Making the KS-23 Part 1

howdy folks it's me from the future no longer quite as scared of being in front of the camera got a few things to go over before the video yeah yeah i know i'll try and be brief here so first things first this is not a shooting video the final product is still not quite ready yet but i've been working on this for so long several years that i've decided to split this video into two parts there will be shooting yes but not much of it and definitely not what you might be thinking all you're going to find in this video is suffering struggling and failure lots of it so part one is going to be the gritty fumbling in the dark section part two will be the triumph so fair warning if you were expecting the theatrical release the saint chief is all that good out of the way cool two more things so firstly i need need to give a shout out to rcc brass no one else would even begin to humor me with making shells for this guy apart from one absolute failure of a company who will not be named as i'm not the kind of person to throw shade around like that but you know who you are so rcc they really stepped up when i ran it on this past shot show just really really great guys that basically saved this whole project they make all kinds of brass from common calibers to oddball stuff like this thing down to even really obscure dead rimfire mill syrup calibers yes rimfire they do amazing work and best of all for completely reasonable prices like i'm not kidding it's literally one-fifth yes one-five of what i was paying to the other company who i had initially tried so as a result of that i feel super indebted to them and if you have any brass related needs any whatsoever i cannot recommend these guys enough i'm not usually a plug kind of guy but i really have to show them some love here going on one more note one of these recently went on gunbroker here so whoever ended up sneaking away with that one congratulations on joining the cool guy club i have a wealth of information to share after working on this for several years now but that's mostly going to be condensed in part two as mentioned this one is doing things the hard way so let's jump back about three years yeah first leg of the journey was making ks23 furniture from scratch completely from scratch i didn't detail much of it until i was a decent third of the way through it but the basic process was just drafting up some copies 3d printing them and then casting them out of resin at this current point here the design is solid and the printed pieces look and fit great after admittedly a few revisions now i decided to go with the design that has a more pronounced lip there because i think it looks better but there are several variants seen here so take it away past me this is admittedly a little embarrassing to watch in retrospect so it's occurred to me that maybe some of you might actually want to see this part here um i'm already about halfway through fabricating before and kind of slipped my mind i got carried away with it but this is 3d printed in two sections you've got a little bit of a seam right here that's been smoothed out nicely i've already stuck it in an acetone vapor bath to smooth everything out and for a 3d print it's looking pretty good so for our silicone i'm going to be using this smooth-on whatever the hell it is got two packs of that hopefully that's enough not really sure we're gonna find out the hard way i suppose 1 000 milliliters so two liters is almost enough not quite just a little over two and a half that's how much we're going to need so that's about two 2.7 liters i feel as if this wasn't well thought out so unfortunately i just ran the calculations and each set of these is approximately 32 fluid ounces meaning i'm gonna need to pick up another one and additionally this container here that i was planning on using only goes up to two liters itself so gonna need something a little bit bigger to get this all in one go so for now i'm at a bit of a stand still i'll see you guys in a bit so as it turns out the lumo 30 actually has a limited shelf life and additionally keeping it stored in an unheated garage over the winter was not a very good idea so i'm out quite a bit of money for that but it's all right we're back at it again let's give it a shot all right cheers stir this one in big old van of goop the sumo 30 is so named because it has a working time of 30 minutes so we're nowhere near that but we want to be a little hasty with it but not too hasty it should be right around it got a bit left in here hopefully that's enough i'll be very very upset if it isn't but it's just barely going to make it looks like like i'll sit here and hold it down myself for half an hour if i have to but hopefully i won't have to that's bringing a spatula would have been a decent idea but we're a little late in the game for that see i thought it was going to be dramatically overshooting the amount needed but it turns out i was much much closer than i originally thought scooping the cell out by hand not pretty but it seems to be working and there we go it has completely submerged at this point so the buoyancy was something that i completely and utterly failed to take into consideration so that's my fault i should have thought of that ahead of time but i didn't and here we are so hopefully this um isn't a complete waste be over two at that point but be right back and we'll see how this looks i'm gonna sit here and hold it for a while boy oh boy mistakes been made let me just pick this whole thing up let's not do that that seems like a bad idea we don't do bad ideas here am i kidding yes we do that's pretty much all we do so how you guys doing doing all right you you keep your goddamn hand that you're not ruining this for me not because you got bored after five minutes which it hasn't even been so you just hang out just don't move i've already already already didn't move much but it moved a little bit so we're gonna keep doing this keep on keeping all this is not how i thought i'd be spending my monday afternoon i'll tell you that all right so that's half an hour of just holding this thing down all right so after many many trials and tribulations we finally have our complete mold here as you can see it's retaining most of the detail um there is a little bit of porosity in there a few bubbles and whatnot so there will be some imperfections in the final cast but that should just be all stuff we can stand out i only have one concern and that is this wiggly central pillar here um if that's not lined up properly during the pour for the casting well that could cause complications as bad as uh flat out not working uh two just being slightly misaligned so we'll have to keep an eye out for that um otherwise fairly pleased with how this turned out i had to unfortunately destroy the original piece to get it out it was really really stuck on this this the magazine tube essentially what that is it was not easy to get out as you can see there are many many many different ridges and bumps and contours and whatnot and due to this shelf here has to be pulled out this way so had to keep both ends of it open so that i could actually do that and had to of course chop it down one side completely so hopefully that's not too much of an of an issue having way too much fun with this little little dongle in here anyway um yeah hopefully it's not too much of an issue honestly if if this doesn't work as i said previously i am going to do one of two things either one just print another one of those and just paint it and be content with it because i am very very tired of dealing with this or uh send it out to be professionally cast in a nice resin by other people who are not me who does not have to do this any further all right so real quick has an update where i'm at right now bondo all over this thing uh so here is a resin cast forend the 3d printed one unfortunately it was destroyed in the process of getting it out of the mold but whatever i can just print another one if need be but i don't imagine so this is the resin cast for end i failed at the last moment a hole opened up in the bottom of the mold itself so the very front of it is very very hollow the rest of it turned out all right so so long as i keep that hole plugged up i imagine it'll be just fine so just as a mock-up that is approximately how it's going to look and the color may change a little bit as well i'm trying to um wait on the pistol grip um to be finished so that i can uh cast both the forend and the pistol grip at the same time to trying to keep the color consistent because you have to add in a little bit of brown dye a little bit of black dye to get it just right i'm not super concerned about it but doing it at the same time should solve that issue so that's your forehand now how the um the pistol grip itself is set up i don't actually know all i have for reference is uh same stuff you guys have which is just pictures on the internet from a side profile view and that is it so what i've come up with is uh essentially what i'm going to do is i've designed and 3d printed uh this core grip core that interfaces on the the end of the receiver there obviously a grip screw right in there and then a hole right here there's uh i'm going to drill and tap out for the stock this is just a mock-up obviously there's a prototype version 1.0 right there but that'll drill a screw right into that that hole right there i'm having this machined out of just mild steel not taking any chances with aluminum or plastic or anything else because the recoil on this should be rather stout and as you can tell that this that the forces imparted here are not in line whatsoever so you've got you know your direct force coming back up here and then a stock crammed in way at the bottom so that's that's going to be a tremendous amount of force on this whole thing so having that machined out of steel it is currently off and away at the machine shop it should be i don't know maybe a couple weeks till i get it back depending on their workload and cost about like 300 bucks you know whatever so my interpretation of the pistol grip was a solid steel core i may skeletonize it a bit but honestly a little extra weight it's probably gonna help out more than anything else so that let me grab these scales here so we've got our solid steel ostensibly grip core and i've got essentially just a clamshell design that i've mocked up the 3d printed here which will screw in at two places here with access to the threaded hole at the end there um these have been he's been pretty tricky getting the dimensions uh just right with my 3d printer and whatnot as well cause i'm gonna cast these out of resin as well getting it just right to the point where there's as little little seam as possible i've i've tried a lot of things from good old little bondo to uh i think what i'm currently using is some steel stick the bondo didn't work for some reason i don't know if i just was too impatient with it or if it just doesn't want to stick to the material quite as well as it should but anyway that's approximately where it's at you'll notice it's not necessarily one to one what the original design was part of that is my fault but part of that is also by design i've got big old fat acromegaly american hands um so i need a little bit more a little bit more reach to get to the trigger i don't want to be too choked up on it you know so this uh length of pull so to speak is perfect for my big old solid fingers here so that is approximately where it's at so i still need to remount these holes a bit for i think it uses what uh like a quarter inch flat head screw or something like that but that's all nitty-gritty details not super worried about it just yet that is basically where we're sitting currently so starting to come together just a bit now i'm not going to trap the barrel just yet i could very very easily do that but as i mentioned uh prior i want to get some some data some you know ballistic information on the full length barrel once i've worked out some proper loads before making the cut because obviously i'm only going to get to do that once so that will be the very very very last step now the next step after getting all this together is as mentioned getting the loads worked up and that is going to be prohibitively expensive one thing at a time here gonna get the furniture all set up good to go and then we'll worry about the rest okay jumping ahead once again here this is where we're currently at now you might say oh wow this looks exactly the same as it was well it's a few things different one i did a bit more contouring of this forward section here as you can see it mates up with the bottom there's a little bit of a gap there but i think that's fine and it does overlap the receiver here just a little bit kind of giving it a clam shell look and also went ahead and got proper fasteners here um pan head just flathead slotted screws here got those all blued up they come zinc plated so i had to touch that up just a little bit but nevertheless uh all set and good to go now additionally i did get the grip core back from the machine shop and man does it look fantastic had to do just a little bit of fitting i knew i would the original 3d printed version was a little a little large but that's better that way it's better to have it large than undersized that way you can actually make adjustments so it'll fit i had to do a little bit of that but essentially this grip core here is identical to this 3d printed one it's got the contours there and what not a little recess right in the front with holes for the both the grip screw and the firing pin to slide back into and you have of course a channel on the back for the grip screw to come through and at the very bottom for the stock to thread into and what i think i'm going to do with the stock is i'm just going to have just a piece of steel tube or maybe a solid rod even i'm not sure just yet and thread this for i think i had it for a half here yeah 5 8 by 24 i'm gonna thread that up in and get it timed just right then i'm thinking uh drill another hole right in the bottom here for a set screw so that it stays in place doesn't uh shift around at all keep that butt plate nice and nice and vertical so anyway the point is here got our grip screws and these are still the 3d printed ones i haven't uh casted there goes a fastener i haven't um cast them just yet but they just fit right over top get out of here of that encrypt core there in the appropriate place and i did of course already drill and tap some holes in there for the holes and the grip scales here so that just interfaces right like that i've got it very nicely fit nice and nice and snug nice and together so here's a closer look at the grip core machine shop did a fantastic job with it i'm very happy with how it turned out i noticed a few scuff marks here and there from where i've had to get a profile just right but that's fine now the interesting part let's weigh this guy just under one and a half pounds that is that's a beefy boy and yeah this is a big old chunk of mild steel so it's to be expected the next step is to take these grip scales here and go ahead and mold and cast these in actual resin uh the same reason i'm using for the forehand here as you can see this one broke off because it was once again very thin at the top the mold had a hole in it so everything just kind of drained out leaving just a hollow cavity there and that due to the cold eventually broke off here but nevertheless gonna be the same material as this guy um now that i've got these exactly where i want them i think i've still got a little bit yeah just a little bit of work to do touching up one of the ribs right here that one came off one of the downsides of 3d printing it's a little a little tough for the finer pieces to work they don't really hold up very well especially when you need to drill a hole into it and make a recess for the the fastener there but nevertheless it'll be the same material as this and the mold for this one ready to go need to cast these real quick and we can do them all at once so that'll be next probably not going to do that on camera it's um the pot life on that stuff is very very short so i can try and do it as quickly as i can which means no camera so see you in a bit so real quick this is where we are currently at the furniture is all finished up and as far as i'm concerned 100 done the casting process was messy messy and sloppy but effective we do have three completed pieces here left half right half and the four end um it went well enough there were a few defects and are still a few defects you can probably spot a few of them here some of which i simply filled in with some excess resin i'm used to a little bit of crayon wax in some spots but ultimately it turned out pretty okay now there are a few teeny tiny teeny tiny little spaces where there's a little bit of bubbling you can probably see one or two in there yeah like right right there you can see a few bubbles got into the mold and since i wasn't using a pressure chamber or anything it's really hard to get all of the bubbles out it's barrel out of the way but other than that you know i'm fairly satisfied with how it turned out some grip it's not much of a gap between the two halves it seems very very nice and this took at least hours and hours to get where you see it now you probably wouldn't think that just looking at it but just a tremendous tremendous amount of filing sanding polishing it's just not a good time i mean look at my thumb here it's got a nice little blister there from all the all the filing work it took several days because i had to i had to let that recover for a little bit but where it's at right now i think i am completely satisfied so next step is going to be the stock which will interface directly into this hole here now you'll notice get a little light on it that it doesn't exactly line up perfectly with the uh scales there but that's okay we can open those up if we need to but it shouldn't be too awfully bad a little off centered not too much now it looks a lot smaller than it started out as doesn't so finally got in from good old mcmaster car this 9 16 diameter steel rod which i'm going to use as the basis of the stock i have already gone ahead and threaded one of the ends of it 9 16 by 24 which is a common three weight thread i had it on hand so i figured why not use it that's going to thread directly into the pistol grip now what i'm planning on and by the way this is a three foot rod so that in case i mess up i have two more tries but uh anyway that's going to fit essentially right into this hole just like that it's going to screw in now the actual butt plate of the stock it's not going to rotate it's going to be welded in place obviously so well how do you time that just right uh yeah basically two options you could uh time it to where thread this as far in as it'll go and then just weld it vertical and hope it stays or what i'm going to do is i'm essentially going to drill a teeny tiny little pilot hole right in the center and tap that in a much smaller finer thread and have a set screw plonk itself right in there to hold the stock in place so i'm essentially going to use that to time the stock into place just set screw it in and it shouldn't shouldn't go anywhere now i do have a 9 16 by 24 tap but i can't use it with this just yet i don't have the appropriately sized drill bit to actually ream that channel out to size so still waiting on that but that'll be the next step the stock it's so completely completely simple that it shouldn't be a problem so other than that i have put in a few orders for a couple things one slug mold left half right half and the the plug that goes in the center now i do actually have a couple of molds made already 3d printed out of abs plastic at 100 infill now they only last for one cast it is molten lead after all but they will hold up for that much they tend to melt and fall apart after that but as a perfect concept they absolutely do work and i cannot wait to get my hands on an actual aluminum copy of it it's going to cost a pretty penny but that's machining for you it has melted it significantly but the shape the form of it seems to be perfectly correct as a proof of concept fantastic yes you can 100 use abs plastic to cast lead now the other thing that i'm waiting on is some brass holes solid 100 brass i'm not screwing around with uh paper cardboard plastic holes anything like that not just solid brass they're going to be pricey but they're going to work and they're going to hopefully work for quite a while i'll have to anneal them every now and then but that's the plan now i want to get overall probably about maybe maybe a dozen of them or so you can hold about four four three inch shells in this uh this shotgun that's three in the tube and one in the chamber of course so you figure that's three full loads you know that'll be enough for a while and i don't really plan on shooting this all too often given how rare and exorbitantly expensive it's going to be but nevertheless they cost about 50 bucks a pop so that's looking at about 600 bucks of uh just raw brass there now i haven't really figured out what i'm going to do for uh the wads uh shot cups and and whatnot but i'm really excited to finally be getting started on the whole ammo side of this getting them properly loaded so it's it's coming along now as far as the barrel goes um i've had the stamp to cut this down for quite a while probably about a year's time now not going to for a while now obviously eventually i am going to take it down to about uh about right here give or take uh what's the length on that like 12 14 inches something like that i don't remember exactly but i'm not going to chop this down until i have developed a couple of loads for it and gotten all the data on those that that i need and then i'll chop it down and compare the two that's going to be the very very last step in this process and we are fast approaching 100 completion so stay tuned so i've ran into a little bit of a problem with the grip now as luck would have it i did actually manage to come across a very very very rare picture of a ks23 of specifically the latch that holds the stock in place now as i mentioned before my original plan was just to drill and tap a mounting hole in the back of the grip and then set screw it in from the bottom to make sure it didn't go anywhere but after seeing that picture of just now that's very obviously not how they did it now the unfortunate part of that is if you take a look at this here the geometry that i have designed it for there is far far too much of a gap here to make that sort of arrangement possible i i could if i really really stretched it but honestly i don't think it's a very good idea and i'm just going to end up sticking to the original plan which is going to be you know drilling to have a set screw so unfortunate um there is always the possibility further down that you know i have another one of these made up and correct that a little oversight but honestly i'm not that worried about how many times have you ever even seen the bottom one of those well once now so unfortunate but i'm gonna keep moving with how i had it originally set up a real quick update tried to drill and tap this 4916 by 24. did not go well catastrophic failures at pretty much every single stage and i thought this entire piece would just be completely done worthless but i did at least have the wherewithal to start at 9 16 in the potential case that you know something did go horribly wrong as it did we could bump that up to 5 8 so that is essentially exactly what we've done a buddy of mine who works at a machine shop really really came through in the clutch for me on this one and just saved the entire piece um i owe a tremendous amount of gratitude to him about 300 worth as a matter of fact because that's what this cost to make i thought i was going to make another one anyway i had this all nice and reamed out again and uh threaded four five eighths by 18 and much much more common threading than uh kind of the oddball gunsmithing world sort of thing so this will be salvageable now again i won't be making the the latch that holds the original ones in place i could i mean i have drawn up exactly how i think that it would go but the the sad fact of the matter is that i do not have access to the tooling for that right now so you know maybe down the line i can have another one of these made and you know try my hand at it but for now i'm just going to keep it threaded so that's the plan now as far as the slug mold goes i've been rejected yet again by a couple of other people who thought they could take it on and then didn't so i'm left with a couple of options at this point one i go to 3d hubs and pay them 250 to make just this teeny tiny little three-part uh assembly that i need which is really just two parts one of which is uh duplicated so that's a bit pricey for that but it is an option two i get my own lathe for honestly not a tremendous amount more and just have it on hand to do projects like this i'm really considering it you can get a mini lathe for decently cheap i mean with all the tooling and whatnot you're looking at about a grand or so which obviously is a lot more than 250 bucks but you're not just kind of pissing it away at the same time so that's option number two option number three which i'm kind of pursuing right now because it's the quickest and i think the most economic one is i found a very very very very hard to find um ball end mill that is 7 8 inch in diameter which is just about what i need it's a little little short but i can always hopefully ream it out a little bit so that will take care of the outer section of it the clamshell if you will as far as the central plug the the core of it gives a slug its hollowness that's pretty much going to have to be turned on a lathe so it's not complicated hopefully i can convince somebody to help me out with that without having to spend hundreds of dollars on it but we will see okay so it's a little wonky but we've got the basis of our stock all set up now i don't know about you guys but i think the length of pole might be just a little bit short i'm thinking about extending it a little further here [Music] bandsaw is currently unavailable back again we have our stock essentially where it needs to be i've got it properly threaded and to the appropriate size i've made the length of pull identical to the wooden stock so should be about where it needs to be so again this just threads in using a 5 8 by 18 thread not quite as quick as i would like but it's fine so there we have our stock so at the end here i just have a very rudimentary 3d printed shape that looks as best as i can tell identical to the originals now i'm not entirely certain if the originals were just stamped steel or machined or if they had any sort of skeletonization or whatnot so for the time being i'm just going to keep it just one solid chunk of steel it is of course going to be pretty heavy again as a result but honestly once again i don't care if it's too heavy that's probably going to be more helpful than anything with the recoil so with that in mind this is about where we're going to be at now this little piece right here to have this machined out of just regular old mild steel going to cost probably about at least 200 for something that's basically bar stock already it's got a little bit of angles to it a little bit of concave bevel there and of course the the ends are slanted but just very very rudimentary and yet it's still going to cost quite a bit quite a bit now since i'm going to have to have that machined i figure you know might as well just throw the slug mold in with it it's going to cost me like 400 bucks if not more for all the pieces together but you know i'm already so deep into this thing i don't care all right so real quick i put some paint on the 3d printed buttstock and i cold blued the actual steel stock itself so that is approximately what it's going to look like when it's all said and done feels pretty good well hey there folks merry christmas man is this thing done yet no no it isn't so where are we at we have finished the stock we have plonked a little set screw into the base of the grip there that interfaces on a little divot on the threads of the actual stock itself and up top we have our nicely machined butt plates which cost far too much money but you know whatever and i just finished up putting the welds on it they are definitely not the best in the world but you know working with a flux core welder i think that's pretty decent for what we're working with i cleaned them up a little bit and slapped a little bit more cold blue on here i will probably have this uh this whole stock assembly cerakoted when everything is said and done but for now the blue is uh just fine so that's basically where we're at we only have two more things to do since the stock is now for all intents and purposes completely finished it's nice and nice and rigid in there nice and stable and the set screw keeps it in place rotating backing out and whatnot still very very heavy this is solid steel i would you know like to drill a hole straight down through it but i don't have the means or tooling to do that to save a bit of weight and this is just a solid chunk of steel here as well so very very hefty but you know whatever that's fine so it feels very comfy and it is very quick to take out as well not as quick as the originals probably were but you know just back that side squat a little bit and twist this off and you got it off in about maybe 10 seconds or so not too bad so that's where we're at looks fantastic for end still great grips yeah looking pretty good so what do we have left well we need to chop the barrel which will look right about like that so again not doing that until we have the shells made and ready and i have put in an order for those a little bit of a setback on them uh the lead time is actually three months instead of three weeks like i had originally thought so more waiting who'd have thought in the meantime i picked up a copy of four and eight bore shotguns by tom armbrust more like arm burst am i right but uh anyway there's a bit of load data in there that's obviously not going to be one to one compatible here but it's a decent start so going off of those metrics at least for the materials at hand we're going to be using some blue dots with some cci209s now as far as the actual loading data goes for the shot weight and powder amount and whatnot obviously i'm not going to be using any of that we're going to start real low and work our way up now i only have three shells on order so it may be a little difficult hopefully i can load those in the field and not have to wait a few more months in between but we will see how things go so we now have three empty brass holes here ready to go and let me just skip ahead a little bit here this fully primed fully loaded ready to go shell right here how do we get here from here well let's take a look so they're a little dirty but these are two halves identical halves of our slug mold as you can see there is a little cut out there for the insert to fit into just like that and this is almost kind of sort of identical to what you'd see in just a 12-gauge foster style slug we dump our lead in here cracker open and with a little encouragement knock those slugs off so why don't we take this over to our lead pourer and make a couple slugs and you can see exactly how that process goes this is your standard lee 12 gauge foster slug a little casting unit all together all nice and prim and proper and as it should be i would love to have something like this but unfortunately this uh the the handle the tongs etc they're just not of correct dimensions to make that work effectively meaning i would have to fabricate some of my own up and that's just a lot of doing which i have not found the time for so let me show you the incredibly incredibly bootleg solution that we've got going on instead this is it we have a little little plate of steel here i would love to drill and tap this and get it to swivel in and out but this is fine as is just lay that over top and it does have a little teeny tiny a little bit of a taper to it to help the lead pour in and we just slap that up top and as soon as this guy is done heating up not quite yet but he's getting there as soon as that heats up we'll show you exactly what this looks like so obviously this is not the fastest method available but let's be honest here i'm not going to be cranking these things out by the thousands so you figure 20-ish slugs or so easy-peasy no problem [Music] all right so we've made a small number of them we got five here they've all turned out fairly okay little imperfections here and there but again i'm not gonna sweat the details as of right now these are all good to go they take a tremendous amount of time each i'm starting to get into the rhythm of it but i think i'm gonna stop it at five here just for now now for reference these are all quote unquote four gauge slugs they're not they're about 6.28 gauge give or take by american metrics but nevertheless these are big boys about two two and a quarter ounces apiece i believe and the outer diameter is about 0.88 2.9 give or take for reference this is a 12 gauge slug of the same design still a key drive i have such juvenile humor as you can probably see i've made a couple of other little tools here to help with the reloading process now as i'm sure you're aware there's not exactly dies or anything for this so i had to get a little creative so let's start from the top shall we so we've got two components here we have one for the case mouth basically just to keep it contained and stop the force from being distributed unevenly when we press it in and we have another one here which has a little dot at the bottom there to exert force solely on our primer basically to get this whole process started you just want to get that little guy in there just a hair and as i'm sure you're aware the primers are very very tight fit so i'll take our tail cap here let's put that on come over to our our little cheapy 10 harbor freight um drill press vise and slap the whole thing into the assembly and just crank away so unfortunately i don't have any um what would you call stops set in here anywhere to tell you that it's fully in so you just kind of have to take it little by little but of course the nice thing about all this stuff is i made it with field reloading in mind as i only have three shells uh obviously i'm not going to be loading up um ten different slug rounds here so this is all going to be on the fly very fast and loose but this stuff has uh it's been working all right so far that should be about that primer needs to be at so let's take a look here just about two millimeters more there we need so we're gonna put that back in our system and yes i am fully aware of how completely janky everything here is but it works and if it works well that's all that matters and there we go that's nice and flush with the rim there so that's primer loading and then you just take fill it with powder obviously slap your wad on top of it and there's that resistance fit i was talking about that needs to be compressed now as far as depriming goes uh imagine this is a spent primer so this little guy is our depriming housing unit just has a little cutouts there for the rim it snaps into place and you'll have a little exit hole at the bottom there where the primer is going to pop out this little insert here is just a little drill bit that i step down just a hair on the lathe so that it'll poke out the bottom just like that now since this isn't just a straight pillar it has a little bit of taper on it it takes a little bit of trial and error to get it lined up properly because it has a bit of wobble to it as you might imagine but otherwise just kind of feel around for it about right there give or take i'll just give it a little whap okay so i set this on some concrete off screen to kind of give it a decent surface to actually pound on from but this is essentially where that ends up at i probably should have made this thing a little bit longer because it sits very nearly flush with that but just enough to grab hold of it extract that shell will come out a-ok and your primer oops primer comes out the very bottom so that's de-priming and that's basically the whole reloading setup all right so we're out here at the range we're gonna take a few shots with this guy um we've got these huge huge beefy rounds these are like 985 grain slugs i've got loaded up with 35 grains of alliant blue dots and i have no idea what's going to happen so we're going to be firing this remotely now the ks23s they're kind of notorious for shooting light loads less lethal stuff like that but you figure they also have the barracuda rounds which are big solid steel projectiles that they would shoot at cars coming towards barricade so you figure they should be able to handle something pretty stout those uh those steel penetrators those are well over a thousand grains so hopefully we'll be all right but if not this gun's gonna blow up and i'm gonna have a really bad day okey dokey moment of truth here goes okay well that didn't go didn't go as planned i think i saw something pop out of there did it was that it that was that was just primer was what it seemed like yeah that is all unburnt powder in there okay uh this one i didn't get a great seal on the wad so a lot of the powder probably was all dispersed so let's try another one all right here we go three two one damn there you have it it's just barely poking out the end there didn't quite make it yep same exact thing so not wanting to leave empty-handed we cannibalized some other shells for their powder we put a whole bunch of extra compression on this one to the point where we actually expanded the brass a little bit and had to hammer them in but uh hopefully this one should work that's like 24 grains of whatever the hell was in those shells winchester all right this uh yeah well let's just see what happens shall we three two one something something happened seeing any bulges no cracks and the shell actually extracted so i guess we recompressed it back in by beating it into the chamber so cool that was a success but not what was intended but uh one successful shot i'm good with that so there's obviously a lot to talk about with what's going on here obviously this one was tremendously overcharged you see a whole bunch of unburp powder just spilling out the front there it turned out all right somehow and spite is catastrophically dangerous and reckless as that was our slug did in fact make it to the projected velocity of about a thousand feet per second so neat okay so we're back out with the bfg-1 i got a whole bunch of shells loaded up i'm starting at 20 grains of blue dot i'm gonna work my way up kind of find that sweet spot of velocity hopefully around a thousand feet per second but we'll see how it does gonna start with the 20s i have a couple loaded up here a little tightness belt's brand new once again uh thank you to lily for that it's great love it but uh yeah starting with 20 grain i have a couple different varieties of these they've got uh this one has half an inch of wadding and when i say wadding i just need some cork board that i stamped out these ones over here have one and a half inch gives a little bit more compression a little bit more more sealing in there so we'll see if there's any difference there but we're going to start with the half inchers this is a 20 grain load and again these are a thousand grain slugs so we'll see how that does okay slow-mo cam set up ready to go and yeah i just need to pull the trigger let me make sure everything's ready to rock and roll here three two one come on unfortunate okay so we're having the same problem that we had last time which is uh that was just a primer pop with no powder burn whatsoever which is weird because these shells were loaded with plenty of compression but i'm i'm thinking maybe it's just the powder that i have because it's it's a light blue dot which is a little sensitive to the cold it's not cold right now but it's been sitting in my garage for a while maybe that's the problem i don't know but this is frustrating so we'll see how this does with some other shells here unburnt primer or excuse me unburnt powder just kind of sitting in there loosey-goosey so you probably won't be able to see but let's see if we can get in there yeah it's just just all all up in there unfortunate again nope just all all mush and that that's wet that's all wet why is that wet interesting maybe my powder is wet it wasn't when i loaded it but something funky is going on so we'll try a couple more if you saw last time the one that we did get to fire wasn't using that powder it was using uh just some standard 12-gauge field load shells that we cut apart and dumped the powder into that and that one actually fired so disappointing but it's all part of the process oh yeah i need to check as well yeah i wouldn't want to make that mistake again yeah so just the uh the powder pop excuse me primer pop alone it uh it'll launch it out there but you can see maybe it's a little sunny out so i can't see what the camera's picking up but uh that slug it's right there so almost made it out of the barrel not quite though so gonna need some diagnostics here all right so we're gonna do some shuffling around um i have a sneaking suspicion because i used elmer's glue to kind of get a seal on slugs and a little bit on the wads as well so i'm thinking maybe some of the moisture from that seeped down into the powder maybe i don't know so hopefully these um these ones with an inch and a half of uh cork board in there would have enough of that to stop that from bleeding through so we'll see how that goes um yeah so no more of that in the future i guess once again if nothing else at least doing this still super satisfying all right attempt number two three two one that was something [Music] oh fizzle a little fizzle yep same exact thing the slugs are just making it right to this ring right here just not that's a different diameter that's that's just all the power they got behind them with just the primer as you can see that powder it uh bless his heart it tried but no all right let's see what we got yeah yeah that the whole thing is just kind of soaking wet you can tell that's that's definitely that glue in there so lesson learned no more elmer's glue all right so at this point we've i think pretty clearly found out what the problem was that powder's just getting way too much moisture in there from what i would assume to be the glue used to seal it so not going to be doing that anymore i'll probably print some little discs to put in between the the slugs and the the wadding because i'm actually getting cork back inside the key drive section of that so i'll do that as well but point is i think we figured out what the problem here is and we're going to try one more 35 grains of blue dot in in the inch and a half wadding see if it does anything probably won't but we'll see what happens here so just this is going to be the last one of the day so here we go three two one it didn't exactly click immediately out in the field what went wrong here but this was a hang fire that was a primer pop which sent the slug all the way to the end of the barrel and then the powder kicked off that is incredibly dangerous i'm phenomenally lucky and phenomenally thankful at the same time that nothing went horribly wrong what essentially happened is that was a pipe bomb shell that was a shell that created a pipe bomb it's fortunate enough to where that slug was sitting right at the very very very end if that was any further back we could have had the whole thing burst but no it just took a little bit more pressure to kick it out the end and then that released all the pressure there but again this was phenomenally dangerous and it almost ripped the entire gun uh possibly some cameras and who knows what else so very very very very lucky on this one now the reading on the chronograph was not exactly accurate either it was reading about 1500 feet per second and you can see on the actual camera playback that that slug is not cranking out there quite that fast in fact if we slow it down here you'll see frame by frame right there the reading is already on the chronograph before the slug even gets there so more than likely that was a little piece of the cork board that blasted past it you can see in the slow-mo that it actually impacts the slug itself and then just goes careening tremendously faster so that was probably just some powder or detritus or something that set that off the slug itself was probably moving about maybe 500 feet per second or something like that i haven't done the calculations but not very quick so to reiterate a bit about what's happening here the slug is not held very firmly in place primer pops it sends that forward when it shouldn't with no powder burn and then the powder just doesn't ignite because it's no longer under any compression so this one here is still using the elmer's glue we tried hot glue later on and the clips you're about to see and that did equally as bad it's just not a strong sealant so next up in the plan is using some sodium silicates and water glass and we haven't tried those out just yet that's for next video but they seem to be a much much much stronger seal about on par with what a crimp should properly be so hopefully we'll have some better luck with those but yeah these did not go well obviously 1500 that's a little little stout gun looks all right not seeing any stress fractures or anything we'll take a closer look at the uh the bore later but looks perfectly fine so there's a proof test here's a 20 grain so we try and shoot this one by hand see what happens probably nothing but let's find out load that one up chump chunk okay and three two one uh such a funny noise it makes all right yeah so yeah there's your answer um potter's getting all kinds of nasty and gunky we're back out here again i've got two shells loaded up just to test out real quick just to make sure everything's brim and proper as it should be and we've ironed out all the issues here so this isn't going to be walking it into any velocity or whatever just going to see if they actually fire if they actually work so let's see what happens one more time three two one so same sort of dealio we're just groundhogging right at the very front and uh yeah that's the hot glue that i sealed it with and there's your slug and no powder burn whatsoever three two one yep so unfortunately that's gonna be it for part one here this video is pushing an hour in length now mind you this is 20 plus hours of condensed footage that you're seeing here so there's a lot that just didn't make the cut i do hate to end it on the nadir of the project like this but trust me things are getting smoothed out very nicely ever since that last outing as always thank you very much to all my incredibly patient patrons i know this one has been an incredibly long time coming we will absolutely round this one out but until next time

Channel: Kjaskaar

Views: 98,751

Rating: 4.9379363 out of 5

Keywords: KS23, KS-23, KS23M, KS-23M, Gun, Shotgun, Shooting, Tarkov

Id: rVRglJTCleY

Length: 58min 34sec (3514 seconds)

Published: Sun Nov 01 2020