Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing

during assembly in the last video I took the Hyundai's head apart to clean out the valve guides and other parts that were contaminated when the old rod bearings failed I found a lot more wear and tear in it than I did in earlier inspections and I'm really glad I took it apart the worst thing I found was seven bad exhaust valves crispy critters were fitted up faces clearly they're not sealing like they should and I've done an awful lot of work to make the bottom half of this engine right so I can't bring myself to bolt it back down without fixing that issue first I have a good used set of valves from the old gsx build but in order for any of them to seal right I also need to do some work to these valve seats chances are they're not round anymore so simply replacing the valves won't be enough to stop them from leaking but before I get into all that I have an opportunity to improve other conditions that plagued the performance and efficiency of the cylinder head it's something I said once before that I wasn't ready to do these are called while you're in there mods and it's where the majority of time and financial investments originate on your project car you might find a twelve dollar gasket goes bad but you spend 10 hours or hundreds of dollars cleaning repairing replacing or improving all of the other parts that it was sandwiched between I really didn't want to have to do any what I'm about to go through on this head but it's already off the car and completely disassembled so this is the only logical opportunity I will see in its near future boosted high compression engines are theoretically prone to knock which is pre ignition of your fuel source knock is relative to the stability of your fuel as a fuel mixture is compressed its volatility increases excessive carbon buildup or sharp protrusions in the combustion chamber can heat soak or cause hot spots these hot spots can affect your fuel mixture by prematurely igniting it if it's volatility threshold is exceeded under compression and some fuels are more resistant to this than others but if this happens prior to your spark plugs firing or before your engine crosses the top dead center at the top of the compression stroke it will quickly melt parts and destroy your rotating assembly engines with higher compression ratios are more prone to this kind of situation than lower compression engines whenever all other variables remain the same so in an effort to eliminate these hot spots to reduce surface area and surface porosity that contributes to heat transfer I want to produce a smooth reflective surface that makes carbon harder to stick to in the first place so I'll be polishing the combustion chambers of this 1.6 liter head there are mixed schools of thought on this topic but it's only mixed because it's a pain in the ass to do it and a lot of people are lazy some claim well carbon builds up anyway so it's a waste of time well they're modern ways to deal with that that don't require disassembling the engine and there's more than enough proof existing already that this works it may not eliminate noch but it will improve the burner of your fuel mixture in the combustion chamber and this leads to higher power output and efficiency as a result of improved timing advanced on this high compression forced induction engine this process will be more beneficial than it would be on anything else in my driveway this car has more than a full point higher of a final compression ratio than my gsx I also have generic cast pistons that will melt more easily than forged pistons will knock should kill my engine dead in a heartbeat so I want to do everything I can to prevent it again I'm doing it while I'm in there since its apart for other reasons already this job doesn't cost me any more than the shop supplies which I already have I know how to do it and my friend Chad won't leave me alone about it so fine let's polish a combustion chambers these tricks don't cost money they only take time your definition of only may vary what you've watched me do so far is grind out the carbon with a steel wire wheel then I moved on to a 120 grit flap wheel after that I switched to a finer 240 grit flat wheel I followed it up with 320 grit wet sanding paper then 400 grit then 600 grit whenever you polish metal no matter what sanding media you use you make two passes crossing the grain on each pass and you'll produce the better finish the surface that creates will take less time and effort to polish for the polishing process I'm using my dremel with a flex shaft attachment felt polishing wheels in black Emery Rouge black Emery roots is a coarse cutting compound that's very aggressive because it contains an abrasive it makes short work of dull aluminum parts quickly producing a bright luster but it will leave fine microscopic scratches on the surface if you want to completely remove those microscopic scratches you would follow this up with white diamond Rouge on a new clean polishing wheel repeat this same process on the other combustion chambers if you run out of something go buy more of it before continuing because changing your tooling or techniques from one to the next will yield uneven inconsistent results it took about an hour to grind the carbon out of the head it took an hour to complete the work with the flap wheels it takes about an hour and a half to sand and polish each combustion chamber add another half hour to each one if you want to use the white diamond Rouge for a mega bling so what you need to be most aware of is that if you're gonna do this yourself you're gonna be here for a while either that or you're paying some machinist for eight to ten hours of labor not to run a machine that makes him a lot more money than he makes polishing a cylinder head this is the reason why outsourcing head work is so expensive it's all about time though many machinists may try to talk you out of getting this kind of treatment done to your cylinder head it's not because there are no performance gains it's because the hourly rate applied to doing this kind of work yields smaller benefits than many of the machines that they could bill you for running they may insist that the carbon buildup will negate any positive effects of spending their time here but carbon buildup doesn't occur immediately and just like how they make tartar control toothpaste there are fuel additives and other means of removing carbon from your engine to help your fuel burn cleaner the NOx suppression characteristics of a polished combustion chamber can be maintained if there is no benefit in polishing a combustion chamber and why do the highest performance cylinder heads all have this treatment done to them this is fairly easy it just takes water sandpaper a rotary tool a little bit of black Rouge and a few different attachments for the rotary tool if you've got eight hours to kill and you own these tools already and everything you see in this entire video will cost you less than 50 bucks in consumable shop supplies it's really not difficult at all unless you're one of those people who just can't sit still and keep your eyes on the prize polishing metal is really a very simple procedure there's just a specific and a time-consuming one it's unfair for you to watch me do this at the speed because it doesn't do justice for your expectations about how long it's gonna take I'm covering eight hours worth of work polishing the combustion chambers alone in a little over seven minutes the longer you spend on each phase of this job the better the shine turns out after you've got some practice at it it becomes an unconscious habit I say habit because it really is addictive once you realize it you can produce a shine like this all by yourself you'll never look at metal the same way ever again you'll start polishing the dumbest crap just because you can doing this job is potentially dangerous because this is one of the places where there are practical reasons for doing this kind of technique aside from just the appearance gains fortunately once it's all bolted back together it won't clash with the unfinished parts inside your engine bay so not seeing it might remove some of the temptation to polish other things if for some reason you do enjoy it don't take pictures of this with your cell phone and go sneak off to look at them or show everybody you know what you did because then you'll know you have a problem speaking of problems this particular casting is just horrible I don't think Mitsubishi cared much about the job they did casting these heads for the Hyundai Elantra I'm pretty sure Hyundai was thrilled with it because it helped them get their automobile brand off the ground back when they couldn't even produce their own engines but I'm not particularly happy with it not at all not for how I'm using it the whole time I spent polishing the combustion chambers left me staring at some pretty unforgivable casting work that's robbing this car of its potential I took my time on the block to measure and correct its flaws and the head deserves no less attention I'm removing the timing cover plates and the intake manifold studs so that I can set the cylinder head upright these anchor studs are easy to remove with a couple of nuts and you've seen me do this to remove studs on several other engines already I'd just like to add that it's nice when you've got an aluminum part in a steel stud because shocking the threads with a little tap of a hammer tends to loosen them up when they get stubborn the thermostat housing has been an eyesore for several videos now I really didn't want to take it off and waste a gasket but it's long overdue to get this thing out of the shot if I didn't have bad valves I wouldn't have spent any time doing this at all I'm leaving all the exhaust studs installed because they let you stand the cylinder head up straight so you can access the intake ports and with both of the intake studs out of the way the cylinder head easily can be set on the middle intake flange nice and secure to access the exhaust port but for most of this job the cylinder head will sit upside-down due to the location of the head oil pressure regulator it needs to be removed if you want this head to sit flat and flush if you don't you'll be chasing this thing all over your workbench since I have a lot of work invested in making the combustion chamber shine I'm using painters tape for multiple reasons here I need to protect the deck surface and the nice shiny surfaces of the combustion chambers you know in baseball when you're chasing a pop fly through the outfield looking up there's a dirt warning track several meters around the outfield fence so that you can feel it with your feet prior to plowing into it the top half of the valve seat is off-limits and the tape is there to alert me that I'm about to run into the proverbial fence it lets me judge how close I'm cutting my work in I'm using a pneumatic die grinder with 80 grit sanding rolls and an extremely short Arbor for beginners here's a better look at my warning track it's not much just two layers of tape I burnish it around the valve seat so that I can see where the seat starts and ends it won't stop cutting tools but it'll take a few seconds to sand through at least and it'll make it adequate for my needs but what should really be staring you in the face is that ridiculous looking casting flash on the left-hand side you could cut yourself on that thing Hyundai didn't take the time to remove it and in 1991 when this thing was cast and probably in our hurry by Mitsubishi you know whose fault is it blame either one what you're looking at is lost horsepower and on a stock engine it wouldn't make much of the difference however I'm pretty sure I'm making about four times what Hyundai ever wanted this head to see so it would be in my best interest to grind that meteor and the entire casting line down flush the other parts look a little bit better but not by much really they're all bad sadly these camera angles don't really do this observation much justice but the bottom and the top and the molds didn't even line up right on this cast and it left some of the intake dividers lumpy and off-centered I'll do my best to contour them round and even again but I currently don't have means of making the match perfectly I don't have flow testing equipment yet my goal here is to make common-sense improvements to something that's already bad just look at the junk under the seats that's right on the fastest flowing transition into the combustion chamber that's where all the benefits are going to do it yourself' port job it's in the contouring of where the casting meets the machining for about 20 bucks you can buy this off the shelf at Harbor Freight I'm sure you can get a better deal with mail order through someone else but it comes to the pair of arbors for your die grinder and a 50 sanding roll assortment of cylinders and cone shapes once enough to do a stage 1 port job but go get to because you can never have too many eighty grits I have a personal vendetta against this 20 year old tag on my dremel it's blocked too many shots already so it's got to go doing this work only requires basic safety gear a dust mask safety glasses and gloves aluminum can stain your skin and you don't want to breathe the dust it creates for a basic do-it-yourself port job just start inside the bowls and carefully blend the backs of the seats into the casting of the cylinder head on the intake side try to spend more time in the bowl area than on the short radius on the exhaust side is just the opposite on every one of the ports spend extra time on the seams along the inside of the runners to ensure a smooth radius match that surface all the way around the bowls and try to remove any humps and protrusions that don't appear and all of the other ports I've got a little bit more to go here because any imperfections that are left in the surface after you're done with the 80-grit will remain throughout all of the other grits that follow you want all of your shaping completed by the end of this cut being consistent from one port to the next is crucial on this job so if you have to change the shape of something in one port you have seven more to do the reasoning for this is that if any one port is larger or flows better than the other ones adjacent to it it will affect your fuel mixture in that port because it will flow a different amount of air my goals here aren't to reshape these intake ports 1/g cylinder heads already have gigantic intake ports none of that is necessary in my case for the most part all I'm doing is eliminating the rough cast blending the seats and smoothing out the casting lines there are areas where I'll spend a little more time and I linger to make a little bit more room but this particular cylinder head will not benefit from enlarging these ports since I'm using a small turbo and I'm not installing bigger valves most of the air flow benefits on my setup will come from the removal of rough textures and outcroppings in the casting turbo camshaft valve and intake manifold selection will all play a significant factor in your port job and it's possible to overdo it on any one of those parts bigger isn't always better your goal should be to match your valves cams head ports and your turbos flow rates together or else you'll end up with an inconsistent power band this car previously made all of its power down and my efforts here should improve mid-range and high-end output at least as far as the little 14b turbo that was on it would allow but as a result of this car being built mostly from stock parts this one doesn't really need to go very far I'll save that port job for another day right now I know at least one person is screaming at their computer screen insisting that I'm doing this wrong they read somewhere that leaving the surface rough and the intake makes air flow better and is better for fuel atomization because of the turbulence it creates while that science has merit if that were law then extrude honing wouldn't work the exact same science states that turbulence slows air flow I have a different philosophy entirely on this topic especially for the cylinder head I don't think rough textures are bad I just don't believe that it's a one-size-fits-all solution to head porting it's certainly more beneficial on a carbureted setup to leave the ports rough but on a fuel-injected setup whose fuel injectors are basically aimed right in front of the backs of the valves it really won't make much of a difference it's a fact that a polished surface reduces turbulence and increases flow whether we're talking about air or water so my own theory is simple to polish and blend the bowls but simply leave the rest of the floor rough it's the short radius side the shortest distance into the combustion chamber from the intake flange it's also what the fuel injectors are aimed at for the walls in the roof I say in them all completely smooth this makes the long radius the fast radius and the short radius the slow radius it should in theory create a natural tumbling effect of airflow that doesn't negatively impact fuel atomization it doesn't permit fuel to pool in the intake and with three polished surfaces it should improve the intake port velocity port velocity is something that this particular 1g cylinder head with oversized intake ports doesn't know a whole lot about here you can see better what I'm talking about this is what mine looks like after the 80 grit pass is complete some light contouring has been done to the dividers and the casting lines are gone the sides in the roof of the port are smooth and the floor is rough up to the point where the transition into the short radius begins the reason why I've smooth the short radius near the valve seat is to encourage the air to turn fast the combustion chamber when the valves are opened most people would stop right here at 80 grit on the intake side done skis that would be fine you can do that most of the benefits of the stage 1 port job have been achieved I'm not stopping here though I've left the floor rough and I feel I'd be making better use of the rough floor if the roof and the bowls were sanded to a much smoother finish that way there's a more drastic difference in the textures and airflow characteristics on opposite sides of the same port so we're going from the 80 grit sanding rolls to the 120 grit and making another pass it's at this point in time we're including the combustion chamber polishing we're at 12 hours of work we're not even halfway done on the port job this is where you start asking yourself what kind of a can you just opened on your personal life you start getting concerned comments on social media wondering if you're okay your eyes blur your head grows weary and you ponder the meaning of life these things are all normal behaviors you must accept them embrace them and realize the punishment you face now at this point of the job will be rewarded with lots of horsepower if you just suck it up keep your eyes focused where they should be and always stay continuously aware of where the Chuck on your die grinder is it cuts and gouges a lot faster than the sanding rolls so you can never be too careful not at least when hours of doing the same thing makes these textures and motions blend together in a mind-numbing pounding of your air compressor begging for mercy this is when you need to relax by the end of one hundred twenty grit on either the intake of the exhaust ports your hardest work is really done you can watch the textures change while using this grit and realize that it takes about a third of the time with each subsequent grit you had to go through with the 80 grit I don't use carbides on the intake side because I find them to be far too aggressive and because 1g intake ports don't really need that kind of treatment doing your contour work with sanding rolls tends to produce smoother end results it just takes a bit longer I think those results versus screwing up are well worth your time well you just I mean look at these Jencks man my life was just made a whole lot easier back when I polished my gsx block nothing like this was available finishing abrasive buffs in 180 and 200 80 grit it's like a tiny little precision scotch brite pad and look they even make purple ones for up to 320 grit I wish they went up to 480 but you can't beat that let's see what these things are all about even though these are easy lock for the new style Dremel so I'm using my 22 year old old-school dremel and flex shaft attachment with this ancient screw Chuck bit and it's a perfect fit another thing it's a perfect fit is an old 4g63 head alignment dowel pin right over the knurled end of my flex shaft to cover up and hide the spinning chuck this way I can't gouge my work if I tried you can't beat that either man it's my lucky day I don't need to listen to my air compressor for several hours the tool I get to use now weighs 6 pounds less and after 40 minutes of drilling to finish all four intake runners the very first course finishing buff finally wears out these things cost money but I'm actually surprised at how tough they are the finish they leave behind has the least amount of machine tracks of any abrasive power tool that I've ever used because these little discs are soft like a sponge 180 grit finish looks fantastic now we're gonna step up to the 280 grit and keep going my dowel pin trick worked perfectly to obscure the Chuck from the park and if you ever try to do something like this deep inside of a runner I recommend you also take measures to hide your Chuck abrasive and cutting rotary tools like to bounce around whenever your being a dumbass and in tight spaces it's inevitable that it would touch down and gouge the part so any metal sleeve that fits tightly around it should protect you if you have a rotary tool you already have the tool you need to cut whatever tube or pipe to make one that fits over it so I don't want to hear any excuses looks like the two hundred eighty grit lasted through all four runners as well one pack of those things was all this took that was less than seven bucks I think it's worth it let's move on to the purple one as these buffs wear down their diameter gets smaller and they reach better into the tighter spaces the harder you press on them the faster they wear and Hoagy suddenly it's an hour later and I'm halfway through the rough cut on the balls stuff happens sorry you missed 32 seconds I'll make it up I promise I had all kinds of difficulty editing this much video we're at 15 hours right here now what was I saying oh yeah the harder you press on them the faster they wear so you're best off getting what you can reach while they're new with light pressure and then go back to the tight spaces after it's worn down that way they'll last you longer you you get farther with them moving on to the medium buf blingin already these things really do all the work for you they're just the right size to fit the ports of these heads and they produce better results than flat wheels here we go with the fine one again so this is what my intake ports look like when I'm done I removed all the rough cast from everything but the floor I did a little bit of shaping around the valve guides I took a little bit of height off the hump but nothing really radical I opened up the transitions around the dividers and I smoothed out the short radius it sounds like I did a lot but I don't consider this to be really anything more than a stage 1 intake port now for the exhaust aside aside from the obvious contrast of what we've been working on for the past 16 hours what's different here is that the ports are narrower and tighter the divider is monstrous on the 1.6 liter non-turbo elantra head it's as if there's a thumb right in the middle of every port but due to the short length of the exhaust runners they're really easy to work with these ports are still loaded full of carbon that didn't wash out with the mineral spirits and it actually helps us see what we're removing right now make sure your dust mask is up to snuff the transition from the seats is really rough and uneven if I installed a larger turbo than what I have on here right now there's just no way that these tiny little exhaust ports can keep up with the demand the one advantage to these exhaust ports being so small is that the escaping gases leave the head with lots of velocity great for spooling at I'll be making some changes to help pull the gases out of the combustion chamber and to help move more air at higher boost levels but first I'm doing something that I didn't do on the intake side I'm gonna use carbides the one you want to use for this is a single cut burr for aluminum if I were going to do a big extreme port job on a cylinder head I'd have a huge collection of these things in different sizes and shapes but for the kind of port job I'm doing this is all I need the first thing I like to do whenever I change out my tooling is to make sure the bit is perfectly centered in the chuck and spins on a true axis at all speeds any deflection and I'll end up all over the port since the exhaust runners are so short the studs aren't in my way this bit happens to have a concave radius and I'm starting out about as deep as the valve guide I'm narrowing the divider and preparing it for knife edging once again it's imperative to remove the same amount evenly on both sides of the divider and to repeated on every port next I flipped a head around facing the other way so I can ensure that I have the divider even from top to bottom that's all I'm doing with the carbides I'll blend it larger with the sanding rolls but I just want to make a low-pressure zone further down the port to help pull exhaust gases through the bowls now it's time to blend the seats of the exhaust ports grind the casting lines and Deever the bowls this is the side of the head where you want to spend more time on the contours of the short radius the reason for this is because of the angle that the air enters and leads the combustion chamber look up the low vel gas factor if you want to learn more about that swirling effect inside the combustion chamber and how it relates to the airflow efficiency sorry gang lost another 29 seconds they're brand new tape defective right out of the box now the bowls are done let's take it before look at the runner I've sanded everything I can reach from the combustion chamber side and now I have to blend it from the exhaust manifold side this is why I said earlier that you can never have too many 80 grit rolls while doing this I'll be both raising the roof towards the end of the port blending it into the long radius of the bowl and widening the floor just past the divider on the short radius this is the way I'm going to improve flow capacity without making drastic changes to the diameter of the exhaust ports slimming the divider strategically lets me increase the port volume without losing much along the lines of exhaust gas velocity it's a subtle change that gradually increases just past the bowls and aside from the small area in front of the divider that's where all my port shaping ends so there you go there's the whole owner bridge Hyundai port job secrets the cats out of the bag a mild head port and polished done to maintain or improve intake and exhaust port velocity the rest of the job is just smoothing out the entire port and I'm gonna put a nice bling on it but it's nothing you haven't seen me doing this video already it's all the same 80 grit rolls then hundred twenty grit rolls inspect your work after every grit to make sure even and then move on here's what the stupid exhaust ports look like after the hundred twenty grid is complete the knife-edge is defined and the runners all match all of my transitions are blended and there's no rough cast left just a few divots and holes uncovered because this head is cast apparently from Swiss cheese aluminium nothing I can or will do about that except for demonstrate how it will be in the final finish once you're happy move on to the Buffs coarse medium fine look now I'm repeating myself you see how boring this is the exhaust ports are smaller and as a result you would think that they wouldn't take as long to do well you would be wrong unless I'm imagining things it seemed even harder to smooth out maybe it's just because I had a little bit more material to remove on the exhaust side it's still produced a great finish with the light you can see that each bowl has a slight little bump just past the seat this is intentional the bump is slightly bigger in diameter than the seat is but I opened the bowl up wider inside the turn just past it that's where the bores for the seats were machined into the casting and it's smaller than it was before but I didn't want to eliminate it completely I didn't want that much wider than the seat either I did this because I don't want the exhaust gases to turn too quickly around the seats and swirl in the port right when the valves open what that hump does is help direct the flow of exhaust gases towards the center of the port I'm gonna blaze through the remaining finishing process because you've seen enough of this already we're coming up on our 24th hour now and polishing is about to begin this little section of video is both the 280 and 300 eighty grit buffs it starts to shine a little bit at the end of the 380 and that's encouraging the port job is done I could stop here but I'm not done yet you know I always have to give it a little something something to make it a Jeffro original well this one turns into a stage one-and-a-half port job I'm going to mirror polish these exhaust runners so the escaping gases have nothing to grab on to also a reflective surface is less capable of transferring heat than a flat one but I'm doing this mostly to make it as smooth as possible I'm only gonna use black Rouge because I don't think the extra time with the white Rouge will really make any difference at all on this head I've got a trick up my sleeve to prevent carbon buildup and keep it shiny after I'm done here but that deserves a whole different video by itself I went through about a dozen polishing wheels and spent three hours on the polishing stage to ensure I got into all the little nooks and crannies and put us right of a finish on this as I can when you load up the polishing wheel and start applying pressure roughcast traps the black Rouge giving it a hot and he civ light quality the friction and abrasion will push the pile of Rouge in front of the wheel and eventually expose bare metal if you overload the wheel with Rouge in it clumps you can use a knife or another sharp flat piece of metal to clean off the wheel this scrapes a fresh surface into the felt and helps it pick up the Rouge on the part a little bit faster but remember that it's the Rouge on the wheel that gets the most work done on the rough stuff sometimes it gets stubborn and keeps building up no matter what you do cleaning the wheel helps in this case just when you think you've got it finished give it another pass unlike what you see me doing here try to use the non abrasive cloth to wipe up the excess Rouge then admire your handiwork [Music] that's quite enough silliness for one video in the Dec text video I showed off Mitsubishi's famous crusty castings this head is the worst case I've handled yet but I'm almost done fixing almost all of its problems I just want to remove all the flash from the seams because some of it is famous for blocking oil flow this head has no shortage of those kinds of problems at all inspect all of the oil return galleries for chunks and clean out whatever you find however you can reach it my carbides aren't long enough to do the oil galleries and I think they're way too clumsy to be playing with around the deck anyway I just have a few little details to grind out before I'm done and with all the casting preparations there's only just a little cleanup to do and then this thing can get a valve job let's take a look at the finished product shall we I'm really happy with how this turned out I think this treatment will provide plenty of gains for this high compression small turbo setup the block is completely assembled and I have a limited amount of time to finish it because of how long this pork chop took the difficult and most time-consuming part is behind us on this build and I have very few details left to iron out at this point I'm just as anxious to be working on other projects as you are to see them I have to confess that this amount of detail will change the direction of this build I know I said many times that it's going together with the same stock parts but I found a lot more damage in there than just the valves and the seats some of those parts can't even be reused I apparently got a little bit carried away and this is the reason why you don't pour it ahead with a good valve job on it you're bound to damage a seat while you're porting even if you covered your chuck and that's all there is to it do your valve job last don't resurface the head first as long as you take precautions like I took in this video and have a steady hand you'll be able to cut new seats without having to replace them I might be able to let valves into this and get them to seal again but there's some rough spots on some of these seats that laughing is never going to remove and fixing the contact area might require so much laughing that the valves get cupped or the seat grinds too wide to meet spec that would prevent them from sealing under spring pressure I don't want a head that's received this much port and polishing work going back together without addressing that first there are some people who have no desire or need to accept this kind of challenge and I know that doesn't apply to any of you who are still watching this if anyone wants their cylinder head ported and polished the supplies aren't really expensive at all if you're already on the tools but people who don't have the tools time or patience will have to pay someone else near or well above a four-digit price tag to do this kind of work some of them might even buy the tools themselves after getting a quote if you're interested in doing this kind of thing these tools pay for themselves the first time you do this and you're useful for so many other things just be aware that you can't do a perfect head port job without a flow bench you can't however clean up what's there and make improvements without ruining the part just take your time or maybe should I say give your time there are many who would never attempt this for fear of screwing something up because they have no idea what they're doing they just haven't seen this video yet click the like favorite and subscribe buttons to help them find it I think they'll like it the whole jobs right here in this one video 30 plus hours of work and a little over 30 minutes I hope we all leave here today stronger and more powerful on our ability I know the Hyundai did I appreciate every last one of you for your time and attention until next time stay tubed you

Channel: Jafromobile

Views: 2,436,066

Rating: 4.8836393 out of 5

Keywords: Cylinder Head Porting, Cylinder Head, combustion, chamber, port, polish, grind, prepare, machine, engine, How-to (Media Genre), Do It Yourself (Website Category), How-to, DIY, 4g63, Mitsubishi, Hyundai, Plymouth, Dodge, Eagle, Talon, Eclipse, Galant, VR-4, Jafro, Jafromobile, Dremel, air tools, DIY grinder, Rouge, Black, Compound, performance, racing, improve, airflow, flow, secret, technical, Lovell

Id: iejDWSQEsqI

Length: 32min 28sec (1948 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 25 2014

Reddit Comments

[u/LordBruceWayne]

Clicked on it and was like man this is a long video then what felt like 5 mins later it was done. Good ass video!

[u/Eshk]

Jafro is definitely one of the best. I've never owned a DSM and probably never will but there's always something to learn from him whatever the topic.

[u/Chrondo157]

Jafro is a treasure.

[u/LookHere_LOOK_LISTEN]

All of his videos are like this too. Just found this channel today, on a Sunday. So looks like my day is set. Figured I'd share to the subreddit.

[u/Crazehen]

Jafro is well known in the DSM community.

[u/Director_Consistent]

That's refreshing.

[u/Catto_Channel]

Jafro is incredibly dry for most of the /r/cars crowd, he doesnt overproduce stuff and presents a very realistic process of his work.

I love his channel, dont own any mitisi's but what he has covered on engine rebuilding is incredibly valuable

[u/TweeksTurbos]

If you like this, LD9user rebuilds a quad 4 and an LD9 4 cyl over a few videos.

[u/_Floriduh_]

Any project binky fans out there? Those guys bring the funk and back it up with the coolest mini build this world has ever seen.