want to take out the moving leaves then take a single one of those exposures they'll each be written as a separate file and blend it back in it's important to note that the camera self does not process these into a single file and if something goes wrong like there's camera shake it does not tell you about it we have customized so many different settings you probably wouldn't want to lose all of those settings so it's really useful that Sony is now allowing you to write all the settings to a DAT file on your SD card to save your settings hit the menu item go to the toolbox go to page 7 and then do save load settings select save and then it will allow you to create a new setting which it will call camps at 0 something so you can save camp sides 1 2 3 4 once you've saved those you can put your SD card into a computer and go in and renamed those files with up to 8 characters and dat so you can see that's how I have Tony and pixel shift and then basic those are three settings that I've customized that I regularly fall back to basic is almost the default settings and I use that for troubleshooting in case something is going wrong Tony is my regular shooting style and then pixel shift is when I want to shoot in pixel shift mode because I do things like set up a delayed shutter and I find it easier to load the settings from the memory card then I do to manually change all of them once I'm done with pixel shift I will load the Tony settings again since pixel shift does change several settings if you want to try out my settings on your camera including all my customizations use the link that's shown on the screen here and you'll be able to download them if you save your own custom settings I suggest you back up those settings because formatting the memory card will erase them and at some point you're probably going to do that accidentally when you save these settings it does not save the custom my menu those things are not safe when you load them it does not overwrite them so my menu is not affected by loading or saving of those custom settings Wi-Fi on this camera allows you to communicate from the camera to your smartphone sony presumes to make this pretty easy you can follow the instructions on the camera and you might have some luck with that to follow the instructions on the camera hit the menu button go up to the globe icon here and then select send to smart phone func select that select send a smart phone I usually prefer to select them on the smart phone and then it's going to show you a QR code in theory the way this works is you pull out your phone's camera take a picture of the QR code and then everything just kind of connects up so this is my iPhone it detected the QR code and then I can open this up I have had no luck with this and in fact now it opened up a search for w01 so maybe they will fix these bugs I have tried NFC the QR code thing I've tried several different ways to get it to work and none of them have worked here is the technique that works reliably for me I pull up this screen as I just did you can see it's showing me the the network name so I'll go into my settings I'll select Wi-Fi here and then I will select that network from the list on my camera I will press the trashcan button to view the password and I will manually type this password and then I will click join you can see the camera detects this it starts up the sharing now I want to open up the imaging edge app which I've been previously installed it's Sony imaging edge you can see it says connected with camera okay that's good so if I select this now I can actually view the pictures you can see the red light here is blinking cuz it's reading stuff from the memory card from there you can also save the pictures can I just tell you this app is so bad like now that I'm in the viewing picture thing there doesn't seem to be any way to get out of it it has like two stars in the app store it's not good sony has promised oh okay wait back just appeared it wasn't there before okay no no nevermind so kick it out Sony's promised to update this app so I hope they will update it okay let's reconnect I killed the app and ended the connection here and restarted it you can see this time-in had saved my password so connecting was much easier I'll restart up the imaging edge app now I'll show you how to remotely control your camera from a smartphone this might be good if you want to frame up a picture from the menu go to the little globe icon and then select control with smartphone control a smartphone turn to on then you select connection and it will do the same thing we just did now my phone I'm going to go into Wi-Fi it might automatically connect or it might not there it is now I'll switch back to the imaging edge app and I got a disconnected message disconnected okay it's after two disconnected you can see I'm now officially connected and able to remotely control my smart phone for what it is you cannot touch to select a focusing point or touch to focus at all and for some reason my camera's not focusing but you can take pictures by pushing the shutter button okay there I slid it over and started taking pictures that's generally how it works you can see it's just terrible so what I suggest instead if you want to transfer pictures to your smart phone is use an SD card reader you can get these for Android devices with either micro USB or USB see by using these two links here or for iPhones iPads and such with the Thunderbolt connector head to SD P dot io / Apple SD use your JPEG files here because they will transfer much faster and then I import them if I'm on my phone using Lightroom mobile available for both Android and iPhone you can get it at stp io / Adobe deal this camera also supports Bluetooth and it works about as well as the Wi-Fi which is to say you can make it work and when I've gone through the trouble to set up bluetooth for example to do location linking which will tag my photos with GPS that sounds great I went through this trouble in Iceland and it tagged literally two pictures and then it stopped tagging but the whole rest of the trip it was trying to communicate and I was dealing with error messages on my phone about location linking and all this and it drained my battery to the point where my camera died and my smartphone battery died and it didn't tag any other pictures so for that reason I do not recommend fooling with Bluetooth at least until they update the app or the firmware to work a little bit better I've covered so many settings in this tutorial some things I suggest not touching RAF micro adjustments don't bother it's a mirrorless camera that really doesn't get screwed up don't use pre AF don't adjust the color space from sRGB unless you absolutely have a good reason to do so and never ever use face registration that's left over from like a long time ago and it sucks here are my suggestions for lenses the Sony is 16 to 35 f 280 GM is my absolute favorite lens it is so remarkably sharp it's portable it's fantastic for just events and landscapes and if you pop it into aps-c mode and crop down you can get 250 millimeters and so be at 28 megapixels it's just such a great lens pick it up at this link here that 24 to 70 f28 is kind of the standard walking around lens and it's 2200 bucks but you kind of need it if you're doing this kind of program work and completing the Holy Trinity the 7200 f2a we find this ons to be excellent it's great for sports and portraits both if you get into a casual wildlife stuff for more distant sports the 100 400 lens is even sharper than the 780 200 it focuses even better it's just generally an overall better lens except that it's f56 instead of f28 I mentioned for astrophotography my love with the Sigma 14 millimeter and 20 millimeter arts you can pick it up at this lens here and if you're serious about wildlife the a7 r4 is actually awesome at it with its huge 60 megapixel sensor you can collect more data more just detail on wildlife than ever possible using the 600 f/4 lens and probably the 1.4 or 2 x teleconverter they both work pretty well I'll pick it up at SDP dot io / Sony 600 it's 13,000 bucks but if you let spear serious or Wildlife people do that don't buy the Sony flashes I don't love them and said I am bought into the god Ock system known as flash born in the US there are a few different names that these kind of Chinese lights go by they actually work great and they work with a ride wide variety of cameras in case you switch systems at some point for an on or off camera flash this setup is 225 bucks it works better than any Sony system we've tested check it out at that link there and if you want actual studio strobes check out the got ox strobe system especially the flashpoint Explorer 600 plural Pro known as the gothics 600 Pro these are bigger than flashes but they allow you to attach soft boxes and beauty dishes and strip lights and all sorts of more complex lighting modifiers that you would want for any sort of studio photography my favorite two tripods the bfree tripod is only a couple of hundred bucks it's a great general tripod that we've been recommending for like a decade but lately we've been trying to get so series 0 and series one especially for travel photography and they're like a thousand bucks but they are built so nice they feel so good in your hand so I mean you did spend thirty five hundred bucks on a camera I thought I would suggest it one nice thing about Galax is they have a specialized quick-release plate which has this little edge here which hooks under the bottom of the camera and stops a quick-release plate from twisting which in the real world is just this very like practical but simple feature that I really love and one final plug for my stuff first subscribe to the channel it's free give me a like if you have other suggestions on how to get the most out of your sony a7r 4 write a comment down below if you just want to express sympathy for the loss of my voice I appreciate your kind words and check out my book stunning digital photography the number-one photography book on or with more than 14 hours of video are books on Lightroom and Photoshop and of course our art and science video training series which is more detailed and deeper than we could possibly get into in YouTube and if you want to make money with all your expensive gear check out my pro portrait training series which is more than just taking portraits it's about the business of portrait photography you can pick all those up at Northrop photo or go to Amazon and search for my name tony Northup thanks so much and bye

Channel: Tony & Chelsea Northrup

Views: 353,330

Keywords: sony, sony a7r4, sony a7r iv, a7r4, a7r iv, a7r 4, a7r mk iv, tutorial, overview, lesson, a7r4 tutorial, a7r 4 tutorial, a7r iv tutorial, a7r 4 guide, a7r iv guide, a7r4 guide, a7r 4 user guide, a7r4 user guide, a7r iv user guide, a7r 4 user manual, a7r4 user manual, a7r iv user manual, a7r4 video tutorial, a7r iv video tutorial, a7r 4 video tutorial, tony northrup, sony a7r4 video guide, sony a7r iv video guide, sony a7r 4 video guide

Id: KiY7rwq0i00

Length: 73min 57sec (4437 seconds)

Published: Wed Sep 11 2019