Standalone LS Swap Harness: If I Can Do It, You Can Do It

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welcome back everybody to cheeky garage and today I'm going to attempt the most intimidating part for me about this whole process the wiring harness alright we've got the harness here I've got some sheetrock laying around luckily because I live in a constant state of unfinished projects and we've got it laid out here kind of the way it sits on the motor this would be the back of the motor all the way up here you've got like your MAF plug goes the throttle body all of your injectors your you know this bank of coils all the way back knock sensor driver side o2 this big ole fat part of the wiring goes behind the motor you know crank position sensor everything's labeled as I took it off the motor because I this is my first horse I've ever done so I tried to set myself up for success you know I try to take my time and currently that that is my only advice I'm sure I will have more to end of this process but anything you're not sure of just label it label it take your time you know try not to break anything don't get in a rush and you know there's a lot of things here we're gonna be removing I suspect that these are you know transmission stuff I think this might be gas pedal related so that might be stand but again you know I don't know what I don't know here this is gonna be a learning process I'm sure there'll be a learning curve and luckily lt1 swap comm got us covered believe you guys names Brendan or Brandon and he has an incredible amount of detailed information on his website lt1 swap comm you've probably already heard of it five threes four eight six shows I mean all the LS is I think some of the new stuff some of the new LT stuffs on there I know some of the old stuff the old LT stuff is invaluable information right here so that's what we're at I'm gonna start getting this loom off and we'll see what we find y'all stick with me all right we're back all the loom is removed it's quite a bit took I don't know probably an hour hour and a half somewhere near just taking my time making sure not to cut anything making sure not to break anything keeping things labeled trying to stay organized all that okay now a few tips things that I thought of as I was pulling this loom off first anytime you have a a tee a branch and the harness put some zip ties put some zip ties on that branch that way it sits exactly like right here this is all sitting on the motor these will stay exactly where they were on the motor if you don't you may find you're flipping this harness around getting the loom off of it doing all that you may find oh my branch moved over here you know put zip ties you know you're pulling a loom off you get it to here put some zip ties on it immediately I chose zip ties over electrical tape so any wires that I may be pulling out of this harness to thin it out they'll slide right through the zip ties electrical tape you know you got to the stickiness of the tape it might be a pain so I chose a zip ties even if it's temporary that's what I chose to do and that's why another quick tip any kind of single plug harness you know just two three wires whatever going to a single plug it's not in a big big you know wad of wires single lines like this you can leave the Loom on whether you're taking it out or keeping it because you're not going to thin one of these three wires out of the crank position sensor [Music] I'm not actually gonna do that I am gonna take every bit of Loom off just because I'm anal and that's just the way I am I want to you know just to have that warm and fuzzy be able to see the wire all that good stuff put fresh loom on it but if you're working from a donor car or a known good vehicle that you know runs no issues there's no real need to take this off you can leave this on to save yourself some time but I will be replacing all of it I'm taking every bit of it off what else you'll have an assortment of little Clips along the harness you may or may not be able to reuse them they're just little Clips like this big one was on the back of the motor holds like the big fat part of the harness little Clips along the fuel rails fuel reel area I just took pictures of them I took pictures far enough back where you know I can see some label and see you know have a reference of where that was in the harness that way when I put it back together I can put the clip back in and you know if it's if whatever bracket or whatever it's bolted to if it's still available on the motor then I can reuse it and I know where it came from so those are just a few tips other than that you can see the harness is still laid out you know like here's this would be the intake you still got all your injectors like everything's where it was and you know that's that so we're gonna start using LT one here in just a second LT one swap comm and start thinning some stuff out so sit tight okay quick tip before you start thinning out the harness I've already got the loom off before you start thinning it up take your plugs for your ECU verify their orientation how they plug into the computer and then on the inside where they face each other label them monitor blue and red because you got to take these little caps off and then once those chaps are off you know it might be hard to keep up with everything on on what is what so this way you've got it permanently labeled and then you plug them back in and you'll never see that but it'll still be there for you so a handy little tip okay all right we're gonna work on these on the PCM plugs now you see you plugs my red that's kind of already broken I guess from the see a little broken tab there this one's kind of out I guess that's from the professional removal of this engine but the blue looks good so we'll demonstrate on the blue you got to get to the wires inside this so you got to get these gray caps off and then the colored guys off the bottom on the top it's just two little pinch tabs you just kind of pinch [Music] yeah well I might I might break this one with my professional removal but you should just be able to pinch this and pull it out that'll probably fight you there I guess let's do the same on this side we've got some zip ties holding these down I'm gonna cut these very carefully okay that opens up some space again this is the first time I've done this so if I screw up on camera it's this is a live action so to speak [Music] it's putting up a fight come out of there [Music] there we go all right there it is not broken good to go now on the colored caps inside on the white part underneath the blue cap there's a little little spring not really spring but just a plastic you know tab just like any other electrical connector just take you a little screwdriver or something push in and pull up and then while you're pulling up on this side you know not with great force or anything just go the other side and do the same [Music] [Music] and now we're ready to start deepening okay so it's a new day so it pretty late last night getting as far as I did so Brendan on his website states that this info is 1998 f-body specific 97 98 Corvette should be very close pay attention to location of five volt reference and ground reference so that being said I went through both 80 pin connectors pin by pin to check them to his charts now just so everybody knows this is just for the F body section of his website this is not the truck motors and there were quite a few differences that I found pin by pin most of them were just a color difference the location and the pin function was the same it was just a difference in color there were a few that were different function different color I found a post on a Corvette forum or someone listed a 1998 Corvette a specific pin out I don't have it pulled up anymore I'll put a link to that in the description so now that we know you know where we stand in you know compared to lt1 swap I'm gonna start removing everything that is listed to remove and alter so the differences there are some but they are not that great they're not too different so we should still be able to use lt1 swap as our reference so let's get started here we go we are on the red plug PCM plug l21 swap says pin number three you can see the numbers I'm not sure if you can see it on camera but you can see them in in real life here one two three EVAP canister vent solenoid valve it's supposed to be a white wire I don't have that that's okay because we're gonna remove it anyway next one to remove pin number eleven that's this one it's supposed to be a dark blue it's already gone the Corvette didn't use it great number fourteen dark green here we go we have our dark green wire pin number fourteen so says to remove so we're gonna push it push it up push the wire into the connector and you can see it comes out so you know you're grabbing the right one I'm gonna grab a little screwdriver or something pointy pickled work anything like that lift out on this little white tab the screwdriver back behind it again and push it down and there it goes and that's it some of these I think different PCMs might have or different harnesses might have some of them have a little barb or something and these things can be sharp so just be just be careful don't just go ripping these out because there are certain types of electrical plugs that this this particular individual wire does not have it but just be mindful that some of these connections can be sharp and you can potentially pierce a neighboring wire so we've got this unplugged I'm just going to set this aside I'm gonna go through the rest of this plug and pull out all the pins that says to pull out and then we'll finish chasing them out here in a minute all right we got the red plug everything coming out is out a lot of the things that the website says to remove we're already gone a lot of it was EGR and I don't know if it was a year model or if it was Corvette specific but mine doesn't have EGR so these are the wires and I think what I'm gonna do let me set the camera down I think what I'm gonna do is I've got the zip ties so you can slide the wires you know that's gonna work pretty nice but they've got the bottom of the pin kind of has a little burr to it so I'm gonna snip them I'm gonna leave myself enough room when I snip in case I've made a mistake somewhere really mine up myself enough room to be able to splice and solder back together if need be just in case but I'm a snip just so I don't drag that sharp piece back along all these wires and potentially uh you know supply some stuff up so I'm just cutting the connector ends off again I've never done this before so I may be screwing up roles royally but we shall see and then we're just gonna chase all these wires back to wherever the hell they're going and that'll be that like a wire right so we're just going to do that the rest of the way back to the harness and that'll be that we have now removed all the wires that will be removed completely and now we need to identify all of the wires that we still need that will have to be run to an external source most of which will be coming from this big-block connector or this guy I don't know the the official labeling of those but that's what they look like in my situation so we're gonna use LT one swap commas this reference we're going to use the light blue aqua color that those are the ones that we need to retain but just clip the ends of clip the ends of them off and label them so it's saying number 37 on the we're on the red we're gonna go to number 37 it's a brown and white I've found what I'm trying to pin stuff out if you if you take it and push it push the wire in that way it'll poke out and then you can just set it down and then I'm going to come over here I'm just going to look through these other ones there's no brown and white there and you get the big block here and we've got some brown and whites here we go right here we've got this one might be a black and white we're gonna try this one this one looks like brown and white we've got some other brown wires don't see a white stripe they seem a little thicker so I'm willing to bet that this is the one so we've got our multimeter just set to uh you know ohms just checking continuity on the backside we are two over four down so one two three four and then since we have poked out our pin on the connector it's really easy to find come back to and that's it so now we're just going to snip it we're gonna snip that if there's some tape on there with a label and that is our mi L control mi L that's going to be your check engine light and so you're just going to do that for the whole list here all of the aqua colored ones the light blue and at that point you should have a standalone harness so I'll be right back and there it is just like that everything is out of the block connector it's all here ready to terminate it's all labeled something to know all of the pink wires there's a lot of them all of the pink wires in this block connector our 12-volt switched they're all 12-volt when the ignitions on there are two orange wires in this bundle [Music] there's one of them there's another one in there those are constant 12 volt then there's a couple other different colored ones in my situation I couldn't find a pin out for this plug for a 1998 Corvette so it took some digging it took a lot of just pinning out on the multimeter I mean really it added a few minutes it really wasn't that bad and I've gone ahead and taped up you know at least the the larger branches just so they stay there but that's it I mean we should be good [Music] standalone ls1 1998 out of a Corvette delete it all automatic transmission so this should you know this setup would be good for a manual or a manual or non electric automatic so there's all the loom that came off ignore those those are my coil wires there's the wires that came out a bunch of transmission stuff emissions stuff and this is what we have left so honestly guys this is first time I've ever done this it was pretty intimidating to start I've never done I mean I'm you know I miss with wiring here and there but nothing you know with this many freaking wires and it's really not bad if I can do it you can do it especially if you have something more common if you if you're doing a 5-3 or you know not an oddball 1998 Corvette this should be a walk in the park because all of the informations there f-body stuff truck stuff the more common stuff it's all there I ran into a few little issues but we're there we're done you know I gotta put some more tape on it and some places put some loom on it but that's it and that's all there is to it if I can do it you can do it until next time guys have it going
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Channel: Cheeky Garage
Views: 370,780
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Length: 22min 26sec (1346 seconds)
Published: Sun Feb 16 2020
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