My COMPLETE Sony a7R V Photo and Video Settings!

setting the Sony a7r5 up for photo and video I'm a run and Gun photographer and filmmaker that covers a wide range of different events and because I use my camera in such a hybrid fashion my a7r5 is going to be used in the same way so in this video we're going to go through all the different photo and video settings that I've set up in my a7r5 and that you may want to consider utilizing as well now maybe a couple of different points before I begin number one even though I'm going to be going through a lot of different settings and options in the camera I might not touch on every single thing therefore if you do come across something that I don't talk about it's more than likely because I'm leaving it as the default value that Sony has provided but if you do have any questions about specific features in the camera feel free to utilize one of Sony's two Health guides either their official online help guide which I will link to in the description below or the actual built-in Health assistance that Sony provides via the trash can button when you're navigating the menus this will be a varying degrees of usefulness depending on what feature you're looking at but it is something to definitely consider if you're looking to learn a bit more about what this camera can do and number two if you do wish to just load all these settings that I've set up here in one go you can visit my website which I will link to below or I have a link to the specific settings file that you can load on your memory card and load in this camera directly that said there's a lot of different options here and so you may want to customize things to your own liking and so that's why we are going to go through each and everything here so let's begin alright so I have my a7r5 here in the photo mode currently and so we are now going to enter the menu now a couple of things I want to point out once we enter the menus so you're going to notice the my menu setting where you are able to basically add a number of different items from the menu system into your own form of a quick menu so you can access maybe the five or ten most common things that you usually would set or utilize within the camera this is definitely a personal choice if you want to use the my menu option or what you would necessarily want to put in there so I'm not going to dig in too deep here and I will leave that as something you can explore on your own that said one thing worth calling out within some of these newer Sony bodies is the main or sort of quick menu options they have added by default in these cameras what you're going to notice here is that Sony has already included a main menu option that includes I would say 80 to 90 percent of some of the most common functions photographers and videographers would use or need to access and set on the fly when shooting in a number of different scenarios then again this is just what Sony's provided by default and their Assumption of what most folks would access so if you do have any differences or things that you'd like to see and would more commonly like to utilize or change we'll have a number of other opportunities later on to set that and to customize the camera in different ways all right so let's first move on to the shooting menu section first thing here we're going to go over to the image quality and recording option and you'll see the jpeg heif switch this basically will let you choose if you want to shoot common jpegs or heif equivalent images which get you closer to sort of an HDR image now jpegs are the least quality option here and heif has come a long way in terms of support even just within the past year but I typically just choose to leave this on JPEG and if I want a higher quality option that I'm going to really use to edit later and do more post processing with I'm going to leave that to Raw images which we'll talk about in a bit next is the main image quality settings option which we're going to talk through a few different things here so in the camera you're going to have the option to shoot either raw jpeg or raw and jpeg photos in my case I usually like to choose both raw and jpeg and this is usually because of a couple reasons number one of course raw is going to allow for the most flexibility in terms of being edit and push and pull that image in a program say like Lightroom classic or photoshop but jpegs are a nice quick option if you want to pull a quick photo or two off of camera to give to someone say in a quick shooting scenario whether that's real estate or a concert and you don't necessarily want or have a lot of time to do post-processing on that if I were only picking one I would normally just go with raw but a lot of my gigs I will do raw and jpeg just to have that option when it comes to the raw file typer again going to have a number of options here so you have really a few different flavors of Raw to consider within the camera the best option you're going to have in the camera in terms of quality is uncompressed raw this is going to be really a very massively large file size in terms of the photos you're taking but if you're shooting a subject that has a lot of detail or any gig where you know a photo is going to get blown up later or highly pixel peep to the nth degree this is something where uncompressed raw is really good because you don't want to necessarily cut any Corners in terms of the quality you're capturing now at the other end of the spectrum is going to be compressed raw and this is something that's going to get you this smallest file size you can get while also allowing for the highest frames per second that you can shoot in the camera with the mechanical shutter which in this case is 10 frames per second honestly I don't think the quality difference is incredibly huge and for a lot of quick run and Gun gigs whether that's real estate or very quick sort of event portrait work I think compressed raw is actually a very suitable option and I often leave my camera compressed raw a good chunk of the time now a good middle ground that Sony came up with within the past year that's also on the a74 is the lossless compressed raw option which again is sort of providing a blend in terms of file size between pure uncompressed raw and compressed raw but being lossless in terms of compression is supposed to maintain a better degree of detail compared to say compressed raw there's certainly a lot of options that you can play with here but I would say if you want the highest quality and are not concerned about size or speed and needing to go fast with shooting uncompressed raw is going to be your best bet and conversely if you're more concerned with saving card size or getting the fastest speed you can out of the camera with its mechanical shutter I would lean more towards compressed raw and again if you need sort of a middle ground here you can play around with the different lossless compressed options but just to quickly demonstrate what I'm talking about on the speed side here let's say we were to go with compressed raw and I changed the drive mode not from single shooting but to high shooting and essentially the highest setting that we can let's just do some continuous shooting here now whether you can tell or not that was 10 frames per second shooting where the highest the camera will go with its mechanical shutter now if we were to instead change this back over to say one of the lossless compressed formats you're going to notice a reduction in the speed here such as or again if we change this to go from lossless compressed to say uncompressed raw you're going to notice the same slower speed so yes the type of raw you select is going to impact how fast you can shoot in the camera using its mechanical shutter so making sure we change this back to compressed raw if we move on to jpeg quality this is only relevant if you're shooting jpeg I tend to leave this on extra fine mostly because jpeg is a fairly lossy format anyway to begin with and so I want to maintain as much detail as I can if and when I'm actually shooting jpegs that said in terms of jpeg image size you do have a few options you can choose here whether that is the largest or utilizing the 60 61 megapixels of the sensor the medium size which is 26 megapixels or a small which is 15 megapixels again if you're shooting something that's really quick delivery and you don't need something that's particularly high quality and jpegs are suitable you can maybe utilize the medium or small option here but typically again I might leave this just at the large setting and changes if and when I need to now once we move on to the aspect ratio section I'm going to leave this at three over two this is sort of the standard format most photos are in and I think there is no reason to really change this in terms of some of the remaining file format options that you can see here these pertain to movie shooting and we're going to skip over that and cover that later APS use super 35 shooting we're going to actually leave that off by default we're going to set this a bit later to use as a custom button so we'll come back to that in a bit but typically by default I would want this off and not activated long exposure noise reduction I believe the default as on this is going to essentially process some noise reduction if you're shooting a long exposure shot say something that's dark so it will take a little bit longer to process the photo and camera but I do think it can be useful to actually apply High ISO noise reduction I'm also going to leave as the default here is normal and not change anything there again this could have an impact on processing time but I do think it is useful color space we're going to leave that as the standard srgb and for lens compensation we're going to leave this as the default values here as well now if we go back to the media settings options we're going to have a few things of course format is where you would go to format your card depending on which slot it's in we're not going to do that now but just helpful to know this is something you'll certainly come back to so with record media settings this is where we can choose how we want to handle say maybe simultaneous recording if we want redundant copies of different things that we're shooting or to be able to auto switch from one car to the other if one card fills up again to exemplify this quickly if we wanted to write photos to two cards at once we could go in say on the photo side and choose simultaneous recording we could do very much a similar thing on the video side as well and if we wanted to ensure that when one card filled up the other began being used almost instantaneously we would go into auto switch media and turn that to on in this case I don't really know your particular settings and because I'm only using one card at the moment here I'm just going to keep this utilizing slot 1 and keep auto switch media off but again depending on your card setup and how you plan to utilize the camera this is something you might want to consider changing for the most part we can pretty much move on from here though display media info will also show you how much you have remaining on each card in terms of photos and video time left available so this can be a helpful thing that you'll typically also see this on the main display when you're shooting as well so just another place you can also access this information all right now when we go over to file and folder settings there's maybe a couple things we'll want to consider here for file number I will typically go to reset rather than series and this ensures that basically every time you shoot with the camera and you're starting from a newly formatted card you're starting from say the very first zero one type photo rather than kind of continuously incrementing a series of numbers this will mean that your different cameras when you're shooting them will all sort of begin at one rather than starting at different numbers of however many photos they've taken over their lifetime but I think that's ultimately fine though you might have your own preference here for what you choose now you can also choose a custom file name here by default photos start with the essay and I happen to think this is fine with that said you can choose your own naming scheme say if you have multiple different cameras and you want to distinguish one camera from another so maybe you start one with a7r5 one with a74 Etc so you know which camera is which from here I'm not going to talk about too much more but a couple of quick points to note if you do wish to write certain copyright information to each photo that you take you can actually set that you are the photographer taking those photos you can set your own copyright notice on these photos and ultimately this will get written to the metadata of each photo that you take so this could be something if you want to sort of have a way of watermarking or stamping that these photos of your own in case they get passed around without your knowledge that is something you can do and in a very similar vein you can also choose to write the serial number of your cam right to each photo to be added as metadata so again if you want that information on there I don't think it's particularly needed in this case so I'm going to leave it as the default of off now when it comes to shooting mode this is where we can utilize the camera memory recall settings which I'm not going to talk about in too much detail here this is definitely useful if you do a lot of settings changes between different types of shooting gigs and events so something to keep in mind for later but we will talk about that in a future video now when it comes to drive mode we've already sort of touched on some of the different options that we have here typically I'm going to be in single shooting mode which is just shooting one photograph at a time though again if we want to shoot kind of higher frame rate burst this is when we go into the continuous shooting High mode again High plus is going to be the fastest but again depending on how quick you want your burst to be this is something that you can control from here you have other options such as a self timer say if you want to take a selfie and put the camera on a tripod or take any time shots one thing that could be useful is using the bracketed options in the camera depending on what type of shooting situation you're in now to activate that I would actually have to turn off picture profiles in the camera which we might talk about in a bit and then once I do that I can go back into drive mode and say if I want to choose brackets and say I can choose to shoot a bracket of five images with a total of two stops between each shot this is something I utilize a lot when it comes to real estate photography if you're trying to do maybe the HDR image workflow and I have an entire separate video on this channel about real estate photography that I will link to above and in the description below that you can check out so again a number of different options to choose from here I am normally utilizing single shooting perhaps with a mix of high shooting for different types of sports action or sort of one take events that you don't have an opportunity to capture again say if you miss them and again maybe utilizing brackets in certain cases such as with real estate where you want to combine multiple images into one shot later in post but we'll just sing just back to single shooting for now again we just sort of talked about bracket settings one thing I will typically do is make sure to set a self timer during bracket which will basically give you a bit of a cushion if you're taking a photo so let's say if your camera's on a tripod once you hit the shutter button you won't have any shake from the tripod introduced into your photos because you're waiting a couple seconds before the shots are actually taken maybe 10 seconds is useful if you're shooting a room say with me years and you need to quickly get out of the shot but definitely a useful setting I at least usually keep it as two seconds as a default the rest of the things here I'm going to leave essentially as the default now when it comes to interval shooting this is actually something that's useful if you want to say take a collage or a series of images say for a time lapse and combine them later in post in some way I actually think snq mode is maybe an easier route for some people if you're trying to approach time lapses for the first time to get them combined in camera and I do have a separate video on this channel that again I'll link to above in the description below that you can check out needless to say I'm not going to go in depth here in terms of the different options you have in terms of being able to set this for a particular time lapse but this is where you would go to set this if you wanted to shoot a photographic time lapse in the camera now something cool that the a7r5 can do is the pixel ship multi-shoot mode this is going to take basically the full width of the sensor allow you to take either four or even up to 16 different shots that you can combine as raw images later in post to form an even higher quality megapixel image so say in the case of four images not just one 61 megapixel shot but say a 264 megapixel shot when all said and done something I haven't really as much and probably won't in most practical cases but it is there if and when you need it so now we're going to go into the shutter silent settings for silent mode settings typically you're going to want silent mode off this is because of silent mode we're on it would basically be utilizing the electronic shutter in the camera which we really don't want to use in terms of pretty much anything else here like the target function settings I'm going to leave this as is just as you see here with the shutter type as we just noticed we're going to want to utilize the mechanical shutter because again the electronic shutter in this camera is not quite up to par with say something like the A1 so we want to really utilize the mechanical shutter for most photo situations that we're taking electronic front curtain shutter I will leave as on as a default and pretty much most of these are also defaults in terms of release without lens or at least without card we'll just leave these as they were set by the factory Now anti-flicker setting could be potentially useful and is something we're definitely going to touch back on when it comes to video basically if you're encountering any weird flickering or sort of color banding when you're taking shots in a particular environment you may want to try turning that on and see if that makes a difference for the most part though I don't encounter too much issue with this on the photo side and so I typically leave it off as it is by default now once we go over to image stabilization we have the option to turn that on and much like we would want this on for video in most cases I'm going to leave this on for photo as well and pretty much always ensure it is on and then steady shot adjustment here we're going to leave this as Auto so it will automatically detect what and how to utilize this depending on the lens we're using assume I'm going to mostly skip for right now we might touch back on this when we get to video in a bit and then when it comes to shooting display again you can sort of choose here what you want to show on screen when you're shooting different things I typically utilize the rule of thirds grid all the time when it comes to photo and video to help frame up shots in a particular third here this is something that actually doesn't come across on the HDMI feed of the camera so I'll try to get a shot of this separately but again you can choose different options here like the square Grid or diagonal and square grid depending on what your needs are I do think rule of thirds is helpful at least in my case and of course if we're utilizing one of these like the rule of thirds we are going to want to make sure grid line display is therefore on so it will get displayed the other thing I do want to talk about of course is live view display setting this is pretty much something you're going to want to turn on here and this is going to be really important when it comes to photography in a lot of different cases let me explain why so right now if we go back to the main menu here you will see that I've actually added to the function menu which we'll cover later I have live view displays set to on what this ensures is that the actual exposure value the camera is seeing and metering and the white balance that's detecting is displayed on the LCD screen in the viewfinder but let's say for a second we were to instead turn this off if I were to then say maybe change the exposure drastically and really make this image dark changing the shutter here to 1 over 800. let's say rather than the white balance we set a 4500 I want to make this go to something a lot more drastic like 9900 though the image looks the same here on screen and hasn't changed much it actually looks very very different in terms of what we're capturing this is sort of like the old school DSLR view you used to see when you look through the viewfinder but this is something we probably really don't want and we want to actually utilize the benefits of a mirrorless camera here by leaving this on so you'll notice if I go ahead and turn live view back on again the image is much darker and you notice the white balance is definitely off from what it was before and that's because it is actually showing what the camera is capturing rather than sort of a view where exposure and white balance is unimpacted so again we can change this back that's not particularly an issue here this is why we're mostly going to want to leave live you on nearly all the time one other point of note here for live view is the exposure effect setting I typically leave this to exposure set and Flash and this is so that if you're utilizing a flash with the camera it's also going to adjust the screen for any difference that the flash would compensate for say if you're shooting in a dark environment and the Flash would bring up the ambient light from that when you're shooting therefore you're not seeing a completely dark image on screen when you're shooting something rather you're going to get sort of an exposure adjusted scene compared to what the flash would actually capture when you're taking the photo if you're someone that never uses a flash you can change it to exposure setting only but I think there's generally no harm in leaving it to exposure setting on flash since it should only work when it detects a flash in the hot shoe okay so now that we are out of the shooting menu let's go over to the exposure and color setting a number of things here we're going to skip and talk about more so on the video side but I do want to touch on a few different things of course in the main exposure section you have ISO where yes you can set the actual ISO of the camera but something most people don't know is the iso range limit that exists so this is where in the camera if you do choose to limit and set a different minimum or maximum and say the camera allows by default you can choose to maybe select a higher minimum value ISO that you would let the camera start at or you can choose a lower maximum value if you want to prevent noise in certain situations I tend to leave this at the default of the full range of the iso values but something you can choose to set if you want to in terms of a setting that's also related that doesn't get talked about much if we were to go into the main ISO value and go all the way down to ISO Auto what you will see here is actually a separate ISO Auto minimum and ISO Auto maximum and you'll notice these are defined and slightly more restricted terms a bit of a higher minimum and certainly a lower maximum to prevent noise here again this is where you could set this and change this to different values if you so choose I again also leave this typically at the default because bear in mind that ISO Auto minimum and maximum is different from the full ISO range minimum and maximum that we just showed going back here if we go to exposure compensation I don't really do much with exposure compensation so I will leave this as is for metering I do think it is used full to utilize and I certainly utilize the multimeter which you will see here on screen as I'm now pointing to multi-mode I would say is useful in most cases as this is going to utilize the entire kind of balance of exposure of the screen to gauge what your exposure is but if you do wish to choose just the center of the screen or pick a certain point then locate that to judge exposure this is where you can change those settings I also do leave face priority multimeter on so that it's choosing to evaluate the exposure of faces when utilizing the multimeter pretty much the rest of this I'm going to leave as is Flash settings are a bit interesting here I'm not going to cover them too much in depth so definitely let me know if you'd like to see something on maybe a basics in terms of flash photography setup because I could run through that say with a camera like the a7r5 and maybe my godox v1s and show what I typically do on some of these flash photography gigs with white balance I'm actually going to skip and come back to this when we go back into video mode because we have a few things to talk about there and for color and tone I'm going to definitely do the same in terms of picture profiles here I like a lot of video Shooters tend to leave dynamic range optimizer off as these are things we typically don't want to mess with in terms of say when we're setting manual exposure and this is also true when I'm usually doing manual exposure on the photography side when it comes to creative looks this is something where I will just leave it as standard as sort of the default but generally I'm not going to utilize too much on the creative look side yes you can get some interesting looks here in camera particularly if you're doing things with photos but by and large these are things I would all want to generally do say in post with something like Lightroom classic and different presets that I have just to tweak the photo manually so I'm not going to do too much here as I mentioned picture profiles we're going to touch on at a later point and same goes for soft skin effect and with zebras we're going to also touch back on that on the video side later as well now when it comes to the autofocus and manual focus side we're going to touch on a number of things again when we go dive into the video menus but there are maybe a few things worth calling out on the photo side as well typically when it comes to focus mode there are a number of things you can choose from when it comes to photography and autofocus and Sony cameras I think continuous autofocus is a great safe place to land and if you're utilizing autofocus and video you're going to pretty much be utilizing continuous autofocus all the time so this is definitely a great analog in parallel that will work just as well on the photo land that said single shot autofocus is also something that's fairly useful and I will use this at different times manual focus comes in handy but I tend to use this more so for video than anything so something you can leave on is continuous autofocus by default autofocus single shine continuous have balanced emphasis here and I will leave this as those are set by default autofocus tracking sensitivity is set by default as the sort of middle of the road standard value and I think this is fine certainly for photo so we're going to leave that as is autofocus Illuminator I tend to leave this as Auto as well this is going to produce a red light if you're shooting the camera in a dark situation and in fact a lot of flash units that you will provide on your camera will also sort of mimic this if it's set to Auto but again you can turn this off in your flash unit and that'll therefore kind of turn it off in the camera then if you have a flash attached so I tend to think Auto is okay but again if this is something that's bothering you in different situations you can always go in here and turn that off aperture drive and AF we will leave that as standard and autofocus with shutter we will leave that as on as well again we're going to leave these values as the default as well now when it comes to focus area I'm typically using the wide Focus area but again again you have a number of things like Zone and Center fix and spot and different sizes of spot that you can utilize when in doubt auto focus continuous and wide is sort of my go-to for 90 some percent of gigs and situations and it really works well in so many different cases particularly a Sony autofocus has gotten even better and better over time and this camera is no exception to that Focus area limit this is where you can actually choose to set what different types of focus areas you want to allow in the camera or Not by default all of these are enabled and I see no reason to limit or turn these off so I will just leave that as is focus area color I am comfortable with white you can choose red if you like but I think white is sort of unobtrusive and is fine for the screen and you can also choose to register different autofocus areas in the camera say for quick recall I don't tend to use this much and don't think it's particularly applicable unless you're using it in certain situations like with sports so I tend to leave this as off but again something you could Explore More if you so choose and for the rest of these settings I'm pretty much going to leave them at their defaults here now subject recognition when it comes to this camera actually has a lot of different things available to it I would say the autofocus capable release of the a7r5 are almost worth their own video within themselves so maybe we'll save that for a different video but definitely worth noting that you want to have the subject recognition on so that you're detecting different autofocus subjects if and when they come into frame this is also where you can change the recognition Target from human to animal bird to insects to different objects like cars trains and airplanes and each of these has their own granular set of different settings that you can choose human I would say is relatively straightforward I would leave this as the tracking shift range is standard and pretty much I'm going to be in human mode a vast majority of the time for the recognition Target selection setting I'm going to make sure that it can detect all the different options that the camera allows right left eye select I usually leave this as Auto but again if you do wish to choose which specific eye it's focusing on in a particular scene say maybe if you have someone leaning towards a particular side of the frame or with one side of the face closer to the other this is where you could set which eye it's trying to auto focus on for the rest of these I'm pretty much going to leave them at their defaults I would say one thing we will touch back on is the focus magnifier settings but we're going to do this in the video mode so we will come back to that in a bit now in terms of peaking display this is also something we're going to cover on the video side so we will touch back on that in a bit so up to this point we've now covered the main bulk of the photo related settings in the camera let's now switch over to the video mode on the mode dial and Now cover the video specific settings that the a7r5 has alright and so now we have switched into the video mode so let's go back into the menu here and cover all of those video specific settings that are a bit different from the photo ones that we covered now again as you're going to notice we have the my menu setting here same thing applies if we wanted to choose different menu items to add but we're going to mostly leave that as is but again one thing you will notice here if we go back is that you will see a main menu that now has video specific settings so in this case many of the similar ones around the exposure triangle but in this case we have frame rate that's now available to us we have of course picture profiles added we have the different codec that's getting used the bitrate and chroma sub sampling mic volume and all these other different effects so again Sony's provided sort of a quick menu here that you can utilize for many of the common settings but again we're going to customize this even more through different custom buttons and function menus on the camera but definitely something that you might want to keep in mind and make use of all right so when we go back into the shooting menu here when it comes to video you're going to notice some slight differences when it comes to file format and of course some differences here that exist on the video side when it comes to file format of course you have a few different codecs you can utilize in these Sony cameras xavcs is sort of the tried and true gold standard h.264 option that's been in Sony cameras for a number of years it is a very safe bet and a tried and true codec that I like to use for a lot of different things xavc HS is an h.265 codec option that is a bit newer compared to h.264 and is going to save you a bit on space but could be harder to read in some cases depending on circumstances xavcsi is going to be a great all intra codec that gives you the highest quality in this case that the camera can shoot but is going to have the largest file sizes by default but itself might be a bit easier to edit say compared to xavchs ultimately there's a lot of different options here I'm going to tell you a couple of my particular favorites what I like to typically do is shoot xavchs in 4k and typically when I'm shooting that I will use the record setting of 10 bit 422 so getting 10 bit color so you have the most color information that the camera can capture and 422 chroma sub sampling which again is going to capture the widest amount of information that the camera can it's particularly useful if you're going to shoot log later and going to want to really recover and do a lot of pushing and pulling with color than say you would if you were just shooting an in-camera color picture profile that said another really good option here and something that I had another viewer in my a74 video mentioned and in fact I will find that comment and throw it on screen here just for reference is the fact that the xavc HS option in 10-bit color but 420 chroma sub sampling is another really good option here this is something that's going to save on space as well and give you a good amount of color information on the 10-bit side but might be easier to work with on your computer being 420 chroma sub sampling as were a lot of these different performance implications tend to happen it's on the chroma sub sampling side with 422 specifically at least as far as I've noticed and in fact if you're shooting xavchs and 8K that is pretty much going to be your only option which is to shoot for 2 oh 10-bit color but something to keep in mind that you have in terms of different codec options now again movie settings I typically like to shoot 24 frames per second but you could choose 30 if you'd like to have sort of that more active video look 60 frames per second is great if you're going to do any slow motion work in the camera but again to get the most classic cinematic type of look I'm typically going with 24 frames per second now of course we talked about record setting and bit depth and chroma sub sampling again sticking with 42210 bit here but you do have other options 4208 bit especially if you're shooting with an in-cam of picture profile like senatone might end up being just fine depending on that but I tend to like to have the most color information that I can snq settings are sort of worth their own video here and yes in fact I have two different videos on S and Q settings both for time lapses and slow motion which again I will link to above and in the description below for the most part I have my basic settings set here just to be in a 24 frames per second recording frame rate a frame rate of s and Q of one frame per second so basically capturing only one frame per second when filming and then again pretty much choosing the same record settings in terms of bit depth chroma sub sampling and the bitrate that we talked about earlier this allows for sort of a generic way to capture a time lapse within the camera let's say but again there's a lot of different things you can do with snq mode I'd highly recommend checking out those videos and exploring it more one thing to keep in mind is if you're going to shoot slow motion with snq mode is the fact that this does not capture audio where say as if you are capturing 4K 60 just natively in the camera not in snq mode you will have audio with it this is why in a lot of cases when it comes to slow motion I'm typically just shooting 4K 60 regularly in the camera and not doing it in s and Q mode because I never know when I might want to utilize the different audio that was going on whether it's just random ambient audio or if I was specifically trying to record something and maybe I'm only slowing down a couple of different scenes or I want to ignore audio from here on the video side you also have what is known as proxy settings or proxy recording this is again maybe useful if you're shooting something like high quality 4K and xavcsi or 8K and you want to have smaller file sizes and a lower quality codec to work with in your editor that's a bit easier for your computer to process most cases I will let my non-linear editing software handle this in my case Final Cut Pro and I will make proxies separately yes I do have a separate video on that you can also check that out if you're a Final Cut Pro user so I don't really do much with in-camera proxies here but this is something where if you wanted to have those captured when you're shooting the regular high quality footage you could set that in the camera here now when it comes to aps-c crop mode shooting we're going to cover this later with a custom button so we'll bypass that now and leave it off lens compensation though is going to be one particularly useful feature when it comes to specifically the breathing compensation feature so you'll notice here in this case I will have it set by off to default but this is something that we're going to set in the function menu that we can toggle on because this is something that's actually very useful for eliminating Focus breathing with certain lenses that are in the Sony system like some of their primes that tend to exhibit this more than others I actually have a separate short on this channel that I covered for the a74 that talks about this feature a bit more this is something you're definitely going to want to have handy to toggle off and on when you're dealing with certain Sony lenses that support this feature so you can minimize sort of that shift that occurs when it's trying to autofocus on different subjects when it comes to the media settings we largely covered everything here on the photo side that will still apply when it comes to the video side as well so we're going to mostly move on from here in this case on the file settings side again we're going to have the ability to write serial number to the video files if we want to add to the metadata but I leave this off by default file settings again is a very similar thing I will set this to reset and this is again so we're starting at sort of zero zero one when it comes to a freshly formatted card of shooting video files rather than kind of always Auto incrementing some larger and larger number when it comes to shooting clips and yes also here you can choose to reset that counter if you need to and you were shooting in series instead and yes the title name settings you can choose to set as well to a custom value by default video files begin with C but again you can set this to a camera name or some other custom format if you so choose from here when it comes to shooting mode again we're going to mostly leave this as is again memory recall is something we would cover in a different video shutter and silent again will mostly skip over some of these things but when it comes to anti-flicker setting one that is notable is the variable shutter set setting we're going to actually add this to the function menu later so we can toggle this on or off more easily but this is something that can be very useful in certain video situations say if you're filming an LED display or a cheap light that tends to exhibit a lot of flickering so this is something I'll regularly utilize to sort of eliminate in some of those cases and it's probably going to be a lot more useful on the video side than say the regular anti-flicker setting that exists on the photo side only and yes if you do want to get a little bit closer to the proper 180 shutter degree Rule and shoot a 1 over 48 shutter speed instead of A1 over 50 as you typically do in these mirrorless cameras the variable shutter setting also has a little bit of a hack for that which yes I did do a separate video on I will again link to that above and in the description below I know we have a lot of these but that's what happens when you've had a channel for a few years from here audio recording we're going to mostly ensure that yes we do want to record audio of course audio record level I usually leave the preamps pretty low generally at a level of five and this is because I'm usually utilizing a shotgun mic like my rode videomic ntg with the camera that said if I'm not and I'm just using the built-in mic to capture scratch audio I will usually leave this at a level of say 15 or so I don't want to leave it too high because then we'll have a lot of clipping that occurs so I do particularly leave this low but again you can adjust this if and when you need to by default we will leave audio out timing to live and not touch that since that is the default value when noise reduction I do turn to off specifically rather than say Auto or on this is because I want to granularly control what's happening with the audio in many cases and maybe say add a windsock or something over my shotgun mic and make sure that I'm monitoring sort of the wind noise with the audio rather than having the camera control that for me just to make sure that there's again a good level of granular control over what's being captured time code presets we're not going to worry about too much here but yes if you do wish to run time code or have some sort of setup for that with the camera this is where you would typically set that image stabilization much like that exists on the photo side this is also very useful on the video side as well one thing you notice is that you'll have the addition here of not just standard and off but also active steady shot mode and this will add a 1.1 times crop to the image but will help in terms of further stabling out your shot and basically making sure that whatever you're filming as your hands are moving are remaining more stable than say if you were to just use standard steady shot stabilization again in terms of being able to toggle this a bit more easily we will talk about that in some of the custom settings later Zoom here there's not too much I'm going to do other than in fact for the zoom range if I do ever tend to use or want to use zoom range I'm going to want to use clear image Zoom this is really going to be the highest quality option for using any sort of built-in Zoom functionality in the camera though by and large I'm not going to use this too often because there are implications around kind of lessened autofocus capability when you're utilizing zoom in fact in most cases we're going to use a PSC crop mode to kind of get a little bit of extra reach out of lens as if and when we need to but again we'll cover that in a bit otherwise going down going to shooting display we covered the grid line display and the grid line type that we're using one thing on the video side that is worth definitely setting is the emphasize record display which is set to on here this basically ensures that when we hit the record button you will see a red line come around display that makes it very obvious and easy to see that you are recording otherwise you would just have the red text in the top center of the screen which might be easier to miss say if you're just quickly glancing at the camera and of course when you stop recording the red line and the display goes away so again something very helpful to turn on that Sony's had in their camera since the A7 S3 and that I would recommend using going back into the shooting menu going to the marker display this is something where you could choose different markers to utilize if that is useful to you if there's one that you will typically see utilize it is the 235 to 1 option this sort of gives the wide screen or sort of anamorphic look effect that you will typically see in a lot of cases I don't use this personally but you might want to make sure that you have one of these set if you're intending to crop your video in one of these different aspect ratios later so that you know what you're actually capturing will be in that shot and be in frame later otherwise if we go down to shooting option there is the self timer feature but we're going to leave that off when it comes to video and pretty much from here we can now move on to exposure and color again we pretty much covered ISO and the iso range limits so there's not too much more to talk about there exposure compensation is not going to be particularly relevant when it comes to video shooting so we're going to move on from there metering again we mostly covered this and again this is going to be useful I would say in video mode as well where I'm typically realizing the multi setting of The multimeter in terms of some of the other options that are available and yes we do want face priority multimetering still on and I'm typically going to use the spot metering point of the center here so yes the multimeter is still going to be useful engaging exposure on the video side as well now when it comes to white balance this is where this is going to be actually a bit more relevant especially when it comes to the video side white balance and photo I'm typically just leaving as Auto white balance 99 of the time and that's more than adequate on the photo side because it's relatively trivial to change white balance particularly when you're shooting Raw photos with video white balance you'll see I'm on the color temperature filter option right now but I will typically toggle this maybe from that to Auto white balance in certain situations or if you're maybe less comfortable with setting a Kelvin value you can use some of the built-in presets here ultimately we'll want the ability to sort of toggle and change this later so we're going to program one of the buttons on the camera itself so that we can easily access white balance later beyond that I believe priority set and auto white balance to standard which is the default and when it comes to the shockless white balance feature which is actually useful this is going to control how quickly white balance values change from one color temperature to another say if you're utilizing Auto white balance I tend to leave this as fast because again I'm not utilizing Auto weight balance too much on the video side and on the photo end I do want it to change relatively quickly based on where I am and what I'm shooting but if you are shooting video more so in Auto weight balance and you want sort of a very gradual shift so you don't notice any dramatic changes here that might be a case where you want to change this instead to maybe the slow setting or play around with different values here beyond that let's now go down to the color and tone setting we talked a bit about dynamic range optimizer and why I want to leave that off in most cases and again creative look I'm not going to utilize much when it comes to video or even photo frankly that said on the picture profile side we do have a few things we want to cover here in terms of the different things I will typically utilize so when your picture profile is off in the photo mode you are utilizing what's known as The Stills gamma now if you leave picture profile off on the video mode this is going to use the movie gamma and again movie gamma and movie color I think looks good in a lot of cases but there are better picture profiles out there when it comes to shooting video so when it comes comes to these newer Sony cameras and the picture profiles and Gamma curves that are available and built in I am typically utilizing one of two things if I want to shoot with the highest amount of dynamic range possible and basically get an image that I will grade and do a lot more finessing within Post in that case I'm going to utilize picture profile 8 and s-log 3 and S gamma 3. cine and we'll pretty much leave this as the default value as is set from the factory here the only really thing otherwise noting is that detail is set to -7 and again this is going to eliminate adding any sharpening in the camera because sharpening is relatively trivial to add in post if and when you want to add it but definitely a bit of a different story when you want to remove that now if I'm not shooting an s-log 3 and S gamma 3 destiny that typically means I want to utilize an in-camera color picture profile that is almost as is and nearly ready to go and in which case I will utilize picture profile 11 which by default in these newer Sony cameras is a cinetone I do make a couple of adjustments here by default though compared to what the camera comes with from the factory I do find snotone has a bit more green in terms of the color profile than I would typically like and so because of that I add a color fade value of Plus 3 to shift that more onto the magenta side of things this is something I've done to some degree with most of my recent Sony cameras my A7 S3 has a color phase adjustment of plus two for Senator tone my a74 has one of plus four the second thing I will typically change is to go down to the detail setting and rather than negative five which is the default value for senatone change that to negative seven so again adding no sharpening to this picture profile and camera and making sure that any of that would be done later in post if we wanted it and that will pretty much Encompass how I set and utilize most of the picture profiles in these cameras generally as sanitone will get used for anything that is very quick delivery and something where I don't want to spend too much time color grading because nearly out of camera it looks almost ready to go maybe adding just a little bit of saturation and contrast if and where needed with s-log 3 that's just going to give you the most flexibility in terms of being able to color grade an image and give you of course the most dynamic range as well I think roughly a 1.5 times of additional stops of highlight and Shadow detail compared to say a cinetone though again a lot of it just depends on what you're doing how much time you want to put into color grading how much you value actually getting a ready to go image out of camera versus being able to do that and put a bit more work in and post and so on from here we can go back to the menu and we'll just talk briefly about the soft skin effect now I would pretty much never use this myself but yes I do have a short on this channel that covers what this feature does in terms of the a74 it's going to be the same for the a7r5 in terms of being able to remove any sort of blemishes or rough patches when it comes to skin and complexion maybe some of the lower settings would be useful here but I wouldn't go too extreme with this particularly if you're just trying it out fun fact though the last time this was in any R series camera was in the a7r II so seven eight years later now we have it returned to the a7r5 going back here from the color and tone option we have the zebra display and again typically in this case I believe zebras off by default but again this can be very useful if you're trying to monitor clipping highlights and ensure that you don't go over a certain threshold when you're safe filming video or using a particular picture profile that might be a bit more difficult to expose ultimately we're going to make zebras accessible for controlling through the function menu later so we'll move off of this for now but we'll come back to it in a bit now from here going down from the exposure color to the focus section we're going to have a few different things based on the video side compared to what we saw on the photo side again in terms of focus mode we'll want to stick with continuous autofocus you'll notice a lot less options here when it comes to the video side of things but yes continuous autofocus Works incredibly well on the photo side and it is just as good if not even better on the video side so yes we will also make this a bit easier to control and turn off say if we want to toggle between that and manual focus and we will do so through some custom function buttons that we'll show a bit later now on the video side we actually get a couple of different speed and sensitivity related settings so at least one more that we would get compared to what we saw on the photo side autofocus transition speed is going to basically determine how quickly Focus shifts from one subject to another depending on what's in frame or what it's trying to focus on I tend to like this at the middle of the road value of four even though Sony by default sets this as five I think four allows for the most sort of organic looking autofocus shifting compared to say if you want something that mimics say a manual focus focus rack so I tend to leave this at that middle of the road setting at the same time as we talked about previously autofocus subject shift Sensitivity I want to leave this at the three value so again a middle of the road value that isn't hopping too frequently from one subject to another but also isn't far too locked on to something but again we might want the ability to toggle both of these different autofocus attributes later and that's why we're going to make these accessible through the function menu here autofocus assists I'm going to leave on and this is very useful because you're going to be able to use the focus ring on your lens to sort of control and do a more refined manual focused tweak while still utilizing autofocus with the lens once you have this enabled so sort of The Best of Both Worlds I think when it comes to sort of allowing for a bit more granularity with autofocus with some of the best attributes of manual focus alright stepping out of the afmf section when we go to the focus area again we're going to want to stick with wide as we noted previously Focus area limit we don't want to limit anything that the camera allows we're just going to have all the different autofocus area limit options available to us so we'll leave that as is focus area color again we will leave as white as we noted before and pretty much these remaining two things we're going to leave at their default values and not change anything there subject recognition again we're going to want to leave this on recognition Target again will leave as human but we have a bunch of different types of subject recognition options we can choose from if we so choose again most of these we talked about before so I'm not going to go over them again they're pretty much the same values that we had on the photo side that said when it comes to some that are unique to the video side we do have the focus map feature and this is going to allow for a more unique means of being able to identify what's in focus on screen versus what is not now just to demonstrate this as I turn the focus ring on my lens areas that are behind the plane of focus are in this sort of blue color as we get closer to what is in Focus you're going to see that blue sort of turn to a light blue and eventually say if we maybe get this cabinet in Focus that will not have essentially any color on it and then those areas that are sort of a orange or red or Amber that's going to be what is in front of the plane of focus I played around with this a bit in the a74 and while I find it is useful in some cases it tends to be a bit visually distracting on screen and I still find focus peaking to be a very useful tool so for the most part I don't use this too much but I will say it is a feature you have available to you focus magnifier I find to be a very useful feature especially on the video side in this case what I do for Focus magnification time is set this to No Limit so that if I'm going to magnify the image it is not set to any limit I can keep it magnified and sort of in that framed in option as long as I need to and then I will set the initial Focus magnification to the highest setting in this case which is four times but this will allow us to quickly magnify the image we're looking at say if we need to identify a subject that we're trying to focus on maybe in manual focus mode or we're trying to spot a very fine detail or something far away to see if and what is in Focus or not stepping out of this area as we just sort of noted we also then have the peaking display I find focus peaking to be very useful but a few settings here that you'll want to keep in mind that I've used in this case I keep focus peaking off by default because if and when it's on it can be a bit distracting say if you're not doing manual focus and autofocus is just taking the reins on how the camera focuses now in previous Sony models focus peaking only used to be on when your camera was in manual focus that is no longer the case pretty much when it's on is on all the time that includes an autofocus so that ultimately explains why I keep it off by default but it is something I toggle on from time to time and that's why we're going to make it a bit more easy to change on the fly as you'll see when we set up the function menu peaking level I do like at the high setting so basically showing the most amount of peaking on screen that you can rather than say low or mid which might show a bit less in that color so that you know what's in Focus or not and then in terms of color it's mostly about picking something in this case I think that stands out I find red stands out the best in most cases but yellow or blue might be good options I find white tends to blend in too much to the common scene or background in a lot of cases and of course again focus peaking is one of those things that does not carry over on this HDMI signal so I'll try to find a way of showing what that looks like here by getting some b-roll after the fact and once we've covered the peaking display I think we are done with the focus section now when it comes to the playback menu section of the camera I'm largely going to leave this as is and really not change anything from the defaults but worth noting you do have some options here to maybe choose if and how things get magnified when you're playing them back you have the option to maybe choose how you rate or kind of Select different pre-selected photos or video clips if you want to do that in camera you have the ability to determine different actions in terms of how you can delete and what different function buttons do when you want to get rid of Clips or maybe if you want to change different things that you've captured like most of this and other Sony cameras you have a lot of options here for controlling playback but I don't do too much of this really other than to quickly confirm I captured something so I'm not really trying to Mark Clips or do things I would typically do in post in camera so I find the default settings work fairly well for this now when it comes to the network settings options I do think there are a couple of things worth pointing out here so again largely I'm going to leave the defaults to be the defaults and keep things as is yes it's worth noting that compared to the a74 Sony has now relocated the USB streaming functionality to the network settings page for at least some reason so if you do go down to the streaming section you'll see the USB streaming option here this is where you would choose the different streaming settings for the camera I tend to leave this at 1080p 30 frames per second because that is sort of these standards still in terms of frame rate and resolution that most folks are streaming in but of course you can change to a few different options here and yes I do choose to ensure movie recording during streaming is enabled therefore if I want to record a clip internally say to an SD card and camera but also make sure that I am streaming the camera at the same time via USB I can do both things simultaneously apart from that yes this is also where in the network setting you would be able to enable or disable Wi-Fi and the different adapters there this is where you would enable and disable Bluetooth if you wanted to by default I will leave this typically as is though I will call out the ability to set what is known as airplane mode in the camera as this could be a good battery saving measure if you're looking to ensure your camera isn't constantly kind of hunting and searching for different Wi-Fi networks that are around or in range and if you're looking to learn a bit more about airplane mode and some other sort of battery saving tricks that you can utilize in your Sony Alpha camera I have a separate video on this channel that I will link to above and in the description below that covers these in more detail the only other thing may be worth calling out here is the reset network settings option which yes if you ever got in a bind and found different network adapters not working perhaps as you would expect this is where you could choose to do a network reset of the camera but beyond that I think we are largely done in terms of this section but once we move on to the main setup section of the camera this is where we're going to have a number of other things we can now talk about so the area date settings yes of course you'll want to set the language to whatever your native language is area date and time setting again you can customize this in many different ways I have some standard us-based settings here but you can choose a number of different formats and different date time and daylight savings options to pick from the ntsd and pal selector might be useful if you're looking to maybe change or travel to a different country say you're going from maybe the US to the UK and you want to ensure that your camera shoots in pal now so that you're not encountering too much flickering in terms of different lights and frequencies there and therefore you can shoot in 25 frames per second 50 frames per second instead of the more standard ntsc frame rates of 24 and 60 frames per second Etc probably not too useful unless you're doing a lot of back and forth international travel or you choose to do a frame rate that is not common to your native country but this is where you would set that and change it otherwise if we go to reset and save settings you will notice that this is where we can do a settings reset for the camera and this is also where you would go to save and load settings so yes if you're looking to load say my own custom settings file that I mentioned early in this video or you want to create your own this is where you can do that in the setup menu option now from here let's go on to operation customize and this is where we're going to talk about how we've customized the different buttons and function menus of the camera to bring up our most commonly used settings when we need them now as we move over to the operation customize settings you're going to see we have a custom key dial setting option for both photo and video now by default just to skip to the video option these are going to pretty much in most of all cases follow what we set on the photo side and this is largely okay because we're going to mainly use many of the things we said on the photo side also on the video end as well so in this case we want everything set on the photo side to carry over to the video side so we only need to set this once in the photo area so moving up to the photo custom key dial settings on the rear portion of the camera on what is known as the AEL button we have set this to be Focus mode so this gets going back to the main video screen if I hit the AEL button I'm able to quickly toggle between autofocus continuous and manual focus and of course if I were in photo mode I could toggle between autofocus continuous autofocus single shot autofocus automatic manual focus and so on now going back to the rear if we go on to button two which is typically the AF on button I had this set to the autofocus manual focus selector hold button and what this allows for a manual focus mode is being able to quickly lock onto a subject by holding the button and utilizing autofocus to do this and then being able to release that and have manual focus being locked onto the shot now just to demonstrate this quickly let's go into manual focus mode I'm going to zoom in to this camera here that is filming me and I'm going to throw the focus off considerably in this case I can hold the AF on button and you're going to see autofocus just basically acquire the camera as the subject and you can see even AFC in the top left corner there and then when I release the button I'm back in manual focus and I am completely locked on to this so no matter where I take my camera no matter what I aim it towards once I go back to that camera I am back and locked into it as we were before so definitely a useful feature when we want to utilize both autofocus and manual focus working together now again going back to the rear for the three button which is custom button one I had this set to be the focus area so again hitting the C1 button here what this will allow for is changing the focus area if and when I need to on quick glance so again I can have this set as y but if I need to ever quickly change this to zone or spot for some reason I can hit the C1 button and without diving into the menus too deeply change my focus area if and as I need to diving back onto 4 here which happens to be custom button number three this is where we have set the aps-c crop mode shooting that we talked about earlier in a couple cases so again to demonstrate this quickly we have our regular image here in full frame mode if and when I hit the C3 button what you're going to notice in the bottom right corner is that we are now in crop mode and of course you've noticed the image now crop in 1.5 times to an aps-c field of view once we want to toggle out of this can quickly again hit the C3 button and get us back into full frame mode so a very quick and convenient way to toggle between aps-c crop mode and again being able to utilize this as sort of our quick hack Zoom if and when we need to and going on to the last button of the rear we have the focus magnifier option which we're now programming as custom button for so in terms of the C4 or trash can button once I hit this Say in video mode what you're going to notice is by default I am now in Focus magnifier mode and I am zoomed in four times to this image and I'm able to see all the different things that they I am focused on or not focused on so again if I wanted to maybe utilize this to sort of get a more granular look at Focus this would enable me to do that say compared to if I were only trying to do this with the full frame field of view and once I want to toggle out of here I can just hit the shutter and quickly get me back into the regular image as it was so again a very quick way to magnify your image to see the details of something and what's in focus and not rather than having to dive into the menus to engage Focus magnifier so now that we've explored the rear of the camera let's now move on to the more granular portion of the rear most of these I'm not going to change the default on that includes the sort of d-pad here in Focus standard I'm not changing the center button on the main dial of the camera nor am I changing drive mode or the iso setting and I'm not actually going to change this to anything so really we're going to leave the defaults here as is of course the fourth option which is ISO I'm going to use regularly so really you do want the controls of iso aperture and shutter speed to be really easily known and found I've always been comfortable with the Sony defaults for this which just happens to be in this case for ISO so I think you're going to definitely want to make sure these are in a comfortable spot for you no matter what so again leaving the rear 2 controls as default let's now move over to the Top by default the record button is set here to this top one button and yes that is the record button we're going to leave it as is now in terms of this C2 Button as you'll see here I set this in particular to white balance so again if we're in the menus I hit C2 and I can quickly engage in white balance and whether that's me manually changing a color temperature as I need to or perhaps instead if I want to go back and go to auto white balance or try one of the other different white balance values I have that quickly available to me without diving too deeply into the menus and then a second we're going to talk about another way we can quick quickly get to white balance features using some of these dial and button customizations now going from here once we get to the lens settings by default most of Sony's lenses have a programmable button on the side and this is by default set to focus hold I tend to think this is fine as the default and don't change it but again you could choose a number of other different features that this button could control now from here if we move down to the dial and wheel settings Again by default the front dial is going to control aperture on these Sony cameras that back rear dial is going to control shutter speed these are again the Sony defaults and I'm comfortable with them and leaving them as is but one thing I am going to utilize is what was the former exposure compensation dial that you can now set to a number of different things in this case I have it set to white balance color temperature so in this case just to demonstrate if I were to unlock this button and just turn the knob you will see that I can quickly change the manual Kelvin degree of the color temperature without even needing to dive into the white balance menu without needing to engage a specific white balance function at all this will only work of course if I'm actually in the white balance color temperature mode and so therefore this wouldn't do anything if I were in Auto white balance or one of the default white balance Sony presets but again a very useful thing particularly on the video side if you work with manual white balance and different color temperatures a lot now again we talked about the custom key and dial settings for video and how we're going to let them carry over from the photo side so we've mostly covered that in terms of the custom key settings for playback I'm not going to really change this from any of the defaults and I think these are set fine as is so we will leave them as they are now when it comes to the function menu settings this is where we're also going to get a lot more granular and set up a lot more customizations here compared to what Sony would maybe provide here by default now again some of these settings that we set on the photo end of the function menu might carry over to the video side but some of these don't actually exist in one but might exist in another and some are a little bit different depending on whether they're in photo and video mode so we'll go over what I've set up here on the function menu to be able to access as quickly as I need to for a lot of the common things that I do when shooting photo or video so starting with the photo menu here on the topmost spot we have the drive mode and what this is going to allow us to do is quickly change between all the different drive mode options that we talked about such as again with single shot mode to be able to do continuous shooting at the high mode to be able to do some of the bracket settings we talked about and being able to access this quickly without again diving into the menus too deeply our next option here is going to be the image quality settings so again in this case rather than having to dive into the menus to choose between raw and jpeg rather than necessarily having to choose between the different jpeg quality options or the raw file type options we can quickly get to this here from the function menu as well and toggle Injustice as we need to next on the function menu side we have flash mode and again this is something that's going to be a bit more useful of course for folks that shoot with a flash or do any sort of flash photography gigs but this will allow us to choose between a rear sync a slow sync or fill flash option again depending on what type of flash photography preferences that we have as noted before let me know if you'd like to see something around flash photography and some of my setup options for this I could certainly talk about it in more detail next up here in the photo function menu is peaking display where we are able to turn on and engage Focus speaking based on the peaking level and peaking color settings that we set up earlier so again a quick way to easily engage this when we need to of course it's not going to show up in the HDMI display here but a quick means of being able to engage this if and when we're in manual focus which we already know we can turn on quickly if we need to by utilizing the AEL button that we programmed earlier next to peaking display we have the picture profile option and again whether we're talking about this on the photo or video side say on the photo side if we want to turn this off to do bracketed shooting or just in general or on the video side if we want to toggle between a cinetone or slog3 we have the ability to quickly call this up next to the picture profiles we have steady shot and again this will allow us to toggle this offer on if and when we need to now moving along to the bottom row of the photo function menu we have the live view display option and again we're probably going to leave this on most of the time but if we ever wanted to change this and adjust it for any specific shooting scenario we have the ability to turn this on or off next up on the function menu would be the recognition Target and again this is particularly useful if you're someone that's going to be toggling between different subjects that you want to track and use autofocus is for again without needing to dive too deeply into some of the other functionality to toggle this next up to the recognition Target in terms of autofocus is the autofocus tracking sensitivity and again this will allow us to adjust this if and when we need to depending on whatever specific situations we're in the utilize autofocus on the photo side next to autofocus tracking sensitivity on the function menu would be the self timer during bracket and as noted this is one of those settings that I'll typically leave at a default value but again there could certainly be those situations you encounter where you need to extend this value for a certain period of time to maybe get out of the shot quickly enough or you just find you don't need a timer during the bracketing and you want to turn it off so having this available along with drive mode along with a different file quality options make sure I can change pretty much all the main photo attributes if and as I need to very quickly and now we mentioned we would talk about zebras a bit before so in this case next to the self timer during bracket we have the main zebra display control which again is something that's not going to show up here on the HDMI feed but if and when we need to turn it on we can do that and it would show up here in camera and next to the zebra display option we have the actual zebra level so again in this case depending on what picture profile we're using or depending on what we want sort of our upper or lower limit to be for zebras in this case I have it set to a lower limit of 109 plus which is useful for Senator tone shooting we're also then able to adjust the zebra level very quickly on the Fly rather than just turn it on or off because again depending on how we're shooting or what picture profile we're in this might need to change at certain times so now that we've covered things on the photo function menu let's go over to the video function menu and see if and what has changed there that we want accessible to us so to start with the video function menu side of things the first item we have here is the recording frame rate or recording frames per second so what this will allow us to do is quickly change the frame rate without adjusting the resolution the Kodak the bitrate or chroma sub sampling that would typically be used with those given frame rates so in this case I will normally toggle back and forth say between 24 and 60 frames per second and this allows me to quickly do this using the function menu without needing to dive deep into other menus or even use a custom recall option to change frame rates say in this case is next up on the function menu here is the breathing compensation feature and again this is particularly useful depending on if you shoot with different Sony G and G Master lenses where you exhibit some form of focus breathing in this case if I were to turn it on since it's off currently you'll notice it will crop into the image slightly but in this case it's doing that crop to eliminate any Focus breathing that would occur between different Sony lenses as it might be trying to focus on different subjects and kind of move the frame in and out at its outer edges next up on the video function menu is going to be the variable shutter setting and again this is going to be particularly useful if you're encountering a situation where you have lights that are sort of exhibiting some form of flicker in this case you can quickly toggle this on and you will notice that the shutter speed at the bottom left corner is going to change to sort of a decimal value that will allow you to increment or decrement shutter speed and a lot more granular levels than you would typically be able to now the next item on the video function menu is the focus peaking setting which as you can see using that little photo icon tells us that we've carried over from the photo function menu settings very much the same case as you can see here with the picture profile option we've also carried this forward from the photo settings the one item that's in the same position but is actually going to be a different settings item in this case is the steady shot setting for video and this is because as you can see there's a video camera next to it particularly because in this case with the video side you're going to get the added option of not just standard and off but also active stabilization which is noted before adds a crop to do a more enhanced form of stabilization if you're doing something like say handheld shooting I want to smooth that out a bit more than you would need to say in photo mode moving on from there to the next row of video function menu settings is the audio recording level and again this allows us to quickly adjust our audio recording levels on the Fly say if we instead are not going to be using a shotgun mic I need to raise the preamp level to something a bit more usable to be able to capture audio and camera or again if we need to lower it because we have something like a good shotgun mic that has a gain control on it and allows us to carry more audio from the device itself and have those levels set up higher than say having to utilize the camera's mic preamps next up beyond the audio recording level and going to be yet another function that follows the photo menu which is the recognition Target setting and again this allows us to choose our subject whether that's humans animals birds and sex so on and so forth now in this case next to recognition Target we have more autofocus settings but these are going to be specific for the video side first we have auto focus transition speed again I'm going to keep this more at the middle of the road setting at least as a default and then following the autofocus transition speed we have the autofocus subject shift sensitivity and again this is a more video specific version of that feature and something that we're going to set to be whatever it needs to be at a given moment whether very locked on very responsive and able to shift to different things or as we've mentioned beforehand set to sort of a middle of the road value of three in this case and for our last two items of the video function menu we have zebra display and we have the zebra level both of which are carried over again from the photo side now moving beyond the function menu settings you do have the ability to disassociate the different settings between the still and movie modes if you want to so by default all of these different setting values as you see the aperture shutter speed ISO these are all links so that if you set something in the video mode and you switch over to the photo mode that setting carries over if we were to instead start checking these off all of those items that we selected would basically start to independently operate from one another depending on whether we were in photo mode or in video mode so safely checked off ISO here and we set an ISO on the video side of 1000 we would then be able to go over to the photo mode and that photo mode ISO might not necessarily be that same value in fact it might be whatever we set it to previously or we could still operate it and control it independently so that once we go back into video mode it would still keep its value as set before of 1000. by default I'm comfortable with leaving these things length because typically if I'm toggling that frequently between values anyway I'm already on a hybrid gig and I want exposure in these settings to be pretty much the same so we'll leave this as is Now display screen display set in this case is going to let you turn on or off different things that you can see on the monitor or on the viewfinder in this case I'm comfortable with the default values here so I have no need to change that but if you want to choose to remove or add different things things this is where you would do that record with shutter is an option I don't use but some people like to use if they want to set the shutter button to be able to toggle on the record functionality when they're shooting in video mode I'll leave this as off but you can choose to set this if you want now if we move on to dial customize this is basically going to show us some of the same things we set up already in the custom key dial customize options beforehand so for the most part we'll just keep this as is and move on to the next section now once we go to touch operation largely the defaults will be okay here though you might want to check on a couple things yes we want the touch operation to be on in this case so we can utilize whatever touch functionality is available in the main LCD screen touch sensitivity is fine to leave as standard the touch panel pad option I tend to leave as touch panel only so basically the touchpad doesn't control what's on the screen but the actual LCD display again the touch panel is what's going to basically accept input from my hands and different things one thing I do think is helpful to set is in the touch panel settings item below you'll notice you'll now have the ability to swipe up to engage the function menu which I will try to show on screen since again I can't quite capture this with the HDMI and input of course touch panel settings beyond that I choose to mostly leave vertical orientation off but again if you want to make it operate in that fashion you can do that here and then otherwise I'm going to leave these defaults as is moving on to accessibility yes you do have a screen reader function which could be particularly useful if you're someone that needs to utilize these features by and large I think the defaults here are okay but you do have the ability to choose the speed of the screen reading ability you do have the ability to choose the volume level of this and of course the toggle it on or off as needed now for the finder monitor settings most of these I'm going to leave pretty much as is in terms of their defaults again I would highly encourage you to check out the Sony battery life tips and tricks video I mentioned before it's above and in the description below in terms of if you want to learn a bit more about some of these features and which might have an impact on battery life versus not or just might be conveniences and quality of life improvements that you may want to configure and start using a few big ones I will call out here is Select finder monitor which typically I will leave as Auto meaning that if you put your eye up to the eyepiece of the viewfinder it will start using the viewfinder and show that only and then of course if you remove of your eye from the viewfinder it only shows the monitor if you're finding your cameras maybe on a Gimbal and something is passing over the viewfinder in the back and constantly triggering turning off the monitor you might want to set this to one of these specific manual values but by and large I find auto works fine beyond that monitor brightness is also very useful here you not only have a manual option that lets you toggle the brightness to different levels manually but sunny weather is going to be very useful if you're in any sort of bright sunlit environment where you need to increase the brightness of the display in order to see it and one more thing potentially worth calling out might be the monitor flip Direction here which yes if you want to specifically ensure it orients or displays content in a certain way depending on how you're using the screen this would be the place to set that again though I think Auto is fine in most cases here moving on to the display quality option in this case I'm going to leave some of these defaults as is one thing I do like to set though is gamma display assist on this is going to ensure that say if you're shooting an s-log 3 you're still going to have a very Rec 709 looking image on screen that you can use to judge engage exposure and make adjustments as needed rather than having to do so off of a purely flat log image on the camera screen having gamma display assist on and tandem with gamma display assist type being set to Auto ensures that no matter which picture profile you're using whether Slot 2 slot 3 hlg it's going to effectively pick the appropriate Lut to sort of apply on the screen to bring that up to rec 709 or BT 2020 standard so that you can see it rather than having to manually toggle which one you're using depending on the picture profile you chose the rest of these I will leave as is as they're set by default auto review I do want to especially keep as off because while it might be helpful in some cases if you're someone that's shooting a lot of different photos you probably don't want the photo constantly appearing on screen that you just took you want to be able to move on to the next one and get your live view of the display back so this is definitely something a lot of Run and Gun photographers explicitly want to ensure is set to off in a lot of cases going on from here to the power setting option in this case I do want to ensure that the power save start time is set to some value one minute is a good option here so basically the battery just doesn't continuously drain but rather if we're not using the cat camera it automatically saves itself and kind of goes to sleep after a minute another critically important setting here is going to be the auto power off temp and making sure that this is set to high rather than standard which is the default in fact this is so important now as you might have noticed in the a7r5 setup process if you own this you're going to get prompted during the initial setup to actually turn this on by Sony whereas they never even used to do this before basically to ensure you can utilize the actual desired record times that this camera can produce otherwise you certainly could encounter overheating errors in what I would consider to be unreasonably short time frames so this is a very common thing all Sony shooter set make sure this is set to high and you will be good to go in terms of your record times moving on from here we have the sound option settings again for most of these we're going to leave on as the default audio signals are going to be what are the general beeps and sort of signals in the cameras so if you don't like the record sound or other beeps that the camera makes during different operations you might want to change this to off but I'm comfortable with leaving this on a lot of cases as I don't mind the audible indicator of what I'm doing now moving on from here we have the USB section which for the most part I'm going to to just leave as the default USB connection mode will leave as select when connect so depending on what we're doing and trying to use the camera for it'll prompt us to pick one of these in this case I do want to ensure USB power supply is set to on which will enable us to provide power to the camera through USB which again could be critical in certain situations of using an external battery say the Titan base battery and the rig build setup that I utilized in my previous Sony a7r5 rig build video which yes you can check out above and in the description below moving on from here we have the external output settings there's a few things that could certainly be relevant to check here HDMI resolution I have set to 1080p right now but depending on what you're trying to capture an output from this say if you're doing a higher quality external recording you might want to set this to 4K which is 2160p or even 8K 4320p if you have a recorder or some device that actually accommodates this I'll skip over output settings and come back to that in a second HDMI info display is what is allowing you to see the actual setup menus right now being able to capture this output separately from the camera if you only want to project the image that the camera is captured capturing out of it and not any of the menus and sort of different setup options this is when you would turn this off and control for HDMI can be useful depending on if and how you want to trigger recording from other external devices like an atomos ninja 5 recorder so I tend to leave this all by default and I think that's fine but again you can change this if you find that getting in your way or if you need to now in terms of HDMI output settings this is where you have a bit more granularity you can choose from yes we want to have record media during HDMI output set to on much like the USB streaming option noted earlier we want to be able to record in camera while we're also outputting an HDMI signal so this allows us to do that output resolution again will align with what we were talking about before here it's set to 4K but of course you can change that if and as you need to some of these settings below you'll notice are grayed out currently but this is where you would actually be able to utilize some of the raw options of the camera because yes much like the a7s3 the A1 the fx3 or fx30 the a7r5 can also do a 16-bit prores raw output to a device like an atomos ninja recorder beyond that are some further raw settings which I'm not going to get into and I'm pretty much going to leave most of the set to their defaults as they are currently moving on from external output to the setup option here we have a few things may be worth noting specifically if we move down to the anti-dust function this is where if we needed to give the sensor a full cleaning we could engage this with the camera they're typically this shouldn't be needed unless you're in a more extreme case of the sensor being dirty and needing to go through a cleaning beyond that though the shutter when power off feature is something you might want to think about this is what enables the shutter to close when you power the camera off and automatically open back up when you power it on so that you can eliminate more chances of dust getting in there or other debris I find to keep the caps on my bodies pretty religiously and try to avoid those sort of Nefarious situations where dust can get in there so I'm generally okay with not having to constantly have this on but something to think about engaging depending on what your needs are Auto pixel mapping leaving it to on is good this would ensure that basically in any case if you have a dead pixel or two once you power off and power cycle the camera at a certain point Sony will be able to Auto detect this and fix that for you without you doing anything below that pixel mapping in this case is just sort of a manual way to engage this which we don't need to but of course if you ever needed to that's how you do it I really the last thing we're going to cover since the Privacy notice isn't of too much interest here is the version of course this is where you're going to see the actual version of the firmware that you're running in the camera which can be very helpful to note but related to that this is also where you would go to actually engage a software update after placing the update on a memory card and this is a newer sort of pattern of being able to do updates and cameras if Sony introduced with the a74 since previous versions used to require you to connect to your computer and download a range of different things and it was not the most intuitive process so needless to say if you want to check what version of software your a7r5 is on and or update it to the latest version this is where you would go in the menus to do that and at this point we have now reached the end of the menus and you've pretty much seen every single setting that I have set up here in my a7r5 hopefully this video has been of some help to you feel free to leave a like And subscribe if it has of course there's a lot more content that I'm going to be digging into on the a7r5 in the coming weeks so definitely subscribe if you want to see more of that and definitely leave a like and let me know of any comments below if you have any other settings recommendations you might choose user utilize or anything you think you have questions on that I might have missed for now that is all I have to say so thanks for watching [Music] foreign

Channel: Andrew Saraceni

Views: 47,969

Keywords: sony, a7r v, a7rv, sony a7r v, sony a7rv, sony a7r v settings, sony a7rv settings, sony a7r v photo settings, sony a7rv video settings, sony a7r v photo and video settings, settings for photographers, settings for videographers, settings for filmmakers, ilce-7rm5, sony a7r v movie settings, menu setup, sony a7r v menu setup, sony a7 iv, sony a7s iii, sony fx3, sony fx30, custom buttons, custom dials, function menu, fn menu, photo settings, video settings, movie settings

Id: I2Nlp2J2Whc

Length: 70min 49sec (4249 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 17 2023