Reloading 6.5 Creedmoor!

[Music] alright guys we're gonna do a reloading video today on the 65 Creedmoor we're just going to be making some basic cider rounds nothing too wild something to get the scope zeroed so I can start with this load development I've already loaded up the low development rounds so these are going to be the blasting rounds cider rounds what we're still going to do as much precision as we can as you can see here I've got all the dies torn apart what I did is I took them out into the garage and I blasted them all clean with brake clean I put them in a glass measuring cup that the wife said that I could keep so cleaned all that stuff off it's nice and shiny now I've made sure to get into all the threads get all the basically the grease that the manufacturer puts on there so that they don't rust in the box so now they're good to go before we use any of the sizing guys we're gonna blast them with a little bit of Lube make sure they're good to go so let's get these all put together and then we'll do a little bit of brass prep we'll throw some powder charges prime the brass and complete the rounds then they'll be ready for shooting alright so this is what we're dealing with here we've got Hornady brass the stuffs been once fired I used this in my first you into precision videos and I had about 18 pieces hanging around in one of the boxes just in case something like this happened if I ever needed some 65 cream or brass so what we're gonna do we're gonna clean out the primer pockets and then we're going to brush out the case next chamfer and deburr the neck we're going to full-length size them so we're gonna have to lube them all up full length size them then we're going to get all that off and a quick tumble in my tumbler then go ahead and throw them in the press put a primer in give it a powder charge seeped some 140 grain Hornady eld match bullets and then they should be ready for siding in and just blast it away and getting the barrel a little bit fouled up that's the whole idea behind these is to get the barrel fouled up enough and broken in a little bit just so that the different sizes and groups I can actually trust not just think was that really a worse charge or was that just the barrel changing and getting fouled up because it's a brand new gun so we're going to use these as Fowler's and blasting rounds alright first step let's clean out these primer pockets if you don't know what I'm talking about it's down inside the primer pocket see all that black junk how there's a little bit of shiny in there we definitely want these to be more shiny so this is my primer cup this is my primer pocket cleaning tool it's got a small and a large so real simple you just scrape it around go back and forth and then I usually tap it on the counter top ooh look at that yeah much more shiny now that's ready to be reloaded because I'm not super worried about the precision of these so something to keep in mind as you do any process on brass I'll either put them case neck up or case head up that way I can tell which ones I have done the process on which ones I haven't done the process on you can also get do trades that's a simple way to do it as well so again a couple twists now if you're doing like real match stuff then you want to like be as consistent as possible but I'm not super worried right now that one's good and clean flip it over you can start going pretty quick when you do this it doesn't take long at all now because this is once fired bolt-action rifle brass it's really not that dirty up around the case necks um it's a little bit [ __ ] up there not a big deal so I'm not going to clean these I'm just going to Lube them up and then when I tumble when I tumble them to get the lube off that will clean them just a little bit up around the neck so I'm not gonna worry about cleaning these in a super crazy process right now once fired bolt-action rifle brass usually doesn't get that dirty and the way I shot it anyway I was shooting it taking it out and putting them back in the ammo box anyway so it stayed relatively clean so I've got this Universal loading tray when I put them down in there that's not quite enough of the case sticking out I want to really get a lot of Lube on these so luckily on the backside there are these cups right there that's a perfect amount of case staying up so let's load these back into the tray and then we'll blast them with some Hornady one shot case Lube I really like that stuff it works well for my purposes I have never had a stuck case yet I usually go down I usually try and get a spray for each row left to right and then I will flip the tray 180 degrees so I'm spraying the backsides of them and then I go one spray for each row it's the grease outside so notice I keep it on a fairly high angle that's to try and get just a little bit of case loose down into the next hole spin these around shake this stuff up there we go let that sit for one minute and it's ready to go like I mentioned at the beginning of the video we're going to spray just a little bit of Lube up into the full length sizing guy in an effort to not get a stuck case but we're not gonna like fill this thing up by any means I mean we're just gonna kind of Ritz it we're just enough there we go now I'm going to be going with what Lee suggests for setting up their full length dye because I don't have a piece of fired brass to figure out what the headspace is on this rifle so we're just gonna load it to factory spec and it should work just fine so you lift up the RAM you screw the dye in until it makes contact with your shell holder right there then Lee says you lift the rim and you go a quarter to a third turn more and then you finger tighten the lock ring so right here I'm only twisting this little rock lock ring it's got a rubber o-ring on there and that holds it in place so now when I push the RAM up the shell holder makes full contact with the dye and it's going to give this piece of brass a full length resize so now that our cases are lubed go ahead and throw that in there and then you're going to feel maybe a little bit of rubbing about right there [Music] this process got a little bit mixed up as far as my process goes normally this pops out your primer but I used a universal decapping dye this is what that is that's Adi capper so the primers were already out of this normally as I push them up in there the primers are popping out and that's most likely how yours would be throw another one in and you go up good firm press pull it out nice and slow there we go try not to run this up through too many times every time it's going up in there it's squeezing the neck closed and opening it back up to a uniform consistency try not to do that too much because it actually work hardens your brass and your case mounts will split faster when you do that so when you shoot it there's more of a possibility of your case cracking and then you can't use it anymore at that point one of the functions that this full-length sizing guide performs is it takes a case neck that's been blown out that you've shot a bullet out of see how the bullet does not fit and just loosely slides in and out no problem this is a piece of brass that we've resized and now that piece of brass has a firm fit it's gonna hang on to this bullet so this is ready to be loaded this one isn't gonna do us any good another thing you can do to check case mouths let's see if the case mouth is open or closed right here we got a measurement of 292 or so any one and a half so let's throw this through the resizer [Music] and then take another measurement in the same spot now we're down to 283 282 and a half 283 ish somewhere in that ballpark now at this point if you've shot them multiple times it's a good idea to check your overall length so because I've actually never measured these because they were factory ammunition let's check the overall length 1.9 to 0 so that's the max case length normally you'd trim this down 10 thousands but I haven't got my trimmer just yet so in bad practice we're gonna run it at the max case length that's not really gonna be a problem if it's like 1 9 to 5 or 1 930 that'd be a problem it's a 1 9 18 so we're gonna run these as they are we will trim them next time if yours are right up there basically if they're above the 5 thousandths of room I usually trim them or I trim them all to make them the same length but I am going to put a nice clean chamfer and deburr on there usually if I trim them it creates a flat jagged edge around the mouth and then I just take my chant for deburr tool and because these don't have a big nasty edge to them just nice and gentle just and then rotate it and it doesn't take much and now it's got a nice clean mouth of the case on there but you see how there's little shavings of brass hanging around right there that's because of the lube it kind of stuck there so I do this before I tumble that way it tumbles all the little brass pieces out and cleans up the brass a little bit better because I don't want to be seeding a bullet with like brass shavings next to the bullet as it gets smashed down through there it will cause inconsistencies and possible problems later on so let's flip the cases over after I do each one then they're ready for the dry media tumbler [Applause] this is a dry media tumbler and the dry media that I use is crushed walnuts and it's got a little bit of treatment in there as well it's kind of dyed red this is a Lyman red walnut material they also offer corn cob the walnuts supposed to be a little more aggressive of a cleaner a little more like jagged edge a little bit bigger pieces so let's go ahead dump in our 65 Creedmoor let's drop the top on this thing and fire it up and these things are good and annoying so I keep mine in opposite room we'll get these out in about 20 or 30 minutes there are tools to help separate the tumbling media from your brass but if you just tap it on the side and shake it out and we'll get all the tumbling media out you also want to make sure that the flash hole is clear of any debris as well all right there we can see that it goes all the way through so keep those two things in mind clean it all the way out and just make sure you get all your media out of it now I made a few careful considerations when choosing the powder and primer choice what I'm doing here is I'm going to load them with hybrid 100v the reason I'm using this powder it's because where I'm at at this time frame this stuff's easy to find h-43 50 is still very hard to find in my area so I'm going with hybrid for the blasting rounds the primers I'm using are the large rifle magnum primers these are CCI number 256 five Creedmoor does not need Magnum primers under every load however with this powder I've found better performance with Magnum primers so that's what we're gonna use plus we're gonna prime these cases with also a 6-5 Creedmoor you need to know if you have a large or a small primer that's a key factor in the performance that you will get so so before you start reloading your 65 Creedmoor you need to know which brass you have and if it has small or large rifle primers this is one of the few cases that has both i'm depending on the brand and even some of the same brands have small and large so these are large Hornady rifle primers as far as setting up the seeding die it's pretty simple as well lift the bram this is what he this is what leigh recommends lowering the die down I'm actually gonna have to adjust the locking on this [Music] I'll ring the dye until it touches the shell holder there we go good contact now lift the shell holder and go in 1/2 to quarter turn and then tighten up your la creme so now when you push the press up good solid contact with your shell folder [Music] there are multiple tools for priming brass the way that I met that I choose to use is I just put my primers in the priming arm on the press so I picked them up drop them in the large rifle cup that I've put in there and then as you squeeze down this arm comes up through your shell holder so your brass would be pulled down over that primer that's how that works so we'll slide a piece in and then just with a hand tight give it a good snug push and there we go our primers are seated a few considerations when using and dealing with primers is they're very sensitive to water so you don't want to get any amount of moisture around them even if it's like a very humid environment that you're storing them in that may start causing some issues for you as well so you gotta be aware of that also the oils in your hands could possibly ruin your primer so when I grab them I try not to grab them on the flat sides like where my finger would be going down into the primer where the colored area is where the anvil is and where the actual priming agent is so I try to grab them by the sides and then press them into the brass every time I pull out a piece of brass I always flip it and run my finger over it to make sure that it sits flush or down below the head of the case if any of them stick out that's gonna be a real problem and that thing could go bang when I don't want it to I always check my cases for media in the primer pocket and a good way to do get rid of it in there is just use a decapping pins cuz that's exactly what they're designed to do anyway it's to knock things out of primer pockets this one's strangely dirty so I'm gonna set this aside and I'll deal with that in a minute this one's clean so let's keep on priming and those are the few considerations to think about when using primers just be careful with them obviously this is what goes bang and sets everything off so as you're priming try and be gentle and just kind of use some common sense basically if you get one stuck in sideways you can use your decapping pin and very carefully push it out basically if you're worried about it going off like if you've accidentally seeded one backwards you can add water to the primer and that should kill it it won't work at that point so put some water on it and it's done so at that point you could safely push it out with a decapping pin let me double check that primer pocket that one's good go and again just nice snug fit if the primers slide in really easy that means that the brass has been fired a few too many times and the primer pocket is basically there's been too much pressure on it and it's slowly it slowly blown out a bit and it's not gonna securely hold your primer anymore which will cause issues so once your primer pockets aren't very snug you've got problems but you have to physically do this first hand to start to understand what a tight primer pocket feels like and what a loose primer pocket feels like with six five Creedmoor it's a decent amount of pressure it's nothing wild I mean I'm just doing it with my hand and I give it a good firm press at the end just to basically push that primer down in there and it's good to go you don't need to crush it you no need to go wild with the pressure you don't need to like hammer on the end of the lever nothing like that so that's priming the next step is powder charge [Music] something I've found very interesting with all the 6-5 Creedmoor reloading data for hybrid 100v i have a little bit older reloading data for it i have the Hornady ninth edition reloading manual and in the tenth edition reloading manual the powder charges for hybrid 100v changed significantly also if you get on Hodgdon reloading data center online and burgers data is different as well for the 140s so in the older data they run this stuff really hot and they show these crazy high velocities with it but no one else suggests velocities no one else suggests powder charges that hot with hybrid 100b so be careful with that definitely check multiple sources of data with the hybrid 100v as far as what should be safe so from my understanding right now 38 grains should be a medium charge it should be well within the limits of the operating pressures should give me decent velocity I'm not trying to go with anything crazy in fact crazy velocities are actually bad for braking in a barrel because it increases copper fouling sooner so we're just gonna start off with some semi mellow medium charges and these should just be fun shooting around so that's what we're going for here nothing crazy so let's try it out and see what this thing's throwing right now I always tap it twice up and then I tap it twice down to make sure the powder got out of there well didn't zero out my pan so let's try this again zero it zero it I know what my pan weighs that's 41 grains I do not want 41 grains I want 38 let's do about three rotations of that this is how I set my powder charges I get them close with this and then I trickle them up with my powder trickler on a cheap digital scale and I actually need to I need to upgrade my digital scale mine's kind of a flaking in and out and every now and then so I'm actually gonna go up a half rotation more on the powder volume there so let's throw one more and see where that puts us I usually like to throw about 3/10 slope maybe a half gram low that way I'm not trickling forever so that's 37.8 perfect I want 38 grains and that's just this hybrid 100b is fairly dense so it doesn't take a whole lot of trickling to increase the weight there so that's 38 I need my funnel and I just use a plain Jane plastic funnel this came with my leek hit so it's actually pretty good at not building up static I just pour it slowly and let it all flow down in there and then it gets there give it a couple taps helps it settle down in there and then I move my funnel to the next case in line so dump your powder tap it in there to settle it and immediately move the funnel that way you don't double charge I can't double charge this and put a bullet in there it would just start overflowing but if I double charge it it becomes a mess and it's pain in my butt so okay let's see where this throws it 38 right on the nose and because I don't really care we're just gonna throw them I'm gonna verify each one's charge wait I kind of settled the powder in the pan a little bit make it more even thirty seven eight that's close enough these are just Fowler's nothing too wild here move along quickly thirty-seven seven hold bump that up a few grains thirty-seven nine there we go not to be not to be confused with being in a rush but I just don't really care to weigh them out to the perfect to the grain exact reading it this time so 38 I'm still keeping them within like two tenths of the charge I want and how I have this set up to throw with light so if I don't measure one of them it's gonna be a lighter charge 38 right on the nose well that's how I charge my cases so I'm gonna go through the rest of these and we'll talk to you guys in a second about bullet seeding here's a reloading tip for you check your cases make sure they have powder in them it will save you a major headache looks like we're good here so let's move on to seeding some bullets okay before I ever see the bullet I always look down on the case make sure there's powder in there and place it in the shell holder we can actually remove the priming arm right here it gets it out of the way and then you don't got to worry about it take a bullet make sure it's the correct bullet 65 140 lb I really have I don't have anything else that's even similar to these so I'm just gonna go ahead and drop it in there the boat tails make it easy to get your bullet in the ballpark and there's multiple ways to do this we're gonna back our seating day way out here to where it's almost coming out and then we're just gonna slowly push it up in there oh it just started pushing it actually it has it in it did not make any contact so there it's just making contact with the bullet so it hasn't been pushed in any at this point we can bring it in basically three full rotations and that will push down on the bullet a little bit let's grab our calipers yep they're zeroed now let's check the overall length overall length I'm going for is 2.8 just to keep it simple that's three point zero three zero so we got a ways to go I can do basically two full rotations here and I'll put us down close for what we're looking for all right so let's go in another half run it up in here nice and any time you run it back up in don't slam it into the die let it gently come to where you feel it come in contact and then slowly apply pressure and then give a firm press once it's come to a stop otherwise your seeding die can create a little ring around the bullet so we're at two point eight eight eight so we need to take out 88 thousandths you definitely not want to put it in too far that's it creates a real problem then you have to pull your bullets so we're going under a quarter turn here we're two point eight one Oh a little bump 2.80 one so we're gonna call that good we will try out the next bullet so let's grab the next brass make sure there's powder in there grab the next bullet and seat the bullet nice and easy you can stop halfway through the seeding process and rotated a quarter turn and then finish seeding the bullet and the idea behind this is that if you're seeding die doesn't seed it perfectly centered as you rotate it it'll help kind of even it out on its way down so let's take this measure it make sure that our seating de is consistently measuring these out so that's 2.80 one and a half exactly the same now you may see three to five thousands variation from bullet to bullet and it depends if your bullet has a ballistic tip this one does the little plastic tip so these are supposed to be more consistent than a traditional exposed lead tip like a see Eric game King it doesn't make that big of a difference like three or five thousandths if you're measuring exactly from the tip if you're using a bullet comparator which measures down here on the shoulder of the bullet that's where you want like exact same measurements two point eight oh three see this is mm long but I'm not gonna worry about it it's most likely gonna be really similar to the other ones so and also with this being a blasting round I know I beat that horse to death but I don't really care in this instance I want to make good ammo but I don't need I'm not going for benchrest same whole group stuff you know I'm kind of cleaning up the neck here there's a little bit of ground drilling so that's my bullet seeding process another way you can set up your seeding die so let's back this out oh no I just ruined all my seeding steps so if we back this way out to where you can see the threads up top you can take a completed round if you have a factory round or a completed round of the length that you're looking for take that and put it in here slowly lift your RAM up to where and try to make sure when it stops that it's the press arm coming to the top and it's not coming in contact with the dice so push it all the way down there we go and then you can twist in your seeding stem and wait till you feel it come in contact with the bullet so right there I feel like come in contact so usually what I do is I will back it out and just go a little bit more usually it's about mm long when I set it this way so this one's got powder let's grab a new bullet so let's eat this one now that we just reset it using a premade bullet all the way to the bottom give it a bump let's grab our calipers 2.80 three so that's so close I mean I'm just gonna run it in just a touch the last bullet we made was two-point eight oh three so I'm not sure if it's coming down to the tip of the bullet but it's so close I mean that's a great way to set up your seating guy if you happen to still have a bullet from the last time you load it usually I screwed all my bullets so I have to set it up manually every time which can be a little bit annoying so this is my seeding process let's skip ahead to the final step of reloading 6-5 Creedmoor our final step in reloading 65 Creemore for me is going to be labeling my components I just take a sharpie and write directly on the case so what I'm gonna write here is 38 100 V or you could write 38 B I mean whatever you want to do so I know that these are all going to be 38 grains of 100 V because these are Hornady head stamps all my other brass that I am loading up for my low development that I'm doing for real precision work is going to be my Atlas development group brass so if you're looking for a new source of 6-5 Creedmoor brass take a look at atlas development they're making some good stuff i compared it to the Hornady brass here and it's a bit more consistent in weight which tells me that the wall thickness is probably a bit better just a little bit higher quality there also they use a double striking also they double strike the heads of the case swaging out the primer pockets so it actually worked hardens the brass where you want it to be work hardened as down by the primer pocket and they were saying they've tested those up to beyond ten firings and that they they still met the specs that they needed to so really impressive stuff I can't wait to load up a bunch of that and continue to abuse it and see how it takes it and of course what we're actually going to be shooting the 6-5 Creedmoor out of is my you went to precision UPR ten upper this is a really cool design it's a bolt-action ar-10 upper so you take your 308 battle rifle pop out two pins put in two pins and you've turned it into a 26 inch barreled bolt-action precision rifle let's take a quick look at that yeah that shilling barrel hanging out over there and there's my vortex Viper that's ready to go on top so hope you guys enjoyed the video hopefully it was helpful this is basically what you can expect when reloading 65 Creemore that's basically the absolute basics of how you want to do it so if you're just looking for blasting rounds maybe you're just looking for reloading in one night a hundred rounds for a PRS competition that's one way to do it I mean this cartridge isn't this cartridge is inherently accurate and it's a very well rounded cartridge I'm actually gonna do a video on that basically discussing why 6-5 Creedmoor has reached the popularity that it has on my view if you go on a 6-5 Creedmoor you're already on board with it you know what I'm talking about so that's basically gonna be it I would appreciate it if you guys subscribe I would appreciate it even more if you drop a comment I enjoy talking with everybody on here so I appreciate it thanks everybody involved I appreciate you guys watching the thank you for your time and we will talk to you later you

Channel: West Desert Shooter

Views: 125,617

Rating: 4.8668442 out of 5

Keywords: 65 creedmoor, reloading 65 creedmoor, reloading 6.5 creedmoor, loading 65 creedmoor, how to reload 65 creedmoor, how to, how to reload, loading 6.5 creedmoor, hornady 140 eld m

Id: EF_RgLu1T18

Length: 32min 36sec (1956 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 05 2018