Plane Assembly and Setting

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[Music] now that the chipbreaker preparation and blade sharpening a complete I can begin to put the plane back together and we'll see how it's working now I'm very keen on I live near the sea and rust can be a problem this is just a block of hard wood I have some upholestry fabric stretched across it stapled underneath and I spray this with camellia oil maybe once a fortnight I don't have to do it every day and it puts a nice thin coating on for me without even getting it on my hands no screw back into chipbreaker I'm going to do the routine that I referred to earlier we dropped the chipbreaker onto the blade we slide it back we very carefully slide the chipbreaker onto the blade so as not to damage either the chipbreaker Ridge or the blade edge and begin to bring it into position now I'm going to plane some quite friendly hardwood some beautiful English walnut fine shavings I don't have to go excessively close it's very important to tighten this screw properly all my long courses there was usually a point when somebody would come to me and say my planes broken it's not working anymore and what we usually found was that they'd forgotten to tighten the screw they'd been making adjustments and they were now planing the timber with the jib raiga and that doesn't work very well now I'm very fond of these kind of brushes very good for reaching in and cleaning out any shavings and dust that they might be I tend to back the blade off a little bit I like to hold the Frog surface horizontal there's no danger of this sliding down that slope and blunting itself on the front edge of the throat very carefully ease this in we don't want to blunt the blade before it's installed it's easy to tell that you've engaged the fore and aft adjustment peg it's less easy to tell that the disc on the bottom of the lateral adjust lever has dropped into its slot so sometimes you could be supported up in the air like that so always check that the blade is sitting on the Frog now I might push the blade out a little way here I'm trying to make sure that neither corner is grinding up against the body of the plane here's the lever cap and I don't know if you could sense that but you shouldn't have to struggle with the lever cap now it is in fact the position of this screw which dictates how stiff the lateral adjust and the in-and-out adjust are you want to be able to work them easily without everything being sloppy it's clearly no use at all if the blade moves around during use a piece of white paper makes a nice background for seeing where the blade is you you wind the blade out and so you can see it is a black line and you play with the lateral adjustment and you try to get it and symmetrical and then you can start winding it back into the body now I don't see as well as I used to when I was a young chap and we've certainly had many people here on short courses who don't see very well so someone came up with this brilliant idea of using these thin slivers of wood now the wood is taken right past blade and then moved in gently to the center there was a tiny little shaving taken just there if you're lucky you'll see it but I can also feel it and hear it so that's a very powerful technique for finding the place where the blade the curved blade disappears into the body of the plane now I want similar on the other side and it's very nearly perfect if I want to make tiny adjustments I've taken to using a very small hammer it's rather fun one based on the toffee hammer and made for me by a friend so I think the tiny adjustment there may be gross adjustments are easily made with a lateral defer but small adjusts a tiny hammer is very useful I'm now going to make the blade disappear like that and come to my piece of wood now what I like to do is I've got no shaving at the moment what I like to do is wind the blade out with this finger as I'm moving along there's the backlash the slack point and if you're patient you could end up with a very very fine shaving whether there's enough there to take a full-width shaving I can't tell you yet I think there is look blimey that is about half a thousandth of an inch and what I've learned recently is that something in the region of 12 microns which is a concept I find quite difficult superb this is absolutely fantastic now you don't always want superfine shavings so let's just see if it will take a bit more definitely a bit more and a bit more again I really have no interest in taking it to the maximum limit because the business of taking the shaving just becomes a struggle I'm quite happy to work with the 2018 perhaps if you work soft wood you may want to take more
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Channel: David Charlesworth
Views: 51,307
Rating: 4.9455447 out of 5
Keywords: woodworking, hand planes, sharpening, plane set up
Id: 0KDbwtRJ3Iw
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 7min 50sec (470 seconds)
Published: Tue Apr 10 2018
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