UPGRADING THE MINI LATHE

hey guys welcome to the shop this week we're going to be doing a bot a bearing swap or modification or upgrade I guess some people call it mount upgrade we'll find out I guess too many ways thing one I'm sure a lot of you guys have and probably have already attempted this modification or or about two so you don't have to have one of these ladies I don't think to enjoy what we're gonna do but we get into some laughing some custom made oil delivery lines which were turned out and great but we're really tough to get bent in position you'll see I think it's pretty good so let's get started alright so let's start this mini lathes modification at the good part at least as far as I'm concerned it's the good part and it's completely disassembled cleaned and ready to start going back together in and being fit the disassembly of this is really straightforward believed about anybody could do it the hardest part for me was removing this front bearing from the from the lathe spindle and I just used a cup of press whites and pressed it off you could cut it off and do anything but you want to be careful and not beat it off and damage to the spindle but anyway the idea here is to replace these standard plane roller bearings with some angular contacts so we can have some adjustment and the spindle to take out any slop or em plate because that's just near impossible with these types of bearings these plane rollers my goal here is to avoid chatter make this lathe maybe a little more rigid not necessarily more accurate because these are just standard sfk made in Germany three zero two six zero angular contact bearings they're probably better than what was in it but like said all I want is for this to be adjustable to where I can take out any slop so I've already pressed bearing races into the headstock they fit really well I've got some clips and stuff that I'll show you along the way of the disassembly and some of the that I ran into but I think this is the best place to start and that is going back together where things really matter so I'm going to show you my method to what I'm going to do to make this thing at least work the way that I hope that it will and you know bring you down here and show you what a plane to do so this is an extremely common modification that tons of people have done and you have looked into some of it I think one of the major issues is that these bearings the angular contacts are a little thicker than the originals and just because these bearings fit on the spindle and the races fit in the headstock does not mean that it was designed for these bearings so we have some space there issues on this back year alignment but that's pretty pretty easy to address the major issue that I ran into them that you know yours may be fine because the fit and finish on these ladies are not very good and I wouldn't expect them to be all the same but this back bury journal you can see the difference here it's a precision stone that is out of round by about two-tenths it fits this bearing way too tight and doesn't well allow me to get a good smooth adjustment on it's just too tight when you put a load on it it'll move quite a bit or not at all so I'm not getting the adjustment that I want so I need to bring this back end around and maybe reduce it in size just ever so slightly to where I get a better fit on that so my plan to do that is to make a lap this piece of 6061 will lap this back end around and maybe reduce it in size and hopefully that will give me a good adjustment then we'll have to build up our spacers and you get this thing where it fits the way that I want it to anyway hopefully this all works out so let's go to the lathe and start making us a lap all right so I want to start off with a square block first of course good true block there's my favorite pocket roll of all time it's just a brown and sharp number 10 hook rule it is in 30 seconds on the side and it's 64 some other hopefully focus but a good little roll the hook will move to either side handy for sure and it's small so easy too easy to get in the pocket and our block just standard size extrusion is two-and-a-half about two and then our height of the four milling is slightly over an inch and 3/4 so all we're going to do is clean up clean up these two sides [Music] [Music] that is 670 or p.m. we're going to be running at 7:00 and or hmm w44 except for the metric guys we are sixty three point six fifty point eight and forty three point eight so we need a hole in this off to the side of 30 millimeters that'll be our or hold it we'll use for laughing [Applause] [Music] [Applause] all right so zero inches 30 millimeter 30 point-0 3 that's close enough now we need to cut some grooves in this to hold or lapping compound while we're using it so it doesn't just squeeze out all right so everything's still in line and I'm gonna be using oh I've got the hiccups all right so a force besides it's 30 millimeters now I need to cut some lines lengthwise isn't that for parallel with the with the bore in order to hold some laughing compound so it just doesn't squeeze out the end you know if there was nowhere for this lapping compound to be it would just all work its way out the end so we need to combat that by cutting some relief grooves in here for it for that stuff to stay you need to do that I'm going to be using the carriage as a lathe pretty much as if there's a laser itself as a broaching machine but let me bring it down here I'll show you how I'm gonna achieve that and then we'll cut some cut some lines down this board it's a standard boring bar and radius tool from the set 5/64 radius all I did here was turn this that's a good thing about these williams bars that hold the square blanks so I just turned it over 90 degrees now the cutting edge is facing forward so I can set my depth of cut with the cross slide and then spend alone be rotating just move the carriage on it'll cut lengthwise to the board it's pretty basic but that's what we're gonna do so let's let's get 0 and make it tough now I need you very much it's probably good enough so it's time to drill this of course this is gonna be split so half of it needs threaded half of it needs clearance for the bolt I'm gonna use a 8 or yeah 8 by 1 point 2 5 millimeter bolt I'm gonna use one in the middle I think that it'll be adequate so with six point seven millimeters is the tap drill for the 8 by 1.25 and then we'll have to have clearance for this bolt to slide through on the top which probably eight point five millimeter just to guess so and then we'll go over to the AMT and we'll split this so we'll just do all the drilling pressure to keep everything in line and then split it laughs so let's drill and tap this and we'll go split all right so just ran my tap drill all the way through now I need to do my clearance and I've just got wine drew drawn halfway through was just fine I'm gonna take them off real long as it goes a little past halfway take it and sip my real stop now I can just drill to hit the stop basically yeah now I'm gonna split [Music] all right so we're just gonna slip this again a six-inch sledding saw here killed in the vertical head and you could do this on a bandsaw all had to do is stick a plate in this and I'm good to go being a laughs it doesn't matter long as it's flip the it's good enough all right so I'm just gonna leave this bearing on the spindle but I'm going to cover all you know everything's got to be covered that I'm going to be laughing on the slave you don't want to yeah you don't want that laughing compound we get everywhere cover the stuff we're going to start with a fine laughing compound and work our way up just a little bit of down and lapping compound I'm just starting off with a fine ten micron and then you know you can always work up if you need to this should go pretty fast I think systemic 840 entire surface implant and feel me out around this lack where's all this tightness level hold up here cleaning this off and check it you know just periodically so I get what I want that's um I'm measuring this lapped surface with a set of these are central mics with the tenths graduations on them and it's it's on the money I believe but the only way to for me to really tell is to pull the spindle out press that bearing on and see if it has the fifth that I want I'd like to have a set of mics that the mechanical ones that measure intense that'd be really nice or just a really nice set of digital's also these are okay I can't measure that bore accurately without some pin gauges also the bore of the bearing so it's a little guesswork here and a lot of you know how does it feel so get the greener number three mounted on the it's a heavy-duty stand right now the kmt mil and this is how I'm gauging my fit because I don't have a real great way to measure in the tents especially measuring a bore and a an OD I'm using just the fit to tell me whether I need to laughs you know more you can't laugh less you know so you never take off more here you hope you don't take off too much and that's not the case so been back and forth twice and I finally you got the feel that I want as far as press fit so I'm using this because or this manual press because you can get a better feel or at least I can get a better feel of how much force it takes over the hydraulics so that is the feel I want you a good snug there that's it now I can adjust it with the lock colors and hopefully get a you know an accurate in play or pre-loaded all the stuff that I used the diamond laughing straight to the trash otherwise these paper towels and stuff you know get circulated through everything else realize trash so my total lap time lapping time was really low probably 5 minutes or less I was using a similar course according to my finish lapping compound for this job 20 microns what I haven't used it's what I started with what I've finished with advisable to stop and check often because you don't want to remove too much anyway this is the pace that I used it's just a cheap overseas paste I think I paid like 12 bucks for it and it's a anywhere from 0.5 micron all the way up to 40 so good stuff for this kind of application I mean I wouldn't want to slap in a telescope lens that goes on a satellite with it but for normal shop stuff and for the mini lathe I think this is so great way to fix out-of-round and reduce in size a couple tenths if needed you can also reuse these always go up in size to a certain extent got a little flexure there you get the idea or it works well alright so a problem with the bearings that we're putting in here is that they're not sealed or shielded so we could pack these with grease but eventually all that grease will get ejected and you know we'll have to tear this thing back down and put some grease back on them or as they also be running dry the original bearings were rubber sealed pretty much maintenance-free but these are not so I've got to come up with a way to not have to tear this thing down every you know year six months or whatever depending on the use to repack these bearings I don't want have to be or that wants those things together I want it to pretty much stay together so I've said here thought and I believe that if I make a little copper tube and a little spring-loaded ball whether if I drill a couple holes in the headstock make up two of these oil delivery lines and point them toward each bearing if I use the high-pressure oiler I think that I'll be able to you know shoot a little oil on each one of these bearings right before I use it every time and I think that'll be adequate these bearings don't need to be soaked in oil they just need to not run dry so let's see if we can connect these two together I don't know that they will that they will they will try and if this works we'll drill some holes in the headstock and please try to get these installed okay so these little ballers are chromed so I knocked all the chrome off of it this is one shut down knocked all the chrome off around where I'm gonna be trying to join these things I'm using this Ruby fluid just as a soldering flux just wipe some on there and do it I've got it on my copper tube here that's cleaned I also flared out the end of this tube a bit to where it will fit the more of this oiler because it's to be honest it's a little small heath inch tubing but it's what I got so I'm gonna use standard the lead solder and just try to tend this thing hopefully it'll stick and it does that's good it wouldn't have stuck to that I don't want to get this thing too hot though it has a spring in it so I'm just you know trying to hit it real quick this is a pretty hot soldering iron so I'm gonna ten both of these I can get on there technical difficulties I look at that and I just need to go around and make sure it's all sealed out there we go look technical difficulty I just need to check looks actually pretty good have to clean off that saw No I think that'll work it's a 6.1 millimeter drill that'll leave ten thousands for my quarter entering her to remove [Music] sit should have to good quarter inch holes there so it works it'll be nice sharp II didn't do that paying any favors looks good good enough so here's the job I get into this kind of stuff all the time you know that a figure is worth sharing and this piece here is a large piece of ceramic I've got several of these to do and I've already done several and it's closed off on one end and hollow in the middle it's a thermo well it protects a high temperature thermocouple from burning up so fast they can be very expensive you can buy these and the size that we need custom but you know that takes time and money so we we don't have any time let's just say that so we're doing is grinding these down just clearance step to fit in the hole don't need to need to put them in finish doesn't matter you know the in size doesn't matter as long as it's down to a size that will fit so let me show you the setup here I'll show you a couple piece of your meal that come in and maybe a little grinding you know the idea behind this the way that I am so the viewer mail that I got want sure that we first two large magnets these are one a clip made by Eclipse I think that's american-made and then the other one down here with the bracketry both of these head brackets on them which is really nice it is made by kinetic which is made in Japan so nice gifts these were from John glass the gentleman who gave me the big piece of a to six inches round that I used to make the arbor press plate so thank you John I appreciate it he's local and had these and didn't need them so thank you I'm using one right now for my secondary dust collection you definitely don't want to breed them ceramic dust I got that full respirator and everything while I'm doing this but the secondary and the primary vacuum I mean I'm almost dealing with no dust at all but still you know I think it's wise to to protect yourself anyway let me get you up here let me show you one of these that's done one that's not and one in progress and you know talk about the wheel a little bit so there's nothing true about these they're just ceramic and they're bent slightly they're oval-shaped and you know I said this is just a rough job but hopefully you can see the reduction in size here this one's finished and this one is not you know just reducing them by about 45 to 50 thousandths on the OD so I don't even care if the Heidi and oh dear state concentric really they don't have to be perfect so there's like Sarah it's just rough but needs to be done now the wheel that I'm using is just a 1 a 1 just a straight diamond wheel 3/8 wide I've got this head tilted about 1 degrees counterclockwise and I'm grinding in this direction just the stretch normally then I backed out reset and then grind again and the reason why I've got the head tilted and I'm grinding in that direction is that I'm trying to you know these are a resin bonded wheel and they're it's gonna wear but I'm trying not to roll over this edge yeah rather have a slight angle on there than a rolled over edge mmm you know it's just I'm trying but it seems to be seems to be working so let me get this fired up I'll show you a pass and then we'll move on okay so oil wines are in I'll show them to you in just a second looks like they fitted this headstock to the lathe bed with a belt sander or file just an extension but this thing's going to be cleaned out really well let me show you you know I set up my little oil of oil delivery tubes alright so you can see this one back here hopefully it comes down from the top we put the oil and comes down and delivers it to the bottom of the bearing same on the reverse side and there's really no room in here be honest those were tough and really need bent before you put the lines in you know bend them to go about what you think you need and then put them in let me slide a bearing in here get you a different angle and show you where they put oil so here's a shot through the headstock you can see the oil delivery line right there and the bearing so all that little line does is deliver oil right between the rollers and the race you know where the oil is needed really so and it's tough to get those in there just that there's just no room to work in here let me mock it up with the gears and everything in it and I'll show you what I'm talking about so here's a look inside the headstock with everything mocked up there's my two Oilers hopefully those show up they clear but just barely so there those were tough to get bent in you know position where they need to go here's a low range selector the gears are just glass fiber reinforced nylon I believe nothing special there is a low range and high range so it's a really simple setup but you know long as it works the spindle definitely feels good let me show you what I plan to do about the backside of the spindle there's a barring shielding issue that I got a at least somewhat address here's a look at the backside of the spindle you know this is the shield how good that paint job is I guess it matters but so this originally just went in to kind of shield that back bearing the original sealed one but it does not do much to keep anything from getting in there you do have a spacer here but still that's a large hole for stuff to get in dirt and grime this your input shaft so I'm gonna build instead of a plastic spacer here that you know is wrong size now I'm gonna make a steel I believe is I'm gonna make it out of steel maybe aluminum the spacer that has a large ring on it that will somewhat create a little labyrinth seal just to keep dirt from directly being able to go in there that's the idea anyway to try to keep these somewhat dirt free I mean it's gonna fail but it's at least better than that so let me draw it up and we'll maybe make it up if we have time I don't know it may have to stop here I guess I think that's all I have time for this we will that is all I have time for this week hopefully you enjoyed what we've done so far you know I use this lathe and I like it for the Sun from some of the small things I do it's definitely a benefit to have that's why I'm doing this modification not necessarily like I've said to make it more accurate but just to in a in an attempt to make it more rigid and chat or less that's the idea anyway for me so hopefully this helps and they're still still aways together I need to work on the back of this and everything that I've run into on this lathe needs some sort of attention which is to be expected for the price or than the quality but I like it that's what I'm doing so thanks for watching guys send me an email if you need anything if you would like to support the channel check out the links in the description I'd appreciate it we all would of course and you've got something safe send me an email leave me a comment if you've done this before and got any suggestions and that's it so thanks for watching guys appreciate it and I'll see you next time [Music]

Channel: Steve Summers

Views: 232,617

Keywords: Repair, fix, motor repair, metal lathe, how to, Milling, metal lahte, machine shop, metal work, machinist, cutter grinder, tips, cnc, welding, rebuild, beautiful, awesome, homemade, sharpening, motorcycle, heavy duty, machines, HSS, AVE, Abom79, powerful, restore, funny, tools, custom, success, rust removal, blacksmith, precision, farm, drill, weld, surface grinder, truck, shaper, amazing, Railroad, Anvil, dirtbike, brazing, DIY, wood, railroad, machining, metalshaper, restoration, K&T, pump, Tips, tricks, industrial, mini lathe

Id: pg8BiW0Tqwo

Length: 39min 15sec (2355 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 05 2019