the obsession with dupes, fakes, and counterfeits

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- This video is brought to you by Squarespace, an all-in-one platform for building your brand and growing your business online. Hello hello, my beautiful doves! My name is Mina. I make fashion, culture, and ... Media commentary videos. Usually when I'm not sick. So if you can hear some like, nasally sounds, it's because I'm sick today. It's that time of the year again, AKA post fashion week, and everyone in the fashion industry knows that fashion weeks are like, major super spreader events, and people inevitably get sick afterwards. So I just wanted to give that disclaimer in case you hear some like, sniffly ASMR. That's the reason. Okay, so today I wanna talk about dupe culture. I've been actually wanting to talk about dupe culture for a long time now. Like I even drafted like a podcast episode several months ago, and then I don't know what happened there, but I just didn't do it. But you know, my interest in dupes was reignited because of a couple things that happened to me last month. Happened to me, like, things that I saw on the internet. The first thing is that, last month, my TikTok For You page was just full of Emily Mariko tote bag reaction videos. For the uninitiated, Emily Mariko is a pretty popular TikToker who posts a lot of cooking blog type of videos, but I guess the main characteristic that differentiates her from like, others of the same niche, is that she rarely ever talks in these videos, and the way that she presents herself is very like, minimalist that girl. (chopping sounds) Anyway, she released a tote bag for sale a few weeks ago in two different colors, called the Farmer's Market tote, and people were frankly appalled to see that these tote bags were $120. Emily defenders point out that the Erewhon Traveler Bag, which looks similar, costs even more at $138, and there's hardly any outrage about that, though not sure if we should be using Erewhon prices as a standard. And they also claim that Emily has always been quite luxury adjacent and selling a cheap tote bag would be off brand for her. Much of this discourse also lent itself to dupe videos, where people featured similar products that cost a fraction of the price. For example, TikToker Basmah Masood did a quick Amazon search and found a similar tote bag available in twice as many colors for only $16. But you know, what I really wanna know about this whole situation is, why did this tote bag release make everyone suddenly want to buy a tote bag to begin with? Like, I think there are definitely different types of tote bags, and some of them do justify a higher price point, like if they're made of leather, and have extra details or trimmings. Like if they're a generally nice bag in the shape of a tote. But a grocery store shopping tote bag, no zip top, cotton canvas. Do we all not have at least like, 10 of these under our sinks? I feel like the more common thing is like, how do I get rid of my tote bags? Well anyway, another related thing I did in the past month was binge Singles Inferno, which is this Korean dating show. I wanna say it's kind of like Love Island, but I've never seen Love Island. I just assume that it's similar to Love Island. It's just like, hot people that are stranded on an island and they have to like, match-make each other by the end of the show. And some people do leave still single, because the person that they like doesn't like them back. But yeah, the gist of the show is that you're supposed to find someone by the end of a week on this deserted island. I only watched the first season because I try to put a cap on reality TV for myself, but I have some friends who've watched it all, and one of them told me that after season one aired, the most popular girl, the diamond of this season, if you will, Song Ji-ah, was canceled, for wearing fake designer clothing on the show. Like, literally canceled! She was edited out of an episode of this other variety show called The Manager after the scandal broke out, and she had to issue a public apology on social media, so it was pretty bad. The Instagram post that she posted, where her apology in, is now deleted, but this is what it said translated. "I apologize once again for all the circumstances that have occurred due to infringing on designers' creations and ignorance of copyrights. As someone who has a dream of launching a brand, I will seriously recognize and reflect on the controversial parts." While there were a bunch of people upset on behalf of these luxury brands, hence why Song Ji-ah was pointing this out in her apology, Se-Woong Koo, editor of Korean Exposé said, "Actually, the biggest crime alleged was that she was a fake, and that she pretended to be something that she is not. That was the issue that kept being raised, time and time again. Her supposed rich background is what made her attractive, not that she was a hardworking influencer, or that she was successful on her own and making a lot of money. People said they were following her because they thought she was a gold spoon." For context, a gold spoon is usually a child of a super rich family, like from the top 1% of high income households in South Korea. So a lot of Song's fans liked her for her aspirational lifestyle, and so were disappointed to realize that it was inauthentic. It'd be kind of like if Sophia Richie Grange, for some reason, which is not even possible, because we literally have so much information about her family. It's like if she admitted that like, everything she wore was fake and that she doesn't actually have money. People like her because she's rich. While I think the backlash against Song Ji-ah was kind of harsh, though I'm not Korean, so what do I know? I just think it's interesting that for a long time, in America, there was at least some sort of similar stigma tied to wearing fakes. - But staring into that trunk, they no longer look like elegant Fendi bags. They just looked cheap. You know what? I don't think so. - But now it's sort of like a positive thing to be able to find a dupe for an existing expensive product, to the point where people like, are openly talking about it, and sharing dupes on social media, and even gaining a following for sharing dupes on social media. Of course there's still limits, but overall dupe culture has really shifted in the last five years or so. So let's talk about it. (static) I've been a Squarespace partner for over a year now because I honestly think they're the most user-friendly way to build a website. They've always had tons of templates to choose from, but when they released their drag and drop fluid engine design feature, this was like, a major game changer for website customization. They also have all the neat business tools you'd want, like powerful built-in analytics, so you can track who's visiting your site and more with page views, traffic sources, time on site, most read content, audience geography, et cetera. And you can also use Squarespace to set up a store if you have merch to sell, or subscription services to sell. It's all just like, super easy to set up, no HTML knowledge necessary. Check out squarespace.com for a free trial, and when you're ready to launch, go to squarespace.com/minale to get 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain. - One bag, two bag, three bag, four. - Bags bags bags. - Five bags, six bags, seven bags more. Jesus Christ. - Jesus Christ. - Just as a disclaimer, for this video, I decided not to go too deep into the exploitation of labor within the production of making these dupes because I feel like I've addressed fast fashion and all of that before. And for this video I really wanted to just focus on the idea of design theft in general. But if you wanna look at previous commentary I've made on fast fashion and labor exploitation within fashion, my most recent video on sweaters touches on it, and I did make an entire video on SHEIN a couple years ago. A dupe or a knockoff is a cheaper alternative, but very similar product. The dupe does not brand itself as the actual product, and this is why dupes are typically legal, because they do not violate the intellectual property rights of the original company, because they don't claim to be the original product. Some people will call clothing items that are similar but not identical, still dupes. So for instance, TikToker Erica Dowdy mentioned a pair of pajamas that were an alternative for the Djerf Avenue fruit pajamas. More on that later. And some people would call these a dupe, but because these pajamas look totally different, I wouldn't consider them dupes, just an alternative. Counterfeit good or replica is a blatant copy of an original product that uses the same logos and tags, and is illegal, because they use another company's trademarks. These are like the fake Chanel bags with the monograms that are really difficult to tell are fakes, unless you're an authenticator, or unless you're someone who owns a lot of Chanel bags. A lot of people nowadays interchangeably use all these words, which I think is why there's so many contradictory takes about dupes on the internet. But for the sake of this video, we're going to respect these initial legal definitions. But just because a knockoff or dupe doesn't have a logo on it doesn't mean there isn't clear design theft. The Selkie dress knockoffs come to mind. But Greg Schatten, a New York based attorney in the brand protection practice, at McCarter & English said, "without the trademark dimension, a knockoff case can be much more challenging than a counterfeit case. Clothing or accessory designs are typically not covered by copyright law." Yeah, you heard it here! The only things our copyright law will protect with respect to clothes are graphic designs, textile designs, and logos. They will not protect color, cut, or shape of the clothes. But even with these guidelines, it's still confusing, because it's like, based on a case by case basis. For example, the copyright office rejected Coach's registration application for a fabric design containing a pattern consisting of two linked Cs facing each other, alternating with two unlinked Cs facing in the same direction. The reason being that letters of the alphabet and the arrangements of that letter C were not sufficiently creative or original enough, which is pretty like, crazy to me, because I feel like if I saw any other bag that had this kind of pattern, I'd be like, "This is a Coach knockoff." This is so clearly tied to the Coach brand, but the copyright law will not protect it. And I get why copyright won't protect every design element, because if that were the case, designers would literally not be able to put out, like, any new collections. Fashion is a very evolutionary medium, and a lot of designers will like, build their collections off of other designers and find inspirations in that way. If for instance, like, high-rise jeans were copyrighted by a particular brand, that would mean that that brand would be the only brand that could produce high rise jeans, and that would just be so silly. But the flip side of this is that there are a lot of bad corporations that will blatantly steal the entire product design of another brand, and there's just no way to punish them for it. And despite counterfeit being illegal, it's still not easy to stop it. Many manufacturers are based offshore, so they're difficult to locate, and then, even if the manufacturer is legitimate, they could be running a third shift that goes out the back door to a friend or relative who runs the distribution of counterfeit goods. And especially with E-commerce and how easy it is for counterfeiters to jump from platform to platform and switch to different hosts, it's just like this endless cat and mouse game to issue cease and desist letters. Unfortunately, controlling counterfeit has been a problem for a really long time, so I thought it'd be fun just to look at like the early 20th century to see what that environment was like, because you know, we love history on this channel. - Fake, fake, fake, fake. (canned laughter) - In the early 20th century, and maybe some people would say still today, Paris was the epicenter of high fashion. The price for a couture dress, AKA dress that was made to measure, usually very intricate, and made from expensive fabrics, was very unaffordable for the common person. So illegal copy houses attempted to recreate these couture dresses, and sell them at lower price points. In 1929, Lucian Klotz, Secretary General of the Society of Authors and Artist Rights, estimated the number of copy houses in Paris at more than 100. France, by the way, has stricter laws protecting original fashion design. So, how were these copy houses able to reproduce couture gowns? Workers, intermediaries, and even clients themselves, could be paid off in exchange for sketches, mockups, and original dresses. When I talk about clients, I mean like, there were some wealthy lady, well, I guess they weren't that wealthy, who would lend their original dresses to be borrowed by these copy houses so that they could, you know, make a pattern out of this dress, and they would pay a fee, but then they would give them back those original dresses, and it was like, one way that you could like, hustle and make a little bit of income back from spending an exorbitant amount of money on a particular dress. In 1931, workers and models of couture houses could be paid an average of 50 to 100 French francs for sneaking a new design out. (speaks foreign language) Not only was it bad that they were stealing creative property from these couturiers, but copy houses were most likely making more money too. It was a general thing that clients could pay late for their purchases, because it was considered rude to chase up clients for money. And also, many clients actually purposely paid late as a way of signaling their own prestige. But copy houses, on the other hand, required all transactions to be immediate and in cash, because they were operating illegally and needed the sales to be finalized as quickly as possible. The French couturier, Madeleine Vionnet, was very prolific in suing anyone who dared to copy her designs. She also photographed all her models and put a date and serial number on every picture, and started producing a label marked with her own thumbprint in order to authenticate each of her creations. She was known for modifying her models at very short notice before openings, and for installing dyeing facilities inside of her house that she would use to change the colors of the clothes she was planning to model, just like on a whim, to throw off copiers. Unfortunately, all this didn't totally prevent copying, as we can see with this unauthorized reproduction of her 1924 "little horses" dress. Coco Chanel had a bit of a different attitude. Chanel was sometimes amused by the lengths people would go to copy her, and in her American perfume advertisements, Chanel played it as a joke, advertising herself as the quote, "Most copied and popular couturier, ardent sponsor of youth." Maybe part of the reason why she was more nonchalant with copiers was because she also sold her own fabrics, so she was able to at least make some income off of people buying her fabric to copy her. And there's at least one account of Chanel taking inspiration from copiers as well. According to Marcel Haedrich, who wrote his book, "Coco Chanel: Her life, her secrets", Chanel's Press Secretary once bought a Chanel knockoff she saw someone selling in the street, for 50 francs, to show to her boss. It was a dress made of white linen with braided trim, a detail that the original actually lacked. Chanel took one look at the raffia-like plaiting, and decided to use raffia in her next collection. But not all copying was illegal. Beginning in the 1920s, foreign retailers would buy couture designs that they would then use to create their own line of dresses, usually for half the cost. The copying was regulated by the Chambre Syndicale, which is the governing body of French couture. Foreign retailers would have to obtain buyers cards from the Chambre Syndicale, and pay on an advance on a purchase in order to gain entry to the show's opening. However, despite these measures, some designers still felt the Chambre Syndicale wasn't the most effective at regulating copying. Cristóbal Balenciaga, for instance, was the first couturier to step outside the Chambre Syndicale system in 1956. (speaks foreign language) Rather than showing during the official Paris shows with the rest of the couturiers, he put on two separate shows. The first was a private initial show for his clients and retail buyers, and then the second show was hosted a month later, where fashion journalists were invited. Balenciaga did this because he was getting annoyed with journalists publishing his designs, which then would lead manufacturers and retailers to just copy the descriptions and illustrations that they published of his clothes, without purchasing his approved originals first. With this new system, he was able to get ahead of the press, and make some sales before getting duped. (speaks foreign language) So that's just the brief early history of counterfeit fashion. Nowadays, it seems way more common for counterfeiters to recreate a designer bag than to recreate like, an entire designer couture gown. But what's also interesting is that now, there are also respected designers who play with a theme of counterfeiting by duping other designers. For example, at his fall 2007 runway show, Yohji Yamamoto debuted a newly created YY logo, that was very similar to the Louis Vuitton monogram. No lawsuits were fired, however. But just because lawyers don't get involved doesn't mean all designers are happy to be the inspiration for their peers, especially if there are perceived minimal differences between the original and the dupe. For example, Oscar de la Renta famously told the Times Magazine in 2002, "Recently I saw a photo of a coat I made in 1967. It's a full length white vinyl with scattered sequins. Three years ago, Marc Jacobs made the identical coat." But Mr. De la Renta may not be in the clear fully himself, as the critic Holly Brubeck even said that his fond relationship to Yves Saint Laurent's designs probably warranted paying royalties. (indistinct) wrote of the general situation for the LA Times. "Half of fashion, in fact, seems to owe its professional existence to a single truism: one is as original as the obscurity of one's source." - In 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns, and then I think it was Yves Saint Laurent, wasn't it? And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers. - Of course, nowadays with fast fashion, knockoffs have become more common than ever before. In 2021, Vox reported that ultra fast fashion giant SHEIN can copy a look and get it into production in less than a week. - That's like $3,000! - Or 150! Fake. - [Charlotte] Oh my god! - [Mina] In 2023, 61% of Gen Zers said they use TikTok most often to find dupes. According to a survey of 3000 millennial and Gen Z consumers from the US, the UK, and Italy, conducted by the Consumer Review Platform at Trustpilot. - Target dupes! - Target dupes! - Your grandmother's precious pearls, dupe. - Chicken cutlet, dupe. - Justin and Britney, dupe. - Doug Dimmadome, dupe. - All you have to do on TikTok is open your app and type in the search bar, "Lululemon dupe" or whatever, and you'll get a bunch of videos of creators sharing their resources. For example, if we're just gonna stay on the same topic of leggings, TikTokers swear by the brand CRZ Yoga, which sells a $27 pair on Amazon, as an exact dupe of Lululemon's $100 Align leggings. CRZ Yoga sells over 80,000 pairs a month, according to data from the E-commerce analytics firm, Jungle Scout, published on routers. I imagine there's even more incentive now to share your dupes because of the platform's controversial new feature, TikTok Shop, which is essentially an in-app shopping feature, which allows users to buy products directly from a creator's video, and that creator gets a commission every time. I say it's controversial because I don't know any user who actually likes TikTok Shop. Like I get so many unwarranted videos on my For You page that are TikTok Shop videos, and they just come off as like, MLM schemes, or it feels like I'm watching the QVC channel. It's just, it's very weird and uncanny, and I hate it. - [Nasal Voice] If you are someone who literally can never (indistinct) you're gonna stop scrolling. This product is gonna go viral, and it's gonna sell fast. (indistinct) TikTok shop, this product's gonna change your life. - Anyway. What's the most surprising for me, having been a girl who had Fuggs, or fake UGGs, in middle school, and was very embarrassed by that, especially because they were legitimate dupes, so they weren't trying to be UGGs. They were from Old Navy, looked nothing like real UGGs, definitely didn't have the UGGs label, definitely didn't even keep my feet warm, and meanwhile, all the girls in my school had real UGGs, and were obsessed with like, the Clique book series, which is about a group of popular rich 12-year-olds who bully scholarship students for having no money and not wearing designer clothes. Anyway, I'll unpack that all in therapy. I'm just shocked that a lot of people today are so proud of their dupes. Ellen Briggs, a brand analyst at the research company Morning Consult, said, "It's become a point of pride, almost, for young people to say, 'I found this dupe that's just as good as this more expensive product.'" On one hand, I can understand trying to save money, I think we all can. Morning Consult's survey found that 49% of dupe shoppers reported an annual household income of under $50,000, and 67% of those consumers said saving money was a major factor when considering buying a dupe. I think social media also allows for us to have vulnerable conversations about the economy, and personal finances, hence why there was a whole TikTok trend a bit ago called loud budgeting, which is the idea that you should start being more transparent about not being able to afford something when with family or friends. In this context, duping can feel like a smart economic way to buy something you want, and sharing dupes can be seen as a way to help out your community. Lorenzo Salamone has also written about the simplification of design, like the idea that almost every brand has their own version of a Stan Smith or Converse shoe, and how buying knockoffs and fakes could be a reaction to brands' tactic of selling inexpensively produced branded products. At the same time, a lot of popular creators also can grow a following or get a commission if they advertise their dupes on TikTok Shop or their Amazon storefront. This has also de-stigmatized dupes from being just a working class, middle class stereotype. The other argument to defend duping is that the consumers buying a dupe would never buy the original product to begin with, and therefore the original product is not losing sales. Sure, for larger corporations, it's easy for them to shrug off duping or even use it to their advantage. For example, Lululemon threw a dupe swap event in LA last year, where they allowed people to swap a pair of their dupe leggings for a pair of real, authentic Align leggings. The optimistic outcome would be that these initial young dupers would eventually put their money towards Lululemon once they have the means to do so. It's about like, creating brand loyalty in the long term. For small designers, it's a lot more difficult to say it's no big deal. Kimberly Gordon, founder of the brand Selkie, was interviewed by the Washington Post about her experience dealing with dupes. She talks about how she's seen dupemakers on Amazon stealing her brand's photos to sell a low quality version of her dress. Photography is so expensive. Like to pay for a professional photographer and to pay for models and to pay for the location rental, to pay for retouching services, to pay for like a makeup artist, hairstylist, to pay for a clothing stylist, if you have a lot of different pieces, the costs that go into a photo shoot are enormous, and these are all costs that a small business takes on, on top of the actual designing and manufacturing of the clothing. So it's just like it's, it's really just audacious. Gordon would then, after coming across these Amazon dupes, send the links to her lawyer, but a new dupe would spring up somewhere, and influencers would promote it. As the journalist Maura Judkis writes, "Knocking off a massive corporation like Lululemon might make a gal feel like the Robin Hood of seamless yoga tops, but it's different for smaller labels. Gordon, who only has 15 full-time employees, says every dupe took a chunk out of her potential livelihood." Gordon addresses the argument that dupe consumers would not necessarily shell out for the original product, but she also says, "If there wasn't a dupe, they would have no other choice. If they really wanted one, they might save up and get one. It makes my brand look and feel cheaper to have cheap copies of my brand out there." Matilda Djerf, founder of Djerf Avenue, and also an influencer, actually got in hot water last year for trying to take down videos of TikTokers promoting dupes of her brand. The situation was, a bunch of small creators made videos mentioning dupes of her clothing line, specifically dupes of these fruit print pajamas that she was selling. And then Matilda, or her team, probably her team, flagged a bunch of those videos for copyright infringement, because I guess her company had copyrighted the fruit print design. But the common point against Matilda was that Djerf Avenue produces a lot of clothes that are actually similar in design to clothes that Matilda already owned, that were made by other brands, and in a way, one could say that Djerf Avenue was selling dupes, which would make this whole copyright infringement endeavor hypocritical. I personally don't agree with this take because Matilda wears a lot of basics, and whether or not you agree, the reality is that almost every brand sells basics. It'd be silly to say that producing your own basic trench coat is duping. Unless that trench coat also happens to have the Burberry check on the interior, then that would be bad. But a straight up like, plain trench coat? I have to give it a pass. Other people claim that Matilda is an influencer, so it's ironic that she would want people to stop copying her, when that's like the bread and butter of her career. Either way, she got so much hate for it that she had to temporarily delete her TikTok account. My personal feelings were that she and her team should just let it rest because, unfortunately duping is almost guaranteed for any small business, and I think trying to fight it through TikTok is only going to hurt your brand, because her team was basically just fighting like, creators who are smaller than Matilda. Like, people only want a small business fighting big businesses. They don't want small businesses punching down onto smaller creators. I do feel for her, because I hate design theft on principle, and I mean, she's lucky enough to have a successful career, but on principle, especially for a non-influencer, design theft can really make or break a small designer's income. I have bought dupes in the past, but I'm at a point in my life right now where I won't buy a dupe, and if I can't afford the original, then I'm fine with just not owning something like it in my closet. And much of that realization is thankfully from earning more money, but also befriending designers, becoming more educated on clothing quality, because I think another reason why consumers are able to accept fast fashion knockoffs so readily is because many consumers are unaware or don't care about clothing quality. So let's address the first point, right? A lot of consumers are unaware of what they deserve. And no one's to blame for that. The majority of clothing consumers are not attending fashion shows where they can see the way the clothes move on the body. Many of them are not even shopping in person, where they can feel the clothes in their hands. They're scrolling through E-commerce websites, where the clothes are inevitably flat, and where many product descriptions don't even list the clothing's fabrics, the percentages of said fabrics, where those fabrics are sourced, and or by who they're being sewn by. And we're scanning photos of clothes that are being modeled by people with probably different body proportions than us, and just hoping that these clothes will fit when they show up at our door. It also just doesn't help that, in general, clothes are just made worse now than ever before, with even some luxury brands cutting corners. The other point is, a lot of people just don't care about clothing quality! A lot of the times, Amazon sellers will sell you a product that might look like the original in photos, they might even use the original photos, but in real life the fabric might be a lot thinner or lower quality. The construction might be sloppy, and or the pattern might be printed rather than embroidered. And many people know that, but they still justify buying it because they're only planning to wear this item once or twice. Brian Walker, Chief Strategy Officer at digital E-Commerce company, BloomReach, who's previously worked at Amazon, says, "It's not about longevity, it's about finding an outfit for Coachella or to post on social media." I read this Substack essay, "Is this the year we stop dressing like clones of each other?" by Liza Belmont, and in it she writes, "If the enlightened critics leaving comments on my TikTok videos, 'That outfit is so ugly, LMFAO,' are to be believed, there is bad taste and there is good taste. This is just simply not true. There's only personal taste. We tend to believe that what everyone is wearing is the right thing to wear, and as a result, we're deterred to take risks with our style. Public figures who express their personalities through their clothing are rare, and those who do are shunned for having no taste, being weird, or even doing it for attention." People who also don't conform to marketable mainstream styles have more difficulty gaining a following too, because they can't use popular hashtags or tag big brands who might repost them. So I find like, the biggest fashion influencers tend to have very marketable, on-trend styles, which also feeds into this idea that we need to be participating in trends because the taste makers are all trendy. So the result is people just go on this like, endless goose chase to test out new trends that emerge, wanting more and more clothes, which means good quality takes a backseat, if we wanna be somewhat fiscally responsible. There's also the idea that there are too many luxury brands right now in the market, and you just can't support them all. You have to cut corners somewhere. I personally feel this way about Substack newsletters and Patreons. Many writers have gone freelance now, and each of them charges like five to $10 a month as a subscription model for access to their essays. I'm not saying that they should all be writing for free, but the result is that we have to pick and choose who we want to financially support, because it's just not possible to support everyone. - One thing led to another and, before I knew it, we were shopping. - Rachel Solomon wrote an essay earlier this month about dupes, but analyzed them through the consumer perspective. She talks about her own experience wanting a Celine skirt from 2014, but the price was way over her budget, like around $2600. She then found a similar skirt with the same design and cut from the brand Alice and Olivia, and purchased it for about $325. Alice and Olivia is not fast fashion, hence the cost. Still, Solomon noticed a difference. She writes, "I didn't feel great when I wore it. There was some corner cutting about the fabric. It felt very synthetic, and the way that the print was set. All it made me do was miss the original. That $325 was a complete waste of money. Years and years later, I found the original Celine on YOOX, I think for 600 or $800. Still not cheap, but a lot less costly than that wasted $325. I bought it and I still have it. I still wear it regularly. I still feel like my best self when I'm in it. And if I do wanna sell the skirt at any time, I always get offers. For a skirt that's now a decade old. That's why I could find an image of it online. These Celine skirts are either with their original owners, or are part of fashion circularity. But I tried a million different searches for the Alice and Olivia dupe, and of course found nothing. There is no market for it." She says though, that if she still couldn't afford the original skirt at $600, she still would never have bought the dupe. Instead, what she suggests is figuring out what we want from these original items. For her, she liked the whimsy and feeling of lightness that the Celine skirt embodied. And so she suggests that, rather than looking for an affordable dupe, look for an item of clothing that has the same spirit, so to speak. The only cases I can think of that maybe justify buying dupes is if the original doesn't carry your clothing size. But all in all, I think at the end of the day, a corporation like Lululemon is not going to suffer too badly from some people buying dupes of their leggings. But with a small business, I wanna promote saving up for, or at least respecting their design ownership. And also, my experience is that some small designers will work with me on custom sizing if I personally email them. I'm petite. So I usually request shorter hemlines, which I know is totally different from pattern grading to, say a bigger size. But who knows? Maybe they'll be able to, especially if they do all their own production, like in-house. The last thing I'll quote from Solomon is this. "The idea of a dupe underlines our worst, 'have-to-have-it-now tendencies.' The blame for that goes to the Zaras of the world, not you. We are conditioned that we so need to have this one exact thing at this one exact time. And so we're excited to discover a meh replacement, or worse, to learn that someone has ripped off someone else's idea. When in other areas of our lives, we'd be completely appalled." Writer Jonah Weiner of the newsletter Blackbird Spy Plane wrote about what he calls "the CIRLOC mindset", which stands for Cop-IRL-Only challenge. And this mindset is about shopping in person as much as possible, to avoid the doom scroll of E-commerce shopping that can lead to over consumption. And to also avoid algorithms, trying to shape your own personal style. Obviously there are limitations, especially if you don't live in a place with a lot of cool shops. And of course there are also plenty of small businesses that only operate online, because brick and mortar is expensive. And I'm also not going to knock the idea that sometimes you really just do need something immediately. But I think the idea of the CIRLOC mindset is important. I've been one to mindlessly scroll and shop while watching TV or while waiting in line at the grocery store, and it can get really bad. You know, I could be saving so much more money if I set limits on that behavior, and in turn, could be saving for something that I really wanted, that I ruled out initially as not being able to afford. So that's all I have for today. Things to think about. I wanna emphasize that this is like a judgment-free zone. I don't know anyone's personal circumstances, but my own. And so, you know, these are just suggestions that if they align for where you are in your life, that's great, but if not, hope you learn something fun, or had an amazing time listening to my sick person voice. And I'll catch you next time. Okay, see ya!
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Channel: Mina Le
Views: 750,248
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: tiktok, dupe, culture, commentary, video essay, fashion, history, shopping, amazon, aliexpress, shein, fast fashion, environment, mina le, matilda djerf, djerf avenue, selkie, strawberry dress, microtrend, coachella, instagram, tiktok shop, overconsumption
Id: Z6UBKEz4EUw
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 32min 37sec (1957 seconds)
Published: Wed Feb 28 2024
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