Hand Plane Set Up - IN SEVEN SIMPLE STEPS

[Music] hi everyone in this video I'm going to talk about how I set up my hand planes in seven simple steps flat sole the sole of the plane should be as flat as possible the easiest way I've found to check for flatness is to use some 120 grit abrasive paper on an own flat surface here I'm using a piece of MDF you can stick it down with some spray adhesive if you have some back off the cutting iron so that it's well clear of the mouth it's better to leave the cutting iron fitted rather than taking it out entirely as the tension of the Liebherr cap when the cap and cutting irons are fitted can alter the shape of the sole very slightly draw some lines on the sole with a sharpie pen from one side to the other all the way down the length of the sole then sand the sole and if the pen marks are still visible in some areas that means it's not quite flat so you'll want to do some more sanding if it seems to be badly out of shape then you might want to start with a more aggressive paper like 80 grit which will remove material more quickly before using 120 grit there's really no need to go above 120 grit as that is plenty smooth enough once the sole is flat it's really important to lubricate it which I'll talk about a bit later sharp cutting iron a sharp cutting edge will make the hand plane cut cleaner and be easier to use as they'll be less resistance my method for sharpening is to first flatten and polish the very tip of the back of the cutting iron from edge to edge i lubricate the stones with some soapy water and work my way up from 360 grit to 6000 grit and then hone on a piece of leather charged with some green polishing compound then I fit the cutting iron into a honing guide and sharpen through the grits once more then I remove the cutting iron from the honing guide and polish the cutting edge by hand on the leather strop by this point I can feel a burr along the cutting edge which I remove on the strop I test its sharp using a piece of paper and when it cuts cleanly I know I've got a good cutting edge I'll include links to all the products I use for sharpening in the description box below this video if you are interested in any of them all of the products I use are relatively inexpensive cap iron set once you're cutting iron is nice and sharp you'll want to reattach it to the cap iron also known as chip breaker which is this piece here it's job is to deflect the shavings out through the top of the plane and reduce tear out loosen the screw to adjust it and maneuver it into place being careful not to let it rub against the tip of the cutting iron as that will dull the blade I like to set mine 2 millimeters away from the tip of the cutting iron then tighten the screw to set it you can also flatten the tip of the CAF iron to make sure it makes good contact with the cutting iron which will help prevent chips from getting caught in there [Music] leave a cap setting the lever cap allows you to quickly remove and refit the cap iron and cutting iron at the flick of a lever you'll see that there is an adjustment screw securing it to the plane and that controls how tight the lever mechanism is and also how tight the blade height adjustment knob is to turn which is this part here and you can adjust this until you get it operating just the way you want it I like to set mine so that the adjustment knob can be twisted with one finger which allows me to adjust it quickly and easily blade cutting depth and alignment to set the blade cutting depth using the screw knob on the back I hold the plane right up to one eye aiming it towards a light I close my other eye and sight down the length of the sole turning the knob until I can see just the very tip of the cutting edge protruding from the mouth if one side is protruding more than the other that no use the alignment lever to angle the blade so that it's level and straight then I back off the blade by one or two turns and give it a try on a piece of wood advancing the blade with each pass until I get a shaving then to test the alignment I first use one side of the blade and then the other and I look for both shavings to be the same thickness and when they are I know my blade is correctly aligned mouth width and frog adjustment the distance between the front of the mouth and the cutting iron can be increased or decreased depending on how much material you want to remove with the plane to adjust it remove the lever cap cap iron and cutting iron this bus of the plane is called the Frog there are a couple of screws securing the Frog to the base of the plane loosen those screws and on the back you'll see an adjustment screw at the bottom this can be turned clockwise to advance the Frog or counterclockwise to back it off and make the mouth opening wider then you can secure the Frog to the base again with the screws personally I like to set the distance between the front of the mouth and the cutting iron to two millimeters and that always gives me good results if you find that shavings get caught in the mouth as you're planing and you're having to remove them by hand then that's usually a sign that the opening is too narrow so you'll probably want to open it up a bit lubrication this one is sometimes overlooked but it makes planing so much easier I regularly lubricate the sole of my plane between and during use it makes the playing glowed much easier and takes a lot less effort it also protects the bear missile putts on the plane from rust so I lubricate the sole of the plane besides the cutting iron and the cap iron I either use a lubricating wax or just a bit of regular oil on a piece of cloth but for making the sole of the plane glide smoothly in my opinion you cannot beat a bit of candle wax so if you follow these simple steps you should get good results with a hand plane so you end this video I thought that I would talk through my hand plane collection I only have these three and to be honest 90% of everything that I do is on this one so starting with the biggest one this is a vintage record number five hand plane that I inherited from my grandfather when he passed away I really like the size and weight of this and it's a pleasure to use and that's why I predominantly use this this next one is a number four hand plane and this one doesn't have a brand on it and to be honest I don't remember where I got it from it's probably a really inexpensive model that I picked up from a car boot sale or something like that and they tend to use this one for more rough work when I don't really know whether I might come across a staple or nail in some wood for example [Music] and this one here the smallest of the three is a block plane by Draper and probably used this second most compared with the record and I tend to use this one for beveling edges and things like that as with most block planes you'll see here that the bevel of the cutting iron is facing upwards as opposed to downwards whereas the bevel on the cutting irons on my other hand planes are all beveled down I've got everything I need right here for the weapon as I do and to be honest if these two disappeared I would be quite happy just using the record number five for everything having said that though I would like to upgrade my block plane at some point I'd like to get something along the lines of a record number nine and a half that's it for this one hope you found it useful and thanks for watching [Music]

Channel: Rag 'n' Bone Brown

Views: 284,261

Rating: 4.9203782 out of 5

Keywords: woodwork, rag, 'n', bone, brown, keith, wood, hand plane, hand, plane, set, up, tune, tune up, set up, stanley, record, draper, bailey, bevel, down, bench, bench plane, simple, easy, steps, guide, how to, how, to, how to set up a hand plane, hand plane setup, setting up a hand plane, how to set up a plane, set up hand plane, setting up hand plane, how to set up hand plane, setting up a plane, how to set up a wood plane, set up a hand plane, how to set a hand plane, how to set a plane, hand planer

Id: 4EWic5k2Kg8

Length: 7min 26sec (446 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 21 2017