Making a BT50 Tool Holder for SIP Jig Borer Tooling! | Shop Made Tools

how you going guys Kurtis from Cutting Edge  engineering today's job we're going to be   making an adapter to go from bt50 to our jig  borer tooling so that way we'll be able to use   all of the larger boring and facing heads that  came with the jig borers in our bt50 machines so   after we did the tour of our hydroptic number  six we did make mention that we were looking   for extra tooling and any accessories that come  with the jig borers so we did get a lot of emails   from all over the world about people that knew  of tooling that might be for sale or it was for   sale we did have someone in Australia reach out to  us and they had a massive variety of tooling and   accessories for the Jig borers so after a few phone  calls they sent me some pictures of what they had   and it was exactly what I wanted after the deal  was made I pretty much got straight in the car and   I drove 13 hours down there in order to collect  everything and I packed it all up put it in the   Ute and I brought it all home but there was a lot  more there than I actually first anticipated so I   ended up with basically an entire tool kit and  accessory kit for the hydropic machine in that   kit I did get the two rotary tables that come  standard on the machine plus the tooling cabinet   which is very very unique to the Sip machines I  got that and a very big variety of tooling and it   was all in pristine condition and we also had a  very generous viewer from Canada who did go to an   auction and he purchased some shelving in that  shelving was Sip tooling so we did end up making   a deal with that and he did ship it to us and  I'm very happy that some of the parts that he   had would mean that my boring and facing kit  could now be complete we also got a new optic   screen for our hydroptic and a lot of other  accessories thank you Michael for that you've   now completed one of my kits so we now have a very  big range of sip tooling but because of the unique   spindle nose that the hydroptic machines have  they don't fit conventional style machines   so this is your standard bt50 tool holder it  also runs the standard er40 collet system so   they are very Universal and versatile for what  you can put in them to use them and this is one   of our boring heads from the Sip tooling and as  you can see they do have a very unique style of   the way the tool is pulled up into the holder  so it does have a very long arbor in it it is   parallel there is also two flats machined in the  bottom as the drive and there is a tapered collar   that gets pulled up into the spindle to make  these extremely rigid one of the other methods   you could use is you could just put an er40  collet straight onto this arbor but that is   not going to hold it very strong and it's not  really going to be extremely accurate and you   can't actually buy a holder that will convert it  from something to the SIP tooling so we're going   to make our own and the main reason I'm making  the adapter is so I can use this this is a Wohlhaupter UPA 5 its range is about 25 up to 500 mm in  diameter and as you can see it is the hydroptic   number six style holder so I could go ahead and  pull this apart and modify it to suit a standard   bt50 holder I don't want to do that because it  is unique to the Sip machines I would like to   leave everything exactly the same I could also go  and buy a brand new Wohlhaupter boring and facing   head but they are extremely expensive they're  about $10,000 so the best option is to make up a   holder that way I can use this and all of my other  sip tooling so like all of my shop made tooling I   usually just wing that sort of stuff I don't have  any drawings I haven't really made a plan I just   know what I want at the end of it so that's how  we're going to do it and the piece of material   I'm going to be using it is a scrap piece of 4140  it is 120 mil in diameter and 250 mil long so before I   can start machining the new arbor I do need to set  the lathe up to the correct angle to cut the bt50 taper we'll ceramic it first so in order to make our new adapter as  accurate as possible I have machined   a piece of material down to 25 mil I  am using a brand new bt50 collet and   I've also put a live center  up the other end of the bt50 arbor I've then tightened that against it  so everything should be running parallel   and concentric I can now set the  compound to suit the taper of the holder spot on so I've got my compound set to roughly  8° I'm not going to trust the increments   that are machined into the top of the cross  slide because they are not correct they are   about point 2 of a degree out so what I'm  going to do is use my dial indicator from   the tool post over to the bt50 holder  I will then sweep across that face and   make adjustments by bumping the compound  around until it reads zero from one end to the other perfect and then I can lock down the compound  in place I'll re-sweep across that to make   sure tightening the bolts didn't adjust  anything once that's done we've got our   angle set there are many ways you can set  angles you can use a sign bar kit or you   can use a precision ground angle plate I find  doing it like this is just as easy so we've   got that dialled in to suit the taper now I can  take all this apart and put the material in the lathe so the first thing I'm going to do I am going to rough down the OD to within 5 mil of its finished diameter right so I've roughed down the OD I'm now  going to turn it around in the lathe I'm   going to drill and tap it to suit the drawbar  bolt and then we're going to turn the bt50 taper while I've got it set up like this I'm going  to drill a 14 1/2 mil hole down through the end   of it and that will be for the bolt which  is going to hold our boring head into our arbor now I'm going to machine down the area for the  length of the taper then I can machine it down   to its maximum diameter and then cut the taper  because I've got my compound set at 8° and my tool   post only moves in 15° increments I'm just going  to undo the tool out of the holder bring it up   to the face of the job and I'm going to make  that parallel so I can now machine into this corner righto now that I've got that area cut to size  I'm going to reset my tool and start cutting the taper finishing cut right so I'm just going to tidy up these sharp  edges and I'm going to hit that taper with a   scotch bright and see if I can get the surface  finish to brighten up a little bit so this end's finished really happy  with how that came out what I need to   do now is take it out of the lathe and  we need to set up the collar that fits   onto the boring and facing head and set the  compound to suit the angle of the inside of that so to dial in the inside angle I can't  just use my standard dial indicator I am going   to have to use a Mitutoyo test indicator cuz  it will reach down inside where the big dial   gauges can't do that I will need to set it  up on center height so I'm not low or high   if you're low or high you will essentially  be measuring the ramp of a tapered hole so   you don't want to do that it needs to be  on center height so I'm just going to use   a center drill in the chuck get the dial set  to the center of the drill and then I can put   the collar back in there and sweep across the  inside and set the compound to suit that angle so you might notice the dial is jumping that is because there is a relief machined in there so I've got that running pretty much spot  on it is to within point zero 1 of a mil I don't even think   you can measure that in banana increments  now what I'm going to do is take out the   collar get the material set back up in there  and we can start machining the other end so I've roughed this end down now I need to machine the taper now I'm going to use a 25 mil CR drill to drill   a clearance hole up the inside of our  adapter to suit the arbor for our Sip tooling now I'm going to counterbore the end of the  adapter to suit the collar on the bottom of the tooling so I still have a little bit of lathe work to do  but before I finish it off I am going to set it up   in the milling machine I do need to machine the  key ways for the drive dogs and the square drive   in the bottom of the adapter because I'm going to  be clamping it in a chuck I don't want to damage   a finished surface so once that's done I can  put it back up in the lathe and I can finish it off now that I've got the part set  up I'm going to come in with an   endmill and machine out the inside  to suit the square drive on the tooling now I'm going to mill the slots for the drive dogs  in the spindle unfortunately I can't use my indexing   head because the ID of the Chuck is just far too  small and I've only got about 10 mil of the chuck   jaws hanging on to the job and that's just not enough so I am going to have to set this up on a vee block brand new end mill it's already chipped oh wow wow hang on hang on hang on hang on [giggle] what's this get it get it ready stay get it good boy come on righto so that's all the milling done last  thing I need to do is set it back up in the   lathe to finish turning the OD to size but I will  be machining between centers because I don't want   to try and hang on to any of the machine surfaces  on the tapers cuz it would damage them so quickly   off camera I've gone ahead and machined up a drive  spigot so I can hang on to this without damaging it righto guys so our adapter is complete I'm  really happy with how it came out it looks   really good except I am going to send it out  to have a tufftride layer put on it just   like our V blocks our tool post and all of  our other shop made tools does look really   nice like this but I think it'll look even  better with a tough tried coating on it and   it's not going to rust so before we started  making the adapter I did weigh the piece of   material and it was 22.4 kilo after all of the machining it is now 7.9 kilo so it has lost 14.5 kilo of weight   so now that it's completed we're  going to check and see if it fits on the boring head so that's our adapter and our  boring head assembled really   happy with how everything  looks let's go test it in a machine righto for those who haven't seen  this yet this is our new to us   Zayer BF 3500 milling machine it is a bed  style machine so the bed moves left to right and the ram goes up and down and then in and out so I've had this machine for a couple of  months this is a short-term solution for the   end goal which is going to be our Huron milling  machine we do have quite a few jobs coming through   where the Huron would be perfect for that but  we found out the concrete floor in here is not   going to be good enough to support the mass of  that machine which means we are going to have   to excavate and put in a proper foundation for it  we were hoping to just bore in some piers set the   machine up and use it unfortunately that's not  going to work the foundation for the Huron is   going to be extremely expensive not only that it  is going to disrupt the workflow coming through   the workshop so I got wh that the previous  owner was going to be selling this machine it   was local so I was able to go and inspect it and  it was exactly what I was looking for to solve   my problem so not only was it local and it was  easy to get it here the cost of this machine was   actually a lot cheaper than just the foundation  so we could set up the Huron so for the time being   this was definitely our best solution it will be  a stepping stone once we do get around to cutting   a hole in the floor putting in a foundation and setting up the Huron we probably won't need this anymore so that fits in there really well it's nice and  rigid and it looks really good if you're wondering   why the adapter is so long it's because a lot of  the cylinder eyes and parts that we do are quite   thick and deep and running the extensions in the  bottom of the boring heads it's not very rigid   and you do end up having to do a lot of finer cuts  in order to get it to the right size just because   of the tool deflection where because I've made  that extra long we're going to be able to just   use a tool straight out of the side the boring and  facing head so that means we're going to get the   maximum rigidity out of the head and a really good  product at the end so now we've got it installed   let's test it on a few different spindle speeds  so we're going to start it off nice and slow at 53 RPM now we're going to increase it up to 246 RPM so far so good so we're going to wind it  up to 1030 RPM really happy how that's running there's no run out in it  everything is running nice and true there's no vibration righto guys so that fits really  well I'm really happy with this turned out   but you'll just have to stay tuned for a video  when we're using it thanks for watching just let me go [Karen] yeah go for it right where are we startin from [Laughter] I don't want to just leave the tooling on those machines I would like to use them in our BT50 machines saying machine a lot so I would like to use them in the machines that run the  bt50 [Laughter] [ __ ] [ __ ] and as you can see it does have the Sip style hold ugh [ __ ] it's not a holder and as you can see it does have the Sip style [ __ ] [Kurtis making car sounds] ah [ __ ] oh [ __ ] me [ __ ] [Karen] try again wait where are we going after that [ __ ] off train now I'm going to counter bore oh what are we callin this now I'm going to drill a 25 mil hold use ugh [ __ ] off bird so in order to make our new holder as accur oh wait holder adapter and 10 mil [air compressor] you'll probably get a better shot from over here [Karen] oh I thought you were gonna come up against this face oh actually good idea [Karen] oh thank you great idea Karen [Karen] really I don't know oh I was just going to check the chuck [Karen] oh yeah that's another option yeh [giggles] ohhh yucky Owwww little needles ohhh can I just check without the camera going just in case if you're wondering  why the what are we calling it stay Get [Karen] no [giggle] if you're wondering why the what are we calling it stay get it good boy what you got hang on are you thirsty have a drink [bird whistle] that was weird that was different yeah [chirp] they do they mimic though I read that somewhere do they yeah [bird singing]

Channel: Cutting Edge Engineering Australia

Views: 1,403,017

Keywords: cutting edge engineering australia, machinist in australia, machininst, abom79, cee australia, making a BT50 tool holder adapter for SIP jig borer tooling, making a BT50 adapter, making a BT50 tool holder, making a BT50 arbor, BT50 tool holder, sip hydroptic jig borer, jig borer, precision machine, jig boring machine, taper tooling, taper tooling for the mill, how to machine a taper, shop made tools, diy tool holder, diy heavy duty tool, shop made, heavy milling, how its made

Id: KswiJrYhEbY

Length: 42min 49sec (2569 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 27 2023