Repairing New Holland baler snapped crankshafts. Part 1

everyone welcome back to another video so this job that we've got to do this week uh where there a bit of All Sorts involved and it's taking a bit of organizing to get everything sorted because I need to Outsource a couple of things so we have this crankshaft to repair so this is out of a Bor and these claws here sort of go onto the journal like that and I think that feeds the straw I'm not quite sure how Baylor's work I've never really had much to do with a Baylor before but them claws go on there and I think them claws like feed the straw up into the chamber before it gets compressed into a bail so yeah that goes on there like that and then this bit goes on the top and clamps it on and then I'm guessing there's some kind of linkage that goes on there so like the claws are always facing in the same direction as it go around like that but then you can see with this one it's now in two Hales there's a common problem apparently with these this well I have two actually there's there's this one to do and then there's another one outside that's snapped in exactly the same place so yeah they just snap on the journal there apparently you can't buy these crankshafts anymore so you either get your crankshaft repaired oh you scrap your ba obviously I'm not going to weld that back together if I was in Pakistan or India or somewhere maybe would do and maybe would but I'm going to make a new journal for it so the whole lot is a fabricated piece these welded in that that's like channel it's not Channel actually it's that's been pressed and then it has a flat welded on there and then these journals are welded in the end like the sub shafts everything's welded together so I'm going to make the basic Journal myself the customers managed to find like the specifications from the manufacturer the proper drawing of of the journal so I can I'm going to make the basic Journal myself I want to make two of them for the other one and then I'm going to send it out to get surface ground cuz that's like a ground finish um and then they also need to be hardened hardened and tempered so on this technical drawing I've got it it states everything like your hardness and your material it's made of but then to it back together I'll have to make some kind of jig to hold everything together so I'll have to make a frame of some kind then I'll either Mill it through bar it through or land bar it through so both that end and that end are both dead in line with each other I'll worry about that later so what I'm going to do now is is make the journal I'm not going to go into too much detail about what material I'm using or the hardness or the tempering because it's not information it's ready available so s of keep that keep that bit of a secret started delivery round bar today there two bits two bits are 75 mil one is a different grade to the other so I think it's that top one that I need so we'll get all them separated and get out the bit I need and then we'll drop some some lumps off [Music] right so we've got little Band Saw Set up it's it's only one of them little cheap little ones but should do the job I have a big bandor as well but it's too big to to bring around just to cut two bits of bar off so I could do with one bit bigger than this but then again I haven't got anywhere to put it so [Music] so I got one cut off that took quite a while but now that I've got one cut off while this one's soaring through I can be setting that one up in the lath so since I moved this lath I haven't set it up properly so I haven't leveled it or set it up properly or anything so uh it's not 100% accurate at the moment which shouldn't really matter for this job anyway because it's getting ground to final size so as long as I can get it roughly somewhere near I've near enough for e so when you look on these on the good journals there's like a radius in there and then a a smaller radius on that corner now i' said I would have said that radius was too small that's why it snapped I've ground some tools to use to get that radius but I'm going to make that a bigger radius so that one will do that and then then I've ground that one as well which will do that radius in there it has to have them cuz I think it must seal up how that fits onto there and that fits into there if you can see and then there's a grease pipe on the top it must fill out with grease I think that's to like seal the grease in and there's space in there for a bigger radius so I don't see why I can't put a bigger radius so yeah I'll I'll machine them in now and then we'll do a little bit [Applause] for [Applause] all right so that's them two outer so radius is done so what I need to do now is turn this midle bit down so I need to swap that over to me to that one on the fatter radius [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] that [Music] w [Applause] [Applause] for right so we're getting there with this it's nearly down to size now I'm just going to wait let it cool down a bit before I finish it off CU it's quite hot and I'm just struggling well I can't get any further that way because touching there touching there so I think there's a little bit more to take out them radiuses and then there's it's like a mil well yeah 1.4 mil to take off the rest of it I know I keep saying it but I am not a machinist so if you're watching this thinking why is he doing it like that it's just cuz I'm sort of problem solving as I'm going along and just using the tools that I've got and like I say you can't buy a button insert to match the right radius I need that made it a lot easier so that's why I've had to grind them other ones um yeah we're getting there anyway getting there right so we're all machined down size with that now it's not perfect but it should be good enough well is good enough for for this job um there 70 mil on the drawing it says 70 mil with a h11 tolerance so when I look in me black book of engineering I've got h11 Toler tolerances I'm in within Tolerance on that one within Tolerance on that and then like I say this bit's getting ground down anyway that's a h8 tolerance on that so uh yeah we should be good and then put a bit of a shamer on on all them edges then like I say there's a bigger radius in there than what it had originally so that should be stronger so yeah we should be good with that so I need to get rid of this bit on the end now I think I'll turn it around and then see if I can use the pting tool I enjoy using this pting tool about as much as I enjoy painting things which is not very much so yeah well I measured it with a drro so if I Pat it off where that lip is there we should be bang on measurement which is should matter anyway within a couple of Mill because it sticks out you know there there's plenty there for it to get well round so yeah I don't think any measurement's really that critical AP from that bit in the middle which even then I don't think it's that critical cuz it's not like an engine that needs oil pressure it just has start bushes in and then grease that fills in so I maybe could have got away without getting it ground but I just I just want to try and follow the the drawing within reason see there's plenty of space in there for that radius that fits around there like it's supposed to do [Music] right that'ss that one done so I'll do the other one [Applause] now right so that's both of them machined up yeah I've left them half a m oversized in the middle so after they've hardened and tempered there's half a mil to grind back down to to get the final size yeah I'll get them wrapped up and then I've got the decent thick Car Bar Box put them in that and then get them sent off to get hardened and tempered for so FedEx have just been to collect the shafts so hopefully it won't be too long before I get them back so what I need to do now is make a jig to hold this in line so when I weld the new journal in I know that it's going to be absolutely dead straight and banging line so what I'm thinking of doing is making like a u shape out a box section and then make some clamps to clamp onto that journal and that journal at either end then I'll either have to line B it through to make sure they're both going to be in line with each other or I'll do it on the mill turn the mill on its side and Mill them through but we'll get the box section frame made first and cut out some bits of plate to make the clamps out of and then decide where to go from there [Music] [Music] so I've got that tacked together it's nice and simple just two bits of box tacked on so what I'm going to do now is I'm going to Flame cut some squares out this 40 mil plate and then one will be like the bottom half of the clamp and the other half the other bit will be that the top half so like I've drawn that as like a visual representation of what I'm going to do so yeah this bottom bit be welded onto the top of that box section and then this top bit will be removable be four bolts that bolt through it and then your end of the crank will go through there clamp it down and then there'll be one on one end of the box and one on the other so I'll swap over onto the gas torch and then we'll cut four bits of 90 by 120 we set up for that I'm just not quite sure whe they're going to have enough oxygen cuz we're about out [Music] [Music] right that's all them cut out I uh I joined them all together so I didn't have to do I didn't have to pierce through the plate every time so it just it just went all the way around and then up and down it's nice and hot as that now should have brought some burgers out had them cooking on top of there so yeah I'll just have to wait for them to cool down and then snip through Nick through them [Applause] so that's all I'm cleaned up out cleaned up nice of them so you need a very expensive plasma cutter to cut 40 mil as neat as that so yeah the reason why I've done six is because I'm not sure what I'm going to use whether I'm going to use the same setup for this one that comes out sideways for the new journal to clamp into so I thought if I did six and uh I've got them so yeah I need to drill them out I need four bolt holes Drilling in them now so I think I put them on the M machine and use the Dr the the grid function on the Dr to to get them all the same [Music] [Music] [Applause] so I've got D two drilled out at 12 mil now I've drilled these out this one out at 10.2 ready to tap a 12 mil hole now I've got Tony that I made the uh train Bonnet for gave me this tapping head the only thing is it's missing the like the bar that comes out the back to stop it spinning around um I can't use it in me drill press because it goes around too fast now I could use it in this but like I said it's missing the bar and i' need quite a long bar to reach from here all the way to the back of there so I think what I'll do is I'll just put the tap in the [Laughter] choke for [Music] [Music] [Music] e [Music] so I was just on the last one now I wasn't or the last plate uh I wasn't videoing this because I thought the other ones you know was going nice and smoothly anyway that first hole that I did I ended up snapping the tap off so I think I had a parallel sat underneath like that on that side and I think the tap may be caught on the parallel and jammed it up and that's why it snapped maybe so the rest of them I've just sort of gone gently and just gone halfway in with a tap and then at least I've got a thread starting um I was going all the way through with the tap on the other one but anyway we've got we got them far done so I'll have to see if hopefully I can get that tap out cuz it's is poking through the bottoms so yeah not to worry as this broken top I tried turning it I've got the M grips on the end and tried to turn it but obviously I think it's jammed up with ships that's why it's snapped and it just broke the end off so I think what I'm going to do now is I'm going to see if I can Pierce through it with a plasma cutter there's only like a 20 mil left inside so it's see it's below the surface there and then when you look underneath you can see see it's it's quite a bit it's like there so I haven't got much to pierce through so I'll have a go not end it well if I have to cut another block out for get it out of that tap without damaging I'll show you blasted a little bit of the hole at the other side damage the hole a little bit there but that shouldn't matter by the time I've count sunk it a little bit hopefully that should tap through again now I don't think I've damaged the hole too much right in the bar put the tap through it and see what happens right so I've got that threaded all the way through now there is a little bit of damage at the bottom of the hole but it doesn't really matter because we don't really need all that thread anyway 40 mil thick so you the do really need to be tapped all the way through but um so they're sort of tapped halfway through I'm going finish tapping them I'll leave that for now cuz I haven't decided what I'm going to do with that bit yet but if I need it it's there so I like it's good stuff as this actually I prefer this in the tub than I do in the squeezy bottle right so I've been got some bolts and I've got them bolted together now so I need to drill through them I think I'll drill in re it to 40 mil so that'll fit tightly on the bar [Music] bar um and then put them on there and use a baring bar to line them up and then weld them round [Music] so that's that drilled through I'll ream it through now at 40 mil uh I need to get some more coolant tomorrow the coolant pump does work but when I mov the mill it all ran out so that stuff's great but I don't think you're really supposed to use it as coolant so yeah I'll get some more tomorrow and then I can use that that's that first one bar through to 40 mil so now that'll fit in there like that so I have a 35 mil baring bar that I'm going to that I line bar them through once I was on there but if I can use the 40 mil to line them up then it'll save me a bit there sa me a lot of work lining the bearings up right so I've got some cut fluid now so got that mixed up and put in the mill so we can drill these other two through now I've got that one set up um I centered it got it lined up with the center but before I drill it with that I'm just going to flatten a bit off with an endmill cuz it's a bit of a ridge down I don't want the don't want that to R wand off sideways so it may be all right but I'll just put in the Chug so it does take much do it I'll just flatten a bit off first what [Music] [Music] right so I've got all three of them B through now and I'm going to use that baring bar to line up both them them to so I weld around there first weld that on then I'll tack them on then weld around them I want all the weld in and everything to be done on this before I even attempt to start line Bing it because I don't want the well to pull it out of line if I line bar it and then add more to it welding onto it it will uh especially on box section it will pull it it could bow the Box section or pull it out of line so you want to get everything welded on first so yeah we add them on and then I need to work out where this one's going to go right so I've got the crankshaft put in here now obviously it's not in properly because they're not boil out to fit yet but I've just got some longer bolts in and just clamped either end down I was wanting to put some extra bracing in and I couldn't really picture how it went together and where where I could put bracing uh without it in so I've just got it in there so I could put some bracing in here I couldn't really put anything in that end because of where this is so I'm not sure whether I'm going to bother putting any in or not also what I wanted to know was what I need to know is where that block is going to go so I have another technical drawing of of this piece here which tells me that there's 140 mil between this Center and that Center which also must mean there's 140 mil from from that Center mark up to that Center Mark so it has like 140 mil swing and then there's three journals so they're in like thirds so I've drawn that in on shape so I've got me uh that's a 280 Circle so I got me 140 across there which means I've got 70 M offset from the center of that to the center of that and then I've got 121.2 far far offset that way so so yeah I know that that's 70 mil from there and then one to one from there to there that's when that is when these two are horizontal so what I'm thinking is if I drill or if I cut two bits of plate with two o's drilled in them like that at 1 140 centers at 40 mil hole drilled and room to 40 mil same as what what these are so I can put my baring bar back through there put the two bits of plate on put the B through through the two bits of plate and through that and then that'll get me a 140 swing and then I just need to make sure that it's going to be 70 mil Above This Center so then when I put the whole lot on the mill machine or however I bar out that I can go off me 70 mil and Me 1 21 measurement from Center there if that makes sense it doesn't really matter where that is as long as it's in the 140 you know the swing it just makes it easier if I know exactly where it is so then I can use the drro to measure 70 mil on on 21 if that makes sense hopefully so I have these plates already um I made these for when I was doing them JCB head stocks so if I tack these back together then I've only got to drill and R one whole 40 mil 140 M centers then I can use that use that to go on there with another bathroom to locate that in the right swing so put that through there just line that up tighten them back together and then we'll drill the hole through it [Music] right so I think I've been overthinking this a little bit uh I don't need to worry about that offset if I just put the bars on Center with each other and then all I've got to worry about is moving from there 140 mil out when a machine that one through so I've cut a bit of box section the same length as them and then another bit for it to sit on so if I if I tack that on and then I maybe just try the crank in it again just I should be right at that yeah just mean the the crank is clocked around at a different angle to what I had it at to start with as long as that 140 is right from there to there which is that's 140 mil so Sur we can't be wrong then I've got my measurements from that end to there to make sure that's going to be sort of in the middle of the journal then doesn't matter too much that they're not true because like I say when I'm machine it out there're 40 mil and that needs to be 55 that needs to be 55 and that needs to be 60 so there's plenty of Tolerance if everything's not quite lined up when it comes to baring them through so yeah we're good at that it's uh it'ss in how it's supposed to do well not yet but it will do so now that that's lower as well it's clocked that round a bit more so I have space now I can put a an extra brace across from one side to the other and then takes any Flex out of the box section whether I might put some braces in here as well to brace this but I just don't want any Flex in it at all because you know how much weld pulls and if when I weld that journal in I don't want the weld to pull sort of The Jig out of shape yeah I'll get that welded round weld this extra bit of box section in as a brace and then see what else we need right so that is that all welded up so I can't decide whether to put any more braces in here or probably better with some so yeah it just needs barring through now so you might have noticed these boxes in the background so I've bought an S power line bar and setup so the first job I'm going to do with that is to bar that jig through now I got it came with a 50 mil bar and I also got a 35 mil bar so I'm going to use a 35 mil bar to to Bor it through why i i b them through at 40 mil if you're wondering but yeah I'll leave that till part two so pretty excited to have a go with it I'm quite impressed with how how well it's made there's another sh baring there and then bearings and Alignment cones anyway I'll show you that more next time that's the other Crank that snapped so they're both snapped in exactly the same place both on the same side same place so yeah I think we'll leave it there for for part one I've just had an email through to say that the journals have been hardened and tempered so they're ready to send back it's another bank hity weekend so that's another three days I've got to wait yeah hope you enjoyed part one and stick around for part two so yeah thanks for watching and I'll see you next time

Channel: Snowball Engineering

Views: 45,629

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Id: FxT4B2-i_G0

Length: 60min 30sec (3630 seconds)

Published: Sun May 05 2024