-Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with
more of the best of Europe. This time, we're acquiring
a taste for all things Scottish! [ Bagpipes play ] This is "Glasgow
and Scottish Passions." Thanks for joining us. ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ Glasgow, one of Britain's
most underrated stops, is bursting with history, pride,
and a love of life. Its people like to joke that
they're "British by passport, Scottish by the grace of God." And that's perfectly clear
in this vibrant city. We'll enjoy Glasgow, with
its thriving commercial center. We'll be charmed by Glaswegians. -Buy us a drink.
-"Buy us a drink." [ Laughter ] We'll see
some amazing public art, and then admire the designs of Glasgow's
most beloved artist, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and kick back with locals
in a pub. Then, we'll head out for
the ultimate Scottish castle, and experience
some true Scottish passions: We'll sample some whisky
where it's made, get a lesson on the bagpipes, before enjoying
the Highland Games. The island called
"Great Britain" includes England, Wales,
and Scotland. Just an hour west of Edinburgh
is Glasgow. From there, we'll visit
Stirling Castle, Falkirk, Speyside for whisky, and Airth
for the Highland Games. In its 19th-century heyday,
Glasgow -- on the River Clyde -- was the second city
of the British Empire. It was at the forefront of the Industrial Revolution.
A century ago, with over a million people -- that's about twice
its current population -- it was a powerhouse. They say it produced 25% of
the world's oceangoing ships. But after World War II,
tough times hit Glasgow, giving it a rough edge
and a run-down image. In the last generation, Glasgow embarked on a creative
city-wide rejuvenation scheme. And today, the city has
an energetic cultural scene and a unique flair
for art and design. These days, the River Clyde
produces not ships, but good times. ♪♪ The grand train station,
busy with commuters, is a reminder of both
the city's industrial past and its current recovery. George Square sprawls
before the city hall. The square is a<i> Who's Who</i>
of statues, which are especially appreciated
by the seagulls. There's the great Scotsman,
James Watt, who perfected the steam engine that helped power Europe
into the Industrial Age. Here are Scotland's
two top literary figures: Robert Burns
and Sir Walter Scott. Along with its industrial
and working-class heritage, the city prides itself
on its playful irreverence. Here, in front of
the Gallery of Modern Art, the honorable Duke of Wellington is graced
with a Glaswegian crown. One out of every five Scots
lives in greater Glasgow, and Glaswegians are friendly,
unpretentious, and happy to rave
about their town. [ Laughs ] -[ Speaking indecipherably ]
-What's that? -[ Speaking indecipherably ]
-What's that mean? The accent can be
a little hard to understand. Say it again, like,
real slow and clear. -[ Speaking indecipherably ] [ Laughter ] -I don't know what you said,
but all right, see you later. But eventually,
I developed an ear for it. And the people here are just,
like, incredibly friendly? [ Laughs ] They say you guys know
how to have fun. -Oh, yeah. -Yeah. I mean... -Definitely. -Oh, you are? Ah! "They don't have money
to be grumpy." [<i> Bagpipes playing
as ringtone</i> ] You see?
-[ Laughs ] That's great. Yeah. That is... Actually, that's philosophical.
I love that. [ Laughter ] This is a very Scottish thing, to walk around
with your golf clubs. [ Laughs ] Tell me a joke.
[ Laughs ] Don't? [ Laughs ] To celebrate your city,
what do you say? Like...? -"Buy us a drink."
[ Laughter ] Bye-bye. Bye.
-Thanks, guys. -East End rules! [ Laughter ] Glasgow's busy Buchanan Street is the middle of a Z-shaped
pedestrian boulevard nicknamed the "Golden Zed." With the top shops in town, it's also called
the "Style Mile." The Argyll Arcade, the town's
oldest shopping passage, from 1827,
is known for jewelry. ♪♪ Princes Square
is an old building dressed with a modern facade and a delightful
Art Nouveau atrium. ♪♪ Buchanan Street
has a lively vibe with a variety
of street musicians. Music is a big part
of the city's personality. -[ Woodwind playing ] -[ Singing indistinctly ] -[ Guitar playing ] ♪♪ -To be sure we understand
all we're seeing, I'm joined by my friend and
fellow tour guide, Colin Mairs. Glasgow's rough urban-scape,
with its many blank walls, provides an inviting canvas for
city-approved street artists. I love these huge murals! -Yes, Glasgow's become famous
for them. It's really a thing
the city has embraced, and the city council
pay good street artists to put up big murals, and it avoids having just
ugly tagging around the place. -So, they're taking
that counterculture energy, and they're turning it
into something positive? -Yes, there's even a city map. You can follow a trail going
around the city center and see all these big murals. -So, this one's cool. The guy's trying
to flag down the taxi, and the balloons are lifting it
out of his reach. -Yeah, well, the artist actually
has put himself in the painting. He's the taxi driver.
That's his face there. And his name is Rogue One,
which you can also see on the registration plate
on the taxi. The other one up top there is the girl
with a magnifying glass. That's by an artist called Smug. -And there's his name
on the... -It's on her pendant, yeah. She looks like she's maybe
picking someone up. -Is it just fanciful, or is there some political
meaning to this? -Well, perhaps what she's
making a comment on there is actually the building
that she's on the side of. That is a lap-dancing club, so she's maybe picking up
a small man who's going in there
to the lap dancing. -Oh, she's insulting the men
that go to the strip joint. -Potentially. -That is huge
and just photorealistic. -It's a nice one, eh? So, this one actually probably
represents our patron saint. See the halo around
the back of his head? -Yeah.
-And his name is Mungo. We're near to the cathedral, and one of his miracles was
bringing a bird back to life. -It's an old story
in a modern city. -Yes. -For more Scottish art, we're heading inside
and visiting Glasgow's Kelvingrove
Art Gallery and Museum. The Kelvingrove's collection
fills a grand, purpose-built, 100-year-old building. This "Scottish Smithsonian"
displays everything from the natural world
to the avant-garde, from Salvador Dalí... to the city's best
collection of work by Charles Rennie Mackintosh
and his artistic partners. In the late 19th
and early 20th centuries, Mackintosh challenged the norms
of this practical port city with architecture and design that had fun
with playful details, creative use of glass, and a stimulating blend
of organic swoops with vertical lines. It was both stark and light
at the same time. The Kelvingrove Gallery shows how Mackintosh,
his wife, Margaret, and their artistic friends
drew inspiration from nature to create this Scottish take
on Art Nouveau. Along with architecture, it was interior design
and the applied arts. ♪♪ Their works show
a strong Japanese influence. They also drew inspiration from
the Arts and Crafts Movement, with an eye to simplicity,
clean lines, respect for tradition, and an emphasis
on individuality -- craftsmanship
over mass production. While not really appreciated
in his time, today Mackintosh single-handedly
boosts tourism in his hometown. The Kelvingrove
also has several rooms dedicated to
Scottish Romanticism from the 19th century. Here, you can tour
the country's scenic wonders and its history on canvas. The story of Scotland is a romantic blend
of myth and history. As far back as the 14th century, Robert the Bruce
heroically rallied the clans. Paintings evoke
the wonder of the Highlands -- vast, sparsely populated, but integral
to the soul of Scotland. Proud warriors sport
clan regalia, as if emboldened
by kilts and plaid. The tragedy of painful struggles
with England resulted in clan massacres and downtrodden Scots,
left behind as loved ones follow
the promise of a new land. But still, a resilient nation
survives, spirit intact. ♪♪ The adjacent park
has a finely manicured green dedicated to lawn bowling. By providing this
to the public for free, the city wants
to keep people interested in this traditional sport. Tourists are welcome
to give it a try. Lawn bowling is a lot
like bocce or<i> pétanque</i> , but the balls are bigger
and "biased" -- that means they're lopsided
on purpose to let players throw curves. The object: to get your ball
as close as you can to the little ball
and have fun at the same time. This part of town,
Glasgow's West End, is thriving with a new energy. As better times are taking hold, there are plenty of
trendy restaurants and bars. [ Celtic music playing ] And we're capping our day
at the Ben Nevis Pub -- because tonight
there's a traditional session. That means music --
not a formal concert, but a casual gathering
of musical friends. For the price of a beer, we've got an evening of good
conversation and live music. [ Celtic music continues ] ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ Tonight, the group's
a United Kingdom of musicians -- young men from England, Wales,
Northern Ireland, and, of course, Scotland. ♪♪ ♪♪ Yeah! Bravo! [ Cheers and applause ] We're driving across
the Lowlands to the castle of Stirling. This historic castle is
at the crossroads of Scotland: midway between Edinburgh
and Glasgow. Rising above a plain where
the Lowlands meet the Highlands, it's no surprise that
this strategic castle has hosted many
of the biggest names -- and biggest battles --
of Scottish history. Stirling was the seat of the
kings and queens of Scotland. Imagine --
Mary, Queen of Scots passed through
these imposing gates. To the Scots,
this patriotic heart of Scotland is like Bunker Hill,
Gettysburg, and the Alamo, all rolled into one. From these ramparts, you can see where
the three pivotal battles of Scotland's
13th- and 14th-century Wars of Independence
from English rule took place: the Battle of Stirling Bridge, where, against all odds,
the courageous William Wallace defeated the English army; the Battle of Falkirk, where Wallace was then toppled
by a vengeful English king; and the Battle of Bannockburn, where -- in the wake
of Wallace's defeat -- Robert the Bruce
rallied the Scots to kick out the English
once and for all -- well, at least
for a few generations. It was said, "He who holds
Stirling, holds Scotland." This castle was
the preferred home of Scottish kings and queens in the Middle Ages
and Renaissance -- and their 500-year-old statues
still decorate the walls. In the 16th century,
the Stuart monarchs turned this castle
into a showpiece of Scotland -- and a symbol of one-upsmanship
against England. Much later, in the 18th century, Scotland was embroiled
in a civil war: Scottish rebels,
called the "Jacobites," wanted to put a Catholic Stuart
on the throne in London. They failed,
and the British military took over Scotland's
beloved Stirling Castle. It became a garrison --
filled with Redcoats. To this day, Stirling Castle
provides a base for the British --
not the Scottish -- military. In 1746, these very cannon fired on Scottish rebels. And you'll notice
the castle still flies the Union Jack
of the United Kingdom. Within a short drive
of Stirling, near the town of Falkirk, is a hard-to-miss
roadside attraction: the Kelpies. Towering above the tourists, these giant steel horse heads have become a symbol
of this region. They're rooted in a mix
of mythology and real history: Kelpies are magical, waterborne, shape-shifting spirits
of Scottish lore, who often took the form
of a horse. And, historically, horses
were used as beasts of burden to power Scotland's
industrial output. The Kelpies stand beside
an actual historic canal where, two centuries ago, hardworking real horses
towed heavily laden barges. ♪♪ Scotland was an important player
in the Industrial Revolution, thanks partly to its network
of shipping canals. Using dozens of locks
to lift barges up and across
Scotland's hilly spine, these canals moved cargo
efficiently, but were slow. The Falkirk Wheel is
a clever modern solution to the age-old problem
of a slow series of locks. ♪♪ The innovative contraption
slowly turns like a nautical Ferris wheel --
raising or lowering boats between two canals separated
by 80 vertical feet. What used to take hours
now takes about five minutes. The Falkirk Wheel
is an important link in an ambitious project to restore
the long-neglected canals connecting Edinburgh
and Glasgow. Today, this 70-mile-long
aquatic connection between Scotland's
leading cites -- while no longer industrial -- is much enjoyed by walkers
and canal boaters. ♪♪ A four-hour drive takes us
to the River Spey. Speyside marks the heart
of Scotland's whisky country. It's practically a pilgrimage for aficionados
of Scotch whisky. Of the hundred or so
whisky distilleries in Scotland, about half lie near the valley
of the River Spey. Its prized waters, along with a favorable climate
and soil for barley, have attracted distillers here
for centuries. Along with natural resources, a critical element
of the Scotch-making process is quality barrels. The Speyside Cooperage welcomes
visitors with guided tours. From an observation deck,
you'll watch master coopers making casks for distilleries
throughout Scotland. Perhaps the single
biggest factor in defining
whisky's unique flavor is the barrel it's aged in. The process is essentially
the same today as it was centuries ago. In order to be watertight, the oak staves are lassoed
tightly by metal hoops. Tight-fitting lids
are banged into place and sealed with a calking
of fresh-water reeds. Finally, the inside
is artfully charred, creating a carbonized coating that helps give whisky
its golden hue and flavor. The United States
actually contributes to the character
of Scotch whisky because most of the barrels
used in Scotland are made from the staves of hand-me-down bourbon casks
from Kentucky. It's impressive
to watch the coopers -- who are paid by the piece -- work with such intensity
and focus. The distilleries
that put Speyside on the map for whisky lovers are bigger and more corporate
than others in Scotland, and they include
some famous names -- including one of the world's
best-selling brands, Glenfiddich. The sprawling
Glenfiddich Distillery offers tours
that show the basic steps in making
Scotland's beloved spirit. They've been turning barley
into whisky here since 1886. After the grain has been
germinated, or "malted," it's put in these tanks
called "mash tuns." Water -- distinctive
to each region -- is added to this mash
to extract the sugars. The resulting liquid, or "wort," is transferred to tanks
called "washbacks." Yeast is added to ferment
the sugars into alcohol. The liquid at this stage
is called the "wash." The wash is then heated
in copper stills where it's concentrated,
or "distilled," into spirits. The shape of the stills and the combination of
various strengths of the spirits are unique to each distillery. It's like moonshine
gone corporate. The spirit is then
put into wooden casks, where it matures for
a minimum of three years before it can be called "whisky"
in Scotland. Each distillery
keeps its secrets about making its whisky, but they're wide open
about sharing the result. As I'm not driving, I get to experience
this Scottish treasure right where it's made. A wee dram of whisky
puts me in the mood for the stirring drone
of Scottish bagpipes and a good-looking Scotsman
in a kilt. [ Bagpipes playing ] The Scottish are particularly
passionate about their pipes. ♪♪ Beautiful. I love that, and I love the way
it's just solid and then soft. Can you give me a tour of your
bagpipe to explain how it works? -So, on here, we have a bag
which contains the air, which is traditionally made
of sheep skin. And to power it,
this is a blowpipe. You just blow in there, and you have
a little one-way valve which stops the air coming out. And you have your drones, which creates the background
harmonics and a steady hum. You have your chanter, which the music
and melody comes from, similar to a clarinet
or an oboe. -So, basically you fill
the bladder with air -- -You fill it with air. -You power it by squeezing. -Power it by squeezing, and then you play the melody
on the chanter. -Can you show me the whole thing
working together? -Let's see how it works, yeah. [ Inhales deeply, blows ] [ Bagpipes playing ] ♪♪ ♪♪ [ Bagpipes playing ] -Anywhere in Scotland, pipers stir the soul
and lead the parade. And this parade is kicking off
the Highland Games in the town of Airth. The band is led
by the local clan chieftain. After a lap around the field,
the competition begins. And today,
communities throughout Scotland still host a Highland Games, where kilted athletes from
the surrounding countryside gather to show off their speed,
strength, and grace. ♪♪ A Highland Games
is an all-day celebration of local sport and culture, like a track meet and
a county fair rolled into one. It's a fine day out
for the family. [ Child shrieks ] In the heavy events -- billed as feats
of Highland strength -- brawny, kilted athletes
push their limits. -[ Grunts ]
-In the weight throw, competitors spin
like bulky ballerinas before releasing
a heavy ball on a chain. The hammer throw involves
a similar technique with an iron ball
on a long stick. And the "stone put" has been
adopted in international sports as the shot put. In this event, Highlanders swing a 56-pound weight
over a horizontal bar that keeps getting higher
and higher. -[ Grunts ] -And, of course,
there's the caber toss: Pick up a giant log,
called a "caber," get a running start, and release it end over end
with enough force to make the caber flip
all the way over and land at the
12-o'clock position. Meanwhile, the track events run
circles around all that muscle. The races offer fun
for all those attending -- including events for the kids. -Ready?
[ Starter pistol fires ] -And visitors from faraway lands
are welcome to join in, as well. Okay, I think
I've found<i> my</i> sport. Lifting what's called
a "manhood stone" is a standard part
of these games. Brawny lads impress their girls
with a show of strength. ♪♪ With a wee dram of courage, competitors lift and carry
the 250-pound stone -- or at least give it a good try. [ Laughter ] I taught this guy
everything he knows. ♪♪ [ Cheers and applause ] ♪♪ There's always a show-off. And it's not all brute strength. Highland dancing shows off
both athleticism and grace. With years of practice,
young girls dance with an impressive confidence
and fluidity. A lone piper accompanies
serious wee dancers who toe their routines
with intense concentration. Within a few years,
they'll likely be dancing with the same mastery
as the older girls. Thanks for sharing with us
a few of the experiences that make Scotland a unique
and rewarding land to visit. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time,
keep on travelin'. [ Bagpipes playing ] -This is "Glasgow
and Scottish Passions." Thanks for joining us.
[ Laughs ] -All right, one more. ♪♪ -The Battle of Bannockburn... Foul-kirk. Falkirk! And the Battle of Bannockburn,
where in... [ Mouths "Wow" ] ♪♪
Seems good. Never even knew twice as many cunts lived here 100 years ago.
Beautiful. I love Scotland.
That was actually not bad, apart from some cunt ruining the dukes cone the day it got filmed.
When has certain streets in town ever been called 'The Golden Z'?