Replacing Belts with a Ball Screw on a 3D Printer (Cosplay 600 series)

hey everybody so you've seen the live strings for the cosplay 600 if you haven't click up here and watch those first and then come back to this video because I'm going to talk about where I am now so where I am now is I've got the cosplay 600 running seems to print just fine I have printed everything from little Martians what you saw on the livestream and I have printed XYZ cubes for calibration and these are finely tuned at this point and at this point I am down to trying to print you know actual figures and these guys are not turning out so well I am getting a lot of ringing which is to be expected because I'm moving a large amount of mass that big 600 by 400 bed that's a lot of mass to move around and so I will show you these close up but if you look at the first one I printed which is my orange Charizard here you'll notice that it has a lot of ringing like pretty much creates a scale around the entire Charizard and it's on all surfaces this was printed at a hundred millimeters per second basically just to see if I could I wanted to see if the printer could move that fast and it can so so that's a good first start so and then I I slowed it down a bit and this blue sort of headless Charizard because I ran out of test filament and the ringing is much better on this guy but it's still not great and this was printed half the speed 50 millimeters per second this could be acceptable for cosplay because I probably could sand down these sides or put putty on them or whatever but it's really not what I'm going for I'm going for a printer that can print props low layer height at a decent rate of speed not super fast I don't have to go 100 millimeters per second but at a decent rate of speed to actually you know produce good-looking props and then they can be finished then they can be made to look better I don't want to have to spend any more time sanding than I have to otherwise why have the big printer just print in multiple pieces and get better quality so anyway what are we gonna do about it well the original design of this printer was designed to where I could do ball screws that was the original plan and so I had bought a 1605 ball screw here from Zil Tech and this is a beautiful ball screw and if I was doing something like C and Z this would be perfect but I found very quickly that's what I had installed first and what I found very quickly was that that ball screw just to slow five-millimeter pitch on that was just painfully slow it took 640 steps of that stepper motor to go around one time and so that wasn't going to cut it so what I have done is temporarily I went back to the the belt and so I went with a dual belt drive on the cosplay 600 that's what I'm running now that's what produced these chars arts and what's giving me the problems something I was aware of I'm not a huge fan of belts particularly when moving around a large from out of mass I know there's going to be ringing but what I'm hoping is now that I've ordered a 16 10 ball screw which has twice the pitch of that 16:05 I'm hoping now I've got the torque I've got the turning power and I've got the speed still in order to actually print fast while moving around this much mass and still produce high-quality prints so what I'm going to do in this video I'm going to be switching out the belt drive that's currently on this the dual belts and I'm going to switch that out for a single 16:10 ball screw and we're gonna find out they're switching out the belts for a ball screw does that solve my problem does it have that big of an impact on quality and that's what I'm doing today here on Kersey fabrications let's go [Music] so my original plan was to do the ball screw and not to do belts at all so as you can see I already have this piece designed that actually mounts the ball screw mount to it so this is ready to go from there all I need to do is Mount the motor which will drive the ball screw and I've got this really high torque this is about the biggest NEMA 17 you can buy so I'm going to mount that there get this going and you saw the results from the belt drive let's get this swapped out that I'm going to print out another Charizard or two same speeds we're going to see if the ball screw actually made any difference for the performance and the quality of this machine let's get going [Music] [Music] [Music] and with that the physical modification to the machine are done the only thing we have to worry about at this point is is there enough current going to the stepper motor so that it doesn't skip the only thing we have to change software wise is we need to go into marlin and change the steps per millimeter for the y axis so that it knows how far to turn the screw in order to go one millimeter of distance for that let's go to the whiteboard so up here on the board I've got all the math you need for a 16 10 ball screw first we know that the standard stepper motor has 200 steps per revolution we know that we've got a driver micro step set at 1/16 this is going to greatly depend on the stepper driver you have and which board you're using and then we have the screw pitch was just 10 millimeters so using those numbers we take our 200 we multiply it times 16 because now we're microstepping that uh that stepper motor and then we divide by 10 because that's how many millimeters we're moving in that revolution so we need to change our software to 320 steps per millimeter and we can go to Marlin and do that we can either do it from the menu or we can do it from a computer interface if we have that set up I'll show you how to do it from the menu so here I am at the Marlin interface on the prayer I'm going to go to the control menu motion and all the way down to steps per millimeter and then the Y steps per millimeter because that is my y-axis and then this is going to take a minute so here is my phone interface because I'm tired of waiting I'm going to do M 92 which is set access steps per millimeter and then I'm gonna do y 320 and press the play button now we've set it and I'm actually going to store that as M 500 which stores my parameters now if we go back into the control settings we should see those motion settings steps per millimeter Y steps 320 we're all set and ready to go let's see if the printer moves the way it should back at the printer let's see if it will auto home or if it screams at us because it doesn't have the horsepower to do it [Music] there we go we need to increase the horsepower there not going to work nope [Music] well it turns out the acceleration was just turned up too high it was turned up to a thousand it obviously can't accelerate that fast due to the mass it's moving half did to 500 seems to be working fine now it told me it was all the way up takes a while all right there we go so let's move it around a little bit see how it moves prepare move access mu Y and at a time looking pretty good so let's try a test print so I went to print my test print here and I find out real fast that the printer won't do an auto level procedure turns out i stud one more setting I need to change in the Marlin source code there is a setting called XY underscore probe under course speed by default that setting is at eight thousand millimeters per minute which is way too fast for this printer I have that to four thousand and it didn't have any problems and then I was able to get on with my test print from that point on [Music] [Music] so here you'll see I actually did two test prints I did an orange one and then a pink one the orange one was done with 1/16 my first steppin figured out that that's probably too fast I don't need 320 steps and I changed that to 1/8 microstepping which 1/2 my micro steps and gave the motor some extra torque we'll see the results in just a minute [Music] so new day new morning the pink Charizard is done printing so taking a look at this guy you'll notice that probably like half way up this Charizard you'll notice the same sort of artifacts we were seeing even when we were going fast and so his back is very curved and the tail is very wonky but if you notice about halfway up or so it starts getting nice again and more of my edges are straight like they should be it's still not perfect I'm still missing steps one thing I realized though was that I during the print I was seeing the same artifacts I'm like why are we still missing steps when we're going slower took a took a look at the stepper on the y-axis and Rowleys it was running hot at that point I checked the voltage on that stepper realized it was way higher than it needed to be I just went in while it was running and turned down the voltage on that stepper so that it cooled it down and and made it run cooler and I think that's where some of those lost steps were found again and I'm actually pretty happy with this print it like I said it's obviously not perfect I'm still not getting real straight lines like I should be but the the quality of the surface is much improved and in fact you can actually kind of see some ringing but while this process hasn't been a complete success I will say getting rid of the ringing has been a success well if you look really closely you can still see some waviness it's nowhere near what it was with the belts so I think I'm on the right track that's gonna be it for this video though I've done test prints I've shown you the process of converting the printer to a ball screw so that's why I was going to end the last video I was going to leave it there I had some pretty good charmander prints here and overall these charmander's do look great and but there was still a lot of wobble on what should be straight lines going down his back so after I after I cut the camera on that last one I spent the evening trying to figure out what was going on and the first thing I found was the coupler on the y-axis was loose just loose enough to where it was catching most of the time but it wasn't always catching and so you'd get these slight slips when the torque was high enough so I tightened that up next thing I noticed was that on the y-axis I was using a TMC 22:08 stepper in standalone mode so in standalone mode those steppers use stealth chop and the stealth Chop mode doesn't have as much torque as the spread cycle mode so what I did is I had to take the standalone 2208 had to follow the tutorial to actually switch that using one time programming over to the spread cycle mode and once I got those dialed in then I no longer had any torque problems on that axis well I was gonna go straight into the large print I wanted to show you the real payoff here these are two charmander's the first one on the left was the original one printed at 50 millimeters per second with the belts the one on the right is the one printed 50 millimeters per second with the ball screw notice that it virtually eliminates the ringing on this print and here we have 100 millimeter per second the one on the left is the original belt charmander and the one on the right is the one with the ball screw notice I've still got plenty of printing artifacts that I have to work out on this newly designed printer but the ball screw definitely takes care of the ringing in the print so mission accomplished as you can see behind me I went ahead and did a large print to test it out top to bottom and the full depth of the y-axis and so that's what we could have here we have a large vase mode print overall I think the quality is great on this the surfaces look great but there are some issues with the size of it we have some of the more steep angles they're not solid you can see some stringing so I think some of that can be compensated using the linear advanced features in Marlin I'll play with those settings and we'll see how that works out now obviously we have Jana here Jana wanted to see if she could pull this off the print plate because she thought it was such a cool looking print so Jana we've got a couple of tools here we have the one I suggest which is the scraper and then she wanted to try yes we have a kitchen spatula because it's such a big print she thought we would need a little bit something larger to get this off and let's not forget the fine okay so let's get started alright good be careful here let me help you get under there there you go you hear that yeah that's that's a good sound okay so why don't I'll hold this and you try to get the spatula under there uh-huh ooh I think it's working that's such a good sound okay be careful at this point we don't want to break it because we're almost there just go get the center safety first kids we'll do it together how about that all right so what can you do the honors take it off the bed so let's take a look at this look I get this so this is one of the reasons you print with glass if you print with glass you get this nice mirror finish on the bottom okay so what do you think what do you think about this the quality of the overall print as I spin it around but those are normally for 3d printing a link to the design in the description this was all finger verse it looks like red on the on the spool I like that so looking at the quality I would say there is minimal ringing on some of these hard edges but nothing at all like what we were seeing with the belt drive and on some of the really steep edges here since this was printed in base mode they're a little thin I'm not too worried about it like I said I think that they're they're expected for something this size okay useful 3d prints okay so from here I think it's about time to print something for cosplay since that's what this printer was for so that's what's going on next let me know what you think about this front yes let me know what you think about this print now that she can talk about it than I can in the comments below that's it for this video Skye thanks for watching fuzzy fabrications we'll see you all next time bye [Music]

Channel: Kersey Fabrications

Views: 78,385

Keywords: ball screw 3d printer, ball screw cnc, Ball Screw, lead screws, y axis lead screw, y axis ball screw, 3d printed cosplay, 3d printer ball screw vs belt, ball screw vs lead screw 3d printer, ball screw mechanism in cnc machine, 3d printer projects, 3d printer, 3d printing, lead screw, 3d printer upgrades, 3d printer with lead screw, diy 3d printer

Id: etA5rUMbcBs

Length: 19min 42sec (1182 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 27 2019