Milling an 80% Lower on a Ghost Gunner CNC

so you want to turn this piece of aluminum yes that's all this is is a chunk of aluminum in a certain shape into a firearm that's what this is this is already done I'll give you an option you can do it with the little plates and stuff like that or I'm gonna show you guys today as you read in the the title how to use the ghost gunner so bring me and let's show you the ghost gun will show you the setup and how truly simple it is it's a bit of an expensive investment but it's pretty cool so come on in here's what you got this is my dirty cuz it's been sitting for a while ghost gutter um this is a ghost gutter tooth and I bought back when I was working at a gun store I got a bit of a discount these things oh let's see I think they run about 22 to 24 hundred right now they just came out with a new series so if you are interested in getting one you can either pick up the two which works perfectly fine I still have it and we're gonna keep it we're probably a little bit cheaper on eBay or you can pick up the three threes a little bit faster or quieter it's got some newer features but the two is pretty good comes with a bundle of things cables you're gonna need a computer that can run their cutting code which is off screen right now we're gonna show you all that you need what else you need you're gonna need some of the stuff that's in here and don't take you through what it is to set this thing up and get moving so need an 80% lower obviously this is like I said in the intro a chunk of aluminum that's all this is there's nothing special about this this comes straight to your front door because all it is is a machine chunk of aluminum without a fire control unit there's no fire control slot in here so this is a fully machined and you can see I've used the ghost gunner already this is a fully machined ar-15 lower this is the lower we're actually going to use for the m16 build that we're going to be working on simply because it's more accurate for the m16 with having the slot down here where this one is a like a billet and we're also going to next video we're gonna engrave some stuff here to make it even look more authentic but anyways when we get to that later get that get your parts let's get set up and start making chips here all right okay so here's what we got computer running the software that you can download from your website it's called DD cut they have a Mac and Windows version I think they may even have a Linux version I don't know you just need some sort of computer doesn't have to be brand new to run the cutting code this is a 2013 MacBook Air and it works great I need your ghost gunner you need your 80% lower I believe this is actually one of their 80% lowers I can't quite remember might not be I can't remember doesn't matter just about every 80% in lower will work and there's a big community out there making jigs for alternative 80 percent loaders that don't fit perfectly into these jeans so what we're gonna do is I'm going to take you through the process of cutting this this is really straightforward there's software gives you an awesome step-by-step on everything you need to do it'll be about 10 minutes of setup probably give or take it'll cut for about an hour to half to two hours we'll do a tool change cut for another hour tool change cut for about 15 minutes and you're done it's ready to go and I have fired one of these with the cuts and it seems to work fine so anyways no those kind of found we need to select our ghost gunner it's currently in that USB we need to select what we're going to cut so on here they have three options the pocket the pins in the selector we're going to do all three so we're gonna do the entire group which is pocket pans and selector open it up hit next remove some of this off the top for now it does have a spindle warm up cycle so we're gonna hit next and you can see it's taking you through everything make sure the ghost cutter is empty ghost cutter hit yes and we're gonna warm the spindle up it's gonna go through and move a couple things do you see it already moving I'll be back with you guys in about you can see the stepper motors oh it's really cool I really love watching this so it's checking everything out making sure it's all good see it should come back in we're gonna do a tool change on it and then it'll do the spindle warm up oh yeah you can see all the code running through it alright so we're going to do what it says insert the three T nuts and they go the picture describes basically two up front one in the back on the back corner next thread or collet nut in [Music] see you down so you can insert our in little anything I can play my end milling here and there is our three from Jindal so here is our end mill now they tell you I don't know if they tell you what size it is now insert the quarter inch it's a quarter inch end mill quarter inch handle goes in here we go make sure you're in Mills ARF as far back as possible because that is a pivotal part in mill goes all the way back you're going to tighten down your comet next snug up the comet so it's 12 inch or 12 mil I'm going to Snug down your collet okay so mix up what we are going to do is install the jig so this actually works off with a jig that sits into this machine it's asking that you put your jig together so I mean just like the picture ar-15 goes like that I'm sorry this is just a chunk of aluminum so your chunk of aluminum this is not anything important because just like that your jig will fit nicely on the left side of your receiver okay next the other part of your jig the bottom section clips right into the bottom here just like that next we're gonna insert one of our bits [Music] you find it real quick any one set now I believe it's actually this one it's the medium sized one that goes through there we go yeah medium sized and it should only protrude a little bit on the back you're going to put a nut on into the bit that it's the bit I keep saying bit into this part we're going to snow this demo you want it a little bit snug so it doesn't come off and it won't rotate next thing is you're going to take your probe well probe this is the electrode part the way this machine works is it probes a metallic connection so it needs an electrical connection like between here and this and it does that by grounding your tool to the machine and then this knows it'll touch off and know when it's grounded and that's when you're good to cutting so take this we put this piece goes key in on the left side it'll split through that slot right there just like that and you can see it comes out the bottom or you can see it from the bottom then we're going to insert our grip screw thread that in stop good to go we're taking the nut off the back side the editor careful don't pull too much because this is needs to stay attached you're gonna take your same bolts you can use the same exact bolt and there's a little plastic piece that is of vital importance this one here bolt goes through with the little protrusion sticking forward this will then go into here and clamp it all together so put that in we're gonna put two more one more here and one more here so they go through from the right side to the left side sit that aside for now hit next empty position I'm gonna put a chief guard on for now Coast Guard is going to move hey yes you'll see though it's going to move up take this out all right before this bend the warm up I keep saying that you guys will see it eventually don't worry this is gonna have to sit in just like this these two hex head screws will sit into those two nuts this one back here will sit back there they'll tighten it down and then you will adjust it do you touch against this correctly so let me grab the right and and I'm just doing it finger tight just barely finger tight so you can still move this see like that back and forth in the bed and it'll tell you next slide the jig all the way to the right until it bumps up against the the spindle until it bumps up against your end mill and they gonna want to back it off a tiny bit so it doesn't have to be precise it's going to measure itself a 3d space in a second but basically just back it off so when you look down in there just like that it's not touching so you don't want this metal actually ground it to this yet see next tighten everything up I'm gonna take you from the back to the front wait [Music] do one more good smother pitch tuck this wiring because I don't want to get crushed or anything remove your wrench and saw a chip card this is magnetic clips right in hit next ghost gunner will move again and this I believe it's less the spin up yeah so starting this findell [Music] warm-up spindle process I think this takes between five and ten minutes so I'm gonna pause and I'll be back when the spindles warmed up and I'll let you know how long it took all right it's been about six minutes better than five or six minutes of warmup we're now going to perform the pro operation so what's gonna happen what should happen is it's grounded down here the pro has electricity running through it it will come in touch off on the inside of the magwell touch up all the I think the top of the magwell and then maybe the side as well and that will tell it where the magwell is in 3d space all the calculations will then be made off of that as it runs probing operation I usually watch the probing operation if this isn't set up correctly if you're using a plastic receiver and doing some sort of work around with like copper tape or if you have a receiver that is already Sarah coded or something like that this can crash in the sense that you can't get a good enough connection through down here and it will just keep going because it never finds that ground so I always kind of watch there's a mergency stop button somewhere on here I think you just hit quit you can emergence and stop the Machine and then it'll back itself out so I always watch to make sure it works correctly let's do the program quick this only takes about 30 seconds I believe it'll move in so it's moving into the top of the mag will you'll hear it touch off there's the touch it knows where it is in that direction now it's a moving toward the side of the magwell this direction it will touch now it knows where that is now it's moving towards the top of the magwell it'll touch one sec hey we go committing a little bit of a deeper cut not a big deal it now knows where it's located in 3d space basically all calculations will be made off of the touch points it just did next all we got to do pretty much get the next button I'm gonna put you guys on a time-lapse this process right here will take about I think about two hours so I'm gonna go I get some studying to do for an exam about to take I'm gonna do that you guys can watch the time-lapse hopefully it works if it doesn't work then I'm just gonna jump cut so let's see if the time-lapse actually works correctly all right let's do it it's loud - get ready go ahead and go stoner start your cut [Music] make sure it touches off correctly then I'll time-lapse you guys [Music] here it is all right time lapse time [Music] right there we go time to make some changes his chip guard faces screws [Music] it's actually a decent time to vacuum this out so let me do that all right got that vacuumed out so most the chips are gone so let's just keep them with the instructions loosen screws [Music] [Applause] remove lower and vacuum we've already vacuum so pretty good there a little more back to me real quick alright as you guys can see we move this out of the way the fire control pocket we're already done it also milled out the trigger hole in the bottom so you do want to vacuum this out pretty well you want this to be nice and clean you don't want any chips in the way when you go to do the next process let's move on so you're going to move our T slots around a little bit this one oops down to here this one will come out and then just do in and then this one will go out there [Music] so now this time we actually installed the nuts on the backside of these so we still use the same je except we're gonna stand it up tall this way so we can drill the holes and the fire control group we're gonna move this out for now do the next tool change and then put it back in machine move all right so it's going to go this direction I had it backwards so it actually goes like this but it looks wrong we can't wait to go put it in like man that doesn't seem right so the hardest thing is getting these screws in correctly especially the bad one and make sure when you do this you can see it was a little bit gonna push it all the way forward so it's touching the so it's still it still is remembering where it is in 3d space push it all the way forward so it touches the plastic part that's when you know it's in correctly I always stand on the back first since it's kind of the most secure it's not very flat tighten those down and then I will snug this up so it doesn't move at all not going anywhere make sure we're touching correctly touched off [Music] took our wiring so we don't break it [Music] [Applause] [Music] we're going to install our chip guard this is again it's pretty simple it walks you through every process and we're gonna start cutting and this one doesn't take that one so this one I'm gonna leave running and I'll just fast forward [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] alright that's done last step is we're going to drill the holes for pins so you can put your fire control forbidden so this should bring it outside to do a tool change on it and we take our key entry so we're going to change see small wrench goes on the back I think there's always the hardest tool change if I remember correctly you reach back injury and blood [Music] we so go free with steps 17 take it out move collet and switch over to the other one I showed you the smaller collet for the drill bit go ahead and put this on one thing to note here when you go to put the drill bits in the drill bits can I've had the decanter this morning that other people afford it where the drill bit can't a little bit I mean if that happens it will drill off-center so be aware of that kind of watch it as a spindle speeds up heats up make sure your drill bits in place correctly [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] it's like I said this can clamp down on this drill bit little wonky so what it goes to spin up you can look down on it like this make sure it's rotating concentric Li and it looks it looks like it is just fine it take it down when your French is in small chip guard and it should start it check for conscious concentricity and that drill bits spot on this is about the 5/32 that came with it can't seem to find it right now because this is the end mill that came with it but this thing is tiniest a bit over spec as long as it doesn't run into it it's gonna work fine all right [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] that's pretty much it go ahead and vacuum it out and remove your receiver check everything it looks like it's all pretty much done [Music] and there we go funding you able to do once you get it out is you keeper these edges just so little they tend to be a little bit sharp still [Music] everything looks good though there it is there is a fully machined ready to use ar-15 lower pocket looks good fire control looks good pretty much ready to be assembled into your favorite gun of choice favorite caliper favorite whatever you want so that's what we got you guys liked this content let me know give me a thumbs up daring YouTube by making things like this so I hope you enjoy it go ahead and subscribe if you feel up to it this isn't the one that we're gonna end up using for the m16 so I had freely previously build this one out this one's a little more closer to what an m16 would look like so we're gonna end up using this one plus coming up soon I'm gonna show you how to engrave something pretty cool on the fire control and up front but we'll get into that later but that's pretty much it guys I will catch you on the next one

Channel: Baby Face P

Views: 181,434

Rating: 4.8588486 out of 5

Keywords: ghost gunner, cnc, lower receiver, 80%

Id: aMg2kCrOicc

Length: 24min 44sec (1484 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 09 2020