Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics

I want to clean up the valves it's important to take safety precautions get a face shield for this good idea to have masks and I like to use some tape to wrap around the end of the valve stem it keeps me from marking it up with some of the tools we're going to use here and I go check for a drill here's the drill one of the reasons I like to use a pizza box is because it's real easy just have your work surface here people we're gonna ask while you're cleaning up the valves and what we're gonna use is a bench grinder and I got a wire wheel on here and we're gonna chuck each one of these valves up inside the drill and run it on the wire wheel I'm starting with the exhaust valves because they're the worst the tape is just cheap insurance and provides enough grip to keep you from needing to crush them in the Chuck notice I have a brass wire wheel on my bench grinder this is preferred over steel wheels because it won't damage the valves you're not trying to remove anything from the valve other than rust and scale what you want to clean is a section below the spun welds where the valve stem meets the valve the seat is about in the face of the valve you don't want to grind into the areas around where the valve guides contact the stems if you rough up one of those spots they'll spell bad news for you down the road the drill serves triple duty and then some it gives you easy means of safely holding the part while you're cleaning it it prevents you from spending any length of time cleaning one spot it cuts an immense amount of effort or bleeding that you'd likely go through with most anything else you're not gonna have a valve go flying across the room or mark it up with hand tools while holding it that little bit in the middle of the valve doesn't matter you just need to get the outside edges clean so that the laughing handle will stick to it [Music] this process takes you any longer than two minutes prevailed then you're doing it wrong I cleaned all 16 of them in about 24 minutes this is the easy part some of the steps doing a valve job can be very tedious and I'm not going to cut any of it out I'm just gonna run it between 4x and 32x to respect your time this is part of a valve job you'll never find in your service manual you'll find out how to inspect them and how to measure them but they don't tell you how to clean any of them like new-money these cleaned up beautifully despite what I thought they look like the exhaust valves were the worst and there's nothing wrong with any of these valve seats if I wanted to spend some more time doing anything I'd use Emery cloth on the faces while they were in the drill and clean out the carbon from the recessed part and I also cleaned right up to the edge of where the valve guides contact on the stems but you don't have to it's just gonna come right back the intake valves look brand new they're just standard factory valves and now they're ready to go another round but it's not the valves I'm so much worried about its these rusty pitted seats that have me concerned I put a tiny little brass wire wheel on my dremel flex shaft and went to town if you ever do this follow my lead here grind concentric ly to the seat so you're less likely to cut across the seat and cause a leak try to keep the tool perpendicular to the angle of the seat that you're cleaning don't mash on it let the tool do all the work [Music] one other thing I'd like to talk about product endorsements I don't make any there are products I like to use more on some jobs over others I use what I like some of them are worth more to me and time versus money spent if it's sitting around in the shop it's not a product placement but it leaves me with a responsibility to warn those of you who do what I do those of you who have used it know its value on jobs like this it's not chlorinated it's got much worse stuff in it acetone to lean xylene ethyl benzene it dissolves carbon on contact do not use this and confined spaces without ventilation if you value your reproductive organs central nervous system and your respiratory health this stuff plus a nylon brush is all it takes to make real short work of the combustion chamber then you can quickly bail out and leave the scene while the vapors clear you're very lucky if you ever find this stuff at your local parts store I never do I'm pretty sure it's banned in all of California and many other localities carb cleaner could work for this but it'll take a lot more of it as well as a lot more elbow grease you'll need an oil can and some regular old engine oil doing this dry is a no-no there are other products I really don't care too much for the laughing compound I can find is a one-size-fits-all Permatex compound that works great but the last stuff I used came in little plastic cans and different grips there's a course and a fine and I can't remember the product name but it left glossy shiny seats behind after using the fine grit I liked it there's also this cheap laughing handle which you can find at most any auto parts store you develop a love-hate relationship with these things they're supposed to stick to the valve but once you get one grain of laughing compound on the sealing edge not even the expensive ones like to stick until you clean both surfaces a part of people using chewing gum spray adhesives and more to make them stick but really you're better off just putting up a fight and not letting it win the application and clean up with adhesives and other kinds of tricks that takes time using the lapping handle you can apply force only to the face of the valve evenly and only where it needs to be the result is a flatter straighter seat for both novices and pros alike the technique is as simple as what you're watching you'll hear the valve seats change pitch as they grind down periodically pop the valve against the seat to splat the compound when it starts changing pitch eventually the compound breaks down and leaves you with a smooth seat I rotate the valve 90 degrees each time I pop it to make sure I grind the faces evenly clean both surfaces thoroughly with a cloth and give it a dry pass if the seat squeaks when you spend the valve you're not done with it yet a squeak indicates the seat is still too rough it should be silent when both surfaces are clean and smooth the valve should be able to rotate freely when they're finished another thing to watch out for is the lapping compound by no means do you want this coming between the valve stem and the valve guides it's extremely important to prevent this oil the daylights out of both parts always move to a clean part of your cloth when you're cleaning them and once you're finished thoroughly clean both the valves and the valve stems real and reassemble if that grit gets between those parts it will destroy both of them once you put it in service but you can destroy these parts just lapping the valves if you're not careful if you even suspect contamination clean and real oil the valve and the valve guide see what I mean about love/hate if you're not installing polish develops this thing can be a real pain in here don't lose your patience and break out the drill because of this if you've never done a valve job it's important to do it this way the first time and get a feel for it the results you achieve doing this manually will give you a good idea of what to look for what a lapped foul sounds like and what it feels like there are other methods people use to do a valve job but it's easy to botch the job if you haven't successfully learned this method first there are also people who swear by using a power drill on the valve stem seal side I have many problems with that method it's too easy to put lateral forces on the valve stem and damaged guides it's too easy to pull the valve out of the Chuck and scratch the valve stem there's also a slight amount of play in the stems that can allow you to apply a greater force on one side of the valves face you can't hear the bow seat over the noise of an electric drill you don't get the before and after feel of the seat with a power drill between you and the parts so it's harder to tell when you're done all of these things are bad it saves time and I'm sure it can be mastered but using the right tool in doing this the hard way will produce a better seat every time these rusty seats were left with a drill by a professional and many of the seats were not even some were too narrow if you choose to use the drill method run it in both directions pay close attention to the seat quality and depth and be careful not to wobble the drill at all you want an even consistent surface all the way around both the valve and the bout seat hate on me for bashing the drill method all you want but you're not obligated to do this the old-fashioned way like I am my opinion simply prevents me from endorsing the other method it's something you have to get a feel for and speaking of getting a feel for it I'm gonna shut up now and let you hear the pitch change while I'm lapping the seats let you watch me fight the suction cup every time it comes loose plus I got to go feed caboose while you watch us I'll be right back see that [Laughter] finally once you're finished the valves and the seats are married to each other don't shuffle them around they go in the holes you lap them into you should really do this step it's the last phase of cleanup before reassembly but I couldn't help myself I wanted to know if these pitted seats can be saved as long as there's some seat left to work with there are some oversized valves that can be installed in the factory seats simply by boring out the seats and grinding new faces into them but some valves require installing all new seats it's best to verify this before making your purchase if you have to do that because it can save you a lot of money in machine work these things look much better than I ever thought they would I'm eating my words right now from what I said in the 104 video but really I'm glad it's a whole new set of Valve's plus 20 to 30 dollars to replace each valve seat depending on who you know you can't do that yourself it requires precision boring equipment to remove the seats and an industrial oven and liquid nitrogen to install the new ones it's an expense I'd be willing to make on a head that I have this much time and money invested in already but I'm glad I don't have to I don't even have to replace anything the whole job took 3 hours up to this point I still need to clean the lifters and rocker and to get the head stud holes drilled larger to fit on a six bolts short block but aside from those tasks I could reassemble this head and put it back in service if this is useful to you like and favorite it share it with others and please feel free to share your tips in the comments below

Channel: Jafromobile

Views: 3,143,095

Rating: 4.8675179 out of 5

Keywords: Jafro, Jafromobile, Mitsubishi, Eagle, Plymouth, Eclipse, Talon, Laser, Galant, VR-4, 1g, 2g, cylinder, head, combustion, chamber, 4g63, 4g64, turbo, turbocharger, valve, seat, job, lap, lapping, cleaning, bench, grinder, wire, wheel, permatex, oil, can, valvetrain, train, pitted, seats, inspect, inspection, tech, 6GS, 6GK, 2nd, gen, generation, 1gina2g, 6bolt, 7bolt, 6-bolt, 7-bolt, repair, restore, blueprint, test, do, it, yourself, diy, VFAQ, 1080, 1080HD, HD

Id: 7GEmuQa3dPY

Length: 14min 56sec (896 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 15 2012