How to clean up 3D scans in Meshmixer

today I'm going to show you how to take this 3d scan and turn it into this [Music] [Music] in a previous video are you Stan old Xbox 360 Kinect sensor with software called skin act 2 3d scan my wife now unfortunately the scans always have a lot of noise and artifacts that need cleaning up before you can produce anything from them in this video I'm going to show you how I use mesh mixes to do just that and then how a 3d printed second one alright let's do this we have our raw scan data from skin X and we've opened it in mesh mixer and you'll notice that it's actually quite a mess now there are functions in schenectady make it watertight and clean it up but I find that a little bit unreliable so mesh mixer is my choice and I'll show you a pretty efficient workflow for getting this ready to 3d print or whatever else you want to do with it first thing we're going to do is come to edit transform and I'm going to rotate this around just to get a more accurate angle of how it would be in real life I'm going to accept that and you'll notice all these dangling bits down here the slow way to do it is to select them all either by brushing or drawing a box around and then pressing X to discard but we'll be here all day for that so let's look at a much faster way to do it first thing we're going to do is to cut off any sections of the model that we don't need and that'll take care of all of these little ones inside I intend to print this as a bust so I'm going to come to plain Pat and then put it in the position that would be normal for a bus nothing like that is five it accepts and I've cut off a great deal of them already there are still some on the inside so to combat this we're going to come up to separate shells it's going to require a little bit thinking time because quite complex geometry you can see that the job is done in our object browser has come up on side and instead of being one piece we actually have 158 pieces so we'll just check that the one we want is the top one and then all these a little bit so we're going to delete very quickly by clicking on number two rolling down to the bottom holding shift clicking and now we can come up to the trashcan and we are left with a single shell excellent okay now at this stage we don't want the grid so it's going to view and turn that off this is going to get in the way and now we get to the very serious job of cleaning up some of this so we have holes in the model that's the first thing we're going to look at how to address and I think the quickest way is to press s4 select square brackets to change your brush and then paint around the edges of such a hole and then the tool that we want is called a race infield or F on the keyboard and it will do a pretty damn good job most of the time of deleting those and then filling in what's in between so if you manage to paint the whole way around something and we'll fill in holes like I just showed you okay ones like this on the top we can see if we look underneath it there's actually mesh facing downwards on the inside so because it's connected this trick won't work don't bite right here if I paint all of this and then here F it turns red instead of deleting and that's telling us that it can't do it so we're going to try it a different way when I come to select again but this smaller brush and then I'm going to paint this and then press X which discards it and doesn't try to fill it in that should mean that this bit on the inside is now completely separate and if we repeat our edit the freight shells it's split up between the two sections and we can delete the second one that we don't want and now it's just an ordinary coal and we can do our first trick again which is to brush around with the Select tool and then press F it'll fill it in doing an excellent job I have one other particularly tricky bit on this model and that's where here there's a little portal is actually connected there's not a hole there so it goes through from front to back so once again if we come to select and we discard some of this geometry it's gonna make it a lot easier later on to fix it up the X now I'm going to do the same on this side and clean up a lot of this but actually we have to hit the F key on this side now there we go so once we've got rid of these major ones we're actually gonna allow the program to do its best at filling in all of these hopefully it's going to be able to get rid of all these artifacts on the inside and to do that we're going to come up to edit and say make solid now we can see it's cast off at the bottom and it's gotten rid of all these little holes in here and to say that doesn't still need work but it has made it watertight if we're happy with this we can click accept you note there are two versions the original one is still here if we wanted it back but we will work with the new one solely from now on okay flip 3d printing we've got some obvious problems with bits like this prefer not to print with support material if we can help it so we're simply going to brush them and use the F or erase it and feel many times as we need to there we go it's bit as well you can use a keyboard just to toggle back and forth between these so asked to select and then ever feel and then immediately do the same thing and that will avoid having to go through the menus so bits like this are particularly messy so I'm going to do it slightly differently and then a brush around the inside I'm gonna go X to discard that actually get rid of a lot of these inner shells I'm gonna repeat the same pattern as I have been delete the ones I don't want and then do a normal select and then F to fill that gap that looks much more principled go to speed up the video now and clean up the other holes of this nature [Music] okay I've gotten rid of all the annoying in a-holes so time to try our next secret weapon and that is by coming to sculpt and then from our brushes selecting robust smooth you see my settings here my strength is somewhere in the middle my depth is zero and my size I can change with the keyboard with the square brackets up and down and let's side with something obvious like the artifacts on the face here as we brush over them you can see it does a really really good job of smoothing them out the notice before with smooth means they look very harsh and after we smooth them they don't really stand out anymore which is what we want if we have an accurate 3d printer and we're making our bust we're going to see all of these little features now this tool will tend to take the tips off things so for instance if I'll see is that on the nose here it's gonna ruin it completely so I'm going to undo that and instead for an area like the nose zoom in make the brush size a lot smaller and do a series of little brushes now if it's like this hair here actually want that behavior to happen I don't want these dangling bits I'm gonna run it down the length of these hair strands and it's gonna clean it up a great deal once again I'm going to speed up the video and get all of this hair tidied up [Music] [Music] [Music] all right I think that is plenty clean let's compare to how it started will earlier on at least you can see that the hair was a complete mess and if we switch them around it's now much much smoother and much more 3d printable one final thing we're going to do is we have these annoying curved edges underneath so I'm going to do one more plain cut lop off a couple more millimeters and that should give me everything I need you have to sprint this perfectly so I'm going to come back up to clean cut but this just above although final check by coming to an analysis and then inspector and assess it one problem let it do the auto repair for that this should now be watertight and ready to 3d print all right over in simplified 3d let's import our model you see we've got a bit of a scale issue here but not to worry it's got a click and get this a much nicer size before I put the same a little bit concerned over the chin being ruined so one advantage I'll simplify 3d is the control of the support material I could do manual placement if I wanted and put it under there but instead I'm just going to come and put in a fairly high number here go to the resolution and generate some automatic supports and it should take care of the most problematic section without covering the whole rest of the model in support material wasting time and plastic and that looks good and ready to go [Music] [Music] [Music] so here it is 7 hours and 15 minutes to produce a copy of my wife only support material that added was under the chin and I'm going to see if I can get that off by itself first now time for the mark 3 oh so satisfying release off the printbed what is that using linear advance I printed this extremely fast but I'm still pretty happy with the quality check it out now eventually I'd like to turn this into a nightlight or something like that just because it's a little bit creepy and maybe a little bit interesting too until then thanks for watching hopefully you've learnt something new happy mesh mixing and 3d scanning g'day it's Michael again if you like the video then please click like if you want to see more content like this in future click Subscribe and make sure you click on the Bell to receive every notification if you really want to support the channel and see exclusive content become a patron visit my patreon page see you next time

Channel: Teaching Tech

Views: 75,873

Keywords: 3d scan, 3d scanning, 3d scanner, skanect, kinect, xbox 360, kinect sensor, meshmixer, clean up, post processing, hole removal, watertight, manifold, 3d print, 3d printing, 3d printable, bust, wifey, simplify3d, 3d photocopying, mesh, prepare, how to, guide, lesson, tutorial, prusa, i3 mk3, stl

Id: i5e2S8o7Ujc

Length: 15min 45sec (945 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 28 2018