3D Printer’s Z-AXIS ULTIMATE Precision Upgrade – IS IT WORTH IT? (Linear Rails + Ballscrew)

So this is probably the most precise and  rigid Z-axis modification that you can   make on this KP3S cantilever-style  3D printer. The stock version of it   comes with POM wheels and a regular  lead screw. Both the wheels and the   brass nut are the sacrificial parts in  this basic and cost-effective setup.   But considering that companies could source  all the upgrade parts at way lower prices   when ordering in bulk, raises the question of  why no one does it. Is it solely due to just   increasing profit margins or is it more to it? Well, this is why today I am exploring this topic   and will be showing you exactly how much or how  little these upgrades improve the print quality   and what the advantages and disadvantages they  bring to the table. So let’s find out more!   The smooth and rigid motion systems  always fascinated me and it was only   a question of when I would make an upgrade  like this. But to make it is not that simple   when you have to reverse engineer around  obstacles and find the best viable solution.   However, after a couple of versions, I ended  up with a design like this. Printing it from   plastic sadly is not an option. Thankfully PCBWay  agreed to sponsor this testing video and CNC’ed   it from aluminum. And it looks absolutely  stunning, I was so excited to test it out.   But with that said, I think we all knew that  an upgrade like this comes at a way higher   cost than the common solution of POM wheels  and a basic lead screw. But hey, the closer   to the limit you push the steeper the prices  go up, that is a pretty natural phenomenon.   So first, let’s make some “before” upgrade  test prints. Those with previous ones where   I tested different-size nozzles will  give enough samples to make a diverse   range of examples. And just to note I had  all the gcode files from that video and the   printer configuration didn’t change in any  way for an apples-to-apples comparison.   This looks just sick! But please keep in mind  that aligning everything will take way more   time than with the regular setup. Especially  when using a rigid coupling for the true 1:1   motion transfer. Linear rails and ballscrews  are very stiff and even a small misalignment   can cause binding issues. This is where I have to  give another advantage to the common solution.   But I think we have all been waiting for the  comparison of the prints. And before that, I   have to note a very important thing – the lighting  angle. I can’t stress this enough, it makes such   a big difference in perceived 3D print quality  that you can make every print look good. So please   keep this in mind as I am trying to expose all  the imperfections for the best visual comparison.   With that said, here are the results... And the  difference is… Well, extremely minimal to say the   least. The print with the upgraded Z-axis looks  just a tiny tiny bit more consistent. But again   the difference is almost non-existent. Same with  the Cali-Dragon test print. Or maybe I should say   a completely different situation because there  was absolutely nothing that would tip the scale   in one or another direction. But maybe we get noticeably better quality   at faster speeds? As this modification also brings  less wobble on the X-axis rail to the Y direction   compared to the stock POM wheels solution. Well,  again both prints look almost identical and we can   only spot just a tiny bit more consistent layers  in the smaller details, nothing groundbreaking.   So I inhaled some more COPIUM, and I said -  *inhale* This must be the filament's fault. The   more consistent diameter and more fluid filament  must make the more consistent extrusion and   better show the difference in this comparison. But with the different filament, the Cali-Dragon   prints looked… well… again almost identical. Only  a couple of spots looked a tiny bit different.   Here unless I have time to observe two prints,  I can’t consistently tell which one is which.   And please keep in mind that it is harder to  show these imperfections on camera than to   spot them by looking at the print directly. So THIS is probably the best angle for you   to show the difference on the precision cube test  print. There is more consistency with the upgrade,   again not much and mainly the sides look  better. I really like this shot as it   sums up the overall difference pretty well. I also checked prints under the microscope and…   yeah… I have nothing more to say than I already  said. However, this is where things get more   interesting. Checking these two different  configurations with a runout gauge we can   see that the precision in Z-axis movement is  not a lie. It is dead-on with the upgrade.   Not to mention that I also increased Z-axis  speed and acceleration 4 times with linear   rails and ballscrew setup compared to stock  one. We are talking about acceleration values   that Ender-3 has by default on the X and Y axis.  Isn’t it kinda crazy when you think about it?   This not only looks mesmerizing in action  but also can cut significant time amount   on prints where you want to z-hop a lot for  the maximum print rate success. But I think,   this aspect is more relevant for 3D printing  enthusiasts who like to play and push their   machines to the limit ignoring the cost.  Nonetheless, two more advantages go on the list.   Other aspects of a setup like this are longevity,  consistency, and maintenance. Longevity-wise,   linear rails, and ballscrews will last way  longer with minimal maintenance, giving   you the most consistent results in a long run.  Both of them have these plastic parts that wipe   the path keeping the rolling balls clean inside.  So we have three more advantages on the list.   But this metal-on-metal action brings another  aspect – the noise as all the vibrations of the   motor are transferred through this extremely rigid  assembly. It is not noticeable with regular Z-axis   speeds and accelerations but the further  you push the exponentially louder it gets…   Not a huge problem but just something to note. And finally, the luck of the draw that inexpensive   linear motion parts from Aliexpress can be.  The ones I received were okay and like usual   only needed lubrication and moving back and  forth. But if you get unlucky and receive a   wobbly ballscrew then it can make things very  difficult as it is so rigid. So then, what is   my conclusion from all this? Would I upgrade  my other printers with a solution like this?   Well, it is not a short answer. Upgrading the one  small printer that you love the most and which has   such a simple but effective design – that makes  sense. But upgrading multiple just doesn’t justify   the cost and complexity wise for the improvements  that you get. And 3D printers that have dual Z   motors are already precise enough in this regard. Rather than for enthusiasts, I don’t think that   upgrade like this brings enough benefits. And  especially if you print at higher layers this   Z-axis imperfect movement will be less  noticeable. But if all you do is print   extremely thin layers this extra precision  will see the most benefit as precise z-axis   movement will be more critical here. Hopefully, I  covered all important aspects for those who were   interested or even planned an upgrade like this. If you have a question about it feel free to ask.   Also, check out my other videos to see the  great close-up comparisons of how certain   things affects the print quality. Thanks to everyone who supported   or still supports the channel. If you  want to contribute check the links in   the video description or at the end of the video. That is all from me and I will see you next time!

Channel: DIY PERSPECTIVE

Views: 122,912

Keywords: z axis linear rail, ball screw 3d printer upgrade, 3d printer z axis upgrade, 3d printer, 3d printing, 3d printer upgrades, 3d print quality improvement, perfect 3d prints, ugly layers fix, Improve Z-Axis Print Quality, printing problems and solutions, Kingroon KP3S upgrade, kp3s mods, z axis fix, perfect z axis movement, consistent layers, z axis mod, linear rail ballscrew, diy perspective, mod, mods, upgrades, linear rail upgrade, ball screw, ULTIMATE Precision Upgrade

Id: I7IaxzzCtdA

Length: 8min 20sec (500 seconds)

Published: Wed Oct 26 2022