REPAIRING ROTTEN WINDOW FRAMES

really important thing a lot of people don't treat it you potentially left something in there which will continue rotting i've just got in with the big sanders at the minute okay so all these pieces now set which is where i want to be [Music] i'll just explain the process on how to do the splicing on this job here's one that's nearly finished it's got to be sanded up made smooth so what i normally do i will come to a job take profiles of what i need machine up another day i'll cut out as much as i can of the rut that will get treated with a five-star wood preservative they're all pretty much the same it doesn't matter what brand as long as it reads the same but that's a really important thing a lot of people don't treat it you've potentially left something in there which will continue rotting that gives the preservatives chance to dry because the resin repair that we're using won't stick to that when it's wet then i'll come back with everything machined all these moldings have been machined by me they're only small quantities so i machine them on a table saw by hand just it's not worth having cut his ground just for like three or four lengths it takes me like three or four hours i could spend that driving to the joint shop and back now it's done and then that means when i come back i know what i'm dealing with and i will mark out what i'm going to cut and what i'm going to keep anything that might appear flaky and nasty underneath so this piece will probably stay that gets treated this is a two-part system gets mixed up equal measurements and it gets painted on the rotten timber it soaks in and once it's gone off it's harder than it was when it was originally put in and because it seals it water can't penetrate that again so it won't rot again it also gives something for the two-part resin system to key to and again it means it never cracks and moves so you don't get water back in which is what i started this problem in the first place and this should be as good as new when i finished it i'll just explain that on these pieces down here i fully understand that there are gaps where i've spliced in that's done intentionally because if you have too tight a gap it doesn't allow for flex in the resin so it's actually doing a worse job and you think you're doing a good job and when all this is all sanded up it'll look like it's never been done and it's painted right so here's a repair that i've done this was quite a nice one actually because it it wasn't as bad as some of the others this didn't require splicing but it's kept the profile around there beautifully i've done it right into the corners so that you don't get the water coming back in so all in these corners which are same on sash boxes they rot terrible you need to get in there with the resin you need to get in there with the two parts liquid and you can see this dark patch here it's not water that's the two-part liquid and it stops that timber from being porous again i've gone into the corners these are this is a fixed casement this is so i've gone right into the corner all the way in there which is where the water sits all of these what i call have been buttered on any contact point so when you push it in the resin squeezes out trail it off and again you've got no worries about water getting in places where it shouldn't and that's a proper job it's all been treated so it shouldn't come back there's a drip mold machined you can't see it but it's machined underneath there so when the water flow comes down and round it can't get underneath it just drips down there where it should and doesn't come back right so this is the resin that we use two-part system you can get them in two tubes for where i buy it on the internet which is mypaintbrush.com it's cheap enough just to find one tube you look inside there you can see the two different colors once the activator ones are resin and that's what we use to stick all this stuff back together [Music] keep that bit put it to one side i'll lay everything out in order on the scaffold and i'll slowly go through and cut out this new pieces to go in i'll get resin in this will all get treated with the two part liquid and then when i put the new piece in and all have the resin butted up so when it gets pushed in all these pieces here get filled and i'll dig this filler out as much as i can below the surface so i can get some resin on top of it to clear it these winds are that bad that i can't dig 100 out this is original glass in a lot of places it can be replaced but a very huge expense there's just no need [Music] right so this is old two-part filler there's nothing really wrong with old two-part feather as long as they've dug back to decent timber however you can see that behind this the water's got in because it doesn't seal properly in places it will seal properly between one piece of timber but not between two and that's where the timber care resin really does do well but i think actually now i've already got some of this section machined up and the timber care although it's brilliant it's very expensive so i'm probably just going to cut that back from there carefully just get rid of this piece here in the long run it's quicker it's a better job probably wondering why i'm only taking the fronts off and i'm leaving stuff like this i don't want to disturb inside the house it will get treated with the liquid so it will be hard again and it's just a cat of worms that doesn't need to be opened if it can be sorted with the resin liquid no point taking it out i'd like to try famous last words not to break this glass so that's what we're aiming to do [Music] you can see in there it's quite right to take that out you know that's rotting in there you need to see what's behind things so you can treat them properly otherwise you waste some time and in some places like where we've got deep holes like this i'll put pieces of timber similar to what i've done down here that was just a big hole just to bulk it out really i'm sure there's a lot of you people thinking this looks like the biggest pile of rubbish you've ever seen all we're trying to do is bulk out the resin repair it really is a job really is good for a long time to come and that's all we're trying to do just preserve what's there i can treat all this with a two-part liquid i'll paint it all on and while that's going up i can machine up the other parts i need to start putting stuff back in so these are just cheap disposable brushes from amazon there's nothing you can clean these with to reuse them not effectively anyway all you do look on the side of the bottle see where you're at you normally find that even if i would have probably gone down to that mark last time it's quite thick so it sticks to the side of the bottle and when you leave it in your van it settles back down again so i'll look there and i know that i want to get down to that mark there and put that right down there let's round to that back there tiny bit more because there'll be some in the bottle so that's one and that's two and you can see when you start mixing it changes color and you know it's all mixed right i know you can't smell this it smells awful it smells a bit like rotten eggs but it's so good so anyway we've got rats paint this arm so this is really mainly for anything that's really soft just saves you chopping more out than you need to you'll see right underneath here you can see it's like an old tree that's right away i'll just get the brush loaded as much as i can and you can really get surprisingly well in there in fact there was a few bits i actually chopped off the other day and i was quite surprised i did actually pretty much get full coverage on that i've got anything left over the next part that i'm going to repair or make good i just use the last bits up if it's an old window i'll put it around these bits even if it doesn't need a repair it just stops it getting rotten in the future i'm just going to use up what's left here just to do this which will be the next phase i'll move up to the next level on the scaffold here's a piece i've been machined up earlier very similar i'll just cut that down to the thickness that i want and need machine bits as they were done originally so that rail will go down like that that will go across there same as before you'll notice that all of my miters go that way this stuff should never ever crack but if it does the water runs out away from the window if you do it the other way the water can get in that way it also works a bit like a dovetail so when you push it in i haven't got to use any mechanical fixings to hold it i'm going to screw it it will just hold itself in naturally until it goes off that's why i like to do things this should never ever crack but if it ever did at least it's going that way it will last a little bit longer get these cut to rough lengths just to save a bit of time no point using the tape measure just for these odd few bits until they get the size it's just nice to size the pieces of timber up against what we're doing because there's a whole lot more that's got to be done to this because obviously that is too thick to replace what's on there and likewise there and there unlike for this bottom rail here this bottom rail here when i machine it down to thickness that mold will come off but obviously when i machine for this piece that mold needs to stay on so we can reinstate [Music] all it so that gives me the depth where we're at this is the piece that i've got for there that'll just get marked up it's quite methodical everything is done to waste the least amount of time possible so while i'm machining that two-part system is going up while i'm here i'll mark up everything that i want to machine take it to the table saw which is on the scaffold and i can just machine everything one hit so i'm not going backwards and forwards to different tools loads of times because times money this is my cordless table saw really handy when you're doing the sort of work because you haven't got to go all the way down or set power up really good bit of kit so what i've done this is what i've marked up there i'll set the fence literally by eye just because i've explained before we're not going for millimeter precision on this because you don't need to with the resin the resin needs some bulk to do the job start it up push stick [Music] [Applause] there we go that's the piece the upright i've done that by eye that's bang on the line that piece is for there this piece is for here all these little saw marks you can see i've got a cordless planer i'll bring it up here later it will get a tickle before it gets put in just to make it presentable we can start getting stuff back in shortly and i will machine separate bits just to bulk out this in here so we don't use too much of the resin and that's how we do it for that this is actually a piece of machine for around the other side but we've got enough just take these two little pieces off it all i normally do is just cut these roughly to length scribe in the bottoms as i see fit really so that wants to be approximately 90 mil long i'll mark which way i want it and that will get cut again square or mark the other [Music] this is too big a piece to just offer up like i did the others you know the others just small bits of kindling really i don't want to be wielding about a big piece of timber like this the next thing we've got to do is adjust the depth on it so that they're probably coming off somewhere about there and i will do this while it is in this this bigger state because it means i can feed it through the table saw keep my hands well out the way it's the correct and safe way to do it [Music] nice piece we want go up there and there like that and the resin will make good the gaps that we've got again you don't want it too tight this is purely a bulking item it's just it'll give us a bit of profile to copy the resin round need a few tweaks here and there to get it straight and that's it [Music] that piece there just needs a little bit more work to get that to fit so i'm not really that bothered about what part of the process so just scrub that in and that will go straight in i know some of these pieces are a little bit rough and ready but by the time the resin has gone over the top doesn't really matter [Music] [Applause] the profile is pretty good here just needs a little bit shaving off the nose of this one sometimes these old timbers you know how much they've had shaved off um sometimes they were made by hand so that you don't get the consistencies you get on modern joinery sometimes quite a nice thing this is a piece i'm using to fill this out and yeah again i'm just marking out key points there's a bit of a bump here you can see it sort of tapers in a little bit i'm not interested in digging any more out i'll just freehand with the jigsaw i've got a key point on there which is where that rest of that is so there i want that to stay in that'll get cut across there that corner will stay in and i'll try and match the profile in as much as i can and it's a little bit of trial and error and i'll take out that piece there and that along there [Music] and this is just packing is no finesse to this whatsoever [Music] it is literally trial and error [Music] there we go i've got everything i need all the resins here everything's been treated i've got a few of these so i've got a few other windows to do fredo frog what's not to like these scrapers made by the repair care company and it's good because the stuff doesn't stick to it quite flexible which is what you need when you're trying to finish this stuff probably the four hour quite a few reasons first is the one hour it's just really for small areas i don't really like the one hour that much it's not as pliable and obviously you haven't got the working time 16 hour just too too long it never seems to go off but the four is perfect because you can mix it up so you just take the nozzle off i've got a cage gun now i know i'm gonna be doing loads and because you've got four hours this will be good for at least three to work with on the pallet so i'll mix up pretty much a whole tube on this and you do only get about two-thirds of a tube because they obviously have bits inside the tube which helps it split the dose so i'll just put that on there like that this is all clean and then just mix it [Music] then you just keep mixing it until all the color has gone through as you can see that isn't mixed properly that has i'll just grab that up because if you don't mix it properly it won't go off [Music] so that's next all i'm going to do is get some in the key areas i want underneath there in there and in there and then this piece will get buttered and pushed in and then we'll fill all the gaps as you can see tube doesn't go far at all although i'm trying to fill every void it's not the end of the world if it doesn't but it is the end of the world if you haven't covered and made a seal everywhere because the smaller the hole the worse it will be if you get a capillary reaction and just draw the water in twice as fast as what caused this mess in the first place and we don't want that [Music] just by seeing that everything's squidging out i can tell that it's done what i needed to do to fill the voids a bit of a void in there don't really like them on the bottom of things because water can sit in there that ever got in so we just keep squidging that in that's the first layer of that i'm just going to make sure that the piece that i'm putting on will clear that because we're a little bit proud in places which is no dramas i'm just playing a little bit off the back so it fits but probably wants a small rebate along the bottom of that which i was just playing in now and i'll mix the next lot up and we can get that glued in [Music] [Music] [Music] so i'll just leave that on there like that because we've got a res in that so that rail has been put in pretty much as it would have sat you see the level here where it actually should come to all the way around here so we're going to go about building that back in [Music] after that [Music] all i normally try and do is get the big areas filled and then i've got the wide scraper which i can match the profiles on so i'll come back to this in a few minutes get the other one in [Music] [Music] so you can sort of see what i mean while i'm working this so like i can bring those faces in around there around there but it won't let you really get this edge right company do sell perspex strips that you can use to put across there it does work but you end up with little hollows normally so i normally like to build a line across the front like that and then try and get a crisp line on it as best i can i can fail too within a couple of hours this becomes almost like a stiff gel you can sort of work a lot better so it means you can actually scrape round and get the profile back without losing this front edge so that's what we'll be aiming to do later on it's very important wherever possible if you can not to overfill too much because it is so difficult to sand especially right in the corners you're just not going to get in there with anything perhaps maybe a dremel but life's too short to go around saying the things that you could have troweled up properly in the first place you might as well just do it properly spend that little bit of extra time which is good with the four hours it gives you time to work with it rather than spending hours trying to sort it out the next day and wish that you've done it the day before this is probably one of the worst windows i've done for rot this repair will last a very long time and at least the client knows that maybe 20 years time i've seen new windows that go in don't last 20 years so the only place i do these things crowd is where you've got these mouldings you can get the channels in surface parts are quite easy to blend in with a razor sharp chisel but the grooves they're a nightmare to try and introduce afterwards so try and get those in now [Music] as this one's quite a thin well-cut piece it's enough to make it stick it's only really end grain you need to leave big voids to give it something to stick to so i like to make sure that it's got a good coating all the way across same as you do for porcelain tiles and things really just because you know that it'll stick [Music] see that's squidging out exactly what we want same as before i get the voids filled very important get the miter filled i'll just put it in to see how it sits while i mix some more up you'll soon see where it's touching where it's not okay so all these pieces now set which is where i want to be really so then i can start going in fill in all these areas i've got time to make it look like and get it all sealed up properly it doesn't particularly matter too much some of these areas are a little bit proud i can come in with a sander and sand the wood down there's no dramas some of these edges here i've got a belt sander that luckily enough fits this profile so i'll get right in there with that and it will come up fantastic it's more important that i get the area set first and then i can deal with the individual areas one stage at a time but it's really important for all these areas along here where the water would normally sit to get sealed up properly to have a nice bit of a ramp there so nothing like this happens again on this window really even though it does not completely cracked this timber care stuff really does hold things up really well [Music] what the wider scraper does it enables me to follow that profile of what the original window was and hopefully should cut down on sanding time which is what we're aiming for really this i'm just going over now you can actually see that it's cracked in in the grain and so i'm literally just scraping across it filling in those cracks and again we're just trying to stop water ingress that's all we're trying to do see that one there is probably a perfect example of the of trailing different lines you've got a line to work to there enables me to go around that way and come down that way but if you've got nothing there or that one you know you're just gonna have to come back to it it just doesn't just doesn't work in the same way so we're probably going to have to come back to this one either later on this afternoon if it's gone off or tomorrow when we do some finishing work it's a bit of a shame because because it takes four hours to go off it's nice to try and get it all in one hit really so i'm just going in filling all these bits in here and a lot of this may look a bit crude i'm just trying to form a shape and sand it all up tomorrow i'm not even that bothered if i have to come back to this so i will under fill it if i have to just moves about too much if it's too deep [Music] [Music] i know when it's finished that this won't line up with that one i know that it probably hasn't for the past hundred years and that's what we're trying to do we're not trying to put it back perfect trying to put it back so it didn't look like it's been touched you do it too perfect just doesn't look right this building [Music] that's pretty good it's lined in pretty well when that sanded come up pretty smart it's never going to look like this one until it's finished this one was slightly easier because i've replaced the cell which gives you straight edges to work off so this morning i started sanding this right here i've just got in with the big sanders at the minute just to take the main bits of it off and i'll get in with a small detail sander in the corners all these areas here you can see it's already coming up pretty smooth it is despite its look quite flawless that's a piece of glue that yesterday that's pretty strong i don't really want to break it but no cracks on that from that and that is a tiny bit of resin so when you think a piece up there with that much contact out that is as good as now with the bigger sanding on this little lot here try and get some of these edges flattened back i do know that there will be little divots in places but the same company that do the resin do like a finishing filler that goes on top of this just goes off in about an hour and it's a lot easier to sand so i always try not to overfill because it is awful to sand [Music] [Music] so that's most of the big stuff done and to get the corners need the smaller sander some of the smaller areas have to get in with a multi-tool and a chisel you never get all of it out it'll have to be smoothed off with a finishing feather afterwards but it does its job you know that is so strong now really has done a good job on this and just a few areas up top stand up that i've done yesterday and we're good ready for decoration then i'll have a coat paint so we can see any more discrepancies that's fulfilled again so that's most of the sanding done i'm just going to go in with the multi-tool straighten these molds that i've introduced back in try and sharpen up a few of these little detail points in here in the corners which you can only really get in with the multi-tool and you can't really see it from here you can see from up top i've sort of scooped in all this back in to shame really it looks quite good from up there and no one's ever going to see it but it will do its job so that's good [Music] this is the bottom half of this pretty much resined in sanded back you see we've got the detail back on this molding here all this is nice and crisp in the corners smooth you can't actually feel the joint on that same on every bay of this it will need a small coat i'm going to use this stuff which is made by the same people repair care just a fine surface filler just get rid of a few of these last little imperfections in the corners around here and here the divots just so it's ready for painting it hasn't all looked super crisp and straight because the rest of the old windows aren't super crisp and straight and it wouldn't look right and when it's painted you shouldn't know where the repairs are really [Music] you

Channel: Build With A&E

Views: 58,971

Keywords: REPAIRING ROTTEN WINDOW FRAMES, can a rotten window frame be repaired, window sill replacement, how to repair a rotten window frame, rotten wood, casement window, cuprinol 5 star complete wood treatment, repair care wood hardener, repair care two-part epoxy resin, caulking gun, how to apply epoxy resin to wood, wood rot repair, sanding epoxy resin, repair care super finish, rotten wood treatment, two-part epoxy, fix rotted wood, window repair home

Id: xvyQQ0MPt9Y

Length: 30min 41sec (1841 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 05 2021