Machine a Dovetail Indicator Holder TIPS #410 tubalcain

how old he is tubal-cain once again welcome back to the shop and thanks for supporting my channel if you have not watched this video please do so because what I'm doing now is more or less a continuation of that and in just a going further on it as it is my want to do but if you recall I had made these two long time ago these are the ones that was ashamed of and one of them I had even forgotten about but he's fit right on to an Elora Stipe quick change tool post and they're your indicators always ready to go when these are dedicated indicators well I scrapped this just save the indicators off them and in the last video you'll remember that I did this blue indicator holder that attaches into the allures and that can be used as is you know it's perfectly solid and and usable that way however I did take it one step farther and make one out of aluminum like this in the last video the indicator of course goes on here this is available on Tinkercad as I told you and that's mentioned in the previous video so that aside let me move on to the subject of this video well after making this and it was a big success there's there's nothing wrong with this other than it does tie up one of your tool holders here Lloris type tool holders although they aren't very expensive but if you have a budget maybe you do not want to do this and then Kevin Pietersen contacted me out of the clear blue sky and he's an expert at fusion 360 so thank you Kevin and we have a collaboration so he went into fusion and made this for me and I will show you the link that this is available on Thingiverse and you can print it out and it'll look just like this and it's ready to use and it will hold this size indicator which I've talked about in the other videos so this is a all-in-one so you got your dovetail here and it's ready to go the hole is printed right in there and then this is of course for people that have 3d printers the counterbore is printed and even the thread is printed in and ready to go although I had to run a tap and there just to clean it a little bit and then I put a stud on there along with knurled not that I made and I'm not going to talk much about that but let me go over to the milling to the lathe now and put this on there show you what it looks like on the lathe you notice in the final version here Kevin even included the AXA and he's going to have this available in a B also if you go on to Thingiverse if you have the B size now if you have trouble fitting this on in your slicer and I'm using Kira you can enlarge it you see this one was just a little tight so you can enlarge it just slightly and play around with that and and get it to move freely this is even a little bit snug but it's just fine and that's how it fits and this is ready to use and this is so handy for doing setup work on the lathe and you just set it on your lathe and dedicate that indicator and it's always ready to go and it's so compact that's what I like about it you don't have to worry about a indicator hold or a magnetic on the smaller lays it can be bothersome but maybe that's just me so anyway go to Thingiverse print that out if you like and again thank you Kevin so much for this project and I intend to do more with him I hope if he's got the time I believe I showed this on the last video but I'm not positive so I had already made one of these the prototype if you will out of aluminum and you certainly could make it out of steel if you had a notion but there really is no need but this was the basis for what Kevin did and our collaboration so the original design was mine and he modified it and did what he needed to do and improved it greatly so that looked like this and what I'm gonna do in this video I'm finally getting down to the point here in this video is I'm going to make one of these pretty much to these dimensions and there will be no blueprint and this will be project for you if you want to now notice on this one I printed out a bunch of these and you could print it solid but this is I think 20 percent fill a few 3d printer people know what I'm talking about but I pretty this particular one at 100 point two percent and that gave me just a little bit larger dovetail and then I printed some other ones let's say there's one that was and that was five hours that's the first one oh there was the final one I think one hundred point five percent and that gave me a better fit on the tool post so I would recommend doing that but of course you're gonna have to experiment a little bit as we always do so now on to the aluminum one and thank you one more time - Kevin and by the way that's how the whole prints out and you knock out that plug that's the support well naturally I don't have a piece of aluminum big enough other than the scrap no this was sent to me by my friend Dave from st. Louis and I believe these came from one of the aircraft plants where cost there was no object but there's other holes in all the laser but what I was gonna do here see their holes in this also sawed it off and then get down to the basic dimension and then I'll start giving you some some dimensions so I hadn't decided I think what I'm gonna do here is cut this to length on the bends or and see if the holes are gonna disappear on me or if they're going to be bothersome in other words this is scrap this is the overall dimensions of the blank and how fortuitous was it that this happens to be in Chinna what did I say inch and a half thick yeah so I build this off square just now and then I've laid it off this is the blank here so I'm gonna rough cut it out on the bandsaw this is waste up here I'm trying to work around a hole and I think I will although if it does extend in there I don't believe it does it's not going to hurt a thing get your glasses on now this old boys crane bandsaw is actually a combination wooden cutting metal cutting saw with the planetary gearbox of all things no nonsense with belts so I've got it sped up to that rather high speed but it's just a regular metal cutting blade but I think it still should be fairly fast but it's never fun cutting off on the bandsaw and now I'm milling it down to the layout lines the basic blank size the blank is down to rough measurements as indicated before right here pretty close to those dimensions it doesn't matter too much so now I'm going to lay out and get ready for the dovetail now the dovetail is the hardest part so I'm going to do that first so that if I should goof it up I asked I would start over and not have wasted my time on everything you see on the other side so now I have covered this in other videos I really don't know how much detail I need to go into regarding the dovetail but I suppose are some out there that have never done it and it's something I do not do myself very often all right let's go through this real quickly and I am copying verbatim from a genuine Alaris dimensions and this is three inches but we're really interested in the dovetail what is the width and what is the depth so in order to do that the time-honored method is to take two dowel pins now it does not matter what size these are as long as they're they fit in there approximate like this into the dovetail these happen to be quarter-inch but as you know hardened old dollar pins are slightly oversized not much but then what I like to do well you can do it many ways you could and it's probably going to be good enough just to take a caliper and take a measurement off of that and then write it down but what I like to do is to take adjustable parallel Brown and sharp to be exact that neural there is interfering a little bit and then this can be as you know moved in and out lock it if you need to and then I'm going to mic it right across there but of course I already have and it's one inch and ten thousandths and I wrote it down here and I'll write it down over on the milling machine don't trust those numbers to you're failing memory and then I'll take my stirrup depth micrometer do you remember with Jimmy the rest has sent that to me lest me so I've already measured the depth here as such and I've written it down it's a point 380 in this case yeah and I just mentioned you're failing memory that naked great title for our country music song would have not now here's the 30 degree dovetail cutter that I will be using given to me by Randy Richards in the shop and he has these for sale so check out his website at his channel if you will but notice that he even put a serial number on there and the insert number and my name so Thank You Randy and we'll see this in action here in a few minutes I'm gonna roughly lay this out on the blank although you could do it all on the milling machine just with the Dro but I like some base dimensions and that will be the layout now I took this measurement on genuine Alaura sand it's not quite one 350 but I'm gonna call it one 350 but I measured it on several other brands and the measurements are just all over the place so evidently that's not very critical at all however I will lay it off here it was a base my big ol arm in the way that's what I need to be left-handed and this is the point 380 deep remember that's the measurement I took with Jimmy the rest is starett depths micrometer now I'll lay out the 30 degree and you can use a protractor or I like this little stare at square there we go naturally I ran across the groove ready to mill really I'm at the bridge board and that's a 3/4 of carbide end mill and I'm just roughing this out into a wreck approximately the layout lines thousands deep we'll throw all of those was just no news you you now you may notice that almost all of these dovetails are undercut here look at the green line on each side and they're just oh I don't know 10 15 thousands deep and it doesn't matter at all but the whole idea is that when I go to using the dovetail cutter that it'll only be cutting into the dovetail itself not cutting here in the center so I'm going to put that undercut in there right now I've laid it out if you can see it with the black lines and 15,000th deep and I didn't have a cutter wide enough to do it all in one pass so I'll go back and forth and and undercut that now with Randy Richards cutter and that's a 5/8 shank 5/8 collet and I've taken an initial cut I've checked the depth and you can see where I've taken my first light pass and I'm going to mill it down close to the layout line on both sides and then I'll take my first measurement with the dowel pins you you I've already taken several measurements and I'm really down to size now clean it out real well put the dollar pins in place and I'll use the mitt the Toyo this time instead of the adjustable parallel either way is okay wiggle it a little bit and I'm at one point zero that is one point zero eleven and a half and remember I was shooting for the top number there so I'm within one and a half thousands and that's just good let me see if I can fit up the actual a lower stool post in there if there's room I couldn't fit it in from the front side so here it is on the backside it's in nice and locks so now I can take it out work pretty well well there it is so far now I'm ready to start laying out the rest of it now remember I'm departing here a little bit from the design of this remember that as Kevin did this he reduced the amount of plastic and the printing time and all that and this was made out of PLA so I'm changing some of those dimensions which I'll talk about here in just a second also I'm going to use a drilled and tapped hole here that doesn't go all the way through although it probably would be easier to go all the way through and it will be the indicator will be held on with a thread rather than a cap screw that clear that goes clear through now I'm not sure what I'm gonna do we get about the clearance that I need for the plunger here so I'll get back to that later on but that we've done with the ball end mil if you recall now I'm laying out this semicircular notch here and I don't think I'll have that step I'll eliminate that and it's not going to be quite as deep because in fact if you look at these indicators and if you make it to fit this indicator and I showed you where to get those from showers in the last video you can see that the dimension here well first of all the overall dimension here is one and a half inches well this material is one and a half inches how fortuitous was that or is that for that matter well then the thickness here including that boss which was troublesome last time comes to let's say eight eight hundred and twenty thousand so here's those dimensions for those that are interested I changed it to 850 so you get a little extra depth there and it's one in 1/16 long which is 1.06 - now let me get the dimensions on the front and the top I'm going to give you a few dimensions here whether it means anything to you or not but this lug is for all intents and purposes a quarter-inch thick and in this direction 5/8 did I give this yet I'm gonna call it one point six hundred I'm running some of this off so if this is five-eighths half of that is five sixteenths in other words to the center of that hole so I've laid out this line five sixteenths transferred it over why because that's the center line of this hole that's it down there eventually they'd be a hole drilled on that center line you see what I want to do here is swing a hole that is the radius of this and the diameter is one point six hundred so the the radius is eight hundred thousand switch is twenty five thirty seconds about so I've set the dividers for twenty five thirty seconds however I have no place to put the point of the divider so I've taken I know this is ridiculous half the thickness of the lug which is eighth inch is a quarter-inch stock that I clamped on there and made this false center hole I know you're thinking I lost it I bet you're thinking that but you see this gives me a place to swing the Ark of the Covenant I'm about ready to go over to the milling machine and mill this out and that do you remember in the last video I used a boring head for that and that was kind of awkward so I found this fly cutter and I have it set for the correct radius so that's what I'm going to use to cut that out but of course that's way too much to cut off with this fly cutter so I'm going to take a roughing cutter and just mill most of this out you know that's all waste stock so I'll rough that out show you what I'm doing over there and then I'll I'll put this in locate it and feed down clean that up to give me a fairly good finish doesn't really matter then we'll come back and I got a hole the drill here and a hold of drill and tap here how does that sound yeah hey school class would never a follow this but you guys are full grown men okay I got an IRA cutter here a roughing mill knock some of that material out there and I'm gonna be using a little kerosene on it did I ever tell you that Henry Ford used kerosene as a hair dressing probably tell you that in every video don't I oh well that's called reinforced learning according to educators and what we learned in college all right [Music] you I have the flight set for one point six hundred and I have a position on the work I hope and I have the depth stop set and I'm ready to go and I'm just gonna feed down with a quill and see how that goes although that's a little irregular rather than using the the knee would be better but let's see how this goes I am hitting the top of the of the work with the backend of this so I have a little problem there I'm gonna have to decide what to do and reset that although it left I must say a rather nice chamfer the problem was the cutter was sticking too far out the other end so I shot it off with a dremel back to work and now I check it for clearance back here which of course I should have done in the first place yeah there's plenty of Clarence let's try it again that's more like it I know I tentatively laid out that hole the mounting hole so but I'm going to transfer I just love transfer punchers so I'll lay the the word of the indicator in there and I'm just going to keep it off the bottom here I don't want it to stick out so I'm just going to move it up a little bit so it's flush or a little bit back and then transfer that hole also make sure I'm not pushed this way too far which will keep the blue dial from rotating I don't want any interference I have been busy now I've marked where I need the clearance for the plunger and I don't need much so I'm going to go in there with a ball end mil something like that and I've already as you can see drilled and tapped this hole it's a blind hole 1/4 20 drilled 1360 force doesn't go through so that's done so I'll do this now and then we got some deburring to do and another hole out here and now a 3/8 ball end mil for relief for the plunger [Music] you there the relief now I've already laid out a hole here that'll be drilled 1/4 and tapped 5 16 18 why because I happen to have in stock a bunch of these long 5/16 set screws and I'm already and for some reason they have a brass pin in the end which will neither help nor hurt anything and I've already made up when I did the prototype several of these knurled nuts 5 16 18 as a quick nut and then this is the lock nut also a thin pattern I like the looks of the thin pattern so let me go ahead off-camera I won't show that and that's uh let's see I believe 5/16 over looks a little far double-check that and this way it's centered which is one and a half inches from the end that hole was located wrong as five sixteenths from the edge you can see the old mark there water what's wrong so that'll go in like that now what I'm going to do is break all the corners liberally a fella could even take this to the mill with a corner mill and champ for the corners or round over the corners or whatever you would want to do to knock those corners off make it look good I just take it to the belt sander or with a file on every one of the corners to break them and here and here and so on all the way around so here I am with Palmer's belt sander and you've seen the video on that this is a mighty course belt so I had to be careful because it it'll gobble up your work it's so powerful that's a three-horse motor remember that safety glasses well there is final assembly looking good and there's just a little clearance here between the blue neural part so that this will easily turn and not be locked let's go put it on the logo and see what it looks like well here I am at the Logan lathe fits right into the alors real nicely and you know what I might as well do a a check here on my tail sock alignment while I'm at it zero it out I'm not sure if it shows up and will I always like to back it off out of the other end and oh my gosh it's also at zero so I'm right on well that completes this video I hope I gave you enough dimensions to make one of these but let's face it again I say this in every video that there is no one on all of Christendom they're going to make this and I do this strictly for entertainment value and I hope you enjoyed the video and what I did in the shop here now and now I got to spend about 90 minutes cleaning this place up because it looks like Sherman's march to the sea this is tubal-cain saying so long for now and I'll see you in my next video you

Channel: mrpete222

Views: 86,333

Rating: 4.937654 out of 5

Keywords: aloris, indicator holder, dial indicator, logan lathe

Id: kJIsR6HsWPA

Length: 30min 14sec (1814 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 16 2017