QCTP Stud Upgrade

[Music] welcome back to the shop everybody today I'm going to start a small project to upgrade my lathe and that is to strengthen the mounting of my quick change tool posts as you can see here this is the tool post itself it's a X a size and the top of my compound you've got a ridiculous nut here so it takes a little bit to get it off here you can see the stud and then yeah you can see that this at the bottom so how this is held in place is just a recess boss with an offset hole that a roll pin goes through now prevents the stud from spinning and then the boss itself holds it from pulling through the top of the compound the issue with this is as you can see here there's kind of a discrepancy in size I'm assuming this was so that when I bought this this was designed to be a you know just put it in place no modifications needed quick change tool post so here it's ten millimeters and then here it next down so you can use an m8 thread and you can see here the nut that spins all the way up on it you know that's considerably bigger and dimension it's got a large hex head that's 19 millimeters across the flats and that's the problem in my opinion because as you can see a 19 millimeter wrench is not a small wrench and it's way bigger than what you would normally use to tighten down an m8 bolt so over the years I have broken several of these studs always snapping them here in the threaded area mainly because it's weak so what we're going to do to to remedy this and potentially maybe increase the rigidity of the lathe is to make a better stud so it's going to be 12 millimeters in diameter across the entire length and then it'll be threaded m12 and then I'll make a custom nut to go with it it also mount on top of the quick change tool post so to do that you know obviously had to make a materna metric thread and a metric nut and then I'm gonna have to go in will have to board the counterbore out to size so it's bigger well it's a board that through a hole out the sides and then we'll have to drill a new hole at a different location for the roll pin nothing complex nothing overly difficult and nothing that requires a high amount of accuracy it's just kind of a general small nice little project so let me reposition the camera and we'll get started so I start off by making the nut because I have a tap to do that and then I will just thread the stud fit it this is just some cold rolled 4140 face off drill and then tap [Music] [Music] [Music] now let then that blank is faced I've gone ahead and slow the lathe down and I'm gonna drill it and tap it while I'm pretty sure I've never used this tap before it's not exactly a great one it's an old high speed steel Sears and craftsman one that I got quite a while ago and I don't normally tap my trick this big so I'm going to definitely need to use the crescent wrench trick to get this to go through it's going very well [Music] now restore the bottle it just got a lot easier [Applause] I've gone ahead and made this mandrel off-camera it's nothing more than a piece of scrap bar stock turned down to an inch in diameter and then faced drilled and threaded for m12 and then just has an m12 bolt that was locked tight it in place and then the head machined off and since I used this bit to do the facing and I have my dial indicator set up down here I know the exact distance this cutter tip is away from this face at any time what that will let me do is thread on the blank and meet previously and now I can face this to an exact length because I know the distance from the mandrel to the cutting tip it also gives me access to turn this down the size because the mandrel is smaller than the OD 'litham that will be and last benefit of this method is that because of the way the threads work it's self tightening the only way this is coming off is if the lock tight let's go which is unlikely because there's almost an inch of threaded nut threaded stud in here that's all locked tight in place so with that being said let's get started [Music] [Music] now that it's down the thickness I can turn it down to the proper diameter well at least the largest most diameter got it remove my stop here I take a quick measurement here final diameter this is supposed to be one point 102 inches you know almost at one point three five so I got quite a ways to go [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] okay I'd see if it's intolerance and it is so the next step is to turn a smaller diameter in the sense that when I go to mill the hex I don't have to remove as much material to do that we're going to need to switch out tools and set a different stop [Music] okay final cut will be eight thousands off the radius [Music] once I get up to the shoulder I wanted an extra mm to bring me to my final length and then I faced out the I don't know I guess the face next step is to just champer everything and then part this off you go to the milk [Music] okay I'm over here at the mill now I've got the blank on the mandrel set up in a five seat hex kolobok I've got my magnetic stop set up so that when I rotate the block everything should come back I've touched off so all I should need to do now is take a couple passes and get a baseline measurement and then go to town [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] I've got to take seven thousands off each face so the first thing I do it just so I don't lose my place let's put a mark on the face I'm starting with make sure I'm up against the stop [Music] you're cutting float and that's the last set so let me grab a wrench and see if this fits [Music] there we go let's come back and put a little chamfer on that well all I did was put the till but I put the tool bit at maybe two couple degrees to three maybe max and just came in and cleaned up a little bit of the marks that were left by the end mill [Music] [Music] almost [Music] that was too much that was kind of a that sort of chattering but it did get it it doesn't look that bad [Music] and that's it you second break this loose yeah there's one night all I have to do is deburr it a little bit I'll counter well champ for the inside of this and then it's done so the next step is to actually make the stud it's been a couple days since I made the nut and that's mainly due to the fact at the time of the year I'm got lots of family obligations but I'm in the shop now so I've gone ahead and changed my mind about using 4140 for the shaft the the stock that I haves just way bigger than it needs to be and is like making a crap ton of chips so I switched over to this is 1144 stress proof I've already turned it down to the major diameter of the the studs the next thing used to go ahead and remove a large amount of material off the rest of the shaft [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so I had to go ahead and do a little polishing I went out with some two hundred grit sandpaper and then some of the three hundred and sixty grit merlin that I have because when I finished that last cut I was about half thousands over diameter down here and right out at the very end so and this is going to get turned down and threaded so it's gonna be undersized a little bit anyway which i don't care about but this needed to be brought down the spec so the next step is going to be to set up my stop here touch off on the end and figure out where I need to put my thread relief so I've gone ahead and off-camera sharp eat up the threaded area and then did a light pass to validate that the pitch was correct and I'm probably going to talk a whole lot during this because to me this is probably the most difficult thing to do on a lathe because I'm turning a metric thread on an imperial lathe and I'm essentially doing it between centers so to do that method I'm going to use is what I've heard referred to as quick-draw the half that's gonna stay engaged at all times and then when I get to the thread relief I'm gonna quickly retract the cross slide and turn the laid-off and then to get back to my starting point I'll reverse the feed feed back feed the cross slide back in and then I'd reset the feed occurred we've had to reset the feed direction to go towards the headstock again so let me dial and cut of five thousands on the compound and we'll get started I will apply a little bit of cutting oil now so it goes on but it's a little too tight so what I'm gonna do is oh yeah what I'm gonna do is I'm not going to use the compound anymore and I'll just use the cross law to take the last thousands and use the cutter as a 100% as a form tool double-check everything because I'd hate to screw it up now going towards the headstock everything set yep good to go let's see how that did no rock nothin nice clean dredge I took the liberty of going over to the bandsaw to take off a big chunk of the material that was back in the jaws so I still have quite a bit to come off maybe 150,000 sore so but it's not like 3/4 or e7 yeah 7/8 of an inch so that's less work and then the only other thing I want to point out is because the diameter of the stud is actually smaller or I believe it to be smaller than the diameter of the little arcs cut into the front of the Chuck jaws I shouldn't actually get any marring in March because it's actually the Chuck jaws aren't biting with the corners they're just kind of squeezing with the middle so it's not a great hold force per se but it's more than enough for this task [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] that should have been the final pass take a quick measurement and verify that yep inspect it looks like it's is shooting for 180 thousands plus or minus five its tenth over two tenths no 1/10 over so good to go there switch out to a champ ring toll little a chamfer on this gonna be good to go [Music] next step is to go over to the mill the stove is now centered underneath the mill spindle within half a thousand source oh so that's plenty good enough for this type of work this was a slightly interesting setup because one I didn't want to damage the finish on the stud mn2 I didn't really have any common ways of holding holding it vertically like this I don't have any metric collet so no my Kaulitz were closed so I couldn't just drop it into 5c collet and stay on the block up so I didn't have doing this I put two V blocks on top parallels that are offset a little bit because the studs so big that it barely fits down through the parallel clears the vise jaw but it's throw in place now they're down good studs vertical so now I have to do is offset this and then drill the hole for the roll pin which is going to be a three millimeter hole and the offset is three hundred and fifty thousand so let me do that real quick just the dial here that's the wrong way there's one two three fifty there we go and you probably can't see but I have a dial indicator off the back reading off the table itself so is that that looks about right to me so this is a eight-inch spotting drill it should be more than enough to set up for the hole and get some that's really all there is to make this stud so I'm gonna take this over to the bench on D bird this hole I'll test it with a roll pin I'm sure there's some you know there's so much you can burn the other side and then it's on to be compound top which is all gonna be done over here at the mill [Applause] [Music] [Music] that should be good enough for now it's within a thousandth and that's considering there's a lot of wear on the surface so really quite a hard to gauge what squares the next thing is going to be to get this stuff out of the way for a second get these spindle lined up and then try and get the spindle in line with what is the current bore through the compound so everything's now set up I've taken one light test pass just to make sure I had no rubbing because this is kind of a tight fit with this boring bar down through this the boss here but looks like everything clear spine so now I can take some some cuts here I probably got get a quick measurement but I haven't completely cleared up the bore all the way down through but it looks like I got another sixty thousands or so to come out so it'll take a couple more passes [Music] [Music] hard to do this down in such a tiny hole hopefully this should be the last pass taking out three thousands come back up through here and all on another spring pass and that's within tolerance it's about one thousandth go over about eleven tenths over the diameter of the stud so now the next step is to go and remove this boring bar and put in this special one on the ground so probably won't show up on camera but this very tip maybe the last sixteenth of an inch or so is perpendicular to the axis of so when I go down through here and make a little tiny step over as it should flatten out this rough bottom hopefully this I'm gonna do by hand [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] still got a little spot back in that corner that's not cleaned up yet so 75% of the way through now they look back here in this corner which doesn't completely cleaned up yet I'll bring you guys back when I've got this all cleaned up and I'm coming down to size so I'm down to the last six that needs to come out I'll show you how I've been measuring this so this is just about deep enough that you can use a spring gauges that's what I've been doing is can't really pull again in a normal sense so I've just kind of been putting them down in wiggle it up just a little bit and letting them find their Center and pushing down tightening ever so slightly so I can pull them out and I've been getting very consistent readings within a couple tenths each time so I think that's good enough so let's make this last pass and see how it goes [Music] and that's it so cleaning this up take another measurement and that is where it needs to be so the next step is to pop this out and put in a special tool that I have for making champers so as you can see it's nothing special it's just a regular bit there we go you still have to get it in the machine properly I'm not clear yes so I'm going to just run this down and get this inner board just put a little chamfer on it and I'll bring it up and then I'll do this outside one as well so there's nothing sharp to cut myself on let's make sure we clear running into the ducktales would not be fun at this point a little clear [Music] that's it for that the only thing left to do well once I run this back in is to go ahead and drill the hole through the roll pin let me clean up a little bit and then we'll do that so here it is one more time the old one and the new one and then the old weird-looking nut and then a more standard looking flange not those drops right in I'm not gonna put the roll pin in for you guys that's that's gonna be an annoying task so I'll do that off camera just like that even and that's how it's gonna go so let me do this roll pin off-camera and I'll bring you back when I get it remounted on the lathe so the last thing I quickly did off-camera was I went ahead and I sawed off the last a little bit of the the stud that had the center drill hole in it and then I mounted up the forge all real quick and then I just went the town with a file and some sandpaper get it down nice and close like this so there's nothing sharp here if I have to say having gone ahead and tried this now a couple times it actually feels like you know tight it doesn't feel like you know if I just pull this a little bit harder that I'm just gonna snap it like it's not I mean I'm I've got this lock down as hard as I think I would normally ever want to pull on a wrench like this and it feels completely solid like nothing's gonna break it so I'm really happy with that over time we'll see if there actually is any extra rigidity or not that's to be seen maybe on the next project I'll see that thanks for sticking around hope you enjoyed it [Music] [Music]

Channel: dans-hobbies

Views: 128,138

Rating: 4.8313751 out of 5

Keywords: lathe, metal lathe, milling, milling machine, qctp, quick change tool post, 1144, 4140, metal turning

Id: ZyOJYp66oCk

Length: 43min 56sec (2636 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 08 2017