Photogrammetry 2 – 3D scanning with just PHONE/CAMERA simpler, better than ever!

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Thanks for the post I have been struggling to achieve photogrammetry but this makes me want to give it another go

👍︎︎ 7 👤︎︎ u/Vaponewb 📅︎︎ Dec 07 2018 🗫︎ replies

Cool, but you still need a NVIDIA CUDA compatible video card right? That eliminates Mac users AFAIK.

👍︎︎ 5 👤︎︎ u/nill0c 📅︎︎ Dec 07 2018 🗫︎ replies

Love Dvořák. The New World Symphony is one of my favorites.

👍︎︎ 4 👤︎︎ u/phinneypat 📅︎︎ Dec 07 2018 🗫︎ replies

Good video! here’s what you need: https://github.com/alicevision/meshroom

👍︎︎ 4 👤︎︎ u/PM_me_fake_b00bs 📅︎︎ Dec 07 2018 🗫︎ replies

Yep, going to give this a try.

👍︎︎ 2 👤︎︎ u/Golluk 📅︎︎ Dec 07 2018 🗫︎ replies

Have to teach Josef to spell Photogrammetry :-)

👍︎︎ 2 👤︎︎ u/CGUERIN101 📅︎︎ Dec 07 2018 🗫︎ replies

Can anyone speak to how this compares with paid solutions? Asking for work.

👍︎︎ 2 👤︎︎ u/ganpachi 📅︎︎ Dec 07 2018 🗫︎ replies

I wonder if the final step (where cuda support is required) could be sent a different system. I have access to systems with nvidia boards in them, but they don't have a way to do easily do remote GUIs. The idea is, get all the photos loaded and do the analysis on my laptop with intel video card, then send all the data to a system with an nvidia card to do the final mesh generation.

👍︎︎ 2 👤︎︎ u/thegoodhusband 📅︎︎ Dec 07 2018 🗫︎ replies

I just installed and ran a very hastily executed scan of a USB stick and I can confirm that it is easy to use and produces pretty good results. I can’t wait to do a proper job!

👍︎︎ 2 👤︎︎ u/ganpachi 📅︎︎ Dec 07 2018 🗫︎ replies
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Creating a 3D model just by taking lots of pictures of a real object? Yes! Photogrammetry is back and it’s easier to use, gives better results and is still completely free You’ve seen our first video about photogrammetry, right? A quick recap. You take pictures of an object from all possible directions, throw them at the photogrammetry software, which tries to estimate the camera positions an creates a “point cloud”, a bunch of 3D points that resemble the object To get a printable mesh you have to triangulate the 3D points In the end, we clean the model a bit, patch all the holes, slice it and we are ready to print! Well, all this sounds really good and simple, but in reality, our original tutorial was quite complex Luckily for us, things have changed and a new player has entered the photogrammetry ring Meet Meshroom Meshroom is free, open-source photogrammetry software with a beautiful UI It handles the underlying framework AliceVision, which is the result of cooperation between multiple universities, labs and a French post-production company The base interaction is about as simple as it gets, drag and drop pictures into the Meshroom window, hit START and wait for the finished model However, with Meshroom you can also Augment reconstruction That means you can add more pictures to already half-finished solution when you notice in the preview that some area could use more detail And even better, with Meshroom you can do Live Reconstruction! In this mode, you repeatedly take a set of pictures, upload them to a folder and they get automatically processed A preview is displayed and you can decide which part of the model needs more detail You then take more pictures and the whole process repeats until you’ve captured the model from all angles But before we get to play with Meshroom, let's go over important steps that you should follow when you're taking pictures for photogrammetry Your smartphone camera will work just fine, these two models were scanned with one But if you have a DSLR, that’s even better If you’ll be using DSLR, crank the aperture to at least 5-6 so that the whole model you’re trying to capture is in focus It’s best to move around the target object in circles, varying the angle and height after each pass During our testing, we often shot 50, 100 or even more pictures to capture every detail It doesn’t take nearly as long as you’d expect It’s really important that you don’t move the object between pictures If there’s people or cars moving near the edge of some pictures, it’s not ideal, but Meshroom can handle it But try to keep these moving elements to minimum The object should make a significant portion of each image and you can take close-up shots to capture delicate details If possible try to avoid hard shadows, taking the pictures outside on a cloudy day is a great way to get even lighting from all sides You can use zoom or even mix pictures from totally different cameras Meshroom is really great in this regard. Can you make a video instead? Yes, but don’t do it. Although technically it is possible to use video rendered into individual images as an input for Meshroom, the quality is much lower compared to a standard image the metadata will be missing and you’ll be inputting hundreds of images Standard photos are simply better What if you took the pictures in front of a perfectly white background and rotated the model between the pictures? This sort of works, but again we do not suggest it The results are simply much worse compared to just walking around the model Ideal targets for photogrammetry have textured or rough surface Capturing glossy surfaces is tricky, but If it’s an option, you can cover them with some powder like flour or with painters tape to avoid reflections Ok, we’re now ready to begin the reconstruction You’re most likely going to use the standard reconstruction when scanning objects outside or when you’re simply away from your PC In this case, let’s assume you already took all of the pictures got home and now you want to reconstruct the 3D model The workflow is really simple Copy all of the pictures to a folder on your hard drive and then drag and drop the folder or the selected images into Meshroom window Save to project to a destination of your liking, otherwise the reconstruction gets stored in a temporary folder. Now you can either hit Start, but what’s better is to right click the Structure from motion node and hit compute Actually let’s quickly talk about these nodes Each one of them corresponds to an important step in the reconstruction, the individual steps are very nicely described on the AliceVision web page You can manually begin a computation of a node and it will automatically compute all nodes before it If you double click a computed node, it will load the result Now that’s why it’s better to start by computing the Structure from motion node Compared to the full reconstruction, this usually doesn’t take long at all and you’ll get the reconstruction preview All pictures that got successfully matched will have a green check mark next to them And you’ll see the estimated camera positions in the 3D view Depending on how well this looks, you can either compute the full reconstruction or if too many pictures got discarded you can augment the reconstruction or fine tune the settings which are very well described on the AliceVision wikipedia The full reconstruction may take a while, the nodes at the bottom will turn green one by one as they complete. You may hit Stop at any time and resume the reconstruction later If you took a lot of pictures it’s not a bad idea to let the reconstruction run overnight Once the full reconstruction finishes you can double click the Texturing node to preview the final mesh You can also right click on any of the completed nodes and select Open folder Even though the output file format is a commonly used Wavefront .obj which can be imported directly to Slic3r You’ll most likely want to do at least some very basic clean-up of the model before printing it The finished model printed from Prusament PLA Silver and Galaxy Black turned out really well, right? Let’s say you’re scanning something at home You took about 60 pictures and the reconstruction is going well Except for one area, which you didn’t capture well, some pictures got discarded and that part of the model is now missing detail With Meshroom, you can simply take more pictures and add them to existing reconstruction It’s essential that you have not moved the object between the individual series of pictures If you have moved it, augmenting the reconstruction will probably be very difficult When creating pictures to fill in a poorly captured area we suggest taking about 5 to 10 photos And you can try to fill multiple areas at once New pictures get matched against the full set of photos That means that adding new pictures may even cause previously discarded images to be successfully matched with the new series Whenever you add a series of pictures to an existing reconstruction a new branch will appear in the Graph editor Again, you only need to compute everything up to the StructureFromMotion node which is usually pretty fast As soon as it turns green, double-click it update the preview When you think you have enough pictures for the final reconstruction Right-click the bottom rightmost node and hit Compute. This is the original model and this is the one printed from Prusament PLA Lipstick Red Like two peas in a pod Live Reconstruction is the most fun way to do photogrammetry Click on View - Live reconstruction to open the setup panel Select a folder to which you’ll be uploading new pictures and the minimum number of images that will be processed at each step. Now hit Start in the Live Reconstruction panel The first series of pictures should include at least 10-20 images and should focus on the general shape of the object, let’s not start by taking close-ups Once you upload the pictures to the selected folder they get automatically processed and added to the reconstruction There is a small catch at the end You’ll have re-link the last StructureFromMotion node to the PrepareDenseScene node. Right click the link and choose Remove And then drag a new link from the bottom most StructureFromMotion to the PrepareDenseScene input Now you can Compute the final mesh. Almost all meshes created by 3D scanning or photogrammetry Will have a hole at the bottom Luckily for us, we need a flat base that could be easily placed on the print bed anyway, so a simple plane cut in Meshmixer, Blender, 3D builder or any other program that you prefer will do Secondly, the scale of the model will be pretty much random, so don’t be surprised when the model is really tiny after import and simply scale it up There is one technique in particular that makes a perfect combo with photogrammetry and that’s sculpting We will make a separate video about in the future but in the meantime feel free to check the tutorials we linked in the description And here’s the final result printed with Prusament PLA Azure Blue We strongly recommend to check the Meshroom wikipedia there’s a lot of information about how to solve some errors you might encounter and what parameters are worth playing with And if you want to contribute, that’s even better, submit a pull request or contact the developers directly by email So are you convinced it’s time to give photogrammetry another chance? Consider subscribing if you enjoyed the video and happy printing
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Channel: Prusa 3D by Josef Prusa
Views: 1,474,136
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: slicer, prusai3, Prusa Slicer, priginal prusa i3 mk3, Joe Prusa, 3D tiskárna, stavebnice, 3d tisk prusa, original prusa i3, 3d tiskárna prusa, Josef Prusa, Prusa i3 MK3, 3D tisk, Prusa MK2, Prusa Research, Prusa 3D printer, Prusa, Prusa i3, multimaterial, multi material, photogrammetry, 3D scanning, Meshroom
Id: 1D0EhSi-vvc
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Length: 10min 33sec (633 seconds)
Published: Fri Dec 07 2018
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