Pt. 2 How-To Make Texas Sausage | Bill Dumas Master Sausage Sensei | BBQ Champion Harry Soo

we have the uh famous pizza sausage yup ready to be unveiled by sausage meister bill dumas absolutely gorgeous color super juicy so this is a beaulie pip beauty pigs are made in the dallas fort worth area i believe garland texas the advantage is there's a thermostatic control but more importantly with this guy because i can regulate my temperature between racks at a 25 degree variant per rack i can start low and finish hot here's what we're using we're using good old central texas post oak because this is so hard and dense but it's a good straight grain that this is going to burn nice and long but it's also going to burn fairly hot there's not a whole lot of compound content in this guy if it's seasoned well so what that means is you're going to have an immediate burst of heat as this rascal takes play [Music] [Music] my name is bill dumas i am the lead sausage maker for liberty barbecue in round rock texas and brotherton's black iron barbecue in bluegroove texas try saying that twice all right so welcome welcome uh i'm with my good buddy harry sue who's on the other end of that camera there he is you saw his thumb he's filming so we're gonna go through and talk about the sausage making process uh some of the highlights if you will right we're going to go through the process but it's not going to be as detailed as if you were going to take one of my classes i do book individual and group classes for sausage making so you can hit me up harry will provide those details later some of those little nuances and finer detail are in those classes yes but for today we're going to go ahead and go through the process of making a nice good central texas jalapeno cheese sausage a classic right my methods are a little bit different than some right these are not commercially grade commercially made sausages obviously these are made for the restaurant as i mentioned prior so what that means is this is craft barbecue in the same sense that brisket or pork butt or or pork ribs yes so with that in mind it's artisanal and i make them with these two hands and with this braid and with this heart which is important with all that being said the sausage making process whether it's one stick of sausage or one thousand pounds of sausage takes three days why because day one we're trimming and we're getting our fat ratios and salt ratios correct and weighed out sausage making is exactly like baking where is it must be precise fat ratios must be precise has to salt ratios must be precise and there are some things to remember in respect to temperatures that must be precise as well so day one is trimming and weighing out the proteins fats and salt that's day one that's called setting the cure and i'm not talking about the band to cure with robert smith we're talking about setting the cure day two is grinding the mix finding it by mixing and applying any other binding agents so it's grinding binding casing and linking that's day two sausage rest after grinding biting tasting and linking for 24 hours and then day three we smoke the sausage on the pit also known as double smoking okay so that's the basic thrust of sausage making from here we're just going to go through the processes and you'll see it as i do sound good so i've got everything already prepped out like the magic of television so off we go yeah i've already taken the liberty and and skipped the cat off a few steps right remember it's the highlights here not the full detail yes so we're trying to condense some time with that being said here is the proteins and the fats and the salt remember cure day one right here it is so this is basically a 70 30 ratio 70 protein 30 fat okay with an approximate uh one percent salt rate okay so i've already grounded and i've grounded central texas style coarsely one pass only do not grind twice we're looking for texture that's a hallmark of texas sausage yes so this is about approximately a six millimeter plate that i've ground this on okay so we ground it and because we're producing heat because movement is friction and friction is heat right we have to get it cold again fat does not like to be hot all right so here we go i've ground it up it's already been refrigerated and gotten nice and tight and nice and cold so now we're going to bind it right so this was on the first part of day one we're gonna go into day two and bind it and link it okay so what i'm gonna do because this is 40 pounds of product is i find it easier to divide the mix right roughly roughly 20 pounds i'm not going to weigh that out but i know just eyeballing it i'm going to divide it out it makes it easier to handle so i'm just going to go ahead and take care of that right now and dump some of this in this tub so 20 20 is it 20 pound 20 pounds right yes that is correct so roughly 20 pounds each and this and the reason why i'm doing it is because you see how shallow these tubs are these tubs are very shallow if i tried to dump the bind inside one tub it just makes it a little bit more difficult to work with i don't like difficult so i like things to be nice and easy so off we go this is roughly half and half yes so by the magic of television i have already prepped out or measure plot my ingredients yes i use dried jalapeno pepper flakes why do i do that because these are more consistent remember consistency is keen especially from the customer's perspective so what we're looking for is consistent distribution within the sausage mix and we're also looking for a consistent heat level in respect to the jalapenos i won't get that uh with fresh jalapenos i also don't want to add extra moisture into the mix so that's why i use dehydrated okay and for a 40 pound batch i use roughly a little less than one quart there's no set level in respect to that it depends on your personal taste and tolerance for heat okay i like it it says jalapeno in the name it better have jalapeno in it so i'm just going to go ahead and roughly divide that off we go all right so there's that here's a bit of a controversial subject generally speaking especially with commercially made sausages uh it's common to use a type of cheese that's called restricted melt or high temperature what that means is if you were cut into a sausage and you visually see a square chunk of cheese that's high temperature or restricted milk cheese it has a very very high temperature or emulsification rate melt rate uh i don't like that because i think the texture tastes and looks like plastic so i don't like that i want the cheese to distribute itself evenly nose to tail from this sausage to this sausage way down the line and from mix to mix not only that but i like the flavor of a really good high quality cheese like tillamook secret now you just review your secret sauce to tell everybody he's using telehook don't tell the world here so we're just running on buying it now so yeah let the secret down yeah i did so you'll pay extra for that later don't give all your secrets out so what i do is i just take my handy dandy robogu and you can do this with a knife if you wanted to you could tear it up in chunks me i like to get this broke down into little smaller pieces there it goes so what we'll do and by the way if i forgot to mention it which i probably did right this is four pounds right no cheese and a 40 pound batch so what does that mean that means one pound per 10 pounds and this will produce the ooey gooeyness that we like without introducing too much bat into the mix so we're not going to blow our fat ratio out of the water because of the amount of cheese that we're using at this level it says jalapeno cheese in the name i want you to know that there's cheese in it so this is four pounds of cheese and as you can see i'm just giving it a rough tear all right now that black belt area he revealed his his secret formula so for those of you paying attention take notes guys take notes yeah you're not going to get this from any master sausage maker anywhere in america or in the world yeah yep yep yep so i'm just chopping this up in the robocoo and by the way if you've got the bucks to spend the robo coup is the way to go this is the album japan uh this yeah anime right yeah it has to be right yes the japanese anime character and we got some sake if you want some later so what i'm doing i'm just giving it a good pull as i mentioned you can do this with a knife you can tear it up in chunks but i'll show you the pieces the size of pieces i like and i just kind of give it a good whirl off we go boom like that dump it into our mix slam just like that all right so as i mentioned earlier this is a 40 pound batch yes so with 40 pounds i'm usually averaging about 120 lengths uh per batch and i say about because we use 32 35 millimeter that's referring to the uh inside diameter of the casing natural hog casing so there's a little bit of variance but generally speaking it is 120 lengths per uh 40 pound batch okay and we'll get into casings here in just a minute we're just going to kind of take care of this bit of tedium so we got the batch divided we've got the jalapeno flakes in place yes and we have the cheese in place all right now what we're going to do is we're going to weigh out our binder okay and what does that mean so what that means is is binding is the physical mechanical motion of mixing this product up right friction is heat heat right so what that does is as you're mixing it is that's going to emulsify the fat by doing that right the the protein molecules or protein strands in the fat will not change nate they're not going to change themselves but they'll change their nature the more you mix it the more the fat heats up and the tackier it becomes right the tackier it becomes it will actually pack itself into the casing a lot easier and a lot nicer we don't want to mix it too much or we're going to over emulsify it like a hot dog okay we don't want hot dogs we want really good sausage so how do we do that we do that by the introduction of a measured amount of water and ice known as an ice slurry we never want to exceed more than one percent of the weight of the product okay so with that being said what we're looking for is i'm looking for four pounds of ice and water okay so i'm going to take this handy dandy container put it on my scale wait a second there we go tear that out because we don't want to include that weight all right no bueno so now we're zeroed out okay so now what i want to do is i'm going to go back behind me over here and the ice machine is in a very handy location which is right here what i'm looking for is i'm looking for four pounds all right i know that one scoop of this and this is just based on my own experience is roughly roughly two and a half pounds it's two point three four i'll live with that yes so there's the ice [Music] now i'm gonna add the water and bring that up to four pounds exactly okay so what does that mean that means that would be one pound per 10 pounds yes follow me so we're gonna introduce the water and we're looking for four pounds and we want to be as precise as we can be too much liquid is bad you'll never get the sausage to bind correctly you'll never get the tack that you want if you add too much liquid so we must be precise remember i said this is like bacon yes [Music] oh look at there are we gonna do it three point nine four uh six nine eight ah there we go okay nailed it nailed it now here i measure plod my mix already yes so what we got is we have our seasonings measured out okay and then we have our binder in this case this is dry non-fat milk powder this right attaches itself to the protein molecules inside that fat right so this increases the tap as we're mixing but it also but it also uh dry knockout milk powder also retains moisture that's curious but that's what it does so we're going to increase the tack we're going to give the fat molecules a helping hand make them tackier and we're also going to retain moisture by using non dry fat milk powder has no taste if you're lactose intolerant don't worry about it it's not enough to make any measurable difference this is all dry ingredient this is wet so i'm going to take the opportunity to get it all happy together right so what's the world's best mixing tool this off we have and we'll just gonna get it all hydrated and mix that and that is just about perfect so always be clean change your gloves ready to rumble okay so now we're going to take this into our handy dandy robo kid look remember all that cheese that was left in there don't worry about that waste not washing all right so this is going to make a slurry okay anyone want a smoothie there we go uh here you get the first taste okay here we go here we go looking good that's what i'm looking for all right so i'll take this and i just dump it right in there oh yeah helpful hint remember i've used water i wonder what would happen if you use beer oh wow no i wonder what would happen if you use red wine i've done that that's a good opportunity right here when you're using a wet binder this is called using a wet binder right you can introduce different flavors and liquids beer red wine sake whatever okay it's a good opportunity to do that off we go look at that yep now you split the binder about half and half is it about half an hour half and half right so okay we're gonna marry these two guys together together okay so it's gonna be mixed okay so so it's gonna it doesn't really matter that you didn't get it 50 50 exactly because it all comes together anyway right yeah it's all gonna get married together all right how many times a day do you have to do this bill like make this awesome i'm always making sausage because i'm operating for two restaurants so i'm always prepping or i'm doing this or i'm smoking every single day so i'm always kicking the can down the road every day so helpful hint for the helpless yes use gloves use gloves yeah this is additional this is going to be cold yeah and you don't want to freeze freeze your hand off i've learned that the hard way frostbite in austin yeah exactly now we're going to get aggressive with this remember so i keep saying it and i'll keep repeating it the reason why we want to use ice cold liquid in a slurry as we're mixing because when we're mixing we're generating heat right which emulsifies the fat okay now we want to use an ice slurry to kind of lessen and dampen that emulsification rate right based on the fat's uh temperature range of melt makes sense so we want to use the ice to kind of put a damper on that we want to put the liquid in there right in the form of the of the ice slurry as well to help liquefied the seed the uh the seasonings and the milk powder right but that also helps us mix the product and helps us get it really tacky pay attention to how it looks now versus how it's going to look when i'm done [Music] here's a good ear mark see that nice and tacky see how that's all sticky and see these white strands that are pulling away from the mix that's a good good thing to know because those little white strands tell me that it's been mixed enough and because it's so tacky all right that's going to pack inside the casing nice and tight right so that means we're going to have a good texture right we're going to have good color there's not going to be any air pockets and that also means that doing his workout on the second batch i'm going to taste some of his barbecue here uh let's see what do we have bill we have a brisket fernand and a rib right yeah that's some pickles cosmic pickles nice snack and crunch all right let's try his rib right here and that's a mango serrano glaze oh mango serrano glaze rip wow that's super duper the ribs gonna be a little unique wow the season little sweet a little fruity beautiful amount of smoke not overdone super tender super delicious wish you guys were here man come come check out bill's place well he's working hard i'm just going to continue to chow down on my rib here okay moving on to the burnt end now okay look at this how beautiful this thing is look at that absolutely absolutely gorgeous yeah that's what i put in the box for competition purposes here crazy good salty smoky peppery all that beef goodness here all right gonna burn in here and here is the uh stellar pistella resistance the brisket with a little bit of a fatty and moist together while bill's working i'm i'm carrying down here super good nothing like central texas barbecue never had it you gotta come up to texas get some of that post oh brisket oh yeah salt pepper oh yeah hard to go wrong one of the simple pleasures in life how'd it go wrong but you need skill for those of you who have been cooking you know it's not that easy to cook brisket you tried at home and you were not successful so you know it's always about the pit master never the pit never the meat you got to be a good pit master so nice and mixed up nice and tight so because we introduced heat and relative terms to the equation we're talking about the melt rate which in this case on this decal pad means in the neighborhood of 40 to 45 degrees fahrenheit that's your melt rate right so heat in relative terms and in respect to uh its melting temperature as we're mixing so that's where we're at so because we introduce heat to the equation i'm going to put this back inside the walk-in and let it chill out for just a second while we assemble our equipment to case and we also have some sausage to check out there too so many things going on at one so it's already set up all right chilled out in the uh walk-in for about 30 minutes and you can see what it looks like nice and tight that's exactly what we want we're going to do a sausage stuffer we're going to pack any particular brand you recommend that people get tabletop version which is what this one is 35 pound hopper that means i don't have to keep refilling it constantly my motto is buy something larger than you think you actually need because you're going to grow into it and with that being said my product like this grinder below as well as the stuffer is made by l e m l m yeah that's a pretty standard uh industry brand everybody uses it it certainly is we're not gonna break the bank it's durable uh there are a couple of uh schools of thought and respect to stuffers some people like automated i'm not a i'm not opposed to automated but for a piece of tabletop equipment which is what this one is i prefer the old-school manual hand crank because i'm tactile i like to feel it and that's just how i roll so the casings all right we got it packed inside the can thusly nice and tight good pack so no air pockets we're gonna load it off all right bring it down and we're going to prime our stuffing horn all right so we want to prime the horn get some product in there you all right buddy so we do not have an air pocket air pockets are no bueno for sausage primed ready to rumble we're using 32 35 millimeter natural hog casings and 32 35 millimeter refers to the inside diameter of the casing itself all right so they've been soaked and thoroughly and kept cold there's a theme here can is cold the product is cold the casings are cold why because we're not trying to emulsify the fast and the sausage prematurely but more importantly microbes do not like cold they will not propagate as heavily in things that are cold right so clean and cold is the mantra so we have our casings soaked they're in a little bit of water there's no magic to finding the end okay so here we go like a water balloon okay now i'm going to get a water pocket formed in that casing all right what that's going to do is that's going to lubricate it and it's going to flush it out at the same time like getting on the water balloon onto the hydrant see that water pocket it goes right down here and we're just going to feed a good measure of casings onto the horn now casings are packed in a measurement known as a hank right and a hank will stuff in this diameter roughly 50 pounds worth of product okay multitasker yes off we go i like to try and operate clean so i'll get the water off the table this is the part of the process that requires the most finesse because we're trying to get just enough product inside the casing without being too loose but we don't want it too tight so it's a happy medium like goldilocks and the three bears tight but not too tight loose but not too loose we can over stuff it and bulge it out like a water balloon and we don't want that either so what i do is and this is my method so i bring a little bit out like this okay now hold on to it thusly watch my hand it's like a magician and i provide a little bit of pressure on the tube so it's about pressure and speed speed and pressure i'm trying to slow it down here at this point on the horn versus how fast i'm cranking it will determine how much is being put into the casing makes sense off we go so here i'm holding it i'm applying a slight amount of pressure and i like to work in small ish ropes they're easier for me to deal with and forensically it looks something like this it's about 10 feet so it looks something like this tight but not too tight loose but not too loose okay so here she is and remember the mantra is to keep that rascal cold all right so i'm going to put my gut back in the walk in i'm gonna grab my rope bam there we go rinse lather repeat watch my hand see that slight amount of pressure on the horn cranking away and off we go thusly how about that all right it goes in the walk-in now we're going to beat some more casings on rinse lather repeat these sausages average 0.33 per pound so the reason why they are 0.33 per pound as that is consistent for the pricing of our menu and it's also consistent in size in respect to the k the diameter of the casing which is 32 35 millimeter all right so we've already cased it now we're going to link it appropriately okay so the goal is is to get it we've already we've already tried to get it cased up inside the casing nice and tight which is what we've done right not too limp not too loose okay but what now we want to do is we want to get it even tighter inside the casing the tighter that we can get it inside this casing as we're linking is going to provide the snap and the proper texture that we're looking for in the sausage so it's going to require a little bit of finesse okay in fact quite a bit of finesse this is the part of the equation that intimidates most people but don't let it i sucked at this for the longest time very long time and then one day it just clicked it's like anything else you do in life like playing a guitar learning another language whatever it may be it's just time okay so with that being said we already have a road laid out that i am going to this is the reason why i like to have an end on it so i can work it okay makes it easier so what i'm going to do is like squeezing toothpaste but look at my hand it's like i don't know and it's actually squeezing the product in that's what we're doing so i'm going to hold it i'm going to squeeze the product down then i'm going to set my length and i set my length i can do this by eyeballing because it's muscle memory if you need to mark your table with tape or a scribe or maybe another sausage or maybe a block of wood whatever you got or maybe a ruler to help you determine your lengths in respect to size right in respect to how many inches me i'm looking for a roughly six to eight inches right then that will vary based on the diameter of the of the casing but i'm going to set my length just by pinching it see then i'm going to hold it here see how to squeeze down this hand stays stationary it never moves i've already set my length and then watch my fingers see that i'm going to twirl it a couple times take my handy dandy sausage pricker if you perceive there to be an air pocket or if you see that there's an air pocket go ahead and prick it give it a couple more turns tada look at that nice and tight all right so that's going this way next one goes opposite direction all right so you don't untie this knot all right i'm holding it tight on the meat here i've already set my length again looking here see now oh you have a couple of turns to set the knot look air pockets see it not anymore there's not and don't worry about poking it too much it magically heals itself i know that sounds strange but it's an actual truth look at that go to the next one squeeze down set the length now looking here i had to kind of tighten this one up and this one has an imperfection in the casing so we're going to be gentle with that and we're going to twirl twirl twirl poke poke poke twirl twirl twirl now if we kept twirling and kept twirling and quit curling it would eventually get too tight and break we don't want that so there's a happy medium see that that spring perfect that's exactly what we want that went forward that went back that went forward guess what this one goes back yes here we go after about two three hours of work here we go 44 pounds of perfectly length jalapeno cheese sausage okay now notice how everything is nice and uniform and tight uniformity and consistency is always king correct so we have 44 pounds of finished product that's our yield okay and this is gonna hang out and rest overnight okay and then tomorrow morning it'll be ready for smoking in the pit so there we go guys helpful hint never exceed more than 150 degrees internal on a sausage if you take that rascal up to 165 you're gonna over render it over rendering is not a sausage's best friend all right i'm gonna make the executive decision based on how that feels and looks to go ahead and pull it okay so these sausages right here are all double smoked and that is exactly what it means these are taken very low in the pit at an operating temperature of 150 degrees fahrenheit inside the pit okay but we're taking them to 150 degrees internal all right from there once they hit 150 degrees internal they're brought out of the pit into an ice bath where it stops the cooking arrested it shocks it so not only does it rest the cooking but it also shrinks the casing up on top tied to the mix from there it goes back into the pit and achieves 150 degrees internal again once that happens it's brought out sheet trade and goes right into the walk-in and that's another shock that also tightens and rests the cooking that also tightens the case casings up onto the product right so essentially when it's all said and done when we're talking about double smoking as i just described briefly plus the fact that when it's in the walk-in after double smoking it's rte ready to eat ready for service right so when the guys need it they'll pull it from the walk-in and right back on the pit up to back off the operating temperature again which is 150 degrees internal and onto the customer's plate all right guys here we go this is the sausage trio this is our everyday menu right one of these sausages is not like the other okay and that would be the boudin and this particular boudin is brisket boudin okay so boudin is a staple all throughout acadiana southern louisiana this is our texas barbecue version of boudin so basically it's cooked rice it's smoked brisket and then it's uh a version of the trinity so that would be red onions red bell peppers jalapenos and hatch green chiles and i cook that down like a sofrito then everybody gets married together re-seasoned and dropped in the casing smoked i mean look at that huh nice this guy right here is an everyday menu item and this is a jalapeno cheese sausage which is a pork and beef blend that's actually what we're making in there today yes and then this is a classic central texas uh what i call a hot gut right so this is very beef predominant uh sometimes uh depending upon if i have an overage on pork or underage on brisket i will introduce a little bit more pork but this guy is basically beef dependent okay so central texas hot gut jalapeno cheese brisket boudin here we go all right little bit master knife skills here going on is there a story behind your knife there is this knife is made in matador texas by matador maker and it's a very very nice good custom made knife handmade a very good friend of mine uh zach steele gave it to me good guy so looky here guys a couple of takeaways on this sausage right here i want y'all to take notice something look how tight that casing is up onto the mix you see that the snap on this casing is incredible look at the mix it's not a commercial grade grind it's very nice and coarse see the specks of black pepper oh my goodness that is central texas and a tube right there all right now this guy that's the central texas hot gut now let's see if we can get this to snap you want to all right let's do that you ready yep oh look at that oozing oozing goodness here cheesy oozing melting dishes oh man that that may be pretty good that is good stuff that's a food porn right there and here's another thing to take note of yes look at that you can see the jalapenos in there right mm-hmm look at all that jalapeno look at all that seeds oh my god here's another thing it's not drying out the fat ratio is perfect i'm sitting here it's not oxidizing at all right brisket boudin oh man look at that now you chop the brisket up oh yes i do i chop it up with a cleaver okay please chop the brisket i do it the right way my goodness look at that look at all that rice the trinity i see chunks of brisket right up in here i don't know guys okay i can't wait here okay let's go give it a shot here absolutely absolutely delish here wow wish you were here the boudin has that wonderful texture of the rice like a soft pillow that flavor of the brisket smoke the seasoning that's soft absolutely absolutely amazing brisket let's try this one here now this is the jalapeno cheddar that you saw bill making so juicy moist delicious crazy crazy good wow that is good it's very good yeah if i don't say so myself that's really really really good but man the snap on that casing and look at this still glistening not oxidizing at all so three days of effort there's no shortcut if you want to make texas guts this is the way to do it if you guys want come check out bill's class the teachers classes are about every weekend right and on demand people around the world have come to texas to learn from master bill dumas so you guys are interested i'll leave the information in the video link below come check him out and he'll show you all of his secrets and beyond he's got dozens and dozens of recipes now you also do consulting for people who want to i do yes i do i i i will consult on site uh done at various locations all over god's creation so yep we can talk about anything so just give me a buzz all right great great job bill thanks [Music] you

Channel: Harry Soo

Views: 25,758

Keywords: bill dumas, texas sausage, sausage recipes, how to make sausage, sausage how to make, How-to, how to cook, recipes, food, cooking, recipe, meat, smoking, smoked, smoker, tasty, charcoal, smoke, harry soo, slap yo daddy bbq

Id: hd6RLrOuy4s

Length: 40min 5sec (2405 seconds)

Published: Sat Jun 12 2021