Monarch Lathe Headstock Oil Change

[Music] hey guys so today we're gonna be working on the monarch lay and we're gonna be doing an oil change in the headstock so let's go down here and discuss what we're going to be doing and by the way I am currently in the middle of a clutch repair on the monarch lathe but what I'm doing is I'm making two separate videos so we'll have one subject on fixing the clutch and we're going to have this video on how to drain oil clean the headstock and refill it all right and purpose of that is just to kind of make it a more searchable subject matter for the guys that are working on monarch machines that want to learn a little bit more about how you know to fix or repair something or do maintenance on it alright so let's discuss the headstock now I've been keeping the headstock covered up you see we got the lid right down there and I'm gonna clean that as well so I covered the headstock up with this tarp just to keep any kind of dust and sediment that's floating around in the air for the last two days out of the headstock so this oil has been in there for quite some time and I'll show you in the manual what it's what it recommends for the the oil to go in here and it also says that they recommend monarch does that you drain and flush this system once a year now I think most of us are guilty that we don't do that kind of preventative maintenance and it's good that we should but this is not used every single day all day heart you know like in production work but we're going to go ahead and now give it a nice drain and flush anyway so what I have picked up is I've got a five gallon pail some kerosene we're going to be using that to flush the gearbox and to kind of clean it out and then the oil that we're going in there is more opal 100 by Chevron so Moroka 100 is an ISO 100 great industrial oil which is equivalent to the SAE 30 weight oil that of that monarch recommends in their book to put in here okay so the ISO 100 let's come down here and look at my manual I'll show you what we got here this is a just a printout copy of another manual and it gives the instructions here on the lubrication system so right here it says we recommend the use of a high-grade oil the equivalent of SAE 30 ok right here and then also down here we recommend that once yearly all oils should be drained of the head stock and the head stock flushed out with kerosene and clean preferably filtered oil used to refill it I don't have a filter cart to be able to filter this oil so unfortunately I'm going to be doing like most people and just dumping the oil in there but it is a good thing if you actually can't filter the oil this is the viscosity chart that I printed out a while back whenever we were working on the G&E shaper there I've got a whole video series on that going into that cleaning that gearbox out and filling it with oil so this is the chart that I had printed out of a book and it shows the SU s viscosity rating right here okay and if you go across here you can see you got ISO AGM a sae crankcase sae gear so depending on what your machine recommended recommendation is for the SU s rating this is this was for the shaper and it recommended I think it was 500 or 550 su s so you come across and you can use these oils right here so I ended up using the the ISO 100 for the shaper and it also happens to be the same oil that we can use for the monarch because it's recommended an SAE 30 right there SAE 30 so you can see it's right here in line with the ISO it's just that's industries the industrial rating for that viscosity of oil so we're going to use iso 100 but you can go certainly go in there with the sae 30 if you would like just like the book says so now that we've got that covered we're gonna come around here to the back of the lathe I've got my system ready to go so the oil drain plug is right up underneath here it is right there run point now so I've got a funnel and a hose held in with my Nova clamp right here I'm hoping that's going to be enough to not overflow and we're going to drain it right down under that tub I've got another bucket here that I can put right here if I'm getting a bunch of oil overflow and we will be using a 3/8 drive ratchet to stick in this drain plug right here it'll go in right there and be able to loose it up that way all right so that's what we're gonna work on we'll go ahead and start getting it drain now all right we're going to get the oil drain plug taken out I've got an extra bucket here I got some rags nearby let's see how this goes try not to drop it yep yep it's gonna overflow it I'm gonna have to try to meter this maybe you leave the plug there no that's not gonna be fast enough I need a much bigger funnel and a much bigger hose I can tell it's gonna overflow that in no time I've got a much bigger funnel it's just getting it from here over to a bucket it's just extremely tight quarters here and I got these that bracket kind of riding away holding the electrical box and panel on so the change of plan is I've got my little small bucket right here that just fits under that bracket so I'm just gonna going to drain it out like you know one gallon at a time or you know three-quarters of this bucket put the plug back in like I did and then dump it into the pail over here with a large funnel all right so let's just go ahead and do that and it's filling up fast so that is a fast drain right there go ahead and start getting the plug back in it just like that don't want to overflow I think you can see my pathway right here I'm going to slide the bucket out this way and then this is my big pale and phone over phone use right there to dump this oil in right here I don't know how much oil is actually in this headstock it doesn't say it doesn't give how much oil actually goes in there you know you've got an oil site over there that you know that you monitor to make sure that you have enough oil in the headstock second bucket I'm thinking about possibly rigging up some kind of chick valve system or like a ball valve that I can rig up here to be able to quickly drain it maybe you hook a hose to it with a ball valve that way it goes straight into the bucket and it looks like we're starting to get down to our down to the end really slowing way down now it's a good thing I'm just gonna go ahead and let that drain like it's doing try to get as much out as I can all right we've got most of the oil drained out of there that's the you know the same second bucket from the last clip you seen just been trying to let it slowly drain and you can actually see right underneath there where the drain plug is I like you see my hand under there moving under the drain plug so we still got some oil sitting in that area there I'm gonna see if I can it seems like they're just sitting down in those those cavities you know the casting I don't know maybe I can maybe pick a stick a little pig Matt in there to try to help soak some of that oil up but the next phase of what we're going to do here by the way I only have this off right here this is your quadrant years is because I was inspecting it and I want to clean all this out right there so this is just something else that we're going to do is get those gears cleaned up I'll put some of my kerosene and a jug here it's just easier to handle in a small container like that and I've also got my sure-shot sprayer here filled up with kerosene pressurized and this is what I'm gonna use to help wash and spray the inside out if you look right here we're gonna see just kind of use the kerosene to wash everything down and I'm gonna get in there with a rag and try to wipe some of the sediment off to the sides there but this is what we're gonna use is this right here to help kind of wash it out I'm gonna go ahead and pour some of this in there and as I pour I'll pour it over the gears here but I want I want to kind of put some of this in the bottom to help kind of break up some of that old oil I think my plan is to go ahead and try to wash it down as it sits right here I'm going to get in here manually with my hand and kind of wipe the insides of the gearbox case out and try to move some of this down in the bottom of those cavities where all that oil was and then drain that much out and then we're gonna go ahead and put enough in there that I can actually run the machine and that won't be until we we get the clutch back together which is going to be hopefully in a few hours have the clutch back together and then we'll be able to run it and cycle it with the kerosene to kind of help flush all the old oil out and then drain it one last time you see a lot of sediment built up on the casing this stuff actually does a really good job cleaning the machines and again it's what the it's what monarch men manufacturing recommends to clean their machine and I'm sure many other companies recommend the same to as it breaks down you know grease and oils and it's a petroleum-based instead of the you know water-based cleaner least one of these brass fittings actually have has a letter and number on there's RJ b5 while we're in here I wanted to point out the oiling system you've seen the the copper lines here that forces oil up to the Timken bearings and then the gears are mainly all just oiled by a oil bath you know running into oil underneath but the oil pump is actually right here I'm pointing to it there that's one of those bigger piston tight oil pumps okay at the bottom of it sits down in the oil and if you look across here this shaft goes across and there's a cam right here our camp all maybe I should say and I haven't noticed it until now and I won't notice it till later when we run it but I believe this plate here is a cam and if you if I spin it by hand here you can see the pump going down which is being moved by this arm right here now it's coming back up so I believe when the spindle is turning this I believe this is a cam on the outside of this play here that's running this oil pump and it's pressurizing oil to all of your Timken bearings and in this line right here actually goes over there's a sight glass right there and that's what you you just visually look at that whenever you're operating the lathe to make sure that it's actually pumping oil there is another sight glass down below that gives you your oil feel make sure that you've got enough oil in it I'm going to remove this plate right here this is behind the input shaft so the shaft that operates the clutch and the input is all right here and I'm only taking it off because it's just a cover plate and it's going to allow me to kind of reach in here and help clean out and wipe some of the backside of the case off here a gasket on there I'm gonna try not to disturb that but just kind of wipe it off and then you can see some of the sediment it's built up on the bottom of it right there so I'll be able to reach right in here and just kind of help wash the rest of this out we've got most of the cleaning that I can do by hand finished up so I've got the inspection cover washed off and I'm going to go ahead and put it back on because when we go to run it I'm afraid we're gonna have all coming out of this so we'll go ahead and put it back in place I'm just reusing the you know the same gasket that was on it there I don't know if there's any video that exists in the world maybe monarch casts um but I think it would be really cool if we was able to watch some video from back in say the 40s 40s fifties or sixties whenever they actually built these machines you know cast them machine them and put them together it'd be really cool I'm going to go ahead and drain the the fluid that's in there now the kerosene that we use to wash the inside the gearbox out and my theory is you know all the sediment that we washed and white is hopefully washed down to the bottom so we're going to try to drain some of this out and then the the cavity down in here and then there's another one over here I'm going to try to stick some Pig mat down in there on end to try to help soak up whatever's left down in there and then we will refill it with some fresh kerosene for our flush for our complete run in and flush [Music] alright I'm just gonna let that do its thing and finish draining out of there this is my Pig Matt or you know also known as oil absorbent Matt right there so I'm gonna take a couple pieces of this this stuff works really good I'm gonna probably just see if out rolling it up all right there's a couple cavities in the bottom that some of the fluid is still sitting in and my attempt is to like stick it down in here like this on the end and it'll start absorbing that fluid up in there a little bit tighter shot of what I'm talking about there you see the cavity down down there maybe and you know this will take a little time I'm just gonna set it in there like that just push it in there and that fluid will continue to absorb up into that Pig Matt there all right I'm also gonna go grab and grab another one and do the one behind you there alright the end of it stuck down in that cavity so we'll let it do some absorbing now you can see there we're talking about sucking it right on up alright we just finished buttoning up the clutch so we got that done and I have been soaking all the little bit of fluid left in the bottom down there so let's go ahead and pull these guys out you can see there they're saturated there I think that was in a built-in check there's still a couple little spots down in there I need a little a little pump to get in there and get that out and I don't have one I've got this I got this old turkey baster it looks like that's working to get that out of it I don't know what you need until you need it and I know I know a guy showed that hard before 8:00 they've got these little small manual pumps and you can put a little hose on it stick it down in there but I really don't feel like getting out and running all the way over to Hart but Freight so we're so far this is working pretty good right here all right well I have sucked down it's about as much as I can get it's just that one little caveat in there this side is dry and I've wiped in there as far as my hands can reach to wipe as much as I can spot right there that I missed all right but so I'm ready to go ahead and we're gonna go ahead and put some kerosene in that so I'm gonna put just enough in there that I know the pump over here is going to be pumping and pumping it and we're gonna run it in low gear and let this thing run for a little bit and try to wash all the old oil out of the bearings and off the gears and let it settle back into the bottom and I'll do the drain once more quite there yet and anybody concerned about me wasting this stuff I bought this bucket just to do this right here it cost me it was $20 all over $20 for $4 a gallon from the oil company minor expense to do some nice preventative maintenance on this machine here okay yeah we're there now we are good to go I'm up on the site glass so I'm probably gonna have to put the cover on this we'll go ahead and see what it looks like when it running we're gonna be swinging some at least it's running it may also we know we're gonna get some good pumping action there so let's cover this back up alright I just finished cleaning the lid here wiping the whole bottom of it off the underside of me slide it back on that should keep it from splashing out anyway so go ahead I'll let it run for a few minutes to flush it it shouldn't take very long all right we've been running the headstock for approximately 15 to 20 minutes now I feel like that's plenty of time that's been circulating the whole time and should have watched all that oil out of the bearings and off the gears and we're gonna go down to the bottom go ahead stop it by the way I know that my clutch is working really good stopping just like it should so I'm looking forward to getting the oil in there so the other thing I was going to mention I've got a few of these jugs from the parts washer I went ahead and marked one has used kerosene and I'm gonna clean my bucket and my funnel and we're gonna dump this kerosene out into this container and I'll reuse this whenever I go to clean a machine if I want to you know clean the outside of the machine this would be great for that kind of stuff all right we got the power kill to the machine and take our lid back off Sammy I can see that it's mixed in a little bit so we'll go ahead and drain it again all right guys just to repeat of earlier we're gonna go ahead and remove our plug get the cap on before I overflow the bucket there yeah we still got pointing a good clean kerosene right there so make great machinery clean and fluid right there there we go to clean the monarch off and clean the Smith & Mill Schaefer they more than that so plug it up least we're gonna get the machine cleaned off back here we've got it all drained we just let it just letting it drip now and I think our capacity for oil and the head stock is gonna be approximately two gallons these buckets that I use or one gallon buckets you know and we dumped it twice when we did the oil you know we had almost two of those buckets and when I put the kerosene in there actually overfilled it just a little bit so just take an observation all right so got to get in here now see the cavities down there that still got the kerosene in it there's one over there too so I got to do my do my cleaning out with the big mat and I'll use my little baster and get in there and finish sucking the rest of that kerosene out and then while I'm doing that the rest of this should kind of drip on down but my turkey baster has been working really good to get this kerosene sucked out of here if I get to get the pump just right I get a full vial there fluid so I've been working on this side of here and I got just about every bit of it out so I was gonna show you I took one piece of my Pig Matt and I just cut it into little pieces here something easy and manageable then I can get down in here like this and I'm just gonna slide it underneath that shaft there cameras right where I need to get so I'm a little awkward here but just like that just slide it up underneath there so that'll sit there and start soaking up that little bit of kerosene and oil that's still left in the bottom I'll monitor that and I'm going to continue to work on this valley over here on this side all right we don't want to forget to put the drain plug back back in and tighten it up so I'm just showing you that make sure that we get it done I'm just about through with getting the inside cleaned and dry so I wanted to go ahead and get this back on before I forget about it I feel like I've got it as bad as dry as I can really get it I've sucked it all out at the bottom on both of these sides here it's all out everywhere so we're ready to go I did spray off some of the tops of the gears here with my solvent degreaser it's fast evaporating just so it would kind of flow down at the bottom and I've kind of mop that up so I think we're ready to go I'm gonna go ahead and get this oil ready to pour in there make sure the buckets clean before you go to dump it so here we go the moment we've been waiting on all day get a little bit on these gears that's looking good man I can still see a little bit over here the kerosene that I wasn't able to get out but that would be all right almost there just about come into my oil level lying down here on the site glass this is the oil level that I'm talking about right there no I'm almost I'm basically at there at it we got him I'm gonna maybe a sixteenth of an inch to come up so we'll go ahead and top it off with just a little bit more oil then go ahead and kick the lathe on and go ahead and start spinning it over a little bit of time yep getting good oil now see that sucker really splashes and distributes it well whenever you get going I'm just barely engaged in that clutch alright I think everything's looking good double-check the sight glass here looks like we're at our we're just a little bit over our level line so we've got adequate oil in there so we are ready to button this thing up and close the top off and let it run and check our clutch also I think our clutch is good I wanted to point out this right here okay this is the brake for the lay this is called a cone brake so when I activate the clutch you can see that this chap is pivoting and it's pulling that cone out of the cup you see it spinning with the input shaft and then so whenever you let off the clutch right you pull the clutch lever up it goes into that cup that cup there and as you pull up on the handle I'm pulling up on it it's pushing that cone up inside this housing tight and that's what the brake is so that's how you actually great just pull up on it just like that so I wanted everybody to be aware that that's the actual break right there for the lathe all right going back on with the lid we're gonna button her up I've got it all cleaned off the underside of it is completely clean white free of trash the only thing I haven't done yet is I want to watch the bolts off they go in here so I'm gonna go do that real quick and then we'll get it bolted down you've also got a fill cap right here this is where if you need to add some oil this is where you put it in right there actually I need to go wash that get that overall off there's a filter screen in there that lifts out I'll pull it out of there I'll go ahead and go wash that out but if you need to top it off with some oil this is where it goes right here all right we got our little filter screen or just a screen clean protective just protects the opening here whenever you open this thing up trash getting down in there chips or anything like that and there's our fill cap there all right all right well our oil change is finished up let's go ahead and fire it up and we're gonna go ahead and run it now clutch is working good too so [Music] everything sounds normal it's actually the tone of the machine is is changed just slightly that whine that most people have have noticed coming from the clutch area back here is it's got a different sound it might be because I because of the bearing that agrees there I'm not really sure anyway this job is done [Music] all right I'm happy with that guys that's gonna be the end for this video on the oil change for the headstock draining the oil out getting it clean and then the refill in it so I hope that this might help some of you guys out there that's running some monarch machines even if it's not a monarch you can still apply the same kind of principles to you know any machine any lathe as far as draining it and getting the inside of the headstock or the gear box cleaned out so anyway it's time to get back to work and hopefully you enjoyed and we'll see you next time [Music] [Music]

Channel: Abom79

Views: 175,296

Rating: 4.9566984 out of 5

Keywords: abom79, lathe, engine lathe, lathe maintenance, lathe headstock, headstock, monarch, monarch lathe, monarch lathe repair, oil change, lathe oil change, iso 100, gear oil, sae 30, gearbox, gearbox oil, gearbox cleanout, lathe repair, kerosene, flush and fill, lathe cleaning, lathe clutch, machine shop, machinery, manual lathe, vintage machines

Id: kDTdPdv9wfI

Length: 38min 18sec (2298 seconds)

Published: Tue Jun 02 2020