Hi. I have a great and unique idea, which is turning your wooden
or plastic seat into a heated seat so your fragile buttocks can rest in peace. All we need is a heating
element which I'll extract from this broken hairdryer as these wires. [scrape, scrape, scrape] So here we are. I hot glued
these wires to my seat with their end connected to a cable where
I can just plug in to the wall. Okay there we are. (Plugs in) *seems fine so far* AUUAGH, OW S***! OW, F***! [spark] WHERE THE F*** IS IT?! [AAA!] S**T! * [SCREAMS] [cries like a b***h] [more screams] S***! (Unplugs) *Heavy breathing* F***! The whole seat is melte- O-OH S***! (more screams) In hindsight, mounting a heating
element with hot glue is a pretty dumb idea because the glue can
melt and stick somewhere else. And also, evidently, sitting on
super hot live wires is a terrible... ...TERRIBLE idea! As my butt can confirm. Where are you? But we shall not be discouraged! There are other heating elements we could use. Like
the electric oven heating element that we can.. ...unplug easily. The good thing about these is that
the live wires are hidden inside the element, so you won't get
shocked if you touch them. Also, in North America, they
run on over 200 volt AC so if I run it on 120 volt,
I should avoid super heating it. So... connecting it to Power... You won't get a shock although
it's drawing around 6 amps. Now I don't know what metal it's made of. I'm guessing iron, but it's hardly conductive. So it's safe to touch. [Sizzle] A-AH OWW! F***! Of course getting shocked is not the only concern. Obviously, this thing is a heating
element and can get very hot, even if I run it on 120 volt AC. And it's
pretty uncomfortable to sit on anyways, so I went and bought... some other heating elements. This one is pretty small. Maybe you can use it to heat a baby, or as intended, electric charcoal starter. DON'T USE IT ON BABIES, YOU IDIOTS! But this one is pretty nice, and fits my seat
well and is made for 240 volt, 3000 watts, which is very similar to my oven element. I will be running it on 120 volt AC, which
means four times less power or 750 watts. It can still burn, so I'm planning to reduce the power to it using a light dimmer. It says this dimmer is compatible
with incandescent lights as well as new dimmable lights, which makes me wonder, what is the difference between this new dimmer and old ones? We have one of these old dimmers- [POP] TWGH, S***! We have this old dimmer, which I'll try to probe using my *4 channel awesome new KEYSIGHT scope!* Which I'll also give away 5 of
them at the end of the video. One to a school and the rest
between my patrons and viewers. If YOU like to win *these* as well as tons of
other possible tools from Keysight Wave 2019, register from the link in the video
description. More about it at the end. And so, if I short these two contacts, the light turns on. Now if I try to probe this... Connecting the probe ground without shocking myse- Oh, actually, they share the same ground.
I don't need to connect the ground. Okay. Now, the yellow line is the input voltage
and the red is the output. And, if I turn it on, [Click] you see that when I slide the dimmer,
a portion of the output is cut off. It's here at minimum and here at maximum. And so, this reduces the effective AC
voltage output over a resistive load. But, things like LED lights are not
necessarily like a resistive load... ...although my LED light seems dimmable
and is working fine with this dimmer. ...flickers a little bit at low voltage. The old dimmer I tested is made of a Solid-State
or Silicon switch like a transistor that is a type of SCR or thyristor. And in this case,
it's a triac which is a bi-directional switch. Eh, too many words? Basically, it's an open circuit between
the two main terminals *until* you send a current into the Gate terminal. And then, it switches closed and stays
on as long as you run current through it, *even* after you remove the Gate signal,
and then it only turns off when you stop running current through it. It is bi-directional, meaning that the current can run through it
both ways and has to be triggered accordingly. So, this is the AC input and we have a
resistive load like an incandescent light and let's say, these are the trigger
pulses to the input of the triac. The output voltage is zero until the
edge of the trigger and then the switch closes and the output follows the input... ...until the voltage reaches zero, which means that the current through the resistor is zero. And it turns off and again turns on by the next edge of the trigger and follows the input again and... ...cycle continues like we saw in the scope. Now by moving the dimmer knob we are simply
moving the location of these trigger pulses that changes the on time of the triac
and controls the output power. So for example, if this pulse happens earlier, more of the voltage cycle goes out. Driving the inductive and capacitive loads is a whole other mess because their
current is 90 degrees phase shifted and turns zero when the voltage is at peak. Okay. Let's see what the new dimmer does differently. Does the exact same s***! So what?! It's compatible with the LED lights because the new LED lights are designed to be dimmable?! And this takes the credit?! What the he- [BANG] F***!! Don't kick live circuits because
they can kick back. Anyway, let's see what's the difference between dimmable and not dimmable LED lights. I'm gonna film different lights using my camera
at slow motion to see what difference we see. Here's the incandescent. As expected,
the brightness changes by the AC cycle. Here's the dimmable LED. It behaves
like the incandescent. And here's the undimmable light...and its
output light is constant. So the dimmable LED light is designed to
be dependent on the AC voltage amplitude. That's why we can dim it
with the change of AC voltage. But the undimmable LED
behaves badly on a dimmer because it's designed to have mostly
a constant brightness output independent to the AC voltage. So... ...for the most part, you see it
has a constant brightness, but at very low AC voltages, it craps out. Both have their own Benefits. One
provides dimmability, while the other one provides a fixed output brightness
independent to the input fluctuations. We are getting distracted. Let me hook up
the dimmer to my heater and I'll measure the voltage and temperature of the heater. Here we have voltage and temperature
and if we turn it on at minimal, it's only around 4 volts
and it heats up very slowly. But, we can ramp it up so it heats faster... ...and then... ramp it back down again. There you go. Very nice. Now we have an industrial
seat warmer for your thick buns! Ooh.. The dimmer box says it
can't handle more than 600 watts, but we might be running 750 watts
max. Oh well, I have a solution for that. There. I hot glued two pieces of stick
to limit how far you can turn the knob. We don't need more than half anyway. There. Now all you need is to shove this
thing in a cushion for comfort and sit on it. [Hehe] On the other hand, if somebody accidentally
breaks these sticks and set it to maximum, it could overheat the heater or the
dimmer and set the house on fire. We could design a very good system where a microcontroller monitors the heating element temperature and PWMs
the output power to control the temperature to exactly what you adjust using a
sophisticated and failsafe control algorithm. Who do you think I am?
Destin at SmarterEveryDay? All I need is one of these food temperature
sensors and tie it to my heating element. See, what I've done is that I cut the housing
and removed the glass and I also glued the piece of wire here to the
housing that can move now. And normally, this needle could move
freely when the temperature rises. But now, as the temperature rises, the
needle gets stuck to this piece of wire. So the temperature can't rise any
more because the needle is stuck. Is that- is that how it works? Because, I mean the needle is stuck
but the temperature could be rising. It's just not showing it. I think we need to do better. Here, I did one more thing. I added
a piece of wire here connected to the shaft of this thing, that's
also shorted to the housing. So now when the temperature rises,
the gauge shorts the housing to this piece of wire here and
acts like a thermal switch. Here's the plan: I have a normally closed relay that
drives the heater element and its coil is driven by my thermal switch and is
supplied through a diode, resistor and capacitor. I also keep the dimmer so I can adjust the rate of temperature rise. Now what happens is that when I
plug in the AC, the heater element is on and heats up, as well as my
thermal switch that's connected to it. When the temperature reaches the threshold that I set with my thermal switch, the switch closes and energizes the coil of the relay and the relay switches over and turns off the heater element. Now the heater cools down, and when it cools down below the threshold, this switch opens and de-energizes the coil and the relay switches back over and the heater turns on, heating back up again. So the temperature is controlled
around my set temperature. Change of plan. I'm gonna use a 12-volt wall
adapter to drive my coil because with the relay I have, that resistor
would turn into a light bulb. ...and we plug it in. (Plugs in) There we go. Now the heater is on and you
will see that the gauge will start rising. [Piano music] There we go. The switch is closed
and the heater is off. Of course there is a delay for the temperature
to get through to the thermometer. And so the temperature overshoots
a bit and drops down afterwards, at which point the thermometer
switch should open again. [More Piano Music] There, the heater is back on and
the needle moves back up again. Great! Now I can shove
all these into a cushion. There. Now we just plug it in. [groan...-] (explosion) Oh..! They sell seat warmers for cheap. Pff! Was this a good video? Did you learn something? THEN SUBSCRIBE for God's sake! I'm trying to beat this guy "Bobby
Duke" in subscriber count, but he keeps making this... awesome looking...
quality art...one better than the other. He's just a great artist!... and a friend. He's just... He beat me in less than two years! And for
what?! JUST SOME AMAZING CONTENT? I say it's time we respect our
elders, and subscribe to meeee- ♪ Giveaway Tiiiiiiiime! ♪ -eeee! And thanks to Keysight, I'll give
away one scope to a school in Croatia and a 3D printer; I buy them with
patron support, and 2 scopes to patrons at Patreon.com
and another 2 to the viewers. If you haven't signed up from my
previous Keysight Wave 2019 link, do it from the link in the description. And you may get a
top-quality scope like MIIINE!! In addition to my giveaways, the link
puts you in the earlybird Keysight Wave 2019 Giveaway Draw, where
they give away over $350,000 worth of test equipment to more than 100 winners,
from March 1st to 15th. Check it out! Just don't forget that in the
March period, you can also have one entry per day in the Keysight
Giveaway through wavekeysight.com. miiiiiine...! (beatbox outro) {Captions by Burgercat, Skylett
Official, AMO and TopDogAsh.} {Caption creator's message:
Subscribe to ElectroBoom and Pewdiepie! {Thank you for watching and have a nice day!}
Mehdi you are creative and make awesome things , in addition to you are out lovely idiot and you will all the time , no one can beat you :-) :-)
lol this guy is the best.
Those popsicle sticks...
The first 45 seconds are almost like something out of a Mel Brooks movie.
I love Mel Brooks movies.
Man i love how I too learned working with Electronics/electricity the same way , shocking and burning myself , blowing up things and failing miserably. Now I am on path of becoming a computer engineer but I still love Electronics and work with them as hobby, love you electroboom