[ Gulls squawking ] -Hi. I'm Rick Steves, back with more
of the best of Europe. This time, we're gettin'
to know the locals, and that includes the seagulls. We're exploring
the islands of Scotland. Thanks for joining us. ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ Scotland's islands may be on
the distant fringes of Scotland, but those who venture here
are richly rewarded. As if fortified
by the powerful sea, these fabled isles
are protectors of tradition -- each offering
dramatic landscapes, a rich heritage,
and a warm welcome. While Scotland
has countless islands, we'll visit what I consider
the most rewarding: Iona, with its tranquility
and ancient Christian heritage; Skye, with its remote
and rugged landscapes; and Orkney,
with its prehistoric wonders and fascinating
World War II history. The United Kingdom includes
England, Wales, Northern Ireland, and Scotland. Scotland is ringed on the west
by the Hebrides Islands. We'll venture from Oban
to Iona and Staffa; then, Skye; and then, in the far north, sail to the Orkney Islands. Oban's been the unofficial
capital of Scotland's West Coast ever since the train arrived
back in 1880. The hub of the local
ferry system, this low-key resort is nicknamed
"the Gateway to the isles." Oban's harborfront is lined
with Victorian facades recalling the early arrival
of tourists just over a century ago. Before then, its economy
was dominated by fishing. Even today,
a tiny fleet stays busy. When the rain clears,
sun-starved Scots enjoy their esplanade
and the beach. ♪♪ The townscape is dominated
by its busy ferry port. The port has long been
a lifeline to the Hebrides Islands. Today, it's a popular
springboard for island adventurers. The best day out from Oban
is the three-island tour and we've caught
the early ferry on our way to Mull, Iona, and Staffa. Right away, we're immersed
in grand island views. Be on deck to make the most
of the experience. After an hour, you approach
the isle of Mull. Everything is coordinated
and a bus is standing by, ready to take us
across the island. Enjoying the drive,
you're struck by the pristine scenery,
the sparse population, and how Mull feels hardly
touched by civilization. On the far west of Mull, another ferry makes the short
crossing to the isle of Iona. Iona is tiny,
but with a big history. It's just one village,
3 miles long, 150 people, almost no cars. [ Baaing ] It's famous as the birthplace
of Christianity in Scotland. ♪♪ The year was 563. A nobleman,
who became Saint Columba, fought a battle over in Ireland. He won, but was so sickened
by the bloodshed that he left his homeland,
vowing never to return. According to legend,
this was the first piece of land he came to
out of sight from Ireland. He stopped here
and built a church, which eventually became
this abbey. Iona became a center
of Celtic Christianity. [ Tender tune plays ]
From here, Saint Columba's monks spread the gospel
throughout Scotland. This remote, little island
was a center of art and learning back when most of Europe
was almost illiterate, mired in relative darkness. The exquisitely illustrated
Book of Kells -- this is a copy
on display in Dublin -- is perhaps
the finest piece of art from Europe's early Middle Ages. Monks wrote it here, on Iona,
in the 8th century. Over the next centuries, Columba's monastic
community grew in religious importance. The abbey became the burial
place for chiefs and kings. According to legend,
dozens of ancient kings, Scottish, Irish, and even
Scandinavian, rest here. [ Outro plays ]
[ Gulls squawking ] After many generations,
in about the year 800, Viking raiders were terrorizing
coastal communities all across western Europe,
including Iona. After one terrible massacre, 68 monks were killed
right here on this beach. The survivors packed up
their treasures, including the precious
Book of Kells, and returned to Ireland. Today, a thoughtful calm pervades Scotland's
holiest of islands. After centuries of pillaging, little remains
of the original abbey, but if you're interested
in tranquility and a bit of meditative peace, Iona is a fine place for a break
from your busy itinerary. ♪♪ Next, a fastboat takes us
to our third island of the day, Staffa -- famous for its
bird life and striking
volcanic rock formations. ♪♪ Our captain gives us
a dramatic sneak preview of the fabled Fingal's Cave. He then drops us off
for time to explore. Walking across
the uninhabited island, we head for the hidden nests
of a colony of Atlantic puffins. ♪♪ We wait patiently and quietly,
observing the hardworking adults bringing home a fishy
breakfast for their chicks. ♪♪ Hiking along the base
of the cliffs, using Staffa's distinctive
six-sided basalt columns as stepping stones,
we reach Fingal's Cave. ♪♪ Peering into the
geological darkness, so surrounded by nature,
I savor the moment. Enjoying the interplay
of the sea and the rocks, I think of the generations
of romantics who've stood right here
and been inspired. ♪♪ [ Jaunty tune plays ]
After enjoying our three-island day,
we're driving farther north. The drive's scenic,
the roads are good, and the traffic's light. ♪♪ Ferries connect these islands with Scottish
government-subsidized fares, keeping island-hopping
inexpensive. Next up,
the rugged Isle of Skye. ♪♪ Offering some of Scotland's
best scenery, the Isle of Skye
is understandably popular. Narrow, twisty roads
wind around Skye, in the shadows of craggy,
bald mountains, and the coastline is ruffled
with peninsulas; and sea lochs,
or saltwater inlets. Skye, while Scotland's
second-biggest island, about a two-hour drive
from south to north, has only 13,000 residents. And it's been that way
since the Highland Clearances [ Baaing ]
back in the 1800s. That's when wealthy
landlords decided sheep were better for their
bottom line than people. Landless peasants were driven
out and, to this day, the island's population
is half what it used to be. While plenty of tour buses
cover Skye, it's a great place
to have your own wheels. The island is dotted with
scenic roadside attractions. The Sligachan Bridge
offers a classic Skye view and a good reminder
to stop the car and get out. The Cuillin mountains
tower high above and above the bridge looms
the cone-shaped Glamaig Hill. ♪♪ Around here, people really know
how to have fun with nature. As a matter of fact,
every summer, there's a race, from the bridge to the top
of that mountain and back. Last year's winner?
44 minutes. [ Flute plays haunting tune ]
If you know where to look, the island is strewn
with the scant remains of past civilizations. Just a short hike
from a handy parking lot is Skye's best-preserved
Iron Age fort: Dun Beag. To get the most out of our
Isle of Skye road trip, I'm joined by my friend
and fellow tour guide Colin Mairs. Exploring this
prehistoric stone tower connects us
with Skye's distant past. Judging from these stones, the tower once stood
much taller. I love scrambling
through ruined castles and this one
is particularly evocative. -Well, people have been living
on the Isle of Skye for thousands of years
and this place, if you imagine, it probably had a timber frame
inside, three stories high. They would get in here
under times of attack. They could gather in here,
the community, men, women, children,
and their domesticated animals, and we think this was built
around about 2,000 years ago. ♪♪ -Skye's best home base
is the town of Portree, nestled deep
in its protective harbor. Portree, with its narrow streets and humble shops,
restaurants, and hotels, is the island's largest town
and tourism center. As Skye gets more
and more popular, Portree gets jammed
with visitors in the summer. ♪♪ The harborside, once busy with
its historic kelp-gathering and herring-fishing economy,
like the rest of the town, is now dedicated to tourism. Fish and chips is a standby
for a cheap lunch. Grab a spot and enjoy the view. But be on guard. Those seagulls are hungry, too. -[Squawk]
-Hey! Well, the gulls are well-fed
and, now, it's our turn. Time for a pub lunch. We're here in July and every restaurant in town
is busy with tourists, many escaping the heat
of southern Europe for the cool of the north. Places that take pride
in their food have raised pub grub
to new levels: creative dishes,
fresh vegetables, and salads. And, anywhere in Britain,
I go for the local beer. Here on the island,
it's Skye Gold. [ Outro plays ] [ Mid-tempo tune plays ] The highlight of our
Isle of Skye visit is driving around the scenic
Trotternish Peninsula. The coast is lined
with jaw-dropping cliffs plunging into the sea. This one's nicknamed Kilt Rock because its volcanic
lava columns look like pleats
in a Scottish kilt. A steep climb inland leads
to a trailhead at the summit of the
Trotternish Ridge. ♪♪ Man, we're lucky to have
a place to park. -Right. -Skye is well-discovered,
these days, but you can still get
away from the crowds. Make a point to get out
of the car and take a hike. [ Poignant tune sweeps ] ♪♪ From here,
we enjoy the easy walk across a dramatic escarpment
called the Quiraing. ♪♪ Hikers are richly rewarded,
enjoying unforgettable views of the Isle of Skye
and the distant mainland. ♪♪ ♪♪ In addition to the
stunning scenery, there's history and heritage
in the land. We stopped at a peat bog
that tells a story. Until a generation ago,
bogs like these, where organic matter
is slowly working its way to becoming coal,
were harvested to heat homes. So this is a peat spade? -Yeah, so that's just
for cutting the peats. And it's a task
like chopping firewood. It's a matter of survival,
really. Peat was really important for people historically,
on the Isle of Skye. So you would cut the peat
from a bog, like this. Then, you'd dry it out, first,
put it on the fire, and that lets off
a sweet, smoky smell. It's used through the harsh
winter, heats the home, provides a fuel source
for cooking. It's used widely
in the whiskey industry and I really love
the smell of burning peat. [ Jaunty tune plays ] -The fine little
Skye Museum of Island Life explains how a typical
Skye family lived, back in the days when peat
was vital to survival. So, what is this? -So, this is a crofting community and it shows how people
used to live in Skye. This was quite typical
in the 1800s and a croft is basically
a small-scale farm, so, small-scale
subsistence farming. They didn't own the land,
but they lived off the land and paid the rent, as well. -So, this is where
the family gathered. -Yep. This is a typical household setting
for 1800s Skye. -So, the kitchen would've been
where the action is. -Yeah, so they're
all around the hearth. You've got the peat
burning on the fire and that's burning
day and night. People gather around here
and they've got things to keep them amused,
keep them entertained. They've got a Bible
in the Gaelic language because they spoke Gaelic here. They've got musical instruments
and that would give them some entertainment, as well. People would get together
and have a cèilidh. A cèilidh is a get-together. They have a bit of a gossip, bit of a drink,
maybe some whiskey, and then that leads into playing
some music, some dancing, and we still use
the term cèilidh today. -So they'd gather
'round the peat fire. They've got their whiskey. They've got their bagpipe,
their fiddle, and their accordion.
-Yeah. What else do you need? -Neighbors.
-[ Chuckles ] Yeah. -Farm communities like this
had to be self-sufficient. A blacksmith made all the tools and clothing was woven
from local wool. -The people here
were self-sufficient to make their own clothes,
as well, and they basically could take
the wool from their own sheep. They'll spin it into yarn,
dye it, and then weave it into tweed
on this loom, so the loom was kept very busy. -I hear the word tweed
a lot when I'm in Scotland. What is that?
-Yeah. So, tweed is basically a coarse, woolen cloth and very famous,
from this part of the world. The most famous, really, comes
from the neighboring island of Harris.
-Oh. The Isle of Harris that's just over there?
-Yeah, that's Harris. -The north tip
of the Trotternish Peninsula is marked by the crumbling
remains of the Duntulm Castle. This was the first
stronghold on Skye of the influential
MacDonald clan. It offers another
wind-blown chance to savor how history and nature mix it up
here on the Isle of Skye. ♪♪ For our final island, it's a four-hour drive
across the mainland and up the northeast
coast of Scotland. Before catching our ferry,
we make a quick stop at the northernmost tip
of the British mainland: John O'Groats. ♪♪ It's a fun stop
for tourists to snap their "been there, done that" photo with the landmark signpost. But, for us, there's more. Orkney looms just off the coast. [ Outro plays ] ♪♪ The Orkney Islands,
perched an hour's ferry ride north of the mainland, are remote, historic,
and, for the right traveler, worth the effort. Orkney's dramatic cliffs
and rock formations seem to herald
a different world. The ferry lands in the
tiny port of Stromness. ♪♪ Stony and humble, you immediately feel
an island kind of charm. Orkney's landscape
is mostly flat and bald, with few trees
and lots of tidy farms. [ Baaing ]
♪♪ The blustery weather
keeps the vegetation [ Wind whistling ]
low and scrubby. Trees just can't grow
in the Orkney winds. ♪♪ With its sparse population, the island has
no traffic lights. Most roads are single-lane
and driving here is a joy. Fine, sandy beaches
seem always empty, as if lying on them
will give you hypothermia. ♪♪ Orkney, an archipelago
of 70 islands, has about 25,000 people. The main island is called,
confusingly, Mainland. The vast majority of Orcadians
live in Kirkwall. Tidy and functional, this town's buildings are more
practical than pretty. Its pedestrians-only
main drag leads from the cathedral
down to the harbor. It's a workaday strip,
lined with simple shops and busy with locals who all
seem to know each other. At the harbor, fishing boats bob and ferries fan out
to nearby islands. Today's economy is based mostly
on North Sea oil and fishing. ♪♪ [ Drumroll ] [ Playing upbeat tune ] The local pipe band
brings a ruddy, distinctly Orcadian groove
to the town center. ♪♪ It's a toe-tapping energy
as everybody gathers together. ♪♪ [ Cheers and applause ]
St. Magnus Cathedral towers above the town center. With centuries of tombstones and
its weathered red sandstone, it's a reminder
of a long-ago era that shaped
this island's culture. The church was built
in the 12th century, when Orkney was ruled by Norway. In fact, it was part
of a Norwegian parish. Norway's just 170 miles
across the sea. The Vikings established Orkney as a trading post
in the 9th century and it stayed under Norwegian
rule for 600 years. That's why this culture feels
more Scandinavian than Celtic. The old Orcadian language,
many town names, and the folklore:
all Nordic. Stepping inside, you're struck by the stout and harmonious
Romanesque design, with its arcade
of round arches leading to what must've been
an awe-inspiring high altar in the Middle Ages. [ Flute plays haunting tune ] Orkney is small,
and its countryside charms are just minutes away by car. To get the most
out of our time here, we're joined by my friend
and fellow tour guide Kinlay Francis. -And beauty and ancient history. Orkney has two big draws:
World War sites and some of the best prehistoric
sites in northern Europe. Orkney, at one stage,
was the center of civilization, back in the Stone Age. -The island is dotted
with monuments recalling the island's
distant past. The Stones of Stenness, part of a dozen stones
that made a big circle, are a reminder that,
5,000 years ago, Orkney had a busy civilization, with more people then
than there are here today. ♪♪ At the far western shore, Skara Brae illustrates how
some Neolithic people lived. They hunkered down
in subterranean homes connected by tunnels. -It was a big community.
150 people living here at one stage. A third of the village remains. Two-thirds were taken away
by the North Atlantic. People lived under the ground,
in stone-type igloo buildings with turf roofs,
and they lived under the ground to keep the weather out,
to keep them warm. They were powered by oil lamps, with whale oil
and whalebone basins, and a very nice-looking
community. ♪♪ -And all of this
was accomplished without the use of metal tools. This, after all,
was the Stone Age, before people learned
to make and use metals. A few miles away,
sitting quietly in what seems like
just another field, is a remarkable burial mound. Maeshowe is the finest chambered
tomb north of the Alps. For 5,000 years, people have
lowered their heads to enter this sacred place. ♪♪ ♪♪ Wow! This is great. Tell me about this place. -This is a burial chamber and to our right and our left
and behind you are three tombs.
-Mm-hmm. -On winter solstice, at sunset, the sun streams
through this position here and illuminates
the back chamber. -Wow!
-The stone is sandstone and it's been hand-carved
and corbelled, vaulted into position,
to make this beautiful chamber. And how Neolithic man managed
to build this structure, no one really knows. [ Outro plays ] [ Tranquil tune plays ] -Orkney's arch
of scattered islands forms one of the world's
largest natural harbors. It's called Scapa Flow. In the 10th century, Vikings
sheltered their warships here and, 1,000 years later,
in the 20th century, so did the British. Scapa Flow was a critical base
for Britain's Royal Navy.
[ Chord strikes ] Back during World War I,
to prevent German U-boats from sneaking between
the little islands that define this harbor,
dozens of old ships were intentionally sunk,
to block the gaps. You can still see many
of these "block ships" breaking the surface today. But they didn't
really do the job, as Britain learned, tragically,
at the start of World War II. -In 1939, a few weeks
after the start of the Second World War, a German U-boat slipped
through a position just like this,
into Scapa Flow and torpedoed a British
battleship at anchor. Over 800 men were lost. As a result of this,
the British sent tens of thousands of troops
here, to Orkney, to fortify the island with gun batteries
and ships and airfields, and it became known locally
as Fortress Orkney. -Britain built barriers
to make the harbor safe from more surprise attacks. Winston Churchill visited and
decided to connect the islands by building causeways
out of concrete blocks. Today, tourists drive
along these Churchill Barriers as they explore the island. ♪♪ Orkney's most charming wartime
sight is its Italian chapel. Italian prisoners of war helped
to build the Churchill Barriers. They were given these
two prefab Quonset huts and, during their free time,
they were allowed to scavenge whatever wartime scraps they
could find to decorate them. They built a beautiful
little Catholic chapel that reminded them
of their homeland. [ Melancholy tune plays ]
Inside, you can see the creative work
of those Italian prisoners: light fixtures made
from ration tins, candleholders fashioned
from brass shell casings, and painted windows
with the illusion of radiant, stained glass. Above the altar,
Mary holds the baby Jesus, who holds an olive branch, a kind of prayer for peace. The chapel was completed
in 1944, just two months before
the Italians who built it were free to go home. [ Chord strikes,
mid-tempo tune plays ] These Scottish islands each have
a distinct personality: Orkney, with its quirky history; Iona,
with its spiritual heart; Staffa, with its
remote wildlife; and Skye,
with its majestic nature. [ Music climbs, intensifies ] [ Chord strikes ] [ Gulls squawking ] I hope you've enjoyed
our island adventure across the friendly and scenic
fringes of bonnie Scotland. Thanks for joining us.
I'm Rick Steves. Until next time,
keep on travelin'. [ Microphone crackling ]
-Ah! -Don't push.
-Ow! ♪♪ Ow! Oops. -Yeah. There's a lot
of sheep around, so you'd better watch your step.
-Thank you. -They call them
the Skye landmines. [ Laughter ]
-The Skye landmines. -The MacDonalds
against the MacLeods. -Aye.
-Aye, give me a sword and a kilt, and I'm on my way. This time, we're getting
to know the locals, and that includes the pigeons. -Seagulls.
-Seagulls! Seagulls. [ Squawking ] ♪♪
