Making a $5000 Mosaic Damascus Cleaver

oh yeah this video is sponsored by surf shark VPN hey guys Jesse here today I'm going to be building a mosaic deasus Chinese Cleaver I've never made anything quite like it so stay tuned to see how it turns out look at how bent that is that's honestly kind of impressive I'm starting off a little bit different than all my other Damascus patterns I'm cutting my bars into 6in pieces rather than 4 in pieces imagine how long that would have taken with a an angle render one of the reasons that I wanted to start off with more steel is because Mosaic Damascus generally requires many more Forge welds than other kinds of Damascus for this pattern I think I'm going to have to do 5 to six separate Forge welds and every single Forge weld means a loss of material due to scale or cutting off the dirty ends oh my gosh as you can see on my iPad here I actually have the entire pattern already planned out I know what I'm going to do for every separate Forge weld but the thing is I am not a master of Mosaic just yet I'm actually not a master of anything so my drawing could be very different from what I actually get because this is a mosaic this first Forge world is so important if any flaw makes itself into the Billet when I'm drawing it out it's going to get magnified 100 fold later on what you see me doing here is everything in my power to ensure that that won't happen I'm grinding the faces to the same level I'm welding the side pieces so they don't bow out and later on I'm going to dip the entire Billet in some quench oil so that I get that nice thick layer of soot to ensure that no oxygen can get in between the pieces [Music] one funny thing about the blad smithing Community is that everybody has their own processes that work in their own way one example of this is just simply setting up the Damascus bullet there's a couple bladesmiths that don't clean off the rust or any of the pickling before they stack them there's also people that clean everything meticulously wash everything with acetone and the thing is even though their processes are so different the end result that they get is usually pretty similar so it doesn't mean that one person is right and one person is [Music] wrong not over there it's our first sper today's video is sponsored by surf shark bpn according to this chart provided by YouTube most of you guys are above the age of 24 so it's probably a good idea for me to explain what a VPN does whenever you surf the web anyone can come in and see your data especially on public Wi-Fi there's very little shielding very little encryption nothing what surf shark does is they act as the middleman for your data they encrypt it before anyone can come in and steal it this all comes with a pretty useful side effect you can set your location to be anywhere VPN server is if you want to watch the show Fierce creatures from 1997 on Netflix and you're in the US you can say your server to be the UK and there it is you're basically a phantom teleporting around the world to suit your own selfish needs if that all sounds enticing and you want to start protecting your internet experience s shark has a special holiday offer for you if you use the code Jesse who at the link in the description you get up to 6 months of VPN service for free and free is the best price possible so you should do it thank you sir shark and now back to the video after setting the initial welds on my first Billet I'm actually going to be doing something that I have never shown on this channel I'm going to be using my homemade squaring Dy and forging down the corners of the Billet what this does to the pattern is it drag drags those outer pieces sort of closer to the center so that later on when I go to stack it it'll look like a bunch of W's rather than a bunch of straight lines thinking about it now I'm actually amazed that these squaring dieses have made it this far I've used them on around three or four separate projects now and they haven't shown any signs of wanting to fall apart once I'm done with the squaring dies it's back to the flat dies to draw this buet out to a fairly long length I want to be able to cut it into at least six separate sections if you've been watching my channel for a while you'll probably be surprised to hear that I haven't complained about the temperature at all yet and that's because I'm filming this in December and in Arizona it's only 60 to 70° which is kind of [Music] perfect once the Billet is about 2 ft long I take it over to the envil and I straighten it a little bit but then I take it back to the Press on the big flat thighs and I get it perfectly straight with the Billet all forged out and pretty much perfectly straight it's time to let it cool in some still air usually at this point in the process I would put the Billet in the post Vie and I would take an angle grinder to it to get off the scale but I actually have a new tool that's perfect for this job and that's my Surface grinding attachment from Bowmont Metal Works before I use it though I Mark all the pieces so that I know which order that I cut him in the belt that I'm using is a slightly worn 80 grit belt and I'm only taking passes of around 5,000 of an inch at a time this is my first time using the surface grinder and I don't want to bite off more than I can shw with all the welding surfaces now clean I take it over to a 120 grip belt on the flat platin so that I could get the pieces ready for a test etch this test etch is actually pretty important because it ensures that my pieces are oriented correctly I know that I already marked the pieces earlier but 5 extra minutes is a really small price to pay for 100% confirmation there oh yeah perfectly lined up now that all the pieces are oriented correctly and perfectly clean I weld together my second Billet for my second Forge W one funny thing that happened off camera is that I accidentally flipped one of those pieces 180° and because the pieces aren't symmetrical it actually makes a difference this is what I like to call a happy accident because even though it's objectively a mistake it made the pattern look cooler in the end so I'm not going to stress too much about [Music] it the next step for this pattern isn't simply to just draw it out and cut and stack it it's actually to make it into a square and then resquare it this will tilt the pattern 45° and make it a lot more interesting to look [Music] [Music] at my goal for res squaring was to have it at a perfect 45° but if you're looking at it from this angle it actually looks like my Billet wasn't even score in the first place so I think I ended up tilting it 43 or 44° this didn't end up changing too much but this would be one of the things that Separates Me from say a master smith a master smith would have much better angle control and they wouldn't have something like this pop up if you've been following my channel since the summer you'll probably realize that I haven't posted in 4 months that's because I've been studying out of state at the University of Michigan trying to get my electrical engineering degree it's definitely a lot of fun to be at school but that's not to say that I didn't miss this a whole lot back to the task at hand you can see that I put some stops into the press That's because I want to forge this out into a long Square bar the next step is to actually cut it into four pieces and do something called a four-way [Music] weld that's a good sound to hear I don't know if you heard it but there was this really weird sound coming from my press right when I was about to finish drawing up the bar at this point I still don't know what it is but all I know is that turning it on and off fix the entire thing if you look super closely you'll see the piece that I accidentally flipped around after I cut the Billet into four equal siiz pieces it's time for another test edch this test edch is pretty crucial because I can sort of arrange this build in any way that I want these pieces aren't exactly 100% symmetrical so I can sort of play with the layout and create a new pattern let's get this surface ground because this is a four-way weld only two of the four sides of each piece need to be cleaned up this is one of those things that helps me save a little bit of extra material every Forge Weld and that compounds and leaves me with a lot more steel than I would have otherwise with the forge heating up again it's time to throw the squaring dies back onto the Press because this is a four-way Weld and I need to put pressure in two different axes the squaring dies are the best dieses to set the weld [Music] with I'm like always the first welding pass is really quick and I don't want the abet to lose much heat at all after this first pass I let it sit in the Forge and soak for a little bit longer than usual because I want some good cross boundary green growth because the goal for this pattern isn't for it to be a traditional explosion pattern I'm actually going to be res squaring it again this will make the pattern go from something like this to something like [Music] this this Forge World is very similar to the last one so I'm not going to show you too much of it but as you can see here I'm forging it on the bias res squaring it and drawing it out back into a square [Music] bar it's a lot of Steel for one knife oh my God I got it exactly that is that is one line that is not two lines I'm kind of a genius with this next test Ed you can really start to see what the final pattern is going to look like what do I think about this I think I am terrible at judging 45 degrees I'm always off by like two or three degrees after finding an orientation of the pieces that I like it's time to take it back to the welder and weld up my third to last Billet every single weld that I've done in this channel so far has been with the Lincoln flux core welder I swear that this summer I'm going to get myself an actual good MIG welder I'm honestly kind of sick of throwing disgusting beads purely because my welder is just not that good all I have to do for this Billet is to draw it out and get it ready to cut up into another four pieces for the final four-way all right this is the final test etch for this pattern oh yeah the final step for this pattern is one more four-way weld because this is the final Forge weld I'm taking a little bit of extra Care on this Forge weld than compared to the other fourways I'm actually going to be running a weld bead around the entire Billet rather than just the sides this means I'll have to grind it off later but it'll Ensure that I get perfect Forge welds as you can see here I didn't set this with the squaring dies but because I welded around the entire buet there's a little bit less chance of it falling apart on me so I'm just using the big flat dies after two or three Heats of gentle drawing out I take it over to the post Vice and I use an angle grinder to grind out all of that mig weld because I'm going to be cutting this into tiles later and because Chinese Cleavers are known for how wide they are I actually need to make sure that this buet is very rectangular by the time I'm done with it I think the dimensions were around 2 and 1/2 in wide by 1 and 1/2 in thick with the Billet finalized it's time to let it cool down slowly overnight in a bucket of amulite this will make sure that it is super soft and ready to be cut into tiles I want a 35° angle which means this has to be at 125 to cut the tiles I set the angle of cut on the band saw to be 35° the only reason that I needed that 125° angle is cuz I had to draw the lines on the villet itself I don't know what to expect this test DCH is on the very end of the bar so it's a little bit distorted but as you can see it looks quite good this is actually a perfect time for me to explain why we need to tile in the first place this is what this is what we had going into the vermiculite what we're doing is cutting tiles so that we expose the pattern on the inside of the tiles and then we're flipping them and Welding them together so that we get a Billet that looks like this with the pattern showing on the outside is what the top down view looks like after the tile weld this is what it would look like if we did no tile weld just a bunch of lines as I was cutting the tiles I realized that there'd be no way for me to grip the Billet in the visce as I was cutting in the last tile so I welded on to sacrificial piece of Steel so that I could cut that last tile 1 2 3 4 5 because I already surface ground the Billet there's only a couple faces that I had to clean up on the grinder the belt that I used for this was a really dull 120 grip belt the last thing that I had to do before I could actually do the tile weld was to ensure that all of these tiles were the exact same height I decided to do this on the surface grinder but honestly the best way to do this is just to make sure that you cut them to the same thick at the start what I'm doing here is I'm cutting some sheets of sacrificial sheet steel these will sort of be the bread of the Mosaic Damascus sandwich these will help ensure that no oxygen gets into the Billet when I weld it it's probably pretty obvious from how I'm willing it but this is the first time I've ever used a sheet metal cutter every other time I've just used an angle grinder because that's what I've had I actually want these pieces of sheet steel to weld themselves to the Mosaic so I'm taking them over to the grinder and I'm cleaning them off with the d 80 grip belt to set up my Mosaic Damascus sandwich so to speak I first tack every single tile so that they're as close to each other as I can get them and then I actually use the welder and I weld around the entire Billet every single seam is going to be covered in weld this way zero oxygen can get into my Billet obviously because I welded around the entire build already there was no point in me dipping it in the quen oil here but honestly it just acts as a really nice backup for if I left a gap in the Weld and I needed something to stop the oxygen from getting in I'm trying to baby this weld I want to treat it like it's going to fall apart at any moment so I take one light past and then I throw it right back in the Forge for a really long soak with the forge welds now pretty much set I take it over to the F Vice and I grind off every single little bit of weld I can find on the side I do not want some mild steel to be in my Edge with the size of the Billet now clean it was time to draw it out a little bit more and then get it ready to actually start forging the blade [Music] the Billet was pretty solid for the most part but there was this one problem area where one of the corners of the tiles didn't really want to weld and so I took it over to the grinder and I ground through that little dlm this is going to be 8 to 8 and 1/2 in Blade although now that I'm looking at 8 and a half is kind of long for a Cleaver so I think I'm going to do 8 in all right it might look like cheating when I cut off material that I don't need but honestly this material is so time consuming to make and so valuable that I didn't want to risk forging down a tank for it now to cut off that small rectangular section I could have probably just use an angle grinder but I was looking at the side of my band saw and I realized there was actually a table so I hooked it up and I just turn into essentially a porta band just a bit of cleanup to make the integral bolsters on this blade I'm going to be doing a technique that I learned from Salem stob in Washington and that is making Forge welded bolsters this is a tile of the same Mosaic that I made the blade out of and what I'm doing here is I'm grinding it into a really nice rectangle that later I can cut into two and Forge weld on to the plate one of the defining features of a Chinese Cleaver is just how wide it is the Billet that I was working with was only 2 and 1 12 in wide at this point so I had to find a way to creatively give it an entire extra inch of width I definitely made a mistake there and I tried to Drought the entire blade at once and that actually kind of messed up two of the tile welds so I flexed it up took it to a hand hammer and reclosed those Forge WS it'll actually be a recurring theme because those two Forge welds at the edge were really finicky and I had to keep going back flux them Hammer them fix the forge Wells and then draw it out more I discovered that the best method of giving this blade its width was simply a crosspin hammer the Press is good and all but it's Overkill it's like trying to kill a bird with a cannonball and I don't even know if the cannon ball will hit the bird I think it's fine I'm just going to flex it again just for good measure I see a lot of comments asking me what flux does flux actually does a multitude of things the first of which is forming a glassy layer around the steel so that the stuff underneath can't oxidize the second most important is that it liquefies scale so it can sort of repair pair broken Forge welds it can seep into that Dam liquefy the scale and then later you can just blast it out with a hand Hammer the thing about flux though is that it actually eats through the side of your Forge so I only try to use it when I'm trying to fix the forge weld as opposed to when I'm setting it in the first place hand sanding this is going to take seven years seven seven entire years with the blade mostly forged to shape it was time to straighten out that tang and get ready to forge weld my bolsters the bolster material is pretty much ready all I have to do is cut it in half with the band saw before I can forge while the bull to the blade I have to make sure to grind through all of that sheet metal on the side of the blade I also have to make sure that those contact areas are as flat as possible I do not want any Oxygen to get in between my bolsters and the blade ready you start seeing the pattern around like here but there's still stuff I have to grind through here and all on this side once I ensured that I had clean material un clean material I took it over to my welder and I just tacked those bolsters on I didn't weld all the way around all I did was tack it I know that earlier mention that I didn't want to use too much flux but these bolsters kind of have to be Forge welded perfectly so I flux them and I dip the entire thing in oil for all of the forge welding I just used the hand Hammer I didn't want to use the Press because anything trapped in between would just get stuck there if I were use the [Music] Press with the bolsters pretty much welded on it was time to take it to the Press draw out the tang and then that's pry pretty much it for the [Music] forging after the Tang I took a couple Heats to finalize the profile on my blade and make sure that everything was straight for this knife I'm actually going straight into the K right out of the forge I didn't even bother to take it to the grinder and profile it a little bit I haven't ground really deep at all but those Forge bus look pretty perfect the cool thing about this blade is that there's actually a set point for the rough grinding the blade is still covered in a fairly thin layer of sheet steel but for the quench I want all of that off I do not want want any mild Steel on the sides mild steel actually acts very different than high carbon steel and the quench the high carbon steel actually gains a small percent of volume and the mild steel just stays the same this makes it so that if the outside is clad in mild steel and the inside is high carbon steel the inside will want to expand past the outside and this can actually crack the entire blade down the center and this has happened to me before it's probably not showing on my face cuz I actually have a pretty decent poker face but I was actually really stressed going into this quench at this point I had put 4 days of work into the blade and if anything cracked in the quench I would have to completely restart and I actually have a deadline for this video so I would have to work at Double speed for the next 5 days o look at that patter I think I may have outdone myself with this one after file testing the blade for hardness I Chuck it into a small toaster oven at around 350° for a quick flash temper the reason that I need a quick flash temper is because the Kil actually takes around 2 hours to cool down and those two hours where the knife is just left sitting outside could be the difference between developing a crack and not directly after heat treat we're at 2 lb thus began the incredibly long process of grinding this blade to its final final shape as you saw before the blade was around 2 lb 2 lb is much too heavy and that means the blade is much too thick the end weight for this knife is around a pound total including the handle the blade actually developed a very minor warp in the quench so what I'm doing here is I'm using a carbide ballpen hammer to straighten it a little bit Michelangelo said every block of stone has a statue inside it and it is the of the sculptor to discover it when knife making the only thing that you can really do is take away material this means I have to be sort of creative when deciding what material to take off my blade can be globally straight but have many ripples throughout the entire blade it is my job to grind the humps of those off and leave a center line that is perfectly straight one thing that can happen when I'm grinding the blade is that it can actually warp there's a lot of internal stresses in the steel and by grinding off material you expose them and let them have their way this means I have to constantly be checking the straightness of the blade and whether there's a cork screw a potato chip a pringle whatever you want to call it I have to be super careful that this blade when it gets straight it stays straight listen to the steel sing because this knife also has an integral bolster I have to be wary of the two planes that connect the bolster to the blade to make my life easier later I'm also going to the transition between the bolster and the tang and I'm cleaning it up as best as I can without a file [Music] guide 66 wide 22 thick where's my 1564 this block of wood cost the same as all of the metal for this combine was $160 if you know a knife maker the best thing to get them for basically any occasion is just a new block of handle material it's basically almost an addiction whenever I see a block of wood on Instagram there's a part of me that's considering buying it all I'm doing here is scribing lines on my handle block so that I something to look at when I'm drilling the holes I don't have a mill yet so this is the best I can do too sick F all right what's the correct drill speed for this I don't have any Second Chances with this material so apparently, 1550 because I don't have a Mill and I'm using regular drill bits I have to be a little bit worry about the drill bits wandering for the first hole it doesn't really matter too much because there isn't much to wander but when I'm drilling the second and third holes adjacent to the first one I have to take super small bites to make sure that it doesn't accidentally wander back into the first [Music] with the handle block drilled and ready to be fit to the Tang it was time to start thinking about the spacer the material that I'm using is a sheet of silicon bronze that I got from blade show Atlanta this year it is honestly a pretty nice material to work with and I have so much of it and it looks so nice so it was a no brainer to use for this build a while ago I read a comment from someone someone saying that oh you have all those big machines but you don't have any blue dyam I've actually put blue dyum into my Amazon cart three or four times I just keep forgetting to actually purchase it so for now I'm just going to stick with good old permanent marker and a loss of a couple brain cells handle's done so it turns out my Tang isn't centered to the bolster so this this is now too small so I need to make a new one I made it sound like it was a lot of work to redo but it only took me around 15 minutes because my Tang is fairly rectangular I have to get this slot to a rectangular shape and that means a lot of file work I was using small round files small diamond files everything in my Arsenal to get this thing fit to the tank I can get this to fit right now all right let's give this thing a whirl the the tiny file guide it's bigger than my head if you're wondering what the file guide does it basically allows me to have a super flat plane that I can grind against the file guide has two tungsten carbide faces that are basically Untouchable with a file or a grinding belt that makes the file guide a really nice hard stop so that I can grind directly against it and nothing further look at that fit up you probably can't tell on the camera but uh that's pretty dang good with the spacer now fit up perfectly to the back of the bolster it was time to turn my attention back to the handle block what I'm doing here is I'm I'm using some sideways pressure on that same drill bit just to combine the three holes that I drilled earlier this is actually kind of dangerous because drill bits aren't really designed to handle that sideways pressure but this is by far the fastest method that I had of combining those holes The Next Step was to use a pair of homemade brooches to sort of rectangularization whoa why why is this going so fast and why am I bleeding if I were to be frank I would have to change my name I wonder what percentage of my viewers would actually laugh at a joke like that this is actually a cool trick that I learned on how to find the the contact spots in the handle block basically I cover the tang in permanent marker and I look for the spots that are rubbed off by the handle block [Music] ah we're contacting on the sides okay to save some time later and possibly some of this handle material I mark off parts that I know that I'm not going to use in the handle and I take them to the Banta and just Lop them off one of the biggest things on my shop bucket list is a really nice shop wide dust collection system as of right now whenever I grind wood or cut it on the band saw I throw wood just everywhere and that actually reaches as far as the entrance of the garage oh yeah usually for my order of operations I don't shape the handle at all until the entire thing is epoxied and attached to the blade permanently this time however I wanted to try something a little bit different I don't actually know if one is better than the other but I would never know until I actually try it the other way I can Flex it with my finger and it's a Cleaver so there's so much material next to it and I can still bend it shows how th it is I think I'm going to finalize the handle shape after I glue it and after I hand sand the blade to hopefully make my life a little bit easier when I go to hand sand the blade I take up the entire thing to a 400 grit machine finish for such a big knife less than a pound is pretty good and this is still going to get smaller handing this blade took about as long as you would expect and then you multiply that time by about four the entire blade was 3 and 1/2 in wide and the blade itself was 8 and 1/2 in Long not to mentioned that the entire blade was around 62 to 63 HRC all right I think I can finally flip it oh this stuff smells terrible but it's so good at what it does while I was handstanding I decided to rewatch some of the YouTube Classics with respects to knifemaking I rewatched Alex Steel's entire chef knife series the one with like 20 million views or something and then I also rewatched Kyle Royer's Mosaic Damascus sword build apart from knife making videos though I actually had enough time to fit in 10 full episodes of Community I think I want to put this on here all right this is sacrilege of the highest order wait I don't have a [Music] knife what is this made of the idea behind attaching this little piece of leather to my hand sanding stick was that the leather was softer than the file itself so it would give a little bit more give to the Sandpaper what was that 9 hours with the entire blade now at 150 grit finish it was time to go to 400 and then 600 grit I'm not going to bore you with too much more hand sanding footage but for 400 grit I went at a diagonal angle as opposed to parallel to the blade and then for 600 grit I went back to parallel to the blade the last thing that I had to take note of was how clean my transition between the blade and the front of the bolster was I mentioned it in my last chef knife video but that transition is so easily overlooked but it just adds a level of debt to the piece that I wouldn't have otherwise okay II there's one more thing I have to take note of and that's the spine on a mosaic Damascus piece like this it's actually really important to have the spine have a high polish because there's actually a really cool pattern that you see on the top and bottom of the blade honestly that's good enough with my Makers Mark now entirely etched into the blade it was time to darken it with some Perma Blue from Birchwood Casey here I'm just cleaning off everything that's not the maker Mark with another piece of 600 gr sandpaper it's important that I don't go too hard or else I'll get rid of the darkening for the glue up I had to make sure that every single surface that I would glue is either cleaned with acetone blown with compressed air or just degreased this is super important because I am not really going to have a mechanical connection for this handle the only thing holding the handle onto the blade is some 24-hour West system epoxy now west system epoxy is ridiculously strong like really freaking strong so I don't really have to worry too much about it but I don't want to give it an excuse to give out say like a decade down the line I made the mistake here of accidentally turning the blade blade side down which means I had some epoxy drip downward and onto the blade I had a little bit more clean up with acetone to do later but it wasn't too big of a deal I let the epoxy sit for a full 24 hours SEC cure I didn't want to touch it early at all after letting the epoxy cure entirely it was time to start shipping the handle my client actually requested that I leave the handle a little thicker than I would otherwise I actually kind of agree because the cleaver is 3 and 1/2 in tall and that means any force exerted on the edge will apply a little bit more torque than say on a 2in wide kitchen knife I kept that in mind as I shaped the entire handle even though the wood that I use for the handle is ridiculously dense and super oily I didn't want to get it wet when I was grinding it so whenever I was grinding the bolster and it heated up a lot I just let it sit on some aluminum blocks so that it could suck out the heat a little bit faster than just letting it sit in still air my handle fating routine is probably a little bit less refined than most other makers I kind of just take down the corners and I play with the angles until I find something that both looks good and feels good because of the way that I shape my handles they kind of look big and blocky until the very last couple of passes on the grinder I have come to be able to see past that and sort of see the final destination of the handle but it's still kind of weird to watch back this footage and wonder what I was thinking when I was shaping it cuz it does kind of look disgusting right now the central facet on the front of my bolsters I wanted to be perpendicular to the spine of the blade itself and in order to reference off the spine I had to take off that temporary sheet that meant that there were a couple times when I was grinding the sandle that I could have just entirely ruined the blade if I slipped and had the blade fall into the grinding belt it it was actually pretty doomed with the handle shaped it was time to fix up a couple imperfections in the wood itself I filled these small blemishes and little cracks with black super glue oops I missed now even though I'm pretty good with the grinder there's still stuff to be cleaned up with a hand file the entire handle is going to be at least a 600 grit finish and the wood maybe even like 1500 grit I think by the time I was done with this blade I had spent 18 hours in that disgusting white chair my back was pretty sore I think my nerd neck got one degree worse it it was just bad my bad what did you even trip on once the entire handle was at a good 600 grit finish I took the 600 grit sandpaper and I broke some of the corners some of the facets were so sharp that they actually hurt to hold in your hand speaking of sharp angles hurting your hand though I made sure that the chil of this Cleaver was very very smooth I broke the corners at a 45° angle and then I rounded the corners of that 45° angle and then once that was done I cleaned up the blade Flats again with six undergr sandpaper so that I could get the entire thing ready for etch I use some regular electrical tape to cover the wood for the etch I don't even know if fer chloride eats into the wood but I didn't want to take any chances here think I'll cut it like right here all right let's pour some the fer in you before the edch I made sure to wash the entire Blade with just regular dish soap I actually did this twice to ensure that there was no oil left on the blade oh my gosh my process for further bringing out this pattern is the same as everybody else that's ever done Damascus I take off all the oxides with a high grit sandpaper in my case 2500 grit and then I rech it I make sure to get all of the surfaces on the bolster as well with everything polished up again it's time to wash it with some more dish soap and then give it another 2 minutes in the fair chloride you'll be able to see that there's a lot more contrast already but this finish isn't the final finish that I'm going to be looking for the thing about the faric Finish is that it actually rubs off that is why I do the coffee etch later the coffee etch leaves a dark black oxide that is actually very durable on the second cycle I use a 5,000 grit sanding pad on top of the 2500 grit sandpaper this is just to give the steel a little bit extra polish that is and that is not enough coffee [Music] oh that's strong [Music] oops remember that accident that I did at the beginning where I turned one of those W's the other way because of that at the center of every one of these pedals it's darker so now there's a gradient in every single flower pedal with the blade entirely etched now it's time to polish the handle and then it's basically finished I'm honestly really proud of myself for managing to finish this entire build within the span of only 9 days this is one of the most complicated pieces that I've ever made it has the most complicated Damascus it has the most comp ated construction I've never done Forge welded bolsters by myself I've only done it under the guidance of Salem stra so I was really proud that I managed to pull that off on my own as well with the handle polished and the coffee etch now permanently set it was time to go over the blade with a little bit of sunshine cloth this wipes off that little bit of brown residue left by the coffee and leaves only Pure White and pure dark colors like all knives that leave my shop I have to give them a razor sharp edge here I'm using a 400 grit atoma Diamond Stone to get that edge to zero and then later I use a 3,00 grit chosera water stone to give it its final Edge and then obviously I followed up with a stop [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] oh yeah make sure to click the link in the description for up to 6 months of EPN service for free

Channel: Jesse Hu

Views: 858,490

Keywords: blacksmith, jesse hu, jesse hu forged in fire, jhublades, Chinese Cleaver, Mosaic Damascus, Damascus, Damascus Forging, Forging, Knifemaking, Making a chef's knife, Blacksmithing, kitchen knife, forging a knife, full build, forged in fire, Luxury kitchenware, artisan knife, luxury, making damascus, knife build, Handmade knives

Id: UGTd1u1k2XY

Length: 48min 33sec (2913 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 26 2023