Shaping a Tapered Bore Internal Keyway

[Music] working on another one of these tapered bore couplings and I've seen these a couple times on the channel so we've already got it bored I just did that and I'm gonna lay this thing out for the keyway up here and this time instead of broaching it with a push broach I'm going to use the shaper and since it's a tapered bore that Universal table on the on the shape of work real good for this so we'll be able to get it clamped in the vise get it centered up where we want it and then we'll run an indicator through here to get that the table adjusted so that it's in you know the stroke is parallel to the taper there and then we'll do our cuts and we'll probably do our cuts on the top side so if you're looking at it like this our tool is going to be to the top there and that's just because it's so thin there if I was to do it on the bottom there's really not a lot of area to clamp it in the vise I like doing it on the bottom simply so that I can use the automatic down feet on the shaper but we'll just do it by hand on this one so I'm gonna make some layout lines on here to get it squared up in the in the shaper and the vise that'll be our Center in line to get it a lines up and down where we want because we're gonna lay out our key way right here that would be our depth there I went just to just a shade over 7/16 alright 7/8 wide so there's our width 7/8 and our depth should be good 7/16 just a shade over all right so that's about where our keyway is going to be right there [Laughter] [Music] we want to make sure that our vise is clean there's no chips down in there I've got the parallel selected that I want to use we're gonna try out a new tool today on this job right here and this would be great for this 8-inch vise right here so this is a there's a tool called the parakeet and this was given to me by shards tool and what it is is a you've got a kit there with three different size bolts you got a couple Springs or some shorter links and this is a spring loaded deal right here and you can adjust the bolt in and out of there and this will just help keep the parallel seated against the jaws so we're going to use that bolt right there all right so what we'll do is I'll just I'll just set it so that it's about equal there to the to the jaws of the Vice and we'll preload it all right so it's got plenty of spring tension there to keep the parallels seated back push that back against the device right there all right so we got just enough where I can line up the bottom there let's get it kind of in the middle of the vise just tight enough to where we can rotate it and I like using this square right here that way I can go flush against the workpiece and we're going to try to keep it lined up on the the bottom edge down there on that line there and we'll just rotate it and bump it around until it looks like both lines are lined up it looks really good right there so what you can do sometimes this is kind of slide it in and watch for the Lions to start disappearing it's looking pretty good right there to me I'm gonna go ahead and snug it up that will help us get lined up on our key way and use our reference or layout line there too as we cut our key way there so that looks pretty good I'm going to go ahead and retighten the vise and make sure that it's really good and tight I don't want this thing trying to push and pry out of those vise jaws right there but now I'm working on getting the bar in the center of the hub and so what I've been doing is is measuring like this not on the end of the bar so we're getting about 660 on that side there and on this side we're getting about 690 so approximately 30 thousands difference we'll split it in to 15,000 so we're going to move the table that way 15 thousands it's about 680 on both sides there we're gonna call that Center for now we may check it again a little bit so now I'm that I'm in the middle I want to go ahead and start getting the the table indicated on the proper angle to follow the taper so I measure the old coupling just with this to kind of get a reference and we're approximately three and a half to four degrees of the angle so we're gonna go ahead and adjust this thing closely what we'll do is loosen these four or loosen the two clamps there's two nuts I actually hate breaking this thing loose so you got a worm shaft it goes through here that you spin and then it turns this table up here so you got a graduated uh degrees here one two indicator popped out all right there's three degrees right about there so well we'll go ahead and start indicating the part now and adjusting it as we need but this seemed to be the easiest and quickest setup to get in there and indicate that ID I grabbed an ogre with a test indicator and I grabbed a couple test indicators and I was just having difficulty without taking this bar off there getting in there in so we're gonna try it like this we got everything adjusted now so that we can go ahead and start in the cake the table for moving the table I mean we're gonna start moving the screw here they can find adjustments right here it looks like we've got it within 1000s now [Music] [Music] [Music] all righty so I have the bar and the tool centered in the part there and you can kind of see that the tool bit should be centered up on that scribe mark we're gonna start with the what I call Acme tool because it's ground it's like an Acme tool and that's to rough it out and then once we get it roughed then we're going to use this tool right here to square up the sides and cut across the top right there got everything set we've got our stroke set I've got everything set so I don't crash into the clapper back here I know you can't see it from there but it was very close and I'm gonna be trying this by hand feeding since we're gonna be going up we're gonna be using the just hand feed method which I don't like but we're gonna try it and the reason why I don't want to feed the table you would essentially be feeding the table down is the minimum feed on this machine is ten thousandths and I think that's going to be a little bit aggressive for something like this I'm worried that it's gonna be too aggressive a cut especially once you start getting a lot on the sides there and the table being unclamped and unsupported fully so we're gonna try it just hand feed I just want to point out before we get started so I've got it selected and run $40 I'm sorry 48 strokes per minute and I'll let you see that okay that's it's pretty aggressive but if you want to know what what the book recommends I should be running is a hundred and forty strokes a minute and I'm not going to run it that fast but that's just going to show you that if you were actually running these machines at the recommended speeds you can move some metal really fast I don't want to run at that fast because the machine's not bolted down and I don't want to Turk it that hard you know the Machine I don't want to see it whip and back and forth like that but so our recommended cutting speed for steel is eighty feet per minute so you go 80 times seven divided by your cut length so I've got the stroke set at four inches so you go divided by four equals that's 140 so that should be your recommended strokes but we're just gonna run it at 48 see how it goes let's get it touched off and there's our touch off got my collar here oh it looks like it's cut nice and even all the way across let's try something new on the shaper I'm going to use some of this anchor lube such as thick and kind of stays in place and we're just going to experiment with it and see what it does that's the stuff right here Thank You Luke I'm pretty good so far probably gonna go ahead and move it over start feeding to the side pretty good cut right there so now that I'm in the center so what I've got is an indicator set to zero on this side and we've also got an indicator on the other side set to zero I just showed you there's our other indicator see it goes pretty quick I'm just watching that line so we're we're getting pretty close I'm gonna go ahead and just stop it this should be our zero in the center right there so we'll feed the table that way now I'm watching that indicator over there we're gonna go three hundred and ten all right all right well we're doing good now we just need to bring it back and we'll bring it back to the center and plunge the tool upwards again we've got to get into a rhythm exactly one revolution on the last I've got to watch and let it sneak up on that previous cut I'll just let it line up there [Music] [Music] right there doing good she seems to be handling that cut pretty well nice look at Justin offloaded there we go okay we've got much more to go we're gonna go ahead and center it and we'll take one more cut we'll get it real close to that scribed line [Music] all right so we've got the keyway roughed out now everything's very close so we're gonna go ahead I'm going to clean this up we're gonna put our finishing tool in there and we'll go in there and we'll scrape the sides out and go across the top and you know this didn't take very long at all seriously I didn't look at the clock but I might have from what you've seen right here no more than 15 minutes I think it's probably been between 10 and 15 minutes of doing this and that's plus moving the cameras around so this is going pretty fast once you get it set up ivory centered the tool and we're going to touch the top of it there we're going to take a slight cut and get it cleaned up to that line there I set a 0 up here on the on the tool head and that's what we'll bring it up to all right our offset is going to be 0.25 five to each direction because we've got a seven Hyp our tool bit is miking at 365 wide so at Lisa's 510 divide it by two 255 per side we got zero there and we've got zero over there cut off all right that looks pretty good on the line I'm just coming up to my scribe line which is a little bit deeper than what I needed so I'm gonna set a zero up here [Music] it's 400,000 it's too and then we won't 55 so I got a look up in there there's our 255 I'm going about 10,000 per stroke but that was gonna be a little bit much needs to be doing pretty good though we approaching our zero we got off fifty to go is right there I'm gonna drop it back down so when one higher than 50 should have cleared the bottom right there doing pretty good now let's offset it to the other side I'm gonna leave it a few thousand shy so that if I can check it with our gauge blocks and make sure I'm not overshooting it hopefully and we'll get it really close all right we've got our preload I put about three hundred thousands on there so let's go ahead and move it that way I'll go two hundred and fifty and that should leave us about five thousands I hope I think I like my power down feet a little bit more that's our zero we're gonna use granddad's number 700 stare inside mic right here these are perfect first things like this use them just kind of like you would a vernier calliper rock it back and forth so you can feel it it looks like we're getting 865 on our width so we're ten thousand shot so I still need to go five thousand on this side which set should bring it to 870 and then from there we still got five down this to go so really what I need to do is take five six seven will take like set will try to take seven and a half on this side and then we'll come back across to this side and try to take two and a half on on that one there to keep it centered all right just cut in that side there it's pretty good too all right so it looks like I hit my 7000 it's like I wanted so we still got two thousands and we'll come over to this side and clean that up to thousands according to the mic we're on 875 I'll use some gauge blocks and see if this is accurate and just how close we really are but looks like we're there let's go ahead and do that before I skim the top because I got a zero set there I just want to make one pass across the top edge right there to clean that up all right so here's an 874 stack up I can't seem to get them to they don't want to stay together whenever I try to ring them together today but all right there's 874 see it's going in there it's got a little bit of a snug fit but it's going in there now I try to eat 73 873 X and slides in there so I'd really feel more comfortable if I try to take another foul out of that which I know I can do so I'm gonna go ahead and take one more thousands out of this side and make sure that the 875 stack up can slide through there I just took the one more foul out of that one side right there we've got our 875 gauge block stacked up there we go do that perfect fit right there so we're good to go on our width I'm going to set my zero I'm gonna set my zero to this side and we're gonna make that one pass across the top there [Music] [Music] alright looks like we got through our corner there well once again the Schaefer proves it's worth and got this key way done in fine fashion and it did an excellent job I haven't had any issues with it whatsoever so I got everything cleaned up we just need to get it out of the vise and I need to do some deburr on it and it does require a set screw in and on this side but I'm going to do that at work this is a this is a job that I'm doing for work so I'm just going to finish that off down there I just wanted to take the opportunity to practice on another workpiece here doing an internal key and proving that the internal bar that I made was gonna work good and everything worked pretty good and it worked out great there we go all finished up we've got a filed and cleaned up and we've got left to do now is just go over here and we'll drill in tab for our set screws off-camera and this will be done it was nice being able to use the shaper to do a job like this you know what that machine is intended on doing is operations like that and it's nice being able to for once not have to use a broach press and shims and that kind of stuff so I was glad to be able to do it and I hope hopefully you enjoyed watching the video one little project down so we'll see you on the next one okay [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Abom79

Views: 374,343

Rating: 4.9260688 out of 5

Keywords: abom79, shaper, metal shaper, g&e shaper, gould and eberhardt, machinist, machine shop, manual machinist, job shop, shaft hub, fast shaft hub, gear hub, internal key way, internal keyway, tapered bore, tapered bore keyway, tapered internal keyway, tool bit, machining a keyway, high speed tool bit

Id: af7mWmBB--4

Length: 31min 27sec (1887 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 29 2018