New Square Body Build Part 5: Fuel system install and test.

field systems seem to come up a lot when you're doing an LS swap on these Square bodies and there's plenty of ways to skin a cat and there's lots of people who make fuel tanks and there's probably ways to cut a few corners I'll give you this warning when you're doing this LS Swap and people tell you how cheap it is you're looking at fifteen hundred dollars worth of stuff and I'm sure there's something that I'm missing I personally like to maintain the dual tank since this is a factory dual tank truck so I ordered two new Dorman tanks but they're for the 87 model square body due to it being fuel injection and it has the baffles in the tank I'll show you those here it is the same part number for both sides so you see that part number on screen that's either one the reason that works I brought these out to show you the hoses are what makes the difference because they reach over for the supply and the return line on either side they come this weird putty color like all these newer cars are being painted so maybe that's the driver but not sure I'm gonna love it with the paint Scheme on our truck we'll see if they show and then we'll deal with it because I did get rid of the plastic skids off the bottom because yuck also these come with the retaining rings and an O-ring so if you're buying parts keep in mind you're going to get a set of those this kit is from tanks Inc although it was cheaper for me to buy it through Summit than it was from the manufacturer it was 415 bucks and it comes with the line that you'll need all these fittings uh combiner so the two tanks go into one two check valves so the fuel doesn't go backwards into the tank you're not using which fitting there's one of the check valves it comes with these regulator filters which are out of Ls powered Corvettes and it comes with the fittings that you need to snap in place to convert it to an an which I highly recommend because a n is super easy to assemble and they tend to not leak these push lock fittings are really the deal that comes in this kit I've done a n lines before you guys have seen it on previous videos and it's a huge nightmare and just a ton of work whereas you can just slide that hose right over these barbs it doesn't even require any kind of a hose clamp actually they say not to because it'll just cause this to cut into the hose I've already tested it whenever I did that engine stand start and I just press that into the hose as far as you can see it and didn't leak a bit and I literally snug this by hand into that filter regulator for the fuel level Cinder and the pumps that are in tank I did order those from Hot Rod fuel hose a lot of it was just availability from different vendors and pricing so this kit ran me 450 bucks and when I ordered these all they had were passenger size fuel sending units and these are actually the walbro 255 liter per hour pumps which naturally aspirated LS power I've read anywhere up to 700 horsepower that they're good for whereas forced induction maybe down to five or five fifty now a lot of you wiring Wizards can build your own harness if you use the dual tank switch and make all your gauge work properly Etc there's a guy on Facebook that I was recommended to in some of the forums that he has a company that builds these harnesses so I reached out to him it's 329 bucks shipped to my house I can't give any kind of rating for communication because I would call it poor at best and I would have really liked to have seen this kit on a web site somewhere to know exactly what it came with good example is I do not need this Factory replacement valve that takes the pressure sides and sends back the anything over whatever 58 or 60 PSI it's actually only rated for I think 60 PSI you'll potentially burst this thing since I'm using that kit this is kind of redundant of course this harness that I paid for is made to run that valve as well so again I've got some redundancy here I wish I would have known that I'm not really blaming him I'm just blaming my lack of information gathering so those are the goods I'm going to get it installed in the truck now that I've got the suspension done and then I'll probably put the front suspension in it's good to just have all that stuff done and I can test it before we move on to the next step here's the assembled kits from the hot rod fuel hose again these are the walbro 255s with a little insulator on them rubber boot and the bracket and socks does come with the wiring connection that goes from the pump to The Sentinel unit so you don't have to really buy anything or worry about it as a matter of fact a lot of the stuff is duplicated from the pump and the sender so you'll end up with these extra O-rings again they've got collars but your tanks come with O-rings and collars so you're going to end up with three total per side anyway a little extra hose this is a different little stopper thing but it doesn't fit very well on those pumps so not sure what's up with that anyway these are put together also want to point out for the driver's side what I did was I cut these tabs off with 10 Snips which is what locates them in the tank and points this uh technically pointed on the app towards the outside of the truck I really want it to point to the inside also kind of helps with that float because if you don't have it clocked correctly that float can make contact with the sides of the baffle in there and nobody wants that so just cut the tabs off I'll set it down Square on the O-ring and lock it down I can't see a single thing that could go wrong after you choose an O-ring from the half dozen that you've got available to you if you buy all these kits you just want to kind of start it on the unit before you get it set in there makes life a lot easier [Music] [Music] then choose one of the multiple colors that you have hmm [Music] I think if you think you've got it you just want to make sure you've hammered each one of the tabs against the stops and that you don't see excessive o-ring hanging out on any one side so you've got a good seal here's the fuel line set up and this is the part of these projects that really frustrate me so imagine if you will when you see a gap between these two like Barbed fittings that's where the hose is so this connects to our engine with a 3 8 quick connect fitting on the fuel rail then it'll go to this splitter combiner which basically we'll send the fuel to the engine from either side either tank these are the one-way check valves that'll only let fuel go out and then this is the fuel regulator slash filter this is like I said the Corvette style so there's one of these for each side now you've got these quick connects that go on here this is a 5 16 return and the 3 8 supply line which takes these guys and these guys now you'd connect a Barb to the end of these and run hose to these barbs but then what do you hook this to well it seems to me they shorted us another pair actually two pair of these Quick Connect fittings because if you look at your fuel tank like I said this is the factory sender this is a 5 16 return and this is a 3 8 Supply so you can just cut the bar Bend off and use these quick connects onto there like you would the late model fuel injection stuff of course we would need a pair of these for each tank while waiting for the proper fittings to show up I went ahead and mounted this valve because like I said I think that the fuel level gauges are going to flow through this so it doesn't weigh anything it's not going to be a big deal to install it I also made this bracket so I could install this filter regulator assembly that's going to kind of be our crossover and then it'll connect with the driver's side fuel lines and then be able to run up this side to hook to our engine these are the fittings I ordered they were available next day on Amazon Prime from Evil energy which I think our fuel filter on our last build was that same brand so they sold them in pairs for uh 5 16 line and a 3 8. hard line basically what these are compression fittings with this ferrule or this Olive I think you call it I'm not sure no plumber but you basically going to cut the Barb off of those sending unit tubes slide this over it and then it's going to convert it to our 6 AM line I don't love the fact that I spent all that money on this fuel line kit like I said I bought it through Summit but it's actually a tanks part number and they have no way to actually hook it to your sending units it comes with these two fittings that I'm not sure what they're supposed to be for they're uh npt but there's only two and you're running a dual fuel tank clearly because they sent us two of these two of these and this combiner and enough fittings to go on everywhere else so I have no idea what the thought process was there or except for the fact that you need to come up with your own way to hook two 3 8 fuel lines to both the supply and return line on your sending unit if you're watching this video you didn't already Mount the sending units in the tank because you learned this lesson ahead of time you definitely don't want to be cutting these with them still in the fuel tank so you can clean them out nice and good this is the 5 16ths one drops on that drops on I'm going to hold this all the way down against the little Ridge there and thread the male side in until it makes contact it's still pretty loose it'll come right off of there three quarter inch wrenches I have no idea what kind of torque spec this is going to take but I guess just use your best judgment knowing that you're threading an aluminum fitting I mean it can only take so much that goes well forgive the crudeness of this setup but what I wanted to do was test both of these sending units and make sure they work with our gauge system which I don't remember what the name of this is like New Vintage USA or something if it were free I would remember the brand so I'll hook this one up and as I adjust it I do see the gauge work so that's good I tested the other gauge as well now I'm going to try to run it through this harness that I bought and see if the switch will work and change which sending unit this gauge reads from now I've installed the entire harness and I've made sure and plug in that fuel selector valve that we didn't think we're going to need but we'll need it to switch which sending unit this gauge reads from it will require me to send power to one of the fuel pumps when I select it otherwise it'll continue to read the same fuel sender for example we're selected the left hand pump which is the driver's side which is here it shows full you can move it down and it'll move to empty if I select this right hand pump I'm gonna set it to full just so you can see it's not going to activate it but if I send power to our fuel pump signal then it'll tell that tank selector to move signal to the other pump and to the other Cinder I'm just going to do it just for a split second so it'll con um complete that circuit this is a good test to do to make sure all the wiring and everything works before you get these settled down in the tank and find out you have a problem also confirms both the pumps work based on the switch just wanted to point out I'd cleaned up all these Mount brackets and I'm using this Flex Seal tape kind of as a liner inside the strap so it doesn't chafe the tank the factory stuff is junk by now and I mean you could use a tire inner tube or something else but this worked for me I think it was about 15 bucks for this roll and it'll take care of all four of them I've measured on these straps kind of Center to Center on the bolt holes to match the frame so it'll be really close main thing is don't tighten these up very much just get them started so you can still move it a little bit if you need to make adjustments while you're tightening it so I did a little quick press on these hoses these fittings and attached them to those fittings that are on the sending unit these really press on super easy it'll almost scare you like you're afraid they're going to leak also this is quarter inch fuel lines basically just for vapor and I will at some point run like a charcoal canister tie these two together the two tanks together and then run a hose down to the charcoal Caster because if you've ever just left one of these open on this vent and park your vehicle in a garage you'll notice it the next day because it'll get to stinking I've shared this trick before but I like to put a little engine assembly Lube on some of these older bolts and it helps get them in and out much easier anti-seize is kind of the same thing but for some reason this is more of an oil and tends to work better in this kind of application so our ground put it right back in that Factory location I'll show you just how easy this stuff is it's kind of shocking really that it doesn't leak that's it you press this hose on those fittings like that and that's your seal you guys remember a few videos back whenever I showed or when we built a lot of those PTFE lined an stuff and I mean with the cutting the crimping and the Olive in there it's a huge pain in the butt whereas this totally not here's the completed fuel system that's the supply and return for the passenger side tank and that's again those vent lines that want to run to a charcoal canister anyway these two come to this first regulator filter and there's the output one-way check valve it comes around and joins the supply and the return from the driver's side and here's the driver side filter regulator one-way check valve and then those combined together and that's going to run up to our engine now once I see what the exhaust system looks like under here I'll know if I need to order like some of that Dei heat wrap and I can just unfasten these and slide that stuff over each one of those lines it'll look really nice and keep that stuff from getting too hot to make this a well-rounded video I've put some gasoline in this tank and I ran our line to our intake with the disconnect fitting of course we'll cut this excess out once we get this engine installed then I've got our old Snap-on fuel pressure gauge so we'll know if we're keeping somewhere near 60 PSI so I've got it got fuel in the left hand tank so I'm going to flip this switch and see what happens 60. let's check for leaks [Music] [Music] seems to be happy the reason why it's noisy is there's almost no gas in this tank to insulate the sound around the pump plus the Caps open and all that good stuff so it won't be that loud now what I'm going to do is bleed this pressure off I apologize I didn't go get a bunch of gas so I'm gonna disconnect this pump the fuel into this tank put it in the other uh right side fuel tank and then try it again so we can test the rest of that fittings hopefully there's enough fuel in there for it to pick up so we'll switch this to right hand tank turn on this looks like stuck right there at 57 see if there's a leak nothing I can see or smell foreign up to 58 which I think is what the claim is for that factory Corvette regulator I'm going to call this a win I mean barely a league over there at one of those fittings which is a pretty simple fix not hard to reach um the pressure came up where we wanted it to the switch worked harness everything was a Wham today so that's always a good day I appreciate you guys watching and we'll see you next time when you put the front suspension under this guy [Music]

Channel: GreaseMonkeyTV

Views: 26,419

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Id: 2-HN7ucxGKw

Length: 21min 6sec (1266 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 28 2023