Making a Longbow: Osage Orange

[Music] hey guys welcome back to our - craftsmanship my name is Dustin and today in the shop we're gonna be making a long though I'm remaking a long bill out of all one piece of wood which in the boyars world is called a self bow I've made a few self bows I've made maybe four or five Osage South bows which is what we'll be doing today I've also made one out of Hickory I've made one out of a sh and there's some other woods you can use for making self bows now I really like using Oh shades because Osage moste charns or if you're in the south some people call it bow dark it's really good it has really good characteristics for tension and compression now attention is when you pull a bow when you draw a bow back the area that's facing away from you is stretching and that's tension so that's pulling it away from the woods pulling away from each other on the belly of the bow which is the part of the bow that faces you when you pull the bow is move it it's bending it's compressing the wood so Osage is really good the all the grains can hold and handle that tension and compression both really well so what we'll do today I did take out my draw horse I haven't used this one in a while so I had shored up the legs a little bit they're a little wobbly so I used some some axe wedges put that in there and shir it everything up this designed for this draw horse I got from the homestead craftsman he does a really nice draw horse and I kind of watched one of his videos a couple years ago and I used his style I really like it alright so the first step in the process and we're gonna do today is we look through my stash of stays see what I have there find one that's relatively straight so we don't do a ton of work straightening after process which we may end up doing and I will talk to you about that when we get there but otherwise we'll see what I have here pull out a one that works and I'll show you my first step in the process which is chasing the growth ring let's get started so Osage is very bendy and very wobbly so you're always gonna have to deal with some of it but this one has a little bit of twist in it so it does twist from one end to the other one this one's a little bit straighter so it doesn't have twists and the other thing about this one on my right is that it has a knot right here so anytime you have a knot in a bow you want to make sure that that knot is right in the middle of a limb instead of on off to either side and if you do have a knot you'd have to leave a lot of extra wood around it so it doesn't bend and snap so because of that this one's also a really good piece I'm going to put that one aside and we're gonna go ahead and use this one for today it has a little bit of bend in it from the from the length so the tips anytime you're making a bow you want the tips of your bow and the handle will line up as a straight line and basically you want that pretty much that way that way when you're shooting your bow the the the string is straight down the middle of the bow so we will have to deal with that at the point in the process we will work on a little bit of the steam bending to get that straight but this is pretty good it doesn't have a lot of twist it's nice and straight here by the time it gets to the other end it's nice and straight and as far as I can tell right now there's a little maybe little teeny pin pin knots in it but no significant knots so this should be a really good bow stave to start with alright one of the great things that I love about bow making is that you can basically do it with super inexpensive tools you know I can make the whole thing out of just hand tools I would use predominantly maybe a hatchet to remove a lot of material and then use my draw knife and use a spokeshave and use maybe a few rasps all tools that are hand tools that you can get for less than $10 a piece I have for I think three or four different draw knives I've picked them all up from yard sales for under $10 and just kind of tuned him up in my own same thing I have a couple farriers rasp one that I bought new for $12 and then I have two or three other more that I bought for just a couple bucks each again these are kind of relatively cheap hand tools that you could buy and then you can make your entire boat without having to use any big shop tools and do this all completely outside you get outdoors no electric and I love that about this process and about this project that being said I do have a bandsaw and I am going to be using the bandsaw today to remove some of the material it'll just save me a little bit of time and just go a little quicker and I'm gonna be doing a lot of work removing the bark and removing the SAP wood on my draw horse and so I want a flat side to be able to clamp everything down on in the draw horse so I'm gonna come back in now with the bandsaw and I'm just gonna trim off this outer edge the part that I know I won't need just to make it a little easier for me to clamp and start on the next step [Music] the main tool I'm gonna be using for this first process is the draw knife I have a few different draw knives some are sharper for more fine woodworking this one is although it is sharp it's not as sharp as some of my other ones which actually works a little bit better for doing bow making because it takes a little bit more effort to cut into it but that also saves you some times for cutting too deep into your wood and violating those growth rings and so at this point I want to be able to take off the bark to take out the SAP wood and then just do this kind of careful chasing your growth ring and I'll talk a little bit more about that but first thing we're gonna do is go ahead and take this bow and take my draw horse we'll take it outside go sit in the shade and work in this beautiful day [Music] you see that I'm starting to remove the SAP with the sapwood is this quarter-inch of white wood on top and the heartwood is orange wood so as I'm drawing back I'm just using the draw knife to cut away the SAP wood and you can see here where I've actually gotten rid of all the SAP wood and I'm now into the yellow of the heartwood so I'm gonna work my way down remove all the SAP wood first and then once I get to the heartwood then I'll start drawing back on that until I just cut away all one growth ring of heartwood and that'll add to the strength of the back of the bow throughout the process of working with the draw knife and on the draw horse you'll see me clip back and forth between two ways of using the draw knife so right now I'm using it bevel up which means the bevel that's cut for the edge is facing up toward me and what this is good for it's good for a lot of aggressive removal of wood because with the bevel facing up pointing down it wants to dig down to the wood as I draw it through it wants to go down into the wood now the other way that I'll be using it is with bevel down so I'll flip it over the bevel edge is now facing down and because it's facing that way as I'm pulling it it wants to move back up out of the wood so if I'm doing fine work and I want to be careful I don't dig down too deep I'll use it with the bevel down and that way the blade wants to cut the wood but it wants to come up toward me rather than dig down in and cut more wood so this way I can be a little bit more careful about taking off a little bits of wood when I'm actually chasing the growth rings I want to go too deep keep my wood from cracking on the ends I paint on my ends what I'm gonna do now is I'll go ahead and take my saw and I'll trim this off so you guys can see the growth rings I can talk about my next step of chasing a growth ring [Laughter] so here you can see dark rings light ring dark light dark light so this dark ring here this is a late growth and then the white ring right above its early growth so when I'm cutting down through this light wood is they're gonna be very porous and I'll be able to feel it almost crunchy like a waffle and then you get down into the darker wood and that'll be a little bit harder so I'm gonna try to find a growth ring and I'm looking for one about here here's a dark ring here and it kind of comes across it comes up and a little bit harder to follow over here but it'll do something like that so that's kind of what I'm gonna cut down to I'll start just on the end I'll cut down until I find that ring down here that I want and then I'll start working my way back and cutting into just through this SAP wood layer I mean into this this early wood layer and into the late wood layer there I'm down through five or six growth rings down to this which is kind of a little bit thicker growth ring and I have a consistent one all the way across so I'm just working my way back this is where you really want to take your time don't be in a hurry just make sure that you have you know you're cutting away the right rings and you're not violating you're cutting through your growth ring that you want to keep that is going to be your eventual strength of your bow is having one full growth ring so just take your time work your way back and cut away these earlier rings until you have a full smooth surface so I'm slowly making my way down chasing growth rings this bow is taking me a little bit more time because there are a lot of little pin knots in it and whenever I have areas of pin knots I try to leave maybe a layer or two layers above it almost like a topographical map and you can kind of see some of that in here I still need to make sure I've chased all the way down underneath of it to one growth ring and I have this one kind of coming up here wrapping around to about there and this one comes up here on this side and wraps around so I'm leaving these pin knots here I'm leaving kind of an island of additional growth rings on top and I'm working my way down and so it tends to be a little bit more time-consuming on osage because that you know when you hit those pin knots you need to make sure that you don't go down too far into them because they can crack and pull off so this is going to take a little bit more time that I plan but that's all part of you know the joy and fun of working with osage so I'll work on this and it'll take me maybe another day or so and I'll be back with you guys after that as you guys can see I've moved down into the shop it's a little cooler down here because it's really hot and humid outside right now so I did move down and I've been working on the bow I've chased it all the way down I've got about six inches left and I'll show you how I do that last a little bit but this stave has had tons of pin knots I think the biggest gap in distance between two pin nuts I had was about 11 inches other than that it's just been pinned not back and forth back and forth all the way down so it's been it's been a heck of a chasing stage but it's gone really well I'm really happy with it so far so let's show you how I finished out the last little bit you can see that I've kind of chased this growth ring back down a little further so I know you know as I'm pulling stuff back I know where to go too so I've pulled all these growth rings down to about one or two above the growth ring that I'm working on so then I just come up and go up to where I was and start pulling back on it now the nice thing about the growth rings and osage is that the later wood is very hard so as you're pulling back you'll cut right through the early growth and your blade will just kind of slide across the later growth so it it kind of lends itself to being chased a little easier because you do have that different texture and different feel of the wood another tool I've been using a lot as well as a cabinet scraper and that helps to just kind of clean up those areas where the the draw knife isn't working as well so try to make sure that these islands where the pin mats are aren't too high and also don't have some fiber so I'm just finishing up with the cabinet scraper and I'll just move over to just some medium grit this is maybe 220 grit sandpaper and I just hit the top of each of these pin not islands as well as the surface of the bail and that just helps to kind of clear off any a little bit fibrous that's early growth and also any little bits of wood that might be sticking up that didn't get taken off all the way on the little pin not island just smooth it out so it's nice and smooth and we can move on to measuring out for our bow now I'm gonna go ahead and draw out my bone I'm gonna draw it from the front and from the side so I can kind of mark all my measurements to kind of make sense of all these measurements that I have the measurements that I'm using are all for a hunting weight bow which is going to be anywhere between kind of a 45 to 65 pound draw weight depending on your size and what you use as well but these measurements are all based off of that I'm gonna get in draw them out so I can kind of get them down the paper and if you want to you can go ahead and pause and screen grab this and you can use my measurements so here you can see I have all my measurements drawn out so this is for the bow it's gonna be 68 and a half inches tall the handle will be four and a half inches tall and then so the thickness of the handle the width will be an inch and a quarter so I'll go from the top of the handle I'll go up two more inches and flare out to an inch and 3/4 then I'll keep that with all the way through halfway the limb of the bow it'll stay an inch and three quarters and then I'll evenly taper from the halfway point to the tip down to five-eighths of an inch similarly with the thickness of the bow so the depth the handle will be an inch and a half deep thick in my hand that'll also be four and a half inches tall and I'll go the same two inches I'll taper down and the thickness of the bow will be three-quarters of an inch starting at the limb and then that will taper a taper evenly all the way down to the end or the top of the limb which will be a half an inch at the end of this limb I do have a little crack it's off to the side though so I'm not too worried about it the tip of my bow is going to be down here so that shouldn't be a problem there was a one other spot that I have to worry about and that is right here I have where I violated a growth ring and you can see it actually goes down from this growth ring down to the next one below it and so I did that actually later in the process as I was coming back and kind of cleaning up some of these islands unfortunately I still have plenty of material so I'm gonna go ahead and cut it off here and I'll start my 68 inches at that spot [Music] here you can see that I'm kind of bypassing this pin not by about a quarter of an inch now these islands make the pin knots look like they're a lot bigger than they are and in reality they're just the the size of these little pins you can see so as long as I avoid them and try not to go straight down the middle of much should be fine so this one will even about a quarter of an inch here so ideally I'd like to bring the tip over to this clear section so I don't have to worry about this pin not the problem with that is that I also have this pin not here so I'm going to come up and I'll come up kind of to the right of this a little bit and try to avoid that somewhat come back a little bit to the left and then up to the end so I'm gonna make my measurements now I'll measure along the way try to see if I can get that evenly just avoiding this second pin knock hole I mean the pin knots that's going to be a little bit tricky but I think I have enough material there so we already start at one end of the limb this is five eighths of an inch we taper evenly to one and three quarters at mid limb and we keep it one in three quarters all the way until we get to the bottom of the limb which then tapers down to one and a quarter the handle stays one and a quarter and then flares back out to one and three quarters there we go again to mid limb keep it at one in three quarters and then taper evenly down to five eighths at the other end of the though I have all my measurements on my own my stave I'm going to trim off of the width from the bandsaw so I have the entire width ready to go then it'll also leave me with clean side so I can mark off the depth for the handle and the actual limbs and we'll trim that off as well [Music] now that I have the bow down to the general shape starting to look like a bow next thing to do is just kind of come back with a rasp and we're just going to clean up some of this kind of rough grain on the edges where the bands all didn't take off the wood [Music] so now I'm to the point where I need to make some adjustments to the limbs so this bottom limb the one that's facing is a little bit a little bit bent out to the right and also it has some twist on it where it comes down and the twist to the left so I need to adjust that tip bring it back so it's in line with the other tip and also bring this limb back to the left I also have a little area here on the end the final foot or so I might add a little bit of heat to and adjust that as well and throughout the video I may have mentioned that I'm gonna do some steam bending but when I actually gonna do is some dry heat bending with oil so I'll add some oil to the area that I want to Bend and I'll just use my heat gun and add some heat to it and add some weight and pressure to the areas that I want to twist and just adding that heat and letting the natural weight Bend well I'll show you how I can kind of get those tips to come back to where they need to be and also get that limb to come back to the left see now I've put a quick clamp on the end of this the reason why I do this is that I want to add some weight to the end of this so that way it can bend naturally so just have a basket it has some C clamps and a wrench in there and I'm just gonna add that weight so this is probably about maybe two pounds or so what this will do is as I'm heating up this area it'll just naturally Bend when it's ready to bend so I don't actually have to force that or bend it when it's not you know the woods not warm enough it'll start to bend on its own as I'm heating this up I'm just gonna make sure I'm moving the heat gun all the way around I want to heat up the entire limb evenly or mostly evenly so I'm just gonna keep moving keeping the gun moving and hitting the back in the belly as well as both sides this just helped to warm everything evenly it'll it'll also keep you from scorching the outside of your wood do just more material you have to remove later so this way you heat everything up evenly and the oil will help the heat to penetrate into the wood some and then once this gets warmed up it'll start bending on its own so almost there now guys will write about I think it's Benny six five and a half or six inches and our tips are pretty much in line I'm gonna go a little bit further now just for that kind of post Bend that's gonna spring back some so we got a little bit more heat let it drop down maybe to about five inches or so on your side all right so now we have some of that post Bend taking into account so I let it twist a little bit more than I wanted to go so that way when I release all the weight will spring back some it should be just about in line if you have a tip so we'll go ahead and let this cool down now completely on its own just hanging where it is and then we'll take off the weight and see how it turned out and now it's cooled for about 25 minutes or so so I'm gonna head and take the weight off and we'll see how much Bend back we get we get sprung back maybe about a half an inch or so it's perfect because the tip now is in line with the other end [Music] you'll start heating now and where I want this to bend is right about at the handle and the fade-out which is nice because this is gonna be the thickest part it's not gonna have a lot of Bend or movement in it later so if there is any kind of damage to the internal structure of that wood it won't matter here because it's not gonna Bend so much you don't really have to worry about that too much with those hey just loves to Bend but even still it's just a good spot to bend it and I want this to come down about two and a half inches or so so I'm gonna heat it let it come down that two and a half inches maybe go another quarter an inch or a half an inch further to compensate for that pre Bend [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right so that took me maybe about 25 minutes or so for the first 20 minutes it only moved about a quarter of an inch but I just added a little bit more way to the basket kept on heating it and that last five minutes it really moved those entire two inches it was really cool just watching it start to drop so just take your time sometimes it takes a little longer than all other places but because this wood was so thick here it really just took some time to heat up before it really started moving well I'm letting the other end of the bow cool with the weight on it I just grabbed another bucket put some more weight in it and I'm gonna add some oil and heat here to bring this tip down so when I was drawing out and setting this stave this end this limb it was a little off because I had to avoid this pin not so I want to bring that a little bit down so just about this four inches or so through here I'll heat it up and let this come down just about a half an inch [Applause] [Music] all right so this tips come down maybe about 3/8 or so which is just about perfect it looks really nice and even now all along the limb so I'm gonna go ahead and leave these weights on and I'll let it settle and dry and cool down for baby about an hour or so and then I'm gonna take all the weights off and I'll let it settle completely overnight and we'll come back tomorrow and start tillering [Music] hey guys we're back in the shop into the next day I came down last night and it took the weights off and checked the limbs they're pretty good so now I'm going to use my tailoring string and I'll check the whole bow for straightness over the length of the bow all right I haven't filed in the knocks yet for this bow so I'm just putting a loop right over the end of the tip and just centering that line and I'm just we're going to bring this other end of the tillering string up and just pull it tight Center it on the end of this tip and then we can see how the limbs are lining up and they're pretty straight now you can see that the bowstring comes down and it's not exactly centered it's off to the side a little bit and I won't be actually cutting an arrow rest into this handle so that actually works well because with a bow like this the error has to come around the handle as you shoot it so the fact that the string is a little bit off to the side actually will work pretty well with allowing that arrow to come around and fire straight well it's not as hot as it was out yesterday and the day before outside so I'm gonna go ahead and grab my draw horse move back outside and start doing some floor tailoring [Music] first thing I'm gonna do in the telling process is just start removing some of this material evenly all the way down now I left about an eighth sixteenth to an eighth of an inch down all the way proud so I want to kind of remove that and start to even up the amount that I have on both sides of the limb and also just to round off the edges a little bit to get rid of their sharp corners [Music] we come back through periodically and check and mark off my half inch line here I'm down to it on the curve so I'll leave those and thing a little thicker around this pin not then as I get closer up to mid limb I start going up a little higher because I want to get up to the 3/4 this eyes looking pretty good [Music] [Music] as I do a little ground tillering I'm just pushing on the handle holding up top just to see where the limb is bending and I'm getting most of my bend right here in the middle which means I have the majority of the movement is there so the tips not really bending and this upper limb isn't bending too much so I want to keep working on the areas around that I just marked off the areas I don't want to do and I'll just keep working on the areas around that until I get kind of a nice even Bend on all of it now obviously I have a long way to go but this is just to get that initial Bend before I do like get it up onto my tailoring tree and doing some more serious tillering and this sides a little bit more stiff I'm only getting a little bit of Bend down here in the last maybe quarter or so of the limb so everything on this needs to take be taken down some more but it's a good start [Music] [Music] [Music] I'm gonna measure again now from the tips of each limb that's thirty four and a half inches and that's all thirty four and a half inches and that's both to my original centerline so I've marked off here one inch down from the end on this tip and also one inch down from the end on this tip which would be thirty three and a half inches on each limb which puts my overall length to my bowstring and my knockin points at sixty seven inches which is my original design I'm going to mark off now 45-degree angle for my knocks and I'll use a chain saw file to file this out I'll do one on both sides [Music] [Music] but I have my Knock Scott I'm gonna go ahead and put on my tillering string another string I have a Flemish twist loop on one end and on the other end I've just left it loose so that way I can adjust the length of this string for whichever bow i'm tillering now when you're tillering a bow you want your little stream to be loose because you don't want to put pressure on your bow yet so I'm just gonna go ahead and wrap my fingers around this I'll put a loop right here around with a knocking point is and I'm gonna tie a timber hitch so a timber hitch is you just make a loop with your string back over itself and then you wrap it around itself maybe three or four times and wrap this and now we'll take this loop back over the end of the bow and we'll tighten that up so this is my tillering tree and I made this several years ago just a full dimension 2x4 that I kind of took the corners off and put a bunch of notches in at the time I wasn't specific about the distances I just needed to be able to draw down on it so I could look at it and test the tillering but I do have different measurements on here now and this all comes so I can just take my my bow I usually will put a glove up here just to have it a little bit tighter and add a little cushion to it and then I can draw down to the center of this and this gives me the ability to draw down on the bow put a little bit of pressure on it and I can start to look at how the limbs are bending and I also have some measurements on here so this goes from nine and kind of the measurements go down all the way to 30 down here but this gives me the ability to once I have the bow actually strung up and I'm starting to tiller it for full dimension for my draw length because of the ability to pull down on it to the dimensions that I want in the distance I want now that I have this up on the tree I started looking at where the limbs are bending so kind of put some pressure on watch them Bend so although this limb looks like it's bending evenly once I get it drawn down and hooked onto the tillering tree it's actually not it's not really bending it all here this just has this kind of Brie been pre bend to it so it looks like it is when I draw down on it you can kind of see that most of the bend is happening out here and in here so I need to remove more material here in this thick spot so I go ahead and just mark that with my pencil where I want to remove material and then I'll take a look at the other side do the same things now just go and I'll pull off some that material put it back up on the tillering tree and keep doing the same thing [Music] you [Music] at this point now I'm still working on tillering evenly and as you could see and kind of putting it up on the on the tillering tree and I draw down on the bow and I'm looking at specific areas where I see it bending more in the limb than other spots and those are called hinges so I'm trying to avoid having any hinge points where it's bending more than other spots and I want the limb to then evenly so as I'm working I'll come it I'll mark all those hinge points that I see and I'll bring it back to the vise using my rasp and just taking down those specific spots where I've marked once I've taken down those parts with the rasp and I'll bring my cabinet scraper over and I'll scrape those those spots clean so then I have a whole limb that's clean again then because I want to take all of the bow down and draw rate still needs to come down still really high on draw weight and I'll come back and I'll take an even amount I'll scrape all the way down with the rasp down the entire limb and then clean it back up with the with the cabinet scraper as well that way I'm bringing draw weight down across the entire limb on both sides but before that I'm hitting those spots that I am getting rid of those hinges evenly as well [Music] go ahead and take off the tillering string now and I'll put on my bow string that I made specifically for this bow and I did shoot a video on making that bow string specifically how to make a Flemish twist double end bow string so if you're watching this in the future go ahead and over and check that out and if not it'll come out soon so we'll put in that video out next this bow string has two different size loops the big loop goes on the top so it can slide down the smaller loop goes on the bottom there's another way a bit strung up I'm gonna go ahead and put it all my scale here this scale is a 50-pound scale so as I draw down on this I can see the scale moving and checking the weight it's about 40 pounds there and that's down to 50 so 50 pounds were at about maybe 22 or 23 inches kind of looks like at this point what I want is for this bow to be drawing at about 55 50 to 55 pounds at 28 inches 28 is a standard inch measurement for a draw weight of a bow and my draw length is about 29 to 30 inches standard so at 50 pounds of 28 inches I'll add an additional inch or so on inch and a half and for each inch and a half of pole you add in about about two and a half pounds of draw weight so I'm adding about two and a half to three pounds extra from my draw length which will put me at about somewhere between 52 and 57 pounds it's feeling great we're just at about 57 58 pounds at about 28 inches my drawings just about 29 inches so it's feeling perfect right about that 57 58 pound raw I really like the way it feels right now so I'm going to go ahead and move on and they do just a smidge more tailoring but at this point I'm gonna go ahead and shape the handle to get that feeling really nice and comfortable my hand and I'm also going to shape down the tips and give them a little bit of decorative edge that'll come in come back out to the middle of my palm here and then just a little bit back in and back out and we'll kind of mimic that on the other side just a little bit not as much but we'll take out some in the middle here and some of the middle here [Music] all right I just finished up doing my little decorative feather at the top and this just symbolizes the top of the bow the top limb so I'll go ahead and finish everything up with 220 grit sandpaper and then I love the bow I just finished sanding and I'm just wiping off any excess dust so there's not a ton of dust before I start oiling and I'm gonna be using 100% natural tung oil this is considered by most boyars to be the best oil heiress for bow making so I'm gonna oil the entire bow nice and even I'll give it about 20 minutes to a half an hour to soak in they'll come back and wipe off any excess and then I'll let it cure completely man oiling this up just makes it just look that much more beautiful there's just beautiful green and chatoyancy throughout the handle nice rings going up and down and just really brings a pop out to the entire thing alright guys we just finished up and it's killing me to say it but unfortunately it's raining so we're not gonna be able to shoot the bow today we'll come back and shoot it tomorrow it's the next day guys and it is a beautiful day today so we're gonna go ahead and shoot the bow this is would be the very first time that I've shot this bow I haven't shot it at all we're gonna capture the very first shot on camera so let's go ahead and see how she shoots anytime you're firing a longbow that's been unstrung for a while you want to warm up the limbs you want to get them stretching a little bit kind of get flexible and get warm in those new bends so I'm gonna go and pull this maybe a dozen or so times about a half draw and then maybe another dozen or so times a full draw before I actually shoot and fire this bell who fires great didn't explode now just gonna put another thousand errors for through it before I'm completely sure but as of right now it feels really good shoots really nice and straight and true my aim is not amazing but it's okay for what it's worth [Music] [Music] all right guys we're all finished the boat turned out really nice I'm really happy with it so far again like I said I'm gonna have to shoot a couple hundred more errors through it until I'm really comfortable that's gonna last for a long time but for now it's it's holding up really nicely and shooting really cleanly which I like so thank you so much for watching it's been a fun few days in the shop make sure if you haven't already thumbs up this video and give us a like go ahead and subscribe and follow us on Instagram if you don't already and I'm gonna take some more shots I'm gonna bring my daughter out we're gonna shoot some here and we'll take some fun long shots at the target aim fire fire [Music] not bad you're actually closer than I am you have the right distance aim fire Oh [Music]

Channel: The Art of Craftsmanship

Views: 857,363

Rating: 4.9017138 out of 5

Keywords: longbow, making a long bow, making a selfbow, making a longbow, making an osage bow, osage orange, osage bow, bois d arc, bowyer, how to tiller a bow, chassing a growth ring, flatbow, osage flatbow

Id: QnvbDP00p0U

Length: 48min 6sec (2886 seconds)

Published: Tue Jul 16 2019

Reddit Comments

[u/fierdetoi]

Incredible- 100% what this sub is all about!

[u/[deleted]]

Fantastic.

[u/Favvvv]

I’d like to try my hand at that. If only I were skilled enough

[u/Is_That_A_Threat]

Whats the point in putting in all the time with the draw knife if he uses a bandsaw and a rasp to shape?