Porting bacics

all right now we're gonna talk about porting and polishing I'm sure you've heard the term my heads are ported and polished or whatever you know that's a really miss used statement there you know porting is one thing port matching is another thing and polishing is something totally different basically what what porting and polishing means porting means getting their heads or the intake manifold to make a certain flow and to fit a certain size what we're talking about like it's the runners right here here's some intake runners these are unported these are as cast right here you can see they're not very symmetrical they're kind of off shaped and everything these typically don't match intake manifolds either intake manifold might have an entirely different shape or an attorney different size if we look over here these have been ported you can see they're more symmetrical in size it's not just about smoothing out the material inside or anything you can see it is a little bit smoother in here but that doesn't really have a whole lot to do with it polishing you know when they talk about polishing no one on the street polishes heads that's just a really no-no thing to do any time heads are polished too and they're talking about like a mirror or it looks you know like chrome inside there what happens when you're in the bathroom and you got steam inside the air you know do you see water droplets on the wall no where do you find it on the mirror why because the mirror is very smooth and what's the idea of an internal combustion engine the whole whole basis behind it is to burn atomized fuel well if it's got beads of gasoline and droplets running down the intake runners just because they're over polished or anything liquid fuel doesn't burn atomized fuel burns so you don't really want to polish intakes sometimes people will polish the exhaust ports the reason they'll do that is because carbon doesn't stick to it very well so it's tends to stay cleaner when you get carbon buildup in there it messes up the flow and it's minut though you know on a street motor it's not that big of a deal but on a high horsepower high end race motor when you know one one thousandth of a second might mean winning a race and not winning a race and you got a bunch of carbon buildup in there it can make that much of a difference but on the street you would notice it in a million years so no one on the street really ports and polishes their heads it always has a little bit of a texture which is fine nothing wrong with that at all all right so what's the other type of porting there are port matching port matching is when you put a gasket up here which I'll show you that a little bit later but it when you put a gasket up through the head or up to the intake manifold and you only cut in like Oh an inch something like that you're not doing the entire runner inside that's port matching and that's that's a good thing to do when you have aftermarket intake manifolds or performance heads you always want to match the intake to the heads and you also want to match the heads and the intake to the gasket size that you're using they call that gasket matching or or gasket porting or anything like that or port matching let's talk about actual porting though what's happening inside the head and what what porting is all about let me show you just some basic fundamentals here there's just some basic water pipe right here you know we we measure air flow and everything through here on what we call a flow bench and at the end of this series I'm going to show you that on a flow bench but you'll notice on the flow bench they measured in water because what is air it's vaporized water okay so everything is measured in water units 28 kilograms of water is a usual basis for measurement so let's talk about air and water going through a pipe if you're trying to plumb water through this pipe right here it's gonna come down it slams into here swirls around and goes right on out not very efficient for making flow you get a lot of reversion in here and just you know a weather system happening in here that's not ideal you know if we had something like this though a very nice smooth transition air coming down here shoots around the corner and just goes where it's gonna go in a faster manner and the whole key here in porting is not always sighs it's not the bigger the better I mean that's for sure velocity is where it's at in most cases especially for street performance it's better to have a high velocity high flowing head or a high velocity head will flow better than a big head that flows big numbers with a small displacement engine and I'm talking small displacement like 350 to 400 cubic inches you know to us in a race shop a big displacement motorist 555 572 614 cubic inches not something you normally run on the street so when you see a race car running and they say yeah my head's flow you know 400 20 CFM you're certainly not gonna put a head like that on a 350 cubic-inch you won't expect it to run very well you know below 10,000 rpm anyway it's just not going to happen so the trick is velocity and what we mean by velocity all that means is air speed how fast the air is flowing through there and air speed has a lot to do with it imagine this I mean if I took a blow gun from my air compressor and I blew it at your hat on your head you'd blow it right off your head and it's just coming out a little pin hole why because of the velocity air coming out the pressure behind it it makes flow the whole idea behind porting is also the same thing create velocity you create flow so it's not always the bigger the better trust me on that one another thing what we do in porting here what you want to watch out for are two unalike sizes right here you can see the white one is definitely larger than the black one right here well that that can also be the same thing with with heads I mean imagine this being the intake side and it's going into the head right here or the head runner well that's fine you think well that that's okay but look what happens on the inside right inside here there's a lip so all the air going down inside there is going to hit that and it's going to cause a reversion as the air is flowing down right here it's going to hit that inside lip and cause a back swirl that's called reversion that doesn't help any the velocity or any of the flow that's for sure so the object of to get it to work right would be to have two alike sizes exactly together now inside this pipe right here there is no lip inside it's just one flow to the next a nice smooth transition that's the whole idea between porting and trust me a sixteenth of an inch here a 32nd diminish there an eighth of an inch over here makes a huge difference in flow I mean that can be Oh a difference between a ported head and a none ported head let me tell you this from a stock unported cast iron head say the motor makes 350 horsepower if you take the same head and you poured it in your port making it match the intake manifold that motor can easily make 400 to 425 horsepower it's an easy 50 to 75 horsepower in some cases a hundred horsepower increase just because of the head and the intake flow that's nothing to shake a stick at some serious horsepower numbers so it's definitely worth doing all right this is a head right here we've modified on a bandsaw it's ported on one side here and unported over here with different valves basically so we can see that intake and exhaust runners unported and intake and exhaust runners that are ported let's show you what I mean right here this is what's inside of the head right here we can turn this a little bit here just to give you an idea here's the exhaust runner right here this is where the valve is I can turn this a little your way too this is where they where the valve sits right here and closes against the seat so when the exhaust valve opens all the air comes out and rushes on out of here and we can see that inside I'll give you this one right here there are pretty big lips right in here does a sharp corner right here there's a sharp edge right here that's not very good for helping air flow and keeping velocities up on the upper speed there if we compare that to this side over here there's one that's been ported it's all smooth transition right here it's a smooth transition very smooth around here it's also enlarged to match the valve size if we look right here here's the actual valve inside there you can see what's going on when the valve opens it's a smooth transition right on out no lips or anything to run into if we compare it over here there's some pretty sharp corners you can actually see a line right there where a lip is that's going to redirect the air towards the center and actually kind of compress the air inside they're not real good we just want it smooth flowing remember the whole idea here is just to make a smooth transition and help increase the air speed and flow to get fuel and air in the motor and make a bigger bang and when you got a bigger bang what goes in must come out if it ain't coming out you're still you know you have a constipated motor which is not a very good thing to have it's like having a great big breathing motor and a little teeny exhaust system what goes in has to come out it was too small I can't get out however though if it's too big which is just like porting if you go too big you lose your velocity which means you lose your bottom and torque your bottom and power your throttle response all that stuff and that's not good either so remember I said that before bigger is not better but you can see the transition here is really nice nice and smooth these are not polished this is just a what we call a swirl polish right here let's look at the intakes next all right on the intake side right here we're gonna open one up on unported side it's giving an idea what's going on inside here this is where the airflow is on in from the intake manifold right here right on through and again we can see very large lips inside here right there it's going to redirect the air basically at the center of the valve well the center of the valve right here doesn't flow air flow us off the edge of the valve so we certainly don't want to direct air to the middle here we want to direct it to the edge sides also this makes it smaller in here it's not very big across here I mean the valve see its way over here and right in this area we have a lot of metal in here that could be removed from there same width here it's it could be removed off of here it could make a better smoother transition and against size is not always what matters on this thing it's it's again flow and velocity so we can look over here you can actually see how the valve works open and closing here here's where the valve opens and closes just like this so we don't really want anything inside here directing the air to come off here to slam it to the to the middle of the valve right here we want to make sure it directs around and nothing here to deflect the air back we just want a nice smooth transition to work it right off the feet to see to the valve because that's how it's going to fill the cylinder let's look at the port inside here there's one that's ported right there as you can see a smoother transition here no lips inside it's all nice and smooth right in here and I'm not talking smooth textures and polishing wise I'm just talking smooth as in no bumps or ridges or anything like that to redirect air it's just a smooth transition it just helps direct air to the face of the valve that's it end of the cylinder we fill the cylinder we make power a bigger bang the motor goes better that's the whole idea behind this here so it's just just porting doesn't have to go crazy on heads like this a little bit goes a long way and it's better to under port than over port you can certainly screw a head up by just going in here and hog and everything out and a lot of people make that mistake and they just start opening everything up and they wipe out a head I mean anything Biggers better and then I'm going slower than they did if I just left the doggone thing alone so you got to be careful with this and that's what I'm going to show you is how to do this the right way just give you an idea on the exhaust side let's turn this around there's one last thing you can see the size difference as opposed to unported deported this is just poured into the large exhaust gaskets sighs this is a little big for the street this head was originally reported for a little circle tracker that ran an open exhaust but anything between these two sizes is fine you know in the shape you just go by the shape of the gasket and if you're going to buy headers make sure the headers pretty much match the shape of the head there's no sense in buying a round header when you got a square port right here so just you know keep that in mind when you're when you're getting ready to port and what shape you're going to go with and what size headers you're gonna have and what the shape of the headers are gonna be and we'll keep all that in check and things should be good so you want to port your own heads you've got to have the right tools to do the right job I'm gonna show you the basic tools and the bits and things to use and things not to use and where to get them basically you need a die grinder I mean you're going to need an air compressor most tools are air driven so you going to need a pretty sizable Aric air compressor to do these kind of tools they run quite a bit of air through these so if you don't have an air compressor you're gonna need one unless you want to go with a electric one this is an electric die grinder right here they work okay they're a little cumbersome but they do work okay if you're just gonna do it once or twice this is okay but if you're gonna do it a lot definitely don't want that it's just too big and cumbersome so basically this one right here is a 90 degree die grinder I prefer these myself I've been doing this for decades I really like these I like the way you can get in there and move and these are obviously for removing metal both cast iron or aluminum I just like the way you know you can move this there are straight ones right here this is a straight guy grinder sometimes you can get in there use it like a pencil or use it you know with both hands or whatever these to me are a little hard to use some people really like these that's fine you know to each his own everybody has their own little thing but you're definitely gonna want to use an air one next are the bits what type of bits to use the ears right here I've got some laid out this is a single cut in fact this is a rough cut single cut bit single cuts are for removing aluminum as you can see right here it's a single fluted blade just like these where one that's for removing cast iron is not we look at this right here it's cut this way and this way it's a cross cut blade you never want to use a single cut blade like this especially a rough one like this one here on cast iron it'll just dull it right down it's made for removing aluminum works real good for removing lots of metal at one time to remove a little bit less metal you'd go down to a smaller flute like this where the blades are a little bit smaller and again here's another single cut right here where they even smaller yet and of course there's different lengths in different shapes for getting into deepen or you know getting too close to the edges or anything like that but if you use a cross cut on aluminum sometimes I'll even do that just to remove a little bit of metal but it tends to gum up the blades and you're constantly trying to clean the blades out so really you want the right right burr or a bit here right carbide bit for the right job and the single cuts are for aluminum the cross cuts are for cast iron then we go down here we have a cartridge roll this is just a sanding disc right here this is for when you're done roughing everything out and getting everything pre in shape that you want you finish it up with a sanding disc and these just slip onto the arbor right here they squeeze on and squeeze off right here they just slip on and they self squeezed because they're tapered right here and what these do is they just take off a little tiny imperfections and give it the finish that you want if in fact you are gonna polish your exhaust ports and you're gonna have a high revving high horsepower engine we would use a cross buff and it's basically scotch-brite type of a material there that just screws onto a onto an arbor right here and it just polishes what what this sanding just couldn't get off this polish is the remainder of the way and takes off very little material but just gives it a really nice Sheen and that's a good thing to do a thing not to do this this is not a porting tool okay this is a drill don't use a drill on a grinding stone you're not gonna get anywhere you're gonna be there all day you're going to tear up a set of heads it's not worth it I know a lot of you probably have at home I've seen guys trying port heads with drills all you do is burn the drill out and just ruin a set of heads die grandeurs are cheap you can buy one of these things for as little as 20 bucks an expensive one 275 bucks it's cheaper than this drill right here so don't burn up an expensive cordless or power drill when a die grinder lasting forever I mean they go I've used these particular die granters right here especially this one I've had for like 20 years and it's still going and I've got three or four of these that I use and I don't think I've ever replaced them where a drill you're not gonna get through one set it heads before you burn that thing out so try and use the right tools for the right parts and doing the right job and you'll get a good job out of it all right I'm gonna show you how to pour it ahead here first thing you want to do is start off with a junk head like this one right here don't don't do one of your good heads if you bought a brand new one or or you're gonna use a head that you're gonna use on your car for the first time it's probably not a good idea because if you remove a little too much metal you can't go back so it's better to practice on something that's just an old junk head and go to your wrecking yard just get one or almost nothing first thing you want to know to when you're getting ready to port this is where we're in this area the shop right here this is our dirty areas our fabrication area where we weld and grind and do whatever you want to do the same thing in your little garage or your shop metal flies everywhere from the die grinders I mean they're spinning at about 15 to 20,000 rpm and it throws metal in places that you wouldn't imagine metal can get into so do it in a dirty area don't do it in a clean area near your open motors or anything like that first thing you want to do though when you're porting is pick a gasket we're gonna start with the exhaust side right here and pick a gasket that matches your headers are fairly close to the header shape on the on the ports usually they're kind of a square like this this is a Philip Rowe 1404 at the end of the series we're gonna have a whole series of numbers for the head casting numbers gasket numbers to use and stuff so be sure to check at the end here you it will give you all the numbers to look for this is a 1404 though it's very common very common shape all you really want to do is just set it on here I like to use a couple of bolts here just to drop it on that helps hold it in place just like so just like so here that holds it in place there so you can get your hands for free just take a scribe and what you want to be sure is that you're centered on the bolt holes right here you don't want to have it down you don't want to have it up or anything like that and just scribe the hole right around where you want to go right here and do it on each port right here all the way across and that will give you an idea of where you're gonna cut the head now you'll notice too I'll do a couple of them here for you just so we can see what it looks like when we're done here there we go you'll notice here you can see the material that needs to be removed I mean here's the gasket area right here and here's how much metal you know that needs to be removed to match this this gasket right here this is what we call gasket matching or port matching because we're matching the port to the gasket which hopefully the gasket matches the headers it doesn't look like a lot of material needs to be removed but just keep this in mind going from a 194 valve to a 202 valve that's only a few thousandths of an inch you know it's not a whole lot it's not like it's a quarter inch difference or an eighth of an inch difference or so so same thing with here you know that's maybe an eighth of an inch of metal right there that's that's more than a difference between valve size going from a medium sized valve to a fairly large valve and a lot of people don't blanket putting bigger valves in their heads well it's same thing with here that's a lot of material to be removed that's that increases flow by quite a bit so let's take a peek at this what it looks like right here just to show you the scribe marks on the exhaust side here I'll pull the little bolts out now if you look close you can see the scribe marks right here right as they go around right there that's where we're going to take a die grinder and cut right on out to and porting is not cutting just from a little edge right here out here we're not trying to make a funnel with this okay at all what we're trying to do is shape the hole port inward so the hole port is that size funneling does nothing I mean it still has to go from the small side right on out okay and that's that's not what we're trying to achieve here that's not going to get you any more flow what's going to get you more flow is to shape the entire port on inside right on down if you're going to port match even just minorly you at least need to go in Oh an inch okay some people say a half inch half inch isn't really enough that's too steep of an angle air is not going to come out and all sudden jump out like this and go into the headers that's that's not the way flow works it needs to make a smooth transition but that's how that's where we're going to cut the the metal off the head let's do this let's flip this over we're gonna do the same thing to this side right here which is the intake side now mind you I'm using stands right here you can just put a head on on a bench and just use a piece of wood underneath it a 2x4 or a 4x4 and block it up to get whatever angle you want or you can buy some head stands like these just some universal head stands they're not real expensive and most of the parts suppliers and performance warehouses they carry these you can order those so let's look here now this is a fill Pro 1205 gasket it's a medium sized race gasket it's not big but it's not small it's certainly bigger than a stock port so we're gonna look at right here I'm gonna put it on like so again we'll take a couple of bolts just to help hold it in place just to give you an idea of the port size difference here and mind you again it's not how big the ports are it's the shape okay sometimes you're not only trying to increase flow sometimes you're trying to increase velocity to remember velocity will make flow so if you can increase the velocity sometimes that's just as good or better than increasing the size of the of the port to increase the flow so if we look here you can see right here there's quite a bit of material that can be removed off of here we got these centered on the bolt holes right here and hold that flat you can see right in this area here there's quite a bit of material let me let me scribe this out here just going to hold it tight go around it right here with a scribe and this will give us the idea where we're gonna pour it on this thing try and hold the gasket tight because if you move it around you're gonna get an incorrect scribe mark and you'll be cutting in the wrong area here let's go in here right around there we go let's pull this off right here this will just give you an idea of how would the size difference and how big we need to go on this to match the gasket so if we look we can see the scribe mark just not they're not very prominent but you can just see it right there the line runs down right over here now on porting this is what you need to know of course the heads upside down so this is the roof this area right here is the most important area the floor isn't a whole lot I mean I'm sure you've heard of raised port heads or high port heads they raise the ports because all the flow and velocity is usually up along the roof and the high speed area the floor doesn't really do a lot in fact some people raise the floor they'll put epoxy or they'll weld on aluminum heads they'll TIG weld down here and raise the floor up a little bit and then and then what they do is work on the roof line area so on the floor you don't need to pay too much of attention but the roofing area you certainly want to here's the scribe Mark's right here so this is where this head would be cut out at and again we'd want to go in at least an inch to port match this if we're gonna do a full port job of course we go all the way down in and blend the whole thing to the same size but just a good transition about an inch in will do the job for you and usually a port match on an intake from an intake manifold to a to a head it's worth anywhere from 10 to 20 horsepower on average of course some might make five horsepower so I might get 25 it depends on how bad the natural shape of the ports are when you start and not every engine is the same it also depends on the cubic inches at the motor I mean if it was a 283 Chevy here you're only gonna get so much horsepower out of it but if it was a 434 or a 450 for a monster stroker like what we build a 454 small-block it's a big cubic inch motor of course you're going to get a different gain out of that there might be a 25 horsepower a difference but that's where we're gonna cut it and we'll go to cutting next here alright before we get started as a couple little quick things you need to know here first thing you know the die grinder got to be careful with these these bits are sharp and these do spin at about 20,000 rpm second thing is remember we talked about before on the bits this is a crosscut bit which is designed for cast iron this right here is a single cut bit which is for aluminum you don't want to use one of these on cast iron because it'll dull it immediately so you want to make sure you have a crosscut bit right here second thing is a safety you want to make sure you wear eye protection and face protection I wear prescription glasses with tempered lenses so I usually don't wear the extra safety glasses I already have them on but you do want a little bit of lung protection grinding these it's not the way to get your daily iron okay listen it's not good if you do a lot of it it's just filling your lungs up with iron and that's that's not a good thing so you want a little protection right here and of course i happen to have mine right here so what we're going to do is take a peek at the port right here and we're going to do a little grinding and what we're basically going to do is start just shaping the port a little bit right on out to the scribe line here so we're going to get right in here and just just keep a light grip on the dye grinder and just get right on in here and just give it a give it a blast here here we go if you look close here I've already come right on in just to the edge I'll get right on in here all right now I'm right along the edge right here I'm right at the line and that's fine but we're funneled in so now what we want to do that that shape is work the inside now to match that so just be careful you don't go beyond that point and again just keep a nice light grip you can use your hands and you know any motion you like I'd like the 90-degree angle grinders like this some people like straight ones I don't like to have my hands like this this is more of a relaxed position but we're just gonna work on the inside now right on inside here you know well I think about it let me tell you something here too you want to keep the bit moving at all times don't just hold it in a corner around one place because you're just gonna make a divot that's gonna be really hard to get out if you keep the bit moving it'll keep the metal being removed in a smooth transition or in a smooth way if you hold the bit in one place it's gonna dig a hole and they're really hard to smooth back out another thing is plan on being here for a while porting takes time it's grueling work but it pays off in the end I mean the horsepower gains are pretty substantial but on a cast-iron head like this this is the worst to do is cast-iron it's going to take you anywhere from Oh to three hours on a head just to do a gasket match on a head on up to eight or ten hours to do a full port job it's not unheard of to get Oh anywhere from 15 to 20 hours into a set of heads to do a good port job on them but just keep at it do a little at a time and you'll do real good with it okay here's a different head right here this one is already done so we can see right here this is what the factory port looked like it's the same casting numbers the last head we were doing so it's exact same head this is a nun ported one right here and this is one done exactly to the same gasket the 1404 fill Pro that I showed you and this is what it'll look like when it's done this one's done quite a ways down inside there and it's all finished off so when you do a good job this is what it should look like in the end all right when you're done with the exhaust side you can start on the intake side of course you can start an inside you want whatever your whatever your preference is but we're gonna do the intake side now as you can see right here here's our scribe lines you can see pretty clearly right there and again this heads upside down so this is the roof area at the bottom here because the head is upside down this is a side we really want to pay attention to this is the high-velocity side here up on the roof line here so again we're gonna just put our little lung protection on here and I already have eye protection on so we're gonna get in here and just kind of shape where we where we need to cut right against the line here here we go okay if you look real close here grab a little pointer so you can see I've already cut it right out to the edge of the line didn't take that long but we have this funnel shape here it's now just working its way in so the port inside here is still small so just because we've cut it up to that line doesn't mean anything at the moment you're not going to gain anything by that so we need to blend it inside so it makes that smooth transit transit again for the air flow to go from the intake manifold into the head port here and then to work its way down through the valve and into the combustion chamber so we still need to blend inside there so we'll go to that next here all right so that looks pretty good right here we're right up against the edge righty with against the lines right here nice and straight and smooth and you can see that I've gone in about an inch here which is good like I said we don't want to do that first quarter inch or so that does nothing that just makes a little sharp edged funnel and that's not what we're trying to do here smooth transition a smooth airflow you know we don't want any abrupt changes inside the runners here so I've gone in about an inch right here it's shaped pretty nicely that's real good that's what we want to do to all these one thing I want to point out here small-block Chevy heads of course this is upside down but there are is a bolt hole right here which holds the valve cover on there's one two and then on the other side three four when you're cutting on this edge right here there is a bump right here a boss area that's cast into the head it's not uncommon to cut into the bolt hole area into the threads all is not lost that's okay there will be a bolt in there you can put a little thread sealer on that and that's okay so it is common sometimes on some head castings to actually cut into the valve cover bolt holes but that's alright alright well here's a head that's finished off here I'll show you what the intake runners look like of course this is again the same casting members the junk head we're using so it's pretty well identical so this intake port right here hasn't been touched this is what it looks like as cast just like the other one was and here's the one that we finished off and it's not not that much bigger but it's a little bit bigger and it's definitely more symmetrically shaped and smoothed off and blended inside we should just help increase the air flow and velocity which is what we're after you can see I went down pretty deep inside here which is good I mean that's the whole idea we want to make a smooth transition for the air to go and that's the whole object of this speaking of getting down in there let me show you what we've done here you know the bits we normally use are just a short little bit like this there are longer bits that we can use such as this that help you get down deeper inside there you know when you're when it's on the grinder you can get it right down in there and get as far in as you want a lot of times when they're just gasket matching that's not necessary just an inch or so in is fine if you can go two inches in and you have the time to do that that's even better yet but at least an inch is good that'll do that and then to finish off we use these right here this gives it a nice finish these are called cartridge rolls this one's slightly used here's one that's brand-new right here and what it does they're just standing disks is all it is and what it does is these just come off they just screw on and off of this arbor right here you put another one on give it a little twist there put it in the die grinder and you can work it around in there and this takes off just a little bit of material not a whole lot but it just gives it a finish that's real nice and again we do not polish intake runners like this in takes you certainly don't if you polish it all you're gonna do is beat up the gas it's going to form droplets liquefied gas does not burn atomized gas burns so you do not want to polish the intake runners you want them with a slight texture to them and that keeps the the air fuel mixture in a atomized state all right now we're gonna be in the bowl area which is behind the valve you know a lot of people think that the intake runner or the intake port and exhaust port is where the power is at and that's really couldn't be further from the truth there is a little bit of horse power hidden like I said for gasket matching and stuff like that but really where the power is all that is in the bowl area what we call the area behind the valve or the pocket area some people call it pocket porting or bowl blending that's really where it's at and I'll show you why this head right here has been fitted with hard seats already these are tungsten steel seats or a hard seat that we can use for unleaded gas it also allows us to put a larger valve inside there let me show you something here you know this is the seat area right here on the edge and as you can see inside here where we've taken a cutter on the mill to install the seats there is a large lip inside here because this the valve is going to be larger the pocket here isn't and let me show you here what I'm talking about this little caliper set here doesn't fit in there that's barely fitting but look at the valve size that's a huge difference that's at least an eighth of an inch difference right there so there's no sense in going from a 11.50 inch exhaust valve to a 1.60 inch on like these what we call 1:50 valve to a 160 when you haven't done anything inside here because you you might have increased the valve size but you haven't increased the flows capacity or the flow capabilities inside the pocket area here and this is where all the horsepower is hidden right here of course if you're going to do this you definitely want a gasket match it to but you don't want to you don't want to do this and not gasket match it's okay to gasket match and not do this of course you're not gonna get the good power out of it but you don't want to do this in not gasket match so we're gonna do this here I'm gonna show you how to cut this area here but our nose protection on here you know another good idea might be to wear some ear protection these die grantors are noisy they make a lot of sound and when you're here for hours and hours it's gonna wreak havoc on your ears you might want to wear some ear plugs so we're gonna give you an idea what we're gonna cut and here just gonna go in here and just cut this lip area and just make it a smooth transition right on in where it comes out of that illicit exhaust valve here so it can smooth flow smoothly out of the exhaust valve right on out the exhaust port here so we'll cut this here you know one thing too I want to tell you before we continue on here if you notice the valve seats are not cut on this you want to be careful I've been doing this for a couple of decades so I'm pretty good at it but everybody makes mistakes if you notice the valve angles here the valve seats are not cut you definitely don't want to port your heads after the valve seats have been cut because if this thing bites and slips you're going to cut right across the valve seat there and wipe out the seat that was just ground already so you want to do it before you do that and then cut the seats afterwards so don't work backwards against yourself and have to send a head back and have it reground just because you made a little mistake and the diagrams are jumped and ran across the bit like that not a good idea so if you notice these don't have the facings on them yet that's what I wanted to give you show you that there all right so this one's getting pretty well done here let me just kind of give you an idea where we're at now these are the same calipers that we had before and you can see before they wouldn't fit in there now they fit in real nice it's just a smooth transition what you want to do on these you want to pay attention to the short side radius right here make sure it's a nice smooth blend and the high velocity side here is the roof line just like on the intake runners the exhaust runners are the same thing the roof line is where the high velocity air is going in it's very similar I mean air flow is very similar so like you ever see ice skaters on an ice rink where they got someone that stops in the middle and they have a whole line of people and they go in a big circle and everybody in the outside they go so fast they fly off that's because that's the outside area well the same thing with with runners the short size the slow side but for the air to keep going that the outside is really a higher velocity area they're very same thing inside of ports here so the short side you want to make sure there's a real nice radius and then a high side is the high velocity side so it's why some ports have raised runners or rounded roofs and flat floors and stuff like that there's many different shapes there is no one perfect shape if you look at a Top Fuel er the exhaust ports are Square and intake ports are pretty rectangular you look at other motors like the famed boss motors at Boss 302s and stuff like that they're big oval ports just depends on what you're doing there let's get in here and we'll go back to grind in here and we'll go to the next step alright that's about as far as we're gonna get on that it's a nice smooth area there it's going to be a nice transition from the valve seat right on up in and out the port now we need to do the intake side here now there's different types and styles of bits I showed you different lengths before or we have a short one and a long one there's also different shapes they call these a tree sometimes sometimes they call these an olive or an oval there are round ones also just like this different shapes were getting into different areas I've been using this shape bit right here which is pretty common another common one right here is the olive shape like this it's just for getting into rounding off different areas so I'm going to do the intake run right now so I'm going to change bits some people like short bits some people like the longer bits sometimes it's easier to use one than than it is the other I'm gonna go ahead and use the long one here so I can get a reach down inside this intake port a little bit better and or the bowl area here a little bit better so I'm gonna do the same thing that I just did to the exhaust right there we're just gonna make a smooth blend right here we're gonna try and take this lip out and I'll try and show you this here what we're talking about here is the valve seat area and as you can see it it next way down in here there's a lip there's almost a quarter inch of material there that can be removed to make a smooth transition as it comes down the runner right into the valve area here so we're gonna take all this metal out right here just to make a nice smooth blend so we don't get a funnel effect or anything like that just a nice smooth blend so I've got the new bit on here I've got my protection on here we go alright well that looks pretty good in here remember I said keep the bit moving don't hold it in one spot you get a nice smooth finish right here and again smoothness is not what we're looking for but a smooth transition is what we're looking for so right here we can see give you a little pointer here now the lips are gone it's just a nice smooth transition for the air & fuel mixture to come right on in and come right on in and fill the combustion chamber let's look right on over this side here here's what we had to start with you can see it man there's at least a quarter inch of material right there that's just blocking the fuel air mixture and directing the air at the center of the valve well the center of the valve is solid I mean that's not where the air and fuel flow at flows from the edge this is the seat area right here so we want to try and direct it towards the seat the seat facing area to fill the cylinder so all that material there we moved all right here's the finished head again it was the same casting numbers as the junk head we're using so let's look right here here's what we started with this is just a unported set of owl seats right here you can see the lips that we had inside here that was a whole idea of cutting that out of there we come over here these are the ones that are finished off and you can see there's a big difference between the unported ones and the ported ones and again this is where the whole hidden horsepower is at nice smooth transitions very nice smooth transition on a short radius side the high velocity sides the back side member the roof and it comes down the back makes a real high velocity high flow side this is all smooth transition now we've gone in and cut down inside here the valve guide area a little bit rounded that off open the sides a little bit in fact if we come over here this is the one that's completely finished off we've gone as far on this one to is to take a cartridge roll like this right here that right there and sanded the inside of the combustion chamber there just to get hot spots off the stippling and the little ridges and Peaks that are inside a combustion chamber just from the natural casting texture those can become hot spots and by some people call this polishing it's not really polished it's just deep bird by deburring it it just takes any hot spots off or anything so which could cause detonation or things like that and a really high horsepower high compression motor but again the whole bold area is done both on intake and exhaust very smooth transitions just a good way for a fuel in air to flow in and hot gas is to get out and it's the whole object of making horsepower get it in bang it get it back out and big horsepower so this is what we should look like when we're done okay what we have here is your typical aluminum manifold it's a Edelbrock Victor jr. great manifold for medium to medium high performance motors anything from 350 to on up to about 500 horsepower just wanted to let you know you know when you take a performance manifold like this out of the box there figuring that you're gonna need to port these I mean this is a race manifold okay so they make the ports small on these in fact let me give you an idea right here this is your typical race gasket it's a fellow Pro 1206 and we drop this on here you can see that quite a bit of meat needs to be removed out of this area right here there's that's pretty small this is the size of the heads most performance heads that are designed for this type of an intake manifold have this size port on them so you go taking this manifold out of the box thinking you're gonna get an extra 20 horsepower or something like that you're fooling yourself because it's not cut yet you need to cut them first and you can see that's a lot of meat right there and again if you put it in terms of like valve size man going from a 194 valve to a 202 valve is less size difference than what's right here and you're talking about not just this side you're talking about the roof the floor the sides and everything I mean that's that's a lot of area times that by 8 cylinders that's a lot of horsepower that you're losing right there so you can't just take one out of the box and expect to put it on and make horsepower I'll show you one other thing right here too before we start this is the plenum area this is an open clean a manifold right here okay we're working to call a 360 degree manifold because it's 360 degrees of a very right there there's no divider don't mess with the planning area when you're porting that's that's really a no-no you can go in and just take a little casting flash out of there if you want but don't don't go crazy on a plenum area these are really touchy and if you get in there and you knife-edge the the runners right here and stuff like that you're gonna really mess it up don't do that okay so let me show you right here one that that is ported and one that's mediocrity done here's our gasket right here again we'll put this on here this is this is what I see manifolds come in looking like sometimes here's here's the port right here okay and you can see this is really poorly done I see manifolds come in or actually motors come in that someone's ported two heads on or port matched an intake manifold and it looks like this and that's crap okay don't even bother if you're gonna do this don't knowmy waste your time that did absolutely nothing but just screw it up it's you know it didn't go in deep enough it's too steep of a wedge it's not symmetrical I mean it looks like someone took a drill and a stone to it and that's about what will happen if you try and do that don't do that it should look like this this is what it's supposed to be like when it's done a smooth transition it's gone in Oh two inches or so inside the runners in there fits the gasket perfectly I should be a really nice nice size right there it'll match the heads perfectly and that's what we're what we're after when we're doing this I'll show you how to do that next here alright well here's our gasket we have it on here and I showed you how to do that before here's a couple of bolts these have nuts on the back side because the intake manifolds are not threaded so put a nut on the back side what this I do is help hold the gasket in place nothing worse than trying to hold a gasket with your hand you're trying to scribe and a gasket moves and you scribe off where you want to be so just put a couple of bolts in there to hold it in place you can still hold it down with your fingers and just take a scribe like this and just trace it around trace around the gasket this is exactly what we're looking for here let's go right around the port this is where we're going to end up cutting to to this point right here I'll do both sides here and again allow yourself plenty of time this this is not going to happen overnight to do a intake manifold it takes a couple hours an hour and a half to two hours to do a good job on a manifold of course I've been doing this a real long time and I've probably done hundreds of manifolds and too many heads I mean more heads than I care to remember but as you get better at this and time goes on it'll go faster you'll get a little routine down that works for you and like I said before everybody does things their own way I mean some shops might do this a little different that's fine this is the way we do it and we've been doing it a long time and it's a pretty common way of doing things but as with anything and anything else I've shown you in this in this series here degree in a can or finding top dead center or this or that everything has its little differences between one shop and another this is pretty common stuff though and I'm trying to show you the easiest way to do stuff that is what I call bang for the buck more bang for the buck for you less time-consuming and just to get you down the road and get you some good horsepower so here we have it right here it's scribed up and I'll pull this off and be back in a second I'll show you what it looks like after this okay and here we have it with the gasket removed and of course here's our scribe marks right here as you can see right on in so we're gonna take all this material off right here again that you know that might not look like a lot to some of you but really that's quite a bit and again you times this right here this area here this area here and a little bit on the inside times eight other cylinders that's quite a bit of horsepower like I said before pork matching an intake like this can be Oh anywhere from 10 to 15 horsepower sometimes as much as 20 horsepower depending on the displacement of the motor and how bad off it was to begin with so we're gonna cut that there again we're gonna use a this is aluminum so we're gonna use a single fluted bit this is a pretty large flute right here for rough cutting it takes a big bite out got to be careful of these things right here because they can they tend to grab and jump so you want to kind of get a firmer grip on this one what I'm gonna do is on this side here I'm going to cut the really bad looking one out here it's already scribed to the same size so we're gonna cut it on this side here and and get it all shaped and nice for you another thing that I can't emphasize enough eye protection again I wear prescription glasses and so I I tend to not wear extra glasses on top of these because it's hard to see and nose protection a little lung protection here and you probably want to wear some ear protection these make quite a bit of noise a head is more of a solid chunk of of metal this is a little thinner area here and it's going to sing a little bit so ear protection might be a good idea so we're gonna get on in here I'm gonna try and finish up with someone butchered here okay here we go okay I'm pretty well done hog that out now again this is a pretty pretty big fluted bit right here it's made for taking lots of material out now I'm gonna do a little more finish work on it take a little less material outs we're gonna change bits here okay so we're gonna go to one that's a little less aggressive of a cut and get this thing just about finished off here so I'll pull this off we're gonna go to this one right here that one right there you can see the flutes are a lot smaller it's a different shaped bit it's a little little less aggressive so we'll pop that in here give it a little cinch up and we'll be on our way here before I forget remember keep the bit moving don't hold it in one spot even when you're trying to shape a corner area out don't just hold it there and grind in the corner okay because it's hard to get that divot back out always keep it moving if you're in a corner keep rolling it back and forth like this and that'll get the shape that you're looking for you can do a little bit of back and forth like this up and down again though if you keep doing that or you just hold it in one spot you're just gonna burn a hole into a spot it's gonna be hard to get out of there okay let me kind of give you a little idea here what we're talking about alright let's shift pretty well right now that's about we're right on up to the edge of the scribe line that we wanted to to get out there and now we're gonna do is put a finish on it and I've showed you this before this is a little cartridge roll this will put a nice desired finish on there and again you don't want to polish intake runners at all so we're not going to polish this nothing more annoying than someone saying I got ported and polished heads or whatever insect if they're porta they're ported ok but no one polishes this stuff so don't do that we want to be sure that air has a nice textured finish a slightly textured finish to keep the air fuel atomized as it goes down the runners and into the combustion chamber so we're gonna switch here again we're gonna undo our air here don't try and change bits on a die grinder that's plugged in are gonna do is cut your hand open so always just connect that I'm gonna go here gonna change this bit out and go to the cartridge roll here these come in all kinds of different grits they come in 36 grit 60 grit 80 grit 120 you can change different grits you know this one right here I think it's a 80 grit it's kind of an all-around medium grit to go to it put a decent finish on here so we're gonna go right on in this is real simple doesn't take very long at all I'm gonna finish this up alright well that put a nice finish on there I'll give you an idea here of what we originally started with and what we ended up with here looks a lot nicer here you can see I've gone in probably an inch and a half to two inches here that's a real nice blend gives it an area to go in there this is member this is a 210 cc runner intake manifold so what they do though is when they neck down as we saw when I showed you out of the box they neck them down they're assuming you're going to port it because it's a high-performance motor and hard core high-performance motors usually have ported intakes and heads so they assume you're going to do that so we've done that you can see the difference here from what we started with with someone hacked up right here to a finished product just to give you an idea timewise I probably had between cuts on here when I was doing this to show you the finished right here I probably had about eight minutes in this port right here didn't take that long so you know like I say you're gonna spend maybe an hour and a half to two hours on an intake manifold from start to finish when you're done with this kind of a good idea sometimes to go along and deburr the the area here that meets the gasket sometimes a little rough edge right there you can take the cartridge roll and just touch a little bit or a little deeper next important thing to is wash them out when you're done make sure you really wash this thing out get a brush in there and get all the particles out of here you don't want to just try and do this and then blow-dry it out and put it on the motor because there are particles that'll be stuck in there and they'll end up in the motor and they're gonna get between a piston and a ring and you know wipe a cylinder out or damage a cylinder and that's just not what we want to do another thing to keep in mind when you're porting the whole idea of porting remember is for a smooth transition you know from the intake manifold right on through right into the head and the combustion chamber right on out the exhaust port through the header and right on out smooth transition so we don't want different sizes of runners and and things like that and gaskets and headers the idea is just a one one smooth transition no hard corners or anything like that to go into so again you don't want to take like a 210 CCN take manifold like this and put it on stock heads and you don't want to take a small manifold let me give you an idea like a performer series manifold and put it on Victor jr. heads or dart heads or anything like that any of the great heads that are out there that are aftermarket heads that have large CC runners 200 220 CC runners that's a mismatch you got this you know decent sized carburetor going into this little teeny port runner intake manifold going into big heads probably necking down the little teeny headers or threw in a small exhaust system it all needs to work together and if you get it all to work together and get the proper intake manifold size to the proper size heads and a proper exhaust system your motor make a lot of power and your car is going to go it makes a difference of being fast at the track or not being fast at the track and little simple steps like this I'll get you going a lot faster than the average guy at the track who just took this out bolted on and thinks he's going somewhere and that's pretty much the name of the game on this alright we're here at the flow bench with Mike here this is one of the Ford heads that we talked about earlier segment where I took each combustion chamber and started with a stock set of valves this one's got 351 Windsor valves in it this one has chevy valves and this one right here is ported with unshredded valves and chevy valves and all that in there so we're gonna see the flow characteristics and the difference is on on all the different heads this is a very popular high-end flow band just a super flow 600 sandesh tree standard basically what we're gonna do is measure it at 28 inches of liquid which you'd be watching the scale right here you'll be measuring everything at 28 inches which is an industry standard most people measure heads at 28 that just kind of gives you a run-of-the-mill CFM that most other shops use so we can compare different heads and different flow rates in cubic feet per minute so you'll be seeing the the liquid come up here and it might gonna be taking a reading up here and then we'll calculate it out we can tell you that the different flow ratings at the different lifts we're gonna be testing this head here at 300 400 500 and 600 inch lifts okay or that's three hundred thousand four hundred thousands lift because we want to give you an idea of what a mid lift flow is and what on the high end is and most Street cams open a 500 lifts 550 600 so we're gonna see if these heads flow good up there if they don't flow good so we'll let Mikey take it away here and we'll see what happens alright here's the test results or the flow results of the stock valves and a stock chamber on the factory Ford head and on the intake side that we just did here at 300 left we had 147 point 1 CFM of flow at 400 left we had 1 67.7 at 500 left we had 174 CFM it's not bad and at 600 left we had 170 9.5 but let me point something out here he went ahead and bumped it up to 620 left because that was where the valve finally maxed out at and at 620 it actually dropped it went back down to 179 we lost a half a CFM the reason I want to tell you that is if we had a 600 lift cam on here we would have maxed out at 600 if we had a 620 left that extra 20 thousands all it's doing is beating the hell out of the valve train into valve springs and we wouldn't have gained any flow that's one of the things I want to point out on here why we're testing it at different flow levels and seeing where these heads flow at both CFM wise and where they peak out so we'll give it to Mike right here again we're gonna test the exhaust side and we'll come back and give you the results of that next all right well here's the flow results and cubic feet per minute or CFM on the exhaust side of a stock Ford head this is a small-block Ford head we're talking at 300 lifts 83 CFM that's nothing I mean that's that's really bad at 400 lifts which is your average rv-style cam somewhere is in there 103 CFM there's still nothing I mean that's really low at 500 lift or they call a half inch lift cam 113 CFM that's still real small all the way up to 600 it did flow up to 118 CFM it's got to keep in mind here you're not gonna run a 600 lift cam in a stock head like this he bought him doubt the valve springs would have had coil bind you couldn't get to 600 on a head like this so I'm just giving you comparisons of what they can do but in reality you couldn't get up there anyway you'd be hard-pressed to get 500 500 thousands left out of a stock Ford head like that so even at that 113 CFM is about as maxes we're going to get out of a head like this that ain't very much all right now he's going to test the next chamber here and basically this thing is the same thing it's a stock Ford chamber except we fitted it with 351 Windsor valves which is a 180 for intake and a 150 for exhaust that's that let's see what it does okay the next one we're gonna test here is the same Ford head unported only this chamber here is fitted with chevrolet valves it's got a 194 intake and a 160 exhaust see what it does all right next one we're gonna do here is the end chamber and that's the one where we put the 194 160 Chevrolet valves in but we've ported the intake and the exhaust runners we're using bak kut valves and the combustion chambers unshredded around the valves speaking of on shrouded let me tell you something I spoke about this earlier in the segment about shrouding and shrouded valves and unshredded valves and by going to a bigger valve in a small chamber doesn't mean you're going to get better flow let me give you an example of that just for proof right here where the fat lady sang here she doesn't lie what the deal is this chamber right here had the 184 145 that's a 351 Windsor valves that one on the exhaust side flowed at half inch lift 123 CFM when we came over here and we put the chevy valves in this in the same chamber same untouched chamber but we put a 160 exhaust valve in there at the same lift at half inch lifts it only flowed 116 CFM so that's quite a bit of difference so just by going bigger doesn't mean you're gonna flow better and that's proof positive right there we'll go ahead and have mike test this chamber right here and see what we get on this one all right well my flowdde this last segment of the head here in his last chamber that's the one with the chevy valves at 194 and 160 in it with the ported intake and a ported exhaust now mind you this is not a wild port job this is actually a gasket matched to a stock gasket size but cut all the way out and just shaped inside same in the exhaust ports to a standard header gaskets eyes it's not not a great big one or anything let me just give you the comparisons between the ported with with the good valves in it to the stock one the stock when we started out with on the exam the intake side at 500 left 174 CFM it's not not real great on the exhaust side at 500 lift was a hundred and thirteen CFM not not very good when we go to the ported one right here same thing at a half inch lift we end up with a hundred and ninety eight point six CFM it's pretty good jump so we went from one hundred and seventy-four to one hundred ninety eight point six that's substantial jump right there on the exhaust side we went from one hundred and thirteen CFM to one hundred and forty five point four that's quite a bit of a jump I mean that's more flow into the cylinder more horsepower you can do this at home on your own time just a few hours of porting and a pretty substantial horsepower increase alright well we're gonna check here next on the flow bench is an out-of-the-box Edelbrock Performer rpm head the other reason we're checking this is just to get a baseline on what is a good performance out of the Box head flow compared to the the numbers of a stock one and the numbers of one that's ported so we'll see what this thing flows all right well Mike just blowed this head here and let me just give you the half-inch results because it's pretty substantial on the intake we had two hundred and forty eight point five CFM at five hundred lift that's that's substantial and on the exhaust we had a hundred and sixty six point three CFM let me just give you comparisons on the stock head compared to a stock Ford head that you probably have on your stock 289 or 302 at half-inch on the intake they flow 174 CFM we went up to the ported and the Chevy valves and we got 192 CFM we went up to the Edelbrock rpm heads and we went to 240 8.5 CFM that's a lot I mean that's a no-brainer you get a good quality head out of the box bolted on and it's gonna make power on the exhaust same thing we had 113 CFM on a stock head with the ported and the chevy valves we went right on up to a hundred and forty three point eight CFM and then we jumped right on out to 166 on the Edelbrock heads that's good flow that's good bang for the buck but just keep in mind if you don't have the money to fork out for aluminum set of heads like this you can get good flow and good power out of your stock heads if you do a little porting on them but you've got 60s technology against 2000s technology and really bang for the buck this is where it's at by the time you do the heads do the porting put valves in them guides hard seats all that kind of stuff it's hard to beat an out-of-the-box aluminum head but if you're on a budget nothing wrong with porting and doing a few little tricks and you can get some flow all right what's on the flow bench right now as a small-block Chevy head this is the same head again that we've talked about before or I've done stock valves and a stock chamber Stockport Sun ported to where the next one has stock 194 150 fowls but it's ported well well test that the Nessun right here has a 202 and a 160 valve and it unported then we come down here and this has a 202 and a 160 valve ported so we're gonna test the parameter on this just like we did the Ford head so we'll turn Mike loose here and see what we've got all right we just tested the first stockport here now we're going to come on over and test the second port this one is basically the same valve same everything but it's ported we'll see what this one flows all right well Mike's getting ready here to flow this this particular port right here this chamber right here and this one has two o2 intake and 160 exhaust valve and I've know you we've talked about this before you hear people saying yeah I got 202 heads well this is a head fitted with 202 and 160 valves it's not ported so this one right here is just just a stock port so let's see if the bigger valves are floating it better than the 194 and 160s all right well we're on the last end of the head right here this is the chamber that has the 202 and a 160 in it but it's also ported now mind you it's not a wild port job this is poured into a 12-volt v gasket and just a standard header size gasket over here it's not overly large or anything like that this is what your typical Street Street strip job would be I want to point something out though on this this chamber right back over here we had the 202 and a 160 valve put in it I want to I want to tell you something on the numbers right here just to give you an idea the very first one we tested down here with a stock valves of 194 and 150 it flowed 208 CFM at half inch lift this one with a 202 valve flow 208 CFM at half inch lift and it didn't flow any more than that beyond that at 600 left is still 208 that's what I'm getting at is you hear their wives tales you know I got to have 202 valves or whatever it didn't it didn't make 1 CFM difference just to give you an idea the ported one the ported 194 valve okay now mind you this is a 194 valve the ported one flowed to 20.6 CFM at half inch lift where the 202 and a nun ported flowed 208 so we lost compared to go into a 194 valve so the old wives tales about stuff in 202 s and there and stuff just just doesn't hold any water and the flow bench is shown it here with with the raw proof so let's see what this last one does and we'll see what we get out of it all right well the last step we're gonna check here is a out-of-the-box Edelbrock Performer rpm again you're really good quality street and street strip head we're gonna use this as a baseline just to check against the the last head we did and we'll go ahead and get a test on this and see what Mikey gets out of it and check it against the other head all right well Mike just flowed this aluminum head here I'm gonna give you the numbers on that but let's wait a second I just want to reiterate on one little thing here on the cast iron head on the Stockport with a 194 and 150 valves we're going to use this at a half inch comparison because a lot of the performance cams are at 500 left okay so we're gonna compare this at 500 the stock head flowed 208 CFM on the intake and 136 CFM on the exhaust the one with the 202 valves and the porting and the unsure outing flowed 235 CFM at a half inch on the on the intake and 150 6.6 CFM own exhaust that's pretty good numbers that's not bad for a little bit of homework and backyard grinding let's check this out though we'll go to this head right here that's aluminum head right out of the box we didn't touch it at half inch left flow 253 CFM that's about 23 CFM more than what the ported version of the cast-iron head did and then we go down on the exhaust and a half inch it flowed a hundred and sixty 7.9 CFM that's a really good number for an out-of-the-box head comparatively to the ported head that flowed 150 6.6 so you know out of the box I mean it's hard to beat 2000s technology here for the money these days it's good bang for the buck and like we talked about aluminum before it's lighter it runs colder it's repairable and we talked about all the wives tales before you know but it does not warp and it does not crack and things like that it's hard to beat a good set of heads like these these days but if you if you don't have the money to spring for some of these hey a little bit of grinding and a little bit of port work and we showed you how to do that earlier you can get some pretty decent flow numbers and get a you know some pretty decent horsepower put that to work and you'll be able to up your horsepower and have a little bit of fun with your car all right well that pretty much concludes this segment of our power building video series I hope you learned a lot and I hope we were able to solve some of the mysteries of the valve train for you go out and have some fun you can do this yourself and remember knowledge is

Channel: Malkhaz Kobakhidze

Views: 135,330

Rating: 4.8778305 out of 5

Keywords: Porting, performance tuning

Id: vWm9C2nQR1A

Length: 69min 50sec (4190 seconds)

Published: Sun Nov 17 2013