MODELING: the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

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- This video is brought to you by Squarespace, an all in one platform for building your brand and growing your business online. Hello, my beautiful doves. Today's video is gonna be on all things fashion modeling. So the history of modeling, the concept of the supermodel, et cetera. I actually got this idea because there was this video going around on TikTok about how we have no more it girls in the 2020s, which I don't necessarily agree with, but I'll just play the video for you so you know what I'm talking about. - The era of the it girl is dying and we are killing it because everybody wants to be or is trying to be an it girl right now. And that's where the problem introduces itself because if everybody is doing and following the same guidelines, playing by the same rules, who is doing it? So to say. There are no trademarks and no signatures because everybody's playing by the same matcha, Pilates, neutrals, tape-ins, playbook. - So I don't agree with this take because I think that there are lots of women who have the ick... Not the ick factor, the it factor maybe because we're living in a time where there's like an oversaturation of celebrities and influencers so it's harder to say now who exactly is shifting the culture. Okay, I realize that for this section, this intro, it doesn't really make that much sense. Like it's giving unscripted, so I just wanna clarify. What I mean is that, yes, what this person is saying in the video is correct. There are lots of people who are just doing the same things online. The Pilates, the green smoothies, et cetera. But there are also a good number of people who are doing things that are very different. The problem is that there are just so many celebrities and so many influencers these days that someone who's making an impact in my circle is not necessarily someone that you would know, and vice versa. Like, I do not know every influencer, every celebrity, that is currently making waves, but that doesn't mean that they don't exist. The reason I wanted to talk about supermodels is because it got me to thinking about how a lot of the it girls of the '80s and '90s were supermodels. Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Kate Moss, et cetera. I definitely think there are a lot of models that are very popular today, like the Hadid sisters, but there are way fewer models that are making the same kind of impact as the '90s girls. So I definitely wanna delve into that, but first we gotta get started with the history 'cause you know I love history on this channel. But first a word from our sponsor. Thank you Squarespace for once again sponsoring this video. If you've been looking for a way to build your website, Squarespace is a fantastic platform that offers tons of customization options and pre-made templates. You're bound to find something that works for you. Because Squarespace is about growing your business or brand, not just the aesthetic stuff, you can access analytics pretty easily. So see who's checking you out and for how long they're spending on your page, where they're from, and tons more statistics. You can also send newsletters, which I know is the really trendy thing to do these days. And, oh look, more templates to choose from, so you can send something that people will not ignore in their inbox. Check out squarespace.com for a free trial. And when you're ready to launch, go to squarespace.com/minale to get 10% off your first purchase of a website or a domain. (static buzzing) Content warning, in this video will be discussing dieting, body weight, body image, et cetera, so please tread lightly. (gentle upbeat music) So back in the late 19th and early 20th century, the term for model was, most often than not, living mannequins. Like, you wouldn't call someone a model, you would call them a mannequin. Which sounds kind of dehumanizing, but at the time, I mean, I can't really say whether I would've liked to be called a mannequin if I was a working mannequin at the time. But the modeling job was a lot simpler. Like, you were really just a vehicle to display clothes. It was not considered a lucrative career choice by any means. Mannequins were also usually working class girls, and they were often characterized as morally corrupt because their job entailed showing their bodies. In Paris salons, mannequins were not even allowed to make eye contact or talk to the clients. What's interesting about the whole moral corruption complaint though is that like, in the Victorian era and all the way up to 1907, whenever models were in parades, which is like the term for an early fashion show, whenever they were modeling clothes out of parade, they had to wear these long undergarments over their corsets called maillots. And the maillots covered like all exposed flesh for decency's sake. I wish I could have found a photo of a maillots to show you, but I couldn't find one anywhere, and I don't know if it's just because photographs weren't as common and no one thought to take a photo of this garment. Who knows? If any historians are watching this and know what I'm talking about and have a pictorial reference, I would love to see it. Please, DM me on Instagram just for my own curiosity, and then I'll like repost it on my story or something. But fashion historian, Caroline Evans, did describe them in her article "The Enchanted Spectacle" for The Journal of Dress Body & Culture culture as, "V-necked, tight fitting, and worn over the corset and under the dress." They were also usually made of black satin or a crepe de Chine. Couturier,Charles Friedrick Worth, is often considered the first designer to utilize living mannequins back in the 1850s. His first mannequin was actually his wife, Marie Vernet Worth. Charles would dress her and his creations and have parading down the horse races at Longchamps to basically like market his designs. The success of the collaboration ended up inspiring him to look for other models or living mannequins to model his other designs in his showrooms. A lot of designers who recruited mannequins had a cabine, which was an established team of models that worked specifically for them. French designer, Jean Patou, was another designer who used mannequins. In 1924, he organized a highly publicized casting call in New York to recruit American mannequins so that his North American clients could feel seen. Because, you know, French and American women look very different. At this time, there were no strict standards of what a mannequin had to look like. They just normally had to be on the tall side and slender. And they had to be white. (tense music) But other than that, there were no like measurements they had to fall into. French couturier, Paul Poiret, even fondly described his favorite model. "Paulette was for a long time the one I preferred. With round arms and rounded shoulders, she was plump and elegantly rolled as a cigarette. How comely, how French." As a mannequin, you weren't supposed to be unique or individual. Most mannequins would wear the same uniform when out and about with the designer. Part of the standardization was influenced by US President Henry Ford. Yes, stay with me. This seems random, but it's all kind of connected. So in 1914, Henry Ford introduced the eight hour workday, and basically he organized industries to work in assembly lines to create a standardized product. Some scholars have linked the standardization in the industry plant to entertainment, specifically with chorus lines. German film writer, Siegfried Kracauer, argued that the chorus lines symbolized the capitalist system. Each girl was zapped of her individuality to assume the identity of a mass ornament. Media studies researchers, Stuart and Elizabeth Ewen, add, "By the 1920s, fashion had begun to emulate the logic of industrialism. The fashion ideal for women increasingly became that of the young, agile, long limbed girl whose naturally shaped body is well-suited to the working requirements and mobility of the modern world. Her well proportion figure is easily clothed by a standardized manufactured garment." Also, with the boom of consumerism, department stores started competing with each other by hosting more and more elaborate fashion spectacles. And by 1915, fashion shows could be found virtually in every major city in the United States. Journalist, Michael Gross, observed, "Mannequins became an important factor in the American fashion scene." So needless to say, in the 1920s, modeling became an important work option for young women. Don't get me wrong, the occupation was still like pretty poorly paid and informal labor, but it was the fact that you could surround yourself with these like aristocratic ladies who could potentially offer you like a better job. Or if you're really lucky, take you under their wing and support your lifestyle. In 1923, John Robert Powers opened up the first modeling agency in New York. And with agency representation, models fees increased. By the 1930s, American models earned on average $65 a week for photographic work and $40 a week for wholesale modeling and fittings and showrooms on Seventh Avenue. Just for perspective, $65 in 1930 was about $1,155, which is especially not bad considering The Great Depression. Powers was also one of the first people to have his models adhere to a strict height and weight requirement, and, of course, these measurements only slim down over time. For instance, in 1930, at least 10 of Powers's models had 39-inch hips, several of them were even five foot five and under. But by 1932, all who did not fit the slender, tender, and tall standard had mostly disappeared from his roster. Similarly, Eileen Ford, founder of Ford Models which was set up in 1946, she was pretty rigid in how she wanted her models to look, telling them if and when they needed to lose weight. An early Ford model named Gayle explained, "We always had our makeup on. We wore high heels, and there was a time we wore white blouse and full black skirts with crinolines underneath it, and you had your little black hatbox, and you looked the part." Not every modeling job was created equal though. If you wanted to be a model, there were two career paths you could choose from, or that you were pushed to, runway modeling or photographic modeling. Runway models did catwalks, fittings and showrooms. They were more prevalent in Europe as they usually worked full-time for couturiers. Also to note, before the 1960s, runways were not what we imagined them to be today. Models were not strutting down at high speeds like in a Victoria Secret fashion show or on a Versace runway. Fashion shows or parades, as I mentioned before, were really slow. They could last as long as three hours. Models would languidly walk around the room and strike dramatic poses more than just once. Sometimes they would carry a small card which denoted the name of the gown they were wearing for ease of ordering. As Evans observed, in the 1950s, models slithered along the catwalk, at most, pulling on or off a glove. Runway models were not necessarily good looking. These fashion shows were not like big media events, there were no photographers trying to get closeups or anything, so you didn't necessarily have to be photogenic to be a runway model. One historian deemed Bronwen Pugh, a famous runway model at the time, "an untidy sulky-looking girl who made an overnight reputation for herself when she first modeled for Balmain in Paris. A reporter described her as, "That Welsh girl who drags a fur along the runway as if she had just killed it and was taking it home to her mate." Scathing. But something that has continued into the present is that, even in the early days, models tried to embody the aesthetic of the designer they were working for. Like, there was a Christian Dior walk. There was also a very famous Chanel pose where the model would have one foot forward, a flat belly head, held high, chin up, and one hand in the pocket of her skirt. Photographic models on the other hand posed for magazines and catalogs. They were usually working with Vogue or Harper's Bazaar and paid on an hourly rate. They were more visible, and therefore more prestigious and better paid. These models also had to be more photogenic than runway models for obvious reasons. It wasn't until about the 1960s when fashion became more and more inspired by the youth and by subcultures rather than by high society. Couture was out and ready to wear was in. One of the most major shows of the '60s was the 1964 Mary Quant show, which I have tried to find video footage of, but, I don't know, it's probably like deep in the archives somewhere. I was able to find like the 1963 Mary Quant show, but for some reason they skipped over 1964 on YouTube. I have no idea why. But allegedly what happened in 1964 was Mary Quant's models burst onto the runway, smiling, kicking, running, dancing. According to Mary Quant's autobiography, "Quant by Quant," one girl was carrying a shotgun and another girl was swinging around a dead pheasant, which spurted blood out everywhere even onto the journalists. Quant explained, "We managed to persuade nine of the top photographic girls to model the clothes for us. We did this because they wanted to show the clothes moving, not parading, and these girls move beautifully and naturally. They walk swingingly and when they are still for a moment, they stand arrogantly." Other designers followed Quant's direction going for impact rather than for information, which of course made fashion shows into these major media events. And then it just kind of like built up from there because a lot of designers were now looking for major magazine stars to walk their shows to get more press coverage rather than resorting to traditional runway models that were not photogenic and basically could just walk really well. Elizabeth Wissinger writes, "Models soon had to be an all-in-one package with the right walk for the runway, the right face for the camera, the right verve to stand out, making it look natural and easy all the while. Models with personality were sought after and revered. No longer a pin-money job, modeling became all-encompassing work. One did it as a career, a career so absorbing it grew into a lifestyle packaged and sold as a commodity itself." And then by the 1980s, there was a turn towards aspirational advertising, a.k.a. advertising that pushed emotional selling points linking products to symbols. To give an example of this, in the early days, a lingerie store would just be trying to sell underwear based on the way that the underwear looked, the design, just by aesthetic value, sometimes functional value, but they were just pushing a product. But, you know, Victoria's Secret ads of like the '80s and onwards, they were selling not just underwear, they were selling a lifestyle, a sexy lifestyle that would only happen to you if you bought their underwear. So in saying that, the model played a critical part in this kind of advertising. (upbeat music) The major supermodels of the '90s were Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Claudia Schiffer, and sometimes Kate Moss was included with them too. Linda, Naomi, and Christy also were part of a subgroup known as the Trinity after working consistently with photographers Steven Meisel. So what made these models super? Other than like the skill of walking and posing, the supermodel craze of the '80s and '90s was different than in previous decades because these models were now major celebrities. Beforehand, only one or two models like Barbara Golan and Twiggy would get a spotlight, but this was a whole group, and their reach was even more global because of the '80s entertainment boom. These women had whole issues of Vogue magazines dedicated to them, they had appeared on various celebrity TV shows. Cindy Crawford even published a workout video in 1992 called Shape Your Body Workout. And in 1994, Naomi Campbell published her novel about the industry called, "Swan". In 1996, Karen Mulder, Naomi Campbell, and Claudia Schiffer were immortalized as action figure dolls. And in 1998, two well-known authors published novels about models. "Model Behavior" by Jay McCaney and "Glamorama" by Bret Easton Ellis. Even teen novels were part of model mania with books like "Model Flirt" and "Picture Me Famous" hitting Shelves. Many of these models also had highly publicized relationships with famed actors, athletes, and celebrities. They also made tons and tons of money. In 1991, designer Gianni Versace decided to pay supermodels double and even triple their rates as long as he was the only designer that the models could work for during his march couture show. Vanity Fair correspondent, Colacello, explained, "Versace was the designer who pushed that concept of the supermodel as a group the furthest. Reportedly he would outbid the competition to ensure that he got all the biggest stars for the same show. In the process, inflating their rates from 10,000 to 50,000 for a half-hour appearance." Journalist Michael Gross observed that once Versace started paying extra for exclusive bookings, then all the other designers said, "I'll match that. I'll pay you the same thing, and you don't have to be exclusive." After appearing on over 300 magazine covers, Cindy Crawford won a contract with Revlon Cosmetics and also became the All-American face of Pepsi. In 1994, her gross earnings were estimated at 6.5 million. By 1988, her earnings reportedly reached 8 million. Other sources reported that Crawford, Turlington, and Evangelista, and Campbell were all earning between 20 and 30 million by this time. And by 1999, like in general, the potential value for an average model was so high that even like an untried 14-year-old could make a starting salary of $70,000 and grow to be worth like a hundred thousand to a million dollars within a few years. But it wasn't just modeling that grew as an industry, it was like the entire fashion industry that was explosive. Cable shows like CNN Style series hosted by Elsa Klensch, Behind the Velvet Ropes with Lauren Ezersky, and MTV's House of Style hosted by Cindy Crawford, brought fashion and modeling into everyone's living rooms. Interest in fashion was so high by the end of the 1990s network television produced two shows, "Veronica's Closet" about a lingerie designer, and "Just Shoot Me", a sitcom about a fashion magazine, which at the time represented a large portion of the primetime market. To paint a picture, in 1986, the Paris shows were attended by 1,875 journalists and around 150 photographers, which was nearly a fourfold increase on the figures recorded for 1976. Unfortunately, all good things do come to an end and the supermodel bubble did burst. In the late '90s, actors start endorsing commercial and fashion products virtually taking over the model's job. The reason why most actors didn't get on this business like earlier is because they felt that doing product endorsement would lower their value as a serious actor. Another big thing that happened was 9/11, which actually fell on the day that Fashion Week started in New York City. So obviously, all the shows had to be canceled, and the aftermath of that was that a lot of collections were left unsold. And then the aftermath of that is that a lot of models had to absorb the economic shock. By booker's estimates, some clients now pay just half of what they did before 9/11. Another negative thing for the modeling industry is that, the invention of TiVo. Basically, TiVo, because I know a lot of people don't even watch TV anymore, but TiVo is this technology where you can record a program and watch it later and like skip through all the commercials. So in the end, TiVo diminished the power of television advertising, which slashed models rates in this once very lucrative area of marketing. And then, also with how glamorized models lives have been marketed as being in the '80s and '90s, but even now today, who wouldn't wanna live the lifestyle of Bella Hadid or Kendall Jenner? So because of all this like glitz and glamour around the modeling profession, modeling has become a hyper competitive industry and it has low entry barriers, so what ends up happening is that there's overcrowding with a great deal of struggle for success and to stand out. In 2009, Gisele Bundchen gross 25 million in modeling contracts, but according to the occupational employment statistics, in the same year, models earned an estimated median income of $27,330. In terms of plus-size modeling because I have been talking about straight-size this whole time, even though there are some models like Ashley Graham and Crystal Renn who make bank, one plus-size model named Marilyn explains, "Plus modeling is very competitive. There are less jobs and lots of women vying for them, so therefore there are only a handful of plus models that are able to solely support themselves by modeling. Think of how many retailers there are of straight-size clothing. Literally thousands. How many plus retailers are there? See what I mean?" So what makes a successful model? How come some women are able to stand out, make millions and millions of dollars, while some are living like working class wages, having to do multiple jobs just to get by? (upbeat music) So a term that is really hard to describe is the look, which I'm sure anyone who's like got their eye in the fashion industry has heard that term being passed around by modeling agents and scouts, but you know it is something that's very hard to define. It's like the it factor for it girls. Ashley Mears describes the look as, "A special type of human capital. What sociologists Loic Wacquant in his study of boxers calls bodily capital. She goes on to describe the physical attributes that a model is supposed to have. Youthfulness, clear skin, healthy teeth, symmetrical features, and, of course, the narrow height and weight measurement requirements too. Currently, the female model is typically at least 5'9", with body measurements of a 34-inch bust, 24-inch waist, and 34-inch hips. Male models typically are 6' to 6'3", have a 32-inch waist, and a 39 to 40 inch chess. For plus-size models, they generally have to be somewhere between a woman's clothing size 10 and 18, and a minimum height of 5'8". However, most plus-size models and top modeling agencies are between sizes 10 and 14. But Mears clarifies, "This formula does not, by itself, constitute a look. Beyond this basic physique, small and subtle differences lead clients to prefer one model over another. Models, bookers, and clients refer to these differences as a model's look. Part of this something else is in the model's personality. It's the whole package of a model's being, including personality, reputation, on-the-job performance, and appearance." Yet a whole package is arbitrary. It's subjective. Helen, senior booker at Scene explains how tough it is to find the look. "Everybody's looking for the Kate Moss and Natalia Vodianova. The girl that is going to make the mega bucks. And the fact is, you can't tell whether you've got it or not until way down the line, so everyone just keeps on searching and everybody gets scouts. I find it really tough. They take people from places, and it's a lot of wasted time and a lot of people are sent home and told, 'Oh you're no good.' I think it's a shame." Obviously a model that can do any job is ideal, but most models are categorized as being editorial or commercial models. The look for editorial work tends to be edgier, and the look for commercial work tends to be softer. Most commercial girls are conventionally attractive and affectionately referred to as money girls by bookers. They work predominantly in showrooms for catalogs and for commercial print advertising. The commercial girl is cheerleader pretty, manicured, classic, and clean. A lot of bookers claim that she doesn't have to be white, just coated as middle class. Brie, a New York booker, describes her as, "Definitely pretty, like a girl that would be walking down the street and you go, 'Yeah, she's hot.' You know, heads are turning. That's what I think is catalog. Clean, all-American, very wholesome. Usually if a man from middle America thinks she's hot, then that is sort of catalog." I think that even though like everyone wants to say that this model doesn't have to be white, and obviously we are seeing a lot more racial diversity than in years past, it is a gradual progression. There's still a lot more white models in the industry, and much of the beauty standard is still based on like white Eurocentrism. And there are countless stories too where black models will show up to set and they have to bring their own foundation or they have to do their hair ahead of time because the makeup artists and hairstylists that are brought on to do the shoot don't know how to work with black hair, or they're just not carrying a diverse range of foundation shades. - [Voiceover] The realities of being a black model during fashion week. I ask who could do black makeup. Why do I look like I work in the mines? Wow, I am clapped. I told him this wasn't my color. He is trash. Ouch girl, you're hurting me. Was told to wash my hair. No one dried it until last min. The white leader tried to fix the makeup. Good try girl, but I felt ugly Af. Redid my whole face in 10 minutes. Can't go outside. It's the contour for me. (upbeat music) Yes, I ate it up like I always do. But by the time that I walked the runway, I wanted to go home. Please hire more black hair and makeup artist so we don't have to go through this. - Beyond just the fact that it's harder for models of color to get well paying jobs, or just to get jobs at all, there is is something more dangerous at play on like a widespread scale. For instance, in 2004, Harvard psychiatrist and anthropologist, Anne Becker, conducted a study and found that three years after the introduction of television into Fiji in 1995, 11.9% of adolescent girls suffered eating disorders while trying to change their Fiji and build into one that resembled the western images they were exposed to via their television sets. But anyways, back to like straight-size modeling, usually, straight-size models don't have to be like as slim as runway models, they just have to fit into sample size garments, which usually like are around a size small. But what's messed up for plus-size modeling is that a lot of retailers want to work with models on the slimmer end, so size 10s and 12s, and will just have them wear extra padding so that they can fit into the larger clothes. Sharon Quinn, a veteran plus-size model, said, "While not fully admitting to the practice of purposely hiring smaller models, Sharon Lippincott, spokesperson for Lane Bryant, acknowledged that the company used size 14 models in their advertising campaigns who were sometimes only size 14 on the bottom half of their bodies." A fit model named Samantha also noted, "They'll use padding to size a girl up. A girl may be a size 10, 12, but the client wants a solid size 14. They like her thinner face but want a bigger body, so they'll make her wear foam padding under her clothes. It's a win-win situation for smaller models. The model gets the job and the client gets the look they want. Unfortunately, it hurts larger models." Hearing this also just makes you think about how plus-size modeling is often like thought of as more representative and more inclusive, but you're still expected to conform to a set of proportions. Larissa Laurel told PLUS Model Magazine, "Some models like me are blessed with big bottoms, but our bust is on the smaller sides. So, do you know what we do? We stuff our bras with the pillow cups, which we lovingly refer to as chicken cutlets. One model I personally know wears a padded panty to help her rear end look fuller." For editorial, models are usually edgier. They look a little odd and unconventional. Their look doesn't necessarily appeal to the mass market, but editorial fashion, in general, is not supposed to appeal to the masses. She doesn't move merchandise, she communicates prestige and exclusivity. As Mirrors writes, "The more types of people with whom a model can resonate, the less exceptional she is, hence the lower value perceived or real, attached to a commercial look. It's also important to note the power of makeup in hair styling because if a model is getting recruited to be editorial, and if she's marketed as having like an edgier look, she's probably gonna get told to bleach her hair or shave her eyebrows or get a mullet to make her look even edgier. I think Iris Law is a great example of this. Before Iris shaved her head, she had a way more commercial look. But after she shaved it and bleached her hair, her look is now very edgy and high fashion. Overall, a lot of a model's work is glamour labor. And while this isn't new, like for much of the 20th century, you were expected, if you were a model, to have certain grooming habits or to follow... Or to follow a consistent... Or to follow a consistent diet. But it feels like in recent years, models have had to really nitpick certain features about themselves, like from their nail beds to their eyebrows. A makeup artist named Kay explained, "I say this is your product, and you're going to invest in it, and it is an investment, or you're not. Either you're going to find the right dermatologist, a good facialist if that's what you need, or you're going to apply yourself. Either you're going to go to a gym and you're going to tone your body the right way. You may be as skinny as a pole, but that doesn't mean that you're in the right shape. Or you might not. I'll ask if they're eating right. I'll talk to them about going to a nutritionist. Finding out what works well with your body. What they should and shouldn't be eating, and that's going to react to their energy level, how they feel emotionally, their hair and skin quality as well as their weight." Mears writes about the consequences of this hypervigilant glamour labor. "When would-be models are encouraged to think of their bodies in parts to be addressed individually and managed, in turn, women, most certainly, although recently, at least some men also, feel the pressure to seek to resemble those models by going to the gym, getting plastic surgery, and buying makeup that leaves them pixel protected." It's also a myth that plus-size models have it so much easier than straight-size models. Like I think there is a lot of talk about how plus-size models can eat just whatever they want, but there are still things that plus-size models can't do because, in essence, modeling is about maintaining a certain look even when it's natural for her bodies to morph and change over time. One plus-size fit model named Janus lost weight because she got a retainer to fix her teeth. And because the dentist told her she would have to brush her teeth every time she eat, before putting the retainer back in her mouth, she just ate less because it became such an inconvenience. And because of that, she lost 20 pounds in a series of weeks. And because she lost weight, she also lost a lot of jobs as a fit model because she no longer fit in the clothes she was supposed to be modeling. She described one account where she tried to button up a pair of pants and they just fell down to her legs. "I felt like I was being arrested. The looks I got from these people. I started to give a monologue to the directors, saying I had just had food poisoning and made cracks about eating muffins to gain the weight back." After that happened, she started binge eating carbs and cheese. And instead of like properly exercising, she would go on these very slow walks with a jar of peanut butter and just like eat it by the spoonful as she was walking. Obviously, this isn't a correct way or a healthy way to gain weight, but this is the thing that she had to do because she was literally losing her income. So going back to my initial question, what makes a successful model? Well, other than having the look, which is this very like woo woo, hard to explain trait, a lot of successful models these days are just like nepotism babies or have parents who are very wealthy. For example, the Hadid's mother is Yolanda Hadid, Lela Moss is Kate Moss's daughter, Kaia Gerber is Cindy Crawford's daughter. These are just a few examples, but it feels like everyone in the entertainment industry is related to, in some form or another, to someone else who's rich and famous. And I'm not saying like every nepotism baby is untalented. Like, I think that Bella Hadid is a very talented runway model. I think that in the acting world, Laura Dern is a really massively talented actress. She's one of my favorite actresses of all time. - If you wanna see the greatest performance of 2006, check out Laura Dern's performance in "Inland Empire". - But when you do have a parent in the industry, it obviously gives you advantages because your parent probably knows someone like a booking agent or they know a big photographer, or they know like a PR person that will help you get your career jump started. Nepotism babies also tend to have more money to put into glamour labor, like Bella Hadid famously had a lot of work done on her face. And just even on like the lower... (coughs) Oh my God. Even just on like the lower end of glamour labor, like, getting your hair bleached once a month, it racks up in costs. That's like $300 an appointment, which can be a struggle for a lot of models who are starting out who don't come from money. 'Cause even when you're getting jobs like as a model, and this is just like what I've noticed with a lot of kind of like freelancer-y jobs, you don't get paid until much later after you do the job. A lot of the times, you don't get paid for 30 days. A lot of the times, you don't get paid until 90 days after. So for you to be able to float along between those pay periods, it requires you to have a pretty comfortable balance in your bank account beforehand, which means not living paycheck to paycheck. And just like beyond all those logistics, since like aspirational modeling boomed in the 1980s, it's just more profitable for brands to work with well-known people, with celebrities, with influencers than it is for them to work with just like a random model who's good at her job. Because brands know that if they're working with a celebrity or an influencer, that person has a large following. So it's also like not just using this person's image, it's getting their followers to buy products too. There's multiple advantages than just having like a really sick ad campaign. And also if like your mom is a model or a celebrity, and you're like an 18-year-old who's just like starting to come out into this industry, there's a lot of press that is driven towards you because people are like, "Oh, is she gonna live up to her mom's name?" There's more interest in following you, and brands know that, so they're gonna go for Kaia Gerber rather than like some girl from Ohio, unfortunately. Okay, that's all I have for today. I feel like my video ended up kind of like deflating in terms of like optimism, but it is a really, really tough industry. And I do have friends who are models, and some of them have like quit modeling, some of them still enjoy it. So I have like witnessed this kind of like range of success, but it is really tough and I don't really know if it's gonna get better just because there's just so much competition these days. But I am interested in hearing what you all have to say about that, whether you think the modeling industry has gone downhill. Yeah, just like your thoughts about other things in this video. As always, I hope you have a lovely rest of your day and I'll see you next time. Bye. (lip smacks)
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Keywords: supermodel, modeling, naomi campbell, christy turlington, linda evangelista, kate moss, kaia gerber, bella hadid, claudia schiffer, video essay, mina le, fashion history, commentary, mary quant, kendall jenner, gigi hadid, victoria's secret, plus size
Id: 65tc_KzZQ98
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 36min 55sec (2215 seconds)
Published: Tue Nov 15 2022
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