Machining A Hexagonal Bore .

[Music] [Music] oh [Music] well good day max again welcome back to the shop welcome to 2024 so um just making a plug gauge here and uh that's going to be so we can size our hexagon shaped hole that we can brooch or that we're going to brooch in this aluminum hand wheel so what I'm making here is is a hexagonal plug gauge and we'll use that when we broach the hexagonal hole in this hand wheel so this is what the hand wheel fits on and this part here is going to be a little bit unwieldy to jiggle around in the milling machine um for a test fit so hence the little plug gauge so this is our setup in the uh rotary table here so the parallels give us clearance underneath the Hub of the wheel so when the Tool breaks through we don't start cutting into the rotary table and we have a couple of shims in and that stops the takes the rock out of the hand wheel before we clamp it down so as far as getting the U hand wheel centralized on the rotary table I've got this set it's a sterup set um 25r contact Point set and it has this really w one down the bottom it looks it's a slightly bigger version of that one there and it's ideal for this sort of thing so all I do is um just concentrate on four areas it's the same as uh when you're in dialing in a four jaw Chuck so if we look around here we're sort of hovering Min -5 to zish so we'll come around half a turn and we're sort of hovering sort of - 5 to0 zish over here we're sort of hovering around between 5 10 oh between 5 and 15 average out at 10 we'll come around the other side now this side has a bit of a hump in it there so we'll just so we're about 10 and we're about 10 just before the hump so that's just average the whole thing out and makes it easy to do otherwise you're going to be chasing your tail as these are will not be round they be egg shaped whatever so that was that so this little elephant's foot um contraption that I have on here obviously it just unscrews now these are being St it's made for ster dial indicators uh my dial indicators a mcer made in England and it does fit them however it does not fit my Mitch Toyo indicators as they have a slightly smaller thread on it so to a useless information but they're quite a good uh you don't use them very often but sometimes when you got to well when you do you do right let's get our get set up and get our hole drilled so just before we centralize the rotary table I just want to give ourselves a bit of a flat area to work to and also get rid of this drill divot here now this is what we did when we first looked at the job we're looking at the roughness and there's a bit of a hexagon outline around the hole so we weren't sure if that was still like a sand core or something and there was actually a hexagon hole in there but not to be so um yeah we need to clean this up and and making it flat there when we go to broch it gives The Broach uh a flat area to start on okay that'll give us some um cleaner edges to work too now so we'll get the tool set up and we'll drill it then bore it then broch it so this is my preferred method of indicating the rotary table into the exis of the machine mag base just on the rotating well rotating on the chu and we're just indicating into the quill and I find that's the most accurate way to do it rather than indicating off the little hole in the Rory table and like something like a last word or something held in a Chuck or in the quill that's how I do it okay we'll start off with the spot drill uh only reason I'm using my biggest one is cuz it gets little use and more opportunities I use it I I use it you know sometimes it's too big for some things [Music] so [Music] so we'll poke this 15 and 1 half millimeter drill through prior to setting up the boring head that's just in a m table to R8 adapter and we swapped over and put the old tangent engineering quill wheel back on the bridge Port as when you're drilling it's way easier than uh these [Music] things it with three okay we'll get our boring head set up and we'll do a clean up pass through the bore well I had the GoPro running as a bit of a backup it just conked out and got a bit hot shut down it's not even a hot day what are we 34° 94 in Fahrenheit H still it is summer so we need to get a size here so we so we sort of know what's going on where we are so we're aiming for 17.1 16 16.38 okay minus 16.38 gives us 72 to come off the diameter divide by 2 36 mm we got to shift the head over so what I can never remember with this boring heads I don't use it very often I can't remember if it reads off diameters or radius so I'll just put a indicator on it so we know where I'm going .1 23 six on there yeah 36 we'll take it all them one it okay right bit of wilsy special Source away we [Music] go right size check that's not bad seems pretty parallel too 17.1 so we can get um our broaching tool set up now and start our cutting out the hexagon so I've just remeasured that b 17.12 to 17.13 which is the same as the our hexagonal gauge there so I measured that with a telescopic gauge and micrometer so we're bang on on size there just a point to note there when I did bore that hole my target boring size I put at 17.1 and then we just took the cut through if often it's what I try and do is just go that fraction amount under and and more often than not you can get that last little bit with a spring cut but it's wasn't necessary and this you know it all worked out fine in this case so this is the hexagonal hole that we have to Broach so the width of the flat is 9.84 MM and our tool is 9.5 mm so that'll give us a side shift off center of1 192 mm uh either side of Center and of course when our t uh when our tool touches the bore of the hole we're going to be at the correct depth this is the uh tool that we're going to be uh using it's a bit of Sutton m42 Cobalt it's just a brand new blank I had sitting uh in the drawer and it just goes into this holder which it's a blind holder and we grip this in the collet Chuck shouldered so it can't migrate up the collet Chuck I don't think it would anyway uh I haven't really done anything to the end of it except the very last bit there I've just touched up on um a lapping disc that I have that's set at a 5° angle so we'll try it we'll see how it goes okay we need to get the front face of the tool indicated in parallel with the axis of the table of the machine so we're just going to use a small grinding Vice can't get the Allen key in the hole put some fur around it son okay so we'll get the indicator set up and we can indicate this face here and should put our tool in the correct position so that there will be good so I lock the quill put the brake on the quill and it'll it'll still have minimal movement but it's it's not much at all th out there but if I go to the edge of the tool half a th that's um can't lock the Quil solid or the Bridge Port will always have that little Fleck of movement there so right okay we blued up the entrance to the hole with a sharpie so we'll just come down and Plunge in gingerly till we hit the OD of the B hopefully so I don't know how this Tool's going to perform we may have to pull it out and modify it but we'll see how we go for maybe a bit of lube bit of WD it'll play Havoc with the Sharpie marker though so looks to be all right so we'll go a bit more okay I'm going to stop there and I'm going to go around 180° then I can get a measurement so it looks like we could have gone a fraction more but uh I don't want to overcut it so you can just see the line of Sharpie in the Middle where we haven't cut it yet and interesting to note you can see the push off from the top of the Sharpie to the top of the bore we got a straight line across so we are getting a a little bit of um deflection in the tool as to be expected so if that becomes too much of a problem what I'll do is I'll increase the angle on the back of the tool so in fact I might just do this other side and then I might just do that just to give it a sharper um angle couple of th go till we're at the same point as we were on the other side and Final Cut okay so it looks like we're going to have to modify the tool a bit you can see that Gap in the middle slowly increasing now that's because I at this stage I don't have any clearance on the uh rear on the well on the front face of the tool so it is causing a bit of push off so what we might do we'll turn it I've released the brake so we'll have a look at this tool what I'm going to do is increase this angle here bring it right up up and I may have to grind some clearance in this area here which I don't really want to do but I think I'm going to have to do it let just scull up a bit of this out so we're not getting the the the the same rub off effect um what's happening as the tool goes in the down to the ball you get your initial push off and that gets the further the tool goes down the ball that gets exaggerated further so you end up with a slightly wed shaped bore hence yeah you can see the narrowing effect when you look in there so I'll pull this tool out we we'll rejig it and we'll have another crack okay if I can just interrupt the proceedings for a split second while I'm over at the tool and cut a grinder grinding the new tool or modifying the tool for our slotting head which is in the next video I'll release this video and the next video at the same time so you don't have to wait the postman came so we got a good one oh we got I'll rephrase it we've got a boring one and we've got a really cool one so let's just I don't normally do this on camera but let's just have a bit of a a look as I thought this was this cool one is is a cool one let's come and have a look so we'll get the boring one out the way first I've been watching this for a long time this has been on eBay for the last couple of years and it's a cross slide lead screw and nut for a jfm lathe so I just it's a spare one for my lathe now over here I cannot even buy a piece of bronze that big for the price that I paid for the whole thing so I've been looking at it it's been sitting there for a couple of years I had it a marked and I went back the other week and had a look see if it was still there and it was so I grabbed it the only difference is on mine the nut is split for the adjuster which wouldn't be a problem to do with this one so spare part for the jfm it could even be MAAC this I don't know little parts are the same JMT was copied off MAAC few little minor differences but uh it is a telescoping one for the tape turning attachment so we'll put that one away now now for the the cool one and Ian I've got your file handles here too mate and they're about to be fitted to files but check this out this is from a guy named Gary over in in America you want to see this handwriting how cool that so that'll go up in a special place on the wall so in here we have one really cool oh excuse me file handle that Gary's made with this emblem on the back it's come at the right time all this has come the timing could not have been better and if you think you've seen file handles before check this out how is that even has a little um raise section on the end of the feral so I'll zoom in on this one how's the how's the workmanship that's gone into that very impressive so yeah a couple of Ripper file handles but check this out I'll Zoom you in on this one how's that for a sexy looking scribing tool very impressive so also in the box we have a couple of Gary stickers of Emil I don't think he has a YouTube channel but I'll investig that so we'll get a couple of these stickers up on the wall and this cutie here mini NOA and it's the one I like too with the adjuster at the base actually this might have both all it has it's got fine adjust top and bottom wow so yeah it's all seen NOA indicators or most of us probably have uh this will be a uh great addition as I find using my standard ones very tight to get in some a lot of a lot of places so we're going to use this in the remaining part of the video and to go where it something I've never ever had a brand new one of before in my life all mine are bustard ass old ones so that's a sh's half th graduation uh half th graduation uh DTI lever type DTI so thank you very much um mate this is truly appreciated so we're about to use these ones here now that's that's really good never ever had a brand new um yeah leave DTI before my life so good stuff right let's go again so incidentally I did forget to mention in the video where I was grinding the um the tool that was a 150 grip sold as a diamond CBN wheel it's one of those cheapest from China's and did an impressive job ripping the material off and I I did some carbide on it the other day and uh it ripped it off no worries and then of course you have no problem smoothing out the edges with the diamond laps so right let's crack on just put a bit of WD on the tool oops bump the camera and I had a friend over the other day we were looking at the setting on my camera to hopefully stop that uh stop it drifting from side to side like it has been doing quite often so we'll see in the latter half of this video how the phone goes let me have a look at that looking good I'm going to have to reset the zero on our depth but we'll just go another couple of th fraction more okay I'm going to reset a zero on our new indicator now so this is so easy with the adjuster on the base so reset zero it's also got the adjuster at the top as well so I got the best of both worlds so we'll run round we'll rotate round now we'll do the other slots and and this is where we pull up at then we'll have a measure so I'll index around another 60° so that'll bring us to 300° on our dial lock off the table and Final Cut which is uh right there okay we'll back her off rotate it round which is there okay it's not cutting but we're at the final depth we did the other ones too so we got to keep going around till we match all these depths okay 60° there I can feel it cutting on the bottom of that one so it's pretty close to our original it's probably our first one we did okay we're at depth rotate around another 60° riveting stuff isn't it coming up to depth now and final right there Final Cut okay so I'm going to rotate this around 180° and we're going to use this area and this area I'll run the tool back through this area then we'll get a definite size on our width which will be about right there so this tool should go down there without cutting which it does okay I'll get a measurement see our gauge wants to go in across these two Flats here right at the beginning and that that would have been our first original Cuts with the old tool we'll get a definite measurement now and then we we'll know how far we have to go 16.85% mm to come out so we divide that by two gives us 135 mm to come out I'll write that down 135 mm divide by 25.4 just over 5 th so we'll take another five th out of them all and then we'll remeasure all K that's a full trip around so we' got to be getting close it wants to start let's get another measurement we are 1707 so that's 025 to come off in millimet or an Imperial uh divide by 25.4 close enough to a th so I think I think we'll take uh we yeah we'll take one th off either side and that should give us a bit of clearance okay so I've just been around and taken uh one more thousand of an inch off off either side and we're feeling now where we need to [Music] be with regards to the fit there I might still do that side shift it's like we're knocking on the door right here or I might just do actually do that with a file let me have a measure okay so I did a side shift on either side it doesn't take anything off the width it just nips off those Corners that was only a minor was uh yeah 0.192 mm of side shift so that did the job our part slips in beautiful just feels like a couple of th clearance which is desirable this is just what we want perfect the Finish inside came out really well we'll get you a closeup of it so we can quickly and easily check the play with our new toy our new ner and indicator and we have 2,000 of an inch clearance which is perfect right so out it comes let's have a look at the ball I'll give it a clean up first so here's a shot of the B came out very well so I think we may have cured the problem with the camera drifting from side to side hopefully as I said I had a friend come over yesterday and we went through some of the settings on the camera and turned a couple of things off on the camera so we'll see how this video edits and hopefully we've um cured it oh well that's that another another job bites the dust Another one out the door and we got to have a bit of a play with our mini NOA that was a I really enjoyed using that it's um going to be so handy to have so oh we better go and have a test fit on the real part hang on doesn't fit no just kidding fits perfect absolutely spot on so this is part of the Traverse mechanism of a World War II and tank gun all right we'll finish this one up here so cheers thanks for watching um yeah that was something a bit different that I don't um I don't really do a great deal of slotting you know it's um it's a very timec consuming process but uh sometimes you got to you got to do it so cheers hopefully see you in the next video well you'll see me I won't see you

Channel: Max Grant ,The Swan Valley Machine Shop.

Views: 71,625

Keywords: tool post grinder, internal & external lapping, jig grinding attachment, lathe, machine shop, milling machine, tool & cutter grinding, machining videos, home machine shop, toolmaking, lathe maintenance, ID grinding

Id: s2j0U5zsZwA

Length: 41min 59sec (2519 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 09 2024