Making a Knife: The Bushcraft Woodlore Clone

[Music] you hey guys welcome back to the other craftsmanship my name is Dustin and today in the shop we're gonna be making a bushcraft knife not only any bushcraft knife we're gonna be making the epitome of the bushcraft knives we're gonna be making a replica of Ray Mears would lure bushcraft knife this knife was designed by Ray Mears over a pattern of six years or so after using for years and years using different knives that didn't really do what he wanted them to do for bushcrafting he designed and came up with the wood lure bushcraft knife and he's been using it for over 20 years now and it's tried and tested there are a lot of other knife makers that make you know replicas and almost duplicates of the Ray Mears would lower bushcraft knife we're gonna be kind of following the same specifications we're gonna be using oh one tool steel for the knife blade we're gonna do a Scandi grind on the blade and we're also going to be using brass rods for rivets as well as brass tubing for a lanyard hole again we're just gonna try to follow all the specifics of the Ray Mears would lure bushcraft knife and try to make something that it's just going to work really well as an all-around outdoors camping bushcraft knife so let's get started alright so our dimensions for the wood allure knife the blade is supposed to be 110 millimetres and the entire length is 220 millimetres which translates out to just over eight just over four inches for the blade and almost exactly four and a half inches for the handle so the width is one inch one inch tall and our thickness is one-eighth of an inch so all the supplies that I purchased for this knife the steel and the brass rod and the brass tubing was all purchased from chance knife supply and you can go to knife making comm they have a great supply list and they are good on shipping I've always found that I get really good quality supplies from them so I usually order from Jantsch we're gonna cut this out with Milwaukee Porter bandsaw and I just have this clamped into my vise it works really well [Music] as you can see I made sure I left the blue marker all-boy around I can still see the blue marker all the way around my my profile of my blade because the inner edge of that blue marker is my final dimensions as I was tracing the paper that is the final dimensions of my blade I want to make sure I can grind down to that perfectly so I left myself a little bit all the way around to grind to that so I'll move over to the grinders now and clean it up some all the way down to my final dimensions [Music] [Music] I just put my original template back over my blade now so I have my line set up so I'm going to go ahead and center punch each of these three holes I'm just sitting my Center punch right in the middle we're gonna punch all three holes and then we'll drill out all three holes on the drill press [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] the holes drilled out really well these are nice and clean there are a little bit of burrs on the one side from pushing through so I'm gonna head and clean up that now I need to clean up the flats a little bit on both sides so I like to use this as a great little magnet I picked up from Harbor Freight and heavy-duty magnet with a handle on it and then works really well for holding onto steel when you're anytime you're grinding smooth sides gives you a nice little hole if there have been some people have asked about this so a nice little cheap magnet but it's got the handle on it which makes all the difference so we'll just go ahead and scribe with the tip of that drill bit right along that edge and then so we have a line and then to make sure that you have perfectly centered line you flip your steel over and scribe again [Music] next thing we're gonna do is I'm gonna set up for my actual grinding of my bevels and I use a piece of angle iron set at 90 degrees and I'll clamp my blade to this and because I'm using this and I'll set up the tool rest of my grinder at the degree that I want and so a standard Scandinavian grind is about 20 to 23 degrees so I'm gonna set mine up at about 11 degrees right now so that way I have that total of 22 degrees after I do 11 on each side and we'll start there and see how it feels if it works well and it's looking good then we'll keep going if not we'll make adjustments we need to [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] next thing I want to do is I'm gonna come back and I'm gonna add additional holes in here I have a 1/8 inch drill bit I'm gonna go and I'm gonna add a bunch of holes into the tang and that just gives me more material for the glue to go through and stick on when I do the final glue up of this handle I'm also gonna use those a little chamfering bit and I'll go through and I'll champ for all of my holes again just to give as much surface area as possible so that way when I do the glue up we'll have as much glue you know between the wood and the handle as possible [Music] alright guys our next step is to do a couple normalizing cycles and then do a quench and for that I'll be using my new Forge and this forward Zoey actually just recently built and shot a video of so if you're interested in that you can go back and see this made out of refractory bricks and the angle iron and threaded rod and it's all done with things that you can get from the hardware store and make at home the only thing I did purchase are these two burners but if you want to see that video we'll put a link in the description below so I'm going to go ahead and start light up the Forge and we'll start on the normalizing process so what I'm working on right now is doing my normalizing cycle so what I'm doing is bringing the blade up to kind of even bright red dull orange heat and then I'll bring it out and I'll let it cool down back to a gray steel cool so that way the the structure the grain structure of the steel has a chance to kind of even out make a really nice clean even grain structure so after you grind on a knife and after you you know hammer on it it kind of all the grain structure gets kind of funky so you want to do normalizing cycles before you do your actually wench and that will help to even out your grain and make it nice and clean some are you get a really nice clean knife so we're just about to that heat now maybe go ahead and take it out and walk lets us cool down and then we'll put it back in for a second normalizing I want to heat up my oil before I do my final quench so I'm gonna get seven old railroads like put that in there get that nice and hot and use that's warm up my oil [Music] [Music] so for my final normalizing cycle I'm just gonna make sure that this will be the hottest heat I'm gonna get a let it let it get all the way up to like a nice orange color and I'll just test it a couple times make sure it's non-magnetic all the way through which it is I'm gonna keep in the heat just a little bit longer let it get up nice and hot and I'll pull it out to normalize and then we'll go in for our final heat before we do our quench [Music] [Music] all right so while my blade is heating up in the Forge and I'll talk a little bit about my process I'm gonna do and a little bit about the quenching so the way that steel hardens is you have iron and carbon and they lock together when they're quenched really quickly so when you need to get your steel up to non-magnetic non-magnetic is about fourteen twenty or fourteen hundred and twenty-five degrees so once you get up to that temperature you want to keep it in the heat a little bit longer because you want to go up to maybe 1450 or so to get a really good quench so I'm gonna heat my blade up I'll check it for non-magnetic and when I know for sure that it's not magnetic I'll keep it in the Forge for about another minute or so before I do the quench when I go in for the quench I'm also going to make sure that I am quenching the edge of my blade as evenly as possible and make sure it goes nice and straight into the oil and also as evenly and as much as the blade as possible so I'm going to kind of tip my tongs up so that way I can quench my knife as evenly on that edge you know the reason why you want to do that is because when you're quenching steel you need to make sure that both sides of your steel are cooling down at the same rate if one side cools a little different you're gonna get more warping now warping is something that all knife makers have to deal with but anything you do to keep yourself from getting warping your knife is the best thing to do so I'm gonna try to make sure I go into my oil really even and really straight so I don't get more warpage across my blade so to get even cool down to get below that non-magnetic temperature and harden the blade it looks like we're nice and straight no warping which is awesome we just gotta gotten tested for hardness and then we'll prepare it for our tempering [Music] all right we're getting nice hardened edge I'm just getting some of the forge scale the black and four scales coming off but it's definitely hardened all the way so we're ready to do a temper but beforehand we'll just grind off a little bit more of this so we can see a nice clean bevel so we can see the colors during the tempering cycle so we're gonna go ahead and do our tempering cycles just in the standard kitchen oven and I want to do these two cycles at 400 degrees for two hours each and I'll pull out the knife between each cycle and let it air cool before I go back in for the second cycle all right guys well I just got finished up doing both tempering cycles again that was two cycles at two at 400 degrees for two hours each time and I got a nice kind of straw color across the blade Rizzo I'm looking for for the temperature of my final temper unfortunately there is a slight warp and it's very slight and you probably can't see it in the camera but there's a little bit of a warp here in the middle of the blade but there's a good way to test your blades to make sure they're flat you can always lay them on a flat surface and just tap the end so you can see this one has a little bit of a wobble to it where I'm getting a little crest and if I flip it over and see it's it's flat that way so there's a little bit of a crest on the one side and it's kind of about about midway or so within the blade so I'm gonna go ahead and move over to the vise now and I'll show you the way that I straighten my blades if I do have warps in them after heat-treat find three screws or three lag bolts I have these are lag bolts and they kind of a flat surface that's unthreaded at the close to the top so that will sit against my blade and basically when you have three points of connection your middle point is going to bend when you put pressure on your vise so you just need to put this point of pressure wherever your bend is and you want to tighten down just a little bit on your blade to get the blade to bend your opposite direction because you have to go past that bend to come back for it to stop in the middle so you know steel is springy so if you just go flat it's gonna keep bending back so you want to go a little bit past five but just be careful take your time don't rush it don't push too hard because this is also a really easy way to snap a blade that you've been working on so just go a little bit at a time a little bit past you can see now it's bending the opposite direction and then I'm just gonna loosen up just move it a little bit up and down to a few different spots just check for that I was able to get the warp out of the knife so it's nice and straight now so next thing we're gonna move over to my 4 by 36 grinder and I'm gonna clean up all the flats on the flat sides both sides and all the edges get to get all the forward scale off of the knife and then I'll move over to the 1 by 30 and I will continue and finish up my Scandi grind on the bevel now at this point this knife is heat-treated and it's ready to go so it'd be really really careful after you're doing heat treat to make sure your knife stays cool so I have my water bucket close a hand I'll just continually you'll see me continually dipping this into the water bucket and I won't be wearing gloves I wanna make sure I can feel the steel I don't want it to get heat up at all so I'm just gonna keep it wet keep it cool and keep continuing my grinds until I have everything where I want it before I do my handle cool [Applause] so I have this nice piece of black walnut I like this kind of darker area so I want to kind of include some of that in there but you can't do go too far I'm just going to trace this knife trace my blank so I kind of have a general shape of where I'm going to be and then I'll take this over the bandsaw and trim it short and then I'm going to stand it on its end and I'll trim it lengthwise as well so I can get to two sides that will be matched across the grain so I'll trim it down the middle here as well [Music] [Music] [Music] this handle scam material this is the acrylic that I use that's an engravers acrylic but it's light fast and this here is actually a black/white a two-ply black and white with actually a little a little mystery to it which I'll tell you guys about later but this will be nice because it'll be the metal and then black and then white and then the black walnut which will darken up really nice once we really [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] I'm gonna go ahead and shape the top of the handle we're transitions from handle to the blade I'm going to do that now because once I get everything glued up and I'm shaping the handle I don't want to have to try to shape any of this area in here which is going to be right against my blade I don't want to scratch up my blade at that plane because I'll have everything nice and fine before I after I do the glue up so I have everything pinned together now I'll go ahead and shape the top of this and do any transition shaping here at this point now [Music] so I just now finished up my front edges of my handle so we're ready to glue everything up [Music] I just finished cleaning all the squeeze out around the front of the knife and it looks like we have a really nice squeeze out all the way around everything else so I'm going to go ahead and just let this set up overnight completely we'll come back tomorrow and finish shaping the handle all right guys it's the next day and we're ready to pull off the clamps and start shaping the handle [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] I'm gonna start marking out the profile of the coke bottle shape of this handle it's narrower in the front and then it comes to a palm as well in the middle of the handle and then it tapers down toward the back and then back out once you get all the way to the end so I'm just going to mark off a few different dimensions about halfway and then I'm gonna split that difference and then I'll start putting in my dimensions for how thick I want the front to be how wide and the palm swell and then how much further down in the back when it dips down in the back of your hand [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] all right we got the handle all finished up feeling really nice but before we do the final oil up I'm going to go ahead and use my strapping belt and sharpen the blade [Music] [Music] alright guys well we are all done everything is finished finished sand the handle the blade sharpened up and the very final thing that I always do and it's the most beautiful thing is oiling the wood that just that last moment where you get to oil it and you just see the natural beauty that would just pop out it's a gorgeous thing and I love doing it let's go ahead and oil it up [Music] all right guys we're all finished up but I did tell you about halfway through the video when I was preparing the wood scales and the liners those black and white liners there's just some something special something secret about that so let me show you what that is so those white liners are actually glow-in-the-dark liners so they just glow right against the tang and stick that looks awesome just a super cool characteristic and just something a little different I think it turned out great alright guys thank you so much for watching this turned out really really nice and better than I could have thought it's just really fun knife to make and it's just a really cool experience to try to make this knife this the Ray Mears wood Lorne knife this is kind of the epitome in the high mark of what bushcraft knives are and what they've been for the last 20 years or so and it's just a gorgeous knife and the gorgeous shape and so I'm super excited to get out this spring do some backpacking do some camping and really put it to the test and see how it works out but we hope you enjoyed watching the video if you did make sure you give us that thumbs up and like and also subscribe to the channel and check out some of our other videos as well you can also follow us on Instagram at the art of craftsmanship to just see other things that I'm doing this shop I've try to put pictures up there all the time as well as sneak peeks of some of our upcoming videos as well so last thing we're going to do is go ahead and put it to the test [Music] you

Channel: The Art of Craftsmanship

Views: 230,706

Rating: 4.9474926 out of 5

Keywords: bushcraft knife, bushcraft, knifemaking, diy knife, O1 steel, scandi grind, scandinavian grind, handle making, handle shaping, how to make a knife, ray mears, woodlore, ray mears knife, glow in the dark, handle liners, black walnut handle scales

Id: P8DItiRmqK8

Length: 38min 21sec (2301 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 08 2019