Saying goodbye to a Legend...

today we finally disassemble a legend [Music] with no parts markup and only a 75 build fee redux gaming pcs are the obvious choice for gamers who demand the best without paying extra with as little as a few clicks you'll get a pc optimized for you and the games you play at a price that fits your budget and all redux pcs are backed by two year warranty to see all that redux has to offer and to start configuring your next pc head to the link in the description below alright this guy has been sitting in the back bench for over a year maybe a year and a half now the one we built to replace it's sitting there no that's because we're going to probably do a different video about cloning creating a dot iso for moving one windows per drive build to another drive which we've talked about in the past but it's nvme so it's a little bit different to do but anyway i know those words are hard this has been sitting very long oh jeez i made those tighter one here because i got tired of it flopping open too easy and i might have pushed the tabs a little too tight but anyway this loop has been sitting here like remember i took the pump out when we started that one so these are just some of the leftover parts are sitting here most of the chrome on these fittings is probably not worth reusing because we talked about how over time the the fittings will start to break down the nickel plating but what i'm going to show you real quick is i'm going to actually start up this bottom loop because it's still complete in fact let's take the panels off so you guys can actually see the loops that's the 560 rad this is a single radiator right here it's a 560 millimeter 45 millimeter thick crazy ass pc rad thing you probably cool a car with it or at least a motorcycle for sure but most this is the the true fluid not the view because the view has the swirlies in there this is basically the same thing without the swirlies but anytime you go with any sort of an opaque fluid it settles if you don't run it so for your guys's enjoyment and my nastiness to deal with this now i'm gonna show you guys what that looks like when it remixes and then i'm gonna completely tear this case down take all the components out of it we will be using this case in the future that much i promise you i love this case it's just nothing is worthy of being inside of it right now maybe when threadripper releases its 5000 series threadrippers which will give you the ipc we need intel's reportedly coming out with new extreme platform stuff we've got ddr5 coming out we got some serious upgrades about to happen to everyone's computers now when it comes to the back side this was definitely one of those instances where you just don't care about the back because of the fact that you don't see it like that you can even see i just kept orange cables from when it was orange because i'm like oh you don't see it anyway so what's it matter let's go and fire up the loop real quick and see what kind of grodiness comes out of there i mean it actually went back to looking proper pretty quickly though it's not that bad now that's what it normally looks like it's just completely settled the nice thing is about it remixing as easily as it did means that it's probably not going to be sitting there all nasty like gunked up somewhere so that's why i went ahead and just powered it up so you guys could see one what the fluid originally looked like and two so that i could get it kind of mixing around because i am going to have to drain this loop and you get to see why drain plugs are so important but yeah that they mixed up nice there's times i've seen it like go to mix up and you'll see like big chunks just like like a big boogers just floating around in there i do like and miss that color that color was so just slime like would you call it you always called it nickelodeon gak yeah yeah it looked like a big slime too yeah it looks like slime i think nick's slime was like not as bright though i do miss that color anyway all right that mixed up enough so the nice thing about this is uh there are still totally usable parts in this system this was actually the uv strip it was a dual rgb and then on one side it's just uv because this is a uv reactive coolant but like the these are the cable mod cables which have the aluminum combs on there so these are still totally usable these are plugging in these will work with any evga power supply science about evga power supplies and not just the fact that i'm a fan girl for evga but the fact that they use the same pin outs on all their power supplies new ones old ones like once you're past like the nova g2s which had like the early not the nova gt's the early novas past that they're all the same plugs which are great so you should also verify that though on your own before you go plug it in so big j says they're all compatible i'm saying do your own due diligence but i'm saying that i now have more green cables that i can use somewhere if i wanted and you guys are probably asking me like well then why didn't you just use those cables with the new build that you did because i didn't use the 1600 watt power supply in the new build remember i used a thousand watt and there was absolutely no reason to put this in there however if a new threadripper build or platform does come out then i might do a multi-gpu completely pointless setup for the sake of it's just completely unusable which makes it great so before we drain the loop i want to get all these wires and stuff out of here because my drain plug is in the bottom you guys are gonna this is one of the drain systems that i was most happy about because this this used to be soft tubing down in the basement and then i completely changed it over to rigid tubing everywhere which was just kind of the first time i had done that normally i would use soft tubing anywhere you couldn't see it and it was hiding but the problem is that when i would do that the plasticizer would start to leach off of the soft tubing and then make its way into the loop and we thought that might have been what was causing some of the discolorations that we saw with the orange and the yellow in this system so because i switched it all to uh petg meant that i at least uh ruled that out ever seen a 1600 watt power supply look so small i think next time i build this i'd like to do the cable routing to where each individual cable strand is measured so i can get those perfect bends but then that means i'd have to make it myself and that scares me because i've never actually made cables before and i really fear that i'd screw it up there this is like 20 or 25 pounds worth of cables and power supply one of the things i never really updated with skunks as i went was the ssd solution so i had a 240 a 480 and then two four terabyte spinning drives so it was one of those like you know it started to really feel slow as the ssds got full and they were sata ssds so this thing desperately needed updates in terms of that these were always cool these are fan splitter sleds that you used to be able to get from like the various like mod shops so it could be powered by molex and then it would just split full speed to three pin fans things have changed over the years where now everything's pwm so that probably wouldn't have been as exciting today and it was just velcroed on there but this is nice if you need to split three three pin for something i actually had this being controlled off the motherboard by the way so that's why nothing was plugged in here i created a reverse cable that and i made this cable myself that plugging into that would then just split the signal to all the other fans and then i would set the motherboard on the high amp header to uh three pin dc fan and then i could control the duty cycle in the motherboard so it allowed me to control these were the these were the top fans these are the bottom ones right here so you can see i have one there and you can see once again no molex plugged into there however i was able to control them because this cable which i made was going to the motherboard then splitting that dc percentage to the fans now it was always a little bit less right because 12 volt actually i don't think it was it when you reduce the percentage it reduce the voltage right but as it splits to each individual fan each fan got a little bit less than that actual voltage but the motherboard did a pretty good job at uh providing plenty of power for the fans most of the time i ran the fans at full speed i did have a fan profile set up but because i've always been the kind of guy that cared about maximum performance and less about noise meant that i just would run them at full speed so there is the tubing in the basement look at that not a whole lot is there literally one tube that's a 90 bend up to the past three fittings and then one that comes down and goes into the rad so you can see how clean that was that was a very long run but only a simple 90. and then here is my drain plug or drain valve down here that was on a swivel so i could move it which means because it's closed off right now i could take off that cap put in a soft tube and then when i open that it drains really well because that's equally at the bottom of the loop where the rat is so the only coolant that wouldn't make its way out is some of the coolant that would get stuck in the bottom few rows of the radiator right there i can't remember if this one's delidded i don't think it's deleted i also don't remember which cpu this is in here oh yeah that's the one we lapped also it wasn't the uh greatest lap job but still was a laptop nonetheless you can see how there was a high spot oh yeah it's deleted all right so on the back now i've got a tube going to one of our five gallon little drain drums that we got and i'm taking off one of these upper caps i've talked about this a million times this just makes draining a whole lot easier because remember air in well liquid out has equal air in otherwise it'll just go slowly so opening up a cap at the top one that doesn't have water going through it somewhere is a uh must so now i'm just going to open up the valve that i showed you on the back side and we're just going to let gravity do its thing so since the loop is complete and we have areas like i mean this kind of stuff is going to happen when you use that translucent fluid or that opaque fluid so i want to do a little bit of flushing on this before i take all the pieces off i'm probably still going to require disassembly of blocks and things to get it to look right but this at least will make things a little bit easier so i've capped off everything on the backside i'm going to fill with this is just drinking water actually i'm perfectly fine with just filling all this kind of stuff with drinking water because i want to get a lot of this broken up as much as possible and i'll just flush this a few times yeah there we go see how much of that's still in there like in the pump and stuff so what i'm going to do now is my old method of continuing to like i'm going to crack the drain valve on the back and i'm going to continue to feel this while it's going down and eventually it'll get clear so you can see how the level's going down that's because the drain valve is just barely cracked to allow it to continue to bypass the radiator and let some of the fluid work its way out so i'm constantly constantly replacing the green fluid with clean clear fluid i'm just going to keep doing this until it gets a lot less green and turns a lot more clear okay so this is the last bottle i'm gonna put through of the clear we probably did about 10 bottles we also were using the hot part the hot faucet part so that uh the heat could kind of break up some of the sediment you can see that's still not perfectly clear but this is a better starting point than just having all the green stuff the blocks when you see the face of them they're pretty gross we're going to clean those fortunately they're not hard to clean we've showed in the past how to do that it's definitely clearer than it was though that's for sure ew look at that look at the gpus that was on the tip of my brain whoa that's fine the size of that radiator for those of you that have never seen a 560 rad allow me to give you some size comparisons so everyone talks about oh my god 40s are so big that's a 480. there's your 360. there's your 240. so any questions as to why i went with a 560 in a case that would support it it's the best part about this case when there's nothing in it and it's also really light like that anyway we'll leave that like that for now where i move over here i'm just gonna take the motherboard and stuff up oh yeah and can we just take a moment to appreciate stuff like removable motherboard trays and take a moment to also still be mad about thermaltake putting case labs out of business for stealing their own designs and then suing them for it you heard me right thermaltake sued case labs over their own designs that thermaltake stole from them let that be a lesson always pat in your designs anyway if you guys are wondering why i don't like thermaltake that's always been why it's been so long since i've been able to do this and just be like look at the amazing power that i hold in my hands sad day got to clean up all these fittings which i think these fittings are actually going to be reusable because i changed these when the gpu loop was redone when i did the 20 dtis when i switched from the titan xps and so i think those will be salvageable of course we're using our trusty ifixit kit no explosions on this one no time doesn't make sense nice about the magnetic tips on the ifixit it also makes them really easy to put back together okay well that worked i love when it just falls apart in my hand all right so most of it as you can see was actually stuck to the plexi which is the perfect that'll come nice and clean don't use too much alcohol on acrylic obviously make sure you clean it right away because the alcohol will discolor it if you leave it on there i guess i could technically do this i can just undo this this is the rear light bar thing see now there's no electronics going to it so we just clean this part under the sink that's loose because obviously i wanted to be able to get it off this part right here i'm going to use the toothbrush we'll come back when it's all done so you can see what a clean one looks like next to the dirty one so you can see i what i love to show is so many people think oh man i need a new block or something because they'll look at the discoloration and they'll think that that means it's ruined it's not the you'd be surprised just how robust a lot of these parts actually are i want to get that flow plate off there yeah you'd be surprised how clean this stuff will get if you just take your time with it so just to give you a little bit of a reminder this is what the unclean one looks like and with a little bit of time and effort and without even having to take the block off the graphics card that is what the clean one looks like so you can see it looks brand new i mean that quite honestly looks like it's brand new out of the box i just used the isopropyl alcohol on the nickel plated part took the o-ring out cleaned it re-lubricated it uh not lubricated but just dampened it so i could get all the stuff off i'm going to use alcohol specifically to clean the o-ring and then i took the plexiglas part because this is plexi over to the sink and i just used hand detergent with my toothbrush and then worked uh all the corners and stuff to make sure i could get it all out and then i took a microfiber towel to wipe it all dry we'll actually use the air compressor thing a little air blower right there this guy to get all of the water off make sure all the water and stuff was any anywhere it got wet in the card was also blown out and then used a clean brand new microfiber to clean the plexi make sure i don't push hard to scratch it and that's what we're left with so this is a perfectly perfect working order 2080 ti water cooled this one still works but obviously it doesn't look as good and we're gonna do the same thing real quick to the cpu block cpc blue block so that's the cpus before looks like we cooled it with mustard so we'll just go ahead and take this one apart on camera because it's only four screws you'll see how simple these the new vector blocks they come apart from the bottom of the cold plate just like any other old ek block only these are a little bit simpler on the inside it's like glued that's there's nothing holding it together right now just other than the paste that there we go essentially the goopy stuff made so the rgb ring is right there and you can see the flow plate and everything now is a part of the block so you have to worry about taking this apart and getting in the wrong order um there's the jet plate there's our mustardy looking stuff there's our oh o-ring that's why you take the o-ring out and clean it because look it's gross in there so [Music] so this particular cold plate as you can see still has some greenish yellow in there this is the one that had the air exposed to it for ever since i took out the other loop a long time ago uh probably six months or more so this one's looking like it's stained some of it's coming off this is one of those that if i were to use my crest 3d white um i could probably get it to come off because it's got the abrasive crystals and just take some time working my way you know through there it would come clean it's just with the first just initial soap it's not coming clean so i'm just gonna put this one back together for now i'm not gonna worry too much about it because of the fact that uh i'm not gonna be using this block again probably i don't know maybe maybe not so let's go ahead and let me button let's block back up and we'll talk about future plans for this case i said earlier in this video that if something epic comes along from intel or amd whether it be the new ryzen threadripper 5000 series threadripper or intel apparently has an answer coming with some of their x-series stuff i don't know what they're going gonna call it in terms of x whatever this chassis has some more tear down to deal with like i gotta take this off obviously i gotta deep clean it it's textured so dirt really just gets its way like stuck in there like it just gets in all of the media blasted panels as you can see this is still the absolute best case i've ever built in for water cooling because the amount of stuff that you can fit in it got to take the front fans off it can be fully disassembled with screws i mean case labs is one of those cases that like it was the first one to really make it you know actually when you would buy these by default they came flat packed unless you paid for an assembly service where they would then send it like in a crate kind of a deal but i do want to you bring this case back alive no i'm not going to sell it i've had i don't know how many people message me asking me if they could buy it because again case labs would defunct five years ago or so so it's one of those maybe even longer than that so it's one of those this is this is kind of like a barn find in a way you just cannot get these anymore rarely does anyone sell them because they know that these were just like the symbol of like the ultimate just overkill case they're not the most stylish they're very rectangular in 90 degrees squared and just nothing exciting about them but what you can fit inside them and the fact that there are aftermarket products out there still floating around when the case company kind of went defunct so did a lot of the aftermarket support but there are distro plates for the bottom there's distro plates for the back wall i mean all sorts of cool stuff that we can do and stuff that we can have made or even make ourselves if i finally want to take a shot at making distro plates to where i think it'd be neat if i had a distro plate on the bottom and just so played on the top but the top distro plate had fittings lined up so i could still use two tube reservoirs sticking off of it but then the district plate has the pump built into them and then they meet to the bottom distro plate where you have tubes coming up for the cpus and it all passes through you know fittings on the bottom because one of the things you might have noticed on my 560 rad here i don't want to tilt it because it'll leak is this notch right here that i dremeled in there it's kind of ugly but that's because with me using a 45 millimeter thick radiator this pass-through fitting that you see sticking down the bottom right here that lined up perfectly vertical with the graphics card depth so the tube could come straight up with the with the original cards prior to the 2080s ti's but that was about four millimeters too close to the radiator so the radiator was hitting it so that little that's just a shroud that goes on the side to make it look pretty so i had to notch that so it would clear it so that's literally how tight this was right here but if we had a distro plate that had different you know places where the fluid can come down and it was recessed back more then i'd be able to even recess the fans back farther without have them having them be flush against the grill because the problem with the fans being mounted on the outside this bracket in between pushes them really close to the side panel which means as the blades are turning if they're a high speed fan then you would hear the turbulence of the blade going past the grill so then it means i'd be able to actually scoot the radiator back recess it back more have the fans on this side of the bracket giving me i don't know another three or four millimeters of depth before they come anywhere actually more than that 25 millimeters plus that because it's the thickness of the fan plus the thickness of the metal pushing it back so we'd have something like 27 millimeters of space plus the three or four millimeters that exists before it hits that grille meaning then i could go with like whatever fans i want down here that are illuminated with lights that won't give me that terrible sound i tried to use the the 140 maglevs to get higher static pressure and higher airflow through them because those are just the old af140s which were never really intended for radiators but they still worked was just all i heard was because it was just scooping right past all those hexagons which was just giving a really weird turbulent sound and i couldn't listen to that so i left them non-lit up down there do you guys want to see me build another over-the-top multi-part series where we do custom stuff not not like oh look at the custom build i did with tubes no like actual custom one-off only exists in this case type of bill do you want me to bring it back if so it needs a new name it's not skunk works anymore i don't know what it's going to be but if you want to see that it's very important that you guys let me know comment down below like the video do all that stuff you would normally do to get a creator's attention to say yes we want you to do something or no we don't want you to do something that is also a valid answer anyway sound off in the comments below thanks for watching guys the retirement of the original skunk works build series slash project as we knew it potentially the rebirth or birth of something new thanks for watching guys and we'll see you in the next one

Channel: JayzTwoCents

Views: 508,661

Keywords: skunkworks, jayztwocents, jayztwocents skunkworks, overkill gaming pc, best overkill pc, best overkill gaming pc, intel, is intel dead, is amd better than intel, is intel losing to amd, why did jayztwocents switch to amd

Id: sRnd6nR0NcQ

Length: 23min 59sec (1439 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 03 2021