MASTER the Camera Raw Filter In Photoshop 2022

what is up guys photo fever here and today i'm going to be showing you how you can understand learn and master the camera raw filter in photoshop one of photoshop's most powerful tools and i'm going to start right now [Music] so if you're new to my channel or you've just never watched one of my masterclass tutorials before these are very in-depth and they go into the very fine details of a particular tool or part of photography now today we are talking about the camera raw filter one of my favorite tools in photoshop but also one of the most powerful tools as well it has a whole host of different features and effects all in the camera raw filter now there is a lot to talk about so i'm going to be breaking this particular video down into different sections and i've got my time stamps here so you can skip to the part that will help you out most i'm also going to be using a variety of different photos as well and if you'd like to follow along and download the photos yourself i'll make sure to leave in the link in the description so you guys can follow along so without the way guys let's get on with this masterclass tutorial so firstly what is the camera raw filter well the camera raw filter is basically a program that allows photoshop to understand raw information now as a raw photo there is a lot of information that needs to be coded into a particular program now lightroom can do this straight away but photoshop can't so photoshop needs another program to open up the raw photo before it goes ahead and open it up in photoshop and that is what the camera raw filter is now there are actually two ways of accessing this and it's all to do with the different formats of photos that you're using now if you use a photo raw file you go ahead and if you just double click it will automatically open up in the camera raw filter this is because photoshop can't open a raw photo but you can also open it up in a jpeg format now it's a little bit different of how you get there what you need to do is open up the photo then go ahead to your filters panel on the top and then cycle down to where you can see camera raw now both once you've opened them up they are identical so it doesn't matter if you're using jpeg or raw you can follow along to this tool really easily but now you've got the photo open let's talk about the basics panel found on the right hand side so once you've got the camera raw filter open you'll be displayed with this main page and this is how a camera raw filter works so on the right hand side here you've got basically got all of your sliders and effects on the bottom here you've got a range of an area where you can have your thumbnails so you can actually open up more than one photo in the camera or filter at one time and if you had more than one photo it would be displayed along this bottom section here and then lastly you've got these two squares here this basically is a way of displaying your before and after so if you've done a lot of effects and you want to see or you want to cycle between before after or you can actually cycle it to have them separated you can have them so before and after split down the middle or split across or you can have it split it's all depending on how your how you like working so that's something to bear in mind that these buttons once you start adding and changing the effects you can change how the photo is displayed in the camera raw filter so at the very top section here you have got again because you've shot in raw you've got all of the metadata which is the shutter speed iso aperture focal length and all those kind of things displayed in this section here just underneath the histogram now the histogram here is also split into sections as well so if you hover over each of the sections you can see each of those is displayed separately so you've got your blacks on the left hand side your shadows your exposure which is the middle or the midtones then you've got your highlights and you've got your whites so you can see this particular photo here was shot at 50 millimeters with an iso of 200 at an aperture of f 2.5 with an exposure of 3 320 now as you can see this all photo was also shot with auto white balance so this is the first section we're going to be coming across at first so white balance here you've got if you click this drop down menu you've got basically all of your custom white balance settings that you have found in photoshop so you've got auto you've got daylight cloudy shade tungsten and so on now this is the very first section of of the camera raw filter is your temperature and tint so you want to get the colors right first so if we got this eyedropper tool found on the right hand side this is your white balance tool now if you click on something what it will do is it will correct the white balance you need to make sure whatever you click on is of a neutral tone so something that's either black white or gray it doesn't have any color because that will then indirectly affect the white balance of the photo if you choose something that's green it's gonna think that that's white and it'll change all of the colors incorrectly so make sure that you've got the white or grey section of your photo selected before you go ahead and use the eyedropper tool so what i recommend doing is selecting the eyedropper tool now you can see the clouds here are pretty grey so i'm going to go ahead and select the grab that section there and as you can see it automatically changed this photos white balance automatically for you which is really good but if you do so if you so wish you can change the sliders here and you can also change the tint now you might think these are odd numbers to have nine thousand one hundred my one doesn't say that well if you're working in a jpeg format it won't what it'll do is it'll have zero and then it'll have minus one hundred and plus one hundred so minus one hundreds towards the blue and plus one hundred is towards the warm colors like orange and yellows now the reason it doesn't have that in the actual uh main raw photo is that's because all photos are shot with a number called kelvin and kelvin is all to do with the temperature of the light a smaller number kelvin would usually mean it's a very warm color a very high number kelvin let's say eight nine ten thousand are very cool colors like blue for instance the light that i'm using today is what you call daylight which is 5600 kelvin so that's the temperature of the sun so do bear that in mind that is one of the few changes that you'll find between jpeg and raw is because of raw photos use kelvin where jpeg numbers because they don't have that information available it just has a simple slider from plus to minus 100 so once we've got that now we've got our main sliders here so you've got your exposure you've got your contrast you've got your highlights shadows whites and blacks now if you download the current version of the camera raw filter which is 14. if you hover over any of the highlights what it'll do is it'll give you up this tool tips section now you can turn it off if you so wish but it is helpful if you're a beginner to understand what each of the sliders do so obviously the exposure is basic you know if you brighten it it brightens the photo if you darken it it darkens the photo contrast basically does the same thing but it increases the difference between the blacks and whites highlights just controls the exposure of the highlights shadows just control exposure of the shadows and white does the same thing and so does blacks so these are your main what you call exposure sliders and it's the first thing i do whenever i have a look at a photo to take this photo for example you would say it's actually correctly exposed but i would say the shadows are a little bit too dark so what we can do is we can go to our shadow section here and we can bring up the shadows and as you can see it's not affecting the rest of the photo it's just specifically affecting the shadows of the photo and what i can do is actually bring the highlights down slightly and bring up the shadows and then i'm going to bring up the exposure and bring up the contrast as you can see and already that has dramatically changed the photo again if we go down to our small boxes found in the bottom right hand corner i can show you the before and after and as you can see already this is dramatically changed and realistically we've only changed about six sliders so far so as you can see the camera raw filter can really drastically change your photos very quickly so now we've got that section let's move on to the next now this is your texture clarity and dehaze and they basically say what they are on the tin texture increases texture clarity is a way of increasing contrast between the edges of particular shapes so if we hover over again our tool tips here as you can see it says it changes the contrast around edges of objects so if we go ahead and for instance zoom in like so if we go ahead and increase the clarity as you can see it increases the definition of the photo now again don't go too extreme with these sliders i find a lot of beginner photographers whack up all the sliders muck up the saturation or reduce the saturation in extreme ways small changes are better than the larger changes overall the smaller the change but the more changes you make throughout the entire photo i think the better the outcome will be obviously that is not a solid rule uh it won't necessarily mean that every single photo minimal changes are always going to work sometimes you might need to whack up the dehaze if there's a lot of fog involved but most of the time be very slight with any of these sliders they are very dramatic and i find that a lot of beginner photographers make that one mistake so do bear that in mind so as you can see we can increase our texture slightly but i'm not going to increase it too much already there is a lot of texture as you can see by the tarmac you've got the actual car it's got a lot of texture to it and also the clouds as well we're going to increase the clarity slightly and i would also recommend increasing dehaze now dehaze again says what it does on the tin it just removes haze from the photo you can actually increase haze if you want to by going to the negative numbers again all of these sliders have a positive but they also have a negative as well so if you want to remove texture go to the texture slider and reduce it into the minus numbers so that shows you it's really handy and depending on what effect you want all depending on where you end up having the sliders in your camera raw filter then lastly here we've got your vibrance and saturation now vibrance is a little bit different to saturation vibrance is to do with the intensity of the color the purity of it where saturation is all to do with the power of that color and the amount of color found in the photo i find changing vibrance is sometimes better than changing the saturation but write down in the comments what you prefer is it vibrance or is it saturation they are obviously very similar but there are slight differences i like vibrance but some people prefer saturation so that is our main basics slider here and this is where you'll find you'll probably change the white balance your exposure but also the colors as well the rest of the camera raw filter is all to do with either color grading or any details like for instance sharpening or reducing iso grain so now what we're going to do is we're going to go down all of the panels and explain each one independently so now let's move on to the curved slider now the tone curves is a really powerful tool and it's very similar to the curves adjustment layer in photoshop but there are a few differences firstly i find it's actually a little bit easier to use and i also think it's a little bit more customizable now what do i mean by that well i find that the way it displays the colors in the user interface is a little bit easier to understand now let's go ahead and open it up so we've got all of our kind of panels here we've already gone over the basics so let's go drop down to the curves now the curves again is split into four different sections you've got your main exposure you've got your reds to cyans then you've got your greens to magentas and your blues to yellows but as you can see the user interface is different to the curves adjustment layer because it displays firstly the histogram behind it but also a gradient of color going from blue to yellow so you know how the colors are going to be indirectly affected by moving this either up or down so let's go back to the main section here this is your exposure now obviously it's split up into sections here so you can see this box section here is for your shadows then you've got your kind of mid-tones found in the middle then you've got your highlights and then the very far edge you've got your whites on one side and you've got your blacks and if you hover over it if you have a look as well you can see that the input and output value change depending on where i'm hovering over now in this particular case i don't necessarily want to change too much but i might want to brighten up the shadows slightly now we can either do that in the basic slider or we can do it in the tone curves adjustment layer so i'm going to go ahead and move the actual tone up here and as you can see you can see why it's called tone curve because it creates this curve here and i'm going to bring down the rest or the other brightness of the photo like so so i'm going to go for something like so so i'm going to bring up a bit more of a matte effect in the shadows and maybe a little bit more contrast in the brightness areas as you can see here so creating this kind of s-style curve like so now you can do this with all of the colors so for instance if i want to make this color more blue i can bring that bring the area to more blue or i can do exactly the same with yellow but again i would find minor adjustments work really nicely now a quick tool if you ever make a mistake let's say i've dragged it over here but you want to find the center again but you're struggling to get the balance right in the middle you can see it's got a little circle if you just double click on that circle what it'll do is it will just reset the photo back to default and that's true for all of the sliders we're going to be talking about today if i go back to the basic sliders here and i double click on the highlights it will automatically take it back into the center or the default number that you originally started with so work with temperature tint sliders hue and saturation kind of anything of your choice so that is a handy tool in the camera raw filter so once we've had done that you can actually change all of your tints here now i find the white balance is correct in this particular example so i'm not necessarily going to change it but if you're finding it's a bit too yellow or if it's a bit too green then that's something you can think about you can use the tone curve adjustment layer to do this now if you want to go really in depth on how to use the tone curve i'm actually going to leave a link in the description to a video i've previously made specifically just on the tone curves so now let's move down to this section here and this is your details panel now the details panel has a few sliders predominantly to do with reducing iso noise but also increasing and decreasing the sharpness of the photo so what we can do is if you just click on to the default section here or the details panel it brings up three sliders but there are also sub sliders to these as well if you ever see one of these arrows next to a slider if you go ahead and click on that it will bring down a bunch of other sub sliders that are referred to the main slider so for instance sharpening for existence if you bring down the sharpening one you've got the radius of the sharpening you've got the details of the sharpening and you've also got masking so the radius is how large of an area is going to be sharpened if you for instance you've got a very matte kind of circle with lots of detail around it it won't increase the sharpness of the matte section because there isn't a lot of texture to it but it will crease around the exterior if we go to the details this is how fine of sharpening is implying this is on a pixel to pixel level and then lastly you've got the last one here which is masking now masking reduces areas that photoshop feels doesn't need to be sharpened so for instance in this particular case the sky wouldn't necessarily need to be sharpened because there isn't a lot of texture to it but the tarmac and the car in the foreground will need sharpening so if you increase the masking it will remove a lot of the sky when it comes to the sharpening and that's true for a lot of photos but photoshop does this automatically there's no way of controlling this specific sharpening when it comes to masking if you want to sharpen your custom then i would recommend watching this video i have here on how to sharpen using a high pass filter in photoshop and then lastly you've got noise reduction now noise reduction is split into two sections you've got traditional noise reduction and then you've got color noise reduction for instance if you're working on a black and white photo i would recommend noise reduction because all of the color is completely moot that is just everything is monochromatic and it will try and remove the actual iso grain retrospectively depending on the color then the last one is color noise reduction so this is iso noise now iso noise is usually red green and blue blotches and actually photoshop does a better job i find doing it that way then the other way so if you are on wanting to remove any iso noise now in this particular case because this particular photo was only shot at iso 200 there isn't a lot of iso noise but if you want to know what it's like to how or how to remove iso again i've got another video here that will help you do that as well so now what we'll do is we'll move on to color mixer now this is one of my favorite tools in the actual camera raw filter this is because of how powerful it is and how customizable it is when it comes to color grading now again i've done a video on this and you can find it here but today we're just going to focus on these small tweaks that you can do using hue saturation and luminance so this particular slider sliders are broken firstly into the hue you've got your saturation and you've got your luminance now hue is again the type of color so color is broken up into three difference you've got the type of color the intensity of the color and the brightness of that color and these sliders affect those three fundamental color points so firstly you've got hue so you've got obviously reds orange yellows greens aquas blues purple magentas so for instance let's take this yellow for example so let's move in and let's have a look at the yellow of this background we can actually affect the yellow by going to this yellow here and sliding it over to the left or sliding it over to the right as you can see that actually changes the color of that particular color but not affect any of the others and again if we want to double click to reset now again i would be very fine with changing the colors of these uh changing the the sliders to make ever so slight changes so for instance we've got these green in the background here i want to affect the greens so i'm going to make them a little bit more green a little bit more punchy i think so we can actually slide that over to the yellows and we could do the same over here and as you can see we've actually changed the color of those greens so if i show you the before and i'll show you the after although it's a minor change you can actually see that the greens have become a little bit more green sometimes i find that a lot of trees can struggle getting the right color so i find you can either do that or if you want to create more of a full color you can go ahead and slide it the other way just like so and again you can do this with every single color in this particular photo so i'm going to go ahead and reduce the blues i think or make the blues a little bit more cyan do the same with the purples i think the oranges i'm going to go for a little bit more extreme to make more of a sunset look and with the reds i'm going to go make them a little bit more orange lovely okay so that's just us changing the hue we can now go to our saturation slider here and we can increase for instance the saturation of that yellow or decrease it so if we go to the yellows here we can make the yellows a little bit more powerful or we can reduce the yellows so as you can see we've taken all of the power out of those yellows and again it's not affecting any other color in the photo and then lastly you've got luminance now you can go really in depth and spend hours and hours changing the hsl adjustment layer so this video isn't two hours long and i'm trying to keep it as fairly short and concise as possible i'm just going to go over the key points so that is the hsl or color mixer layer again if you want to watch this video here i'll make sure to leave it in the link in description because it is really helpful when understanding the hsl or as it's now named the color mixer adjustment layer so what we can do now is click off that and we can go to our next one which is color grading now this is one of the newer adjustment layers found in the camera raw filter now color grading is what it says on the tin you're creating a color grading theme to a photo now photoshop have made it a little bit easier previously you had to use a thing called split toning which is a little bit difficult and if you watch my previous masterclass tutorial you'll see how to use that in the most effective way but they've actually removed that and changed it with color grading which is so much better than the previous split toning effect so what it's done is it split three of these for your mid tones found in the top then you've got your shadows and highlights and what it will do is it will add a color cast to a specific exposure area of the photo so for instance let's say you wanted to add a greeny theme to the photo but you only want it to affect the shadows then you would use the color grading tool and add the greens to the shadows so for instance if we want to do greens i wouldn't recommend it for this photo but let's say you wanted to do that we can go ahead and do that to the shadows as you can see the highlights are still unaffected but the shadows have had a very deep green to them again double click in the center of that so you can reduce it back to its default now i like making subtle changes so again i would go to the mid tones i think i would add an ever so slight red to this photo because i think the sunset's really making me want to add some red to it so i'm going to do that like so and then highlight i'm probably going to do the same thing again now to combat that i'm going to use what's opposite on the color wheel i'm going to add in for the shadows i'm going to add in cyan now i'd recommend having a watching on one of my color theory videos to understand how color works and how adding a color can indirectly affect changing another color so i'm going to do it like so and as you can see i think this actually looks quite nice now it's added a nice cyan feel to the shadows but it's added a warmer tone to the highlights now you can actually go in and if you want to load them up bigger so you've got a little bit more control a little bit more precise with your mouse or trackpad you can actually instead of choosing on global adjustments you can either just affect the shadows just affect the mid tones or just affect the highlights and you can do that by just clicking on these circles on the top here then you've also got a global so this will affect the entire photo so it will color cast the entire photo doesn't matter on exposure i wouldn't recommend using this one unless you're after that specific look i recommend changing shadows mid tones and highlights independently from each other i think you'll end up with a better result and that to be honest is the basics of the color grading adjustment layer tool here you can also go down again into your hue saturation and luminance but this is basically what this panel here is for instance if you go into the mid-tones as you can see because we've already dragged it here you can see the points have already been added but if you prefer to using sliders instead of this circle you can also do that as well and then below that you've got your blending so where that highlights and shadows are within the photo then you've also got the balance as well which is very similar to blending now that is the basics of the color grading adjustment layer i don't use it too much but a lot of photographers do and again you might see a lot of these tools found in lightroom as well so it really depends on how you like working so that's basically the color grading section let's move on to optics and what do optics do in the camera filter now the optics is all to do with presets in photoshop and it's not something you can necessarily control although if you want to you can go into it manually basically all it does is it fixes what the camera would do in camera so cameras can sometimes suffer from vignetting so inside the camera settings you might find a thing called peripheral illumination this is basically what this is in the camera raw filter you can indirectly turn it off or on and it's something that is saved in the metadata of your photo so for instance take this photo for example if we wanted to use profile corrections if we go ahead and tick that on you'll notice the barrel distortion will fix but also the peripheral illumination or the vignetting has also been fixed as well this is what happens in the camera but you can actually turn it off or on inside the camera or filter you can only do this with raw photos by the way though you can't do this when you're using jpeg photos now it can do the same with chromatic aberration as well but again because this was shot on quite a nice photo or quite a nice lens there isn't a lot of chromatic aberration to be seen if you had a lens like for instance the ef 50mm f 1.8 that suffers from quite bad chromatic aberration so that's what would be very helpful in this particular case but again these are all the settings that you can find inside the camera and if you'd like to go into more detail you can go and click and click the little arrow and as you can see it brings down the make of the lens the actual model the specific lens that you used and also the profile correction which is found inside the camera then you've also got distortion and vignetting here although you can also find that in effects as well and again these are your profiles but if you want to you can manually change them again going into the vignette by finding the midpoint if you wanted to specifically remove it let's say you have a very modern lens and it isn't actually appearing on these profile corrections here you can actually fix it manually if you want to but overall that's all that the optics panel does it predominantly fixes things that the camera can fix in camera but you can either turn it off or on in the camera raw filter so it's quite a basic panel next let's talk about geometry and what that does to your photos now the geometry panel is not something i use a lot and it's because most of my photos are usually correct when i take them if i find the photo's got let's say a wrong horizon or it looks a little bit skew to be honest i just retake it again but sometimes you can't do that so what you can do is go into the geometry panel and what it will do is it will basically affect the proportion and scaling of the photo and how it looks so let's say you took a photo of a square but the square is off at an ever so slight angle what you can do is you can use the vertical and horizon lines to fix lines to look straight sometimes cropping can't do this so this is where the gm the actual geometry panel works so for instance if i wanted to fix the vertical lines so for instance i can do it like so again it doesn't work with this photo but you can see how it works and then you can do it horizontally as well so let's say you're doing it like so you can also rotate the photo slightly as well if you're finding the horizon isn't straight or if you're finding the aspect ratio isn't straight as well you can kind of squish the photo if you wanted to again this is just designed to fix the photo you don't necessarily use these tools if the photo is correct in the first place you only try and fix it if your lines aren't straight or if your horizon is a little bit crooked you can go into the geometry panel and actually fix these specific things but in this particular case i don't need to do any of this so i'm going to do is just double click on all of these panels just to reset them back to default but overall that's be honest all that you've got available in here you can obviously bring different sliders up you can break this photo down into different sections by using the upright panels here but to be honest i rarely use it because again i always try and get it right in camera and it's something i suggest you guys try and do as well the better you are a photographer the less work you have to do in the camera raw filter and in photoshop which is something i always recommend it's a really good way of speeding up your workflow so after we've done that we've got we've got basically two sliders left we've got the effects and calibration now the effects is basically very easy you've got two main sliders so if you go ahead and open it up you've got your grain and you've got your vignette and again you've got these drop down menus here as well so as you can see if you want to add in grain some people if you're shooting black and white like to add in some grain photos i recommend doing it specifically on black and white photos because sometimes it adds more of a vintage feel to it so you can increase the grain like so and then when you activate that you can also change the size of the grain the roughness of the grain and then you've also got vignetting as well now i do like adding vignetting to my photos i must say it's one of my favorite things to do i like photos when the subject in the middle like in this particular photo here it sometimes you can add emphasis by darkening the surrounding area to make the important part in the middle stand out a little bit more and you'll notice if you go to my instagram you'll notice a lot of the photos have vignettes applied and this is probably one of the easier ways of adding a vignette into a photo and again you've got full control over all your vignettes so you've got your mid point your roundness the feather and you've also how it independently selects the highlights but again if you add a vignette to your photo you may need to change the exposure afterwards so i find that again after you've finished that you can go to your basics panel and i would probably increase the photo's brightness ever so slightly again because you are adding in a vignette vignetting especially negative vignetting which is dark vignetting can sometimes darken the overall photo so just bear in mind that it will change your exposure if you add a vignette in post and then lastly you've got your calibration now again it's not something i use too much although i have been using it a little bit more for color grading calibration is a way of basically fixing chromatic aberration in your photos if you're finding there's a lot of green in your photos just due to the how the optics work inside the lens then you can mitigate that by reducing the saturation of your green primary or you can also do it for your blue primary and red primary as well but i find now actually i'm using it more for color grading so for instance in this particular case i might want to add in a little bit more blue so for instance i can slide that over to the right hand side and as you can see it has decreased the amount of blue if i go and slide it over to the right you can see it has actually changed the color of the photos to make it a little bit more i would say tealy so as you can see you can actually use it for color grading it's not what it's been specifically designed for but a lot of photographers i notice a lot of other youtubers actually use the calibration panel to color grade your photos so that is an option that you've got you don't necessarily have to use it and it's not something i use too much but i must say i've been learning to use it over the few months of noticing that you can do it for color grading and i've been pretty happy with some results okay so once you've had a look at the main basic exposure and color grading panels you can also do a whole host of other things in the camera raw filter so after you've done all of your effects here you've also got these other buttons here and these are sub-menus so you've got cropping you've also got your masking and healing then you've got your masking you've also got red eye removal you've also got snapshots and presets so obviously we've talked about the main one here if we drop down to the second one this is your cropping now cropping is what it says on the tin it crops your photo but i find actually cropping in the camera raw filter it can sometimes help because i find the user interface is a little bit easier to use so on the right hand side here you've got your aspect ratio so if you click you've got a whole bunch of aspect ratios here you can choose all the way from custom to a bunch of presets that are available then you've also got your angle now you've got this little tool found on the right hand side here this is basically your spirit level so if you drag that over for instance if a photo was a landscape and you had a horizon you could get the horizon line right by using that spirit level then you've also got your flip and rotation so i can rotate the photo 90 degrees if i wanted to or i could flip it completely you can do this all with inside the cropping tool found on the right hand side now i must say i don't use it too much but i have been using a little bit more because predominantly i shoot raw and again it really does help using these tools before you open it up in photoshop so the photo is basically 99 right before you go ahead and add any other effects that are found specifically within the photoshop tool again a lot of the camera raw filter replicates what is found in lightroom but with the power of photoshop behind it so it can be helpful to get the photo right straight out of the camera or filter before you go ahead and open it up in photoshop so the next tool we've got here is basically your healing tool and i don't use this at all and i predominantly the reason for it is i don't find it works very well it's quite slow and it's nowhere near as quick as what photoshop can do with the brush healing tool and if you want to know how to use that tool i make sure to leave the link in the description now what we can do is if we go ahead and zoom in i can just quickly show you how this tool works so we can do is use if you hold down spacebar you can navigate around your photo like so and again if you drag left or right you can make the photo larger or smaller but what i'll do is i'll quickly show you how you can use the healing tool so we've got a small brush a small kind of mark on this girl's head so we can do is select that area like so and what actually this will do is it will sample an area the red area is what we're changing and the green area is what we're changing it to so it's a mixture as you can see between the clone tool and the brush healing tool in photoshop so we'll do is it will find an area and it will use an area to basically clone in that area and to wait to finish is all you just need to do is basically click off to see the final results so i can actually show you the before and the after it's a minor change but if you did that enough overall you would remove all of the healings that you all of the areas that are of concern the only problem is it's very slow to do this it is a very very slow process so i wouldn't necessarily recommend using this in the camera oil filter i would probably use maybe a frequency separation effect in the photoshop instead of using this in the camera but it's completely up to you and what you guys like working with then after you've got that you've got this section now this is basically brand new to uh 14 when it comes to the camera raw it's all to do with subject selection so here you can select the sky or you can select the subject if you go ahead and select subject what it'll do is it will automatically select the subject for me and as you can see it has done a really really good job and again it brings up all of our exposures and all of our changing tools like for instance saturation found on the right hand side very similar to the effects we've previously gone over but again i don't necessarily find myself ever using this much reason is i like using photoshop i find using subject selection in photoshop sometimes a little bit more accurate and i find sometimes the camera raw filter isn't necessarily 100 and again it's a slightly different tool but again it's all up to you and what you guys working with today i'm just showing you what tools are found in the camera or filter so after you've done that you can see we can actually deselect the mask by pressing escape and then you can see you can go back to all of your changes here again you've got your mask saved in your mask section here and again you can add a new one by pressing the little plus symbol you can find on the top here so again it is a fairly interesting tool and it works a lot better than it previously did but it's not something i specifically use and it's not in my workflow so next we'll move on to the red eye removal tool so the red eye removal tool is what it says on the tin it removes red eye problems now they can occur either in pets or in people where the flash is very close to the lens that's why you never might hurt her might ever hear the term off-camera flash and that's all to do with moving the flash away from the center of the lens and that will prevent the light going into the pupil bouncing off the retina and coming back with the red or blood red which is sometimes found now if you want to ever do that so for instance if we can do is zoom into the photo and then we can go over to the eyes what you do is you just select the eye and what it will do is it will automatically remove the red eye and you can actually select it by red eye type you can select pet eyes which are sometimes other colors like in for instance in sometimes dogs you'll find it's green sometimes you'll find in cats specifically they might be white or orange you can actually select the type that you can remove it because sometimes it can look very off-putting so that is how you can remove red eye again it's not something i ever usually get affected with because some most of most of the time i'm using off-camera flashes so it's not a problem i ever come across but if you did use an on camera flash and you find that there is red eye then this is a tool that might be really really handy so next we'll move on to snapshots so again snapshots is not something i often use and basically it's just a way of creating a photo of your progress so let's say we've done lots and lots of changes to this photo and you want to basically take a screenshot of this particular overall photo well then you can go ahead and go to your snapshot click on that button here and as you can see it will create a snapshot if you go ahead and click ok you've got that snapshot available and it's also got the time and date so if you ever want to go back and work out what you did it creates a snapshot of the entire photo including all of the exposure sliders so you can see exactly what you did at the exact time i personally prefer using presets over this but if you do like using snapshots this might be handy for you again it's like creating a history of what you've previously done so you can either replicate it afterwards or work out what you've done wrong to fix it afterwards it's a way of basically just creating an overall basically writing down all the things that you've done and saving it within a photo again it's not something i use but it is a tool available for you and lastly let's talk about presets one of my favorite parts of the camera raw filter so presets are what they say on the tin they are a preset basically what it is is a way of automatically saving a bunch of settings that you've made in the camera raw filter and replicating them on a new photo now i've been using presets for years and it's something you can sell and you can also buy from for instance froknowsphoto always talks about his lightroom presets he's got basically a bunch of them and that's what these presets are they're a bunch of settings found either in lightroom or the camera or filter that you can replicate a look onto a variety of different photos and it can really speed up your editing workflow so if we go ahead on to favorites you've basically got some photo of ones that i've created but then you've also got ones that photoshop give you for free so you've got some auto ones you've got some black and white ones if i want to change this into black and white as you can see the black and white isn't just normal black and white there are a whole bunch of different black and whites available and is if you select one for instance and go back into the basics panel you can see what has been applied and you can see how the changes and effects have been applied and then you can go ahead and if you want to change it back you go ahead and select it like so now i've got a bunch of of my presets that i use all the time and they will eventually i will put them up on sale i just need to work out why which one i want to sell and which ones i don't so you can go into james's presets here and the one that i would use here would probably be called tabitha studio and i'll go ahead and select that like so and as you can see it applies a nice pink hue to it and this one there is a lot of changes applied so as you can see i've changed all of these sliders here and then i've also added in color grading i've added in a slight red tone to the shadows and you can actually see the before and after so if i do the before and if i do the after you can see i've changed it ever so slightly again if you want to do that it'll be these two bottom ones here but again some of the presets work and some of them don't it's just a quick way of speeding up your editing workflow by basically saving them now how to create presets is slightly different what you'll need to do is go to any part of this gray section here i'll probably say the bottom right hand corner works best right click and then you can go ahead and create preset and what it will do is you can select all of the panels that you've used so for instance other ones we've talked about previously then you can name it and you can also create a group as well so if you go i'm just going to go ahead and press cancel but then it will appear into any of the groups that you've got available and again you can over save them as well so take this photo for example let's say i always found my photos were coming out too dark so let's say i brighten that if all go back to my presets you can right click and you can actually save over your presets so if i go to my studio here i could right click and then go to update with current settings so you can constantly adapt and update your photos all depending on what preset you're working with now i would say that is pretty much all you need to know about the camera raw filter obviously as you learn and grow you might find that some effects work better than others but it's all depending on your editing workflow so as you can see i've made a bunch of presets there and they're we're all available for me to use at any time and again you can always buy them from certain people depending on what look that you're after there are hundreds if not millions of presets available online and all you need to do to import them is simply watch this video i've got here because it is a little bit of a longer video to how to import and actually use other people's presets but that is how you can use the presets panel in the camera raw filter brilliant and there we go guys so there is my master class tutorial on how to use and understand the camera raw filter now i am only human so if i have missed anything make sure to write it down in the link in the description so no one else misses out on any really important information i felt like i did go over everything but you never know i might have missed a key thing that you particularly use as a photographer so if they have any other updates or anything like that make sure to write it in the link in description to help everybody else out but i hope this video was helpful and if you want to watch any of my other masterclass tutorials i've got my playlist just up here again guys if you want to like comment and subscribe it really does help my channel out also guys if you want to hit the bell notification so you guys don't miss any of my latest content but until next time guys keep creating [Music]

Channel: Photo Feaver

Views: 2,165

Keywords: MASTER the Camera Raw Filter In Photoshop 2022, MASTER the Camera Raw Filter, Camera Raw Filter, The power of the Camera Raw Filter, How to use the camera Raw Filter, Colour Grading Photoshop, Photoshop 2022, Master Class Tutorial, in-depth Photoshop, Photoshop 2021, Photoshop CC, Photoshop, Photoshop Tutorials

Id: jNTWvcGZsyw

Length: 43min 12sec (2592 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 19 2021