Pitmaster James Woodard Is Bringing Barbecue Back to Oakland — Cooking in America

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(upbeat music) - Everyone's all exercising, making me feel-- (laughter) We're in Oakland. So in the 50s and 60s there was a big migration of African American families that came up from the south up to the west. And with that, Oakland became this scene of barbecue heaven. But as the years went by, all those barbecue joints started to fade off. We'll be going to Smokin Woods Barbecue where James and his family is smoking up Texas-style ribs, momma's mac and cheese, and all of that good stuff, what Oakland used to be. - Hey, how's it going, man? Welcome to Smokin Woods. How you doing? - Good, man. I've been obsessed with barbecue lately. When I heard we're coming to Oakland and we're getting some real barbecue I was excited. What exactly, what do you do at Smokin Woods? - Smokin Woods, I'm the owner of Smokin Woods, we started out catering about six years ago, opened this place up about eight months ago. And here we are. - Smoking up what today? - [James] Some beef ribs. - [Sheldon] Straight up Texas, right? - Straight up Texas. But the treat today is momma V's mac and cheese. She's here today and she's gonna be able to make it from scratch. - There's nothing like mom's touch. - Never had it like mom's touch, it's the best. - Alright, let's do it. Big old slab of-- - Angus beef short rib. So the thing about beef ribs, they're really really tender because of all that fat and marble inside of them. Big nice dinosaur bones. - [Sheldon] Yeah, man. - This is our signature rub. That's magic in here. Don't ask me what's in there, it's magic. (upbeat music) - So from here straight into the smoker? - Here straight to the smoker. And there you have it, we'll let that go for about four and a half, five hours. - [Sheldon] What are you smoking over? - [James] Oak and cherry. - You didn't start off doing barbecue in a spot like this, right? - No I was a corporate guy at first. Grandpa cooked when we were kids, I always watched them use liquid smoke and spray it on stuff. As I got older I tried to learn more about natural wood smoke and then my aunt would always bring these ribs over for us, just dry rub, no sauce. My grandpa never used sauce either. That's kind of how I got into no barbecue sauce at all here. I was in Fresno at first for a while. Being out there, it's a little bit different as far as diversity goes. Came out to Oakland when I was probably, say, about 14, 15 with my aunt and I kind of just stayed here ever since. - You got your brother along with you too. - Got two brothers. So two brothers, so almost family-owned, so it pretty much is family-owned. My older brother got me into catering. Without him, I tell you, I don't know if this could've ever gotten off the ground. He cooks too. It's a competition. (laughter) One of the best pitmasters I've ever seen. My younger brother he's just, he's a monster. I don't know what happened to him, he's like 6'4", he's like six feet and here I am little 5'9" guy, no one in between the two, right? Been great to have the two along for the ride. - [Sheldon] That's awesome. (upbeat music) - This is the woman of the hour, my mom. She has her famous mac and cheese. This is the recipe that we use for all of our events. - You got three hungry boys, huh? - Yep, I sure do. - You said you learned this from your mother. Where were they from? - My mother is from Louisiana, my father's from Mississippi, but they met in Fresno. - This something that you grew up with? - It is. We tried to imitate, but it's nothing like the source. - Alright momma, you've got to show me how it's done. Little bit of mozzarella. - Little bit. Little bit of sharp. You're so sweet with it. (laughter) - You just wanna just throw it. - I was finna say, it's like-- - Pepper jack? - Pepper jack. The cheese sauce, you can just pour it on there. Okay now you're gonna take the mild. One thing my boys like is cheese. - Telling him to put a little bit more? - Yeah, you need to put, yeah. - You being sweet with the cheese. - You're being very sweet with the cheese. (laughter) - You guys always cook together as a family? - The oldest one was the one that took the lead. I was surprised when James started cooking. - I know, right? - Brotherly competition, I get that. - He's the one standing over there. (laughter) All three of them cook. I could die in peace. (laughter) - Let's see what it's all about. Smells great. Ooh. That looks good. Momma V's mac and cheese. (upbeat music) (laughter) I'm gonna be right over here. That's amazing. - Good, good, I'm glad you liked it. - Beef rib time? - Beef rib time. (upbeat music) - [Sheldon] Ooh. Can see it kind of pulled away from the bone. - They key there is, see how it's jello? - Yeah, yeah, yeah. All those hours of slow cooking. (upbeat music) There you go, beautiful smoke ring on top of it. Can see all the fat that's in between. This is definitely my favorite cut of barbecue. - The beef rib, yeah? - The beef rib. - Mine too. - Let's go sit down with some beers, man. - [James] Let's do it. (upbeat music) - Barbecue has taken off throughout this country. You see it on television, your pitmasters have become rock stars. Even though it started in the black community, you don't see that much black pitmasters anymore. - A lot of phone calls we get, we get, "Are you black-owned? Oh I'll be there right now. "I'll be there right now." They're so excited because it's black-owned. It's just nice to be able to be recognized as a black business, black-owned business, by all walks of life, by all cultures. They say that we love that you're here, please don't go anywhere, your food's amazing. It's not a sport, it's more of a craft. And for me and my family we grew up barbecuing. Our family-style of flavor to your home. And that's what it's about, small businesses in Oakland giving you an experience. My dad's from Texas so it was kind of implanted in us to cook southern food. So now we're California-grown, but southern-born. What you gonna go to first? - Straight to the, I've been waiting for the ribs for hours. - Beef rib. Just pulls right apart, don't it? - Pulls right off the bone like that. - Cheers. - Oh cheers, man. (upbeat music) Perfect amount of smoke, light seasoning over the top of it. It literally just like melts in your mouth. That's what's great about beef ribs, right? That fat that runs right through it. - Definitely. You get a chance to try that sweet heat sauce? Californians love their barbecue sauce too, but give that a try. - Super light, the perfect sweetness, and then the heat in the background. - There you go. - Not at first. At least you get to taste the meat first and then that heat comes up in the back. - Momma V's mac and cheese, huh? - That's how mac and cheese is supposed to taste. Keep your guys' truffle oils and your fancy-- - Yeah, too much. Just need a little bit of just cheese. Barbecue has kind of changed, over the years Oakland has changed. A lot of people moving in, a lot of people moving out. So I grew up with Flint's. Flint's Barbecue was the staple in Oakland. A lot of people who originated barbecue in Oakland were predominantly African American. Over the years I watched Flint's kind of just disappear. Looking back I'm thinking how you see barbecue back when I was a little kid. No barbecue sauce and now days that's kind of all we have. For us with a lot of these big chains coming in and no barbecue being around, stepped up and said we're gonna bring back barbecue to Oakland. Like it's mainly just us saying hey we're here, this is what Oakland was about, we're gonna continue this going forward. Bring back just classic barbecue, 100% wood-smoked barbecue. - So what does barbecue mean to you? - Barbecue to me means creating smiles, good food. I mean that because I used to watch my grandpa cook, he'd be like, he would look back and he would laugh at me. Barbecue brings people back, takes people back, it's a different vibe. But I also knew we got together as a family, we all smile. If I can put a smile on your face with my craft, with my food, I did my job, you know what I mean? - We've been through all these different restaurants in Oakland and everyone talks about change and the people coming in, too. But every single one of you guys, you guys are like stand by each other and you guys are standing strong and singing the same song of keeping Oakland Oakland. - Keep Oakland Oakland, that's all, that's what it's about. I mean, 'cause you can, you can allow the change to happen and you can adapt to it in ways that can be positive and ways that can be negative. - The change needs to come from within, right? - Staying here, finding a way to keep that support going and supporting local. You support local your top chefs, your top businesses will stick around. They always will. - Draymond Green to hold onto the ball. - Draymond Green to hold the ball. (laughter) Draymond Green to hold onto the ball. - Cheers, man, thank you for sharing your story. Thank you for repping Oakland. - All the time, yeah. Absolutely, absolutely. (upbeat music) - Elk is not very common, but it's very common to the people who life in Santa Fe. - They go hunting for it, so.
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Channel: Eater
Views: 1,009,197
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: oakland, oakland bbq, barbecue, oakland barbecue, cooking barbecue, barbecue america, american barbecue, bbq, best barbecue america, best barbecue, bay area, bbq pitmasters, beef, barbecue grill, pulled pork, brisket, meat, cooking, barbeque, smoked meat, destination america, barbecue sauce, eater, eater.com, food, restaurant, dining, dish, foodie, chef, food show, sheldon simeon, cooking in america
Id: 5Tpe2Arot6g
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 8min 54sec (534 seconds)
Published: Fri Aug 17 2018
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