How to LS swap an old GMC Chevy Square Body in a Weekend

[Music] all right obviously we're joking we're not going to put the motor in running just did that for fun um but we are going to try and swap this 85 c30 square body dually in one weekend we're gonna start friday night after work and hope we have it driving sometime sunday um i picked this truck up up northern pa it had a big block 454 turbo 400 trans two-wheel drive the motor was not in it when i got it i never saw it run or not run it it was in pieces took it home in the bed of the truck so um under the assumption that the transmission works we will find out soon enough and this should hopefully be done sunday a couple other cool things on this thing it's a dually and it's actually a what what's the name of it a camp camper special they believe campers yeah so it has these cool badges i guess back in the day they uh put those you know larger campers over the cab here um so that's what this was that's this was built for it's in pretty decent shape inside all the normal stuff a little rusty but that's i supposed to be expected here all right so full transparency we are a little ahead of the game like we said there was no motor in this when we got it so uh no need to take it out so that's not really cheap but that's where we're at what else we've done done one of these recently yeah we've already put a 5'3 in to a turbo 400 on another video of ours on the hummer or the humvee so i know what to expect there um you know i did the other ls swap square body and the k20 granted that was four wheel drive and that was a manual but you know i'm going to use the same ideas with the radiator and with the wiring using a stock truck harness not cut down you can cut the harness down if you want to we did that in the humvee but this is just going to be a stock harness that we have the ecu flash to turn off the anti-theft the vats basically and it does have like the rero2s and egr and all that that's not needed because the truck's so old that stuff's all turned off as well but really just to get the thing running all you got to do is send your computer out and get it flashed to turn the anti-theft off and then it will run without the programmed key and stuff all right so what's the first thing here uh first thing is is we're going to mount the turbo 400 converter to the five 5348 flex plate and what i do on those is pretty simple you got this cheap little part here you can buy this is a adapter that adapts the crankshaft of the ls motors to the torque converter on that and then you have to put your flex plate on here and as you can see you got to take something and hog these holes out you can see the holes don't line up you got to hog them out and then you use you know big convertibles that have the they have a built-in washer on the head now you can also buy this flex plate and everything you need should you not like this idea but this is the way i've done them so as you can see i have this one hogged out i started and did the majority of the plasma cutter then just cleaned it up with the die grinder so i'm sure you're interested in the motor mounts so here they are these are the original just rubber motor mounts that came on the 85 c30 and over here is the original big block clam shells they call them that would bolt to the motor they won't bolt to the ls motor so you got to use these adapter plates these are just online cheap adapter plates and we are going to position the motor as far back as possible back to the firewall so these will bolt to the motor and then the clam shells will bolt to these let's put them on next comes the clam shells the original clam shells and you can see there's a bunch of different holes you can position it in different places we're going to go all the way forward so the motor is as far back as i can go that's the same same way it was in the last truck it seems to be that way on most of them that the motor needs to go backwards i guess based on where the plates lie [Music] oh looks like i have to shorten the bolt the bolts hitting the block so you have to shorten these bolts down a little bit that one too that one's okay but these bolts need to be shortened because they're running into the block i don't have time to run to the hardware store so i'm just going to shorten these by cutting them down real quick right now [Applause] when you cut them down it's kind of hard to get the threads back right to get them started sometimes you can thread a nut on and then thread it off file it down but i got it good enough start it by hand it'll be just fine all right we're on the other side passenger side now and same thing tapered bolt hold the plate to the block now that we put the plate on the adapter plate we're going to put the clamshell on the clam shell runs into this boss here i trim the boss off the block you might not want to do that you could trim your clam shell down and probably be a little more work but um i'm not worried about it so the air conditioning this truck has air conditioning also if you're going to run the stock truck ls brackets it probably will not clear the frame rail you'd have to get a relocation for the air conditioning or mount the motor up higher so but for now we're using adapter plates in the stock hand shell and got to turn the screw the right way but like i said you have to trim that boss off the block a little bit i also had to trim down these back two bolts or the bottom and the back ones just like on the other side now that the motor mounts are out um we're gonna go over here to the torque converter front pump steel whenever you have the converter out it's a good idea to change the seal because if it leaks you got to pull the motor or the transmission to fix it so i uh do it right now maybe all right new steel going in my little pressing tool here all right we're gonna put the converter in now i lubed this snout up here with some atf so it slides into the new steel knife without tearing it and kind of want to eye up where these slots are for the front pump see where they're at in there so you can get an idea of where it's going to drop in and it looks like mine's down here maybe whatever four or five o'clock but you've got to make sure you have the converter in all the way before you put your motor in tighten it down oh that's a good sound those are all good sounds then you put your fingers in and there's no more clearance here's another look you can kind of see if you put your straight edge or hand here across the distance from the mounting bolt to where the where the bell housing would be you got a lot of gap here and that that's what you would measure on the motor to make sure you have the same amount of space and uh when you put the converter in you normally leave one of the mounting bolts in the position that you will be able to access at the start of a bullet just makes it easier now we're going to work on setting the motor in we talked earlier about the crankshaft spacer this crankshaft spacer is going to go into the crankshaft or set it on the converter i think we're going to send in the converter i'm not really sure what the which side is best but um you need this to adapt the 5.3 motor to the turbo 400 torque converter some of the 6 liters if you're using a 6 liter have different length crankshafts so this could be a different setup you'll have to check that out if you're using a six liter when you put it in you just want to make sure that you the clam shells drop over the motor mods that you got the trans at the right height might have to jack the trans up or down to match to get it to slide over the dowel pins on the block here so i'm going to jump in the truck and put this on the converter i think [Music] hey a little bit awesome all right um now we're under the car the motor is in kind of it's hanging there and we're just we just got the dowel pins on the uh engine to line up with the transmission i'm just starting a bolt to keep it from separating you don't want to use the bolts to suck it together but i'm going to start the bolts to keep it from separating then we're going to wiggle it and get the motor to seat flush against the transmission bell housing and then we'll slide the converter forward and you've got to make sure your converter spins freely when you bolt the motor to the trans the converters spin freely before you bolt it to the flywheel or flex plate i should say it's not actually a flywheel so we're going to start these bolts and go from there so you can see up in there it's real hard to see but there's the collar in there that's baiting the converter to the crankshaft and we have the transmission bolted to the motor now firmly and what you want to make sure is that there's still a little bit of space i think it's like an eighth inch you want maximum of an eighth inch from the converter to the flex plate and you want to make sure that it moves smoothly see how free the converter is that's what you want if the converter is tight you've done something wrong you got to make sure that you didn't pinch the converter in there because you'll break the front pump so we're going to line up the converter and shove it forward now it's ready to bolt on put the knot on the back side okay get some wrenches on them take them up all right [Music] all right we've reached a good stopping point for the night the uh motor is in and bolted down the bell housing bolts are in the converter bolts aren't but this motor shouldn't have to come back out so tomorrow uh the plan is to do wiring fuel exhaust with the building exhaust uh as much as possible so we'll see how that goes tomorrow all right see you tomorrow all right we're back for day two it is saturday morning and what do we have on the agenda for today um it's going to start with putting the manifolds on doing the exhaust system fuel system last time i ran a inline pump with the carbureted fuel tank this time i'm actually going to put in a fuel-injected tank with a pump in the tank and then run fuel lines and see how far we can get try and get the cooling system done get it wired make a throttle cable intake all that has to be done but we'll just see as far as we can get today so the first thing will be the exhaust manifolds um there's a couple different styles these are like from the early trucks that have egr so there's a right side manifold with the egr tube you can take that off and tap this port to half mpt and just put a plug in it and then at some point here they went to a style where they just still had the boss but didn't didn't put a port in it and then some other year i don't know the exact years here but they went to a style without anything and we're just going to use these because clearance issues i don't know about this truck but the last k20 i did four wheel drive this i had to grind down it rested right on the frame rail so we're going to use these because they have no boss on them we do have some clearance issues i'm going to pull the manifolds back out you can see down there i mean they're in but i'm going to just trim some of that manifold casting boss off just so the thing's not rattling around hitting the frame rail and then on this side the egr port actually looks like it wouldn't be the issue the issue is same thing further back there at the flange so i'm going to take a little bit off just so there's a little more room that one actually clears but just barely all right let's see how we did have the driver's side manifold in it's pretty close so you can get this through there so it's not touching but when you uh get on the gas and that side lifts it may rub a little i could trim it some more so but it is clear right now so we're going to go with it we're on the passenger side you can see where we clearanced the nut and the manifold on the bottom side this is really close to the rail but we're gonna put it in all right all right so here's the ls exhaust manifold and down here is what used to be the flange for the big block long tubes so we're going to cut the pipe back here and then we just have to make a little kind of header pipe to join the this manifold to the exhaust tube down here once we cut this flange off [Applause] to join them we're going to make little downpipes these are the original flanges off of the ls trucks y-pipe so these will bolt to the manifolds and then we'll use these assortment of bends to make the rest of it and then we're going to use a band a strap clamp to join the down pipe to the tail pipes [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right so the manifold dumped right into the rail so we have this turning out of the rail and coming down enough to clear all the shifter linkages and then we'll go under the shifter linkages and just do a slight bend straight into the tailpipe and then this will just be a buck clamp here that will come up halfway and clamp onto the header plate oh shoot [Laughter] right now geez all right instructor fire oh my gosh so this little piece might work that little bin i'll leave it a little big because it's always easier to cut it smaller right [Applause] there it is right there [Music] all right we're gonna take it out now and finish the welding see here's the finished piece it came out pretty good uh we're just gonna have to get it painted up now maybe in the video you can see one of the gaps was pretty big so i used a piece of uh you know just bent a piece of tig welding filler wire and put it in the gap and then filled it in you're probably wondering why i'm not using the tig welder not really that good at it yet and we're using most the tools that most normal guys have in their garage everybody seems to have a mig welder we're not using the two post lift to do the job or just doing it right in the ground so just so you can get an idea of what you're in for with normal tools most the paint's going to burn off from the heat of the exhaust so i just use whatever junk paint i have laying around this isn't the ideal color it's just what i had because i figure a little paint better than doing nothing at all this can of paint probably be four years old barely wants to come out this is the passenger side we're going to do roughly the same thing um i will have to i think cut half this ear off of here to clear the frame rail but with the other two and the bolt catching the other half of the ear it'll still tighten down just fine and then we're gonna cut this pipe and like so i'm just lengthening about four inches [Applause] [Music] ugh [Music] [Applause] so i like red yeah me too look how hot it is just steaming the paint right off all right while the paint dries um we're gonna move on to the fuel system we'll remove the old tank and then compare it to the new tank and talk about the differences and then put the new tank in and start making fuel lines all right so this is the tank out of the 85 this is a tank out of an 87 with throttle body injection which is fuel injection so inside the tank here there is a tray that collects the fuel to kind of help the fuel pump from starving on a carbureted vehicle you run off the fuel in the bowl and if you'll inject the car you need to remain constant fuel pressure otherwise the car will stall so there's a bowl in there and then this is the fuel center for an 85 or an 87 tbi truck but these only make like 12 or 15 pounds of fuel pressure you need whatever ls is 50 or 60 so you have to buy a fuel pump and then put the fuel pump onto the tbi sender so this fuel pump is i believe just from a later vortec 381 and now he's gonna put all together perhaps all right now we're gonna put the sender assembly in the tank put the o-ring on there and dip it in the tank o-ring goes down in that groove cylinder goes in the grooves and you got your locking ring once you got it all centered and positioned you just twist your locking ring over on the original square body tank you have your sender wire for the fuel level and you have a ground there's no fuel pump in it just two wires on the new one you have ground sender and the gray being the fuel pump so i need to run a wire from the fuse box that we're going to add all the way back to the fuel pump so i'm adding a wire front to rear and i'm going to cut this connector off because i don't have the other half and i'm going to splice in these that i have that way when you want to drop the tank you just got to undo a connector and undo the ground not have it hard wired like someone else had it we're going to now put a high pressure fuel line on the three metal lines we're going to run rubber line from these to the hard plastic nylon lines that are going to run to the front of the truck so quarter inch 5 16 3 8 high pressure line with high pressure clamps and this will allow us to get the tank up in the truck and then make the fuel lines all right we're good the tank hoses all on and we're just getting it ready to put in the car we're going to set it into the hangers and bend the straps or new straps so we'll bend them around bolt it in we're going to be making fuel lines front the rear on this nylon fuel line this kit is what i've used on all these ls swaps that's a doorman and it's just a bunch of the connectors and the spools align we're gonna put an inline fuel filter even though it has a socket tank we're gonna put another inline fuel filter in um but yeah these are the connectors that we're gonna use and we'll start making them connecting the power and the level sensor and then we'll go up on top the rail here and bolts in the ground it's nice to leave enough wire that you can leave the tank on the ground and kind of get it back together all right pull the extra hose through [Music] [Applause] all right tanks bolted in now we're going to transition these rubber lines into nylon lines and we gotta run this power line forward to the engine bay so that's next uh here's a 3 8 quick connect and then this barb is going to attach to the rubber hose for the return line we're going to fish these fuel lines all the way back and route them where we want them you made negative progress so far yeah all right keep on pushing oh yeah that's the spot now that we have everything hooked up down at the tank fuel lines and all we're gonna put the fittings on the fuel rail side and connect them to the engine just make sure that they're nice and then reinstall the retaining clips and then when we're done with this we gotta go make sure that nothing's gonna rub anywhere and everything's secure there it is our downpipes that we made are now dry as you can see one fell into the fire pit where i was painting it but oh well um so now we're gonna put the oxygen sensors in these are just cheap from rock auto rocato has a bunch of cheap parts you can do for these swaps oxygen sensors that we're gonna put in and then we're gonna put the downpipes on if you don't put this goop on or if some type of never sees it makes oxygen sensors real hard to get back out that's it done [Music] there you go all right let's put them on the truck here we go and with these clamps down here they do leak a little but i use them all the time they're fine they make simple work out of joining pipes like this but just get it where half goes on each roughly squeeze it together uh we just got done doing the tour converter bolts i didn't get any video of it because mike was helping me turn the motor over while i did the bolts so now we're on to the front accessories alternator water pump tensioner power steering pump idler so we're gonna hang these on and put the belt on and then we'll move on to the electrical [Music] this truck has hydro boost if your car is hydro boost you need two return lines into the power steering reservoir all right and i'm pretty sure it was the box that went to the bottom one and the the sprakes go into the top one if you switch them sometimes they really aerate the fluid just switch them back if you have a power steering reservoir that doesn't have hydro boost but you're you're swapping it into something that does then you can use a t fitting like one of these to return the two return lines into one reservoir same thing if it aerates the fluid and doesn't work well swap the lines so that it's um like not the pressures aren't heading or head butting whatever they call it just try swapping the lines ls power steering pumps use a later style fitting than if you're swapping it into say a older chevy vehicle this truck is an 85 and actually uses the same fitting as the ls motors if you have an older one then what you got to do is on your v on your v pulley pump you got to take this fitting out of the back it comes right out and you'll put that into your ls truck power steering pump you can buy an adapter online they're like 15 or 20 bucks but if you just want to swap the fitting this goes with this fitting here goes with the power steering hose so you get a hose made or you can swap this fitting however you want to do it all right on the ls bell housings they don't have a hole in the block in the top right the top passenger side so the dipstick tube normally gets bolted there they make uh brackets and stuff you can buy to like relocate it all i use is this little three quarter inch emt conduit bracket that i drilled out and i put a little piece of rubber in it and all that's going to do is suck this tube and hold it tight against the back of the cylinder head and that's what's going to hold my dipstick tube from moving now that we're done with the front accessories and the belts on we're going to get in the wiring the first part of the wiring we're going to do is just putting senders in so that the old square body gauges will know the temperature and oil pressure of the ls engine this is a broken ls truck 4853 oil pressure switch this is a square body one so they obviously have different threads you can do two things you can buy an adapter like this and it'll thread right in there or you can take your original oil pressure switch and break the guts out of it and drill and tap a 1 8 mpt into it like this this was an oil pressure switch that i used as a mechanical gauge now but you just drill and tap it for 1 8 mpt and it's basically just becomes this and what this allows you to do is you thread this into where it went and then you thread this in and your oil pressure reads from the square body cluster plugs in right here the computer on an ls engine does not need to know oil pressure it doesn't care it won't shut the engine off or anything you also don't need the oil level sensor that's just for cluster stuff over on the coolant side of it the ls coolant temp sensor is used by the computer and it doesn't have any open ports you can get a different temp sensor that has three wires instead of two but what i'm going to do is i just got this adapter and this is going to thread into the other side cylinder head i'll take the plug out and then this is a square body temp sensor and this will thread into there and then my square body gauge will plug right onto there so it should have working gauges on the square body and they'll be all separate from the ls engine wiring harness so we'll put these on now all right more on the wiring of the truck i get lots of questions on this and you could easily spend lots of time on this hours but we're going to do a quick explanation sometimes we cut these harnesses down so they're not so messy but this one's not um this is this got cut ripping it out but it's just spliced back together but this is a stock truck harness like 9902 stock computer stock fuse box this is all just right out of the truck so some of the connectors aren't going to be used to get the truck to run all you have to do is get the vehicle anti-theft the vats the security flashed you can go on ebay you can go anywhere and find somebody to send your computer out to to get it flashed so you can turn off but also while they're doing that you may want to do other things depending on what you're doing with the truck like you know if it's an old truck and you don't need all the cats and emissions and egr and downstream o2s you can turn that off then but to just get it to run you just need the anti-theft turned off by somebody that can do that whether you have hp tuners of your own or whatever so that being said this computer has the vehicle anti-theft turned off onto the fuse box this is the stock truck fuse box this connector here this needs power constant from the battery all right coming to the bottom side this here this gray one this is your c one connector c one eighty c one a nine the pin the connectors label this power needs to be supplied by the ignition so when you turn the ignition on c1 a9 needs to get power going over here to [Music] c3f1 which is the red small square connector well smaller square connector c3 f1 fuel pump that's what's going to send power to your fuel pump it'll power up when you turn the ignition on if the car doesn't start it'll turn the fuel pump off back over to c1 again c1 b11 constant battery power this wire is a big red wire in the great connector that needs constant battery power you can see i just go right from the connector right over to that main lug that i said needs constant battery power uh that's three of them and then off this was a c100 c100 this black connector that i have the wires cut off this green wire c100 serial data wire um c100 looks like i don't know what i wrote green but anyway that's the one that goes to your obd to for your check engine light to do the tuning or to see what codes or anything in it and then this brown and white wire g brown and white this is a ground wire this will supply ground to your check engine light bulb so the check engine light bulb will get constant hot power and then this will supply the ground when it wants the check engine light on this the other one the obd is looks like pin h if this one's pin g this must be h but anyway it's the ground wire the green wire on the end so one two three four five wires on the back side you have to turn off the anti-theft you have to supply power to this main lug here there's what four main lugs on this thing but just this one kind of in the corner by your little fuse grabber all right then you put the whole harness back on you got to connect all the grounds there's multiple grounds in the harness itself you got to make sure are grounded and then you're going to use the starter wire from the truck itself the square body you're not going to use the starter wire on the ls truck harness you're going to use the starter wire on the square body coming off the square body harness so let's put this on and see if we can get it right [Music] okay so here's the stock throttle cable and bracket from the square body it doesn't reach so we're going to use the throttle cable from the truck the motor came out of just a 2000 chevy silverado another thing you got to do is the hole in the firewall you got to make it a little bit bigger i just use a unibit you got to make it a couple steps bigger so that the truck throttle cable will clip in okay there's that's in so the silverado throttle cable was a little too long the cable itself was the sheathing was okay so we cut the end off like this and installed one of these just as a stopper they're just becoming a pad like this and then you can set it to the length that you want so that will now go into here all right next up is the coil packs couple of these on each side plug in the coils [Applause] we've reached a good stopping point for tonight did a lot of the electrical and accessories on the motor tomorrow we'll put fluids in it and try to finish some of the wiring and integrating the two wiring harnesses put the rad and coolant stuff together and hopefully go for a drive at some point tomorrow all right it's sunday morning we're back at the square body we have a list of things to do today intake cooling system wiring mainly stuff like that uh right now we're gonna work on integrating the two wiring harnesses we need the square body to crank the engine over and we need it to power up the fuse box for the ls motor we need to have the fuse box tied into the fuel pump and we're also going to tie in the factory truck gauges into those senders we put on earlier in the uh earlier in the video we talked about putting the centers on there's probably 50 ways to do this what we're going to do at this point where's what the plan is we're going to use the distributor wire power to turn on the fuse box and we're going to use the original wire starter wire starter signal wire to crank the starter and the original oil pressure and coolant temp wires to read the additional senders we put on the engine so that's what we're going to start doing right now and then we'll have to build some battery cable we'll have to build a alternator cable we already made the battery cables hopefully they'll work so we'll start doing that we are going to start hooking up the electrical so if the ignition comes on i don't want the pump to run dry since there's nothing in the tank so we're gonna put some gas in it first with one of these siphon types if it fits in here yep call them jiggler pumps or whatever you want just get the siphon going just like that we're doing the battery cables now these are the 2000 silverado battery cables we cut the side posts off but regular clamps on and then on the 2000 silverado this is generally on the driver's side and this wire goes right to your alternator so what we got to do is take this off and now we got to make a cable that's going to go from this junction block to the alternator and then also another one or that same one has to then come off and go to this terminal we talked about in the fuse box because this needs constant battery power and then the alternator would be charging through that same cable or another one so that's the only cable we're really gonna have to make is one that joins those three but the battery cables are right off the 2000 silverado and here's the other cable from the alternator to the fuse box we'll put this on now so again this is the power that was going to the distributor on the 85 c30 we're using this ignition on to power up c1a9 of the fuse box and then this is the wire the white wire here is the one that we ran from the fuel pump that we added to the fuse box and this is going to the gray wire c3f1 that turns the fuel bulb on so we're just gonna put those together and then the wiring should be about done at the fuse box connector c100 pin g brown and white wire on the ls truck fuse box this applies ground for your check engine light this wire this brown wire on the 85 dually is the one that needs to be grounded so when you ground this wire as i will show you the check engine light will come on back at c100 connector on the ls truck fuse box position h there's a h right there dark green so c 100 h wire this is the serial data for obd2 run this wire under the hood and you're going to add an obd connector that will go in position two of the obd so position two that'll be your serial data coming from that green wire four and five they just go to ground and then sixteen this goes to constant hot not ignition hot so under the hood you gotta find a constant hot or run a new wire and then four and five are ground two is your serial data line that we're adding into right now so that's how you wire the obd connector all right we're gonna do a test fire we got everything connected that we can see and remember so this is how we check we're gonna fire it up and see what happens we know that it runs as you saw earlier but i haven't started it in the truck so let's see what it sounds like [Music] need some more power steering fluid [Music] [Applause] all right we just got it started as you saw it's stumbling a little bit i mean lots of air in the lines it looks like everything's connected so i just want to back it outside and you know rev it up so i'm gonna try and get it to clean up before i start chasing misfires it might clean up on its own so we're gonna back it out [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] all right we got it running we're gonna hook up the radiator in the shroud and fan get all that plumbed up so we can let it run longer get it warmed up it's not exactly running right yet so i'm gonna have to figure that out but i need to be able to let it run longer so next is the drop in the radiator all right we're putting the red and this is the original big box radiator so we're gonna bolt this in place and then put the fan in the shroud on all right this i believe is the original big block shroud and this is the last truck shroud as you can see the big block shroud is pretty short pretty much not reaching the fan so i am going to try and put in the ls shroud and that way it actually goes over the fan all right we're gonna put the rad hoses on these are just actually the stock ls truck radiator hoses upper rad hose again stock silverado 2000 i believe it was i'm even using the spring clamps that came with the hose i can see here i'm gonna have to trim the fan shroud for the intake it's super close right here there's not gonna be room but we'll talk about that in a second all right now we're gonna hook up the heater core lines i'm gonna run the rear port through the heater core and then it'll come out of the heater core and it'll t and go into the front and it'll t and also go into the radiator that's what i did before it seemed to work um these systems on these trucks were originally designed for an expansion tank so you could convert to an expansion tank style cooling system which doesn't have a radiator cap it would just have the expansion tank another thing i'm going to do is put in this into the top radiator hose and this is just going to cut and splice in there and then off of here it'll run into this hose in the bottom of the throttle body which runs off into these steam port tubes so that's kind of supposed to let the air escape that gets in there and it'll just go back into the top of the radiator i've never used one of these before i normally just plumbed it right into the radiator and that also has worked fine for me but i'm using one of these this time i'll give it a try i guess i'll let you guys know how it goes all right got the rad hoses on um and the shroud in and you can see there's not much room here this is one of those cheap ebay or amazon whatever intakes there's just not quite enough room to go in there so i'm going to just trim this shroud out [Applause] all right so this intake tube is too long it's going to run into the coolant reservoir i could shorten this intake tube stuff this in here this reservoir is full of just nastiness so i'm gonna take it out to clean it and maybe i'll just use a simple overflow bottle but for now i'm gonna remove this let's put the air filter here while i clean this or replace it with something else a gallon of distilled water and then we'll put a gallon of coolant in so terrible 400 trans has a vacuum modulator on it for the shift points so there was no line in there when we got the truck we're just going to use this hard plastic vacuum line and some rubber on each end and then i need to get a port on the motor you just go from the modulator to the intake somewhere and some of these have these little things that you can break off and there's a vacuum port you can use now [Applause] all right the truck is pretty much done it's ls swapped it runs it drives uh it's sunday i don't know night afternoon as you can hear in the video it has a little whistle to it the intake gasket on the passenger side is leaking if you watch the video you can see that i reused a lot of the gaskets exhaust manifold intake pretty much all the gaskets just this is like a budget truck you know so but it does run and drive it's it's ready to go down the road other than maybe you know if you're going to drive it across the country there's a couple things to button up a little better but for the most part it's ready to go

Channel: Pirate Jet Garage

Views: 469,598

Keywords: square body ls swap, ls swap square body chevy, square body chevy, ls swap, gmc, C3500, dually, camper special

Id: eVTKeX6AQhQ

Length: 61min 20sec (3680 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 06 2022